made for you and I

The cultural identity of American streetwear was pioneered by brands who took the roundabout approach in a time many opted to stick with the grain. Many of the mainstay household brands that we link with timeless apparel and standout statement pieces had humble beginnings wherein the rebellious spirit we now celebrate them for were once looked down upon. It should be asked with any new coming brand, but especially in fashion, how does someone rise through the ranks of obscurity to invoke their vision and style on the big stage? And what discussion on streetwear fashion could be had without mentioning the abstractly appealing fashion behemoth, Stussy. Whether in the bustling streets of Brooklyn or the reclining in beach side breezes of Los Angeles, the brand has come to represent a voice for nearly everyone no matter your walk of life. But if we peel back those layers and deconstruct their success, we come to see a narrative on how one man’s vision took a simple idea into superstardom. This is the story of how Stussy brought the character of the culture to clothing.

In 1980, brand founder, Shawn Stussy, worked as a surfboard creator in his home state of California. He had an eye for creative design and nuance inspired by his musical tastes including reggae, rock and new wave Californian club music. Before developing his first piece of apparel for his future brand, the surfboards he created already featured the iconic Stussy logo. The logo itself told so much of the inspiration behind Shawn’s creative angle, with the logo having a graffiti-like influence while also paying homage to his uncle, Jan Frederick Stussy, who was an abstract painter. The origins of the clothing line we know today wouldn’t exist without the early success Stussy experienced in modeling surfboards. The attention to detail, creative control and experimentation applied to his work all bolstered the confidence of Stussy who found himself more willing to step outside the realm of simply making surfing equipment. His popularity was by no means national and his family had no prior connections with the fashion industry, but with his years of designing boards and tinkering in his family owned printing shop, Shawn set out to start making a grander name for himself and his ideas.

The strategic plan Shawn envisioned was revolutionary for its time and he hit the ground running in 1984 fully launching his brand under the name Stussy. Upon the original releases, Shawn wanted to rework the logo to offer visuals akin to those appearing on more high fashion brands that dominated the industry thus enhancing the appeal of his own clothing.

Stealing stylistic inspiration from companies like Chanel, Stussy lined his designs on basic streetwear essential items like caps and shirts which struck an instant appeal with the public. This differed from the usual labeling assigned to street clothing wherein caps were only reserved for sports teams or part of working uniforms. So for a brand to embroider their own hyper stylized logo on it and adapt it into a fashionable wardrobe essential was game changing.

The brand didn’t depend on the success of one key location; rather Shawn was plagued with the task of having to get the word out on his own if he wanted his brand to truly succeed. This was long before the days of social media to self-market clothing and the possibility of signing celebrities for brand representation was unrealistic. So Shawn ventured everywhere from London to Tokyo finding ways to both promote and pump the streets of each respective city with his inventory of clothing. Upon his travels is where Stussy started to really find its identity that holds true even to this day.

While Shawn didn’t initially know the demographic to pitch to, his world tour brought him face to face with so many kindred spirits that held the same interests and passions as him. Stussy became an ever growing linkage between individuals promoting the rebellious new age of culture and art. So the clothing being represented became a sign of changing times and association to something bigger than a brand. And by 1991, with the help of James Jebbia, future founder of Supreme, Shawn would open his first flagship store in New York. Stussy transformed into something of an underground sensation with the logo passing into many streetwear publications that advertised it as an exclusive brand connected to the true spirit of the culture. The International Stussy Tribe was created where colleagues to the brand and young creatives were given customized articles to spread the clothing line through their own work acting as brand ambassadors. So the identity of the brand became involuntarily entwined with the artists, musicians and talents that dawned the pieces. Many future successful designers accompanied this movement and before long

“The tribe happened before the growth of the brand, it appeared as a form of mutual respect between like-minded people without any consideration or motive of commercial growth, which of course is authenticity. You had to know someone to be in on the look — you couldn’t just buy into it.” people associated Stussy with unlimited freedom of expression and artistry born out of urban origin. Many of the varsity jackets, graphic tees and hats that highlighted this International Stussy Tribe period are still considered highly valuable collectibles highlighting a time wherein creators and street dwellers alike were united under one flag. The international success plus the intentional lack of accessibility to many of the key releases made Stussy an incredibly popularized line that the masses couldn't get enough of. Collaborations with other brands like Nike, G-SHOCK, Supreme and many more soared in making Stussy one of the first street lines to popularize the now common collaboration strategy with other brands. Stussy became a name that carried its own weight and perfectly projected an image advertising art made for the people. Even in the modern day, the brand still defies categorization with an emphasis on appealing visuals that invoke a vibe unmatched by competitors. What stands out most is that as a consumer, you feel as though Stussy apparel is made with artistic proficiency at the forefront thus making it timeless.

As time moves forward and other streetwear giants begin to follow in the steps of Stussy, it is easy to lose track of the strides and nuances offered by a brand that predates the Internet. So many things we associate with streetwear culture became cemented in the time Stussy was at the height of its acclaim. Before the international success and hypebeast status however it is most important to remember that the popularity of Stussy sprung from its connection with like minded individuals. Struggling up and coming artists, creative directors and fashion designers hungry for a chance at expression that the then fashion landscape wouldn’t allow. It was a demand from people that boldly stated if they weren’t offered a seat at the table they would just make their own. And that creative independence is something that bleeds through the essence of street culture. The legacy of the Stussy brand teaches that when you centralize the creative potential of your audience and add a genuine thirst to express your art above all else then you will never be behind the 8 ball.