TOI'S OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

THE EASTERN BAY’S WHAKATĀNE is known for its cool old-school Kiwi vibe, and Ōhope is equally well known as being home to one of New Zealand’s best-loved beaches. Less well known is Ngā Tapuwae o Toi, the stunning walkway that links the two and makes this destination the ultimate getaway. Views forever, a seemingly endless beach, hidden bays, and great cafés and restaurants – it’s all here in Ōhope and Whakatāne, and Ngā Tapuwae o Toi is the perfect way to experience everything this great little Eastern Bay location has to offer.

Ngā Tapuwae o Toi (The footsteps of Toi) takes its name from the great chieftain Toi who came to the area more than 800 years ago. Toi is recognised as the principle ancestor of numerous iwi now known as Te Tini o Toi - the multitude of Toi – and his main pā site at the highest point of the track is recognised as one of the oldest in the country. That stronghold, Kapu-te-Rangi (the Pā of Gentle Breezes), is a highlight of the Kōhī Point portion of the walkway.

ON THE WHAKATĀNE SIDE, Ngā Tapuwae o Toi winds up from steps found right behind the town’s iconic centrepiece Pōhaturoa, more commonly known as The Rock, a site of great significance for local iwi Ngāti Awa and, since 1920, a dedicated war memorial. The track soon leaves the town behind and climbs through regenerating bush filled with bird song and arrives at Kapu-te-Rangi before following the ridgeline past further pā sites and emerging into scrub and flax. From here the views are truly spectacular: Moutohorā (Whale Island) beckons just offshore, Whakaari (White Island) hovers on the horizon, and the coastline stretches away into the distance. It is stunning on a clear day, but the scenes are also suitably dramatic when the weather is rough and clouds collide with the distant ranges. Regardless of the weather, it’s easy to see why the great Toi chose this place as his home.

Just when you think things can’t get any more stunning, the track continues around the headland and descends into Ōtarawairere Bay. Nestled beneath a pōhutukawa-clad escarpment, the bay has a beach of finely polished shell and sand, endless rock pools to explore, and crashing surf. It’s a spot better suited to paddling than swimming, but the real attraction is the incredible sense of calm and solitude found at Ōtarawairere; the beach is often deserted except for sun, sea and sand, so bring a picnic and stay awhile to soak up the tranquillity. It’s often said that the Eastern Bay is the perfect place to get away from it all, and Ōtarawairere is the proof.

A viewing platform here is the closest you can get to flying without leaving the ground

HEADING TOWARDS ŌHOPE, the track then turns into a reasonably steep climb, but up wellmade steps and the view along the east coast at the top of the next headland is well worth it. A viewing platform here is the closest you can get to flying without leaving the ground, as Ōhope beach stretches away into the distance and the sea and sky seem to merge into one infinite blue. And the good news is that it’s all down hill from here: the home stretch into Ōhope offers some great glimpses of the beach and town through native bush, there is the tantalising promise of a refreshing dip in the water to cool down – or a glass of something and a bite to eat in one of the cafés that are just up the beach. And why not; you’ve earned it.

From here the Beach Hopper bus can take you back over the hill or you can continue on through the Ōhope Scenic Reserve and back to Whakatāne. The views on this stretch of the track are not as stunning as the coastal stretch, but the beauty of this part of the track is in the incredible native bush and birdlife that it winds through. Native trees tower overhead, the calls of birds ring out, and just like at Ōtarawairere you are transported a million miles from the office.

All up Ngā Tapuwae o Toi is just under 16km long, and is accessible to anyone reasonably fit, though dogs are not permitted. The walk from Whakatāne to Ōhope or vice versa is the most popular and takes two to three hours depending on your level of fitness, but that doesn’t include picnic or photo stops. It is also important to note that you have to traverse on to or out of Ōtarawairere Bay at low tide, so make sure you plan your schedule around that. For the really fit, Toi’s Challenge is held in November and sees runners take on the entire course, though you can also join a team and break it into a relay. And for the rest of us, the Challenge also has a category for walkers.