Idyll Island

Lots of us have thought about it.

Win Lotto, buy an island, turn it into your own personal paradise and leave the day job far, far behind as you stroll through native bush to the trilling sound of bird song. Maybe send the old boss a selfie every now and then.

Given that most of our daydream retirement plans will never be a reality, it’s nice to know that we can live that island idyll even temporarily by visiting Tiritiri Matangi. Located just an hour’s ferry ride from the hustle and bustle of Auckland, this wildlife sanctuary offers the perfect introduction to Aotearoa New Zealand’s flora and fauna - as well as the perfect, calming escape from the big city.

Tiritiri Matangi - ‘tossed by the wind’ in te reo Māori - is just 2.2 kilometres square and is managed by a dedicated group of volunteers with guidance from the Department of Conservation. It is located 30 km north east of Auckland (just to the east of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula) and was first inhabited by several iwi who were attracted by the excellent shark fishing to be found in the waters around the island.

European settlers arrived in the early 19th century and in 1867 the Māori Land Court awarded title to the Crown. Farming also got underway in the 1860s, but the island’s main claim to fame was the lighthouse that was built there in 1864.

Pre-cast in England in half-ton sections, the iron lighthouse was only the third to be built in New Zealand and its goal was to help the increasing number of ships coming into the Waitematā Harbour avoid the rocky shore. Its oil-fired light was first lit on 1 January 1865, and the light was automated in 1925 when it switched to acetylene. Keepers returned in 1947 however and it remained staffed until 1984 when it was again fully automated.

By the 1960s it was the brightest lighthouse in the southern hemisphere, putting out a whopping 11 million candle-power with a range of 58 nautical miles at a time when most lights shone for just 27. This achievement caused much disgruntlement amongst North Shore residents who claimed they were kept awake by the powerful beam. Equally disturbing was the island’s foghorn; according to an occupant on the island in the 1960s, its sound resembled the moan of a ‘sick cow’, and a later version had a tendency to switch itself on and off at random, disturbing the keepers sleep - and testing his sanity. Eventually the Ministry of Works gave him permission to switch it off altogether, but the lighthouse is still going strong and remains the oldest in operation in New Zealand to this day.

The lighthouse is still going strong and remains the oldest in operation in New Zealand to this day.

Most visitors to Tiritiri Matangi come to see the wonders of nature rather than human handiwork however. Farming ceased in 1971 and it was decided to establish the island as a sanctuary by letting the native bush re-establish, but it soon became apparent that this would take decades. Instead, in the early 80s an extensive regeneration programme was initiated, and over the following decades it grew into a large-scale planting project, with boatloads of volunteers replanting 280,000 trees and shrubs, starting first with one of the hardiest species, the pōhutukawa. An onsite nursery was also established and this was soon filled with 30 species of saplings grown from seeds sourced from Tiritiri Matangi and nearby islands.

Next up was a pest eradication scheme (the prime focus being the Polynesian rat) and the translocation of 11 native bird species, including the red-crowned parakeet, the North

Farming ceased in 1971 and it was decided to establish the island as a sanctuary.

Island saddleback, takahē, and the little spotted kiwi. Tuatara and geckos joined this island ark in the 2000s, and today Tiritiri Matangi is recognized globally as an example of community conservation. Around 60% of the island is now covered in regenerating forest, with the remainder left open to provide a mix of habitats, and the island is also an important education and advocacy tool.

And we can all be a part of it. There are regular ferry links to the island, and there are three excellent guided walks to join: these are highly recommended as they offer real insight into the regeneration of the island and the many native bird and plant species to be found there; booking is advised, so start planning your island idyll on Tiritiri Matangi and forget all about Lotto.

Historic photos from Maritime New Zealand files and Marine Department images at Archives New Zealand