The Link, Issue 11

DIMPLES USA

DIMPLES

info@dimplesusa.com

www.dimpleshair.com info@dimpleshair.com

tel • 323 651 1900 fax • 323 651 1550 www.dimplesusa.com

UK

tel • 0161 777 9229 fax • 0161 777 9112

remy hair • european hair virgin european hair • eyebrows medical wigs • top pieces french tops • custom made

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

ISSUE 11 • 2014 Features 5 Open Letter to the Industry 19 2015 AHLC Conference Announcement 20 Your Business Bucket List

Business Building Tools

6 7 9 10 14 16 30

Laser Debate Update How Lasers Work The Derm Project The Lure of Going Factory-Direct How to Host an Open House Get Started with Email Marketing 4 Most Common Hair Extension Myths

Pink Pages - Breast Cancer Awareness

21 22 24 26 29

Pink Promo Products Be Significant to Others Secrets of Selling to Women Skin Care During Medical Challenges 12 Ways to Promote Breast Cancer Awareness

In Every Issue

4 5 12 31 33 35

Message from Board AHLC Academy AHLC Academy Tricks of the Trade: The Theory of Hair Color Member Spotlight: Luciano & Marcia Barsanti, MD New Members

Subscription Information: Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition.

Non-member subscription price: $60 annually within the continental United States, $85 International.

To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014  3

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

MESSAGE FROM THE AHLC BOARD

Welcome Laura Cole to The Board!

I’m proud to say that I am a board member for the AHLC. Over the past decade that I have been a member, I have not only benefited from networking with other members but have made long-time friends who I cannot wait to see at our annual conferences. Because of the support and education provided by associated manufacturers, vendors and the AHLC, I was able to complete my Master’s Certification; an accomplishment which has contributed to my salon revenue.

As a professional I feel it is important to stay on top of my game so I can provide the best information, products and technology to my clients. I now have the opportunity to volunteer my time and pass on my knowledge and expertise to other professionals in the industry. I would like to see other professionals succeed and thrive in their business, as well as to provide current and accurate information to their clients. I would like to invite each of you to become more involved in the AHLC. In addition we’d like to hear your ideas about articles that you would like to see covered in The Link. If you would like to contribute an article or share a story, contact Janine at thelink@ahlc.org.

My salon is an AHLC approved, accredited facility. Clients are very impressed with our credibility, which projects a professional image they can trust. As a business owner I encourage you to become an AHLC member and become involved and take your business to a higher level of credibility. Doing so will professionalize your business and potentially bring in more revenue. I can prove this with my business because with credibility and my master certification, my business is now thriving more than ever before.

Membership Information:

For more information call toll-free 855.445.9509 or visit www.ahlc.org.

For a membership form visit www.ahlc.org or email info@ahlc.org

The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 855.445.9509 or info@ahlc.org

The Link Staff:

Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: e-zign Design Group, www.e-zign.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill

Thanks to our Contributors:

Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs, West Palm Beach, FL Richard N. Kaufman, President, Euro Hair Imports, Lauderdale by the Sea, FL Rhonda McCarthy, VP Strategy and Business Development, On Rite Company, Ft. Lauderdale, FL Glenn Michael Milliet, Vice President of Education and Salon Development, Evolve Hair Goods and Services, Metairie, LA Vikki Parman, CEO/Educator, Di Biase Hair Extensions, USA, Farmington Hills, MI Valorie Reavis, Founder, LinkUp Marketing, Long Beach, CA Steve Sleeper, Executive Director, Professional Beauty Association, Scottsdale, AZ James Todd, Hair Extraordinaire, Dimples, Los Angeles, CA Billie J. Wiant, Licensed Esthetician and Professional Make Up Artist, Fantasia Salon, Crystal, MN

AHLC Board of Directors: Peggy Thornhill, President Marsha Scott, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director Joseph Ellis, Board Member Laura Cole, Board Member

We’ve got a new toll-free phone number.

Please make a note of it.

855.445.9509 ...just don’t everyone call all-at-once.

4 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014

The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement.

The American Hair Loss Council © All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published for the AHLC by e-zign Design Group. www.e-zign.com

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Open Letter to the Professional Beauty Industry By: Steve Sleeper, PBA Executive Director

R

ecently, former House Majority Leader, Congressman Eric Cantor’s (R-VA) views regarding occupational licensing were included in The Hill article titled “GOP Leader Takes on Beauty Salon Licenses.” In this article Congressman Cantor and American Enterprise Institute (AEI) President Arthur Brooks, describe the critical barriers licensing places upon an individual’s right to work.

is very aware of attempts by states to deregulate cosmetology licensing over the past few years, while time and time again professionals defend their industry and their license. These views are not only being driven by groups like AEI, but by other well-funded and well organized activist groups and think tanks such as the Institute for Justice, and the Goldwater Institute just to name a few.

“It can take more than 10 times as long for someone to acquire a cosmetology license as opposed to a license to become a medical technician.” Further, at a panel discussion at a conservative American Enterprise Institute conference, Cantor said that he would reach out to governors around the country to reform the licensing system.

Over the last several years, the Professional Beauty Association (PBA) and other local groups have worked tirelessly with licensees, state legislators and regulators to address this very serious issue. However, common factors for the reasons behind deregulation efforts continue to be present; these factors include the inconsistent number of cosmetology hours required to obtain a cosmetology license in one state versus another, excessive education hours overall, inconsistent treatment of license types, and lack of license reciprocity among others.

In the long run, the vast disparity among state licensing requirements will leave our industry vulnerable to legislative attacks and the risk of deregulation. To begin to address a long term solution to this threat, PBA has organized a professional beauty industry working group with representation from key associations and sectors of our industry, including schools, independent salon owners, multi-unit salon owners, state cosmetology boards and other stakeholders. We are crafting a united message of reform by creating a documented and well-researched reform platform for our industry to broadly endorse. The platform will address issues like common education hours for scope of practice, license mobility, health and safety, infection control, national testing, continuing education and other standardized licensing criteria.

In addition, activist groups and elected officials feel there is layer upon layer of regulations and hours within the cosmetology industry that are burdensome, unnecessary, indefensible, and simply do not make sense. For these reasons, elected officials are being encouraged by organizations such as the American Enterprise Institute to remove or reform occupational licensing. In this particular situation,

The need for uniformity across the U.S. can no longer wait. If we do not make common sense practical decisions to unify and reform our licensing structure, then these decisions will be made for us by those outside of our industry looking to remove occupational licensing altogether. No longer can we sit by without the research, data and documentation to support the licensing rationale in our industry.

The article continues to include comments from Arthur Brooks as he compares the 1,500 hours that are required for a cosmetology license in DC to the 135 hours required for a real estate license. Cantor also mentions, “…the problem was that the federal government continues to subsidize the training programs that rely on steep licensing requirements for a profit.”

I share these points with you as an example of how our industry is viewed not only by state legislatures where licensing laws are maintained, but at the federal government level as well. The industry

AHLC Academy Class Listings

MORE ACADEMY LISTINGS CONTINUED ON PAGE 12 Di Biase Hair, Extension Certification For a listing of scheduled certification classes throughout the U.S. please visit www.dibiasehairusa.com/pages/certification.html or call 248-489-8900.

PBA is communicating with the former Majority Leader’s office and AEI to provide information and be part of this discussion.

EVOLVE, Certification Class 9/21-23 Ft. Lauderdale, FL, 10/5-7 Dallas, TX, 10/19-21 New Orleans, LA, 10/26-28 Los Angeles, CA, 11/2-4 Washington DC, 11/9-11 Cincinnati, OH, 11/16-18 San Francisco, CA • The Evolve Certification Class is designed to confidently provide the skill set for successfully offering clients hair enhancement and hair restoration services, using the Evolve Volumizer. The 3-day educational session includes all materials necessary for the class (Evolve Volumizer, all tools, adaptability ring, mannequin and stand). All participants will be certified by Evolve upon completing the class and listed on the Evolve salon locator at www.evolvinghair.com. Graduates will also receive additional online education and marketing support. For more information inquire online or at 866.779.2880

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Laser Debate Update Oh no... Another article about lasers?

O

By: Susan Kettering, AHLC Executive Director

ne of the most informative articles published in the Link was “The Legality of Lasers” in Issue 2 (view online: www.scribd.com/doc/122811718/ The-Link-Issue-2#page=36). In it, there was a lot of good information that made many salon owners selling and marketing laser therapy stop and think.

In many cases, it even changed the language we were using with clients every day. In short, it helped us all become a bit smarter.

One of the main points of the article was the amount of misinformation out there and how we, as salon owners and operators sometimes even perpetuate it.

It was shocking to many in our industry to hear that we cannot claim that a laser (whether it be a salon laser, or an at-home laser hat/helmet/brush/etc), can help a client regrow hair, unless the device is FDA cleared. Note that devices such are lasers for hair growth are “cleared” by the FDA. Medicines and drugs are “approved.”

So by now you’re saying, “So, Why are we hearing this all again?” It’s because our job is to keep our membership and the industry educated and informed.

Also sometimes the rules change and because some things always bear repeating. Just as our parents used to tell us, “it’s for your own good”. You don’t want to be in violation of the law, so, this list of do’s and don’ts when it comes to lasers needs to be updated.

THE GOLDEN RULES FOR LASER THERAPY

www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/ cfdocs/cfPMN/TextResults.cfm?q=OAP

Above: The “infamous Risk Graphic” accompanied the Legalities of Lasers article in The Link, Issue 2.

Note: Today there are many more laser devices on this list than the two represented when this graphic first ran in Winter, 2012.

6 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014

Thou shalt not claim hair growth, hair thickening, or any other “medical change” to the hair unless the device is FDA Cleared.

Some have sold lasers to salon owners and have claimed to have FDA clearance by virtue that the FDA has ok’d laser therapy as a viable solution.

This is absolutely wrong! FDA clearance is and always has been device-specific.

Even If a manufacturer makes several different models of the same laser, each model requires its own FDA clearance.

If you have any doubts about the laser you’re using or selling, simply go to the FDA website and search for the device’s clearance designation called a 510K. If there’s no 510K, they aren’t cleared, and

you’re left to claim “it will make your hair look pretty.”

Thou shalt not sell a device that requires a prescription without a prescription.

Most lasers for hair loss are not “clinical strength” and should not require a prescription. Today there is one device on the market that does require a doctor’s prescription. This device has been marketed for resale in salons.

Most salon owners have no idea that they’re breaking the law every time they sell one of these to a client without a prescription.

If you happen to have an in-salon laser that’s FDA cleared, you too need a prescription for every client you have under the laser. This is usually not a problem, and can be an opportunity to get a relationship started with a local dermatologist for referrals both ways!

If the device you’re selling isn’t FDA cleared, you can’t market it or make claims that relates to any change in the hair. So why exactly are you selling it?

In other laser news, I learned so much at the 2014 AHLC conference from Dr. Hamid. His presentation finally helped the whole LLLT thing click for me. He talked about how the light from lasers creates energy that excites the mitochondria at the cellular level which creates the ATP which in turn helps the cells to heal. What really stuck out for me, was when he talked about the scalp and cells needing to absorb the energy from the light.

The analogy he used was how we get vitamin D from the sun, and how we don’t get it from little bits or bursts of sunlight, but from steady exposure over the greatest amount of area for a sustained time.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

How Laser Therapy Restores Hair Growth Due to an overwhelming positive response to the laser education class from Theradome at the 2014 Annual Conference, we’d like to introduce a series of articles explaining the technicalities of LLLT. Understanding the ability of laser technology to restore healthy hair begins with an understanding of basic cellular metabolism. Some of you may recall from Biology 101, that mitochondria act as the body’s power plant, producing the energy required for basic cellular functions. Naturally occurring chemical stimulation excites mitochondria, which in turn, provide the energy responsible for cellular reproduction and repair.

Insults to our body’s health, whether in the form of medical disorders, genetics or stress, create biochemical imbalances that cause our body’s natural self-preservation instincts to set off a cascade of chemical events intended to preserve health. Unfortunately, due to the fact that hair is not essential to preservation, it becomes relegated to the bottom of the restorative priority list. Nurturing energy is essentially allocated elsewhere, leaving hair follicles with less than adequate resources.

Without fully functional mitochondrial activity, undernourished hair follicles undergo a process called miniaturization that is characterized by weaker, thinner hair growth. This systemic condition is difficult to override with medication.

Fortunately, there is an alternative pathway to cellular simulation that involves light. Photochemistry

is important to human health, just as photosynthesis is critical to plant life.

The body’s production of vitamin D, for example, follows the first law of photochemistry—with adequate sunlight, chromophore cells convert light energy into chemical energy causing a chain of events that stimulate mitochondria and lead to vitamin D production. This well-established photochemical reaction is critical for bone growth and integrity, among other functions.

But not all light can stimulate hair growth. Light from the sun, incandescent bulbs and LEDs is diffuse, meaning photons are emitted without any particular pattern and without specific direction. This lack of organization and concentration does not enable diffuse light to penetrate our skin deeply enough to reach and stimulate hair follicles, which reside 1.5mm—4mm beneath the skin. This explains why LED light, while useful for surface applications such as wrinkle treatment, is not effective in hair restoration.

Laser light is different. Photons are organized in a coherent manner that is concentrated and directional. Red laser light tuned to 670nm is ideally suited for therapeutic procedures. Dating back to the pioneering efforts of Dr. Andre Mester during the1960’s, thousands of studies have concluded that red laser

light penetrates to depths adequate for therapeutic stimulation.

In order to effectively stimulate hair growth with light the following properties are required: 1) the use of red laser light, proven effective for its therapeutic properties; 2) penetration to depths required for follicular stimulation; and 3) the proper dosage, or duration of exposure—it takes 20 minutes of light absorption by chromophores to initiate photochemical reactions that promote mitochondrial excitation.

When all of these properties are applied to laser treatment for hair restoration—red laser light, adequate depth of penetration, and 20 minutes of exposure—laser therapy effectively emulates the same process observed in vitamin D production. Chromophore cells absorb and convert light energy into chemical energy that stimulates mitochondria.

Restored to fully functional activity, mitochondria provide the energy and nourishment hair follicles need for repair and healthy hair production.

Special Thanks to Theradome for providing the content for this series.

The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014 7

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Email: info@prohairlabs.com

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Derm Project How to connect with a local dermotoligist

D

By: Marsha Scott, AHLC Vice President

o you have a relationship with a dermatologist in your area that specializes in hair loss? Do you have a dermatologist who refers clients with hair loss to your clinic?

Dermatologists are usually the first to consult with someone with hair loss.

Unfortunately, these “hair loss experts” are not as informed as they could be on how to educate and help a patient make the correct decision about their hair loss.

Too often the dermatologist has an over simplified and not very effective suggestion of Minoxidil, or Propecia. Certainly both have merit, in some cases, but it’s not a one-size-fits-all problem and there are certainly better solutions for many hair loss sufferers.

will help communicate who we are and what we do. In addition we’d like to create a brochure that physicians can pass on to their patients.

us now have either connections with a local transplant group or doctor, or have some arrangement to offer services on a regular basis.

The AHLC has done similar things in the past. Years ago the medical side of hair loss really didn’t have many good

We need band together again and join our collective forces to get the attention and cooperation of the dermatologists.

We can’t do this all at once, and it won’t be a quick fix solution, but if each of us as members seeks out one or more dermatologists and partners with them to send each other clients/patients for referral, we can help each other immensely.

I have decided to take the initiative to open the doors of communication with local dermatologists. I hired a sales representative who is also a client. She travels to each of the doctors’ offices in the area and connects with their office manager for an introduction and to invites them to an open house at our salon.

At the open house we do a live demo of a top of the head, bonded system.

We will also have models wearing systems that are already customized.

If dermatologists were better informed and given all the information needed to keep them updated it could be very beneficial to the patient/client, and in the end, you and your salon as well.

It’s time for an accredited organization like ours to be recognized by doctors as a leaders in hair replacement. If we create a program for dermatologists that includes a brochure about the American Hair Loss Council that informs them of our goal to educate the public about hair loss.

We can bridge the gap and work with them to inform the potential client/ patient. Doctors need to know that together we can create a more positive plan for hair loss sufferers. The plan would be to contact doctors in your area to introduce them to the AHLC. Ask them if they have an interest in meeting to discuss the latest technology in hair regrowth. Taking a copy of the The Link

things to say about hair replacement.

By involving some of the transplant surgeons, they learned more about our side of the business, and over time, we began to work together. Although I think that both sides benefitted and continue to do so, the real people who saw the most benefit were the public who were suffering from hair loss.

Along the way we have learned that we each have something to offer people with hair loss. Most salons are now multi therapeutic, offering cosmetic hair replacement, laser therapy, trichology products and services and many of

This is a great opportunity for both parties to meet and better understand the necessity to work together to help patients suffering from hair loss. These patients need to be made aware of the variety of treatments available to them.

We are a large and growing organization and it is logical that we take that first step toward educating dermatologists and their patients. It’s time to do so. If you are a member and are interested in this program we’d like your feedback. Your interest will determine if we proceed with the creation of this brochure. Email us: thelink@ahlc.org or call 855-445-9509 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014 9

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Lure of Going Factory-Direct Lessons learned from a bad suit.

W

By: James Todd, Dimples

ith rising costs and the scarcity of quality natural hair, the lure of going factory direct is an ongoing temptation for many hair replacement studios and wig boutiques. My father, Bijan Todd, and I have had many trials and tribulations with factories over the years. Thanks to “The Link” we’re able to share these valuable experiences with you.

For several years, many so called factories from the East have been mass emailing hair studios across USA and Europe. We at Dimples, a UK/USA wholesale-manufacturer of wigs, top pieces, and hair systems, receive many of these mass emails too. At first, when our customers would tell us that they were thinking of going direct with factories in China, we were concerned. We decided to investigate some of these “so called” factories. We wondered, “Could there really be that many factories producing quality out there with such low minimum order quantities?”

My first experience in dealing with factories in the East was back in 2003.

I was backpacking alone around the world for a year. I made friends with a crew of Irish backpackers in Vietnam.

After we left Sapa and Hanoi we decided to get ourselves some designer, custom made suits from Hoi-An. Shortly after arriving we walked through the streets looking for a place to eat. One of the lads, Owen, was talking out loud and he happened to say the word, “suit.”

All of a sudden an old lady wearing a headscarf, cotton overalls, and gloves, grabbed Owen’s wrist. She held his wrist so tightly he couldn’t break free.

She then dragged him through a maze of back alleys. We didn’t know what was going on so we just followed half laughing half scared, while Owen was being taken forcefully by the old lady.

10 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014

Eventually, she knocked on a big rusty, sliding door. To our delight it was a clothing factory. They gave us a stack of GQ magazines and told us to pick any style from the magazine. They also showed us rolls of fabric to choose from. I chose a black, cashmere fabric.

During this time they treated us like royalty. After some negotiating and some “same-same-but-different” jokes with the owner, they agreed to make us custom made suits for one hundred and twenty five dollars each, what a deal!

Two days later we came back to the factory. I remember my suit feeling itchy and one or two sizes too small, especially the trousers. The factory owner shouted at me when I politely complained. Begrudgingly, she altered the waist of my trousers an inch. The fabric didn’t feel like the sample cashmere they showed me. But, I got a deal and a custom made suit. When I returned home I showed my dad who actually happens to be an avid suit wearer, even while gardening. He looked me up and down, shook his head and said, “Please don’t wear that again.”

At Dimples, we may not know much about manufacturing suits, but we have worked with factories from the East for decades. We have experience in producing quality Remy hair and European hair Wigs, Top Pieces and Hair Systems. And, we carry plenty of stock. We’ve been working with the same factory since the late 1960’s. It has taken us years to forge this long-lasting relationship with our factory. However, before Dimples took off, we had many ups and downs with quality control, deliveries and even scams. When working with a factory from a third world country, there is no guarantee or accountability for the money you pay up front for deliveries and for quality control. It takes years of losses, patience, training, support

and face-to-face visits across the world.

Basically, it takes a lot of money, time and risk.

We have spoken to hair replacement studios and wig boutiques that have thought about going factory direct and others who have tried and had disappointing results. We investigated and visited several of these so-called factories that send out mass emails. Many of the “factories” we hear from are not actual factories. They are either agents or workshops. Both of these make websites with many pictures and send out mass emails in English.

So, what’s an Agent?

Agents are the middlemen between you and the workshop. Agents get a percentage of the sales, but the percentage is added on top of the regular cost of the product. The workshops don’t take losses by deducting agent’s fees from their prices. So, you pay slightly more working with an agent and you add another layer of communication. The problem is you may never know you’re working with an agent. Most will say that they are factory representatives when they are actually agents.

What’s a Workshop?

Workshops are exactly what they sound like. This is usually a room with anywhere from 5-100 workers. They assemble wigs, top pieces and hair systems. They may have a few sewing machines for machine backed wigs and they may have some ventilators.

But here’s the issue: everything else is outsourced to other workshops. The hair, the hair processing, the caps, the bases, ventilating of the hand-tied backs of wigs, ventilating of mono top, ventilating of French Tops and more, are all outsourced. So where’s the quality control? When everything is

The Link The Voice of the AHLC outsourced across different provinces throughout the country, the original workshop (your point of contact) is just assembling the final product. Consequently, there is little to no quality control. Every shipment you get will be a gamble. And, if you want to complain, you most likely won’t get any solutions.

Workshops and agents demand payment up front, when the order is placed, or at the latest, before shipment. Even if you do get to return something to be remade you’ll have to wait another two to four months.

However, what if you tried a factory and you got one or two good samples? And, what about the quality control for your future orders?

Sample Room vs.

Production Line

the production line to get the production close to the approved sample. Also, with all the parts of the wig or top piece outsourced to other workshops, quality control will always be a huge risk from one shipment to the next.

What’s a Real Factory Like?

A real factory has thousands of workers. There are dozens of quality control managers for every section in each production line. There’s also a final quality control check before packaging. Any problems will be addressed after production in the final quality control check by some of the highest skilled workers. Real factories deal in such high volumes that their workers get the experience, training and skills from repetitively manu-

site with highly skilled workers, the time difference and language barrier are still a challenge. Also, the products in our industry are highly technical so we must visit our factory several times a year to conduct our own quality control. We also must be in constant contact on many nights into the late hours with our factory. Finally, when we receive shipments we do another quality control check before stocking in our warehouses.

Are there savings by Going Direct?

By going factory direct, initially there may be some slight savings from piece to piece. But, if you take into account the mistakes you, the workshop, or agent makes on samples, production line errors, in the end there will definitely be losses. The time it takes to get a shipment could be the difference between losing and keeping a customer.

Most of all, what’s your time worth?

If you are charging There are sample $100 or $150/hour for rooms and there are a-la-cart cut-ins, color, production lines. The or servicing, etc. is it workshop’s most worth it to get away highly skilled, most from the chair, or to valuable workers get away from the work in the sample marketing or advertisroom. When you are Hand-tying ing for new customers? a mono top working on making a Consequently, when I new item, the product, buy my suits I don’t try through all of its trials and to cut corners and go attempts will go through factory direct to Hoithe sample room. After a An Vietnam. I go to the few tries, and a few months department store and of rejects and remakes, you buy a branded suit that may receive an acceptable Looking through GQ Magazines. comes with a guarantee sample to work with to James Todd (L) and Owen (R) in a Clothing Factory in Vietnam, circa 2003 of workmanship and replicate. And, by now the trust. I can also return most skilled workers in the facturing the same styles and colors. the suit if I have any problems. The lure sample room maybe somewhat familiar Also, delivery dates are more accurate of going factory direct can take years of with your product. The next step is to and consistent. However, real factories investment and losses. But, if working go to the production line. The sample only work with large volumes and with direct with factories is the core comis passed down to the production line established manufacturer/wholesalpetitive value of your business, and you to copy. The production line workers ers. They have strict minimum order have the time and money, then go for are different from the sample room quantities and they have no websites or it. On the other hand, if your time and workers. The production line workers marketing departments. They are just money is focused on your customers have the least experience and they are factories, that’s all they do. They don’t and marketing to new customers, then paid the least. As a result there is often canvas for new customers. They are there are plenty of wholesale/manufaca lot of turnover. Therefore, even after also under government supervision so turers across the USA that are estabapproving a sample, when your shipthey must have safe, sanitary environlished with quality standards, great ment arrives, the delivered products are ments, with no underage workers. Even service, fair pricing and are just a phone most often nothing like the sample you though all production is made on one call away. approved. It can take a long time for The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014 11

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

AHLC Academy Class Listings

MORE ACADEMY LISTINGS CONTINUED ON PAGE 5 Follea, 4C Workshops

9/14-16 Beverly Hills, CA, 10-5-7 Dallas, TX, 11/16-18 Beverly Hills, CA www.follea.com/technical-education-4c-workshops With classes held regularly throughout the year, FOLLEA® 4C Workshops are uniquely designed to allow FOLLEA salon professionals reach the highest level of expertise in handling the supremely natural European hair Next Generation Wigs and Topette® Crown Extensions their clients have chosen. Learn from our experts. The Care, Cut and Color classes were designed by a master stylist in collaboration with a professional scientist/educator to emphasize the specificities of working with top-quality human hair pieces. The final class, Customization explores all the options available and the details about each unique collection. Call 310-821-2860 or email salon@follea.com for information on how to attend.

New Image, Thursdays With Jay New Image hosts free educational webinars every second Thursday at 12.30 pm EST. Thirty minutes of hair inspiration can make a hair day so much better (and profitable). We encourage interested parties to tune in to success and join us for these free webinars. In the convenience of their studio or home, webinar attendees can learn from Jay Benjamin as he shares his vast experience and interviews special industry guests to discuss the latest hair and business trends which will help hair replacement professionals boost their bottom line. Upcoming dates are 10/9, 10/23, 11/6, 11/20, 12/4, 12/18.. Call 1-800-359-4247 for registration details.

On Rite, Regional Academies 11/3 Charlotte, NC Women’s One-Day Medical Hair Loss Certification Hair Academy, Corporate Office, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 10/25-27 Three Day Men’s and Women’s Hair Replacement This three-day certification class offers combined hands-on men’s and women’s hair replacement.

10/25-28 Four Day Men’s, Women’s and Medical Certification This four day class includes three days of hands-on men’s & women’s hair replacement plus a one day medical class.

10/28 One Day certification Medical Hair Loss Class This one day certification medical hair loss cranial prosthetics class covers understanding the medical market, choosing the right augmentation, alterations and customizing. This Gemtress/One-Day certification medical class is a Provider of Continuing Education (CE) registered and approved by the Board of Certification - Accreditation, International (BOC) and the American Board of Certification (ABC).

11/3 One Day Ultratress, UltraStrands and Ultralinks Extensions This one day, hands-on Ultratress instruction class featuring our attachment methods: Ultra II plus & UltraTress II [pre-bonded], UltraLinks [cold fusion], and UltraStrands [heat fusion], Ultra Weft [braided or corn row]. Call 800-327-5555 for registration information.

12 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

How to Host Your Own In-Studio Open House Connecting with and valuing your female clients

By: Rhonda McCarthy, VP Strategy and Business Development, On Rite Company

F

or the past decade or so, our industry has been attracting new female clients in numbers exceeding their new male business. Some continue to struggle how to understand and keep their female clients happy and loyal. Because most women tend to be very loyal by nature – they can be your business’s best friend – or worst enemy. When a woman feels connected and valued, she will patiently work through any problems or issues with you. When she feels neglected or that she is not being heard, she becomes frustrated. And a frustrated woman client can wreak havoc within your business! She can make your stylists miserable and can spread bad reviews online and to friends and family. So, what can you do?

Connect them with your business!

Make your existing female clients feel they are valued and are actually a “partner” with you and your team as it relates to her hair loss. Put them in a comfortable, relaxed and fun atmosphere by hosting an Open House where you will give them information, allow them to share, all while building a relationship. I realize that it might make some of you nervous, the thought of getting a group of your women clients (some of which you receive regular complaints from), might sound like walking through a minefield. However, set up correctly, you’ll be surprised at how well it can work, and how quickly the women will bond with you, your team and each other.

You’ll find that those women who you thought as “unreasonable” will become more willing to work with you through their hair issues and become some of your most loyal customers! Your stylists will see a dramatic decrease in complaints because the women will be educated and understand the benefits and the limitations of hair replacement.

14 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014

Problems and issues will become “conversations” with the focus put on finding a resolution together.

You’ll likely even gain new business from these events as your women clients become more trusting of you and your team – they will begin to bring friends and family members with them.

When planning this event – atmosphere is extremely important as well as having plenty of activities with something always happening. This will help to keep the event from turning into an “airing of grievances”. A successful open house should be educational, fun and focused on your clients. It should be very “hands on”, allowing women to “touch and feel” hair and product.

It’s important that you have “buy in” from all team members, and they should all attend, especially your stylists. At least one person should be “floating” – to keep conversations flowing and positive. Below are some tips to use when planning and executing your Open House.

What should happen at the Open House?

•Provide a “laminated” index size card with the steps to care for their hair.

• Style variations: Demonstrate styles on a model including hair wrapping, curling, blow drying, using curling irons/flat irons etc..

• Technology – benefits and features – talk about and show the different hair textures, base materials, hair quality. Let them see samples and understand the features and benefits of each.

• Overview of all services offered: This is an introduction to your Programs. Remember – you should not be in “sell” mode – but instead – information mode.

• Invitations/Decorations/Snacks should reflect the theme.

• Staff participants (especially stylists) should prepare in advance for their particular segment. Have each stylist take on a specific topic: How to correctly shampoo and condition/How to correctly blow dry/ How to use hot styling tools correctly/What styling products should they use to achieve their desired look and how to do that/How to replace frontal adhesive correctly etc……

• Have “door prizes” planned and one grand prize.

Door prizes may be just fragrant soaps wrapped in colorful netting with a ribbon, or trial sizes of product, fragrant hand lotions etc.. Look to your existing customer base to find “deals” on your grand prize. (Massages, Weekend at a local hotel, makeup sessions, professional photograph etc..)

When is the best time and day to hold an Open House?

An Open House is a great forum to educate your female clients on how to care for their hair. Staff members should determine the goal and theme of their Open House. Some successful themes include: Luau, Makeover, Vegas Night etc.

• Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings (6:30 – 8:30) or Saturday afternoon.

• Plan at least 3 weeks in advance • Plan to hold an Open House every 3 months.

• Invitations/Decorations/Snacks should reflect the theme.

• Product knowledge: Demonstrate product usage (liquid line, adhesives etc..). Allow women to “touch, smell” liquid line. Place a small amount in their palms while talking about the necessity of their using your specific line for their hair.

• If you offer programs for your women clients, invite a variety of program level members as well as new members (you should have a minimum of one satisfied “higher level” member) • Non-program members • Staff members (consultants, stylists, receptionists and manager) should attend.

Who to Invite?

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

How should you invite them?

• Personal invitations work best.

• Have your team invite clients. Possibly even create a contest for the one who has the most shows.

• Create a signup sheet for women who want to attend • Follow the personal invitation with a written invitation that compliments your theme (have all staff members sign each card). This will also help remind them of the date. Hand write and include a personalized note letting them know how much you look forward to seeing them and to let them know that they may win a grand prize.

• Include “Refreshments and Door Prizes” in your invitations

Make it a “regular function” for your women clients. This is something you are doing “just for them”. Remember – women like to talk to other women – and like making “friends”.

Remember – this is about education and relationship building. Teach your ladies how to care for their new hair – hands on. Let them “see” a proper shampoo/conditioning etc….

Introduce your liquids to your ladies.

Maybe include samples of the product.

Day before the Open House: • Reconfirm all appointments • Reconfirm models: Models should understand that other women will be observing their styling session.

• Purchase Food and Refreshments • Flowers – greet each woman with a flower.

• Create a sign-in sheet • Name tags for staff members (if necessary) • Name tags for each of your ladies attending.

• Practice session with staff to review the “flow” of the open house • Start setting up in largest area of your business

Day of the Open House: • Finish setting up food and refreshments • Set up styling rooms and education stations.

• As women start arriving, staff members and clients mingle. Everyone should start building relationships before moving into a different room and beginning the educational seminars.

• Remember: The open house is NOT designed for selling programs. This is an educational seminar.

Sales will happen later.

• Add your own “creative flair”! Each Open House should be unique in some way.

Open House Ideas Have at least one model who will share her appearance prior to getting her new hair – and then “unveil” the end result.

Present each lady a flower upon arrival.

Variation might be that you pin a flower in her hair and put a lei around her neck for the “luau” theme. Refreshments should be placed to encourage flow.

Invite other “image professionals” – such as MAC cosmetics, Clinique, Macys, Bloomingdales etc.. They will send a representative and provide samples and information to your clients.

Look to your client base to see if there is someone who has a talent that you can use to make your open house special. We had a client who was a photographer and had him come in to take photos after a “makeover” by MAC cosmetics.

It is vital that the clients are contacted by phone or in person with a personal invitation – then send a written invitation – have your team place a “reminder” phone call a few days prior to the event and finally, call 24 hours before event to confirm.

Display different technology using nice mannequins.

Create a simple, feminine looking index card detailing proper care and product steps. Have it laminated and give one to each .

Market these events internally.

Hang flyers at checkout and in styling rooms.

Have plenty of styling tools set up on a table in the room that you will be presenting “styling tips”. Stylist should show them how to use all tools (including curling irons, flat irons, blow dryer etc..) You could even have them available to purchase (however, this is not a goal – simply available if they want the item).

Plan to do this event 2 or 3 times per year, and finally… Have Fun!

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Get Started with Email Marketing

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By: Valorie Reavis, LinkUp Marketing, linkupmarketing.com

heap and easy, email marketing is your new best friend when it comes to promoting your business. Wave bye-bye to huge design and printing costs and stop worrying about getting your brochure or leaflet into the hands of a potential client. Instead, say hello to easy-to-use templates and a warm reception from those who opted to be on your mailing list.

But be warned your new best friend can be brutally honest. Unlike a leaflet promotion where you have no idea who has seen it, suddenly you know exactly how many current and prospective clients are ignoring you or worse, actively rejecting you by unsubscribing.

But before you look at the statistics for your recent email campaigns and start thinking no one loves you and that you may as well close up shop, let’s have a little heart-to-heart about your email expectations and talk about some ways to improve your strategy.

Let’s Talk Numbers (Eek!) The biggest battle is getting people to open your email in the first place. There are loads of averages touted by various companies, but the figure tends to hover between 15% and 40% so don’t be too disheartened if at first glance your open rates seem quite low.

So, what sorts of factors affect your open rates? There are loads of variables, but those you can control include: •Email Database Health •Email Frequency •Subject Lines

The Health of your Database A healthy email database isn’t necessarily about the having masses of contacts (although this is nice), but has more to do with the level of engagement you can derive from the list. An 16 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014

engaged audience is one that will open, interact and show interest in the communications from your business.

Sounds like a dream, right?

Well, it’s not impossible. You just need to build your database correctly and be respectful of your contacts’ wants.

• Include only contacts who have asked or agreed to receive emails from your business.

• Be specific about what kinds of emails you plan to send.

• Only send emails that you told contacts about and ask them to opt into any additional email lists. For example, if they signed up for a newsletter and you also want to send them promotions, they should opt into that list separately.

• Include multiple levels of engagement in every email piece. For example, provide a link to a cool video.

• Give them ways to interact with the message and ways to continue the conversation. For example, always include a link to your online booking system so they can act on any offer immediately (or just rebook their usual appointment) and always include links to your social media channels like your Facebook community, etc.

• Include periodic reasons for engagement such as a sweepstakes to keep them looking for your emails.

Email Frequency Directly related to your email database health but worth talking about separately, is email frequency. This is one of the number one ‘boo-boos’ for most businesses. Number One tip – do not bombard clients with emails, or you’ll get them into the habit of automatic deletion or skipping over them.

Many email systems now have features that will automatically filter out emails that your clients don’t find important,

and you could find your numbers slipping even further. Check out Hotmail Sweep for examples.

As a rule of thumb, keep frequency to 8-10 per list and 12 maximum overall per year, with the exception of campaigns with a specific frequency such as a monthly e-newsletter. If you send a lot of promotional emails, though, I’d even caution sending a monthly newsletter. Maybe consider a quarterly newsletter so the volume stays below the obnoxious level.

Compelling Subject Lines Now to the fun stuff – you need to know how to use your subject lines to get interest in your emails. There are some rules of thumb to follow when creating your subject lines: •Don’t sell in your subject line •Be specific about the content •Keep it under 40 characters •Use personalization

These are some basics to consider when writing your subject lines, but if you forget everything else, remember this: Your recipients don’t care about you; they only care about themselves.

So you should be writing subject lines that reflect the individual as much as possible. Easy, huh?

Recent studies have shown that the majority of engagement with emails happens within the first 24 hours, so you have to be pretty persuasive to get that open from them. If you aren’t where you want to be right away, don’t worry – just keep working at nurturing that email database and creating emails your clients are looking for. Remember, these emails are for them, not you.

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2015 AHLC

CONFER

April 25-27, 2015 | The Westi 321 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304 954-467-1111

19

URERS MANUFACTD ORS AND VEN

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in Beach Resort and Spa Register Now and Save $50 Stay at the Westin and Save $100 Rooms Group Rate $189 per night Member Conference Ticket $499 Register Early - Save $50 - $50 Stay at the Westin - Save $100 - $100 Total Savings $150* *THE FINE PRINT: All discounts offered are deducted from your 2015 Conference Ticket price.

Early registration discount offer expires 2/1/15.

Must have room reservation confirmation number for $100 discount for staying at the Westin. Group room rates valid until 4/8/15.

Your Business Bucket List Check this one off!

By: Rick Kaufman, President, Euro Hair Imports Each year, the American Hair Loss Council sponsors and coordinates its annual conference.

Like any hair loss conference, it is no easy task. It is especially challenging because in this conference, competitors display and educate under the same roof, often side by side.

Displaying as a manufacturer definitely has its perks. Where else can we show our goods directly to our target, non-surgical, hair replacement specialists? Last year I displayed next to New Image on my left - where I had a chance to catch up with good friends and their latest trends. And directly to my right I had the pleasure to meet and mingle with John Renau and his staff, a true class act. My intent is not to promote the companies I mention but to convey how we, as competitors, can learn and complement each other .

At the conference I was fortunate enough to have been able to teach a class on wig fitting.

Not surprisingly, many in my class have now become customers because of the confidence and inspiration my class provided. In turn, I have taken my class on the road and have gotten additional customers as a result of this.

Each year attendees come away with something to add to their professional “Bucket List.”

Whether it is learning how to coordinate seminars about hair loss in their local communities or understanding the value of social media and its impact on how one portrays themselves to others, one thing remains clear: We as hair loss professionals and experts must be current in this ever changing world around us. Learning about a new product or an innovative way in which to deliver it, the exchange we experience with others at this conference is a key component that enables us to be collectively at the top of our game.

The value that the AHLC conference provides to both attendees and manufacturers is unparalleled to any other single industry event. Attendees have access to multiple manufacturers and educators. While each company is able to share their specific mission or philosophy, the greater goal is promoting the hair replacement industry. This, in turn, draws a significantly more divergent and populous pool of people who attend the conference.

Continuous growth over the past decade warranted the need for us to reserve a larger venue for next year. Our next conference will be held on April 25-27 at the Westin Hotel on Fort Lauderdale beach. It is a logical choice and a familiar one to those that have attended other industry trade shows, like On Rite’s just this past year. I personally look forward to this new location where we will all have more breathing room and a better arrangement for displays and classes.

This conference truly is a different experience than those of the propriety manufacturers.

By getting together a myriad of talent and to compare and contrast our successes as well as our challenges, we come away with new ways in which to improve ourselves as well as invigorated confidence in what we do best.

BETTY BUGDEN 570-462-1101 OR INFO@AHLC.ORG

Pink Promo Products:

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

In honor of Breast Cancer Awareness, we are offering 10% off all pink hair during the month of October.

Call 248.489.8900 www.DiBiaseHairUSA.com Info@DiBiaseHairUSA.com

Evolve Hair Goods and Services, in support of women recovering from breast cancer , will donate a special hair brush to every woman who orders an Evolve Volumizer in the month of October.

866.779.2880 inquiry@evolvinghair.com www.evolvinghair.com

This October, New Image goes pink!

Order in the month of October and look for pink “Hair for a Cure” bracelets in your shipping box. New Image includes these complimentary bracelets in every shipment to raise breast cancer awareness and support the efforts to find a cure for breast cancer.

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For a free SOMEONE I LOVE HAS BREAST CANCER bracelet send a self addressed stamped envelope to: Breast Cancer Awareness c/o Follea 315 S. Beverly Dr. STE 210 Beverly Hills, CA 90212 One free bracelet per person; each additional bracelet is $1. Checks for additional bracelets should be made payable to Follea Inc.

21 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Be Significant to Others Helping the healing process

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By: Glenn Michael Milliet, VP of Education and Salon Development, Evolve Hair Goods

ur society puts great emphasis on hair; it’s not only about how we look but also about how we feel. During WWII women suspected of collaborating with the enemy would often times have their heads shaved as a mark of shame, a badge of being less than a woman. Hair loss for a woman may result from any number of causes from stress, menopause, thyroid, hormones, cancer and more. Hair loss for women is often times more stressful and more traumatic for women than it is for men.

In fact, men with shaved or bald heads are considered stylish even more virile.

Yet for women being bald is not an option. For most women hair is their most versatile fashion accessory as it goes with every outfit she puts on, from an elegant evening gown to a romantic nightgown. Hair is an integral part of a woman’s self-esteem and self-image and can be the difference between her self-confidence and self-consciousness.

Some women won’t even leave the house for an event if they are unhappy with their hair. Often times her hair is the last thing she checks when leaving home and the first thing she checks when arriving at her destination.

Sarah after

“Hair loss. The thought of losing my hair was as traumatic as hearing that I had cancer”.

Joann P.

“No words of encouragement could convince me that bald was OK. Bald, was no longer me”.

Jean L.

So consider the women experiencing cancer and all of its many side effects, including nausea, stress, depression, fatigue, anxiety and of course hair loss.

The physical, emotional and spiritual toll can be overwhelming. Many women state that when being told that they have cancer their first thought is about losing hair and how quickly will “I get back to being me.”

Hair loss as a side effect of chemotherapy can bring on great depression and for many women the quicker she can regain her hair the quicker she feels the healing process both physically and emotionally.

“I looked in the mirror and saw a stranger, a stranger that the memory of me was inside of and screaming to be let out”.

Mary L Sarah before

22 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014

The Link The Voice of the AHLC Post chemotherapy hair regrowth is a long process. Since the average hair grows at approximately ½ to ¾ inch per month it could take a woman almost six months to regain three inches of hair.

That’s just not enough to feel feminine.

What women want are results and they want results NOW. How quickly a woman can have hair she can shampoo, blow dry, curling iron, flat iron or style has a huge impact on the speed of her emotional healing.

recovery. Although I have been in the salon business as a stylist and owner for 38 years I had not given much concern to the restoration business or the now growing market of hair loss clients. My initial research lead me to an overwhelming amount of information, from clip-in to glue-on options, from wigs to integrated toppers.

Although I so wanted to help my thinning hair and post chemotherapy clients, I found it challenging to decide As a business owner, I have always what would be my best choices for recmaintained a very simple business ommendation. To simplify my process I philosophy, that being, “I am not in a reverted to my old business philosophy business to sell what I want to sell, but and basically asked my clients, “If you could purchase the perfect add on hair Sarah during treatment product what would it look like?” After several weeks of questioning, certain features began to become constant features of desire. First, these women wanted something that could be used as quickly as possible to cover or camouflage their thin are newly re-growing hair situation. Then they wanted something with styling versatility that is lightweight and definitely is as undetectable as possible.

“I got tired of questioning looks.

I just wanted to blend in”.

Tammy R.

to sell what my client wants to buy.”

Prior to 2011, I began noticing that some of my clients were experiencing hair loss as a result of numerous factors; from thyroid, stress, chemotherapy and more. As these women shared their concerns about hair loss and how it was significantly impacting their emotional wellbeing I began to research options that were available to aid in a quick and sustainable emotional

Being undetectable was a big factor.

Obviously the chemotherapy person feels she stands out in a crowd. She knows that everyone knows, due to her outward appearance, that she is dealing with cancer. As a result, these women wanted something that looked natural.

They want to be noticed yet do not want to stand out.

“I was diagnosed with cancer one week before moving from my hometown. Post-chemotherapy and now sporting an add-on hair system I returned three years later for a class reunion. I was concerned that my new hair system would be obvious. However, when I walked in and everyone said, ‘I love your new haircut,’ everything was good”.

Dorothy S. Surprisingly cost was not high on the list of variables. I quickly learned that getting back to “looking like me, or better,” almost did not have a price.

How can one put a price on the emotion of happiness? Many of my post-chemotherapy clients want something that would work now, while their hair underneath was growing back, and that the system being used would do no damage to or restrict their new hair growth.

Over the last four years I have reduced my inventory of options to only those that my clients demand the most and that fill my client’s eager wants.

“As a cancer survivor, athlete and model I always had difficult hair.

Post-chemotherapy my hair really changed. My hair is thin, thin, thin yet my new hair system has given me the texture, density, length, body and color I’ve always wanted”.

Sarah M. For those of you servicing and desiring to service these brave valiant women I can only say, “God bless you and go for it.” Over the last four years hair restoration has become a significant part of my financial growth yet it holds no comparison to the emotional growth these women have provided to me with their tears of joy when they look in the mirror post hair restoration services.

“My hair system has restored my self-confidence and self-esteem.

I’m happy again”.

Paula D. Remember, “Being successful is what you do for you, however being significant is what you do for others”. Glenn Michael Milliet.

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Secrets of Selling to Women

Would you buy from you?

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By: Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs

oughly 51% of the US population is female. With the increase in female spending power, selling to women is a hot button.

WOMEN ARE DIFFERENT

The popular book, “Men are from Mars Women are from Venus,” popularized the fact that we know that men and women are wired differently.

Consider the way each: Thinks– HE is transactional. SHE is relational.

Communicates – HE wants facts and figures. SHE wants the complete story.

Shops – HE looks for a magic pill. SHE searches for a solution.

SHE shops to explore.

Buys – HE buys where it is convenient. SHE buys where SHE feels a sense of connectivity.

Knowing and understanding these differences has a major impact on the sales process and can make or break the deal when selling to women. The better a sales person can genuinely associate with the psychological and emotional needs of women, the more successful the sales person will be. This applies in particular to our industry when we are dealing with a subject matter as deeply personal as hair. Anyone who has been in this kind of business for any length of time knows that much sensitivity is needed when working with women experiencing hair loss.

IDENTITY CRISIS Hair is very closely linked to female gender identity. Thinning hair and hair loss often results in an identity crisis. Many women share that they feel “like a freak.” They don’t know who they are because they are losing or have lost a crucial part of themselves, their hair. They often battle the fear of uncertainty and rejection. Relationships, casual, close and intimate, can become major stressors.

Often comments about thinning hair or hair loss dropped in casual relationships can be hurtful.

In close relationships, questions like, “Will my husband still love me now that I have to wear a hair system,” and “What do my children think of me now that I am losing my hair?” can cause distress. When it comes to dating and intimate relationships, a whole plethora of questions and concerns arise. The 24 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014

HAIR LOSS IN WOMEN

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, 40 percent of women have visible hair loss by the age of 40. As many as five percent of women under age 30 are affected and as many as 60 percent of those older than 70 suffer from hair loss. Hair loss in women is a very real problem. The secret suffering and sense of shame that often goes hand in hand when a woman loses her crowning glory also is very real. Special sensitivities are involved when the hair loss is connected to medical conditions, such as alopecia areata (an autoimmune disorder) or trichotillomania (a neuro-biological disorder). The same applies when hair loss is caused by cancer treatments and their side effects. In the case of chemotherapy, hair loss is temporary and the natural hair will eventually grow back once the treatment is finalized.

With all the external factors that women deal with when confronted with hair loss, she is now also engulfed by a torrent of internal problems. Here are examples of a woman’s internal dialogue, courtesy of Thea Chassin, founder of the non-profit organization “Bald Girls Do Lunch”: “Everyone is staring at me” “Everyone must know it is fake” (If she is wearing a hair system) “I feel unattractive” “Everyone else has perfect hair” “I am worthless as a woman because I don’t have hair”

causes of her hair loss are compounded by this identity crisis. It is no wonder that her self-confidence often takes a nose-dive and her self-esteem suffers.

WHAT’S NEXT?

Understand that the woman in the chair in front of you has gone through emotional turmoil, if not trauma and that she is a person who is experiencing a loss whether her hair is thinning or gone. It’s important to build trust and to remember that when working with women it’s not about the transaction, but about the relationship before, during and after the sale.

BEFORE Make sure your consultation area is private and conducive to women • Be prepared to spend quality time during a consultation.

• Have realistic expectations.

• Be patient

• Don’t comment negatively about the hair system she is currently using or competitor’s products

DURING

Ask the right questions and consider her preferences as far as • Education about the product • Decision-making • Lifestyle • Budget

AFTER

Continue building the relationship by following up and staying connected.

• Be prepared to work with her to resolve problems after she has become a client.

• Be as enthusiastic as you were before the sale Become an expert guide at helping her to cope with hair loss by providing the hair loss solution that is best for her.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

HELPING WOMEN WITH HAIR LOSS We have now gone from selling to women with hair loss to helping women with hair loss. So selling to women with hair loss is all about helping women with hair loss. What a journey. Invest the time and energy to truly understand her and it will be an investment worth your while. When you help a woman with hair loss, the selling happens automatically. The most successful sales person in this arena is the one who connects best with women experiencing hair loss. That’s why in our industry; we use the term consultant (advisor, counselor, expert, mentor, guide). So what is the “secret to selling to women?”

Be the best consultant you can be.

Your clients will appreciate it. Sales are bound to follow.

One more thing, from experience we know that a female with a hair loss problem is much more likely to buy from another female than from a man. No matter how good the male consultant is, he is still a HE and SHE is looking for that connection from woman to woman, that understanding and emotional spark that only a woman can provide. This is especially true in the case of medical clients. Generally, where hair is concerned, female consultants are simply the better closers. Once gain - SHE got it.

T The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014 25

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Skin Care During Medical Challenges

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By: Billie J. Wiant, M.S., L.E.

here is no doubt when we look good, we feel better.

But more importantly, taking care of one’s skin while going through medical challenges should be near the top of the self-care priority list. Most clients never anticipate the side effects to the skin from medical treatment. As professionals in the beauty industry, this gives us another opportunity to help these individuals during a difficult time. Skin, which comprises the integumentary system, is our largest bodily organ. One of its many duties is to serve as the first line of defense in protecting the body from infection. When skin becomes very dry due to medications, chemo or radiation treatments, or another condition compromising the immune system, it can develop microscopic tears that are not visible to the eye.

However, these tiny tears can alter one’s line of defense to infection, as well as cause irritation and discomfort.

In addition to keeping skin hydrated and protected on the outside by using serums, moisturizers and creams, drinking plenty of water to hydrate skin from the inside is equally important. Both avenues are essential to maintain healthy skin. Keeping the “water channels” between the skin cells lubricated and communicating is what prevents TEWL. Furthermore, sunscreen is a must to protect the already sensitized skin. Choose a sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays. UVA exposure is what contributes to aging, and UVB rays cause sunburn. Many estheticians recommend wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with, at least, an SPF of 30.

The most frequent side effect of cancer treatment is dry, inflamed or sensitized skin. The best products to use are those that are soothing, calming and hydrating. When caring for skin while going through cancer treatment, sometimes less is more. This philosophy can be applicable to the number of products applied to the skin, as well as the list of ingredients in the skincare product. Recommend clients look for products that will hydrate and protect, as well as those that are non-irritating.

A gentle, non-foaming cleanser is the first place to begin. Foaming cleansers can strip important lipids from the skin, both at the surface and below. Protecting the barrier function of the skin is vital

There are other options that can also be chosen to help maintain and heal compromised skin. For example, avoid using products that contain alpha hydroxy acids or harsh physical exfoliants. If exfoliation is needed while undergoing medical treatment, clients can use a soft, dampened face cloth to lightly and gently buff the skin once or twice a week. As we age, skin cell turnover slows and without exfoliating, skin can appear dull, ashy and flat. It’s a good reminder to tell clients they “are not scrubbing the kitchen floor,” so go easy! Over exfoliation, whether it is via mechanical or chemical method, brings on added risk for damaging the already sensitized skin.

Likewise, skin services that need to be avoided during chemo or radiation treatment include extractions of blemishes and waxing for hair removal. Shaving may also pose an added risk. If one tends to “pick” at blemishes or scabs, it’s even more important to avoid this behavior.

Clients should consult with

26 The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014

to preventing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). When the skin’s barrier is devoid of the proper cellular water level, the lipid to water ratio, it becomes compromised or weakened. This intercellular water loss creates an environment leading to sensitivity, redness and inflammation.

When skin is inflamed and irritated it becomes more fragile. This is why protection through serums and moisturizers is vitally important. Even if skin was on the oily side before beginning treatment, it may be necessary to select a more emollient moisturizer during this time. Locking in moisture with topical products helps prevent TEWL.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC their medical team to discuss how these options could impact their risk.

If radiation is included in the client’s treatment protocol, there are additional skin issues to be considered. If a skin reaction develops, it may include redness, darkening, peeling and feeling hot or actual burns. With any of these symptoms, soothing options need to be chosen. Calming the skin with cool, damp cloths or compresses can be used at the site of irritation. Clients need to be careful to avoid extreme temperature changes and, by all means, avoid massaging the area.

One product to soothe radiation site sensitivity is the Lindi Skin Cooler Roll. This unique product is an aloe and water dressing that can be applied directly to the affected area.

Other products to consider would be those in a simple aloe solution, or contain anti-inflammatory or analgesic ingredients that are not in a steroidal or alcohol based formulation.

The use of essential oils (EO) has gained great popularity in recent years. Lavender EO is a popular choice for burns, but again, the client should consult with their medical team to confirm its safety for their diagnosis and treatment plan. As beauty professionals, we must be extremely careful to not “prescribe or diagnose” any medical condition. If a medical doctor is affiliated with your business, solicit their expertise to best help and give advice to immunecompromised clients.

If clients are in the habit of having regular manicures and pedicures, their doctor may instruct them to completely avoid these services for a given time period. When it is safe to resume having a manicure or pedicure, clients need to select a salon that adheres to pushing back the cuticle, not

cutting or trimming. Again, preventing infection has to be uppermost in an ongoing treatment plan. Nail technicians can be educated on safe practices with nail services for medically challenged clients. Needless to say, spot-on sanitation protocols must be uppermost in staff efforts.

When it comes to skincare, invest in the proper products to achieve the desired results whether it is for the face or body. Establishing and maintaining a good skin care regimen will pay dividends, both during treatment and for many years to come.

Billie J. Wiant is a licensed esthetician and professional makeup artist living in Minneapolis, MN. She has a master’s degree in Community Health Promotion from West Virginia University School of Medicine and is affiliated with Fantasia Salon serving clients throughout Minnesota.

Recommendations referenced in this article are for informational purposes only and do not guarantee results or replace medical direction. Consult with a medical professional for specific instruction.

B R E A S T C A N C E R AWA R E N E S S M O N T H This October, join us in our fight to beat breast cancer.

Show your support this October with every $400 order of Gemtress Wigs or Ultratress Hair Extensions, mix and match, Receive FREE: • • •

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12 Creative Ways to Promote Breast Cancer Awareness in Your Salon Submitted By: New Image Labs, Inc. Showing your support for charitable organizations and important causes are great ways to become involved in your community and grow your business. October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, a chance to show your support for a cure and introduce new prospects to your studio.

1

Show your clients and guests that you care about finding a cure by decorating your entire studio with pink accents.

2

Have fresh pink flowers at the reception desk throughout the month.

3

Ask your stylists and technicians to wear pink during the month of October.

Take a company photograph that can be displayed on your website and in your studio with a message to show your support year-round.

4

U se pink brushes, hair dryers, curling irons, towels and other accents throughout the month!

Pass out pink breast cancer bracelets and pins to your staff and wear them.

5

6 7 8 9

If you serve refreshments, make them pink..pink lemonade, pink candies...

Create a special Breast Cancer Awareness Month promotion in your studio, such as discounts on select products or 15% off hair systems or service for the month.

Donate a portion of sales in October to breast cancer research.

Keep a pink donation box at the front desk.

10

O ffer your female clients a special pink extension to wear for the month of October to raise awareness.

11

T urn your website and social media pages pink and post content about fundraisers in your local area as well as pictures of your pink studio and staff throughout the month

12

rite a press release about all of your Breast Cancer Awareness Month efforts W and distribute it to your local media contacts. Ask if they will feature your studio as an outstanding and supportive business.

The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014 29

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

4 Most Common Hair Extension Myths Revealed!

By: Vikki Parman, CEO/Educator, Di Biase Hair USA

Hair Extensions Are Expensive For years, clients have believed the myth that hair extensions are too pricey and that only celebrities and the wealthy can afford this luxury. Truth is hair extensions have evolved and become more economical than most people believe. Years ago, it was true that hair extensions were expensive.

Hairstylists used to charge $3,000 to $8,000 for a full head of hair extensions.

Hair extensions are now becoming much more common, so the options and prices for hair extension services have dropped. There are more stylists that want to learn how to apply hair extensions and there are more professional hair extensions to choose from.

The price for salon hair extensions has been drastically reduced because of the popularity and the budding client race.

Currently, a partial head to a full head of hair extensions may only cost a client from $500 to $2000, which is much more affordable for clients on a budget.

The Application is Too Time Consuming

Instead of having your clients pay for a full head extension service all up front, you can add to the volume, length or highlights over several installations. It is important to remember that as hair extensionists, we are providing a valuable service. Work and communicate with your clients. Find out if they will need a full head of extensions or if they will only need the application on the sides or top of the head. Hair extensionists can perform a one-half head application and only charge for that half hair extension application. That way, you will also keep them as a happy client by having them return on a regular update basis for your services. Plus, this reduces the 30  The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014 

sticker shock for the clients when they realize that the payment does not have to be in one lump sum.

Double Drawn is Better than Single Drawn Hair extensions are sold by grams and by weight. So, when a hairstylist uses single drawn hair extensions, the client will not be paying as much because there are shorter hairs in the single drawn hair. Your costs can be cut by purchasing the single drawn hair extensions. Single drawn hair extensions are better to wear, easier to blend and they will give the hair proper weight distribution. This type of hair is better for the follicle and is healthier because of its lightweight. Clients will not pay as much as they would with the double drawn extensions, which has a premium cost. The double drawn hair reduces the volume, due to the fact that it is all one length and it is a heavier hair. Double drawn hair extensions may also damage natural hair due to the weight. Single drawn hair is healthier, because of the weight distribution.

Lighter hair is what you want in the application process.

Esthetically, clients will like the feel of the heavier double drawn hair and think that it looks beautiful. Just by touching their hair, they may not understand what good hair is and what bad hair is. If it feels good right after installation, this does not necessarily mean that it is good hair. They may not understand the science behind it, how the hair is collected and if it is processed correctly. When I teach a class, I educate my hair extensionists to understand what they are buying and how to best use it on each of their clients.

Anyone Can Wear Tape-in Extensions A temporary hair extension application is a quick process. For the sticker hair or any tape-in hair, it only takes about an hour for installation plus the time it takes to cut and style their hair.

This tape-in hair extensions are just as expensive. However, the big benefit is that it can be reused two to three times.

The entire application process is fast.

Since it does not take very long, you will not need to charge as much money for this service. The tape-in method is not for everyone. People with fine and fragile hair should not wear the tape-in hair extensions. They are a bit heavier and may apply too much pressure to the follicle, resulting in breaks or damage.

Only celebrities wear extentions.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Tricks of The Trade:

The Theory of Hair Color By: Joseph Ellis, AHLC Board Member Hair color has always been a true passion of mine. The OCD part of me made it a mission to understand what happens to the hair when color is applied.

Dealing with the color of a unit and matching it to the clients growing hair can be difficult if you don’t understand the basics. So, lets go back and refresh up on the basic principles of hair color.

Lets start with the primary colors: Blue, yellow and red.

Secondary colors are created by mixing equal parts of two primary colors: Yellow + Red = Orange Red + Blue = Violet Blue + Yellow = Green Neutralizing color: Violet + Yellow = Neutral Red + Green = Neutral Blue + Orange = Neutral Now lets talk about levels of lift.

(1-10 with 1 being the darkest). Remember the underline pigment is not the outer virgin color. For instance, a natural level 5 (medium brown) is a red/orange under the cuticle so plan accordingly. If you want to take that level 5 to an 8 (medium blond) then look at each level between the 5 and the 8 and make your formula neutralize or intensify all the levels between to

get your desired results. The best way to lighten hair color is to find out what the missing primary color is in your formulation and add it. For example, if you are lifting up to a yellow (level 9) then ask yourself what primary color is missing. We already have yellow, so red and blue are the missing primaries. We would not add red and blue to our mix to get level 9 but when we add red and blue together then that gives us violet.

Violet is our missing link and will neutralize the yellow. This is a great trick to get great results.

Hair color as it is seen, is actually a reflection of light of the pigment of color in the shaft of the hair. The “reflection of light” is what we see as “color”. The actual tone of color is made up of the different combinations of reflections of light off of the colored pigments. This is why hair color looks different under fluorescent lights than sunlight.

Color placement when ordering custom hair systems.

Most of processed hair we deal with is colored with material dye and tends to not react the same to hair color. If it is processed hair and I need to add some highlights, I have had some success with using professional bleach, double 40, and a little gold accent toner.

The gold seams to help get that sandy blond color but the results are very undependable with the material dyes. I prefer to create high lights with custom orders. When using processed hair, design the area high lights with markings on the mold. Be creative, I tend to draw peaks and valleys for the base color with high lights. This works well for tone on tone as well, it gives nice dimensional shading.

If you have personal color questions, email me at jqe1@mac.com and we’ll keep the conversation going.

The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014 31

Tap into a brand new client base that brings you a monthly maintenance visit Become an Evolve Certified Stylist — Upcoming certification classes: Dallas, TX

October 5-7

Washington DC

November 2-4

New Orleans, LA

October 19-21

Cincinnati, OH

November 9-11

Los Angeles, CA

October 26-28

San Francisco, CA

November 16-18

To register call 866.779.2880 or go to evolvinghair.com for more information

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

In our Member Spotlight MD Luciano Barsanti & MD Marcia Barsanti, Instituto do Cabelo, Sao Paulo, Brazil

W

ith a medical integrative concept approach, seeking the well being of the patients, soul and body wise, Instituto do Cabelo (Hair Institute), located in Sao Paulo, Brazil began it’s medical activities in hair recovery twenty years ago.

Owned and operated by Trichologists MD Luciano Barsanti and MD Marcia Barsanti, their practice, at the very beginning would treat about ten patients a day. Today, they see more than three thousand patients a month with the help of a large team of assistants; currently eighty eight. Instituto do Cabelo is now considered one of the largest and more important hair recovery centers in the world.

Our clinic owes it’s success to it non invasive techniques: No implants, extensions or wigs. The treatment developed

by MD Luciano Barsanti is based on genetics, phytotherapy and cutting edge technology; and has achieved great results in hair recovery with no side effects. Since the beginning of the medical activities, managing Doctors Luciano Barsanti and Marcia Barsanti have always prioritized a cooperative relationship with hairdressers and beauty professionals for best results. This is one of the reasons why being a member of the American Hair Loss Council has been so important to us, because of the work done by the organization on this field.

The two decades of constant improvements in hair recovery have given birth to the book “Doutor Cabelo”(Hair Doctor), a best seller in Brazil where Barsanti emphasizes the importance of a cooperative relationship between Trichologists and beauty professionals.

We deeply believe that hair grows from the soul of the human being, and health and balance of the body and mind are fundamental for best results in hair recovery.

VIGOR is BETTER

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Welcome Our New Members!

MaryAnne DiDomizio MaryAnne Studio Wayne, PA

MaryAnne, founder and formerly of the MaryAnne Christopher SalonSpa, now offers her services in a new setting at MaryAnne Studios, located at Salon d’ Artiste. Dedicated exclusively to the care of men and women experiencing hair loss, MaryAnne holds the certification of Certified Hair Restoration Professional. She has also been recognized and certified by the American Cancer Society and the Governor’s Office of the State of Pennsylvania.

Stacey M. Handel Garde Bien SpaSalon, Inc. Knoxville, TN

Stacey’s career started in Iowa and has exceeded 35 years which included teaching Pivot Point methods. In Dallas, Stacey presented Image workshops for Fortune 500 companies and provided image services focused on wardrobe for body types, hair styles and makeup for complete image in her salon. Stacey was introduced to services benefiting hair loss thru the Look Good Feel Better organization in Dallas. After relocating to East Tennessee, Stacey opened Garde Bien SpaSalon offering makeover and spa services. Stacey was featured daily on the Fashion Stage at the Women Today Expo for over 8 years and over 100 of Stacey’s makeovers have been publicized in The News Sentinel and local TV programs. She was a regular contributor on WBIR-TV “The Style Show”. For years her salon hosted Komen event “Cuts for the Cure” and Stacey lead dozens of volunteers annually for Women’s Wellness Retreat sponsored by Thompson Cancer Center. Providing hair extensions for some hair loss solutions was limiting. She is a certified stylist and educator for Evolve Hair Systems. Her business relocated to provide private suites where she and her staff now offer many solutions: Wigs, hairpieces, extensions and the Evolve integrated system. “Our business has exploded and is more rewarding then I ever thought it could be”.

If you’re a new member and would like to share a bit about yourself and your business here, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101.

Natalie Ferris Austin Wig and Hair Works Austin, TX

As a licensed cosmetologist, for 10 years, Natalie caters to women with various types of hair loss.

Her number one goal in helping women is to always offer solutions that do not cause any further hair loss or damage as well as to educate clients about the importance of keeping a healthy scalp. She educates clients on their different options and informs them of the pros and cons so that together they can find the right solution. Before a client leaves the salon we make sure and educate them on best practices in wearing and caring for their new wig so they get the most wearable use. Natalie’s salon accepts wig donations and safely disinfects and steams them according to Texas regulations before they are donated to the next person. For Natalie, success is knowing that she helps give her clients confidence so that they can continue to live, work and play with some sense of normalcy as they fight their battle with cancer or just goes about their life. If they feel better they heal better, and Natalie wants to help them heal.

Amnon Zakay Raz International San Diego, CA

Since founding Raz International, Inc. in 1982 Amnon Zakay has combined his professionalism, passion, knowledge and artistic skills to give countless happy clients across San Diego their confidence back.

Amnon is a licensed barber in California. As a hair addition wearer he views hair restoration as not only his profession but as an artistic endeavor that enables him to help people restore their confidence and beauty. Amnon is constantly striving to refine his techniques, so he can continue delight his clients with the most effective and natural solutions for their thinning hair and hair loss. Raz International specializes in women’s hair restoration and beautification. With years of industry experience to his name, and throughout his years of helping women and men restore their hair, Amnon has developed a unique concept to fight hair loss and help women rebuild their look. We do not “sell hair”. Amnon will create a stylish new look that meets each client’s needs so they can say goodbye to the frustration and embarrassment of thin hair.

To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to AHLC.org.

The Link Issue 11, Fall 2014 35