The Link, Issue 21

Introducing

Natural Hair

EDUCATION

PLEASE CONTACT FOR DETAILS remy hair • european hair • virgin european hair • eyebrows • wigs • top ex tensions tel 323 651 1900 • fax 323 651 1550 • www.dimplesUsa.com • info@dimplesUsa.com

The Voice of the AHLC

ON THE COVER

5 Buying Direct from China 12 Scalp Tattoos: A Permanent Problem?

20 Educating Your Staff

FEATURES

9 15 16 21 22 23 26 29 32 34

How to Turn Challenges into Opportunity Dealing With Custom Order Production Times A Career Inspired by Personal Experience Investing in Your Staff Hair Now Conference When Worlds Combine New Members Trichology and Science AHLC Academy Getting Smart With Analyzers

Subscription Information:

Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition.

To become a member, renew your membership please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

Issue 21, Spring 2017

3

The Voice of the AHLC

MESSAGE FROM THE BOARD Susan Kettering, AHLC Executive Director

As you already know, our industry is a wonderful one. It is everchanging and always exciting. We witness first-hand as a client’s confidence, self-worth and happiness are restored! And we take part in these transformations daily, simply by doing what we love.

However, this industry is not for everyone. It takes a special person to do what we do. One who has innate and a never-ending supply of compassion for others, a heart to help and the ability to balance this with the savvy it takes to run a profitable business. We each understand our responsibility and we take it very seriously. Clients sitting in our chair are depending on us, the professional, to help guide them with their hair loss solutions. And their solutions are very personalized, private, and when properly executed, undetectable.

Over the past few years I have watched our industry try and find its way in an ever expanding, high-tech, online business model, which is readily available to the public. Today everything we do is broadcast over social media, written in blogs and demonstrated on YouTube.

How to make a template, how to bond a hairpiece, how to cut one in, how to apply extensions, etc. And to further complicate things, there are companies that suggest one can become qualified to do what we do simply by watching a short video.

You cannot replace or match the training one receives in a one-onone class, a hands-on program. Those classes mentor the new, Hair Restoration Specialist. Isn’t that the way we became the professionals we are today? We attended educational programs that provided hands-on education and gave us the tools we needed to address the complex issues of our clientele. We were taught about the sensitive nature of our client’s needs and how to address each with care and compassion and we left with the necessary expertise and the credentials to support what we learned. Attending a two hour class or watching a short video does not make one a professional. Attending a conference and listening to a few lectures on hair health does not suddenly make one a professional in the field.

Today we have so many options to offer a client and there are many training classes and certifications. Most of our member vendors offer excellent training opportunities. See AHLC Academy page 32. At our annual conference, Hair Now, April 29-May 1 we will have 24 vendors teaching and educating you about their products. See page 22 or visit www.ahlc.org/annualconference for more details and to register.

There is no other event in the industry that focuses on hair restoration the way we do.

Depending on what stage of hair loss your client is in, we can offer multiple solutions; from offering hair health treatments to laser treatments, to cosmetic hair replacement. The better training you have, the more you will have to offer you clients and you will be more successful. Not to mention how happy your clients will be!

4 Issue 21, Spring 2017

The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 615.721.8085 or info@ahlc.org

The Link Staff:

Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: Thornhill Creative Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill

Thanks to Our Contributors: Kelly Bartlett, CO-Owner, The Hair Specialists, Hudson, OH Nancy V Brown, Owner, NV My Hair, Boston and Atlanta Flora Fuentes, Owner Unique Hair Concepts, Ardsley, NY Andrew Lacomba, Marketing Coordinator at New Image Labs Michael Leigh, President, Joli Caméléon Cristiano Renna, Trichological Protocols, CR Labs Jeanne Sheldon, Owner, Allusions, Cincinnati, OH Doug Spike, International Hairgoods, Business Development and Education Manager Katie Stephan, Manager and Sales Consultant, Allusions, Cincinnati, OH Kate Weissing, Marketing Director of Marketing, New Image Labs

AHLC Board of Directors Peggy Thornhill, President Joseph Ellis, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director Marsha Scott, Past President

The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement.

The American Hair Loss Council © All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published for the AHLC by Thornhill Creative. www.thornhillcreative.com

The Voice of the AHLC

BUYING DIRECT FROM CHINA

DREAMS AND REALITY

Michael Leigh, President, Joli Caméléon

The China Myth: Go Direct to China, Save Lots of Money Maybe you just received your twentieth email of the month from a “Chinese Manufacturer”. Maybe you know lots of your peers who are manufacturing in China. Maybe you think you must be plain dumb for not “going direct”.

The emails and now the calls keep coming. The peer pressure is on. The ads are so enticing: “Top quality 7-star virgin European hair 16” European wig, only $300”. So should you jump on the bandwagon?

In taking the decision to create an interactive locator on the Joli Caméléon website to promote our extended family of independent Hair Replacement Centers, I know it brings business to your door. Women and parents of children with hair loss mostly still want to find a local expert, in spite of the growing number of Internet direct sales companies. I also know that in creating our interactive locator, I am creating a target list for thousands of Chinese “factories” (not really factories – but more about that later) to solicit you directly. They comb all over our website, and those of other US and European Wig companies, hoping to find direct end users or trade customers. They are creative and persistent. They troll you on Facebook, other social networks and LinkedIn. They use multiple identities, multiple factory names, and multiple messages and they are very good at it.

So, finally, you think maybe it is time to give it a try? Should you? It depends.

Do you know what you don’t know?

Michael Leigh at The Great Wall of China

order a sample. It turns out OK. They arrange a trip to China. They meet their very good English speaking “Account Manager”. They have a wonderful time.

All looks good. The price is half what they are now paying or less and the future looks very bright. Until it doesn’t.

Unfortunately, it inevitably all goes wrong. The first delivery or the fourth, the product spec is not right, the color is not right, the length is too short, the hair is covered in silicone and then it washes off and the hair tangles. The factory remakes it. 6 weeks later, it comes back. It’s still not quite right. The Client walks. All that money saved just cost you a long-time client forever. Or many. And that is the real risk. Becoming a direct importer is no easy thing.

And becoming a manufacturer is ten times more challenging. You hear when things are going right - that HRC owner you met at the last trade show, who told you excitedly about their trip to China and how easy it all is. But do they contact you when it all goes wrong? Do you get regular progress reports?

The Peer Pressure

The Attraction There is this world where we know what we know, and we have a fairly good idea of what we don’t know. But the things most destructive to our future are our blind spots – the things we don’t know we don’t know.

I know many HRC owners who have tried the China direct thing and the pattern is almost always the same. They

If I could manufacture in America, I would. And it is not just a question of price. If I want to make 5 beautiful wigs a month, or every 6 weeks, I can do it in America, but for about twice the price of China. And maybe that could be made to work if there was a noticeable positive difference. BUT, that is not the choice. If I want to make 100 or 200 high quality all hand-tied wigs a month in America, there is no supplier. There is a reason all the major manufacturers choose India or Indonesia, or China for hand-knotted work. So where is the continued...

Issue 21, Spring 2017 5

The Voice of the AHLC continued... disconnect? Why can’t everyone do it?

The answer is that you can, if you have enough knowledge, experience, time and money. But one thing for sure – it is NOT cheap.

because they can borrow an office with “friends” for the day. Thousands I like many aspects of China. I don’t of the trading companies are larger like the sprawling over-built cities. But I and “legitimate”, in the sense that they love the countryside. They are a proud have a real business and have been people, even when they are driven to doing it for a while.

However, with ALL cutting corners and making poor qualFirst Contact: The Sales Person trading companies, the security risks ity decisions to save a few cents. Their of what they do with your information After 20, or 50, or 100 email solicitaphilosophies and their medicines are and designs are significant. A confitions, and maybe some surprisingly equally intriguing. I am always made dentiality agreement, if you can even direct phone calls to you, you decide welcome. And I believe the warmth I get one signed, may not be worth the that one Chinese factory looks like the feel is genuine. But, that is no protecpaper it is printed on. When it comes one for you. “It’s worth a try”. The email tion. The concept of “saving face” is to protecting intellectual property in comes back in perfect English, or close always front and foremost. A mistake China, it is not perceived as dishonesty. to it. The photos look great. The webis never freely confessed. If you don’t There’s a cultural difference in philososite has awesome photos on it (that discover it, it won’t be discovered until phy.

What you send to one Trading maybe seem vaguely familiar because it is too late.

Company could end up being sent to they are likely “borrowed” from US multiple competitors and factories. or European company websites). It The Factory Visit They are always looking for something looks promising. Back and forth go the So now you have arranged your “different” to demonstrate to their next emails and then you send a sample to flights and hotel. You are probably prospect how good they are. Your copy (a wig you already sell perhaps) going to somewhere in Shandong or product may appear in an ad, email or you order one that they are offerHunan or Guangdong Provinces. Shanor website for multiple trading coming. This is too easy. Everyone speaks dong, for instance, has over 5,000 wig panies as an example of THEIR work. I English. It all looks good. What could and extension “factories”, except that have seen this happen more than a few go wrong? less than 20% of these are actually factimes.

The effect of this copying and tories. All the rest are trading compaThe Wonderful Sample plagiarizing of your designs can have a nies, who often don’t tell you that. They serious downside for you, as well as the You send money up-front and you may continue the masquerade when industry as a whole.

AND THE PROBwait. After a small amount of trepidayou arrive, with the full cooperation of LEM IS RAMPANT. The professional tion wondering if you’ll get ripped the actual factory owner. If your meethair replacement industry is sowing off your sample arrives. And, surprise, ing is in Shanghai, or in any major city the seeds of their demise with these many times, it is actually pretty good. center, you are definitely not meeting practices, pushing the business to ChiYou test it, shampoo, etc. and before with the factory. You are at a Trading nese direct trading companies on the you know it you are on the merry-goCompany. Your translator has arranged internet.

The larger ones have already round. It is time to go to China. You to pick you up or come to your hotel started to visit the US and Europe for always wanted to go anyway, so why for the meeting. Maybe the real factory end-user tradeshows, and calling and not. You can stop in Beijing and/or is a 6-hour drive away, or maybe only visiting retailers.

Some are setting Shanghai on the way and take a tour. one. For the ones that are far away, up shop in the US. The only defense You’re excited and why not? Something maybe another close-in factory owner is to bypass the trading companies new is always exciting. will do a favor for the trading company completely and to be a big enough with who they already do business. So, The Translator customer to a direct factory that they for the afternoon the closer factory don’t want to risk losing your business Only the trading companies focus will be “your factory” (that is, until you by showing your products to anyone on being able to speak English. In fact, leave). else. And, frankly, that is not possible this is one of the reasons the trading for even the largest individual Hair companies exist. In general, only the There are multiple issues dealing Replacement Studio. very big factories have more than one with trading companies. They markor a few English speakers. The smaller up your price of course, which goes I first started working with factories factories may only have one. Or none, without saying. They are now another in China, over twelve years ago. One of depending on where you draw the line likely point-of-failure in technical the more amusing things that hapbetween speaking the words, versus communications between you and the pened occurred when I was taken to the comprehension of what they mean. factory actually making your products.

This is especially true for technical They may be a one-person operation. It the same factory twice, on the same day, by two different trading compadiscussions. So they hire a student or could possibly be a temporary situanies who had both claimed ownership barely ex-student who often doesn’t tion, laid off from their last position of this factory. They didn’t know each have much or any technical knowledge. and looking for a new one and the other, but the factory owner knew Her job is “translator” and to take notes “Trading Company” is a business card them both. The situation today is even about the meeting and what you want. and a website. You won’t easily know,

6 Issue 21, Spring 2017

The First Trip to China

The Voice of the AHLC more complex as factories and trading companies have proliferated tenfold.

The Illusion You have probably discovered by now that, if you were in a meeting with the factory owner and senior technical team, that not too many of them spoke English. Your Translator was hard at work taking copious notes and repeating them back to you. You were treated to a lavish private room lunch with multiple courses of local delicacies. The lunch lasted at least 2 hours and the day went very quickly. Now you have a relationship and you leave.

You are excited,feel good and think this could really work. Your creative juices are flowing. If you went to a large factory nearer to town, you might have been impressed with their systems, processes, equipment and training programs. But those same large factories are the ones that suffer most from the annual migration of workers after the 3 week Chinese New Year break. A factory may lose and need to recruit a hundred new workers, and train them to work on your wigs. If you are a small customer for the factory, you will likely get the newer workers.

Quality Control The illusion is missing a big component. Chinese factory owners have been driven for years to cut costs wherever they can. If they can save a few cents on lace or cotton or glue or polyurethane, or silicone, they will. And on the hair. So you need to be in control of the hair purchasing/selection. To find a simpatico factory owner who shares your philosophy on quality and actually walks the walk is a quest for the Holy Grail and the odds are against you. As an example our Quality Control manual comprises 72 pages and most of the steps contained in it are generally not practiced in the majority of factories. If the owner doesn’t believe in it, it is not going to happen.

Smoke and Mirrors: Hair Length, Size and Color You have now placed your follow-up order or orders since returning from your trip. Maybe communications have been pretty smooth. All seems well.

And then your order arrives. Something has gone wrong. But how? Usually it is

a problem with length, size, or color. If it is hair quality, often you won’t notice right away. Hair type and quality is a subject that would take its own article.

Just assume you could get less than you pay for. AND, if the quoted cost of the whole wig is less than what the needed Remy or 5A, 6A or 7A raw hair alone should cost, this confirms what you already know. It is not as advertised.

Length descriptions are another maze.

We once ordered a 22-inch wig from a would-be factory and received what we would call a 13-inch layered. Color accuracy can be complex and if they are not copying an actual swatch, be prepared for a surprise. Size is also an issue. If you don’t have your own forms to measure them, you can be caught again.

Payment Versus Returns Now you need to send a wig back for a redo. Who is going to pay? “Well it’s only a little bit off so how about a $50 credit,” may be one of the conversations. But your client won’t accept it and wants her money back. What about your shipping charges. Will you get reimbursed? How long will it take to turnaround the repair? Will it come back right this time? Who knows?

Unfortunately, no one.

When Things Go Wrong, No One Wants To Say The “saving face” cultural behavior is a very challenging obstacle to the early indication of problems occurring. The more you depend on your factories, and the more they depend on you, the bigger the risk. If things go right, it can be wonderful. But if things go wrong, don’t expect to know until after you have paid for the goods, including delivery and they are at your premises.

What Is The China Reality?

The reality is that volume manufacturing of complex, high quality, all hand tied wigs or hairpieces cannot be done in the U.S. Ergo, we have to do it somewhere else. China is probably the best choice. Others may disagree.

But I made China my choice because I believe it the best option. It is no longer a cheap source of labor. Factory jobs are paying higher wages for pushing buttons, which puts more pressure on salaries for skilled handwork. The quest is to find that one factory owner in a

thousand who is a kindred spirit. Who has the pride, skill and belief to make a better product after 20 or 30 years of being told, “save money, cut costs”.

And that owner needs to be personally involved, personally invested.

Can it Work? Risks & Rewards There is an old maxim that says it is easy to do business in China, but unless you are Chinese - very difficult to make money doing it. We go to China on average every 3 months. That is the commitment it takes. We work with 3 artisanal factories which have been in business at least 30 years and have different specializations. Their owners and technical teams are wonderful, but we need to be continuously diligent. To get to this point, it took trips through many other factories that we rejected and no longer do business with. The factory has many masters, different clients around the world. You are but one voice. You need to be in their mind at all times in order to get the results you want. If you own your factory, it can be even worse. Your overheads are now solely your responsibility and in order to feed that hungry and very expensive machine you may need to make shortterm decisions that can turn round and bite you in the longer term. Also, if something happens to that factory, like a flood or fire, you are really screwed.

Conclusion: Go Direct to China Risk Losing Lots of Clients So where does that leave you? You are playing the lottery. The odds of you winning are very much against you. So you need to buy a lot of tickets. What happens when the person who recommended you to go to China, finds out that it is no longer working for them and cost them a lot of money. Do they call you to let you know? Or do they omit to make that call and “save face”.

Maybe there is not so much difference between us after all.

Your favorite manufacturer may not be perfect, but their odds of getting it right are better than yours. And the important thing is what do they do when something inevitably goes wrong from time to time. Would you prefer American or Chinese after-sales service?

Issue 21, Spring 2017

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Challenges

The Voice of the AHLC

HOW TO TURN

Opportunity INTO

3 Great Ways to Boost Your Business When was the last time you saw a new hair replacement studio open in your city? When was the last time you saw an influx of new clients? You’re probably thinking that it’s been awhile and you’re right. Non-surgical hair replacement has lost it’s cool in recent years and it will take some time to get it’s mojo back, but we are beginning to see the flickering of a light at the end of the tunnel. This industry is currently facing numerous obstacles, but there are steps you can take to turn those challenges into highly profitable opportunities for your business.

Kate Weissing, Director of Marketing, New Image Labs

1. Position Yourself to Capture an Emerging Market.

In Fall 2016, it became clearer than ever that new competitors are entering the hair loss category, compounding the issues that already challenge our industry. But with challenges comes opportunity. With a carefully crafted plan, it is possible to recruit a new generation of clients and grow your business. Here are three ways to overcome the challenges your hair replacement business is facing.

Many years ago, Rogaine became available in pharmacies nationwide and somehow pharmacists unintentionally became a source of hair loss wisdom. They were simply in the right place at the right time, so they ended up answering questions and building relationships with clients that probably should have visited their local hair replacement studio instead.

This year, we expect mainstream salons to continue to expand their menu of products and services for clients with hair loss and scalp issues. With pre-existing client relationships and massive marketing budgets, today’s salon industry has unique access to an ideal client-base and they’re approaching hair loss in a new and different way. As an increasing number of clients with thinning hair are asking their stylists for help, more salons are offering entry-level hair loss solutions like scalp therapy. Since we are already offering the solutions these prospective clients are reaching

for, utilizing the techniques of inbound marketing at a time like this puts hair replacement studios at an advantage.

Without a doubt, hair replacement studios are the most experienced, qualified and well-equipped resource for hair loss and thinning. It’s imperative that you use inbound digital marketing techniques to get ahead of the train in your local market and position yourself as the hair and scalp authority. As more consumers search for the solutions you offer, you will have an incredible opportunity to spread your message far and wide without a massive investment. continued...

Issue 21, Spring 2017

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The Voice of the AHLC continued...

2. Expand Your Menu of Products and Services.

Hair replacement is slowly but surely seeing an uptick as more studios are reporting that younger clients are reaching for the solutions they offer and are more open to hearing about their options. As Millennials (aged 19-35) gain more buying-power, an audience of 75 million people who care about looking good and expressing individuality, form a massive untapped market. This new type of client does all of their own research online, so they’re more educated and willing to take action against their hair loss.

At the same time, hair replacement can still be intimidating and offering alternate solutions outside of wearing hair has proven to be an effective way to get new clients in your door. If you can begin a new client relationship by conducting a scalp analysis and in-salon therapy session, you have the opportunity to build the relationship and eventually move the client into a hair system if necessary. If you don’t offer some entry-level products and services for thinning hair, you may be missing a huge opportunity.

3. Lower Your Cost of Customer Acquisition.

Today our mobile devices make it possible to conduct extensive research before we make any buying decision.

You have to assume that every client is armed with information about who you are, what you do, the products you sell and the experiences your previous customers have had.

How much money do you currently spend to acquire new customers? In today’s market, you do not have to spend thousands of dollars on print advertising, television commercials and radio ads. The methods which worked in the past are not as cost effective as they once were, especially if you want to recruit a younger audience. It’s best to meet your ideal client where they are, online. And inbound marketing can be effective and inexpensive when conducted properly.

Inbound marketing is the promotion of a company through blogs, podcasts, video, newsletters, SEO, social media marketing, and other forms of content marketing that serve to attract customers through the different stages of the purchase funnel. This is the basis for Active Care, which was created by New Image Labs to drive down the cost of customer acquisition and bring in new business.

Recruiting a new class of clientele for an entry-level hair loss solution like scalp therapy can save you a lot of headache, because expanding your business has never been easier. You will have the opportunity to build a new client relationship and eventually convert them to lifetime hair clients.

Forward-thinking studios have institute targeted marketing programs and attract Millennials who are already searching for solutions to their hair loss. Offer a customer experience that begins with a hair and scalp analysis, provides a customized product recommendation and tracks progress over time. These create a therapeutic, spa-like experience.

While hair replacement continues to face unprecedented challenges, taking these three steps is already opening exciting new doors. Prepare yourself to embrace the new market, expand your offerings and identify ways to decrease your cost of customer acquisition. You’ll be sure to see growth in your business, even in the face of adversity.

10 Issue 21, Spring 2017

The Voice of the AHLC

Scalp Tattoos: A PERMANENT PROBLEM

?

Flora Fuentes, Owner,

T

here are many ways to deal with losing hair. For many men, the thought of going bald or losing their hair is worrisome. This is why there are more people than ever turning to unique approaches to camouflage hair loss or thinning hair. One of the ways some men are doing this is with the use of scalp tattoos. Scalp micro pigmentation, better known as tattoos, are just what their name implies and when it comes down to it, this may not be a viable option.

What Are Scalp Tattoos?

Scalp Tattoos are a true type of tattoo. Although a different type of ink is used on the scalp than is used for traditional tattoos on other areas of the body, it creates the same type of outcome. The goal of a scalp tattoo is to add small amounts of coloring to the area that is balding or missing hair completely. The tattoo is often made to look like someone has a very close shave on their head. The goal of scalp tattoos is to transform a bald head into one that looks like it was just shaved down with small amounts of stubble left. This helps to create the illusion that an individual has not lost his hair.

12  Issue 21, Spring 2017 

What Can Happen With These Tattoos?

Some procedures related to this type of tattooing have reportedly led to unnatural results. In fact, some men have seen their tattoos go from hair color (brown or black) to blue or green!

The discoloration causes their scalp to look like a different shade or a completely different color from the original tattoo. In some cases, this can be due to the ink itself fading or changing colors as a reaction on the skin. It can be a very worrisome and frightening experience for anyone that has this happen to them.

Discoloration is just one of the many reasons you should think twice about having scalp tattoos. These tattoos are permanent or near permanent changes to the scalp. There are no long term studies related to the use of these tattoo products on this area of the body.

Also, if a you go to the wrong person to create them, it will look unnatural. As with any other type of tattoo they will only look good, and work to create the illusion of hair, when a trained and very experienced professional is putting them into place.

While it may be heartbreaking to learn, scalp tattoos should be thought of as an undesirable solution for replacing missing or thinning hair. The fact is, scalp tattoos create very poor results in many people. In the last four months, I have met many men that were completely unsatisfied with their scalp tattoos. In a few of these cases, I have

The Voice of the AHLC been able to help with traditional skintype systems to cover up the tattoos.

Recently more and more clients are coming in with unnatural hair lines and blue or green dots that a skin or lace hair system cannot cover up.

Twenty-nine year old Oliver Oliver is a 29 year old cancer survivor and professional model. At the age of 20, Oliver started losing his hair. Over the years, like many men, Oliver tried powders to cover up his thinning areas.

At the same time his modeling career started to grow in South America and Europe. Four years ago, tired of using powders to hide his hair loss, Oliver decided to have a scalp tattoo or micropigmentation done to permanently cover up the baldness. The tattoo was designed very low on the forehead and over time turned green.

Oliver moved to New York nine months ago to pursue his modeling career. After going on several modeling appointments, Oliver found himself with limited work options because of the noticeable green tattoo. Photographers had to edit out Oliver’s tattooed hair line.

A noted fashion photographer referred Oliver to me. Being in the hair loss field for over 20 years it is difficult

BEFORE

Today Oliver continues to pursue a modeling career to shock me. Oliver’s case was so unique and challenging. His naturally growing hair is very fine and a color level 4. The scalp tattoo was designed so low on Oliver’s forehead that he resembled an anime character. In addition, the scalp tattoo had turned a blue-green. He also developed a sensitive scalp as a result of the tattooing process. It is a medical fact that a tattoo anywhere on the body may make the wearer highly susceptible to skin allergies and sensitivities. Oliver is one of them.

I decided to design a CNC hair and scalp prosthesis for Oliver. What is unique about a CNC hair prosthesis, is that the hair system is made with biomedical materials that are hypoallergenic, breathable, antifungal and antibacterial. This was the best choice given his sensitive scalp. The prosthesis is made utilizing 3D cam scan technology to replicate the scalp, matching the wearers skin tone, hair texture, denier and only uses healthy human hair that is unprocessed.

To confirm that Oliver would be able to wear the prosthesis, I conducted a skin test. Oliver passed and I proceeded to design a system with a natural hair line. In the interim, while waiting for

his system, Oliver had two laser tattoo removal sessions in order to remove the sharp edge of the frontal hair line.

The blue and green dots are still visible and Oliver was told that the laser may not remove all of the ink as it was embedded deep into the scalp.

With his new head of hair, Oliver looks amazing. He has a renewed sense of confidence and keeps telling me how much my team and I have changed his life. Now, Oliver can continue to pursue his modeling career without being limited for his tattoo. He has an editorial hair cut that is perfect for print but also versatile for a more edgy look if needed. It is a pleasure to see Oliver posting pictures on social media and experimenting with different hair styles.

Have several options so that you can creatively help your clients feel like themselves again. As with Oliver, always be sure to conduct a skin allergy test on anyone that has had scalp tattoos. It’s a good idea to establish a relationship with med spas or dermatologists that specialize in tattoo removal. Be sure they know the type of services you offer and refer clients to one another. Be aware of this tattoo trend and be prepared.

Issue 21, Spring 2017

13

Model is wearing top-of-head system: Trend Ready.

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The Voice of the AHLC

Dealing with Custom Order Production Times Doug Spike,, International Hairgoods, Business Development and Education Manager

H

air replacement production is

very labor intensive. Much of the work is done by hand; with skilled ventilators tying tiny knots one at a time. Most of the time, everything goes smoothly and your client’s hair replacement is completed when you expect it. Of course, that is not always the case.

Nobody likes production delays; however delays are something that every retailer in the hair replacement business encounters. Realizing how stressful delayed deliveries are for both the studio and the retail client, suppliers work hard to insure consistent production times.

In my position at IHI, I have learned that the most successful retailers are the best at keeping their clients satisfied.

Meeting client expectations is number one! When it comes to custom orders, these studios are realistic and do not exaggerate promised delivery dates. They help the factory by

filling out order forms completely and accurately. They submit good quality molds and adequate hair samples. They do their part by accepting responsibility for getting the order to their supplier in a timely manner.

How do these top retailers keep their clients happy when unexpected delays occur? By examining their business from the client’s point of view and always treating the client the way they would like to be treated themselves!

Client loyalty begins with good customer service. The client wants to buy from a studio that cares and has the ability to solve problems. Your service and relationship is why your client comes to you instead of ordering from the Internet or from a stylist who doesn’t have your training, talent and ability to solve problems.

Tips for dealing with delays: Communicate honestly Sincerely apologize to the client and let them know their hair will not be available as soon as was planned. Ask your supplier for an estimated delivery date and communicate that to your client. Make sure to let the client know this date is an estimate only and is not written in stone. If the estimated delivery changes, let them know. One thing for sure, the longer you wait to inform the client of the delay, the less likely they will be to accept the news favorably.

Offer alternatives Be creative. Is there a stock model that would work?

Are you willing to color, perm, restyle or alter the base of a stock unit to temporarily meet the client’s needs? Are there other options to temporarily satisfy the client? Can you restyle or refurbish the hair they are currently using so they look better while they wait? Yes, these options may cost you additional time or money in the short term however isn’t it better to make less profit and keep the client happy and loyal?

Offer a token of your appreciation Everyone wants to feel appreciated, especially when they have gone out of their way to be patient and understanding. Reward the client for their patience. Offering a service at no charge is a common option that can be beneficial. A complimentary home maintenance kit might work miracles at soothing an irritated client. Even something as simple as a hand-written thank you card will show the client how much you care.

Issue 21, Spring 2017

15

The Voice of the AHLC

A Career Inspired by Personal Experience Katie Stephan, Manager and Sales Consultant, Allusions, Cincinnati, OH

I

began working in the

hair replacement industry as a part-time stylist in August of 2013. Only four years have passed and I am now the salon manager and a sales consultant. As have grown, I continue to learn something new every day. The people who are a part of this special world of hair replacement continually touch me.

From the clients, to the staff, to the vendors, I am impressed and motivated to learn more and know more about hair loss and solutions for hair loss each day that I go to work Although I’ve only officially worked in the hair replacement industry since August of 2013, my journey with hair loss began long before I started working at Allusions.

At the age of eleven I first noticed a quarter-sized bald spot on the back of my head. As the bald spot increased in size, and other spots developed on my head, I remember my mom taking me to see many different doctors to find out why my hair was falling out.

The good news was that it was not life threatening and it didn’t physically hurt. The bad news was that I was diagnosed with an autoimmune disease called Alopecia Areata. For some unexplained reason my hair follicles go

16 Issue 21, Spring 2017

to sleep and stop producing hair. As a little girl my long, dark hair fell out in handfuls. I lost about 70 percent of my hair within a couple of months. I was devastated, yet really didn’t know how to process what was going on.

At that time I wasn’t interested in wearing a wig and I certainly didn’t want to talk about my hair falling out and being bald.

Fortunately a loving and supportive family surrounded me, especially by my best friend Rosie, who happens to be my twin sister. Although we are not identical twins, we definitely have our own special bond. This was probably the first thing in our lives that we couldn’t share and it was tough.

She was my biggest protector and cheerleader!

Because of my hair loss, I never wanted anyone to touch my hair, including my mom or sister. I took it upon myself to style it in an effort to try and conceal the bald patches. I was artistic, good with my hands and

Katie Stephan

I became really good at doing hair. Gel and hairspray became my best friends. At slumber parties I would do braids and curls for the all the girls but I wouldn’t let anyone touch my hair.

That was when my love of doing hair began.

Rosie and I always loved dressing up, I would do the hair and she did the makeup. We grew up in a creative home, so pretend fashion shows and dress-up were a normal part of our life.

Even though I rapidly lost about 70 percent of my hair, it started growing back quickly, and within a couple of years, I had a full head of shoulderlength hair. It grew back thicker, darker and with a beautiful natural wave. I remember being in high school and having a small bald spot here or there, but overall alopecia was not a huge part of my life. It was never noticeable and I always got compliments on my beautiful hair. I considered attending vocational school to become a cosmetologist because my love of doing hair continued to grow. I was always the girl who hair for special occasions

The Voice of the AHLC

As a little girl my long, dark hair fell out in handfuls.

I lost about 70 percent of my hair within a couple of months.

and especially for dances. At that time, Rosie and I also began experimenting with color. Today we laugh at various shades of color she was!

Since I had a great love for fashion, I enrolled at the University of Cincinnati’s Fashion Design program. I moved away to do my first internship in New York City. I was so excited to have the opportunity to work on 7th Avenue!

While I was away, my hair started falling out again. Puzzled and confused, I

Today, Rosie (right) is a Chanel Make-up Artist and we still play dress-up. I still do the hair and she does the make-up!

didn’t know what to do. It was definitely a challenge to be in an industry where image is everything.

At this point I learned more about my hair loss and Alopecia. My many printed silk scarves were used to conceal my hair loss. Little did I know that my classmates thought I was just trying to create my own signature style! And then again, all my hair grew back.

The emotional pain I felt from this roller coaster, of my hair falling out and growing back again, was intense during my twenties. I eventually started wearing wigs and hairpieces when I felt like my hair loss was a distraction from who I was in the professional world. I remember getting asked, “Katie, do you have cancer?” I was horrified and upset.

I wanted people to notice me and not my hair loss. This was a game changer for me. Having hair gave me back a great confidence. I was never comfortable with having someone else do my hair, so I learned how to cut and tweak

the wigs and hairpieces to my liking. I discovered that wearing hair was not about my vanity; it was about feeling like me again. If I felt confident, then I could give to people in a special way.

I did a lot of soul searching and after I turned thirty, I decided it was time to go to beauty school. I wanted to learn everything I could about styling hair. I wanted to be around hair. I wanted to be a hair stylist that people with hair loss could go to who they would be understood. That journey began seven years ago. As I look back at that time I am so grateful that I decided to pursue this career and follow my passion for doing hair.

I can’t explain how fortunate I feel to work at Allusions, where Jeanne and Chris Sheldon encourage and support both an amazing team of stylists and a wonderful clientele. I smile when I can listen to someone share their experience about hair loss and help them find a solution.

Issue 21, Spring 2017

17

MEMBERS HELPING MEMBERS

The Voice of the AHLC

Educating Your Staff

Why You Should Provide Training for Your Staff I have attended the AHLC annual conference for the last two years and have gotten some great new ideas for Allusions. It is also a great opportunity to network with other hair replacement professionals and share success stories.

Having trained technicians means that they are learning new skills that can improve production, cut time in preparation, and build confidence in your team and clients while creating a better working environment.

Training technicians costs time, money and materials, but not training your employees can come at a greater cost. We reserve a percentage of each technician’s product sales and apply this toward their training each year. They receive 10 percent of those product sales (up to $00 annually) towards training credits. We also give them a list of all the training options available for the year so that they can choose what training will suit them the best.

1. Untrained employees equal unhappy employees.

Employees who feel inadequate, underachieving or unsupported are unhappy. They aren’t satisfied in their work, which will cause them to under-perform and make mistakes, and not care about their performance. This can cost your business lost time and business and create low moral. The quality of their work is lower than it could be and gives less value to the client.

I

Jeanne Sheldon, Owner, Allusions, Cincinnati, OH AHLC MEMBER SINCE 2014

f you were given the choice between two different technicians to cut, color and style your hair, would you chose one that had extensive training or would you chose one who didn’t? I think the answer is obvious. Training is key for our technicians.

When everyone gets better, so does the company. At Allusions we believe in training for all of our technicians. This year we are sending several of our technicians to the American Hair Loss Council Annual Conference in Orlando . What a great opportunity is provided by the AHLC in having all our vendors in one place. This will allow us to see everything the hair replacement industry has to offer (See page 22).

20 Issue 21, Spring 2017

2. Time and money is lost due to mistakes. When an untrained worker makes a mistake, the time and materials used are lost. The work has to be done again, or worse the inadequate product could cause you to lose a client. It takes more time & product to fix mistakes.

3. You can lose customers and their confidence in your company. We all know how hard it is to get a new customer.

If we sell them a new product and we don’t deliver it correctly, it can cause them to go elsewhere. Our clients are our best referral sources and this would stop the referral too.

Think about what your team needs and provide them with updated training. The importance of employee training must never be underestimated. Ongoing training can be thought of as the best insurance policy against all sorts of the inevitable changes and the unforeseeable needs that can arise in the hair replacement business. You won’t regret it. It is the best investment you can make in your company.

MEMBERS HELPING MEMBERS

The Voice of the AHLC

Investing in Your Staff

And a Great Way to Create a Teamwork Environment

I

have been in the industry for 12 years and a salon owner for seven of those years. One of my mentors told me that the key to success is to never stop learning. I can tell you, if you want to have a growing business and happy employees, providing education is one of those most important things you can do.

We provide monthly, pro bono, in-salon training for our staff. We teach classes that cover topics like consultations, hair replacement techniques, cutting and coloring and understanding how different personalities operate. We are constantly evaluating our staff’s skill set with reviews, retention rates and feedback from clients. As a team wherever improvement is needed, we make sure that it happens. I feel strongly about having a good relationship with employees.

Taking the time to talk with your staff and listening to where they feel they need additional training helps them to open up to you. This has created a team-playing atmosphere in our salon and with that, every client receives the best possible hair solution.

It is impossible for us to provide in-salon training for all the services that we offer and unfortunately there are very few training centers and classes for continued education that is offered locally. This means we must travel and traveling out of state can be very expensive! How do we handle this for a team of 8? One of the most important things is to start planning early. During monthly staff meetings we discuss upcoming training and how it will be handled.

We usually cover one-half of the expenses. We help our staff save money by deducting a set dollar amount from their paycheck each week. The salon matches that amount and it is deposited in a separate savings account and used only for education. A good example would be our participation at the upcoming AHLC conference (See page 22). We started saving almost a year in advance of the conference so that each staff member’s weekly contribution is relatively small. By the time of the conference we will have enough money to cover airfare, hotel, two meals and a conference ticket for each staff member.

When a staff member spends their own money they tend to value the education more, whereas, if someone was to hand them a paid-in-full trip it is easy to not take it seriously.

Salon contributions towards education show your employees you value each and every one of them. It helps them be

Kelly Bartlett, CO-Owner, The Hair Specialists, Hudson, OH AHLC MEMBER SINCE 2015 a part of the growth of your business. Having extensive training and keeping skills current is the best way to meet your client’s needs. The knowledge and experience enhances our staff’s confidence levels as well, and that gets passed on to our clients.

We do not pressure or cajole any staff to attend training, however, it is obvious to all of them that the most successful members of our staff are the ones with the most framed certifications hanging on the wall. It works from the top down. If the owners and key staff members value education, the newer staff members will also. It is our job to educate and take care of our clients and how can we do so without education ourselves? Happy employees create happy clients and happy clients create a growing salon.

Issue 21, Spring 2017

21

The Voice of the AHLC

Nancy V Brown Owner, NV My Hair Boston and Atlanta

24 Issue 21, Spring 2017

Hair Styling: Nancy V Brown Makeup Artistry & Photography: Joanna Petit-Frere Model: Larosey Moore Clothes: Brocades Boutique by Shika Vohra

The Voice of the AHLC

When Worlds Combine

HAIR RESTORATION MEETS HIGH FASHION I came to the United States from battling hair loss and am very emotionMy work has also given me opporCosta Rica at age nine. Costa Rica is full ally bound to my clients. I truly care tunities to work with celebrities in the of culture and art, and I have carried about their journey. In my other world music business, including 50 Cent and these pieces of my country with me Nicci Gilbert. Nicci originally sang in I am an editorial, creative, fashion hair all my life. When the group Brownstone, before signing stylist. This world allows we arrived in the with Michael Jackson and launching me to release any build US, my mother a solo career. I styled her for a shoot up of emotions as I deal started cosmetolwith renowned celebrity photographer with very sensitive conogy classes, but Derek Blanks. During this shoot I also cerns. It is a judgment never worked in free zone, a creative and worked with Akil McCoy, a leading the field. I discovcelebrity makeup artist. happy place for me. ered her books and mannequins in a On the other side of the entertainAs my business has closet and I started grown, I’ve also brought ment business, I’ve worked with Cynplaying with them thia Bailey, a star on the Real Housemy passion for hair to and used my cousin, wives of Atlanta. When I styled her look, the fashion and enterDalia, as a guinea I found her to be very open. She clearly tainment world.

This is Nancy V Brown in her studio pig. I practiced hair an area of my business I has a big heart, and I felt I could talk braiding techniques to her and rely on as a creI saw in my mother’s old books. confide in her ative outlet to express my as though artistry and has allowed At age 15 I had my first personal we were old me to work with amazing experience with chemical hair damage friends. I’ve celebrity clients. Styling a and I was devastated. I channeled my also worked person’s hair gives you a artistic energy into trying to solve the with Terri special bond, and I’ve been problem. I would dream about differVaughn, an able to form wonderful ent techniques that might work. I was actress who relationships with several constantly trying to solve and perfect started on pillars in the entertainthe Steve my technique and was constantly ment industry. I relate to Harvey show testing them out. I developed my their drive to establish back in the own signature techniques and styles themselves as artists, and Akil McCoy, Nicci Gilbert, Nancy V Brown turning them from a test into testiday and more am both inspired and and Derek Blanks mony. People started noticing my work motivated by what they’ve recently had leading roles in Meet the Browns, girlaround town and accomplished. friends getaway 1-2 and Greenleaf. Terri I started to realize how helpful my gift has a strong positive spirit that I found One of the most very relatable. We swapped stories was. As I got older, I inspiring clients I’ve about being moms, and surviving difcontinued my formal styled was Anita Hill. education, receiving ferent struggles in life that brought us She is a voice for many certificates, to where we are today. women everywhere. training and a wealth Ms. Hill became a Over the years I’ve had my work feaof hands-on experihousehold name tured in top media outlets, and have ences. I have a few difwhen she came forbeen quoted as an expert in my field. ferent hats that i wear ward and defended These media outlets have included in my field. I specialherself against Ebony, Essence, Black Enterprise, CBS, ize in hair restorative sexual harassment Nanc y V Brown and Cynt hia Bailey from Hous e Wives of Atlan ta services by providfrom her boss, a U.S. Nickelodeon and many more. I hope ing Low Level Laser Supreme Court nominee. I was inspired my story helps inspire other cosmetologists, artists and anyone with a Therapy treatments, as well as hair by her strength before meeting her, vision to continue pushing forward weaving, extension services and I am and when I styled her for an interview and follow their dreams. also an insurance wig provider. I work for Essence Magazine, I was struck by with adults, teens and children who are her kindness and professionalism.

Issue 21, Spring 2017

25

The Voice of the AHLC

Welcome New Members!

To become a member or renew contact us at 615.721.8085 or log on to AHLC.org Nancy V Brown, NV MY Hair, Boston, MA Art has always been a huge part of her cultural, Costa Rican roots. She is a bilingual artist who specializes in a variety of hair styling techniques for clients of all ethnicities, hair care needs and hair types. She owned her first salon on Boston’s trendy Newbury Street for many years; this is where she gained international recognition for her true multi-talented creative hair artistry. She has expanded her salon and academy locations to Waltham/ Newton, MA and Atlanta, GA. Nancy shares, “I am absolutely in love with my gifts and even more in love with the way my gifts help other people.” Her range of styling ranges from clients who are looking for a new look, protective styling techniques, editorial magazine styling projects, music videos, brides, celebrities, hair loss options, volunteer services and LLLT Therapeutic Lasers for hair and scalp regeneration.

Rachel Gardea Gardeaux Wig, Santa Rosa, CA During my 15 years as a licensed cosmetologist I saw the struggles of women dealing with hair loss. As a singing performer myself during those years, I found it very difficult to find wigs and toppers that matched my hair. I started making pieces for my own use, and listed a few online and found there was a huge demand for the looks I created. In 2014 I left my salon and decided to focus on creating quality human hairpieces that are custom colored. I worked through Etsy in the beginning but now have my business located in Santa Rosa, California. We hear from women daily dealing with hair loss for many reasons such as alopecia, cancer treatment and hormone changes. It is very rewarding to get letters and pictures of them looking beautiful in our wigs and toppers. I am looking forward to learning more about hair loss and how I can best serve the needs of our clients.

Karen F Springer Bella Sei Tu Salon, Huntsville, AL Certified trichologist, founder and owner Karen was raised in Huntsville, AL. She has long been an integral part of her community. After graduating from Butler High School, and went on to have a long and fulfilling career at Chrysler were she retired in 2009. Upon retiring, she prayed for direction and was led to her previous love of hair. She went on to graduate from the prestigious Paul Mitchell School in 2011. She then set her sights on business ownership when she began Bella Sei Tu Salon - translated A Beautiful You. She began her journey of promoting beauty and health to people of all ethnicities. That was also the year her life would change forever. On visiting her daughter in Nashville, she had the opportunity to do the hair of a hospice patient. Shortly after, her own mother was diagnosed with colon cancer. She knew that this would be her specific calling. After years of training, she graduated from the National Trichology Training Institute in 2016 and has made hair loss and disease a primary focus not only in her salon, but also in her ministry. She attends church as a theological student on the road to her degree at Huntsville Bible College. She is a wife and mother of two and is affectionately called MiMi by her three grandchildren. It is Karen’s goal to provide not only service, but also education to all who are dealing with hair loss and disease.

26 Issue 21, Spring 2017

Karen Houshultz, Apple Day Spa & Hair Restoration Salon, Inc. Honesdale, PA Karen strives to keep the staff up-to-date on all the latest styles, trends and techniques in both the cosmetology and spa industry. She inspires them to do their best and teaches goal setting and the value of education. Karen is a cosmetologist by trade for over 30 years, but her passion lies in growing the business. She and her staff are leaders in the beauty industry due to continually updating and educating themselves as well as their clients. Karen is a master stylist and has been working with hair restoration and extensions for many years. She is celebrating 27 years in business.

Deborah McDowell, Hair With a Cause Hair Recovery Treatment Center, Los Angeles, CA Deborah founded Hair With A Cause after being inspired by thousands of incredible women that were referred to her who were struggling with hair loss, particularly those who were battling cancer and suffering from alopecia. Over the years, she has revolutionized The Full Chemotherapy Hair Recovery. Now women around the country have improved their hair health and regained their hair esteem from the care, love and time Deborah takes with each woman while they are regaining the hair they once loved.

Chemistry RX Philadelphia, PA We are a compounding and specialty pharmacy and have established ourselves as experts in the preparation of medications that are otherwise not commercially available. One of our specialties is pediatric and adult dermatology.

Among other medications, we offer a range of innovative topical compounds for different forms of alopecia, including creams, solutions and foams with JAK inhibitors, finasteride, dutasteride and spironolactone, as well as combinations of these drugs. We are working with dermatologists at renowned hospitals across the US to provide treatment options for their patients. We have several talented pharmacists on staff and are excited to provide any possible support to prescribers and their patients. Our pharmacy is PCAB-accredited, demonstrating our commitment to excellence in compounding.

Sunetics International Marketing Group LLC, Dallas, Texas Sunetics is the manufacturer of the first clinical low level laser device FDA cleared to Grow Hair and Treat Hair Loss in BOTH men and women. Sunetics International specializes in the hair loss industry and has received FDA 510(k) clearance on 5 Medical Devices. Sunetics International manufactures under strict quality assurance guidelines and is a registered manufacturer with the US FDA / CDRH as required by applicable laws. Sunetics International is devoted to creating quality products that are safe, effective, and benefit both physicians and their patients.

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TRICHOLOGY AND

The Voice of the AHLC

SCIENCE You cannot imagine how complicated it is to find credible and scientific data regarding trichological research. The reason? It’s business.

Cristiano Renna, Trichological Protocols, CR Labs

KNOWLEDGE SETS US FREE Everyone wants to sell laser therapy, magical products and new, special lotions and medicines. Sometimes though not always, in order to support their theories, different companies show you elusive data on how great their products are. If you look for scientific studies in international journals and periodicals, you will find something to support your viewpoint but you will also find the opposing argument being validated as well. The solution to this problem is to return to pure, substantial research, which is far from businesssponsored research. Is it possible to find this type of unbiased research? In my opinion, yes it is possible. During the past few years, we at Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories (CRLAB) have met a lot of good people involved in unbiased research whose primary goal is to help people with research-based facts.

Having a solid scientific background helps to distinguish between legitimate, unbiased science-based research and sponsored or biased-science research.

True knowledge sets us free. One of the first steps we undertook in the trichology division was to invest in education and training. CRLAB connected directly with university researchers who were seeking a true understanding of what the real causes were regarding hair thinning, hair loss, shedding and sebum buildup. Using this university

research we developed the right mix of active ingredients and built an effective trichological line.

In order to show the efficacy of our trichology program, we invited scientific researchers, from the University of Bologna, to conduct independent clinical tests on men and women afflicted with Androgenetic Alopecia. We wanted an unbiased scientific study to show what kind of effects our trichological system produces on the hair. Using dermascopy and hair diameter measurements, the researchers noted a 20% increase in hair thickness after 90 days of twice a week treatments. We were thrilled at the overall results; when the participants were asked if they would like to continue with this treatment protocol, 100% responded yes and we knew that all the study participants were satisfied.

The importance of scalp care Two simple and honest statements are behind our philosophy of trichology. 1. Trichology is not about the hair and 2. Do you really want to solve complicated hair loss/dandruff/oily scalp issues by just using a shampoo? continued...

Issue 21, Spring 2017

29

The Voice of the AHLC continued...

The introduction of the concept of scalp care.

Hair is nothing without its scalp!

Think of hair like a tree that lives in soil. Through the scalp, hair breathes, gets it nourishment, eliminates toxins, produces and receive hormones. The active ingredients we have to look for derive from skin care and not from hair care. Having a strong, thick and beautiful head of hair depends on how we take care of our scalp. We often say to our clients, “Take care of your scalp to take care of your hair”. The relationship between a healthy scalp and beautiful hair is crucial.

Complete curative shampoo does not exist.

Everyone should employ a trichological protocol made of specific products that provide specific benefits. Of course, shampoos are important, but it’s only function is to clean the scalp and hair, nothing more. We first have to prepare the scalp to receive active ingredients needed — a specific product based on your scalp with high skin purifying action. The net step is products that remain and are absorbed by the scalp.

The goal is to work on the scalp, where all the hair related molecular processes happen.

There is actually a third statement we could add: Do you really think that one treatment will solve your hair problem? Of course not, our scalp and hair system is so complex that one treatment is a good start but continual care is needed. The direct consequence of all these statements is that we need to have a good program. A trichological program where you are receiving consistent treatment over time, and with a similar active ingredient foundation. To find a good trichology protocol and trichological program may take years. Our trichology program took over 30 years of research and results to back up our protocol. However, we will never stop our research as we continue to refine our program and protocols further.

30 Issue 21, Spring 2017

Our motto is, “Knowledge Sets Us Free” and it’s something we follow in all our consultations. Because of internet research, prospective clients visit our salons, clinics and centers with well researched questions such as, “What is dihydrotestosterone?”, “Does all hair loss have a genetic origin?”, “Does PRP work?”, “Is sebum causing my hair loss?”, “If I inject blood on my scalp, will it work?”, and “I found on Google that researchers made a pill that cures hair loss. Do you have it?”. If you are knowledgeable, educated regarding the latest treatments and can provide information about hair loss options then people will trust you. Only with this type of true knowledge can you transform the business in your center.

Many of our new clients are from a younger demographic, ages ranging from 22 to 35. They are looking for knowledge on how to prevent further hair loss. Professionals knowledgeable about hair loss and scalp care will have the ability to provide a well-rounded informative consultation. We utilize special tools that measure the hydration, sebum and Ph levels of the scalp along with a high definition blue light microscope camera to look at the scalp. Together, these tools allow us to quantify results during our treatments and allow us to provide our clients with a true report of their progress.

In addition to the consultation tools employed during the consultation, we have specialized devices that enhance the effectiveness of our trichology treatments. Our specialized devices include a special ozone hair steamer, a lymphatic drainage scalp massager and our patented Low Level Light Therapy. device with blue light technology.

Knowledge of trichology will always be good for business. For hair centers that specialize in hair replacement systems, wigs and prosthetics, trichology/ scalp therapy treatments will allow you to take better care of your clients’ scalp.

Many hair replacement clients have dry, dehydrated or oily scalps. Providing a soothing scalp treatment during their

service visit will address those scalp ailments and balance the scalp condition resulting in a happier client.

Meet Cristiano Renna • Bachelor Degree in Biotechnology • Cristiano interned at the University of Salento in the Physics Department and Physiology Department.

• Here he wrote his thesis on observing living cells through powerful microscopes.

• Masters in Biotechnology Science, majoring in Pharmaceutical Industry, and interned in the Experimental Physiology Department.

• Ph.D. in Pharmacology, Toxicology and Biotechnology at the University of Bologna.

• Member of The Italian Society of Trichology • Since 2013, Cristiano has been working for Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories in the Trichology and Trichological Protocols Department.

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Issue 21, Spring 2017

31

AHLC

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32 Issue 21, Spring 2017

SPONSORED EDUCATION

HairArt

INTENSIVE ADVANCED HAIR REPLACEMENT TRAINING

Hairart Salon, Los Angeles, CA (call for available dates) Includes: Learn everything you need to know about the hair replacement business from one of the leaders in the industry. HairArt has been in the business for nearly 40 years and founder and head stylist, Doris Yu will teach you all the intricacies of the business; from how to discuss with your clients the delicate nature of hair thinning/hair loss and recommending the correct solutions, to making a mold, proper hair ordering, techniques for applying perm and semi-perm attachments, performing proper hair ventilation, cutting and styling. Get an intensive hands-on training on mannequins and actual clients. Learn to incorporate hair replacement solutions for your clients immediately and add to your portfolio of services. Techniques and client interaction are crucial for success, so a one-day or twoday course is not enough practical experience to fully understand, which is why we strongly recommend a minimum of a one-week course. All training materials and hair are included in the cost of the course. Mannequin, tools, and practice pieces are yours to keep.

Cost: $6,000 for one-week course. $10,000 for two-week course Contact: (310) 217-8900

Hair Visions International

SPECIALTY WORKSHOP – STYLING AND CUTTING FOR THE MILLENNIAL MAN

Hair Visions International Hair Academy, May 21 Limited Seating – strictly enforced limit of 15 attendees. Hair Visions International Hair Academy is proud to announce a one-day specialty workshop featuring award winning stylist Eli Mancha. This is an intimate, hands-on cutting and styling class focusing on the hairstyles of today’s millennial male client.

Contact Christine Graham at 800-327-5555 for more information.

GEMTRESS WOMEN’S MEDICAL HAIR LOSS EDUCATION

Hair Visions International Hair Academy April 11, June 13, August 22, October 17 Gemtress women’s hands-on medical hair loss certification class provides detailed information on medical hair loss that effect women and provides the skills and techniques to provide support and care to your clients.

Contact Christine Graham at 800-327-5555 for more information.

ULTRATRESS HAIR EXTENSION EDUCATION

Hair Visions International Hair Academy May 8, July 10, September 11, November 6 UltraTress hair extension hands-on certification class provides education for three hair extension application methods. Intensive training by professional educators provides the necessary skills and techniques that you can use immediately in your salon.

Contact Christine Graham at 800-327-5555 for more information.

The Voice of the AHLC

IHI Aderans Hair Goods

Joli Caméléon

DISCOVER IHI

1- DAY ADVANCED CAMÉLÉON COLOR CLASS

Philadelphia, PA: 7/31/17 Los Angeles,CA: 10/23/17 Includes: • Do you have clients with thinning hair?

• Are you looking to set yourself apart from your competition?

• Learn about available solutions to help your clients and grow your business!

Cost: $FREE Contact: info@inthair.com

WIGS 101: SO MUCH MORE THAN THE WIG Minneapolis, MN: 6/26/17 Includes: • Have you wanted to learn more about wigs?

• Have a client going through chemo and want to be able to help?

• Provide hair replacement services but want to brush up on your wig skills?

• This is the perfect class for you! We will cover different types of fibers, wig alterations, thinning techniques and much more in this one day class.

Cost: $299 Contact: info@inthair.com

ABC’S OF HAIR REPLACEMENT Minneapolis, MN: 7/11-7/12/17 Includes: • Are you looking to advance your career • Build new clientele • Create confidence • This course will educate you on how to help your thinning hair clients beyond the haircut. This 1 1/2 day class will offer basic trichology knowledge and how to identify clients while conducting an effective consultation. The hands-on portion gives you the necessary skills cut an style hair loss solutions.

Cost: $299 Contact: info@inthair.com

NEXT LEVEL EDUCATION: CUSTOMIZED CREATIONS Minneapolis, MN: 9/19-9/20/17 Includes: • Custom Ordering • Creating a full cap mold • Bonding and attachment methods • Hand’s-on cutting and blending techniques • Get the confidence you need to customize solutions for your clients and take your service to the next level. Explore the many options in custom ordering, bonding and attaching, and practice cutting and blending techniques in the hands-on portion of this two day class.

Cost: $599 Contact: info@inthair.com

Orlando, FL, May 2, 8:30-4:30 (After AHLC Hair Now Conference) (Monday 1st May 2017, 5 pm-6:30 pm, Registration and introduction at our AHLC Booth) Vicka Khanis: Russian trained master hairdresser & colorist. Formerly Follea® Salon, Beverly Hills & several others. Over 25 years experience with human hair wigs. 20-year association with Michael, our founder.

Holly Slear: Joli Caméléon’s Technical Head and founding team member. Has taught hundreds of hairdressers about hair care & wig maintenance. Previously at Follea® of Beverly Hills. Over 10 years detailed technical experience with human hair wig manufacturing.

Advanced color skills workshop that goes beyond color fundamentals. Let us inspire you to expand the rules and unleash your creativity. Learn inventive formulations, new techniques, and how to make it work on “long-life color” human hair wigs.

You have a thirst for knowledge. The more you know, the better the service you provide your Clients. And the more you will earn. Caméléon Class Certified Graduates are eligible for special offers and can upgrade their clients with “insider” customization choices.

Held in nearby Kissimmee, FL (transportation will be available).

Cost: 1-day advanced class $995 ($795 for AHLC members).

Includes lunch & and the chance to get it all back: Additional 20% off standard wholesale prices for any single order up to $5,000 total Joli Caméléon purchase, made any time after you book & pay for your class. Offer expires midnight May 2, 2017. 50% nonrefundable deposit required. Balance due in full by April 10, 2017.

Limited class size. First-come, first served.

Contact: 310-593-9988 or email: Hair@JoliCameleon.com Ask Us About Bringing The 7C Class To Your Salon Location.

CERTIFIED CAMÉLÉON 7C: CARE/ COLOR/ CUT/ CUSTOMIZATION CAMÉLÉON CERTIFICATION COURSE Los Angeles, CA July 16-18 Vicka Khanis: Russian trained master hairdresser & colorist. Formerly Follea® Salon, Beverly Hills & several others. Over 25 years experience with human hair wigs. 20-year association with Michael, our founder.

Holly Slear: Joli Caméléon’s Technical Head and founding team member. Has taught hundreds of hairdressers about hair care & wig maintenance. Previously at Follea® of Beverly Hills. Over 10 years detailed technical experience with human hair wig manufacturing.

Maximizing the life of human hair wigs. The Do’s & Don’ts. Product training.

• Creative cutting of short and long styles, incl. updo’s & off-the-face natural styles.

• Coloring Joli Caméléon’s wigs and Toppe™ pieces for maximum effect.

• Customization options to meet specific clients’ hair applications.

• Focus on Women & Children with Alopecia & Thinning Hair.

• You have a thirst for knowledge. The more you know, the better service you provide your Clients. And the more you will earn.

Caméléon Class Certified Graduates are eligible for special offers and can upgrade their clients with “insider” custom choices.

Cost: 3-day class $1,595, INCLUDES a no-charge Joli Flex-Toppe MRP $1,692 for you to work with and take home. Also includes 3 lunches & 1 dinner.

Contact: 310-593-9988 or email: Hair@JoliCameleon.com Limited class size. First-come, first served. Ask us about area Hotels. If you would like to come in earlier/ leave later, let us know how we can help with your plans.

Issue 21, Spring 2017

33

The Voice of the AHLC

Getting

SMART

with

Analyzers

Andrew Lacomba, Marketing Coordinator, New Image Labs

W

hen was the last time you attracted a new client? When was the last time you educated a client? Do you know the benefits of educating clients? If you’re grimacing right now because you answered “no,” you’re not alone. Every professional struggles at some point in time with attracting new clients, strengthening client relations and keeping things fresh when there’s so many products on the market.

However, the solution to many of your business problems can be solved with a single device, a hair and scalp analysis camera.

A great way to attract clients is with a persuasive offer. Offering a complimentary hair or scalp analysis is a great incentive to drive new traffic to your studio. The majority of the population doesn’t know the specific details of hair and scalp health. People will be itching to come to your studio and find out their results. A complimentary analysis, allowing you to introduce potential clients to your business. Include the analysis with service or with a product purchase. A hair and scalp analysis camera gives you the ability to analyze things such as hair density, hair pore status, hair thickness, keratin build up, scalp irritation, dandruff and more.

These cameras analyze common issues that people with hair loss struggle with.

34 Issue 21, Spring 2017

Once you have a client in the chair it’s time to educate. Chances are, your clients don’t know much about the hair replacement industry. Even if they are familiar with hair replacement practices, they may not know much about your individual process. Giving them information and educating them on topics such as hair loss, thinning hair and scalp issues clears any concerns they may have and sets them at ease while sitting in the chair. It also allows your clients to feel comfortable asking you questions, which is crucial to client communication and a great working relationship.

5 Steps to Using an Analysis Camera: Gather Client Information Information such as age and gender allow you to compare your client’s results to others in their demographic.

Once you have your client’s information, the analysis camera allows you to store that information, ultimately allowing you to track client progress, enticing them to come in again and again to make sure their problem is getting fixed.

A complimentary hair or scalp analysis is a great incentive to drive new traffic to your studio.

Choose the Proper Lens

Depending on the analysis you are giving, you’ll want to make sure the correct lens is selected. A lens designed for skin analyzes things such as client’s skin pore, acne, wrinkles, sebum, melanin and hemoglobin. A lens designed for hair may only analyze client’s dandruff, hair thickness, hair density and hair pore status. Different lenses allow for different strengths of magnification. Our devices allow you to view up to x1000 more than the naked eye can see. Using the correct lens is crucial to ensure that you are giving your clients the most accurate analysis possible.

Connect your Camera to a Tablet Analysis cameras are compatible with Windows, Android, Mac OS and iOS devices, allowing you to mirror

what you’re seeing on the camera screen onto a tablet or phone for the client to see at a magnified view. This allows you to discuss exactly what you’re seeing and explain your decision-making. Not only does explaining your decision-making demonstrate that you have a purpose and reason for your actions, but it allows clients to see things from a different perspective and trust your judgment and experience.

Explaining the decisions you make as a stylist can greatly benefit your client relationships by positioning you as a professional, setting your clients at ease, and building trust.

Take Pictures of the Hair and Scalp Once you take the picture, your client will receive their results based on a five-star rating system. Built within the camera are sample pictures of people within the same demographic as your

client, which allows you to compare their results. By pointing out the problems visually it allows them to see that you know what you’re talking about and you have experience in your field, which leads to being taken seriously.

Your client will feel more comfortable taking your advice and trusting your judgment when they see you as the expert. Once your client sees first hand that there is a problem, they are going to immediately look for a solution.

Product Recommendations When a diagnosis has been made and the clients recognize that they need a solution, offer them the in-salon products that you have for sale. This is a great time to recommend that after using the product the client should come in again for a follow up visit. Each appointment gives you another opportunity to build trust and strengthen

your relationship or offer them another service that perhaps was overlooked at first. Being able to show clients the proof that your service is working not only improves your credibility in their eyes, but in others too. Ask clients for permission to share their amazing transformations on your social media platforms and in emails. When potential clients are on the fence about coming to you or a competitor, show them the changes that you are proven to make.

Not all scopes, cameras or analyzers are created equal, so be sure to do your research when selecting the best device for your business. With a single device, you can improve client relationships, increase product sales and increase traffic to your business.

Change the way your client’s view your business, while changing the way they see themselves.

Issue 21, Spring 2017

35

NO MORE BAD HAIR.

CHECK OUT SOME OF OUR TOP CUSTOMER REVIEWS...

“Thank you for getting back with us so quickly. I want to give a shout out to Nancy, the representative who has been working with us. She is amazing and always processes orders in a timely manner. I greatly appreciate your ongoing support!”

“I’ve worked with suppliers for decades and have to say that I am so happy with the professionalism and courtesy that I get from Hairart. They set a standard for service that I wish I saw more often.”

Maggie Varney, Wigs 4 Kids - St Clair Shores, Michigan

Michael Suba, Continental Hair - Toronto Ontario

Thank you Jackie, for me it has been a pleasure knowing you and working with your company which has the best quality hair in the USA market. I feel very proud to say that my wigs and custom pieces are the best made, and the quality of the hair extensions are the only ones that do not tangle and the only ones that my clients have no complaints about dryness or tangling. It is with great pride that I purchase hair from this company with so much experience and excellent quality. Thank you HairArt. Gilberto of Gilberto Hair Center - Miami, FL

ASK ABOUT OUR INTRODUCTORY DISCOUNTS Have questions? We want to hear from you! 310.217.8900 or e-mail us at info@HairArtinc.com. Interested in custom hair systems? Visit www.HouseofEuropeanHair.com Extensions: www.invisitab.com Hairart Salons: www.hairartinc.com Headquarters: HairArt International, Inc. 400 W. 157th St, Gardena, CA 90248 (310) 217-8900.