The Link, Issue 7

Gemtress understands that hair loss is not limited only to adults.

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

ISSUE 7 • 2013 ON THE COVER: 10 14 18 20

Hair Loss in Children Focus on Trich Clients Children With Hair Loss Checking in With Addison

Cover photo courtesy of National Alopecia Areata Foundation

Features: 5

6

9

12 17 22 26 32

Stem Cells: Recent Innovation in Hair Regeneration The Basics of Healthcare Reform: Are you prepared?

Bariatric Bypass and Hair Loss: A Personal Experience Trichotillomania and the Hair Replacement Industry The 28th Annual NAAF Conference Darla Smith: How I Got My Start Choosing Laughter The Secret of the Invisible Knot

In Every Issue: 4 Message from the Board 25 AHLC Academy 30 New and Renewed Members

Subscription Information: Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition.

Non-member subscription price: $60 annually within the continental United States, $85 International.

To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact the AHLC 855.445.9509 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

PAGE 10

The Link Issue 6, 2013  3

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

MESSAGE FROM THE AHLC BOARD by: Peggy Thornhill, AHLC President Reflecting back on the last couple of years leaves us encouraged. The AHLC provides the opportunity for connecting to all the industry. An AHLC membership allows you the opportunity to network with peers and connect with manufacturers, distributors and vendors, some of which you may have had no previous contact. Our annual, members only, conference provides these opportunities. Our membership continues to grow as we prepare for our 2014 conference, at the Hyatt Regency, Pier 66 in Ft. Lauderdale, April 26-28. Your commitment is to your clients and the AHLC is committed to provide you with continued education as well as unbiased information and news in The Link. The AHLC board of directors is working to fulfill our goals of educational opportunities and connections to our hair replacement suppliers.

With each issue of The Link we focus on specific areas of concern in the industry. In this issue our attention is specifically drawn to the children who are affected with hair loss. When we are faced with these issues in our businesses it draws us in with compassion. Our goal is to somehow make it better and the children affected always seem to be more resilient than us. The AHLC hopes you find some answers to help you along the way to resolve whatever the issues may be for your clients. We hope The Link fulfills its purpose of connecting you to your goals through education and awareness. We are always open to editorial content suggestions and contributions. If you’d like to contribute to The Link, or know of a story that should have our attention, contact Janine at thelink@ahlc.org.

Membership Information:

For more information call toll-free 855.445.9509 or visit www.ahlc.org.

For a membership form visit www.ahlc.org or email info@ahlc.org

We’ve got a new toll-free phone number.

Please make a note of it.

855.445.9509 ...just don’t everyone call all-at-once.

The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council.

For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 855.445.9509 or info@ahlc.org

The Link Staff:

Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: e-zign Design Group, www.e-zign.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill

Contributors:

Elvira Amankwa, CMP, New Image Labs, West Palm Beach, FL Risa Balayem, Owner, PR1 Communication, Ann Arbor, MI Joseph Ellis, Raleigh, NC Cassie Gould, Owner, Love and Hair Peace, Philadelphia, PA Myra Irizarry, Director of Government Affairs, Professional Beauty Association, Scottsdale, AZ Kimberly Kennedy, Hattiesburg, MS Susan Lin, MD, Founder/CEO, La Canada Ventures, Inc., San Mateo, CA Bobbi Jo Moman, Wellsville, OH Guillaume Rosa, Laboratoire Nature Inc, Québec, Canada Gary Sherwood, Director of Communications, National Alopecia Areata Foundation, San Rafael, CA Darla Smith, Technical Director, International Hair Goods, Chanhassen, MI Christine Mager Wevik, Author, Beresford, SD

AHLC Board of Directors: Peggy Thornhill, President Marsha Scott, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director René Meier, Board Member Joseph Ellis, Board Member

The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement.

The American Hair Loss Council © 2011. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published by e-zign Design Group. www.e-zign.com

4 The Link Issue 7 2013

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Stem Cells

The Recent Innovation in Hair Regeneration by: Susan Lin, MD, Founder/CEO, La Canada Ventures, Inc.

T

he newest technology in hair regeneration is on the cutting edge of science. It is commonly known that stem cells have the natural potential to regenerate. They are normally dormant in adults, but they can be reactivated through cytokines, which are natural peptides secreted by cells for intercellular communication. Fat cells (adipocytes) contain these multipotent, regenerative stem cells. The growth mediums contained in Stromal Vascular Fractions (SVF), which are obtained through the liposuction of excess adipose tissue, have been studied intensely in basic and clinical research. In addition to fat cells, there are two other tissues rich in stem cells: bone marrow and hair follicles. By taking advantage of the rich stem cells in hair follicles, scientists are now able to induce hair regeneration.

In a published study supported by the Korean Ministry of Education, Science, and Technology, (Won CH. Hair growth-promoting effects of adipose tissue-derived stem cells. J Dermatol Sci (2009)), scientists both injected and topically applied human adult fat stem cell factors to the skin. They reported new hair follicle development in 4 weeks. Similar studies were reported in the American Journal of Cosmetic Surgery (Hirotaro Fukuoka, Hirotaka Suga, Keigo Narita, Rei Watanabe and Satoru Shintani, The Latest Advance in Hair Regeneration Therapy Using Proteins Secreted by Adipose-Derived Stem Cells, American Journal of Cosmetic Surgery Dec 2012, Vol. 29, No. 4 (December 2012)).

The regenerative factors in SVF have been approved by the Personal Care Products Council (formerly known as the CTFA) for use in anti-aging topical cosmetic skin products since 1996.

A 66-year-old female without finasteride medication.

(a) Before treatment. (b) After 1 session of treatment with adipose-derived stem cell protein extract (AAPE). Remarkable hair growth was observed only with 1 session. (c) Hairline before treatment. (d) Hairline after 6 sessions of AAPE treatment. Remarkable hair growth was maintained for 17 months after initial treatment.

(Hirotaro Fukuoka, Hirotaka Suga, Keigo Narita, Rei Watanabe and Satoru Shintani, The Latest Advance in Hair Regeneration Therapy Using Proteins Secreted by Adipose-Derived Stem Cells, American Journal of Cosmetic Surgery Dec 2012, Vol. 29, No. 4 (December 2012)).

However, because the active ingredient is quite unstable, the key to using stem cells successfully lies within stabilizing the active factors at the right concentration and in the proper mixture. The Korean government has been supportive of adipose stem cell factor use, and has closely regulated the production of such factors. An innovation called lysonized factors allows the safe storage and transfer of stable dried factors for cosmetic and hair restoration usage.

For hair restoration, the stem cell product can be applied topically after micro- needling has been performed on the scalp. Micro-needling is a simple procedure similar to mesotherapy.

Mesotherapy is a technique developed in France in which small injections of vitamins and nutrients are put into

the skin for regeneration. For hair restoration, small punctures are made in the scalp tissue, using a small digital device. Then, the factors are applied topically on the scalp. The procedure is surprisingly painless and inexpensive. If it is effective, results should be seen in about one month. The adipose stem cell factors communicate with the stem-cell rich hair follicles, resulting in hair regeneration.

The stem cell factor studies performed thus far, and others that are sure to come in the near future, offer a new solution in the fight against hair loss. With more options available for men and women, we can be hopeful that those affected by hair loss will one day be matched with their individualized and most effective solutions.

5  The Link Issue 7, 2013 

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Basics of Healthcare Reform: Are you prepared? by: Myra Irizarry, PBA Director of Government Affairs

A

s additional phases of the Affordable Care Act (ACA), also known as Obamacare, unfold, more and more employers and individuals are starting to ask the important questions; what do I need to do? And when do I need to do it by?

The ACA is being enacted in phases and will start holding eligible employers and individuals accountable for health insurance in January 2014. Requirements are far from being a blanketpolicy governing all businesses and individual categories the same, so it is important to know where you fit in to ensure you are in compliance with the applicable laws. Be sure to consult your attorney or seek professional advice if you have questions about your obligations.

Small Businesses The U.S. Small Business Administration (SBA) states that over 98 percent of all U.S. businesses are classified as small businesses, having less than 100 employees. The ACA breaks this group down even further and has different requirements for businesses with one to 24 full-time equivalent (FTE) employees, 25 to 49 FTE employees, and those with 50 or more. The IRS provides the acceptable calculation to use when figuring out how many FTE employees you have in any given year. If you have seasonal or part-time workers, be sure to review the IRS website to verify your numbers are correct.

According to Kevin Kuhlman from the National Federation of Independent Business, under the ACA, all salon owners, whether they offer health insurance coverage or not, must provide 6 The Link Issue 7, 2013

employees with information regarding coverage options and the exchanges opening in time for 2014. These exchanges are essentially an insurance marketplace referred to as SHOP (Small Business Health Options Program) where business owners and individuals can compare and purchase insurance plans. Kuhlman states that salon owners who do provide coverage to employees will have extra responsibilities such as the voluntary disclosure of health insurance costs on employees’ W-2 forms, handing out a “Summary of Benefits Coverage” document describing coverage to employees, and distribution of other forms from health insurance companies.

The SHOP marketplace is designed to give small businesses and individuals more buying power by pooling their risks with others. According to the SBA, small businesses currently pay 18 percent more than big businesses, so purchasing insurance through SHOP will make options more affordable. Visit healthcare.gov for more information on SHOP. Whether your salon falls within the under 25, or under 50 FTE employees category, there may be additional ways to customize coverage in the years to come. Kuhlman added that owners may be able to enroll employees in multiple plans or allow employees to choose a plan that best fits their individual needs.

Employer with less than 25 employees Small businesses with less than 50 employees are not required to offer health insurance. However, employers with less than 25 employees who do offer

coverage may qualify for special tax credits to help offset costs. According to the U.S. Small Business Administration (SBA), employers with less than 25 FTE employees with average annual wages of less than $50,000, who pay at least half of the cost of health insurance for their employees, are eligible for a tax credit up to 35 percent to help offset costs. In 2014, this tax credit maximum will increase up to 50 percent and is available to qualified small businesses that participate in obtaining insurance through SHOP.

Employer with 25-49 employees While employers with 25-49 employees aren’t required to offer insurance and do not have the benefit of potential tax credits, they are exempt from the penalties larger companies are faced with if they do not offer coverage to their employees. For this group, the only real change is they will have the option to participate in the SHOP program if they do choose to offer insurance.

According to the ACA, for employers of any size, implementing a “Workplace Wellness Program” makes them potentially eligible for rewards ranging from 20 to 30 percent of the cost of health coverage. If the program is designed to prevent or reduce tobacco use, the reward can potentially reach a maximum of 50 percent.

Businesses with 50 or more FTE employees are subject to different requirements and regulations. For information regarding requirements for larger businesses and rules for the workplace wellness program, visit www.healthcare.gov.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Individuals

coverage and get the benefit of reduced rates. Coverage purchased through SHOP will begin January 1, 2014, but open enrollment for these plans begins October 1, 2013.

Whether you are an independent contractor or an employee of a salon, it is important that everyone understand the requirements for individuals. A recent Kaiser Poll found that 57 percent of Americans polled say they do not have enough information about the ACA to understand how it will affect them. In light of this, now is the perfect time to start educating yourself and your employees to make sure everyone is covered. If you work for a salon with less than 50 employees that doesn’t offer coverage, or are an independent contractor, you will be required to obtain insurance coverage on your own, unless they qualify for an exemption.

Kuhlman noted that individuals earning between $11,500 and $45,000 (100%400% of the Federal Poverty Level) will have access to tax credits and cost-sharing subsidies to help reduce the cost of coverage. These tax credits are helpful because individuals and employers who qualify don’t have to wait until they file taxes to receive the credit. According to healthcare.gov, the tax credit is sent directly to the insurance company and applied to your premium, so you receive this benefit right away.

Individuals will have access to the SHOP marketplace, just as employers do. This will make it easier to compare

Regardless of which category you find yourself in, there is a substantial amount of information that employers

and individuals should know about the Affordable Care Act. Do your homework now to understand the facts, requirements and how it will affect you and your business.

beauty professional

association

Myra Irizarry is the director of government affairs for the Professional Beauty Association (PBA). PBA advocates for the rights of every member and is dedicated to tracking, introducing and responding to legislation at both the state and federal levels with potential to affect the beauty industry. Along with our Government Advocacy program, PBA provides our members with Education, Signature Events, Charitable Outreach, Research and Business Resources. Visit www.probeauty.org for more information.

The Link Issue 7, 2013 7

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Bariatric Bypass and Hair Loss

A Personal Experience

W

by: Kimberly Kennedy, BSN, RN Nephrology Coordinator and Hair Replacement Client

hen I decided at age 35 to have a bariatric procedure for weight loss all I could envision was positive effects like getting healthier, getting skinny and buying new clothes. I chose the procedure commonly called the LAP-BANDÂŽ because it is reversible and controllable.

I embarked on my journey and quickly shed 60 pounds, but that is not all that would began to shed in the coming months. Even though I had attended multiple classes and seminars, I was not prepared for the negative side effects of such rapid weight loss.

Six months after the surgery I began to notice unfavorable changes to my body. As my weight declined so did my nutritional status.

As a result, my body was acting like it was in an anorexic state.

Noticeable changes began to take place . I became hypertensive (elevated blood pressure) and developed headaches.

My skin was dry and flaky. My teeth enamel thinned and I developed cavities. I had a vitamin D deficiency and eventually my hormone levels become unbalanced. My eye brows thinned.

Most significantly my beautiful head of hair began to thin and break off.

Three months after my surgery I began to notice more hair in my combs and shower drain. Daily, I watched with despair as large clumps of hair came off in the shower as I brushed my long, thick hair. Even sleeping on my pillow at night was causing my hair to break and fall out. I sought the care of my

physicians and was told that I should slow my weight loss and eventually the hair would began to regrow. REGROW? What was I to do in the meantime. I was young and had an active life. My hair and perfect skin were what I cherished the most. I could not go bald!

My weight was declining but so was my body image and self confidence. I thought that maybe it would be easier to just stay overweight. I felt like my only option was to cry. So I cried daily.

I lost 100 pounds in six months but felt unhealthier than I ever had in the past. I was taking vitamins and supplements daily as suggested and exercising regularly.

Slowly my body began to normalize but my hair loss was very pronounced.

Finally I decided to discuss options with multiple beauticians. The only recommendations were extension or a hair prosthesis.

My first attempt with extension was single-strand extensions that were twisted and bonded to my natural hair.

Little did I realize that this would make my hair loss more pronounced. The extension would fall out taking all the hair bonded to it. Some areas of my hair were left about an inch long from the roots. Finally I was told I would need to consider purchasing a wig. I was referred to a hair replacement specialist.

A what? There were people that specialized in this area?

I quickly found out that there were and that they were miracle workers. I call this person my hair loss savior, my hair guru, keeper of beautiful hair. She recommended that I remove my singlestrand extension and try extensions more gentle on my natural hair. She told me about vitamins and supplements that would encourage hair repair and re-growth. She educated me on products that were safe for my fragile hair. Most of all she gave me back my appearance.

Thanks to all knowledge I have gained from my hair loss specialist, I now have more natural hair and extension to supplement while my hair continues to return.

My hair growth has increased and I will be able to leave out the extensions in a couple of months. I have also learned a new way to care for and maintain healthy hair. The education and special care received from my new found hair regimen will stick with me for life.

My weight loss journey has not only taught me how to live a healthier lifestyle it has also encouraged me to expect the unexpected and roll with the punches. It is a team effort requiring physician monitoring, nutritional education and a strong positive attitude.

Every day I continue to learn and grow with patience in the world of bariatric surgery. I have restarted my weight loss but now have new confidence and a more positive attitude.

The Link Issue 7, 2013  9

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Hair Loss in Children

Identifying the need and choosing a solution.

by: Guillaume Rosa, President of Laboratoire Nature Incorporated

T

here are many known forms of hair loss in children, and it is important to identify each of them properly to choose the best possible solution.

Trichology offers many treatment options for most types of hair loss. In certain cases, the loss is reversible and temporary; while in others, it may be permanent.

A complete capillary analysis and assessment is essential for all cases of hair loss or capillary issues. It is important to inform both the child and the parents about treatment options and upcoming steps.

Chemotherapy and Cranial Radiation Unfortunately, cancer sometimes affects young children and they are not immune to treatment-related side effects. In young children with cancer who are receiving chemotherapy or cranial radiation therapy, hair loss is often unavoidable.

During treatment, cell division of the hair follicle is interrupted. As treatments are not always localized, the effects can reach the scalp. Hair will fall out two to three weeks later. The loss is different from one child to another and depends on the concentration and duration of the treatments. The body and scalp skin also becomes very dry and sensitive. It is an error to believe that because there is no hair, it is no longer necessary to wash the head. Oncologists and nurses, not knowing what to suggest, often avoid washing the scalp so as not to irritate the skin and scalp of their patients. This is why it is essential to maintain proper hygiene for both the body and the scalp. It is best to use products that do not contain sulfates, fragrances, silicones or other irritants.

Choose hydrating products that have 10 The Link Issue 7, 2013

a balanced pH. Too often, only an aesthetic solution is discussed for the duration of the treatment period, but it is also important to pay attention to the health of the skin and scalp. By maintaining adequate hygiene, it will be possible to keep the scalp hydrated and thereby promote an optimal environment for hair growth once the treatment is complete.

Thirty days after the end of the chemotherapy, it is imperative to apply lotions rich in amino acids and vitamin B6 to support hair regrowth. However, these solutions used during the treatment period would be a complete waste. You may also offer your young clients some post-treatment cosmetic salon services. Hydration care 60 days after the end of the chemotherapy will bring comfort and elasticity to the scalp as well as the significant emotional benefits of a relaxing back bar treatment. These methods, shampoo, lotion and back bar treatment, work synergistically.

disorder (OCD). However, trichotillomania is not a true form of OCD because although it is a compulsive habit, the person derives pleasure from it, which makes it harder to stop.

The majority of people suffering from trichotillomania start pulling out hair during their childhood or adolescence, but there are those who start later, at almost any age. It seems that very young children are more prone to it, yet

Above all, you will need to listen to your clients’ needs and Photo courtesy of National Alopecia Areata Foundation concerns, regardless of their age. Educate them about what is happening and provide constant reas- it is easier for them to stop. Studies surance. This is what will set you apart. have not yet revealed the exact cause of trichotillomania. Frequently, trichotillomania begins after trauma; however, Trichotillomania it can also start without any identifiable Trichotillomania is a compulsive reason. There are numerous psychourge to pull out one’s own hair, and it dynamic interpretations, inasmuch as can result in significant hair loss, either hair is associated with femininity and on the scalp or elsewhere on the body. trichotillomania is much more present Trichotillomania, which is seen most among women. Stress, anxiety or borefrequently among women, is sometimes dom can provoke crises: the subjects considered an obsessive-compulsive are not able to control their urge to pull

The Link The Voice of the AHLC Massage and back bar treatment can be offered to the child to help with hair regrowth, including treatments with vitamin B6, amino acids and proteins.

These will contribute to strengthen the hair and encourage its return to a normal state. However, as long as the emotion or event at the root of the problem is not resolved, reoccurrences may be frequent. In other cases, there may not be any regrowth. Alopecia is not a simple disorder, and an attentive ear and support for both the child and the parents will be beneficial.

hair for certain lengths of time (from several minutes to several hours), when they are in an altered state or a “bubble”, and they do nothing but pull hair. It is very difficult for a person with trichotillomania to come out of a crisis.

There is no real treatment for trichotillomania, but several techniques have been shown to work: psychotherapy, tips for reducing temptation, support groups and some medications. However, we must be aware of side effects as some antidepressants can lead to other hair loss problems. Some comfort treatments can be performed on the child’s scalp to reduce local inflammation. It is always recommended to consult a specialist (dermatologist or psychotherapist), in conjunction with your proposed solution.

Alopecia areata Alopecia areata (localized alopecia) is the name given to a hairless plaque that appears in a zone that normally has hair (scalp, eyebrows, etc.). The round, smooth and flexible plaque forms suddenly and the hair grows back in a varying timeframe. Nowadays, it is thought that alopecia areata has psychological (emotional) origins.

Alopecia areata is a type of

non-scarring alopecia. On a clean scalp, the bald plaques, whether round or oval, are smooth and the same color as the rest of the scalp. This kind of hair loss is an autoimmune reaction. This means that some groups of white blood cells are attacking the hair follicle. There may be more than one plaque at any given time, hair may regrow, and the plaque may reappear sporadically. In most cases, hair regrowth is frequent.

In other, more severe cases, all of the child’s hair may fall out (alopecia totalis).

Capillary issues for which a multitude of options exist can also affect children.

Prevention and education are the best possible tools. There are also solutions for certain types of hair loss. Training in trichology will help you to better recognize and differentiate specific problems. Increased understanding will also allow you to choose appropriate solutions to each disorder and provide answers to your clients’ questions, rather than excuses.

Trichology uses a holistic approach, relying on collaboration among practitioners in the medical, dermatological and even psychological fields. There are many organizations that offer trichology training, which would be an asset for your center and your clients.

Prevention begins sooner than you think!

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Trichotillomania and the Hair Replacement Industry by: Elvira Amankwa, CMP, New Image Labs Corp., Marketing Manager People of all ages, genders, and backgrounds have trichotillomania.

Research indicates that about 1 in 50 people experience trichotillomania in their lifetime. It usually begins in late childhood/early puberty. In childhood, it occurs about equally in boys and girls.

By adulthood, 80 - 90% of reported cases are women.

A real person.

Not just a statistic.

let her condition define her, but who set out to define her condition. What condition? Trichotillomania. Since the age of eight, Emily has suffered from trichotillomania, also known as Trich.

Who has Trich • • • • •

About 1 in 20 people meet criteria for trich About 7 – 10 million people in the USA alone suffer from trich Mostly female; 9:1 ratio in adults (1:1 in children under 11 years) Crosses all racial and socioeconomic levels Other disorders that coincide with trich sometimes include: - Depression - General Anxiety Disorder

What is Trich?

Trichotillomania, or trich in short, is the systematic removal of one’s hair for non-grooming purposes. Hair pulling is not limited to the scalp, but can include eyebrows, eyelashes, pubic area, legs, arms, etc. The disorder is classified, as of May 2013, as an Obsessive CompulEmily Simmons sive Spectrum Disorder (OCSD) and When I was introduced to Emily may be part of a larger class of disorders Simmons, about ten months ago, I was referred to as Body-Focused Repetilooking for a guest blogger for Hairchat- tive Behaviors (BFRB’s). The onset of ter, the New Image blog. I was told that trich can cause considerable disruption Emily is a great writer who has much and distress in all areas of a person’s to share. “Perfect!” I thought. Little life, such as school, work, home and did I know that Emily is so much more social environment. Guilt and shame than a blogger. She is an aspiring model surround this disorder, which is selfand actress as well as a TV personality inflicted and unlike alopecia (an auto featured on MTV. She is also a normal immune disorder) not caused by a fifteen year old juggling school, extradermatological or physical problem. curricular activities, home and a boyOften it is also referred to as a “hidden friend. She’s a great person, sensitive disorder”, as many affected individuals and sensible, well-spoken and funny. In do not want to talk freely about it. Once collaborating with her, I got to know her “public”, they are often told by their as a young woman who always sees the surroundings to “just stop it” and are glass half full, someone who definatley blamed for their behavior, the results vowed not to hide, but to live life to of which can be seen easily with rather the fullest and someone who refuses to obvious hair loss.

12 The Link Issue 7, 2013

Body-Focused Repetitive Behaviors include: • • • • • • •

Skin picking Nail biting Nail picking Cuticle picking Lip biting Cheek biting Knuckle cracking

Why Pulling?

The question remains, why do people really pull their hair? Is it self-mutilation, the result of trauma or of some deeper psychological disturbance? Or is it simply a bad habit which can easily be changed?

With over 15 years experience successfully treating trich patients Dr. Suzanne Mouton-Odum, a licensed psychologist in private practice from Houston, TX, explains: “People pull because it feels good. It feels good in different ways to different people.

Pulling provides sensory satisfaction; tactile, visual, oral for example. It can help to regulate the nervous system”.

She continues, “Pulling often occurs out of a person’s awareness and can be triggered by environmental cues. What many have started as an isolated event becomes associated with a variety of internal or external cues - such as emotions, thoughts, places - and becomes a habit that occurs in many situations.”

Help is available.

There are many treatment options available for trich patients, ranging from cognitive behavioral treatment, medications and supplements to wigs, extensions and other hair replacement solutions. A crucial part in the treatment puzzle is also social and family support.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

What does this mean for hair replacement How YOU can help?

Here are three pointers from hair specialists? replacement specialists to work Many of the most successful hair replacement specialists have two common traits – they are compassionate and they are creative. Compassionate in a sense that they realize that with their services they can add immeasurably to a person’s life by restoring happiness, confidence and self-esteem. Hair is so intricately linked to a person’s physical, mental and emotional well-being that providing someone with a full head of hair is a deeply personal and very gratifying matter. Compassionate hair replacement professionals have learned to connect with their clients on an emotional level. They become part of a client’s support system like a trusted friend. There is an emotional buy-in and commitment. It’s more than ‘just doing hair’. They are vested in the client’s progress and well-being. Creative studio owners and hair replacement specialists are not only creative in their technical skills, but also in their approach of doing business. They realize that more than ever, they need to step out of their comfort zone and find clients in places they might not have looked before through ways they might not have utilized in the past. One by-product of today’s economic climate is that in order to remain successful, we have to be innovative in the way we do business. That does not mean to compromise quality, but to be proactive in how clients are located, acquired and served. With 7–10 million people in the US suffering from trich and all of these individuals needing help with their appearance and hair, the business potential for the hair replacement industry is considerable. It takes only one good connection with a local psychologist or therapist to start tapping into that pool through regular referrals. Compassionate hair replacement service with innovative hair replacement products will then be the catalyst to often lifelong (business) relationships between hair replacement specialists and their trich clients.

successfully with trich clients: 1. Create a safe place for trich clients – both, physically and emotionally 2. Have a private service area and set appointments during special hours that do not coincide with your regular business hours 3. Be supportive and non-judgmental 4. “You are not weird”, “You are not a freak” 5. Normalize the behavior 6. “Many people have this”, “It’s not uncommon at all”

Potential Benefits of Hair Replacement for Trich clients • • • • •

Improves self-esteem Restores confidence Improves social integration Improves overall well-being Prevents access to hair, as it creates a barrier

Possible Limitations of Hair Replacement for Trich clients •

•

• •

Affected clients may pull the hair from the actual hair replacement system Sometimes they lift the hair replacement system off the scalp to gain access to their own hair A young child may not properly care for the replacement hair When the times comes for the hair replacement system to be removed and free access to own hair is restored, the client may begin pulling again

Emily with her mother

Emily continues on with her journey. She allows us to be part of it by sharing her experiences in the New Image blog HairChatter www.hairchatter.com. If you want to get a close-up view of how living with trich really is, check out the New Image Spotlight Series dedicated to trich at www.youtube.com/user/NewImageHair as well as Emily’s MTV appearance in “True Life”. It will help you to better understand how affected individuals feel and show you how to grow your business in a very rewarding way. More scientific research on trich is available from the Trichotillomania Learning Center at www.trich.org. Another valuable resource is www.stoppulling.com.

There is also an iPhone app “PullFree” and a great guidebook is “A Parent Guide to Hair Pulling Disorder”. To contact Dr. Mouton-Odum directly, feel free to call her at 713-914-9944 or visit www.houstonpsychologists.com.

Acknowledgements: The author would like to thank Emily Simmons, Michelle Simmons and Dr. Suzanne Mouton-Odum for their support. Article includes extracts of Dr. MoutonOdum’s presentation “Trichotillomania Demystified”.

Used with permission.

The Link Issue 7, 2013 13

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Focus on Trich Clients A Different Path

by: Cassie Gould, Owner, Love and Hair Peace

S

ince grade school I had always known that I wanted a career in cosmetology. More specifically, fake hair. I experimented with different types of wigs and extensions back before I even knew this was something people could do as a job. I myself have always had very thin, fine hair so I have always felt the need to have hair extensions to make myself feel good.

Upon completion of cosmetology school my search had begun. While most of the other students went seeking assistant positions in high-end salons I was off to find out how I could accomplish a career involving some sort of fake hair. I was unsure if I wanted to take a more theatrical path or a medical path. That is when I found a cosmetic hair restoration studio that was offering an apprenticeship/ assistant position.

A trich client is different than clients who are dealing with other types of hair loss because the progression seems backwards.

My ultimate goal is to eventually have my client no longer need a hairpiece or hair extensions.

The studio I worked in specialized in trichotillomania, which today has become a lot of my focal point. I had a childhood friend with trichotillomania so coming into an environment where we focused on the topic was familiar to me.

After working a number of years for my former mentor, I opened my own studio, Love and Hair Peace, which has now been in business for two and a half years. I tried to create a comfortable and fun environment that had the feeling of being in a regular salon while still containing the privacy of a hair restoration studio. All of my clients are women, and nearly 80% of them are on a journey to conquer trichotillomania.

I have developed close relationships with a large percentage of my clients watching them grow and change and overcome challenges within the battle against trich. A trich client is different than clients who are dealing with other types of hair loss because the progression seems backwards.

My ultimate goal is to eventually have my client no longer need a hairpiece or hair extensions. Usually they start in a larger piece and the system size shrinks in their success and then they graduate to extensions and hopefully, to their restored natural hair, which is the opposite of most hair restoration clients, as you know.

I have had much success with a lot of my clients by helping create an awareness of what can be a sometimes subconscious action. I have learned that giving them a hair system or extensions is more than just making them feel like they look “normal” or “pretty” but it actually helps them to overcome or reduce their desire to pull.

14 The Link Issue 7, 2013

I feel very grateful in my career as my clients truly give to me just as much as I give to them.

The Link Issue 7, 2013  15

Hair loss does not know any age. Children, pre-teens, teens and young adults can be affected. Causes vary from alopecia areata (an auto-immune disease) to trichotillomania (an impulse-control disorder), from Telogen effluvium (hair shedding) to hair loss due to chemo therapy.

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Under an Arch of Triumph

The 28th Annual National Alopecia Areata Foundation Conference, June 27 – 30, 2013

I

by: Gary Sherwood, NAAF Communications Director

s it possible to get chills on a sunny Midwest summer’s morning, with temperatures already scaling 80 degrees before 9 a.m.? It is when you’re watching 450 men, women and children clad in matching orange t-shirts walk in smiling but determined regimentation around one of America’s most aweinspiring landmarks, the Gateway Arch alongside the sparkling Mississippi River, to raise over $42,000 for alopecia areata research. The Tortoise & Hair™ fundraising walk served as the outdoor centerpiece of the 28th Annual National Alopecia Areata Foundation International Conference in St. Louis, Missouri.

The Hyatt Regency St. Louis at the Arch was the site of four event-filled days, attracting over 700 registered attendees from 39 states and 5 foreign nations. Of those attendees, 311 were VIP’s, i.e. those attending their first conference. Among those VIP’s was Denver’s KMGH news anchor Anne Trujillo, who was also our featured guest speaker for Saturday’s General Session. Her moving talk about being a public persona wrestling with alopecia areata – she was only diagnosed a year ago - brought a mixture of laughter and tears.

Also attending a NAAF Conference for the first time was Lisa Vanderpump, star of The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills, along with her Pomeranian pup Giggy, the most famous dog in the world who himself has alopecia areata.

Lisa and Giggy were only able to spend 24 hours with us, but in that time they taped a Public Service Announcement for NAAF, filmed a segment of Great Day St. Louis in which Lisa discussed why alopecia areata is such an important cause, met with surprised and delighted Conference attendees for an impromptu photo session in the hotel foyer, and walked in Saturday morning’s

Tortoise & Hair™. Most memorably, Lisa and Giggy met with both the Kids Camp and Teen Camp, in a grand scale replay of when she met with children from our Southern California support groups last year.

The Conference’s practical workshops included a cosmetic demonstration with live models, and an awareness and advocacy workshop featuring event coordinators from around the country offering their expertise, along with a preview of this September’s Advocacy Day with our new Alopecia Areata Legislative Liaisons. An informative update on the Alopecia Areata Treatment Development Program was provided by Dr. Maria Hordinsky, Chair of the NAAF Scientific Advisory Council. Our esteemed researchers also participated in a one-of-a-kind Q&A session entitled Ask the Experts, enabling attendees to present their questions to a panel of the nation’s premiere alopecia areata investigators.

In addition to the Tortoise & Hair™, a silent auction raised more funds with a stunning variety of sought after merchandise, while a variety of exhibitor displays and marketplace vendors provided the latest alopecia areatarelated products for shoppers to sample and purchase.

For the first time, we introduced a theme to our dessert dance party;

Bringing the ‘70’s Back! In addition to the intoxicating mix of ice cream and disco, there was a costume contest featuring such Me Decade categories as Soul Train, Glam, and Punk. It was a veritable Studio 54 with everyone from John and Yoko to Charlie’s Angels boogying down.

Sunday’s closing session climaxed with prizes handed out for best dancers, best costumes, and most Tortoise & Hair™ pledges. Following a surprise tribute and slideshow for NAAF Chief Administrative Officer Jeanne Rappoport celebrating her 25 years with the organization, closing speaker Ali Lambert Voron, a highly successful voice-over actress, gave a highly original and stirring oration on what alopecia areata has done for her, and she offered this advice: “Feel it, accept it, beat it.”

The 28th Annual NAAF International Conference slipped into St. Louis history, alongside Lewis & Clark, Dred Scott, and the development of jazz.

We’ll see you next year in San Antonio, June 2014!

The Link Issue 7, 2013 17

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Children With Hair Loss

by: Risa Balayem, CWHL Spokesperson

C

hildren With Hair Loss (CWHL) is a well-established non-profit organization that as been providing customized human hair replacements at no cost to children with medically related hair loss nationally for 12 years. CWHL is the only charitable organization of its kind that provides their products completely free of charge, with no hidden fees, financial reporting or required appearances.

Through CWHL, each recipient child receives a free customized human hair replacement & care kit annually until the age of 21. Each complete package can cost up to $5,000, which includes manufacturing, hair care products and more.

Recently, CWHL has enjoyed major successes with the expansion of their services, outreach and fundraising efforts due in large part to their new partnership with TIGI® Hair Care, the maker of Bed Head®, Catwalk®, S-factor™, Rockaholic™, Copyright©olor™, TIGI® Cosmetics and TIGI® Hair Reborn™.

About their new partnership, Andy Rah, Director of Marketing for TIGI Americas, said: “We are in the business of beauty & empowerment, and TIGI has always been a brand that empowers women physically and emotionally. It is with our products, incredibly talented stylists and dedicated professional partners that we are able to make our clients not only look, but feel beautiful every day. It is an honor to take what we know and do, and give back to an incredibly rewarding cause. We 18 The Link Issue 7, 2013

Regina Villemure with CWHL Recipients at the Charity Ball

are humbled to be in partnership with Children With Hair Loss and we look forward to helping renew the self-confidence of the many children in need.”

CWHL operates entirely on revenues generated through fundraising and corporate partners, and with the help of TIGI, aims to bolster awareness and implement philanthropic initiatives in support of the organization and its mission.

“We are so appreciative of TIGI’s commitment to CWHL and to our mission,” said Regina Villemure, Founder of CWHL. “With their support, we are certainly in a position to help more children than ever before and I cannot thank them enough for providing us with that opportunity.”

TIGI, which has thousands of salons in its network, will work hand-in-hand with their partners to host awareness-driving initiatives, donation and

fundraising events, as well as issue marketing materials and advertisements to support CWHL and the partnership.

TIGI has also donated several products that are included in hair-care kits that CWHL sends to its recipients.

At professional hair care and styling conventions this year, you may have seen one of CWHL’s signature booths. TIGI has begun to showcase the partnership at their show booths, which include a customized section for CWHL. During on-stage education seminars, TIGI Educators have provided attendees with an overview of CWHL,

CWHL Recipients at the Charity Ball

The Link The Voice of the AHLC its partnership with TIGI and even a few ponytail-cutting tactics with hair donors.

TIGI will also be a major sponsor of CWHL’s major fundraising event this year, their 9th Annual Charity Ball. The event will be held on Saturday, October 26, 2013 at Laurel Manor in Livonia, Michigan, a suburb of Detroit.

has the capacity to provide free customized human hair replacements to thousands of children annually, with the proper funding for manufacturing costs.

Regina Villemure has been honored by the Paul W. Smith show on WJR Radio in Detroit as one of 12 outstanding “Women Who Lead,” a program designed to recognize women who are positively influencing the community.

“I’ve been fortunate enough through our work at CWHL to be able to experience the most heartwarming feelings of helping children overcome a huge obstacle to their happiness,” said Regina. “At a time when many children need to channel their full energy into healing, the last thing they CWHL/TIGI Booth at America’s Beauty Show should be worried The Charity Ball will be a festive night about is their looks and their hair loss, that will celebrate CWHL’s 2013 donors but it’s a reality. I’ve seen kids go from and recipients, while raising funds to being afraid of being bullied at school assist even more children in 2014. The and having low self-esteem, to gaining evening will be filled with entertainconfidence and completely turning their ment and silent & live auctions, includlives around. When you turn a child ing a special appearance by Kayla Martowards a mirror so they can see their tell, who was diagnosed with Alopecia Areata at age 10 and was crowned Miss Delaware in 2010. The 2013 Charity Ball will also feature a special fashion show featuring CWHL donors and recipient children.

new hair for the first time, you see their smile return and you actually witness life coming back to their eyes. It’s absolutely amazing.”

ABOUT US: Children With Hair Loss (CWHL) is a non-profit 501(c)3 organization that provides annual customized human hair replacements and styling services, at no cost, to children with medicallyrelated hair loss until they reach age 21.

Our goal is to empower as many children as possible, by increasing their self-confidence and renewing their self-esteem, which are often lost with the loss of hair.

We operate entirely on revenues generated from tax-deductible donations, fundraisers and grants.

We are also dedicated to raising awareness of the emotional and psychological effects in children, after hair loss takes place.

CONTACT US: www.childrenwithhairloss.us info@childrenwithhairloss.us 734.379.4400

Tickets for the event are $75 each, and are available by emailing info@ childrenwithhairloss.us or by calling 734.379.4400 or 888.454.3742. Full-table discounts are available. All profits from this event directly benefit Children With Hair Loss.

Sponsorships for CWHL and for the Charity Ball event, including professional hair care and beauty product partnerships and corporate opportunities are available. With its growing national network of partners, CWHL

Regina Villemure with CWHL Ambassador, Mikayla Mercado

The Link Issue 7, 2013 19

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Checking in with Addison

Remember Addison featured in our article titled “Lots of Love?” Here’s an update!

A

by: Bobbi Jo Moman, Addison’s Mother

ddison’s story is just unbelievable. Over 43 percent of her body was burned in a home accident at nine months old. The doctors told me she would never be able have hair. I searched for help everywhere! Every site told me I had to shave her head bald to get a wig and get three other doctors to sign off on it. Then, when Addy was three we found Regina Villemure at Children With Hair Loss!

Regina listened to our story and promised to help my daughter despite the obstacles facing us.

When we arrived in Michigan, Regina had no idea where to start, but she was determined to help me and Addison. From the first moment i spoke to Regina, she heard the frustration in my voice and the anger. She promised that nothing was going to stop her from helping us. The first wig was successful. It covered her bald side and allowed her own hair to be pulled through on the side where she had natural hair. Addy hated it, but continued to wear it. Every wig that CWHL donated to Addy got better. Regina found new ideas with every fitting.

CWHL and Regina gave us hope when we didn’t feel like we had any. We also got to participate in the CWHL Charity Ball which gave Addison a chance to meet other kids who didn’t share the same story but did share in hair loss. They had wigs in common and she could see from the older kids that even though she had to wear a wig she could still be through life and ‘be normal’.

Regina and the people at CWHL are, and will always be, a part of our family.

She gave me something to hope for when no one else even gave my daughter a shot.

One day, while at a doctor’s office a child reacted with fear toward my 20 The Link Issue 7, 2013

Left: Addison, age 3, post-accident.

Below: Addison in 2006, age 5 with her CWHL wig.

Photos supplied by CWHL.

daughter. My heart broke for my beautiful daughter. She had always been comfortable with herself and, for the first time, how other people saw her affected her. I decided then and there to shave my head in solidarity! I searched for a doctor who could help us find a permanent solution.

Then, we found Dr. Epstein!

I begged him to help Addy, even offering to clean his house for him in exchange for taking her on a pro bono basis. Regina, my mother and I traveled to Florida where Dr. Epstein was located. He performed a procedure where he placed a balloon under Addy’s scalp.

Every day the balloon was expanded through a port. After less than a month, Addy was ready for another surgery. He performed three surgeries to stretch her scalp and reconstruct it. My daughter now has 90% hair coverage thanks to Dr. Epstein and the generosity of the

International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery. Dr. Epstein has now put us in contact with other reconstructive surgeons and doctors to help with Addy’s scars. Currently we are eagerly awaiting a response but, we are hopeful that we are well on our way thanks to the help CWHL, Dr. Epstein and everyone else involved!

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Addison Today Dr. Epstein Remembers: Dr. Jeffrey Epstein, MD, FACS

A

ddison came to me at the age of 10, with loss of approximately half of her scalp due to a childhood burn. I performed several scalp reconstructive procedures, for which she and her mom traveled over 1000 miles from the Midwest. Her mom read about my charitable work online, and gave me the wonderful opportunity to change this young girl’s life. The surgery included the placement of a balloon tissue expander that was inflated over an 8 week period, stretching out the normal hairbearing scalp. She subsequently underwent a hair transplant, allowing for more coverage. Every year since then, and it’s been 6 years, her mom sends me updated photos of Addison. She is now doing great, is on the cheerleading team at school, and I’m so happy to see that she has a near full head of hair, no hair pieces.

Addison leads an active life playing basketball and volleyball. She is looking forward to 7th grade this fall and is on the Jr. High Cheerleading team.

“I realize that it is a once lifetime opportunity for a burn victim to receive a hair transplant and I’m thankful.

Sometimes it is still a challenge to style my hair to hide a few bald spots while I wait for it all to grow in.”

The Link Issue 7, 2013 21

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

How I Got My Start in the Hair Replacement Industry

Darla Smith of IHI, In her own words

I

attended Cosmetology School and had a great teacher who taught me a lot about wigs. The owner of the school wore wigs all the time and I always styled her wigs. I knew from that point on, that I wanted to work in the wig business. I worked in a regular hair salon for a year in order to get experience, then went to work for Strafford wigs in Minneapolis. Within four months I was approached by Art Lazere (43 years ago) the President of North Star tape and President of Allen Arthur, to work for them in starting up a hair replacement manufacturing company. That was when New Man Hair Replacement started. I was 20 years old and very fortunate to be given such an opportunity. They sent me to Los Angeles for training and then to a hair replacement factory in Korea for training. (Allen Arthur was the original company of International Hairgoods, a division of Aderans Hairgoods, Inc.)

22 The Link Issue 7, 2013

Besides acting as Technical Director for IHI, I am involved in research and development (R&D), production of products and education as well as manager of the Technical Department. I worked in the retail part of IHI ( DK International) for 10 years, when I was raising my two children.

Michelle Schumm the DK Technician/IHI Educator is my daughter and has been coming to DK/IHI since she was born, so she was born into the business and has followed in her mother’s footsteps. I am a Grandmother of 4 have been married for 45 years. My family is my life, besides IHI/ Aderans. Aderans purchased IHI in 1987 and I stayed with IHI during this purchase. This was very exciting for me to be part of the largest and best hair replacement supplier in the world. Aderans purchasing IHI has opened many more doors for R&D etc.

I have always been behind the scene with IHI, to make sure product quality and delivery are there for our customers. I work directly with IHI’s factories to make sure the quality and productions run smoothly, to deliver a quality product in a timely matter. I am in charge of R&D for IHI, and am responsible for new designs of hair systems and finding new products for IHI and testing them, before release to the studios I manage the IHI Technical department, we support the customer. Service and sales department of IHI, and process all the custom orders, which is 50% of IHI’s business. I love designing custom hair systems for clients with special needs. I love challenges and love giving solutions . I am in charge of education for IHI, and oversee all education that takes place in our Minnesota Development Center or In Studio Education. I love doing education the most!

The Link The Voice of the AHLC I believe anyone that wants to specialize in changing lives, should enter in to the hair replacement field, appearance is everything, starting with hair.

Everyone’s crown and glory is their hair.

If you enter hair replacement, you need education it will be the foundation of your success. There are many opportunities to get educated, check with your manufacturers and the AHLC, they have great education programs. Search products that will fit for your clients, and then work closely with your supplier. You need to build a good relationship and understanding of your needs to serve your clients.

If you have a bad hair day, you have a bad day. You can change that so they have a good hair day, every day. I am motivated and inspired by this industry, by seeing lives changed by the products I have developed and created and by seeing people I have trained in hair replacement change lives. I have seen hair replacement people change from nothing, to very successful hair replacement specialists with successful studios. When you see tears of happiness because you changed person’s life with hair, it is worth it!

I have worked with many different synthetic fibers in my past years and still work with the latest fibers on the market. I have worked with human hair suppliers. The most exciting hair to work with is Cyberhair! I have worked with Cyberhair since it was brought to the USA by Aderans. I have personally done every educational Cyberhair recruitment needed, to get involved in Cyberhair. We can add as little as 2 hairs to one growing or fill a complete head with Cyberhair. Cyberhair is many times imitated but is never duplicated ! I just wish everyone in the hair replacement industry could feel and experience the performance of Cyberhair.

Aderans has done a amazing job with Cyberhair, it is so close to human hair, many people cannot tell the difference. I LOVE CYBERHAIR !

We are seeing many changes in the hair replacement industry today. It is exciting and always changing, you must keep up with the changes, to be successful. You need to learn all options available for Hair Replacement, even if you do not use all the options. EDUCATION IS A MUST!

The Link Issue 7, 2013 23

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NIU LIVE 2013 10/19-21, 2013, Marriott Hotel, West Palm Beach, Florida Don’t miss the industry’s business booster event! NIU LIVE 2013 features a virtual journey through the ultimate client experience. Revolutionary and eye-opening, this featured presentation alone is worth the trip. But there is more. Classes also include cutting-edge technical training, as well as top-notch business and marketing sessions. Join your peers for exciting networking mixers and rub shoulders with some of the top presenters in the hair loss and beauty industry. Discover what’s in you, rekindle the passion, leave empowered, boost your business.

All this happens in New Image’s very own backyard, in West Palm Beach, FL from October 19 to October 21, 2013. For seasoned professionals and newcomers – NIU LIVE 2013 surely has a class for you! For more information and to register call 1-800-359-4247 or visit www.niulive.com International Hair Goods 9/9, 10/7, 11/4, 12/2, Micro Point Solutions 10/21, 12/16, Private Issue 9/10, 9/23, 11/18, Cyberhair 9/16-9/17, Cyberhair Boot Camp All Classes are held at IHI’s training center in Chanhassen, MN. Contact us at 800-328-6182.

Di Biase Hair USA For a listing of scheduled certification classes throughout the U.S. please visit at http://www.dibiasehairusa.com/pages/certification.html or call 248-489-8900.

On-Rite We offer the following hands-on training to increase your staff’s technical skills: 10/6 Dallas, TX Ultratress Hair Extension Certification Class 9/23 Sacramento, CA 10/ 7 Dallas, TX Women’s Medical Hair Loss Certification Class 10/19-22 Ft. Lauderdale, FL Four-day Men’s and Women’s Hair Replacement Includes one day of Women’s Medical Certification Class 10/19-21 Ft. Lauderdale, FL Three-day Hands-on Men’s and Women’s Hair Replacement 10/22 Ft. Lauderdale, FL One-day Women’s Medical Hair Loss Certification Class 11/4 Ft. Lauderdale, FL One-day Ultratress Hair Extension Certification Class, All three application methods Contact 800-327-5555 or www.onritedirect.com.

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Choosing Laughter

Using Appropriate Humor to Cope with Hair Loss by: Christine Mager Wevik, Author

W

ho doesn’t love to laugh (besides Bella of the Twilight series)? It does wonders for the spirit and the heart, it’s great for the abs and it helps show off those adorable dimples (the ones on your face). More importantly, laughter helps relieve stress, boosts the immune system, creates a sense of well-being, relaxes muscles and reduces pain. All that and then some.

Then why isn’t everyone laughing all of the time? I can think of one reason: baldness.

I have alopecia universalis. My hair loss started as patchy baldness (alopecia areata) when I was newly married and 21. It grew back within a few months.

Two years later, it happened again. The hair loss seemed to be cyclical, occurring every couple of years and growing back. Every time my hair fell out, the condition had spread to another part of my body, becoming more profuse.

When it grew back it was thinner. Thus began the downward spiral toward total and permanent hairlessness, which I “achieved” in 1993 at the age of 35. I wasn’t laughing.

In high school, my hair was my trademark. I was the Crystal Gayle of Washington High School, Sioux Falls, SD, class of 1976 (although my hair wasn’t past my butt, like Ms. Gayle’s, nor could I sing. And if I could, it wouldn’t be Country. And she was rich and beautiful. So in essence, I was nothing like Crystal Gayle, except for the hair, which was only marginally similar in that it was long and brown). In a class of 668 students and from a very poor family, I was not a stand-out. My grades were average, I was not involved in any extracurricular activities and I didn’t party, attend dances or go to sporting events.

I wasn’t exceptional. Acquiring this weird disease was such an ironic twist 26 The Link Issue 7, 2013

to my only success in life to that point: growing beautiful hair. So it didn’t just take my hair; it stole my identity.

I obsessed over the condition, wondering if and when I would have hair again when it was gone and worrying about losing it again when it was growing normally. When I wasn’t obsessing, I was spending every spare moment analyzing every single thing I had ever done in my life to deserve, cause or allow this curse. Was it stress? (I was a supervisor at a day care center. Reasonable assumption.) Was it from crash

I liken baldness to being stuck between a rock and a hairy place.

Sometimes it hurts.

Sometimes it tickles.

I don’t know whether to laugh or cry.

So I choose laughter. dieting? (if so, why aren’t more people bald?) Perhaps it was from swearing or thinking bad thoughts (Again, why isn’t everyone bald?). Could it be from too much caffeine or not enough fiber?

Maybe it was from eating the sulfur off of matches when I was a kid. (Before you ask, yes, I did. And it wasn’t bad. A little salty, maybe.)

As is the case with alopecia, there are no pat answers. There are no definitive causes, no known cures, no standard pattern that the disease follows. It’s like a poorly-planned surprise party. Most of the surprises are on the host and none of them are good.

I can almost see your finger on your chin and that cock-eyed, “Waiiiit a minute…” look on your face. I know what you’re thinking: “How does someone struggling with hair loss write a humorous book?” Have you ever laughed at a funeral or cracked a joke at a really inappropriate time? That’s me. I am the queen of ‘Untimely Humor’. In our graceless land, we feel a need to laugh in the midst of misery. We watch awkwardly humorous movies every night, poke fun at our own un-coolness and laugh audaciously after we wipe out on our bikes, even as the gravel-laden blood trickling from our skinned up knees fills our Chucks.

I laughed in spite of myself. Like when my (then) husband asked me to pull the shades because the moonlight bouncing off my head was keeping him awake. Or when I found a greeting card that on the front said, “I can still see you standing on a hill, your hair blowing in the wind…” and inside, “And you, too dignified to run after it…” Or when my sister and I drew hair on my head with permanent markers. Or when I got my rose-colored lip liner and gray eyeliner mixed up while putting makeup on by the dim light of our van’s makeup mirror. (Scared the kids at the basketball game.) I liken baldness to being stuck between a rock and a hairy place; sometimes it hurts and sometimes it tickles and I don’t know whether to laugh or cry. So I choose laughter.

I’m not saying that being bald was easy. Hair was the new “baby blues.” I was jealous of anyone who had it, and I resented when someone – especially someone who had it – told me how “lucky” I was that my hair loss wasn’t anything “serious.” (Whoa. That’s stepping over the line. The fact that it was true didn’t make it any less painful.)

The Link The Voice of the AHLC But recognizing that most people didn’t see that line or understand my plight only served to further inspire me. I always say that I can learn something from everything and everyone I meet; not only how to be, but how not to be.

Along with several of my firm resolutions in life besides “Never Eat Liver or Beans - especially together” and “Never Yawn in a Hog House”, I have adopted two that are very important to me: Never Stop Learning and Never, Ever, Ever Give Up. I referred to those rules several times in the course of writing my book.

Then I noticed something about my book: some of the things I had written were outdated. Not just about some of the progress in research and in the types of wigs and makeup, but my outlook as well. I was stunned at the difference in my feelings about my hair loss. I still missed my hair and hoped for a cure, but I was much less angry. I began to feel as though there was a reason I had put it away

“It’s Only Hair” took two years to write, during which time I interviewed doctors and researched every book, magazine article and internet link I could to learn more about all types of hair loss and their causes and treatments, and used those facts in my book. I also interviewed many alopecians and included many of their stories. I included chapters with practical tips on makeup, hats and dealing with children, as well as chapters on coping, which was the most difficult part but also the most cathartic.

When I was finished with the book, I sent it out to a number of publishers. After a few rejection letters, I got scared. I shoved the manuscript in a drawer and did my best to ignore it for ten years. (I gave up.) Finally, one for a while. day in early 2009, I was doing a chil(…a “while”. Psh. We’d become dren’s sermon at our church about using grandparents and remodeled our home our gifts and not hiding them. Ahem.

– twice.) In any case, the preface for the Um… Talk about feeling convicted. I book was a bleak reminder of what I went straight home and wrote to a had been going through when I’d writpublisher that a woman in our church ten it. And although it wasn’t the uplifthad recommended to me a few months ing, light-hearted theme I wanted to before. They wrote back within a couple convey, I felt it was an important part of weeks, asked to see my manuscript, of the process of coping. So I changed and a few weeks later, we were in the the preface to a cheerful anecdote and process of publication. addressed the change in attitude in a

different part of my book. I honestly believe that my transformation arrived in the box with my wig. The difference between caring and not caring about my baldness came down to finding a hairpiece that I loved.

Over the last 34 years, I tried several types of wigs, but eventually discovered the vacuum wig, which is what I have now (which is not to say that everyone who is traumatized by hair loss must have a vacuum wig to be happy.) For me, feeling physically and emotionally secure was crucial in my journey towards acceptance and happiness, and the vacuum wig offered that. I wanted hair that looked natural, was versatile and easy to care for, and didn’t spin around on my head like The Exorcist in the middle of a romantic rendezvous. I wanted to go to my class reunion and not have everyone stare at my helmet-hair and wonder what in Sam Hill happened to Crystal Gayle. If I don’t want to be hugged by perfect strangers in the frozen food section because I’m mistaken for someone dying of cancer, I should have that choice.

(Although, I must admit, the hugs are nice…)

I finally felt like being bald wasn’t the worst thing that had ever happened to me once I found hair that didn’t look “wiggy”, hair that I could wear all day without counting the seconds until I could rip it off. In fact, losing my hair eventually became one of the things that I would choose to call a gift. It prompted me to write, it made me realize that I am stronger than I want to be and it challenged me to reach out to others. It’s given me a sense of purpose, and that’s what gives me the most fulfillment in life. Finally I can laugh and mean it.

The Link Issue 7, 2013 27

The Link The Voice of the AHLC So when is it time to laugh? How do we know when and how to help someone who is dealing with hair loss? If I could share the two things that helped me the most in my struggles, it would be to follow the lead of those who are dealing with hair loss, and be honest.

Once you have established a relationship of trust and support with a hair loss sufferer, you will know what their comfort level is and when/if they are ready to laugh. You will see the signs, and they will be as clear as my nightstand’s indication that I will someday be a hoarder. If they prefer to try on hairpieces in a private room, speak in a hushed voice when discussing their hair loss, they’re fidgety and avoid direct eye contact, they are not open to humor yet. How do I know? Because that’s how I behaved when I felt self-conscious, mostly due to a wig that I hated. On the other hand, if they’re going “topless” (sans hair) and doing bald-themed stand-up, you’re there. Party on!

I recently met the author of a book that encouraged women to be boldly bald and beautiful. I found myself

deeply in awe of this woman, amazed that she could go out in public without her hair every day and be…well, boldly bald and beautiful. As much as I admired her pluck, I realized that I could not embrace my baldness like she had hers. I like the way I look with hair.

I like not being stared at. It wasn’t until about a year ago that I was even able to remove my hair in public, and I still don’t allow bald pictures of myself. Does that mean I’m not coping? Not in my book. I LOVE LIFE! My level of comfort has changed just as my attitude about hair loss has throughout the years, but I had to be the one to decide what that level is. Humor, like any other stage in the grieving process, can’t be forced like an intervention. Humor is a useful tool but one that can only be wielded by those who need it most.

The “No Hair? Don’t Care!” mantra is catchy and clever, but in reality, if that were true, there would be no need for hair replacement, research, NAAF, books, therapist and countless treatments. The majority of people dealing with hair loss do care. That being said,

we owe it to alopecians to be not only perceptive and accommodating to their needs, but be completely honest. I would rather be told that a wig I’m trying on doesn’t suit me than to find out later, when it’s too late and I’m stuck at a party with an albatross on my head.

Outside the scope of having fun and enjoying the freedom of variety and outrageousness, most alopecians want hair that looks natural and attractive.

Anything less than that is a disservice to the client as well as the hair replacement industry as a whole. So please, just be honest. And in the course of that (sensitive) honesty, you may both find yourselves laughing.

We all have our methods of coping with the unfortunate issues that inevitably get dragged up onto our porch rug.

What works for one may not work for another, but in the end, if we can wake up, put our feet on the floor and get on with the business of living, we are coping. And if we can laugh while stepping over that thing on the rug, then we are all the better for it.

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Please Welcome our New Peg M. Allen Appearances Cosmetic Therapy Salon, VT, NH & NY

Peg is a Certified Cosmetic Therapist, Licensed Cosmetologist and has been the owner of Appearances Cosmetic Therapy Salon for 26 years servicing all hair loss and scalp regeneration in men, women and children. Winner of the following: 1994 – ACS Sunrise Award – Look Good, Feel Better Program 1994 – Vermont Business and Professional Women - Businesswoman of the year 1995 –AHLC - Recipient of the Community Leadership Award 1997 – NCA – Recipient of the Charles Award – Outstanding community leadership and service to the cosmetology profession.

Lucinda Beaty Lucinda’s Hair & Boutique, Cheshire, CT

After winning a year of coaching with a Business Accelerator Program, Lucinda has implemented major changes as well as experienced growth both personally and professionally. Through this program Lucinda created a business plan that has taken her business to another level. It has also developed her skills as a leader and an entrepreneur. After 30 years as a hair replacement specialist, in the same location, she has expanded her staff and her services. For the first time she has hired an administrative assistant. She keeps us organized and on track as well as frees up time for other things. She has expanded her staff of hair replacement specialists as well to better serve the growing client base.

Lucinda has added on to the studio to include a boutique. The boutique carries beautiful jewelry, turbans, hats, post mastectomy and compression garments. In addition to Lucinda, 3 staff members have expanded their skills and have become certified mastectomy fitters to better serve her cancer patients.

Violet Deilke Centre for Hair, Moorhead, MN

Violet has owned and operated Centre for Hair and Wellness for 30 years. For 25 of them, she has been actively involved in hair replacement, working with those undergoing cancer treatment as well as people with alopecia and thinning hair. A native of Roseau, MN, she was honored by the American Cancer Society and Personal Care Products Council with the National Service Award in 2011. She has been a volunteer with Look Good, Feel Better for 20 years. In addition to her professional activities, she is an active member of Moorhead Rotary Club, the Fargo-Moorhead-West Fargo Chamber of Commerce and the American Cancer Society.

30 The Link Issue 7, 2013

Gwen Fields Halcyon Salon, Washington, DC

For more than 25 years, salon owner Gwen Fields has worked at the forefront of hair artistry and restorative hair services. Recognized for her diverse expertise, creativity, and client focus, Gwen’s skills are sought after by hundreds of Washington, D.C. area residents.

In 1999, Gwen opened Halcyon Salon, which is located in Washington’s historic Shaw neighborhood. Over the past decade, the salon has built a reputation for providing exceptional style, color, and trichology services, within a tranquil and friendly environment. Gwen’s approach to her clients is based on each individual’s needs and lifestyle. When speaking of her diverse clientele, Gwen shares, “Every client’s journey is different, and there is no greater satisfaction than seeing the light in the client’s eyes when the mirror reveals the look they hoped to see.” Gwen’s ability to make her clients feel special has helped Halcyon Salon build a community of loyal, long-time clients. Gwen has a passion for staying on the cutting edge of new techniques and products. She is also certified by the International Association of Trichologists, the World Trichology Society, and a member of American Hair Loss Council.

Cassie Gould Love and Hair Peace, Philadelphia, PA

Located in Delaware County, Pennsylvania, just south of center city Philadelphia, Love and Hair Peace is a speciality salon catering to women who are in need of hair restoration or hair repair. We work by appointment only and have done our best to create a comfortable and fun salon environment for our clients. We have experience in all forms of hair loss as well as maintaing a focus of helping those with trichotillomania Roberta Kozel Salon IAOMO, Pittsburgh, PA

Roberta has been hands-on in the hair replacement industry for 24 years and have spent 19 of those years climbing the ranks at Nu/Hart Hair Clinics. The last position she held there was director of the styling division.

In March of 2008, Roberta branched out with a co-worker, Maureen Haley, and opened a full service salon. Since opening, the salon has won several awards for customer service and positive online reviews. Most recently, Salon IAOMO won Best Salon in Pittsburgh, PA for 2013. It has been wonderful learning from some of the best professionals in the hair replacement industry. Roberta states that she would not be where she is today without those professional’s unselfish willingness to guide and mold her.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

and Renewed Members: Connie Niro Capriccio Salon & Wig Boutique, Sarasota, FL

Capriccio Salon has been established in Sarasota, FL for more than 30 years. Connie specializes in helping women who are experiencing thinning hair or complete hair loss so they can feel confident again. Capriccio is a premiere salon for synthetic and human hair wigs, hairpieces and other enhancement options such as extensions. Connie and her staff are dedicated to professional service and personalized attention so clients can look natural, feel comfortable and rediscover their beauty. For more information, see www.bestwigsinsarasota.com Suzanne Quinn Suzanne’s Images Inc, Naples FL

Suzanne studied at the International Hairgoods, Inc., Development Training Center in Minneapolis, MN. She received her certification as a Medical Image Consultant (MIC) from the Medical Image Training Center in Louisville, KY. A Naples resident for 23 years, Suzanne has worked closely with Naples area oncologists, the National Hairdressers Association, major cosmetic firms and the American Cancer Society. Suzanne offers each client a complimentary, professional and discreet consultation. Personal hair needs, color assessment, personal style and custom fitting are discussed during the consultation.

Jürgen Schillo, Saarbrücken/Dudweiler, Germany

The family business was founded in 1949 in Saarbrücken/Dudweiler. Jürgen Schillo (CEO and master hairdresser) took over the family business in 1970. Today he leads the business together with his son Patrick Schillo (managing director and master hairdresser) and his wife Petra Schillo (managing director and master hairdresser) The main office is still located in Saarbrücken/Dudweiler with a team of 19 employees. In 1990 a branch was opened in Mannheim and 1995 in Luxembourg. Besides the classic barber shop, the company has specialized in hair replacement systems and sells them for over 45 years, registered under the trade name SkinLight. All systems are ultra customized. Stock units aren’t sold.

Exclusive and customized products and comprehensive service have made him very popular across Europe, in the USA and Asia.

To become a member or renew contact The AHLC Toll Free: 855.445.9509 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

Maggie Varney Go Green Salon, St. Clair Shores, MI

Go Green is a full service salon that is continually striving to contribute to a healthier environment. From utilizing raw materials with recycled content to the highest quality natural products available.

Renata Marie Vestevich Advanced Hair Solutions, Auburn Hills, MI

Renata’s experience spans 25 years in the cosmetology and hair replacement industry. Vestevich studied nursing and worked for seven years in the medical field before leaving to pursue her dream of creating and operating her own salon. But after ten years as a successful salon owner, she faced a personal struggle when she saw her courageous, beautiful sister-in-law battle leukemia and subsequent hair loss during treatment. Inspired by this, Vestevich decided to further her professional education and traveled extensively throughout the United States to study with leading hair replacement educators in order to provide her clients with the most advanced information and solutions pertaining to hair loss. AHS volunteers for the “Look Good ... Feel Better” program and is proud to be a member of AHLC, as well as various other professional organizations.

American Hairlines HairUWear Sunrise, FL

We are proud to be the world leader and ultimate global source for the highest quality human and synthetic in “alternative hair” accessories, extensions and systems for women and men. Our passion is inspiring our customers to see all the possibilities of alternative hair. Our promise it to continue to bring together the best minds and artistic talent to innovate and create the styles of tomorrow.

Leading Hair Los Angeles, CA

We have 45 years experience in the hair industry, both in Europe and in the Americas. We have designed and branded our own range of ladies wigs, human hair wigs, fiber wigs, top pieces, hair systems, hair pieces, toupees, hand tied wigs, lace front wigs, custom made wigs, custom made hair systems, eyelashes, false eyebrows, and more. We’re always keeping true and honest to our core principals of quality, experience, and fair pricing. We are located in California and have a sister office, “Dimples”, in Manchester, England.

The Link Issue 7, 2013 31

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Secret of the Invisible Knot One of the big giveaways is exposing a front hair line with dark hair. When the dark hair is tied into the unit it creates a dark knot. The dark knot will be visible and it will not look natural. One way is to bleach the knots but it is a bit harder when the unit has a skin front as opposed to a lace hair line. In this example, I will start with an skin unit that has a blond hairline. The blond hair will be much less visible once it is tied into the front hairline and in most cases invisible. As a rule, the lighter blond you choose the more invisible the hair line will be. I tend to choose to use a level 8. The integrity of the hair is stronger than a platinum level of hair.

by: Joseph Ellis

1

: customize the unit with a level eight color in section one. I take one of the plastic mold pieces that comes with the unit and I pin the plastic mold to the canvas block. I then use red liner on the perimeter of the skin unit and attach it to the plastic form just as if it was my client. Now I have a stationary unit that I can work on.

1

2

: I use a color board and then section out a thin section of hair and paint on the color staying just away from the knots.

2a

2b

2c

2d

The point of this is to not to color the knots. Know your color line, you do not want the color to expand down to the knots. These sections should be thin enough to see through them. (Photo 2c) You hold the section at a 90 degree angle from the base and paint on the color.

Make sure to clean off the color board where it touches the base between each section.

3

: For each section you color, rotate the color brush and use the corner to create peaks and valleys towards the base. This will diminished a horizontal line of color and will give a softer result.

4

: Once you have finished all the blond hair, angle the brush again and create more peaks and valleys of color in the front hair line.

3 4a

4b

5

: Allow the color to process. Always take into consideration your color line and know how it deposits color. The color line I have choosen has a great color deposit on blonds. The more experienced you are with your own line the better the result.

5 32  The Link Issue 7, 2013 

6

: The final result with blond knots.

6

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