Unreservedly Spectacular

Unreservedly Spectacular

WHEN KIWIS THINK OF THEIR COASTLINE, they usually think of surfing, swimming, BBQs and beach cricket, but there is so much more to the seas around us than that, and you need look no further than the Kāpiti Marine Reserve to see why.

IMPLEMENTED IN 1992, the Kāpiti Marine Reserve was the fourth such marine reserve to be established in New Zealand. While many sections of native forest or mountain areas had long been valued for their recreational, educational, or ecological significance, marine reserves were, largely, out of sight and out of mind. The incredible marine life they harboured was known to divers and scientists, but us landlubbers remained blissfully ignorant. Which is a shame – and something the Kāpiti Marine Reserve aims to change.

If ever there was a case of leave only footprints and take only photographs, then the Kapiti Marine Reserve is it

Two major sea currents converge at Kāpiti: the cold, clear Southland current, and the more turbid and saltier d’Urville current. When they meet, the northern and southern swells result in some unique and fascinating overlaps of marine life, everything from seals and penguins to subtropical fish and sharks. In addition, the Reserve connects the Kāpiti Island Nature Reserve and the Waikanae Estuary Scientific Reserve, thereby creating a very rare continuum of protected land, sea and estuary habitats.

What this means in practice is there is no fishing, either from boat or the shoreline, and no taking of shellfish, seaweed or even shells. The aim is to allow the Reserve to exist untouched by humans, so while littering and polluting are also obviously banned, so too is feeding the fish or other marine life. Swimming, sailing, kayaking and snorkelling are all permitted, but if ever there was a case of leave only footprints and take only photographs, then the Kāpiti Marine Reserve is it.

The area has always been of great significance to Māori, with various iwi occupying the land over the generations. The water surrounding Kāpiti Island was often referred to as “he kapata kai” - the food basket - and Māori used a system of rahui based on tikanga and local knowledge to guide them in taking seafood from these waters. Later, with coming of Europeans, whaling was carried out near the reserve, and the remains of pots for rendering down the blubber can still be seen on the Island.

Today the Marine Reserve covers some 2,200 hectares and is divided into two parts. The Western Reserve, being to the west of the island, is exposed to prevailing winds and swells, with strong currents off the headlands. A reef extends down to 25 metres depth and is dotted with spectacular underwater rock formations, and the water is clear, making for a proliferation of lush seaweed and spectacular jewel anemones. The fish and kina here are also larger and more abundant than on the eastern side, and a local seal colony regularly provides added entertainment for divers. Many of the latter come to see the ‘Hole-in-the-Wall’, a remarkable underwater archway with stunning light and ‘living’ walls covered in all manner of marine life.

There is no fishing, either from boat or the shoreline, and no taking of shellfish, seaweed or even shells.

The Eastern Reserve, by contrast, is more sheltered but still gets strong offshore currents. Its reef is narrower and shallower, and the sea floor is predominantly silt, sand and gravel. Not to be outdone by its western neighbour however, the Eastern Reserve has remarkable beds of rhodoliths, free-living red seaweeds that form coral-like structures that are important habitats for young fish and other sea life.

And it is the abundance and variety of the sea life that makes both parts of the Reserve so special. Huge jellyfish, blue cod, king fish and butterfish abound, as well as colourful subtropical species and the majestic eagle ray, dolphins and orca, right down to the humble and beautiful slug fish (which really needs to be renamed!). Even the professionals have been stunned by the variety here: in 2018 a completely unidentified fish was photographed in the Reserve, and it remains a bit of a mystery even now, with some scientists believing it is a rare moki/terakihi cross, while others are unconvinced. Whatever its origins, it is probably not the last pleasant surprise to be coming from the Kāpiti Marine Reserve.