Where Halifax, October 2019 by Metro Guide Publishing

HALIFAX

WHERE.CA

The Halifax Pop Explosion returns, showcasing an array of emerging and established musical talents

OCTO B E R 2 0 1 9

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WELCOME TO HALIFAX

On behalf of the Hotel Association of Nova Scotia, it is my pleasure to welcome you to the Metro area. Our capital of Halifax is rich in beauty, heritage and culture, and we are pleased to share it with you. Our exclusive visitor magazine, Where Halifax, will help you discover all there is to experience during your visit. This month sees the return of the Halifax Pop Explosion (page 24), showcasing local and international indie-music talents. One of the most popular shows is the annual collaboration with Symphony Nova Scotia (page 24), this year featuring Jeremy Dutcher at the Dalhousie Arts Centre on Oct. 19 and 20. The new fall seasons of Neptune Theatre (page 24), Live Art Dance (page 22), and the Cecilia Concert Series (page 24) are all in full swing too. For details on all this, and many other things to see and do in the city this month, turn to Hot Entertainment on page 10 and the Entertainment Guide on page 22. Where is designed to help make the most of your time by assisting you with decisions such as where to shop, where to dine and what to see and do. Please feel free to take this magazine along with you on your journey—with our compliments. Our goal is to ensure your stay in one of Canada’s most extraordinary provinces is a memorable one. Should you have any questions, or require assistance of any kind during your visit, please ask any member of your hotel’s staff. Enjoy your stay and come back soon. Visit novascotiahotels.org

DAVID CLARK PRESIDENT, HOTEL ASSOCIATION OF NOVA SCOTIA OCTOBER 2019

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CONTENTS OCTOBER 2019

YOUR TRAVELLING COMPANION SINCE 1936

THE GUIDE 17 THE FUTURE IS NOW ENTERTAINMENT PAGES 22–24 >> The scoop on hot events, exhibits, theatre, and music SHOPPING PAGES 50–57 >> Major shopping areas, speciality stores, boutiques, and gift shops

THE HALIFAX POP EXPLOSION RETURNS, SHOWCASING A DIVERSE ARRAY OF EMERGING AND INDIE MUSICAL TALENTS

DAY TRIPPIN’ FROM BEACHES TO WINERIES TO HISTORIC SITES, HALIFAX IS A GREAT ROAD-TRIP BASE

DINING PAGES 58–68 >> Eat your way through the city TOURS AND FAMILY FUN PAGES 69–70 THE ESSENTIAL CITY PAGES EC1–EC9 >> Attractions EC1 >> Getting Around EC2 >> Historic Sites EC2 >> Parks EC6 >> Museums EC7 >> Science Centres EC9 MAPS PAGES EC12–EC17

HAVIAH MIGHTY

ON OUR COVER Jeremy Dutcher teams up with Symphony Nova Scotia for a special Halifax Pop Explosion concert on Oct. 17.

ALSO INSIDE 5 WELCOME 9 CONCIERGE Q&A 10 HOT ENTERTAINMENT

PHOTO: MATT BARNES

12 HOT SHOPPING HALIFAX OKTOBERFEST 6 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

14 HOT DINING

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HALIFAX The Travel Store

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Get inspiring ideas for the most enriching and authentic experience for your next trip!

1601 Lower Water Street Summit Place Halifax 902-422-7106

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Fred Fiander Patty Baxter Trevor J. Adams Shawn Dalton Graham Whiteman Paige Sawler Advocate Printing & Publishing

Where Halifax

Metro Guide Publishing 2882 Gottingen Street Halifax, Nova Scotia B3K 3E2 902-420-9943 Fax: 902-429-9058 Email: publishers@metroguide.ca metroguidepublishing.ca

Stay on top of the best visitor news with WHEREmail, our free monthly email newsletter. Sign up at: where.ca/halifax/newsletter.cfm Advertising 902-420-9943 publishers@metroguide.ca Where Group Publisher Jonathan Harris Senior National Account Manager Catherine Lenihan clenihan@where.ca 416-364-3333 ext 308 All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where Canada is a registered trademark of St. Joseph Communications Media Group, used under license. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes. We cannot be held responsible for any consequences from errors or omissions. Where Halifax (Vol. 73, No 9) is published 10 times per year by Metro Guide Publishing and is officially endorsed by the Hotel Association of Nova Scotia.

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WHERE IN THE WORLD:

The world’s foremost travel publications and city guides (est. 1936), in 72 destinations. Canada: Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg. United States: Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas-Fort Worth, Daytona Beach, Ft. Lauderdale, Hawaiian Islands (Big Island, Kauai, Maui, Oahu), Houston, Indianapolis, Jacksonville, Kansas City, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Miami, N. Arizona, Nashville, New Orleans, New York City, Orange County, Orlando, Palm Beach, Panama City, Philadelphia, Phoenix-Scottsdale, Raleigh-Durham, Reno-Tahoe, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, Southwest Florida, St. Augustine, St. Louis, Tampa Bay, Tucson, Twin Cities, Virginia, Washington D.C. Europe: Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Naples, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg. Asia: China, Singapore. Australia: Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney.

CONCIERGE Q & A

An outgoing person with a theatre background, Todd Young has been concierge for Southwest Properties at Bishop's Landing since 2011 and a corporate affiliate member of Les Clefs d'Or Canada. He enjoys his role at a property with many permanent residents, where he's in a unique position to be part of their daily lives and discover more about the city.

For a visitor, what’s the best thing about autumn in Halifax? Halifax is one of the best arboreal cities in the country. When the leaves change colour the city becomes absolutely stunning. Taking a walk through Halifax Public Gardens (page EC1) or Point Pleasant Park (page EC6) feels like walking through a van Gogh painting—so vibrant and beautiful!

What is your pick for the city’s can’tmiss October event?

What seasonal favourites should visitors watch for in local restaurants?

Alexander Keith's beer is something that Canadians from coast to coast associate with Nova Scotia. And every Oct. 5, beer loves celebrate Keith’s birthday. This year marks his 223rd. The biggest party will be at the Alexander Keith’s Nova Scotia Brewery (page EC1) on Lower Water Street from 5–9pm with an after party at The Upper Deck in the Historic Properties (page EC3) on Upper Water Street.

Autumn is harvest time in the Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia’s agricultural hub, famous for its produce worldwide. Local chefs often use the produce in many ways. Apples, pears, pumpkins, and root vegetables often appear in unique and stylized way to tickle the taste buds and entice the senses. Grapes from local vineyards create the best wines that Nova Scotia can offer. Pair with locally sourced produce and experience world class cuisine without leaving the city.

What’s the best place to go downtown for a tasty but budget-friendly lunch?

Where should visitors go to find unique fall fashions?

If you’re looking for a reasonably priced delicious lunch alternative to the usual burger or sandwiches, try Arisu Table BBQ & Japanese Sushi (page 64) at the corner of Granville and Sackville streets. It offers a plethora of delicious delicacies including handmade sushi and tableside barbecue. It’s a lunch and an experience.

Designer Lisa Drader-Murphy has been leading the Halifax fashion scene since 1997. Her eponymous flagship store Lisa Drader-Murphy Boutique (page 51) in Historic Properties (page EC3) is in a beautifully historic part of the city and provides locals and tourists alike with what they need to look absolutely stunning.

OCTOBER 2019

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HOT ENTERTAINMENT

BY TREVOR J. ADAMS

ART AROUND US

Oct. 19 Discover unique art in a variety of media, with exhibitions and performances at venues around Halifax during Nocturne (page 22). Running from 6pm–midnight, this one-night-only festival takes over galleries and public spaces where you wouldn’t normally expect to discover cuttingedge art. Free bike-valet and shuttle-bus service make it easy to get out and explore.

TIMBERRRRR!

BUTT OF THE JOKE

Oct. 3 Saskatchewan’s Brent Butt, best known as the star of the CTV sitcom Corner Gas and creator of Hiccups, returns to Halifax for an evening of standup comedy in the Schooner Showroom at Casino Nova Scotia (page 22).

OUT OF THIS WORLD

EDITOR’S PICK

Oct. 25–27 Hal-Con (page 22) returns to the Halifax Convention Centre on Argyle Street. The East Coast’s biggest sci-fi, gaming, and fantasy festival features an all-star guest list. This year’s lineup includes actors John Barrowman (Doctor Who), Tracy Lynn Cruz (Power Rangers Turbo), Wallace Shawn (The Princess Bride), and D.B. Woodside (Lucifer), plus comic publisher Hope Nicolson, author Thea Atkinson, artist Doug Savage, and others. 10 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

Oct. 26 Nova Scotia Forestry Festival (page 22) at Memory Lane Heritage Village (page EC8) in Lake Charlotte celebrates Nova Scotians’ connections to the forest for their livelihood, housing, recreation, food, and heritage. The day includes lumberjack events, canoeing, educational sessions on wilderness survival and forest ecology, and maple syrup tasting. TRACY LYNN CRUZ

OCTOBER 1 2 3 4

Oct. 3–5 SYMPHONY NOVA SCOTIA Nova Scotia fiddler extraordinaire Natalie MacMaster joins the orchestra for a celebration of Celtic heritage. Page 24

5 6 7 8 9

Oct. 9 HFX WANDERERS FC In their final home game of the Canadian Premier League regular season, Halifax’s soccer team hosts FC Pacific. Page 24

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 PINK MARTINI

ALL AROUND THE WORLD

• Oct. 6: For almost six decades, The Chieftains (page 24) have been one of the biggest Celticmusic acts around, sharing the traditional music of their native Ireland with audiences around the globe. Now they’re on one final tour, sharing the stage with friends and special guests. See them at the Dalhousie Arts Centre on University Avenue. • Oct. 10: With 10–12 musicians on stage at one time, Pink Martini (page 24) is not an easy band to pigeonhole. The multilingual ensemble (lead singer China Forbes performs in 15 different languages) offer a high-energy hybrid of pop, classical, and rock influences: they call it an “urban music travelogue.” They perform at the Dalhousie Arts Centre. JINJOO CHO

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Oct. 10 HALIFAX MOOSEHEADS The hometown team host Maritime rivals Saint John in major-junior hockey action at Scotiabank Centre. Page 24

Oct. 26 CECILIA CONCERTS Pianist Lorraine Desmarais (right) and cellist Stéphane Tétreault team up for a matinee of classical, tango, and jazz standards, plus original compositions. Page 24

Oct. 29 RED GREEN The Canadian comedy legend brings his trademark folksy wisdom and wry wit to the Dalhousie Arts Centre. Page 22

Oct. 30 NEPTUNE THEATRE Old Stock: A Refugee Love Story, a “Klezmer-folk music-theatre hybrid” starring Ben Caplan, opens today at Neptune Theatre. Page 24 OCTOBER 2019

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HOT SHOPPING

BY TREVOR J. ADAMS

SPOOKY SWEETS

Located in the South End at the corner of Queen and Morris streets, Sweet Jane’s (page 54) is the ideal place to find a unique Halloween treat or distinctive gift. This old-fashioned boutique boasts all manner of high-end confections, candies from around the world, whimsical toys, and more.

NOTHING GLITTERS LIKE GOLD

Visit Touch of Gold (page 56) on Spring Garden Road for the finest engagement and wedding rings. The experienced and knowledge staff will help you find the best fit and designs. Offers lines of luxury watches including Rolex, Tudors, TAG Heuer, and Frederique Constant.

ART EDITOR’S ABUNDANT Dating back to 1866, PICK Zwicker’s Gallery (page 23)

on Doyle Street is Halifax’s oldest commercial art gallery. Its carefully curated collection includes a selection of fine art in various media and styles, including antique nautical charts, maps, engravings, contemporary work by emerging artists, historical art, Inuit and Native works, sculptures, ceramics, and antiquities.

LOCAL HARVEST

• Located in an innovative and architecturally acclaimed home on the waterfront, Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market (page 56) is Nova Scotia’s largest and oldest farmers’ market. Browse through a huge array of local produce, meat, cheese, crafts, baked goods, craft beer, wine, cider, and more. • Located on the Dartmouth waterfront where the Halifax Transit (page EC2) ferry docks, the Alderney Landing Farmers’ Market (page 56) is a weekend tradition for many families, with live music and a variety of vendors. • The city’s newest farmers’ market has quickly become a local favourite. The Halifax Forum Farmers’ Market runs every Saturday morning at the Windsor Street institution, showcasing products and vendors you won’t find elsewhere. 12 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

GREAT OUTDOORS

As autumn’s colours burst forth, the Nova Scotian forest is a popular autumn destination for hikers and campers. Visit MEC (page 57) on Granville Street to gear up for your explorations; you’ll find all manner of outdoor clothing, equipment, and accessories.

HIGHLAND PROUD

Find your family tartan at Plaid Place (page 51) in Barrington Place Shops (page 51) and be fitted for a kilt, too. This is the place for everything Celtic. But there are more than kilts. Browse the selection of Buchan pottery (stoneware pottery made in Portobello, Scotland), hoodies, ties, socks, gifts, and jewelry.

GOOD THINGS IN SMALL PACKAGES

In a Box (page 51) on Dresden Row is a unique little department store specializing in edgy fashions for women and the ideal spot to freshen up your look. In addition to fresh new clothing designs, you’ll find stylish accessories such as bracelets, scarves, and handbags.

UNIQUE STYLES

Freshen your look for the season with a visit to Sweet Pea Boutique (page 52) on Queen Street. Only a small quantit y of each style is in store, so every client is uniquely outfitted. Choose from top brands and also local designs including Sweet Pea Collection by local designer Katrina Tuttle.

OCTOBER 2019

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HOT DINING

BY TREVOR J. ADAMS

DINER STYLE

PHOTO: BRUCE MURRAY/VISIONFIRE

With a history dating back decades, The Armview Restaurant & Lounge (page 61) has long been a beloved neighbourhood diner, that has now taken on a hip new appeal. But the tasty offerings and friendly service have never changed. Locals flock here for the weekend brunch, fresh Atlantic seafood, and gourmet burgers

CATCH OF THE DAY

Just steps from the waterfront, Shuck Seafood + Raw Bar (page 68) on Salter Street offers lightly cooked and raw fare. The raw menu feature scallops and an array of local oysters, plus crab, lobster, shrimp, and more.

PIZZA PERFECTION

• Intimate Morris East (page 66), just steps from the waterfront on Morris Street, pairs wood-fired gourmet pizza with local beer and wine. • New York-Italian cuisine rules at Salvatore’s Pizzaiolo Trattoria (page 66) on Young Street in the historic Hydrostone (page EC3) Market. If you’re not in the mood for the signature pie, the hearty meatball hero is one of Halifax’s most popular sandwiches. • Just steps from the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market (page 56) on Marginal Road, Tomavinos (page 64) boasts an assortment of popular Italian pizza and pasta creations. • If you love pizza, avoid Ristorante a Mano (page 64) on Lower Water Street. Once you have the Pancetta, Poplpette e Funghi (crispy pancetta, house-made meatballs, wild mushrooms, fresh mozzarella) no other pizza will seem quite as good. • Rinaldo’s (page 63) on Windsor Street has quickly become a neighbourhood favourite, with creative pizzas, mighty sandwiches, and weekend brunch. MORRIS EAST 14 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

BIER BITTE!

EDITOR’S PICK

Halifax Oktoberfest (page 22), the city’s biggest celebration of its sort, continues at the Garrison (page 53) brewery on Marginal Road. Enjoy live music, with Oompah and Dave Sampson, food from HopYard (page 59), and local beer and cider. Garrison has brewed a special wheat beer just for this event.

LOCALS LOVE ‘EM

• Athens Restaurant (page 63) on Quinpool Road offers the Greek mainstays you’d expect, but Haligonians love it for weekend brunch: omelettes, eggs Florentine, and a buffet chock full of breakfast favourites like sausage, baked beans, pancakes, perogies, pastries, and more. • Maxwell’s Plum (page 66) on Grafton Street boasts a huge array of beers from around the globe, served alongside burgers, sandwiches, fish and chips, and pub grub galore. • Scratch-made vegan cuisine makes Wild Leek (page 68) a Windsor Street neighbourhood favourite. With an on-site bakery, tasty gourmet desserts are the house specialty.

IT'S THE LITTLE THINGS

Looking for a pleasant nook to while away an evening with friends? Intimate Little Oak (page 63) on Lower Water Street is just steps away from the waterfront boardwalk. It boasts a small and dynamic menu showcasing global influences and seasonal ingredients, a huge (yet artfully chosen) wine list, and a selection of craft beer and ciders. OCTOBER 2019

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The Halifax Pop Explosion returns, featuring musical talents from around the world

PHOTO: MATT BARNES

By Trevor J. Adams

ince 1992, local music fans have been expanding their minds at the Halifax Pop Explosion (page 24). Festival organizers aptly describe the annual celebration of music from the edge as “bringing tomorrow’s headliners to Halifax, and helping music fans discover their next favourite bands.”

OCTOBER2019 2019 MAR/APR

where.ca 17 where.ca 17

Running from Oct. 23–26, the festival (one of Atlantic Canada’s largest events of its sort) takes over Halifax, bringing together exciting talent, eager fans, and industry professionals at multiple venues around the city. There are a lot of shows to choose from; to help you choose, read on for our must-see picks. (The following recommendations are shows that require advance tickets; there are also many walk-up shows throughout the city; keep your eyes open!) One of the biggest nights of the festival comes before its official start, as it presents a collaboration between Jeremy Dutcher and Symphony Nova Scotia (page 24) on Oct. 17 at the Dalhousie Arts Centre. From neighbouring New Brunswick, Dutcher is a classically trained Indigenous tenor, composer, performer, and activist who’s quickly become one of Canada’s most talked about musical talents.

DOOMSQUAD

KAIA KATER

18 where.ca where.caOCTOBER JAN/FEB2019 2018

JAPANESE BREAKFAST

After studying music here in Halifax at Dalhousie University, he launched a stratospheric career across North America as “the newest light” in an “Indigenous renaissance” (NPR), winning the 2018 Polaris Prize, performing soldout shows across Canada, and appearing with major stars like Yo-Yo Ma. An artist of Dutcher’s rich talents needs a big musical canvas, which Symphony Nova Scotia is sure to provide. Another highlight comes on Oct. 24 with Japanese Breakfast at the Marquee Ballroom on Gottingen Street. The solo project from Michelle Zauner tests the boundaries of indie rock and experimental pop, recently drawing acclaim for an artful cover of the Tears for Fears classic “Head over Heels.” On Oct. 25, head to the acoustically ideal St. Matthew’s United Church (page EC5) on Barrington Street as it hosts Kaia Kater. The Montreal-born GrenadianCanadian grew up with her family’s deep ties to folk music and spent years soaking up Appalachian music in West Virginia. She’s known for old-time banjo-picking skills, deft arrangements, and songwriting ability. This performance also includes Jennah Barry and Lydia Persaud.

BEAUTS

OCTOBER 2019where.ca where.ca JAN/FEB 2018

PHOTO: MATT BARNES

ARKELLS

The following night on Oct. 26, the Scotiabank Centre on Argyle Street will be abuzz with excitement, as the Juno-award winning Arkells (page 23) take the stage. Since 2006, the alt rockers have drawn acclaim for their lively stage presence, diverse musical influences (including a heavy splash of Motown), and fearlessly progressive politics. West Coast indie rockers Mother Mother, who have loyal fans across the country, will open the show. Oct. 26 is the last and busiest night of the festival. Other sure-toentertain shows include Toronto hip-hop star Haviah Mighty at the Seahorse Tavern and Elisapie at St. Matthew’s. Described as “ambassador for Inuit culture,” Elisapie offers “soulful down-home folk music as she tenderly looks back on her heritage.” I

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HAVIAH MIGHTY

THE DETAILS This is just a small sample of what the Halifax Pop Explosion has to offer. For a complete schedule, surf to halifaxpopexplosion.com.

ENTERTAINMENT

BIG WORLD

Continuing through the month at the Dalhousie Art Gallery (page 23), Atmospheric Events features multimedia installations exploring the environments around us.

CASINOS

CASINO NOVA SCOTIA Gaming galore, from poker to roulette to 600 slot machines. Dine at 3Sixty Lounge, 3Sixty Buffet, or May Garden. Live entertainment and special events in the Schooner Showroom and 3Sixty lounge. Oct. 3: Brent Butt. Oct. 4: The Northern Pikes. Oct. 11: Legends Show. Tribute to Elvis Presley, Buddy Holly, and Patsy Cline. Oct. 19: Bruce Guthro’s Songwriters Circle. 1983 Upper Water St. 902-425-7777. casinonovascotia.com

COMEDY

RED GREEN Oct. 29: This Could Be It tour. Comedian Steven Smith brings his beloved character Red Green to the stage, sharing wry humour, folksy wisdom, and disastrous handyman advice. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca YUK YUK’S Open Wednesday–Saturday. Shows at 8pm. Students two-for-one on Tuesdays. Westin Nova Scotian Hotel, 1181 Hollis St. 902-429-YUKS (9857). yukyuks.com

DANCE

LIVE ART DANCE Oct. 15–16: Le cri des méduses. Quebec City choreographer Alan Lake has created a mixed-media work billed as “bold, outrageous, and shocking…poised between fable and allegory.” Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca

DINNER THEATRE

GRAFTON STREET DINNER THEATRE Continuing through Nov. 9: Monsters’ Mash. Monsters gather for a supernatural evening of music and mayhem. Featuring 1950s rock ‘n roll. 1741 Grafton St. 902-425-1961. graftonstdinnertheatre.com

EVENTS

GARRISON OKTOBERFEST Oct. 5: The city’s biggest Oktoberfest continues with live music, food from HopYard, and local beer and cider. Garrison Brewing, 1149 Marginal Rd. facebook.com/hfxoktoberfest 22 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

HAL-CON Oct. 25–27: The East Coast’s biggest sci-fi, gaming, and fantasy festival returns. Scheduled guests include actors John Barrowman (Doctor Who), Tracy Lynn Cruz (Power Rangers Turbo), Wallace Shawn (The Princess Bride), and D.B. Woodside (Lucifer), plus comic publisher Hope Nicolson, author Thea Atkinson, artist Doug Savage, and others. Halifax Convention Centre, 1650 Argyle St. hal-con.com NOCTURNE Oct. 19: A feast for the senses, this annual celebration of art after dark brings exhibitions and live performances to galleries and public spaces around the city from 6pm to midnight. Free bike-valet and shuttle service. nocturnehalifax.ca NOVA SCOTIA FOREST FESTIVAL Oct. 26: Lumberjack events, canoeing, educational sessions on wilderness survival and forest ecology, maple syrup tasting, campfires, stories, and songs. Memory Lane Heritage Village, Lake Charlotte (a 40-minute from Dartmouth the Eastern Shore). 1-877-287-0697. heritagevillage.ca

EXHIBITS/GALLERIES

ANNA LEONOWENS GALLERY Weekly exhibitions of student work and selected projects by faculty members, visiting artists, and curators. 1891 Granville St. 902-494-8184. ARGYLE FINE ART Fine art and craft with new works of original, affordable paintings, jewelry, ceramic art, pottery, rug hooking, woodturning and upcycled metal work. 1559 Barrington St. 902- 425-9456. argylefineart.com ART 1274 HOLLIS Twenty-four local artists and artisans run this lively co-operative, offering fine art and craft with frequent new works. Original paintings, jewelry, ceramic art, pottery, rug hooking, woodturning, and upcycled metal work. Open daily 10am–6pm. 1274 Hollis St. 902-446-4077.

ART GALLERY OF NOVA SCOTIA Continuing through Oct. 27: Here We Are: Black Canadian Contemporary Art. Eight artists challenge notions of Blackness in Canada. Continuing through Oct. 27: Salvador Dali, A Suite of Prints. Includes all 11 engravings from Our Historical Heritage Suite (1975). 1723 Hollis St. 902-424-5280. artgalleryofnovascotia.ca THE CRAIG GALLERY Oct. 2–13: Semi-annual Show & Sale. Oct. 17–27: Mosaic For Mental Health. Oct. 30–Nov. 24: Paintings by Jenny Shi. Alderney Landing, 2 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth. alderneylanding.com/gallery DALHOUSIE ART GALLERY Continuing through Nov. 24: Atmospheric Events. Multimedia installations by James Geurts (Melbourne), Andreas Schmid (Berlin), and Christine Sciulli (New York City) that consider the ephemeral, mutable aspects of our environments. Dalhousie ArtsCentre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artgallery.dal.ca THE DART GALLERY Innovative and collaborative art exhibitions and events. Picnic at Dart showcases offers food and drinks inspired by the current artwork in the gallery. 127 Portland St. Dartmouth. 902-404-7330. thedartgallery.com 14 BELLS FINE ART GALLERY Affordable, original Canadian artwork from established and emerging artists. Hydrostone Market, 5523 Young St. 902-406-2355. 14bells.com MARY E. BLACK GALLERY Specializing in fine craft from Atlantic Canadian artists. Continuing through Nov. 3: Craft Nova Scotia Annual Members Exhibition, plus CraftLAIR: Julian Covey Exhibition. Shed 21, 1061 Marginal Rd. 902-492-2522. craft-design.ns.ca SAINT MARY’S UNIVERSITY ART GALLERY Visiting exhibitions and a permanent collection of some 2,500 works. Continuing through Nov. 17: Lunar Voyage. Woodcuts by Tom Hammick exploring “the outsiderness of being an artist.” Loyola Building, 5865 Gorsebrook Ave. smu.ca/campus-life/art-gallery.html

SECORD GALLERY Oil, acrylic, and mixed-media paintings; works on paper including original prints and photographs, plus sculpture and ceramics. 6301 Quinpool Rd. 902-423-6644. secordgallery.com STUDIO 21 FINE ART GALLERY Contemporary Canadian art in a variety of media, showcasing established and emerging artists. 5431 Doyle St. 902-420-1852. studio21.ca VIEWPOINT GALLERY Artist-run co-operative presenting a mix of solo and group photo exhibitions. 1459 Brenton St. 902-420-0854. viewpointgallery.ca VISUAL ARTS NOVA SCOTIA CORRIDOR GALLERY Featuring works by local talents in its Corridor Gallery. 1113 Marginal Rd. 902-423-4694 or 1-866-225-8267. visualarts.ns.ca ZWICKER’S GALLERY Fine art in many categories and styles, including antique nautical charts, maps, and engravings. Contemporary works by emerging artists, historical art from established names, Inuit and native works, sculptures, ceramics, and antiquities. 5415 Doyle St. 902-423-7662. zwickersgallery.ca

MOVIES

CINEPLEX THEATRES Several Metro locations. Halifax: 190 Chain Lake Dr. and 5657 Spring Garden Rd. Dartmouth Crossing: 145 Shubie Dr. Lower Sackville: 760 Sackville Dr. 1-800-333-0061. cineplex.com

MUSIC

ARKELLS Oct. 26: The multiple-Juno winning Canadian alt rockers make a rare visit to the East Coast. Mother Mother opens the show. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com

STRING THEORY

On Oct. 18, the Dartmouth Community Concert Association (page 24) hosts P.E.I. quintet Atlantic String Machine at Woodlawn United Church. OCTOBER 2019

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ENTERTAINMENT

TAKE IT EASY

Hotel California (below) performs at the Dalhousie Arts Centre on Oct. 14, offering a greatest-hits tribue to country-rock legends the Eagles. CECILIA CONCERT SERIES Oct. 6: Stéphane Tétreault (cello) and Mireille Lagacé (organ) perform baroque music by Johann Christian Bach. Oct. 26: Stéphane Tétreault (cello) and Lorraine Desmarais (piano) team up for classical, tango, and jazz standards, plus original compositions. piano Maritime Conservatory of Performing Arts, 6199 Chebucto Rd. 902-423-0143. ceciliaconcerts.ca THE CHIEFTAINS AND FRIENDS Oct. 9: The Irish folk legends wind down a career spanning five decades with The Irish Goodbye Tour, sharing the stage with special guests. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca DARTMOUTH COMMUNITY CONCERT ASSOCIATION Oct. 18: P.E.I. quintet Atlantic String Machine presents a range of music spanning classical, jazz, pop, world music, and their own compositions. Woodlawn United Church, 54 Woodlawn Rd., Dartmouth. dartmouthcommunityconcert.ca HALIFAX POP EXPLOSION Oct. 23–26: Showcasing new and innovative music from around the world, this indie festival features some 150 artists, comedians, and speakers at 15 venues. The lineup includes Arkells, Beauts, Doomsquad, Haviah Mighty, Japanese Breakfast, Kaia Kater, Mother Mother, Jeremy Dutcher (with Symphony Nova Scotia), and many others. halifaxpopexplosion.com HOTEL CALIFORNIA Oct. 14: A tribute to country-rock legends the Eagles, performing hits like “Lyin’ Eyes,” “Take it Easy,” and “Desperado.” Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca JAZZ AT STAYNER’S Get your Thursday night jazz fix at this weekly concert series. Stayner’s Wharf Pub & Grill, 5075 George St. 902-492-1800. jazzeast.com PINK MARTINI Oct. 10: Billed as “a little orchestra that crosses the genres of classical music, classic pop, Latin music, and jazz.” Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca 24 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

SYMPHONY NOVA SCOTIA Oct. 1: Seniors’ Series: The Symphony Celebrates. Matinee (free for seniors) at Halifax Central Library. Oct 3-5: Fiddler Natalie MacMaster shares the stage for a celebration of Celtic music. Oct. 17: Halifax Pop Explosion concert with vocalist Jeremy Dutcher. Oct. 24: Strauss and Sibelius. Erstwhile Symphony Nova Scotia conductor Bernhard Gueller returns. Oct. 25–27: The Beatles: The Long and Winding Road. Starring Jim Witter. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. symphonynovascotia.ca

SPORTS

HALIFAX MOOSEHEADS (Quebec Major Junior Hockey League) Regular season. Oct. 10 Saint John. Oct. 13: Vald’Or. Oct. 19: Cape Breton. Oct. 25: Moncton. Oct. 29: Cape Breton. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. halifaxmooseheads.ca HFX WANDERERS FC (Canadian Premier League) Minorpro soccer. Oct. 9: Pacific. Playoffs start this month; schedule unavailable at press time. Wanderers Grounds, corner of Sackville and Summer streets. hfxwanderersfc.canpl.ca

THEATRE

NEPTUNE THEATRE Continuing through Oct. 6: The Last Wife. A modern retelling of the complex relationship between Henry VIII and Catherine Parr. Oct. 1–20: Pleasureville. A young woman opens a sex shop in her sleepy hometown. Oct. 30–Nov. 17: Old Stock: A Refugee Love Story. A “Klezmer-folk music-theatre hybrid” starring Ben Caplan. 1593 Argyle St. 902-429-7070. neptunetheatre.com THEATRE ARTS GUILD Continuing through Oct. 5: The Ladies Foursome. A Norm Foster tale of surprises, secrets, and confessions. Oct. 19: The TAG Variety Show. Spotlighting the varied talents of the guild’s members. Pond Playhouse, 6 Parkhill Rd., Jollimore. tagtheatre.com

PHOTO: DESTINATION CANADA

THE ESSENTIAL CITY

THOSE WHO LIKE IT

Journey back in time to colonial Halifax and learn about Nova Scotia’s favourite beer at the Alexander Keith’s Nova Scotia Brewery (below).

ATTRACTIONS

ALEXANDER KEITH’S NOVA SCOTIA BREWERY Explore restored portions of Alexander Keith’s home, brewhouse, and a 200-year-old private tavern. Tour includes traditional songs, stories, and samples of Keith’s beer. Tours daily until Oct. 31; Friday–Sunday Nov. 1–May 31. Book tours during the week for large groups. Admission charged. Retail store open daily, yearround. 1496 Lower Water St., 902-455-1474. keiths.ca FISHERMAN’S COVE Quaint, restored 200-year-old fishing village with a variety of activities for the whole family. At the entrance to Halifax Harbour, a 20-minute drive from downtown. Picturesque boardwalk, with shops offering Maritime crafts, unique folk art, candy, and souvenirs. Also: seafood restaurant, bakery, café, art gallery, and a Marine Interpretative Centre. Free admission. Open daily. Duration of visit: about two hours. W. 30 Government Wharf Rd., Eastern Passage. 902-465-6093. fishermanscove.ns.ca HALIFAX CENTRAL LIBRARY Making a bold architectural statement, this library draws acclaim from around the world. Free Wi-Fi. Great views of the city from the rooftop patio. Hosts readings and special events. Halifax Public Libraries has 14 branches around the city. 5440 Spring Garden Rd. 902-490-5700. halifaxpubliclibraries.ca HALIFAX PUBLIC GARDENS Opened in 1867, this is one of North America’s finest formal Victorian gardens. Surrounded by a wrought-iron fence and protected by a magnificent tree canopy, its 6.5 hectares include formal floral displays, weeping trees, fountains, roses, magnolias, and foliage plants. Ducks and geese splash in the ponds. Duration of visit: about an hour. Smoke-free. Café on-site. Main entrance on the corner of Spring Garden Road and South Park Street. Open daily 7am–30 minutes before sunset; off-season 8am–4pm. halifaxpublicgardens.ca

HATFIELD FARM COWBOY ADVENTURES Boasts 20+ horses and 12 kilometres of woodland trails. Wagon/sleigh and trail rides, a petting pen, cookouts, overnight adventures, allinclusive weddings, birthday parties, and corporate meetings. 1840 Hammonds Plains Rd., Hammonds Plains. 902-835-5676 or 877-835-5676. hatfieldfarm.com NOVASCOTIAN CRYSTAL Makers of fine, mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal, using Old World tools and techniques. Full line of handcrafted products. Showroom open year-round, glassworks hours vary seasonally. International shipping. 5080 George St. 902-492-0416 or 1-888-977-2797 in Canada and the U.S. novascotiancrystal.com PEGGY’S COVE The famous lighthouse, perched atop ancient granite worn smooth by the pounding waves, dominates this rugged fishing community. Explore the unique rock formations but be careful: the rocks can be slippery (if they’re black, they’re wet and unsafe to walk on) and the waves are dangerously unpredictable. Restaurants, galleries, shops, and accommodations nearby. Rte. 333, 44 kilometres west of Halifax.

This directory includes editors’ recommendations and regular advertisers. Information is subject to change, so call ahead to avoid disappointment. ATTRACTIONS.....................................................................EC1 GETTING AROUND �� EC2 HISTORIC SITES �� EC2 PARKS..................................................................................... EC5 MUSEUMS �� EC7 SCIENCE CENTRES ��EC9 W.......................................................... Wheelchair accessible OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

where.ca EC1

THE ESSENTIAL CITY GETTING AROUND

ANGUS L. MACDONALD BRIDGE

AIR SERVICE There is regular service from Halifax’s Stanfield International Airport to major North American and European destinations with connections spanning the globe. Arrange taxi and limo service at the Ground Transportation desk. MetroX bus service connects the airport to the urban core (halifax.ca/transit or call 311). 1 Bell Blvd., Enfield (Exit 6, off Hwy. 102). 902-873-4422. halifaxairport.com HALIFAX TRANSIT $2.75 for adults, $2 for seniors/children. Free transfers between buses and ferries. The Halifax ferry terminal is at the corner of George and Lower Water streets. The main Dartmouth ferry terminal is at Alderney Landing on Ochterloney Street, also ferry service between Woodside and Halifax (Monday–Friday, peak hours only). Dial 311 for schedules and route information. halifax.ca/transit INTERPROVINCIAL FERRIES Saint John, N.B. to Digby, N.S. (year-round): 1-888-249-7245, ferries.ca. Wood Islands, P.E.I. to Caribou, N.S. (May 1–Dec. 20): 1-888-249-7245, ferries.ca. North Sydney, N.S. to Port aux Basques, N.L. (yearround): 1-800-341-7981, marineatlantic.ca

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

INTERCITY RAIL & BUS SERVICES Maritime Bus Service links Halifax with the Annapolis Valley, northern Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, P.E.I., New Brunswick, Quebec (Rivière-du-Loup), and Maine (Bangor): 902-429-2029, maritimebus.com. The Via Rail train The Ocean leaves Halifax for Montreal on Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday with connections to the rest of Canada and the U.S.: 888-842-7245, viarail.ca. All depart from 1161 Hollis St. PARKING Many streets have metered parking (with time and date restrictions; check the signs). The colour atop the meters indicates the maximum parking time (red: 30 minutes, grey: 90 minutes, green: two hours, yellow: three or five hours). You’ll also find privately operated parking lots on the waterfront and at most shopping malls and hotels. TOLL BRIDGES The Angus L. Macdonald Bridge (the “Old Bridge”) and the A. Murray MacKay Bridge (the “New Bridge”) link Halifax and Dartmouth. Toll is $1 cash (quarters, loonies, and toonies only) or 80 cents for MacPass users. No pedestrians or cyclists allowed on the MacKay Bridge. hdbc.ca

SHUBENACADIE CANAL Following an ancient Mi’kmaq route across Nova Scotia, the canal links a series of lakes and rivers between Halifax Harbour and the Bay of Fundy. Lock 1 is in Dartmouth between Sullivan’s Pond and Lake Banook. The Fairbanks Centre (open during business hours year-round) at 54 Locks Rd., Dartmouth (off Waverley Road., Hwy. 318) displays the history of this National Historic Civil Engineering Site. Broad trails follow the old canal for 20 kilometres. Follow Hwy. 2 up the lakes to pass Lock 4 in Fall River, Lock 5 in a small park at Wellington, and Lock 6 in Enfield. Fairbanks Centre: 902-462-1826. shubenacadiecanal.ca SULLIVAN’S POND This artificial pond in the heart of Dartmouth was constructed as part of the Shubenacadie Canal system. Surrounded by landscaped lawns, attractive floral displays and trees, with a bandstand at its centre, the area is now a civic park and serves as a temporary home for hundreds of migrating waterfowl. Ochterloney and Crichton streets, Dartmouth. EC2

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VISITOR INFORMATION There are Nova Scotia Visitor Information Centres at 1655 Lower Water St. (902-424-4248) and the airport (902-873-1223). The provincial hotline (1-800-565-0000) also offers tourist information. novascotia.com

WORLD PEACE PAVILION Conceived by Metro Youth for Global Unity, the triangular-shaped monument incorporates rocks and bricks from countries all over the world. Displays include a 90-kilogram piece of the Berlin Wall. On the waterfront in Dartmouth’s Ferry Terminal Park.

HISTORIC SITES

CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ALL SAINTS (Anglican) Gothicstyle cathedral opened in 1910. Notable for its stained-glass windows, the beautiful woodcarvings of its pulpit and chancel, and hand-done needlework on the kneelers and bishop’s stall. Visitors welcome. Duration of visit: about 30 minutes. Usually open Monday–Friday, 9:30am–3pm, plus Sunday worship. Voluntary donation. 1330 Cathedral Ln. 902-423-6002. cathedralchurchofallsaints.com

THE ESSENTIAL CITY CHRIST CHURCH (Anglican) The oldest church in Dartmouth (built in 1817), this registered heritage building exemplifies Georgian architectural design. The beautiful stained-glass windows were presented as memorials. The weather vane atop the steeple depicts Halley’s Comet. Genealogical service available. Visit by appointment. 50 Wentworth St., Dartmouth. 902-466-4270. christchurchdartmouth.com

THE WAY WE WERE

Costumed reenactors bring history to life at Halifax Citadel (below).

GEORGES ISLAND From the Halifax waterfront, look south toward the harbour entrance at the grassy island with the small lighthouse. From the mid-18th century to the Second World War, Georges Island was the scene of constant military activity and integral in the defence of Halifax Harbour. Open for special events only. pc.gc.ca

GRANVILLE MALL Destroyed by fire in 1859, the wooden buildings on this block were rebuilt in the Italianate style. The streetscape features 17 heritage buildings. Today, it features an attractive plaza and a collection of restaurants, shops, and a pub. When building the Barrington Hotel on the west side of the plaza, workers restored the original façades. North end of Granville Street. HALIFAX CITADEL NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Completed in 1856, the present Citadel is the fourth in a series of forts since 1749 to occupy the hill overlooking the harbour. Although never attacked, the fort was occupied by the British army until 1906 and by Canadian forces during the world wars. Operated by Parks Canada, the Citadel is one of Canada’s most visited National Historic Sites. Army Museum on site. Admission charged May 7–Oct. 31. Grounds open year-round. Average duration of visit: three hours. Entrance at corner of Sackville and Brunswick streets. 902-426-5080. pc.gc.ca HALIFAX CITY HALL This noble, eclectic Victorian structure has stood guard over the Grand Parade square (the symbolic centre of Halifax) since 1888. In 1984, Halifax City Hall became a National Historic Site, lauded for the “civic pride and optimism…symbolized by its monumental scale, elaborate design and prominent location.” 1841 Argyle St. halifax.ca/community/HalifaxCityHall/index.html HISTORIC PROPERTIES Covering three square blocks, this collection of restored heritage buildings includes stone warehouses built to hold privateers’ booty at the turn of the 18th century. The area was nearly lost to urban renewal but in 1963 was designated a National Historic Site. Cobbled courtyards and waterfront boardwalks offer an array of shops, dining spots, and other businesses. Open daily. Upper Water Street, north from Duke Street. 902-429-0530. historicproperties.ca THE HYDROSTONE 1917’s Halifax Explosion (see Fort Needham Memorial Bell Tower) destroyed almost all of Halifax’s North End. The reconstruction included 328 houses built from unique cement blocks known as hydrostone. Today, the area is called “The Hydrostone,” one of the city’s most attractive neighbourhoods. The houses are private but you can amble around the shops and restaurants of the Hydrostone Market between Agricola and Gottingen streets. 5509–5555 Young St. hydrostonemarket.ca

PHOTO: DESTINATION CANADA

GOVERNMENT HOUSE Built for Sir John and Lady Frances Wentworth between 1800 and 1805, Government House is one of the oldest official residences in Canada. Today it’s the residence and office of Nova Scotia’s Lieutenant-Governor. Open to the public only during special events; see website for schedule. W. 1451 Barrington St. 902-424-7001. lt.gov.ns.ca

LITTLE DUTCH CHURCH (Lutheran/Anglican) German settlers who arrived in the 1750s founded this tiny church on Brunswick Street, the oldest Lutheran church in Canada. (“Dutch” was a common term for speakers of any Germanic language). By the end of the 18th century, the congregation had outgrown the little church and built Saint George’s Round Church, which became an Anglican church in 1827. Tours by appointment (St. George’s Parish Office: 902-423-1059 or office@roundchurch.ca). McNABS ISLAND Once key to the harbour defence system, this island just inside the entrance to Halifax Harbour now offers picnicking and hiking. Trails lead past the island’s lighthouse, abandoned fortifications, beaches, and old homesteads where gardens now grow wild. Accessible by ferry from Eastern Passage or charter boat from Cable Wharf at the foot of George Street and the Northwest Arm. NEW HORIZONS BAPTIST CHURCH Formerly Cornwallis Street Baptist Church, this heritage property is considered the mother church of the African United Baptist Association. Since its founding in 1832 by former slave Rev. Richard Preston, this church has become a touchstone for Halifax’s Black community. Worship Sunday at 10:45am; visit other times by appointment. 5457 Cornwallis St. 902-429-5573. newhorizonsbaptist.ca OLD BURYING GROUND The first burial here came a day after the arrival of Edward Cornwallis, who established a settlement in 1749. The earliest gravestone dates from 1752. The entrance is dominated by the lion-topped WelsfordParker Monument, the only such memorial to the Crimean War in North America. Restorations are ongoing; visitors are encouraged to ramble through Halifax’s past. Interpretation plaques on-site help you delve into history. Open May– October. Free admission, donations welcome. Barrington Street at Spring Garden Road. OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

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THE ESSENTIAL CITY TIME KEEPS ON TICKIN’

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA/WALLY HAYES

For more than two centuries, the Old Town Clock has stood sentinel over downtown Halifax.

OLD TOWN CLOCK This Halifax landmark has watched over the city ever since its workings arrived from England in 1803. The dashing Duke of Kent, head of the garrison at Halifax from 1794–1800 and eventual father of Queen Victoria, designed this timepiece to keep the garrison and townspeople punctual. At the base of Citadel Hill (on Brunswick Street at the top of George Street). OUR LADY OF SORROWS CHAPEL (Roman Catholic) Marching from St. Mary’s Basilica to the site, more than 1,800 people erected this beautiful little church in just one day: August 31, 1843. The French stained-glass windows date to the 16th and 17th centuries. The chapel sits on the crest of a hill in the Holy Cross Cemetery at the corner of South and South Park streets. Contact St. Mary’s Basilica: 902-423-4116. PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH OF ST. DAVID Built in 1868–69, this was originally the home of the Grafton Street Methodist Church. Since 1925, it has been home to the Presbyterian Church of St. David. Inside, find stained-glass windows and a Casavant Frères organ. 1544 Grafton St. 902-423-1944. saintdavids.ca PRINCE OF WALES TOWER NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Edward, Duke of Kent (Queen Victoria’s father), had the tower built in the 1790s to help protect British gun batteries on the coast of what today is Point Pleasant Park. The round, thick-walled fort was the first of its type in North America, a prototype of a new system of coastal defences. Grounds open year-round. Point Pleasant Park, (entrances at the south end of Tower Road and Point Pleasant Drive). 902-426 5080. pc.gc.ca PROVINCE HOUSE Completed in 1819, Nova Scotia’s provincial legislative building is Canada’s oldest seat of government. Today a National Historic Site, it is one of the finest examples of 19th-century Georgian architecture in North America. Free admission. Open weekdays for self-guided tours 9am–4pm. 1726 Hollis St. 902-424-4661. nslegislature.ca EC4

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ST. GEORGE’S GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH The heart of Halifax’s vibrant Greek community, this church hosts concerts, cultural and community events, including the annual Halifax Greek Fest (mid June). 38 Purcell’s Cove Rd. 902-479-1271. halifaxgreeks.ca ST. GEORGE’S ROUND CHURCH (Anglican) In building this unique church, the German congregation (see Little Dutch Church) had the help of a royal patron, Edward, Duke of Kent (father of Queen Victoria): a talented amateur architect with a fondness for round classical Palladian buildings. In 1912, it hosted a funeral service for the “Unknown Child” from the Titanic. Holds baptismal, marriage, and burial records dating to the 1950s. Contact the parish office to set up a tour. 2222 Brunswick St. 902-423-1059. roundchurch.ca ST. MARY’S CATHEDRAL BASILICA (Roman Catholic) When construction began on St. Mary’s in 1820, the design was for a smaller Georgian church. In the 1860s and 1870s, the building was transformed inside and out to the grand Victorian Gothic style. Acclaimed New York architect Patrick Charles Keely (who designed more than 500 North American churches) designed the highly embellished façade. Open year-round, tours by appointment. A small museum is at the back of the altar. 5221 Spring Garden Rd. 902-429-9800. stmbasilica.com ST. MATTHEW’S UNITED CHURCH In 1749, the Church of England started St. Paul’s. Dissenters (mostly Congregationalists from New England) were allowed to worship there until they had their own place of worship— Mather’s Church, later to become St. Matthew’s, at the corner of Hollis and Prince streets. Relocated in 1859 to Barrington Street, St. Matthew’s is the oldest United (Non-Conformist) Church in Canada. Guided tours by appointment. Sunday worship at 10:30am. W. 1479 Barrington St. 902-423-9209. stmatts.ns.ca

THE BIG HARBOUR

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

A popular destination for visitors and locals alike, the Halifax waterfront bustles year-round.

PARKS

ST. PAUL’S ANGLICAN CHURCH Founded by royal proclamation in 1749 and built in 1750, St. Paul’s is the oldest Protestant church in Canada and the oldest building in Halifax. The crypt holds the remains of illustrious British colonials. St. Paul’s was Britain’s first overseas cathedral. The memorial tablets on its walls form a fascinating record of the early settlers. The “Explosion Window” and piece of window frame embedded in the interior wall of the narthex are relics of the 1917 Halifax Explosion. Open weekdays year-round; weekdays and Saturdays in summer. Parish liturgies open to visitors Sunday and Wednesday (see website for times). Genealogical services available for a fee. W. Grand Parade, 1749 Argyle St. 902-429-2240. stpaulshalifax.org

SS ATLANTIC HERITAGE PARK In 1873, 562 people died off the shores of Lower Prospect when the SS Atlantic sank. It was the worst single-vessel marine disaster to occur off Canada’s coast prior to the Titanic. This heritage site is the burial place for 277 of the victims and includes a park with a seaside boardwalk and a monument to the victims. About 32 kilometres west of Halifax along the Lighthouse Route (Route 333, follow the highway signs). Open mid May–end of October. Park is wheelchair accessible and open year-round (no winter maintenance). Free admission. 180 Sandy Cove Rd., Terence Bay. 902-852-1557. ssatlantic.com

YORK REDOUBT NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE The site’s earliest fortifications were built in 1793 at the outbreak of war between Britain and revolutionary France. Visit the Command Post built during the Second World War, when the site was the nerve centre for Halifax’s defence. Enjoy a picnic among the trees and walk along coastal trails. Grounds open daily yearround (no off-season maintenance). Average duration of visit: about two hours. Off Rte. 253/Purcell’s Cove Rd., a 25-minute drive from downtown Halifax. 902-426-5080. pc.gc.ca

PHOTO: DISCOVER HALIFAX

SAINT PATRICK’S CHURCH (Roman Catholic) Built in 1885. Distinctive features include an Irish harp carved at the end of each pew, a Casavant Frères organ dating back to 1889, exquisite stained glass from the Mayer Company of Munich, Germany and featuring a shamrock in every single window, a marble high altar, statues of Mary and Joseph (the Patron Saint of Canada), and more. Mass on Sunday at 10am. Phone or drop by the Church Hall to arrange a tour. 2267 Brunswick St. 902-429-4170. saintpatrickschurch.ca

TIME TESTED

Built in 1819, Province House (page EC4) is Canada’s oldest seat of government. OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

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THE ESSENTIAL CITY AFRICVILLE/SEAVIEW PARK Former site of Africville, a black community that was relocated in the 1960s (see commemorative plaque on-site). A recent project rebuilt the historic Seaview Baptist Church that stood on this site, and restored the area’s original name. The park is the site of an annual Africville Reunion (typically the last weekend in July). Average duration of visit: 30 minutes. North end of Barrington Street at Africville Road, below the MacKay Bridge. africville.ca

FORT NEEDHAM MEMORIAL BELL TOWER The tower overlooks the North End of Halifax, an area devastated by the Halifax Explosion, which took place when the Belgian relief ship Imo collided with the French munitions vessel Mont-Blanc on Dec. 6, 1917. The tower pays tribute to the 2,000 people who died. Average duration of visit: half an hour. Union Street, near Novalea Drive. HALIFAX COMMON Originally laid out in 1762, this is Canada’s oldest city park and serves as a major recreational area. Children clamber about the large playground and athletes of all ages play baseball, football, soccer, and other sports until dark. Skating Oval hosts in-line skating in warmer weather and ice skating in winter (free skate and helmet rentals on site). Bordered by Robie, Cogswell, and North Park streets.

DARTMOUTH COMMON Follow the path to the top of the hill and enjoy a breathtaking view of the Halifax Harbour. A cairn commemorates the 1750 landing of 353 settlers from the ship Alderney and the founding of the original town of Dartmouth. The Common includes Leighton Dillman Scenic Garden (named for the volunteer who created it). Average duration of visit: one hour. Bordered by Alderney Drive, Nantucket Avenue, Victoria Road, and Park Avenue.

HEMLOCK RAVINE PARK When Edward, Duke of Kent (and eventual father of Queen Victoria) arrived in Halifax in 1794 to command the Halifax garrison, he lived at an elaborate estate with his French mistress, Julie St. Laurent. Its only remaining building is an elegant rotunda perched between the water and the Bedford Highway. The rotunda isn’t open to the public, but the park welcomes visitors year-round. Graceful paths lead to Julie’s heart-shaped pond. Average duration of visit: one hour. Enter at the top of Kent Avenue. off the Bedford Highway (Rte. 2) or behind Grosvenor Wentworth Park School, off Kearney Lake Road. (Grosvenor Road to Castlehill Drive to Downing Street).

FERRY TERMINAL PARK Enjoy the scenery in and around this park from its boardwalks, which follow the shores of Halifax Harbour. The ship Alderney landed here, carrying the first 353 settlers to Dartmouth in 1750. Average duration of visit: half an hour. Adjacent to the Halifax Transit ferry terminal on Alderney Drive in Dartmouth.

POINT PLEASANT PARK Magnificent views of ships and yachts entering and leaving the busy harbour. The park’s 39 kilometres of roads and trails wind through the forest and among military ruins, rocky hills, and ravines. Average duration of visit: two hours. Picnic tables available. Entrances and parking lots at the south ends of Tower Road and Point Pleasant Drive. Halifax Transit route 29. Open year-round. pointpleasantpark.ca THE SANDS AT SALTER Green space, seating, and a connection to an extended boardwalk with waterfront hammocks. Seasonal vendors line the path. Located at the foot of Salter Street. developns.ca/projects/sands-at-salter/

SHIP TO SHORE

The Halifax Transit (EC2) passenger ferry sails between the downtown and Dartmouth many times each day. EC6

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PHOTO: DESTINATION CANADA

SHUBIE PARK Running through the park, the Shubenacadie Canal spanned Nova Scotia in the 1800s. Notice the difference between the forests on either side of the canal. On the west side, pioneer species such as birch, aspen, and blueberry colonized a burnt area. On the other side, the trees are older and mostly hemlock, spruce, and fir. On the islands in the lakes at either end of the park are the best examples of the original pine forest. 54 Locks Rd., Dartmouth SIR SANDFORD FLEMING PARK Two major walking trails wind through this 38-hectare park. Dominating the park is the Memorial Tower, an imposing landmark built by Sir Sandford Fleming in the early 1900s to commemorate the first legislative assembly in the British Empire (1758). Playground made of hand-carved tree trunks on-site. Average duration of visit: about two hours. Located on Dingle Road, off Purcell’s Cove Road, about two kilometres from the Armdale Roundabout. Tower open daily, May–November; grounds open year-round though not winter maintained.

WELCOME HOME

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

The Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 (below) shares the stories of thousands of newcomers.

MUSEUMS ARMY MUSEUM Dozens of artifacts reflecting Atlantic Canada’s military heritage, located in the Cavalier Building of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site. W. Open daily May 7–Oct. 31, off-season by appointment. Admission included with entrance fee to Halifax Citadel. Visit: two hours. 902-422-5979. armymuseumhalifax.ca BLACK CULTURAL CENTRE FOR NOVA SCOTIA This museum, cultural, and education centre is dedicated to the preservation and promotion of African-Canadian history in Nova Scotia. The centre houses history archives, static and audio-visual displays, a library, and an amphitheatre for cultural performances and lectures. Self-guided tours. Gift shop. Open Monday–Friday, 10am–4pm; noon–4pm on Saturday. Admission charged. W. 1149 Main St., Dartmouth. 902-434-6223 or 800-465-0767. bccns.com CANADIAN MUSEUM OF IMMIGRATION AT PIER 21 Discover Canada’s ongoing immigration story at this former gateway to Canada. Interactive exhibits, first-person stories, and hands-on activities. Admission charged. Family-history centre, permanent and visiting exhibitions, and gift shop. Minimum two-hour visit. Guided tours. Open year-round. Admission charged, group rates. 1055 Marginal Rd. 902-425-7770. pier21.ca

COLE HARBOUR HERITAGE FARM MUSEUM An original 200-year-old farm now surrounded by modern development this rural oasis in the city features traditional farm animals, heritage buildings, farm equipment and household tools from the community, gardens, and walking paths. Tea room and gift shop on site. Open May 15–Oct 15., Monday–Saturday, 10am–4pm; Sunday and holidays, noon–4pm. Tearoom on site. Museum services available by appointment year-round, including inquiries, tours, and events. Admission by donation. 471 Poplar Dr., Cole Harbour. 902-434-0222. coleharbourfarmmuseum.ca DARTMOUTH HERITAGE MUSEUM In Evergreen House, a 15-minute walk from the Halifax Transit ferry terminal in Dartmouth. Built in 1867, this Victorian home was frequented by Joseph Howe and was home to nationally acclaimed Nova Scotian folklorist Helen Creighton. Archival reference service by appointment. Open year-round, Tuesday–Saturday 10am–5pm. (Closed 1–2pm Saturday). See website for offseason hours. Admission by donation (Members and children under 12 are free). Group rates. Gift shop. 26 Newcastle St., Dartmouth. 902-464-2300. dartmouthheritagemuseum.ns.ca FISHERMAN’S LIFE MUSEUM This tiny house and gardens have been preserved just as they were at the turn of the century when this was the home of an inshore fisherman, his wife, and their 13 daughters. There’s always a knowledgeable guide ready to share stories of days gone by. Open daily June 1–Oct. 1, 8am–4pm. Parking, picnic tables, washrooms on site. Bus tours welcome. Admission charged. 58 Navy Pool Loop, Jeddore Oyster Pond. 902-889-2053. fishermans life. novascotia.ca OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

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THE ESSENTIAL CITY

HMCS SACKVILLE The last of its kind, this Flower-class corvette escorted convoys from Canada to Northern Ireland from 1942 to 1944. After years as a research vessel and naval auxiliary, Sackville was transferred to the Canadian Naval Memorial Trust in the 1980s, restored to its 1944 appearance, and dedicated as Canada’s National Naval Memorial. Berthed off-season in the Naval Dockyard; check website for visitation details. 902-427-2837. hmcssackville.ca MARITIME MUSEUM OF THE ATLANTIC Permanent major exhibits include Titanic: The Unsinkable Ship and Halifax, Shipwreck Treasures of Nova Scotia, Halifax Wrecked: The Story of the Halifax Explosion, North Atlantic Convoys, and the Navy Gallery (featuring a rare Victoria Cross medal). Also galleries on Days of Sail and Small Craft. Gift shop. Visit: 90 minutes. Open year-round. Admission charged (free Tuesday 5pm–8pm). W. 1675 Lower Water St. 902-424-7491. maritimemuseum.novascotia.ca

OCEAN EXPLORER

MEMORY LANE HERITAGE VILLAGE “Living history” museum captures the sights and sounds of a typical 1940s Nova Scotian coastal village. The 18 restored buildings include a general store, church, homestead, barn, ice house, gold mine, and boat-building shop. Traditional lumber camp cookhouse serves meals daily. Antique vehicles, farm animals, mobile media exhibits, and Archives Research Centre on-site (by appointment). Gift shop, public washrooms, free Wi-Fi. French and German spoken. Open off-season by appointment. Admission charged. Senior and group discounts. Children under 5 free. A 50-minute drive east of Halifax. 5435 Clam Harbour Rd., Lake Charlotte. 902-845-1937 or 877-287-0697. heritagevillage.ca MUSQUODOBOIT HARBOUR RAILWAY MUSEUM Housed in the former railway station (circa 1918) and several railway cars, the museum traces the history of the railway and its importance to the development of this region. Hours vary— call to confirm. A 40-kilometre drive east of Dartmouth on Hwy. 7, near the junction of Hwy. 357. Musquodoboit Harbour. 902-889-2689. mhrailwaymuseum.com NAVAL MUSEUM OF HALIFAX Admiralty House, a National Historic Site built in 1819, boasts a library of more than 5,000 volumes, archives, and a permanent collection displaying historical artifacts, including model ships, weapons, photos, and medals. Exhibits include The Great War, Battle of the Atlantic, and Halifax Explosion. Open Monday–Friday, 9am–4pm. Closed on holidays. Admission by donation. Gift shop. Admiralty House, 2725 Gottingen St. 902-721-8250. hmhps.ca/sites/admiralty-house-naval-museum

Discover our rich seafaring heritage at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic (above) on Lower Water Street. EC8

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PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA/SCOTT MUNN

FULTZ HOUSE MUSEUM Located in a house dating back to the 1860s, the museum shares the history of Lower Sackville and neighbouring communities. Check out the smithy, cooperage shop, and horse-drawn hearse (circa 1855). Gift shop. Open by appointment year-round. No admission fee (except for special functions), donations welcome. Gift shop. 33 Sackville Dr., Lower Sackville. 902-865-3794. fultzhouse.ca

THE MORE YOU KNOW

PHOTO: RILEY SMITH

The Discovery Centre on Lower Water Street offers hands-on science for kids.

NOVA SCOTIA ARCHIVES Records of government departments and corporate bodies (churches, businesses, organizations, etc.); papers of families; a 50,000-title library; newspapers; genealogical sources; documentary art and photographs; maps and architectural plans; sound recordings and moving images. Open Monday–Friday 8:30am–4:30pm (Wednesday until 9pm); Saturday 9am–5pm. Closed Sundays, holidays, and holiday weekends. Pre-booking required for some services on Wednesday evening and Saturday. Closed on holiday weekends. 6016 University Ave. 902-424-6060. archives.novascotia.ca NOVA SCOTIA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY Explore Nova Scotia’s forest and ocean environments with interactive exhibits, featuring world-class fossils, specimens, and artifacts. See exquisite First Nations Mi’kmaw porcupine quillwork. Visit Sable Island and experience Science on a Sphere. Live amphibians, reptiles, bees, a tide tank, and of course Gus, the nine-decades-old tortoise. Picnic area, parking (pay). Open year-round, 9am–5pm, Wednesday 9am–8pm. Admission charged. Visit: one–two hours. Admission charged. 1747 Summer St. 902-424-6548. naturalhistory.novascotia.ca NOVA SCOTIA SPORT HALL OF FAME Nova Scotia’s rich sports heritage is displayed through artifacts, exhibits, and stories dating back to the 1850s with emphasis on “our sport heroes” Sidney Crosby exhibition. Free admission. Open yearround, Monday–Friday, 10am–5pm and before Scotiabank Centre events. Scotiabank Centre (box office level), 1800 Argyle St., Suite 446. 902-421-1266. nsshf.com

SCOTT MANOR HOUSE Historic house (circa 1770) unique in Canada. The museum has a large collection of photos, printed material, and maps reflecting Bedford’s past. Open offseason by appointment. Free admission. 15 Fort Sackville Rd., Bedford. 902-832-2336. scottmanor.ca SHEARWATER AVIATION MUSEUM Spotlights Canada’s maritime military aviation history. Hours vary seasonally, so phone ahead. Duration of visit: one hour. Open year-round. 34 Bonaventure Ave., 12 Wing Shearwater (take Rte. 322 toward Eastern Passage). 902-720-1083. shearwateraviationmuseum.ns.ca

SCIENCE CENTRES

BEDFORD INSTITUTE OF OCEANOGRAPHY Canada’s largest oceanographic research centre. The Titanic exhibit boasts a model of what the wreck now looks like on the ocean floor and images from the 1991 expedition. Learn about seafloor mapping, take a virtual reality tour of the Sable Gully, meet the grey seals of Sable Island, and discover deep-sea corals. Guided tours by appointment only. 1 Challenger Dr., Dartmouth. 902-426-2373. bio.gc.ca DISCOVERY CENTRE Hands-on science centre. Kids can learn about science, technology, engineering, arts, and math through interactive displays. Changing exhibits, themed galleries, an innovation lab, and Atlantic Canada’s only immersive dome theatre. Open daily. Admission charged. 1215 Lower Water St. 902-492-4422. thediscoverycentre.ca

OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

where.ca EC9

ADVERTISING

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

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1549 Lower Water Street, Halifax 1549 Lower Water Street, Halifax 10 www.waterfrontwarehouse.ca 902-425-7610 www.waterfrontwarehouse.ca

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Points of Interest 1 World Peace Pavilion 2 Geary Lookoff 3 Halifax Citadel National Historic Site and Army Museum 4 Old Town Clock 5a Scotiabank Centre 5b Nova Centre/Halifax Convention Centre 6 Historic Properties Privateer’s Wharf 7 Province House 8 Public Gardens 9 Shubenacadie Canal 10 Alexander Keith’s Nova Scotia Brewery 11 Casino Nova Scotia 12 Cruise Ship Pavilion 13 Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 14 Bishop’s Landing 15 Dartmouth Common 16 Halifax Common 17 NovaScotian Crystal 18 Hydrostone District 19 Halifax Central Library

Galleries & Museums 20 Art Gallery of Nova Scotia 21 Dartmouth Heritage Museum 22 Naval Museum of Halifax 23 Maritime Museum of the Atlantic 24 Museum of Natural History

25 Discovery Centre 26 Quaker House

Transportation Terminals 27 Maritime Bus Terminal / Via Rail 28 Halifax Transit Ferry Terminal 28a Alderney Landing

Hospitals 29 Dartmouth General 30 IWK Health Centre (Maternity) 31 IWK Health Centre (Children) 32 Nova Scotia Hospital 33 Queen Elizabeth II Health Sciences Centre (QEII) Camp Hill, Veterans’ Memorial, Abbie J. Lane 34 QEII Halifax Infirmary 35 QEII Rehabilitation Centre 36 QEII Victoria General

Colleges & Universities 37 Dalhousie University 38 University of King’s College 39 Mount St. Vincent University 40 NSCAD University 41 Saint Mary’s University

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THE ESSENTIAL CITY

DESTINATION CANADA

fine yarns, tools and fibre for knitting, spinning, felting and crochet in historic downtown Halifax 1557 Barrington Street (902) 429-5667 theloophalifax.ca

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MAY 2018â&#x20AC;&#x201C;OCTOBER 2018 //

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ADVERTISING

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Experience One of a Kind The Spring Garden area is home to more than 200 retail shops. Here you’ll find a world of goods from clothing and home décor to jewellery, gifts and more. With extensive dining options, you can enjoy traditional favourites, ethnic fare, and breakfast selections at trendy bistros, restaurants, and cafés! You’re never far from one of a kind in the Spring Garden Area.

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EC20 where.ca ////OCTOBER MAY 2018–OCTOBER EC2 where.ca 2016–APRIL 2017 2018

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THE ESSENTIAL CITY

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MAY 2018–OCTOBER OCTOBER 2016 –APRIL 2018 2017 ////

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Historic Properties is a designated National Historic Site Historic Properties is a of designated National Historic Site in the heart downtown Halifax. in the of downtown Halifax. Open 7 days a week andheart located directly on the waterfront boardwalk. Open 7 days a week and located directly on the waterfront boardwalk. Where the past is always present. Where the past is always present. 1869 Upper Water St., Halifax, NS | www.historicproperties.ca | 1869 Upper Water St., Halifax, NS | www.historicproperties.ca |

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Award-winning sex shop 1598 Barrington St. 902-422-0004 www.venusenvy.ca

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ARTIST CO-OPERATIVE Open Daily | 10am–6pm

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1274 Hollis Street, Halifax, NS 902-446-4077 Martello St. www.art1274hollis.ca

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SHOPPING

EXTRA, EXTRA!

Atlantic News (below) on Queen Street is a haven for magazine lovers and news junkies, boasting titles from around the globe.

ANTIQUES

BELLISSIMO Selection includes hand-painted silk lighting, glass chandeliers, vintage lighting, Riedel crystal, and glassware, plus European-inspired home furnishings and accessories. Shipping available. Open Tuesday–Saturday, 10am–5pm; Sunday, 12pm– 5pm. 2743 Agricola St. 902-423-6014. bellissimoliving.com FINER THINGS ANTIQUES & CURIOS Carries high-quality furniture and decorative artwork. Appraisal and selling services available. 6438 Quinpool Rd., Halifax. 902-456-1412. finerthingsantiques.com HAPPYNEST ANTIQUES & VINTAGE Quaint little shop offering an eclectic range of unique items, with prices to suit any budget. Photos, folk art, jewelry, and memorabilia of all sorts. 2592 Elm St. 902-817-7616.

BOOKS & NEWSSTANDS

ATLANTIC NEWS Magazines and newspapers from across the region and around the world. Same-day editions of 2,000 newspapers from over 90 countries. The satellite newspapers are copyright editions sent directly from publishers. 5560 Morris St. 902-429-5468. atlanticnews.ns.ca Map 1 BOOKMARK Atlantic Canada’s largest independent bookseller: best-sellers, local works, travel books, unique gifts, and more. Open daily. 5686 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-0419. bookmarkreads.ca MAPS & MORE Carries all manner of maps, including antiques, reproductions, city maps, travel guides, road atlases, nautical charts, and lots of other travel accessories. Open daily, 10am–6pm. 1601 Lower Water St. 902-422-7106. 50 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

VENUS ENVY Education-oriented bookstore and sex shop. Large selection features feminist, queer, and left-leaning books and magazines in many genres. An array of adult accessories, sex toys, and movies. 1598 Barrington St. 1-877-370-9288. venusenvy.ca Map 1

WOOZLES CHILDREN’S BOOKSTORE Carries books, music, and toys, as well as lots of information on parenting. Books range from babies to senior readers and parents, plus toys from PlayMobil, puppets, costumes, and games. Open daily. 1533 Birmingham St. 902-423-7626. woozles.com

CLOTHING

BRILLIANT CLOTHING BOUTIQUE Fabulous fashion finds ofgently worn clothing at amazing deals. Open Monday– Wednesday, 10am–5:30pm, Thursday and Friday, 10am–6pm, Saturday, 10am–5pm, closed Sunday. 1539 Birmingham St. 902-446-3662. thisisbrilliant.com COLWELL’S CLOTHING Fashion for men: business, casual, smart, and professional. Popular lines include Bugatchi, Jack Victor, Johnston & Murphy Shoes, Viyella, and 34 Heritage. Open Monday–Saturday 10am–6pm. Open Sundays May–December. 902-420-1222. 1869 Upper Water St., Historic Properties. colwellsclothing.com DUGGERS/D2 Fashion for urban men and women. Chic casual and club wear with labels by Hugo Boss, Diesel, Polo Ralph Lauren, Burberry, Fred Perry, Boss Orange, Miss Sixty, Jon Varvatos, and more. 5476 Spring Garden Rd., 902-425-2525. duggersfashion.com

ELLE MIO Bra-fitting boutique, plus lingerie, swimwear, and women's clothing. Premium brands such as Prima Donna, Marie Jo, Rosa Faia, and Fantasie. Open Monday–Saturday. 1496 Lower Water St. 902-453-0604. FOREIGN AFFAIR Contemporary boutique. Brands like Rag & Bone, Canada Goose, Sarah Pacini, Helmut Lang, Hugo Boss, Tibi, Diane Von Furstenberg, Theory, Smythe, Vince, Wildfox, House of Harlow, Rebecca Minkoff, and Longchamp Paris. Denim selection includes J Brand, Hudson, Current/Elliott, Citizens of Humanity, 7 For All Mankind, and more. 5639 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-6676. foreignaffair.ca HALIKIDS Large store, packed with lots of toys, clothing, gifts, and games for kids. Just off Spring Garden Road. Open daily. 1445 South Park St. 902-429-8720. halikids.com THE HIDE COMPANY A large selection of leather jackets, coats, boots, and shoes. Custom jackets, repairs. International shipping. 121 Ilsley Ave., Dartmouth. 902-466-1100. IN A BOX Classic and modern curated gifts, jewelry and ladies’ clothing. Featuring Canadian and international designers. A stylish little department store for items of distinction at affordable prices. 902-423-8031. 1468 Dresden Row.

NORTHERN WATTERS KNITWEAR Hand-crafted wool sweaters, crafts, and tartan products. The only North American manufacturer of wool sweaters using unique antique Swiss looms. Open daily. Historic Properties, 1869 Upper Water St. 902-405-0488. nwknitwear.com OLSEN EUROPE Olsen is a leading European casual fashion brand, known for its modern classic styling, quality, and wide assortment of colors. Olsen manufactures its own clothing, with six designers working in Hamburg, Germany. 5657 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-0516. olseneurope.com PATAGONIA HALIFAX Outdoor and lifestyle apparel. Patagonia is the first manufacturer to use recycled plastic in performance apparel and exclusively uses organic cotton. The company donates 1% of sales to local environmental causes. 1496 Lower Water St. 902-422-2060. patagoniahalifax.ca Map 1 THE PERFECT FIT An alternative to traditional shopping, this consignment boutique offers modern and stylish clothing and accessories for women. Brands include Michael Kors, Coach, Lululemon, Club Monaco, Jones NY, Banana Republic, and Loft. Book a shopping party or bring in your designer labels for consignment. 1181 Bedford Highway, Bedford. 902-835-4436.

LISA DRADER-MURPHY BOUTIQUE Nova Scotia-made styles for women created by local designer Lisa Drader-Murphy; dresses, accessories. Historic Properties, 1869 Upper Water St. 902-429-4097. lisadradermurphy.com

PLAID PLACE Browse through tartans, sweaters, Scottish blankets, kilts, kilted skirts, Burns crystal, and cashmere. Highland dress sales and rental. Open Monday–Friday, 9:30am–5:30pm; Saturday 10am–5pm. Barrington Place Shops, 1903 Barrington St. 902-429-6872. plaidplace.com

THE LOST COD This clothing company specializes in producing unique Nova Scotian-based designs, celebrating the province’s industry. Available at Queen’s Landing Market on the Halifax Boardwalk until October, online year-round. 902-431-3101. thelostcod.com

ROOM 152 New and preloved consignment store in a bright downtown Dartmouth space. Find top labels and great prices in accessories, bags, wallets, shoes, boots, coats, jackets, and more. 152 Portland St., Dartmouth. 902-431-7660. room152boutique.com

NEW SCOTLAND CLOTHING Locally made and designed style. Hoodies, t-shirts, and tops for women, children, and men all branded with unique Nova Scotia logos. 102 Portland St., Dartmouth; Historic Properties, Halifax; and Halifax Stanfield International Airport. newscotlandclothing.ca

SAMUEL & CO. With a downtown boutique feel in the mall, Samuel & Co. offers casual, career, and evening wear for women. Park Lane Mall, 5657 Spring Garden Rd.: 902-421-2632; Halifax Shopping Centre, 7001 Mumford Rd.: 902-453-6208; and Mic Mac Mall, Dartmouth: 902-469-1737. samuelandco.ca

FASHION FIRST

With locations around Halifax, Samuel & Co. (above), offers a variety of styles for women, from casual to evening wear. OCTOBER 2019

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SHOPPING SWEET PEA BOUTIQUE Halifax’s trendiest dress shop. Large selection of one-of-a-kind dresses for all seasons. Accessories include shoes, jewelry, and hair pieces. 1542 Queen St. 902-423-0975. sweetpeaboutique.tumblr.com TAKE IT OUTSIDE Offers top brands in apparel, accessories, and more for the outdoor adventurer. 196 Hector Gate, Dartmouth: 902-405-8688. takeitoutside.ca VALUE VILLAGE Thrift store offering vintage and secondhand clothing in a variety of styles. In the former Ashley furniture store in Bayer’s Lake. Free parking. 165 Chain Lake Dr. 902-450-5134. valuevillage.com WILDFLOWER CLOTHING INC. Bright, cheerful boutique. Offers the trendiest new looks with clothing and accessories from lines like Paige Denim, Fidelity Denim, Free People, Line, Mimi & Marge Jewelery, and Biko Jewelry. Also offers baby gifts. 5431 Doyle St. 902-420-0364. wildflowerclothing.com

CRAFTS

AGNS GALLERY SHOP Folk art, jewelry, sculpture, pottery, textiles, woodwork, Mi’Kmaw handcrafts, original prints, and more. Features the full Maud Lewis Collection: printed materials in reproduction prints, books, cards, etc. Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, 1723 Hollis St. 902-424-4303. ART ZONE GALLERY This new gallery supports the growth of emerging artists by providing an ongoing venue for exhibitions. Located in the Historic Colwell Building. Hosts group and solo exhibitions, workshops, and contests, partnering with established artists to facilitate the exchange of knowledge and practical skills within the art community. 1673 Barrington St. 902-420-0800. artzone-gallery.ca

DULY NOTED STATIONARY Boutique stationary shop specializing in couture stationary, including greeting cards, custom wedding invitations, gift tags, wrapping paper, and more. 5431 Doyle St. 902-446-5605. dulynoted.ca INKWELL MODERN HANDMADE BOUTIQUE & LETTERPRESS STUDIO Handmade limited-edition paper goods, tea towels, pottery, and jewelry by local and international artists. Letterpress printing and custom design services of social stationery. 2011 Brunswick St. 902-405-8309. inkwellboutique.ca Map 1 JENNIFER’S OF NOVA SCOTIA Works by more than 143 Nova Scotia craftspeople. From pottery and pewter to woolens and woodwork, handcrafted jewelry to Nova Scotia tartan items and clothing accessories, the selection is vast. 5635 Spring Garden Rd. 902-425-3119. Map 1 LK YARNS INC. Nestled in a historic neighbourhood, this shop offers yarn and knitting supplies, including locally hand-dyed yarns and brands from around the world. Get expert knitting advice. The Hydrostone Market, 5545 Young St. 902-431-9633. lkyarns.com THE LOOP Fine yarns and tools for knitting and crochet. Broad selection of local yarns and craft kits. Open Monday–Saturday, 10am–6pm Sunday, noon–5pm. 1557 Barrington St., 902-429-5667. theloophalifax.ca MADE IN THE MARITIMES ARTISAN BOUTIQUE Curated shop featuring contemporary art-and-craft wares produced in the Maritimes. Woodwork, toys, pottery, glass art, and more. Sunnyside Mall, 1595 Bedford Hwy. and the Hydrostone Market, 5527 Young St. madeinthemaritimes.com.

PHOTO: JEREMY TSANG

CARREFOUR ATLANTIC EMPORIUM Traditional handcrafts, original works of art and literature capture the discerning shopper at this eclectic showcase of one-of-a-kind buys from Atlantic Canada, the First Nations, and the Canadian North. Open daily. Privateers Wharf, Upper Water St. 902-423-2940.

DESIGNER CRAFT SHOP Works by juried members of the Nova Scotia Designer Craft Council. Quality handmade crafts of original design, including ceramics and textiles. 1061 Marginal Rd., Suite 140 (within the Centre for Craft, next to Pier 21 railcar). 902-492-2522. craft-design.ns.ca

STRIKING GOLD

In the stylish Hydrostone (page EC3) Market on Young Street, Liquid Gold (page 53) is a haven for local foodies, offering gourmet olive oil and vinegar from around the world. 52 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

TEICHERT GALLERY Contemporary Maritime fine art for rent and sale. Original art by over 180 artists with new works every two weeks. It’s an inexpensive way to support local artists. Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, 1723 Hollis St. 902-424-3087.

LIQUID ASSETS This boutique stocks local beer, cider, wine, and spirits. Open daily 7am–9pm. In departure lounge at Halifax Stanfield Airport. 1 Bell Blvd., Enfield. 902-873-2275. liquid-assets-of-nova-scotia.myshopify.com

FOOD & DRINK

LIQUID GOLD Unique store specializing in extra virgin olive oils and balsamic vinegars from around the world. The Hydrostone Market, 5525 Young St. 902-406-8809. allthingsolive.ca

BISHOP’S CELLAR Upscale wine, spirits, and beer store specializes in varieties and vintages you won’t find elsewhere in the province. Bishop’s Landing, 1475 Lower Water St. 902-490-2675. CLEARWATER Bring the taste of the Maritimes home. Seafood experts will pack fresh lobster and other seafood for travel, plus spices, condiments, lobster crackers, and other accessories. Halifax Stanfield International Airport: 902-873-4509. 757 Bedford Hwy.: 902-443-0333. shop.clearwater.ca FISHERMAN’S MARKET INTERNATIONAL INC. Selection includes live or boiled lobster, smoked salmon, mussels, scallops, clams, shrimp, oysters, crab, and halibut. Check out the fresh catches, daily specials, and imported species. Overnight shipping to most North American centres. 607 Bedford Hwy. 902-443-3474. FREAK LUNCHBOX Offers a variety of unique candies such as caffeinated peppermints and chocolate bars from the U.S. and U.K. Sunnyside Mall, 1595 Bedford Hwy., Bedford: 902-405-4052. 1729 Barrington St.: 902-420-9151. Map 1 GARRISON BEER STORE In the waterfront brewery. Find bottled beer, cans, growlers, and party kegs. Or put together a “Mixed 6” of your favourite flavours. 1149 Marginal Rd. 902-453-5343. garrisonbrewing.com

NSLC Alcohol retailer, with a broad selection of local wine, beer, and spirits, plus big-name favourites from around the globe. Multiple stores around the city. Nova Scotia’s official cannabis retailer carrying it in the city at the Clyde Street, Halifax and Portland Street, Dartmouth locations. 1-800-567-5874. mynslc.com PROPELLER BREWING Check out the latest craft beers and sodas plus beer gear, glasses, hats, hoodies, and more. Buy a growler, and you can fill up with one of Propeller’s regular beers or a seasonal creation. 2015 Gottingen St. and 617 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth. 902-422-7767. drinkpropeller.ca ROCKHEAD WINE & BEER MARKET This North End boutique boasts a broad selection of wines from around the world, plus an expansive craft-beer selection. 2651 Windsor St. 902-435-6945. rockhead.ca ROUSSEAU CHOCOLATIER Handmade chocolates using pure cocoa butter and natural flavours; no added fats or oils. The selection includes artisan chocolate bars, French-style macarons, and more, all made on-site. Open daily in summer, 10am–6pm. 5151 South St. 902-802-6463. rousseauchocolatier.ca Map 1

LINGERIE *

SWIMWEAR *

SHAPEWEAR *

MASTECTOMY PRODUCTS *

HOSIERY 1496 Lower Water St., Halifax 902-453-0604 .E Q OCTOBER 2019

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SHOPPING

THE WAY WE WERE

Downtown on the Halifax Waterfront, the Historic Properties (page EC3) district is home to unique shops and restaurants. RUM RUNNERS Rum cakes with all natural ingredients—butter, flour, sugar, and rum (and lots of it). All cakes contain rum or whiskey from Glenora Distilleries on Cape Breton Island. Bishop’s Landing, 1479 Lower Water St. 902-421-6079.

DRALA BOOKS & GIFTS Unique gifts that pack and travel easily, from local talents and artisans; cards, journals, specialty teas. Open weekdays 10:30am–5:30pm; Saturday–5pm. 1567 Grafton St. 902-422-2504. drala.ca Map 1

SUGAH Hand-crafted confections and ice cream treats using traditional techniques and simple ingredients. Bishop’s Landing, 1475 Lower Water St. 902-423-8508. theuncommongroup.com

THE IKEBANA SHOP Celebrating the art of flower arranging (supplies, accessories, lessons) and all things Japanese. Gifts, décor, art, and more. 6417 Quinpool Rd. 902-407-0487. theikebanashop.com

SUSIE’S SHORTBREADS Specializing in cupcakes, whoopie pies, cookies, candy, frozen treats, and an assortment of cakes for birthdays, weddings, and more. 1589 Dresden Row, 218 Chain Lake Dr., and 1949 Upper Water St. 902-406-7075. susiesshortbreads.com

KEPT GIFTS AND HOUSEWARES A curated collection of local, handmade design-savvy and unique items. This cozy, independent boutique boasts a friendly, knowledgable staff. Open daily. 75 King St., Dartmouth. 902-469-5378. keptshop.ca

SWEET JANE’S GIFT & CONFECTIONARY From the whimsy of a lunch box filled with bubble gum to a collection of the most exquisite high-end chocolate confections, Sweet Jane’s has something for every occasion. Corner of Queen and Morris streets. 902-425-0168. sweetjanes.com Map 1

GIFTS & COLLECTIBLES

AMOS PEWTER Handcrafted pewter, featuring jewelry, home décor items, collectibles, and more. See how molten pewter is cast and be part of a hands-on experience. 1521 Lower Water St. 1-800-565-3369. amospewter.com COOL AS A MOOSE Located across from the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. Cool As A Moose custom clothing including t-shirts, caps, and sweats. Souvenirs and giftware. 1869 Upper Water St. 902-423-5168. coolasamoose.com

MAKING CONNECTIONS

MURPHY’S COMPANY STORE Memento hunters will find handicrafts from Nova Scotian artists, gifts, t-shirts, Anne of Green Gables collectibles, nautical items, and souvenirs. Open daily, 9:30am–5p.m. Cable Wharf, 1751 Lower Water St. 902-420-1015. mtcw.ca MY MOTHER’S BLOOMERS Floral and giftware shop with fresh flowers for every season. Custom arrangements available for weddings and other events. Spring Garden Place Mall (upper level), 2086 Creighton St. 902-422-2700. mymothersbloomers.ca POSH Funky things for fussy people. Thoughtfully curated shop carries Canadian-made products at affordable prices, including works by many local artisans. Historic Properties, 1869 Upper Water St. 902-425-3134. Pop-up location at Pier 22. historicproperties.ca/its-posh

Travelling on a budget? Halifax Transit (page EC2) offers an inexpensive connection to the airport via MetroX Route 320. Call 311 for details. 54 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

PIER 21 GIFT SHOP Products from around the world: jewelry, Tilley hats, Thomas Kinkade collectibles, Inuit carvings, books, handcrafted pewter, glass, and ceramics. Pier 21, 1055 Marginal Rd. 902-425-7770. pier21.ca SCHOLAR’S CHOICE Educational supplies and toys, featuring brand names such as Lamaze, Thomas, Playmobil, Carson Dellosa, Trend, and Frank Schaeffer. Mic Mac Mall, 21 Micmac Blvd., Dartmouth. 902-466-1611. STRANGE ADVENTURES: COMIX & CURIOSITIES More than comics, graphic novels, and manga—hailed as “Canada’s Best Comic Shop.” Unique gifts. 5110 Prince St., Halifax. 101 Portland St., Dartmouth. 902-425-2140 or 1-866-6-COMICS. strangeadventures.com Map 1

HOME & GARDEN

31 WESTGATE Showroom and design company and Atlantic Canadian carrier of exclusive brands such as Ralph Lauren. Furniture, lighting, décor, and more. 5431 Doyle St. 902-457-3131. 31westgate.com PANACHE LUXURY LINENS A boutique in Halifax’s trendy North End whose motto is the “luxury of rest.” Sells linens, spa and beauty products, decorative accents. 3132 Isleville St., Halifax. panacheluxurylinens.ca THORNBLOOM—THE INSPIRED HOME Home décor store with top-quality items in bedding, furniture, lighting, kitchen items, and giftware. 1459 South Park St. 902-425-8005. thornbloom.com

JEWELRY

CHARM DIAMOND CENTRE Canada’s largest family-owned jewelry company. Offering fine jewelry, with an emphasis on service, quality, and value. Halifax Shopping Centre, 7001 Mumford Rd. 902-455-0168. charmdiamondcentres.com OCTOBER 2019

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SHOPPING

LOCAL HARVEST

The Alderney Landing Farmers' Market (below) is open every weekend, offering all manner of local produce and baked goods

FIREWORKS GALLERY Old World designs meet New World techniques. Custom designs by in-house goldsmiths are the specialty, plus jewelry from Canadian, American, and Italian designers. 1569 Barrington St. 1-800-720-GEMS.

HALIFAX SEAPORT FARMERS’ MARKET Billed as Canada’s oldest. Open Wednesday and Friday–Sunday. Crafts, cuisine, and produce from across the province. 1209 Marginal Rd. halifaxfarmersmarket.com

FRIDA JEWELLERY Destination boutique boasting distinctive fine jewelry. Unique and custom pieces by Canadian and European designers. Bishop’s Landing, 1477 Lower Water St. 902-492-2947. frida.ca

HISTORIC FARMERS’ MARKET Stroll through courtyards and hallways of a 200-year-old granite and ironstone heritage building. Meet local small-scale farmers and artisans selling a range of goods and tasty treats in this historic market setting. Saturdays 7am–1pm. 1496 Lower Water St. 902-492-8772 historicfarmersmarket.ca

JAMES BRADSHAW, GOLDSMITH Elegance in simplicity best describes Bradshaw’s approach to designing contemporary jewelry. 1551 Birmingham St. 902-425-0121. PANDORA @ MIC MAC MALL Pandora’s eponymous jewelry designs include earrings, charm bracelets, necklaces, rings, watches, and more. Mic Mac Mall, 21 Mic Mac Blvd., Dartmouth. 902-405-4616. pandora.net PEARL CITY Specializes in pearl jewelry, including necklaces, bracelets, custom jewelry, and more. Top craftsmanship, great prices. Bishop’s Landing. 1475 Lower Water St. 902-420-0450. TOUCH OF GOLD Locally owned. Extensive collection of engagement rings, jewelry in Italian gold and sterling silver, and Swiss watches (including Rolex, Tag Heuer, Montblanc, and Swiss Army). 5640 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-5600.

MARKETS

ALDERNEY LANDING FARMERS’ MARKET Locally produced goods available every weekend from a variety of vendors offering local produce, home-style baked goods, and more. Where the Halifax Transit ferry docks. Live music. Open Saturday 8am–1pm, Sunday 11am–3pm. alderneylanding.com/market

ARTISTIC TOUCH

HISTORIC PROPERTIES A network of interconnected heritage buildings—shopping, dining, and nightlife. Open daily. Upper Water St., north from Duke St. 902-422-3077. historicproperties.ca

MUSIC

HALIFAX FOLKLORE CENTRE A selection of vintage guitars and violins. New and used musical instruments— mandolins, banjos, amps, basses, ukuleles, and bodhrans. 1528 Brunswick St. 902-422-6350. halifaxfolklorecentre.com TAZ RECORDS A mainstay for music lovers for 25 years, Taz boasts over 35,000 LPs, 10,000 CDs, and 30,000 seven-inch singles, spanning the whole musical spectrum. 1521 Grafton St., 1270 Bedford Hwy. 902-422-5976. tazrecords.com Map 1

OUTFITTERS

BASS PRO SHOPS Just opened last autumn, this outdoor-living superstore offers a huge range of hunting, fishing, camping, and recreation products. Offers Outdoor Skills Workshops. 50 Cabela Rd., Dartmouth. 902-417-1800. basspro.com

Discover Nova Scotia's rich artistic heritage at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia (page 23) on Hollis Street. It boasts folk, contemporary, and historic works in a variety of media. 56 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

MEC With a $5 lifetime membership, this co-op chain offers a huge variety of durable and lightweight clothing and equipment for outdoor adventures. Popular brands include Prana, Black Diamond, and Patagonia. 1550 Granville St. 902-421-2667. mec.ca

SHOES

JOHN DAVID SHOES One of the largest selections of women’s fashion footwear east of Montreal. The selection includes many exclusive brand names, such as France Mode fashion designer boots made in France. Open Monday–Wednesday and Saturday, 9:30am–6pm; Thursday and Friday, 9:30am to 9pm; Sunday, noon–5pm 5657 Spring Garden Rd. 902-422-8466.

SHOPPING CENTRES

BEDFORD PLACE Specialty shops and services. 1658 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-865-8381. bedfordplacemall.com DARTMOUTH CROSSING Over 90 stores—Banana Republic Factory Store, David’s Bridal, Marshalls, Golf Town, Tommy Hilfiger, Toys R Us/Babies R Us, Globo Shoes, and more. 34 Logiealmond Close, Dartmouth. dartmouthcrossing.com HALIFAX SHOPPING CENTRE Combined with the adjacent Halifax Shopping Centre Annex, home to more than 170 shops and services, including Apple, Victoria’s Secret, Hollister, Pier 1, and Levi’s. 7001 Mumford Rd. halifaxshoppingcentre.com

PARK LANE Specialty shops and services, cinema, and more. 5657 Spring Garden Rd. 902-420-0660. shopparklane.ca SCOTIA SQUARE MALL An anchor of the downtown shopping scene. Pedways connect it to many major hotels and entertainment venues such as the Scotiabank Centre. Corner of Duke and Barrington streets. 902-429-3660. SPRING GARDEN PLACE Small but chic, Spring Garden Place emphasizes style, home to unique shops and products that you won’t find elsewhere. 5640 Spring Garden Rd. 902-420-0675. SUNNYSIDE MALL Home to a wide variety of stores and services, including the landmark shop for food lovers, Pete’s Frootique. 1595 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-835-5099.

SPAS, SALONS & MASSAGES

BODY MENDS MASSAGE THERAPY Registered massage therapy services include deep tissue, hot stone, Swedish, and pregnancy massages. Second floor, 1725 Barrington St. 902-422-9809. bodymends.com INTERLUDE SPA Features a wide range of body treatments, aesthetic services, hair care, and specialized services. Halifax Marriot Harbourfront Hotel, 1919 Upper Water St. 58 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth: 902-469-2700.

MIC MAC MALL 160 stores, including Forever 21, Eddie Bauer, American Eagle, Bath & Bodyworks, H&M, Cinnabon, and Hudson’s Bay. 21 Micmac Blvd., Dartmouth. 902-466-2056. micmacmall.com

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DINING

MARITIME BOUNTY

In the heart of the downtown on Argyle Street, Five Fishermen (page 67) is a favourite with locals and visitors alike.

BAKERIES

BAGEL MONTREAL STYLE The city’s first and only maker of Montreal-style bagels, hand-rolled and baked in a wood-burning oven. Wide variety of bagel flavours, plus Jamaican patties, samosas, and pretzels. Open weekdays 6am–8pm; weekends 7am–6pm. 135 Wyse Rd., Dartmouth. 902-468-1212. bagelmontrealstyle.com JULIEN’S PATISSERIE BAKERY & CAFÉ One of Halifax’s most beloved cafés/bakeries, serving an array of fresh baked items, including almond croissants and a dozen bread varieties. The courtyard patio is understated and rustic, with simple pine tables. 5517 Young St. 902-455-9717. SMITH’S BAKERY & CAFÉ Halifax’s oldest independent bakery, offering breads, cakes, and other goodies baked on-site daily. Eat-in café serving breakfast and lunch, plus fresh-brewed coffee and cold drinks. Closing permanently on Aug. 10. 2525 Agricola St. 902-429-1393 smithsbakery.info

BARS & GRILLS

BAR KISMET New seafood- and cocktail-focused bar, emphasizing local ingredients on an ever-evolving menu. Mixologist Will Irvine recently won the regional finals of the North American Bacardi Legacy cocktail competition. 2733 Agricola St. 902-487-4319. barkismet.com BÂTON ROUGE RESTAURANT & BAR Ribs, steaks, chicken, seafood, and pasta, served with a Cajun twist. Seasonal patio in the heart of the Historic Properties. 1877 Hollis St. 902-407-0007. batonrougerestaurants.com BEARLY’S HOUSE OF BLUES Live blues every Thursday– Sunday, including a Sunday matinee and evening blues jam. Offers burgers, ribs, breakfast, and Philippine cuisine. Daily specials. 1269 Barrington St. 902-423-2526. bearlys.ca

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BUBBA RAY’S SPORTS BAR Lots of big screens to watch live sports. Varied pub-grub menu. Chicken wings are the house specialty: six varieties with 60+ different sauces. 7071 Bayer’s Rd. 902-406-1234. bubbarays.com EAST OF GRAFTON TAVERN Comfortable and stylish tavern in the heart of the entertainment district. Elevated comfort food at affordable prices; favourites include nachos, fish tacos, oysters, and other classics prepared in-house. Open daily for lunch and dinner, kitchen open until midnight on weekends. 1580 Argyle St. 902-428-5680. eastofgrafton.com HFX SPORTS BAR & GRILL With over 90 TV screens, including a two-storey behemoth, this is the place to watch the big game. The menu boasts an equally large array of snacks and hearty meals. 1721 Brunswick St. 902-404-1404. hfxsports.com JAMIESON’S IRISH-HOUSE & GRILL Recently renovated, this cozy pub boasts traditional food, a variety of craft beer, and a welcoming atmosphere. Daily Irish food specials feature dishes such as corned beef and cabbage, Guinness beef stew, and steak and kidney pie. 5 Cumberland Dr., Dartmouth. 902-433-0500. jamiesons.ca LAKESIDE BAR & GRILL Casual restaurant and bar with patio overlooking Chocolate Lake. Open dialy for lunch and dinner. Best Western Chocolate Lake Hotel, 250 St. Margaret’s Bay Rd. 902-477-5611. chocolatelakehotel.com THE LOCAL Locally sourced, internationally inspired menu; vegan options, stone-oven pizza. Craft beer and cider. Patio, billiards, ping-pong. Live music four nights per week. 2037 Gottingen St. 902-406-4255. facebook.com/thelocalhfx THE LOWER DECK BAR & GRILL The beloved waterfront pub exports its signature hospitality to Clayton Park. Seafood, burgers, wings, pasta, meatloaf, schnitzel, and more. Daily specials. Live music on weekends. 278 Lacewood Dr. 902-443-7024. lowerdeck.ca

MONTES SHOWBAR GRILL Casual bar serving burgers, pasta, sandwiches, weekend brunch. Live music on weekends. 245 Waverly Rd., Dartmouth. 902-435-1770. montes.ca THE PINT Friendly downtown bar with craft beer aplenty, and a menu featuring favourites like poutine, sliders, nachos, ribs, and tacos. Live sports. Daily specials, weekend brunch. 1575 Argyle St. 902-405-PINT. halifax.thepint.ca STAYNER’S WHARF PUB & GRILL High-quality pub food, including fresh seafood. Live jazz, featuring local and visiting acts. Open 11am to midnight. On the waterfront, next to the ferry terminal. 5075 George St. 902-492-1800. THE STUBBORN GOAT GASTROPUB Upscale comfort food featuring fresh produce and meat from local suppliers. Extensive list of craft beers and tasty cocktails and a weekend brunch menu. 1579 Grafton St. 902-405-4554. stubborngoat.ca TIMBER LOUNGE Lumberjack-themed bar serving local beer and hosting axe-throwing events. Watch the axe-citement from the bar through a Plexiglas window. Open Monday through Thursday, 4pm–1am; Friday and Saturday, 1pm–1am. 2710 Agricola St. 902-453-8627. timberlounge.ca.

BARBECUE

BEER BARS

THE AUCTION HOUSE Historic downtown building. Beer-centric menu showcasing local brews, plus cocktails and wine aplenty. Live entertainment. Open daily. 1726 Argyle St. 902-431-1726. auctionhousehalifax.com BATTERY PARK This hip beer bar’s menu includes local craft brew aplenty and tasting boards of charcuterie, fruits de mer, formaggio, and antipasti. Open Sunday–Wednesday, Thursday, 2pm–midnight; Friday and Saturday 2pm–1am. 62 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth. batterypark.ca GAHAN HOUSE The popular P.E.I. brewpub recently moved to a new location at the Nova Centre, serving locally made smallbatch beers. 5239 Sackville St. 902-444-3060. halifax.gahan.ca GOOD ROBOT BREWING House-made beers, collaborations with local home brewers, and guest brews. Flights, pints, bottles, cans, growlers. Tasting room, patio. 2736 Robie St. 902-446-1692. goodrobotbrewing.ca HOPYARD Halifax sibling to the popular P.E.I. spot known for local craft beer, food, and vinyl records. The locally sourced menu of sharing plates changes weekly. 2103 Gottingen St. 902-444-2467. hopyard.ca/halifax ROCKBOTTOM BREW PUB Diverse menu. Six different craft beers brewed on site. Also offers an extensive selection of wine and cocktails. 5686 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-2938. rockbottombrewpub.ca

UPSTREET BBQ BREWHOUSE A partnership between P.E.I. craft brewers Upstreet and local restaurateur Bill Pratt. Unique locallymade beers and a selection of barbecue classics, including Kansas-style ribs, brisket, and pulled pork. 612 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth. 902-407-4344. upstreetbbqbrewhouse.com

STILLWELL Showcasing craft beers from Nova Scotia’s flourishing craft brewing community and beyond, Stillwell pairs a dynamic beer list with Chef Graeme Ruppel’s artful small-plate snacks. A must-visit destination for beer lovers. 1672 Barrington St. 902-421-1672. barstillwell.com

PHOTOS: BRUCE MURRAY/VISIONFIRE

BONEHEADS BBQ Southern-style smokehouse serving sausage, wings, pulled pork, brisket, and other barbecue mainstays. Open Sunday–Thursday, 11am–9pm; Friday and Saturday to 10pm. 1014 Barrington St. 902-407-4100. lickthebone.com

PERFECT PAIRING

At Upstreet BBQ Brewhouse (above), restaurateur Bill Pratt pairs P.E.I. craft beer with slow-smoked barbecue classics. OCTOBER 2019

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DINING

BISTROS

BISTRO LE COQ French country cuisine. Duck confit salad, croque monsieur, escargot, a daily crêpe special, and steak frites. Weekend brunch. Open daily for lunch and dinner; kitchen. Open until 11pm on weekends. 1584 Argyle St. 902-407-4564. bistrocoq.ca CHIVES CANADIAN BISTRO Chefs and owners Craig Flinn and Darren Lewis draw heavily on their East Coast roots, classical training, and international experience, using fresh, local, and organic ingredients. Open daily, 5pm–9:30pm. 1537 Barrington St. 902-420-9626. ELLE'S BISTRO Canadian comfort food: all-day breakfast, burgers, sandwiches, plus fresh baked sweets. Open daily. 1678 Barrington St. 902-446-3775. ellesbistro.com LE BISTRO BY LIZ Halifax’s original French bistro, serving favourites like Crêpe Marocaine and the house specialty, lemon pie. 1333 South Park St. 902-423-8428. lebistrohalifax.com MAPPATURA BISTRO Honest food and lively moments. Aperitivo hour, local and European wines, homemade pastas, plus locally sourced seafood, meats, and produce. Italian inspired. Dine privately or at the communal table. Open Tuesday– Saturday for lunch, dinner, and brunch. Close to the Public Gardens. Reservations recommended. 5883 Spring Garden Rd. 902-407-5502. mappaturabistro.ca THE NARROWS BISTRO Chef Erwin Palo offers contemporary international cuisine in a casual bistro atmosphere. Open Monday–Friday 6:30am–10:30am and 5pm–10pm, weekends 7am–11am and 5pm–10pm. DoubleTree by Hilton Halifax Dartmouth, 101 Wyse Rd., Dartmouth. 902-463-1100. halifaxdartmouth.doubletreebyhilton.com

BURGERS

ACE BURGER COMPANY Specializing in high-quality burgers, including The Deluxe, rib burger, lamb burger, po’boys, and fries. Serving at Battery Park, 62 Ochterloney St. 902-446-2337 BOOMBURGERS Classic made-to-order burgers and fries, using beef and potatoes fresh from P.E.I. Open daily. 64 Dellridge Ln., Bedford. 902-491-2666. boomburger.ca CHEESE CURDS GOURMET BURGERS + POUTINERIE Gourmet beef, pork, salmon, lamb, veggie, and chicken burgers, plus poutine, onion rings, and hot dogs. Open Sunday to Thursday, 11am–9pm; Friday and Saturday, 11.a.m.–10pm; 380 Pleasant St., Dartmouth: 902-444-3446. 600 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth: 902-446-4400. 277 Lacewood Dr., Clayton Park: 902-450-0980. 507 Larry Uteck Blvd., Bedford: 902-835-7404. cheesecurdsburgers.com KRAVE BURGER Fast-casual burger joint boasting creative burgers and hot dogs, three varieties of macaroni and cheese, milkshakes, and more. Wash it down with a Krave Lager from local craft brewer Propeller. 5680 Spring Garden Rd. 902-407-5728. kraveburger.com RELISH GOURMET BURGERS Fun, casual restaurant features a range of gourmet burgers inspired by different people and places. Open daily. 6024 Quinpool Rd. 902-474-4152. relishhalifax.com

CAFÉS

ANNIE’S PLACE CAFÉ Relaxed atmosphere. All-day breakfast, plus many lunch items. Baked goods made fresh in-house. Catering available. Open daily 7am–2pm, Saturday 8am–2pm. 1592B Queen St. 902-420-0098. BIRD’S NEST CAFÉ Bird’s Nest Café is a recent expansion from local favourite Ciboulette Café, a tiny spot noted for its tasty sandwiches and soup. Now offers an expanded menu for breakfast and lunch, featuring fresh ingredients. Cozy atmosphere. 1547 Barrington St. 902-423-5282. birdsnesthalifax.com Map 1

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THE BOARD ROOM GAME CAFÉ Some 400 games to choose from, $5 cover to play as many as you like. “Game Bosses” on site to teach and recommend games. Craft beer on tap, espresso bar, and casual dining. Ages 19+ after 6pm. 1256 Barrington St. 902-423-7545. boardroomgames.ca Map 1 CAFÉ GOOD LUCK All-day brunch menu featuring eggs benny, towering breakfast sandwices, and fresh-baked goods. Mimosas and local beer. Open daily. 145 Portland St., Dartmouth. manualfoodanddrinkco.com/goodluck THE CANTEEN Gourmet sandwiches, classic French, Italian and traditional Nova Scotian cuisine, local wine and beer. Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and supper, for brunch on Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday. 22 Portland St., Dartmouth. 902-425-9272. thecanteen.ca COASTAL CAFÉ Breakfast creations like Belgian waffles and Huevos Rancheros. The lunch menu includes paninis, burgers, and daily soups and salads. Open Tuesday–Sunday for breakfast and lunch. 2731 Robie St. 902-405-4022. thecoastal.ca GLITTER BEAN CAFÉ Queer-friendly café offering organic fairtrade coffee, specialty drinks, snacks, and baked goods. Open weekdays 7am–6pm, weekends 10am–5pm. 5896 Spring Garden Rd. 902-407-5715. glitterbeancafe.com HUMANI-T CAFÉ Newly renovated: cozy fireplace, stone fountain and funky chairs. Near the Hydrostone Market. Live music on Friday nights with a free open-mic show. Free Wi-Fi. Baklava, cakes, cupcakes, muffins, cookies, cinnamon rolls baked fresh on-site. Open daily. 5755 Young St. 902-454-9999. humanitcafe.com JAVA BLEND Coffeehouse and craft coffee roaster in Halifax’s North End, specializing in globally sourced sustainable beans, offering coffee, drinks and other beverages and baked goods. 6027 North St. 902-423-6944. javablendcoffee.com THE MIDDLE SPOON If you’re the kind of person who skips straight to dessert, this is the spot for you—specializing in decadent desserts and cocktails. Open Monday–Saturday from 4pm. 1559 Barrington St.: 902-407-4002. 1595 Bedford Hwy (Sunnyside Mall), Bedford: 902-446-4082 THE NOOK Friendly café serving local java by day, hip cocktails and beer by night. The menu highlights all-day brunch, sandwiches, and baked goods. After-dark nibbles include nachos, dips, and vegetarian options. 2118 Gottingen St. 902-444-9889. thenookhfx.ca PORTLAND STREET CRÊPERIE Relaxed neighbourhood spot offering all manner of sweet and savoury crêpes. ranging from donair to Oreo cheesecake. Reclaimed-wood décor. Open daily. 55 Portland St., Dartmouth. 902-466-7686. portlandstreetcreperie.ca PAVIA ESPRESSO BAR & CAFÉ Two locations in the Halifax Central Library (on the first and fifth floors), offering locally roasted coffee, Italian espresso, gourmet paninis, and baked goods. Halifax Central Library, 5440 Spring Garden Rd. 902-407-4008. paviagallery.com STEVE-O-RENO’S CAPPUCCINO Locally roasted, ethically sourced coffee. Baked goods from scratch daily. Quick and fresh breakfasts and lunches. 1536 Brunswick St. 902-429-3034. steveorenos.com SWEET HEREAFTER Rich and luscious cheesecake. Dozens of flavours, with gluten-free and dairy-free options available. Catering service available. Open Monday–Wednesday noon–10pm and Thursday–Saturday noon–11pm. 6148 Quinpool Rd. 902-404-8001. sweethereafter.ca TWO IF BY SEA Gourmet coffee, loose tea, and hot drinks galore, plus fresh, quality pastries and desserts. The light, flaky, buttery croissants draw locals from every part of the city. Open daily. 66 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth: 902-469-0721. twoifbyseacafe.ca

TRIDENT BOOKSELLERS AND CAFÉ A coffeehouse, tea room, coffee roaster, and used bookstore in Halifax’s South End. Browse the shelves for used books or sit and enjoy specialty coffee drinks and pastries and loose tea, among the aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans. 1256 Hollis St. 902-423-7100. tridenthalifax.com

GREAT WALL Cantonese and Szechuan food in pleasant surroundings. Daily specials. Dim Sum on Sunday, from 11:30am–3pm. Free delivery downtown. Open Monday–Thursday and Sunday, 11:30am–10pm; Friday and Saturday to 11pm. 1649 Bedford Row. 902-422-6153.

UNCOMMON GROUNDS Gourmet coffee and tea; muffins, scones, cheesecakes, and other desserts baked on-site. Sandwiches and soups. 1030 South Park St.: 902-431-3124. 1237 Barrington St.: 902-404-7288.

9 + NINE CHINESE CUISINE Classically trained in Hong Kong, Chef Peter brings 45 years of culinary experience to this compact suburban dining room offering Chinese delicacies prepared in the traditional manner. Eat in or take out. Open Wednesday– Monday. 480 Parkland Dr. 902-431-7575. 9plus9.ca

WEIRD HARBOUR ESPRESSO BAR Espresso-based coffees and locally made baked goods. Open Monday–Friday 7am–6pm, weekends 8am–6pm. 1656 Barrington St. weirdharbour.com

CHINESE

CHEELIN Szechuan and Beijing cuisine. Buffet lunch on Tuesday and Friday. Lunch Monday–Saturday, 11:30am–2:30pm; dinner Monday–Sunday, 5pm–10pm Brewery Market, 1496 Lower Water St. (Also at Seaport Market.) 902-422-2252. cheelinrestaurant.ca CHI BISTRO Traditional breakfasts, crêpes, and light lunches meet reimagined Southern Chinese dishes and tapas-style small plates at this cozy spot with a summer patio. 5687 Charles St. 902-406-3133. chibistro.ca FAN’S CHINESE RESTAURANT A diverse Chinese menu. House specialties include Peking duck, Moo Shu pork, and Seafood in Bird Nest. Open daily. 451 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth. 902-469-9165. fansrestaurant.com

SHENG’S CHINESE RESTAURANT Szechuan, Cantonese, Chinese, and Thai cuisine. Make-your-own daily specials, plus lunch specials from $5.50, Monday–Friday. 6-362 Lacewood Dr. 902-446-3838. shengsrestaurant.ca

CONTEMPORARY CANADIAN

AGRICOLA STREET BRASSERIE Stylish stop featuring locally sourced, seasonal fare and housemade charcuterie alongside craft beer and a carefully curated wine list. Brunch Friday–Sunday. Suitable for intimate meals and large groups. Impressive roofttop patio. Monday–Saturday 4pm–12:30am. 2540 Agricola St. 902-446-7664. agricolastreet.ca THE ARMVIEW RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Long a beloved community diner, the Armview renovated a few years ago, now boasting stylish décor and a contemporary menu. The selection includes gourmet burgers, sandwiches, pasta, seafood, weekend brunch, and more. The Dagwood Sandwich is a local favourite. Open daily. 7156 Chebucto Rd. 902-455-4395. thearmview.com

Our favourite seafood? All of them. waterfrontwarehouse.ca

Irresistible Halifax Waterfront OCTOBER 2019

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DINING THE BICYCLE THIEF Offers “North American food with an Italian soul.” Cocktail/wine bar, harbour view. Bishop’s Landing, 1475 Lower Water St. 902-425-7993. bicyclethief.ca BROOKLYN WAREHOUSE With an ever-changing menu, this trendy neighbourhood spot showcases local and sustainable cuisine. Famous for its burgers. 2795 Windsor St. 902-446-8181. brooklynwarehouse.ca THE CARLETON Restaurant, bar, and entertainment venue offers upscale casual dining (with an array of wines and spirits) and showcases Nova Scotian and international talent. 1685 Argyle St. 902-422-6335. thecarleton.ca HARBOUR CITY BAR AND GRILL Modern hotel eatery preparing Canadian cuisine with locally sourced ingredients, plus a robust list of local craft beers, wines, and spirits. 1990 Barrington St. 902-492-6443. marriott.com PRIMAL KITCHEN Butchery inspired restaurant with a focus on sustainable local meats and craft beer. Local meats smoked, cured, and butchered in-house. One of Where Canada’s Best New Restaurants in Canada for 2015. Open Monday– Saturday, 11:30am–10pm. 1463 Brenton St. 902-429-3499. primalhfx.ca SEASONS BY ATLANTICA Fresh, local cuisine. Warm urban décor, views of Halifax Common and attentive service. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Atlantica Hotel Halifax, 1980 Robie St. 902-490-3331. seasonsbistro.com

DELIS

FOX HILL MARKET & DELI El Gallo Mexican cuisine, sandwiches, salads, all-day breakfast, and more. Open daily. 2760 Robie St. 902-407-1301.

DINERS

ARDMORE TEA ROOM Longstanding neighbourhood favourite. Hearty budget-friendly offerings like Thanksgiving poutine, meatloaf, burgers, lasagna, sandwiches, all-day breakfast, fish and chips. Cash only. Open daily, 5am–8pm. 6499 Quinpool Rd. 902-423-7523 BLUENOSE II RESTAURANT This downtown dining-style restaurant has been a local favourite since 1964. Seafood, Greek specialties, burgers, all-day breakfast. Daily specials. Open Monday–Thursday 7:30am–8:30 p.m, Friday 7:30am to 9pm, weekends 8am–9pm. 1824 Hollis St. 902-425-5092. bluenoseii.ca Map 1 DARRELL’S RESTAURANT A straightforward burger joint dishing up unique toppings for beef and veggie burgers, plus comfort food aplenty. 5576 Fenwick St. 902-492-2349. darrellsrestaurants.com THE ESQUIRE RESTAURANT Local favourite, known for hearty seafood chowder, old-school lobster sandwiches, and decadent pies. Open daily. 772 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-835-9033. esquirerestaurant.ca

PHOTO: DISCOVER HALIFAX

STORIES Inventive regional cuisine in intimate dining rooms. Chef Scott Vail has crafted a diverse menu selecting East Coast seafood, premium beef, and local game and lamb. The Halliburton, 5184 Morris St. 902-420-0658.

THE WOODEN MONKEY Dynamic menu showcasing local organic produce. Gourmet pizza, sandwiches and pasta, fresh seafood, creative desserts. Open daily. 1707 Grafton St.: 902-444-2844. Alderney Landing, Dartmouth: 902-466-3100. thewoodenmonkey.ca

OCEANIC EPICUREANS

In its new home at the Nova Centre on Sackville Street, the Gahan House (page 59) pairs craft beer and fresh Atlantic seafood. 62 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

ROBIE STREET STATION Serving all-day breakfast and brunch plus global comfort food specialties in a colourful and trendy diner atmosphere. 2394 Robie St. 902-423-2524 TRUE NORTH DINER Toss a few quarters in the jukebox and go back in time at this 1950s inspired eatery known for burgers, fries, and shakes. Bedford Place Mall, 1658 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-832-1950. truenorthdiner.com

FAMILY DINING

STUDIO EAST FOOD AND DRINK Tapas-inspired Asian fare with an East Coast flair, known for spicy meat sticks served with housemade dipping sauces. 6021 Cunard St. 902-449-9800. studioeastfood.ca

GREEK

ATHENS RESTAURANT Greek mainstays with an emphasis on classic dishes such as kleftiko lamb, moussaka, saganaki, and souvlaki. 6273 Quinpool Rd. 902-422-1595.

CORA Specializes in breakfast. Creative dishes with lots of fresh fruit. Crêpes, french toast, waffles, and eggs. Open Monday– Saturday, 6am–3pm; Sunday, 7am–3pm. Lunch from 11am. 1535 Dresden Row: 902-490-2672. 287 Lacewood Dr. 902-457-2672. 1475 Bedford Hwy., Unit 17, Bedford: 902-832-5252. 644 Portland St., Dartmouth: 902-433-0079. 16 Garland Ave., Dartmouth: 902-481-9685. chezcora.com

ELA GREEK TAVERNA Recommended by Anne Hardy’s Where to Eat in Canada for five consecutive years. Over 90 menu items, including steak and pasta. 215 Chain Lake Dr., Bayers Lake: 902-876-8899. 150 Hector Gate, Dartmouth Crossing: 902-481-7999. elagreektaverna.com

KEMPTSTER’S COOKHOUSE Expansive menu features 100+ homestyle favourites: barbecue chicken and ribs, steak, burgers, sandwiches, all-day breakfast, pasta, and much more. Two-forone specials Sunday–Wednesday. Open daily. 3644 Kempt Rd. 902-453-0236. kempsterscookhouse.ca

CURRY VILLAGE Indian cuisine in a comfortable setting. One of the “Top 100 Recommended Places to Eat in Canada.” Open for lunch Tuesday–Saturday; dinner daily. 1569 Dresden Row. 902-429-5010. curryvillage.ca

TOM’S FAMILY RESTAURANT Sandwiches, wraps, burgers, seafood, and family favourites like lasagna and turkey dinner. Open daily. 585 Sackville Dr., Lower Sackville. 902-252-8667 tomsfamilyrestaurant.ca

GLOBAL CUISINE

AFRITE An ever-changing menu of international flavours from Master Chef Canada contestant Andrew Al-Khouri. Small plates, sharing dishes, weekend brunch, Middle Eastern Mondays prix fixe menu. 1360 Lower Water St. afrite.ca BLACK SHEEP RESTAURANT Owned by its two chefs, this stylish spot emphasizes unpretentious dining with a focus on quality scratch-made cuisine. Small plates for sharing. Brunch until 4pm daily. Creative cocktails; local beer and cider; international wine list. Open daily. 1569 Dresden Row. 902-406-6856. blacksheephalifax.com CHKN CHOP ROTISSERIE Portuguese-style chicken joint, offering slow-cooked chicken and sides, plus sandwiches and poutine. Currently renovating after a fire; re-opening soon. 6041 North St. 902-406-0690. chknchop.com ELIOT & VINE European-influenced menu features favourites like pork belly with cheddar polenta, basil, and pistachio crusted lamb, and beef carpaccio. Ever-evolving wine list. Elegant and chic. Open Tuesday–Sunday from 5pm. 2305 Clifton St. 902-332-1557. eliotandvine.com GIO Global New Age cuisine: ingenious signature dishes and an extensive selection of wine and cocktails. The décor is modern and chic, offering contemporary comfort. Prince George Hotel, 1725 Market St. 902-425-1987. giohalifax.com HIGHWAYMAN RESTAURANT & BAR Simple yet stylish 40-seat dining room preparing Spanish-inspired entrées and small plates alongside hip cocktails and a curated wine and beer list. 1673 Barrington St. 902-407-5260. highwaymanhfx.com LITTLE OAK Intimate waterfront wine bar, offering an everchanging globally influenced menu showcasing seasonal ingredients. Expansive wine list and an ample selection of craft beer and cider. Happy Hour 4pm–6pm daily. Open Monday– Saturday. Bishop’s Landing, 1475 Lower Water St. littleoakbar.ca LOT SIX BAR AND RESTAURANT Inspired by the great bars of the world, Lot Six features a globally inspired small-plates menu, unique cocktails, whiskies, craft beers, and select wines. 1685 Argyle St. 902-428-7428. lotsix.ca

INDIAN

DHABA CASUAL FINE DINING & EXPRESS Fresh authentic Indian cuisine, including vegetable biyani, butter chicken, and goat curry. Weekend lunch buffets and daily lunch specials. 8 Oland Cres. 902-444-4411. dhaba-express.ca MIRCHI TANDOOR Authentic and time-tested Indian recipes, made with fresh ingredients. Highlights include slow-cooked Tandoor chicken, vegetable korma, and prawn curry. Open Tuesday–Sunday. 5232 Blowers St. 902-429-4647. mirchitandoor.ca RASA FLAVOURS OF INDIA A taste of the subcontinent in a refined atmosphere. Open daily. Free parking at City Centre Atlantic with $50 purchase. 1542 Birmingham St. 902-423-5995. rasarestaurant.ca

ITALIAN

CAFÉ CHIANTI Large selection of fresh seafood, pasta, veal, steak, lamb, and duck dishes. Eastern European specialties include homemade Hungarian paprika sausage. Open Mondayto Friday for lunch; daily for dinner. 1241 Barrington St. 902-423-7471. cafechianti.com DA MAURIZIO FINE DINING Known for impeccable service, extensive wine lists, and a celebrated northern Italian menu featuring calamari, gnocchi, lamb, and seafood. Brewery Market, 1496 Lower Water St. 902-423-0859. IL MERCATO Popular trattoria offering a casual European menu. Northern Italian dishes are the speciality—pizza, pasta, and sandwiches. The desserts alone are worth the visit. Sunnyside Mall, 1595 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-832-4531. IL TRULLO Sleek stylish dining room offers sweeping views of Halifax Harbour. Menu features a variety of authentic Southern Italian cuisine. The restaurant is named after a cone-shaped stone agriculture building in the owner’s native Puglia region in Italy. 902-461-2030, 102-67 King’s Wharf Place, Dartmouth. iltrullo.ca LA FRASCA CIBI & VINI Inspired by the rustic dishes of Friuli in Northern Italy. Authentic home-style dishes made to order by hand, with a passion for freshness and quality. Open Monday– Saturday. 5650 Spring Garden Rd. 902-422-2866. lafrasca.ca PIATTO PIZZERIA + ENOTECA Neapolitan-style pizza, the first VPN certified pizza in the Maritimes. Open daily. 5144 Morris St. 902-406-0909. piattopizzeria.com RINALDO’S New family-run spot, offering Italian-American favourites like eggplant parmesan, cavatelli and meatballs, hero sandwiches, and pizza aplenty. One of Where Canada’s Best New Restaurants in Canada. Open Tuesday–Sunday; weekend brunch. 2186 Windsor St. 902-425-0400. rinaldos.ca

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DINING RISTORANTE A MANO The menu features Italian specialties and gourmet pizzas. Open Monday–Saturday, 11:30am–10pm. 1477 Lower Water St. 902-423-6266. TOMAVINO’S Cozy, romantic atmosphere. Dining by candlelight. Pizza, pasta. Gluten-free crust and pasta. Delivery. Open daily. 1113 Marginal Rd. 902-425-9111. tomavinos.ca THE VINES PASTA GRILL Italian favourites with an emphasis on creative pasta. The take-out menu offers quick food to go, and Sundays feature a brunch buffet. Open 4pm–9pm Tuesday– Saturday, 11am–9pm Sunday. 4 Panavista Dr. 902-434-4114. vinespastagrill.com

JAPANESE

BUTA RAMEN Compact and moder locale for tonkotsu, tantanmen, and Nagasaki champon noodle soups. Open daily. 5190 Morris St. 902-422-0245. butaramen.ca FUJIYAMA Specializing in sushi and hibachi, this casual spot offers a wide variety of Japanese cuisine, with an extensive selection of sashimi and teriyaki dishes as well. Open daily. 5244 Blowers St. 902-492-1133. sushifujiyama.com KITSUNE FOOD CO. Takeout spot dishes up homestyle Japanese fare including seaweed salad, nigari and maki sushi, and handfolded pork and vegan dumplings. Check Facebook for hours. 5710 Young St. 902-406-5010. facebook.com/kitsunehalifax MOMOYA RESTAURANT Offering a broad range of Japanese dishes in a casual setting, including sushi, udon and soba noodles, tempura, and maki rolls. 1671 Barrington St. 902-492-0788.

SUSHI NAMI ROYALE Japanese fine dining with traditional and fusion sushi, plus exotic cocktails. The décor is modern with traditional accents. Open Monday–Saturday, 11:30am to midnight; Sunday, 4:30pm–11pm. 1458 Queen Street: 902-422-9020. 278 Lacewood Dr. 149 Hector Gate. sushinami.ca Map 1 TOKYO ROLL Relaxed spot for basic rolls, fusio rolls, bento boxes, and teriyaki. 1598 Argyle St. 902-425-8886. facebook.com/tokyorollhalifax

KOREAN

ARISU TABLE BBQ & SUSHI BAR Korean-Japanese fusion. Highlights include Korean KING Short Ribs, Japanese Wagyu Beef, Crispy Valentine Roll, and Surf & Turf Roll. Open Sunday to Thursday 11am–10pm, Friday and Saturday–11pm. W. 1645 Granville St. 902-420-1370. arisubbq.ca BACKOO’S KOREAN FOOD Laid-back locale dishing up a compact menu of Korean fried chicken, sides, and local beers. Open daily. 1358 Birmingham St. 902-423-2004. facebook.com/backoos

LEBANESE

MEZZA LEBANESE KITCHEN Quick-serve Lebanese cuisine: falafels, souvlaki, pountine, donairs, salads, shwarma, wraps. Open daily. 1558 Barrington St. 902-429-2929. Eight other locations around the city. mezzalebanesekitchen.com RAY’S ORIGINAL LEBANESE CUISINE Long one of the city’s favourite spots for tasty and inexpensive Lebanese fare: combo plates, all-day breakfast, grilled fish, classic Halifax donairs, and more. 120 Susie Lake Cres. 902-425-7297. rayslebanesecuisine.ca

the ultimate convenience

Fresh seafood packed for travel or delivered direct to your door

visit us online or at one of our locations: 757 Bedford Highway 902-443-0333 | 9am-7pm daily 64 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

Halifax Stanfield International Airport 902-873-4509 | 5am-8pm daily

By phone: 1-877-567-1117 shop.clearwater.ca

MEXICAN

ANTOJO TACO + TEQUILA Vibrant Mexican-inspired dishes and a wide selection of tequila and mezcal. Tacos, enchiladas, ceviche, and more. Open daily from 11:30am. 1667 Argyle St. 902-405-2790. antojo.ca BURRITO JAX Quick and casual spot offering freshly prepared Mexican food. Scratch-made burritos are the house specialty. Open Monday–Saturday. 5215 Blowers St. 902-406-0088. 3117 Kempt Rd. 902-404-7879. burritojax.com HABANEROS MODERN TACO BAR This quick and casual spot boasts modern Mexican cuisine with a twist, all featuring locally sourced ingredients. From the creators of the burger joint Cheese Curds. Unit B, 1551 South Park St. 380 Pleasant St., Dartmouth. 600 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth. habaneros.biz MEXICALI ROSA’S The California-style Mexican menu features sizzling fajitas. Take-out orders and party bookings available. Open daily. 5472 Spring Garden Rd. 902-422-7672. MEXICO LINDO Authentic Mexican. Casual setting. Burritos, chimichangas, tacos, hearty consome de pollo. Combination plates, gluten-free options. Open Tuesday–Saturday. 3635 Dutch Village Rd. mexicolindo.ca TACO LINA’S Inside Gus’ Pub. House-made flour and corn tortillas, tacos al pastor, Baja fish tacos, nachos and more. Open daily. 2605 Agricola St. facebook.com/tacolinas

NIGHTCLUBS & WINEBARS

THE BITTER END Wine and martini bar, tapas. Casual dining and spirits. Voted as makers of Halifax’s best martini and bloody caesar. 1572 Argyle St. 902-425-3039. thebitterend.ca

ECONOMY SHOE SHOP Check out The Backstage for a glass of wine or head to the Diamond and choose your own music on the juke box. Full menu till 11pm, tapas till 2am. Open from 11am–2am. 1663 Argyle St. 902-423-8845. MENZ & MOLLYZ Billed as an “all-inclusive LGTBQI community destination.” Karaoke, dancing, and drag shows. Vibrant, welcoming atmosphere. 2182 Gottingen St. 902-446-6969. menzbar.ca NICHE Supper club/lounge. The menu emphasizes tapas and international flavours. Variety is the hallmark of the wine list. Open daily. Maritime Centre. Corner of Spring Garden Rd. and Barrington St. 902-423-6632. OBLADEE A selection of wines paired with artisanal cheese and charcuterie. Some 30 wines available by the glass, 40 by the bottle. Open weekdays from 11:30am, and weekends from 4pm. 1600 Barrington St. 902-405-4505. obladee.ca TABOO NIGHTCLUB Chic nightclub offering private booths and attentive service. Packages include a host/hostess, private booth, complimentary admission, and coat check. 1735 Grafton St. 902-423-8226. taboonightclub.ca

PIZZA

BRAMOSO PIZZERIA & BEER BAR Hand-crafted brick-oven pizzas, including gluten-free, dairy-free, and vegan options. Signature creations include the Tuscan Sun (white sauce, hot banana peppers, pineapple, sundried tomatoes, green olives) and Lombardy’s Fire (smoked bacon, jalapeno, pineapple). Delivery and take-out. 6169 Quinpool Rd. 902-425-2222. bramoso.com

Taste it!

Breakfast and Lunch

Halifax, 1535 Dresden Row, Downtown Clayton Park, 277 Lacewood Drive, Halifax Bedford, 1475 Bedford Highway, Bedford Dartmouth, 644 Portland Street, Dartmouth Wright Avenue, 16 Garland Avenue, Dartmouth

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DINING FREEMAN’S Friendly neighbourhood spot, expanded from the mother ship on Quinpool Road to four dining rooms around the city. All-day breakfast, pizza, pasta, burgers, and ItalianAmerican favourites aplenty. Open daily. Delivery until late. 6092 Quinpool Rd.: 902-429-0241. 3671 Dutch Village Rd.: 902-445-5256. 1726 Grafton St.: 902-444-7008. 552 Sackville Dr., Lower Sackville. 902-865-2555. freemanspizza.ca LA PIAZZA RISTORANTE Casual neighbourhood spot boasting wood-oven pizza and a variety of Italian entrées. Private party room. Open daily. 6430 Chebucto Rd. 902-404-5885. lapiazzarestocafe.com MORRIS EAST Intimate spot specializing in pizza, prepared in a wood-fired oven. The dynamic menu showcases locally sourced ingredients. Open Tuesday–Sunday. 5212 Morris St: 902-444-7663. 1984 Vernon St.: 902-444-7669. 620 Nine Mile Dr., Bedford West: 902-444-7671 morriseast.com MOTHER’S PIZZA Raw-edged wood tables and terrariums create a homey vibe at this pie parlour serving a compact menu of hand-tossed, wood-fired pizzas made with local ingredients. 5710 Young St. 902-406-5050. motherspizzacanada.ca SALVATORE’S PIZZAIOLO TRATTORIA New York-Italian cuisine. Best known for its original cheese pizza and Italian hero sandwich. Everything scratch-made on site. Open daily. 4451 Young St. 902-455-1133. salvatorespizza.ca

THE CELTIC CORNER Friendly neighbourhood pub serving traditional, hearty favourites. Traditional East Coast music Thursday–Sunday; open-mic on Tuesday. Open Sunday– Thursday, 11am–midnight; open until 1am on Friday and Saturday. 69 Alderney Dr., Dartmouth. 902-464-0764. celticcorner.ca DURTY NELLY’S AUTHENTIC IRISH PUB From the perfect pint to a menu showcasing traditional cuisine (fish and chips, pan-fried haddock, lamb stew), this pub offers a truly Irish experience. Open daily from 11:30am; weekend brunch until 3pm. Corner of Argyle and Sackville streets. 902-406-7640. durtynellys.ca GUS’ PUB Long-established neighbourhood pub that has enjoyed a trendy resurgence in recent years. Live entertainment, local beer, food by Taco Lina’s. 2605 Agricola St. 902-434-7786. THE LOOSE CANNON SCOTTISH PUBLIC HOUSE Traditional pub favourites like fish n’ chips, burgers, nachos, and curry. Authentic-style haggis. Weekend brunch. 1566 Argyle St. 902-407-8797. theloosecannon.ca THE LOWER DECK PUB—BEER MARKET Try a house-made burger or traditional bangers and mash. The Beer Market has many popular beers on tap. Historic Properties. 902-425-1501. lowerdeck.ca THE MAXWELL’S PLUM Enjoy the city’s largest selection of draft beers from many Maritime breweries. Sixty beers on tap, even more varieties in bottles and cans. 1600 Grafton St. 902-423-5090. themaxwellsplum.com

PUBS

BREWSTERS BAR & GRILL Hearty home-style food: steak, burgers, seafood, pasta, all-day breakfast, and more. Daily specials. Mill Cove Plaza, 961 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-832-0032. brewstersbarandgrill.ca

OASIS PUB Casual atmosphere, big TVs for sports. Pool tables, shuffleboard. Monday: open mic, Thursday: karaoke and wing night. Live music on weekends. 5661 Spring Garden Rd. 902-422-2227. oasishfx.com

PHOTO: DICOVER HALIFAX

Quality Ice Cream the Whole Family can Afford

THE RIGHT NOTE

The Carleton (page 62) is one of the city's most popular music venues, showcasing local talents and touring acts. 66 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

We do sundaes, banana splits, ice cream sandwiches, churros and a lot more

~~~ Made Local ~~~

THE OLD TRIANGLE IRISH ALEHOUSE A taste of Ireland in the heart of downtown Halifax. Three-room pub offers live entertainment nightly (no cover charge) and Irish pub-style food. 5136 Prince St. 902-492-4900. oldtriangle.com OLIVER’S GASTROPUB European-style pub offering a selection of local and imported beer and wine. Breakfast, weekend brunch, broad lunch and dinner menu: burgers, nachos, wings, pizza, steak, fresh Atlantic seafood, and more. Open daily. 3009 Hwy. 2, Fall River. 902-861-3480. innonthelake.com RED STAG TAVERN Historic setting. Specials include half-price appetizers and two-for-one. Brewery Market, 1496 Lower Water St. 902-422-0275. redstag.ca RIVERSIDE PUB & EATERY Casual neighbourhood pub with a patio overlooking the Sackville River. Varied pub-grub menu, all-day breakfast. Open daily. 1552 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-835-1648. SEAMUS DAVID’S PUB Traditional pub fare with Irish flair. Open daily. Weekend brunch. 21 Logiealmond Close, Dartmouth Crossing. 902-462-2034. SPLIT CROW Maritime pub offers cold drinks and an extensive menu. Live East Coast music every night. 1855 Granville St. 902-422-4366. YOUR FATHER’S MOUSTACHE Friendly atmosphere and great food are complemented by fine local entertainment. 5686 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-6766.

STEAK & SEAFOOD

THE BARRINGTON STEAKHOUSE & OYSTER BAR Locally sourced ingredients, modern and inviting atmosphere, knowledgeable staff. Atlantic Canadian beef, local seafood, and wines selected by the in-house sommelier. Located in a historic building in the heart of the downtown. Open daily. 1662 Barrington St. 902-407-5001. barringtonsteakhouse.ca BOONDOCKS RESTAURANT Serving fresh seafood just steps from the ocean in a historic fishing village. Large patio overlooks the Atlantic. Open daily. Fisherman’s Cove, 6 Government Wharf Rd., Eastern Passage. 902-465-3474. boondocksrestaurant.ca CUT STEAKHOUSE Sublime service and contemporary décor. CAA Four Diamond winner annually since opening. Halifax’s most extensive wine cellar; Wine Spectator awarded. Beef dry-aged on-site. Open daily from 5pm. 5120 Salter St. 902-429-5120. cutsteakhouse.com FIVE FISHERMEN Fresh lobster, Atlantic salmon, and Digby scallops are among the specialties. Dinner from 5pm. Weekday lunch, weekend brunch from 11am–3pm. 1740 Argyle St. 902-422-4421. thefivefishermen.com THE KEG Great steaks and a warm atmosphere. Friendly conversations hum cheerfully throughout, above the familiar sizzle and aroma of steaks and seafood on the grill, and the celebratory clinking of glasses. 1712 Market St. 902-425-8355. McKELVIE’S Fine seafood and traditional Nova Scotian fare: blackened salmon, potato-crusted haddock, Szechuan shrimp and scallops, lemon-thyme mussels, crab cakes, pastas, Black Angus steaks, and more. Open daily. 1680 Lower Water St. 902-421-6161. mckelvies.com

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DINING SHUCK SEAFOOD + RAW BAR Fresh locally supplied, Oceanwise-certified seafood. Award-winning Chef Dwayne MacLeod highlights the quality and flavour of each offering. Eclectic and affordable wine list. 5120 Salter St. 902-429-5120. shuckseafood.ca WATERFRONT WAREHOUSE RESTAURANT Fresh Maritime seafood in a casual nautical atmosphere. It’s the only restaurant in the city offering fresh lobster, crab, and oysters all under one roof. Open daily, 11:30am–10pm. 1549 Lower Water St. 902-425-7610. Map 1

THAI

PHOTO: TAMMY FANCY

BAAN THAI RESTAURANT Comfortable, casual Thai restaurant. Specialties include pad thai, spicy noodles, cashew chicken, massaman curry, green curry, and red curry. 5234 Blowers St. 902-446-4301. baanthai.ca

LOCAL FAVOURITE

With fresh seafood and an unbeatable location in Peggy's Cove (page EC1), the Sou'wester (below) is a hit year-round. MURPHY’S THE CABLE WHARF Almost every seat is a window seat—an ideal spot to while away a sunny afternoon. Open daily. Cable Wharf, 1751 Lower St. 902-420-1015. ambassatours.com/restaurant PICKFORD & BLACK Fresh local seafood paired with craft beer from Gahan House and other selections. Harbourside patio. Historic Properties, 1869 Upper Water St. 902-406-3474. pickfordblack.com RHUBARB Casual fine dining by the sea. Seasonal menu, showcasing seasonal local flavours. Open daily. 8650 Peggy’s Cove Rd., Indian Harbour. 902-821-3013. rhubarbrestaurant.ca SALTY’S RESTAURANT Sit dockside in the patio bar, or upstairs in the dining room. Fresh lobster, salmon, scallops, and shrimp. Open daily from 11:30am. Historic Properties, 902-423-6818. saltys.ca SEA SMOKE RESTAURANT & BAR Asian-inspired seafood, sushi, and steaks. Highlights include spicy snow crab, five-spice garlic lobster, black cod misoyaki, and mussels. Lunch combos, sharing dishes, raw bar. 1477 Lower Water St. 902-406-1051. seasmokehalifax.com SOU’WESTER Set among the rocks in beautiful Peggy’s Cove. Popular offerings include chowder, lobster, and fish and chips. 48 kilometres from downtown Halifax on Rte. 333, Peggy’s Cove. 902-823-2561. SHORE CLUB LOBSTER SUPPERS Running for eight decades, these friendly and informal suppers showcase fresh-boiled Atlantic lobster and all-you-can-eat mussels. Vegetarian, steak, chicken, and kids’ meals also on offer. Open Wednesday– Sunday, 4pm–8pm (7pm Saturday). 250 Shore Club Rd., Hubbards. 902-857-9555. shoreclub.ca

MIX MASTERS

CHA BAA THAI RESTAURANT Four locations around the city serving authentic and inexpensive Thai flavours. 1546 Queen St. 5858 Demone St. 1511 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 100 Ilsley Ave., Dartmouth. chabaathairestaurant.ca STAR ANISE Specializes in Vietnamese and Thai dishes. Open Monday–Friday 11am–9:30pm; Saturday noon–9:30pm. 1571 Barrington St. 902-422-2602. staranisenoodle.com TALAY THAI RESTAURANT Choose from creations like Gung Pad Pik Pow (basil prawn with chili paste), Pla Muek Tod Katem (garlic shrimp), and more. Delivery after 5pm. Open for lunch Monday–Friday noon–2:30pm.; daily for dinner, 5pm to 10pm. 1300 Hollis St. 902-404-3700.

TEA HOUSES

WORLD TEA HOUSE In the heart of the downtown, across the street from Neptune Theatre. Old-World tea traditions meet modern mixology and café culture. Open Monday–Saturday 10am–8pm; Sunday noon–5pm. worldteahouse.ca SAWADEE TEA HOUSE Exotic tea house offers 150 types of premium loose tea leaves, fresh from plantations around the world. Open daily. Granville Mall, 1871 Granville St. 902-422-4192. sawadeeteahouse.com

TURKISH

TURKISH DELIGHT KEBAP HOUSE Turkish doners. Seafood and mezes. Kebaps of lamb, chicken, and other varieties. Vegetarian offers. Open daily. 5680 Spring Garden Rd. 902-446-4366. turkishdelighthalifax.ca EFENDY TURKISH & MEDITERRANEAN GRILL Authentic cuisine at a reasonable price. Everything is hand-made, with meat cooked on a charcoal grill. Popular items include mixed kebabs, lamb shanks, tuna steak, vegetarian options, and more. Open daily. 1569 Dresden Row. 902-444-8064. efendyrestaurant.com

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN

ENVIE Vegan kitchen showcasing scratch-made comfort made with GMO-free ingredients. Favourites include vegan charcuterie, barbecue pulled-tofu tacos, pad Thai, and weekend brunch. Open Tuesday–Sunday. 5775 Charles St. 902-492-4077. enviehalifax.com WILD LEEK Made-from-scratch vegan comfort food, fresh juices, and gourmet desserts, with gluten, dairy, and nut-free options. Open daily. 2148 Windsor St. 902-444-5466. wildleek.ca

From classic martinis to flavour-bending cocktails, you’ll find tasty drinks aplenty at The Middle Spoon (page 60) on Barrington Street. 68 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA/JAMES INGRAM

TOURS AND FAMILY FUN

PADDLE POWER

Whether you’re a veteran kayaker or a total novice, it’s easy to explore Nova Scotia by sea with East Coast Outfitters (below). Lessons and equipment rentals available.

GOLF

AIRLANE GOLF CLUB 9 holes. Near Halifax airport. No tee time required. 2103 Old Guysborough Rd., Goffs. 902-873-4040. airlanegolfclub.com GLEN ARBOUR GOLF COURSE Premier course with 18 holes, 9-hole par 3, warm-up facility, putting green, power carts. 40 Clubhouse Lane, Hammonds Plains. 902-835-4653, 1-877-835-4653. glenarbour.com GOODWOOD FAMILY GOLF CENTRE Driving range, lessons, 18-hole mini golf. 1300 Prospect Rd. 902-876-1122. goodwoodfamilygolf.com GRANDVIEW GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB 18 holes, putting and chipping green, driving range, power carts, lessons. Public course. 431 Crane Hill Rd., Dartmouth. 902-435-3278. eaglequestgolf.com GRANITE SPRINGS GOLF CLUB 18 holes, putting green, warm-up range, power carts, food and beverages. 4441 Prospect Rd., Bayside. 902-852-GOLF (4653). granitespringsgolf.com HARTLEN POINT CFB GOLF CLUB 18 holes, driving range, club house facilities. 2400 Shore Rd., Eastern Passage. Admin: 902-465-6354, pro shop: 902-465-3038. INDIAN LAKE GOLF COURSE 18 holes, executive course. Pro shop, putting green, licensed restaurant with deck, and three high-def golf simulators. Open year-round. 902-876-8844. 199 Old Coach Rd., Goodwood. indianlakegolfcourse.ca THE LINKS AT BRUNELLO 7,158-yard course opened in June 2015. Bentgrass tees, greens, and fairways. White-sand bunkers, multiple teeing areas, continuous paved cart paths. 120 Brunello Blvd. 902-876-7649. thelinksatbrunello.com THE LINKS AT MONTAGUE GOLF COURSE & ACADEMY Executive 9-hole course, driving range, pitch and putt, training academy, clubhouse. 5 Lakehill Dr., Dartmouth. Manager: 902-433-3331, pro shop: 902-433-3330, academy: 902-433-3332. thelinksatmontague.com

LOST CREEK GOLF CLUB Scenic views. 18 holes, par 71. Power carts. Public welcome. Licensed facility. 310 Kinsac Road, Beaver Bank. 902-865-4653. lostcreek.ca RIVER OAKS GOLF CLUB 27-hole public course. Par 70, par 36. Licensed restaurant, bar, canteen, deck. 3909 Hwy. 357, Meagher’s Grant. 902-384-2033. riveroaksgolfclub.ca

TOURS

A&M SEA CHARTERS Departing from Eastern Passage. Whale watching, nature tours, harbour tours, deep-sea fishing, shark fishing, and personalized tours. 87 Government Wharf Rd., Eastern Passage. 902-465-6617. amseacharters.com ABERDEEN BUS TOURS & CHARTERS Day tours, shuttle services; 15-, 24-, and 56-seat buses. 902-850-3377. aberdeenbustours.ca AMBASSATOURS GRAY LINE Bus charters, sightseeing tours by land and sea, airport transfers. Options include amphibious Harbour Hopper tours, sailing cruises, dinner and party cruises, whale watching, deep-sea fishing, and more. 1-800-565-9662. ambassatours.com ARRIVE IN STYLE LIMOUSINE SERVICE Tour services, day excursions, sightseeing tours, airport pick up and drop off. 1-866-644-5646, 902-453-5646. arriveinstyle.ca BLUE SHARK FISHING CHARTERS Professional sport-fishing charter service, specializing in big-game shark fishing. Blue Shark is a “catch, tag, and release” operation, returning sharks to the water in good health and sending catch data to shark researchers at the Bedford Institute of Oceanography. 902-830-4115. bluesharkcharters.com COASTAL ADVENTURES Sea-kayaking tours for beginners or experts. Day trips, extended regional tours, equipment rentals. 902-772-2774, 1-877-404-2774. coastaladventures.com EAST COAST OUTFITTERS Based in Lower Prospect, offering Kayak explorations of coastal Nova Scotia. Individual and group tours. No experience necessary; lessons and gear rentals. 902-852-2567, 1-877-852-2567. eastcoastoutfitters.com OCTOBER 2019

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PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA/DEAN CASAVECHIA

TOURS AND FAMILY FUN

BEST BITES

Foodies will love Local Tasting Tours (below)—discover Halifax's unique culinary traditions and experiences. GREAT EARTH EXPEDITIONS Small-group multi-sport tours to destinations throughout Nova Scotia. Half-day, full-day, and multi-day expeditions, including hiking, sightseeing, wildlife, whale-watching, history, and adventure tours. 902-223-2409, 1-800-865-0221. greatearthexpeditions.com HALIFAX TITANIC HISTORICAL TOURS Six-hour narrated tours of Halifax, Dartmouth, and Fisherman’s Cove. See Titanic and Halifax Explosion sights. Other six-hour tours include the South Shore and Annapolis Valley. Accessible private tours available. Reservations required. 902-926-6780. halifaxtitanictours.ca I HEART BIKES Located on the waterfront, offering bike rentals, guided and self-guided tours, maintenance, repairs, and more. Sands at Salter, 1507 Lower Water St. 902-406-7774. iheartbikeshfx.com LOCAL TASTING TOURS A variety of culinary experiences in downtown Halifax, mixing fun cultural facts and an insider’s look at food history with delicious tastings and an entertaining walk through historic neighbourhoods. Daily tours highlight unique, locally owned spots. Ticket includes all food and drink. 902-818-9055. localtastingtours.com McNABS ISLAND FERRY Ferry service to McNabs Island and Devil’s Island; self-guided historical and nature tours. Hiking, biking, camping, bird- and seal-watching tours. Year-round. 902-465-4563, 1-800-326-4563. mcnabsisland.com MURPHY’S THE CABLE WHARF Live entertainment, narrated dinner cruises aboard the Harbour Queen sternwheeler. Tour under full sail on the Silva or cruise with pirates aboard the Mar. Afternoon nature and whale-watching cruises aboard the Haligonian III. Harbour Hopper amphibious tours. Cable Wharf, 1751 Lower Water St. 902-420-1015. murphysonthewater.com

BODIES IN MOTION

NEED-A-LIFT TRANSPORTATION SERVICES Wheelchairaccessible taxi and tour service in the Halifax region. 902-222-5438. needalift.ca NOVASHORES ADVENTURES Full- and half-day sea kayaking tours through a unique marine ecosystem. Small groups with stable touring kayaks. Explore the Dover archipelago near Peggy’s Cove, a 40-minute drive from Halifax. Beginners welcome, instruction available. Shaw’s Landing, West Dover (near Peggy’s Cove). 866-638-4118 or 902-852-3875. novashores.com PEDAL & SEA ADVENTURES Creative bicycle and kayak tours for outdoor adventurers, with itineraries throughout the region. 877-777-5699. pedalandseaadventures.com TATTLE TOURS Guided ghost walks and walking tours of historic Halifax, brimming with tall tales, little known facts, and local gossip. Call Andy Smith: 902-494-0525. tattletours.ca TOURS BY TOWN CAR Airport transfers plus private sedan and limousine tours. Drivers are well trained with industry certifications including the Pineapple Certificate, the Host Certificate, and the SuperHost Certificate. 902-456-3926 or 877-595-8687. toursbytowncar.ns.ca UNCORK NOVA SCOTIA Public, private, and customized wine and city tours. 902-472-2668, 1-877-365-2552. winetoursns.com VISION AIR SERVICES INC. Narrated helicopter tours, (including Halifax’s bustling port, the Bay of Fundy, the Eastern Shore, Peggy’s Cove, and custom itineraries), golfing transportation, and island excursions. 902-873-3488.visionairhelicopters.ca

Point Pleasant Park (page EC6) boasts some 39km of car-free woodland and seaside trails, making it a destination for fresh-air fiends in any season. 70 where.ca OCTOBER 2019

Oct 22 - Nov 10, 2019

The dramatic story of the man who saved over 500 whales

By Robert Chafe • Directed by Jillian Keiley • Music composed and arranged by The Once

Steve O’Connell - Photo by Paul Daly

Neptune Theatre presents Artistic Fraud of Newfoundland’s

More than 170 fashionable shops and services. Get a $5 gift card when you show an out-of-town ID at Guest Services.

shopping is our middle name.

halifaxshoppingcentre.com