Saltscapes Food & Travel Guide 2021

2021 ISSUE

Compliments of Bay Ferries & Northumberland Ferries

The summer of the staycation

STICK YOUR PADDLE IN Sea kayaking Newfoundland’s coasts

HANDS-ON HISTORY PEI’s Orwell Corner Historic Village saltscapes.com/travel

STARRY, STARRY NIGHTS Exploring the universe from Dark Sky sites

A toast to Atlantic Canada.

You put in the work. You look out for one another. And you stay apart when you need to, even though that doesn’t come easy here.

So we raise our glass to you, Atlantic Canada.

And we hope to see you soon.

Domaine de Grand Pré Winery

Plan your trip at NovaScotia.com

contents

NEW BRUNSWICK

6

610 km of happiness Biking the Acadian Peninsula

8

Not just poached salmon New takes on an old New Brunswick standby

PARKS CANADA / ACORN ART PHOTOGRAPHY

Your staycation plans start here!

11 Somewhere down the Chocolate River For decades, New Brunswick’s Petitcodiac River didn’t get the respect it deserved. That’s changing

Georges Island, Halifax NS

34 Take ’er slow

16 Whales at warp speed Whale watching aboard a former FBI jet boat

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR 27 Get out of town: short drives from St. John’s From iceburgs to grottos, just out “round the bay”

30 The little enGINe that could The Newfoundland Distillery Company celebrates local

32 Stick your paddle in!

Sea kayaking in Newfoundland offers great scenery, and thrills to boot

50 More than apple pie

From Port Aux Basques to St. Anthony

NOVA SCOTIA

37 Off limits no longer Georges Island National Historic Park is a hot ticket

41 Big machines, big history Nova Scotia’s Museum of Industry

44 Tunes and Wooden Spoons Friendship, a cup of tea, and Mary Janet MacDonald

48 Taken with Tatamagouche From honey mead to handturned gourmet ice cream, Tatamagouche is buzzing

Caramel apples, cider and more from Nova Scotia’s apple heartland

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

53 On sands that sing Top beach experiences in Eastern PEI

56 A meal in a pocket— or a hand PEI Handpie Company makes an ideal to-go food

58 Dig your hands into history A visit to Orwell Corner Historic Village

60 Take a walk on PEI’s wild side Enjoying the splendour of the Greenwich dunes

Y O U R I N T I M A T E G U I D E T O C A N A D A’ S E A S T C O A S T

3

TOURISM PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

2021 issue

Saltscapes Co-Founders Jim & Linda Gourlay • gourlays@saltscapes.com Advocate Group Publisher Fred Fiander • ffiander@saltscapes.com Editor-In-Chief Crystal Murray • cmurray@saltscapes.com Associate Editor Jodi DeLong • jdelong@saltscapes.com Food Editor Alain Bossé • alain@kiltedchef.ca VP Sales and Marketing Linda Gourlay • lgourlay@saltscapes.com

Basin Head Beach, PEI

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

86 Map

64 Wheely Good Eats

88 ADVERTISING: Set Sail on a Summer Maritime Adventure

East Coast food trucks

66 Starry, starry nights Exploring the night skies in Atlantic Canada

70 Yes, food does taste better outside Dining in nature isn’t limited to burgers and sm’ores

72 Sinners, spirits and terrifying tales East Coast ghost tours thrill, chill and educate

74 From dietary restriction to dietary revolution Food diversity is the new name of the game

76 Camping made simpler No packing a tent when you opt for glamping

79 Golfing on par

Production & Creative Director Shawn Dalton • sdalton@saltscapes.com Production Coordinator Nicole McNeil • nmcneil@metroguide.ca Designer Jocelyn Spence • jspence@metroguide.ca Roxanna Boers • rboers@saltscapes.com

Travel between PEI, NB, and NS with friends and family

Saltscapes is published seven times annually by: Metro Guide Publishing, a division of Advocate Printing & Publishing Company Ltd. 2882 Gottingen St., Halifax, NS B3K 3E2 Tel: (902) 464-7258, Sales Toll Free: 1-877-311-5877

RECIPES

Contents copyright: No portion of this publication may be reprinted without the consent of the publisher.

Saltscapes can assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or other materials and cannot return same unless accompanied by S.A.S.E.

10 Apricot Chili Glaze Salmon

Publisher cannot warranty claims made in advertisements.

Saltscapes is committed to Atlantic Canada’s unique people, their culture, their heritage and their values.

29 Lobster Linguine Tutto Mare 35 Partridgeberry Gin Fizz 50 Homemade Apple Cider 51 Apple Soup 52 Apple Ambrosia

Subscription Services Enquiries please contact: Toll Free: 1-877-885-6344 subscriptions@saltscapes.com PO Box 190 Pictou, NS B0K 1H0

Subscriptions are non-refundable. If a subscription needs to be cancelled, where applicable, credits can be applied to other Metro Guide Publishing titles. Please note that each circumstance is unique and election to make an offer in one instance does not create obligation to do so in another.

Subscriptions: Canada, one year (7 issues) $29.95, two years (14 issues) $48.95 (plus applicable tax) U.S. one year $29.95 (Cdn) plus $17 shipping Overseas one year $29.95 (Cdn) plus $29 shipping We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada.

57 PEI Pasty 71 Murkha Dal 71 Bannock on a Stick

Some of the finest courses are in Atlantic Canada

83 Natural wonders, UNESCO certified Atlantic Canada is home to numerous biosphere reserves and geoparks 4

Account Executives Susan Giffin • sgiffin@saltscapes.com Pam Hancock • phancock@saltscapes.com Stephanie Balcom • sbalcom@saltscapes.com Connie Cogan • ccogan@saltscapes.com

Y O U R I N T I M A T E G U I D E T O C A N A D A’ S E A S T C O A S T

Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40601061 ISSN 1492-3351 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Saltscapes Subscriptions, PO Box 190 Pictou, NS B0K 1H0 E-mail: subscriptions@saltscapes.com Printed by: Advocate Printing & Publishing, Pictou, NS, CANADA On our cover Saltscapes: Dark skies at Kouchibouguac National Park

by Nigel Fearon Photography / Parks Canada Sobeys: Lobster dinner by Steve Smith / Visionfire Bay Ferries & Northumberland Ferries: Contributed photo Saltscapes is a member of: Canadian Magazine Publishers Association

CMCA AUDITED

A taste of Miramichi Exploring Atlantic Canada’s Great Outdoors is hard work and can bring out the ferocious appetite of any adventurer! Miramichi has something to please all taste palate’s. From succulent seafood to delicious desserts, our local chefs are waiting to serve you up a taste of Miramichi! Need something refreshing to wash it down? Indulge in our locally inspired craft beers or spirits! They will have you walking on the Wild Side in no time (but not too wild… please drink responsibly)!”

re di s cove r mi ramic h i.co m |

1.80 0.459.3 13 1

610 km of happiness Biking the Acadian Peninsula

BY SHELLEY CAMERON-MCCARRON

M

In fact, this cycling gem, which parallels fields, forest, sea and road and borders both Chaleur Bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, connects more than 300 kilometres of trail— most of it paved and generally flat, making it ideal for all, from beginners and families to experienced cyclists. In all, the VPA covers more than 600 kilometres with its 14 circuits connecting municipalities, towns, fishing ports and local service districts. We’re told one can cycle all the way up to Miscou Island, at the peninsula’s edge.

Here, cyclists can follow rivers famed for trout fishing, see fields of blueberries, pull over to gaze upon majestic churches, detour for a beach break, call into award-winning Distillerie Fils du Roi for a tasting of their renowned gin, ride past peat bogs and marshes, see oyster farming, listen to the

sound of the sea, bike out to lighthouses, breathe in the scent of forest fresh air—and perhaps best of all take a deep dive into Acadian culture on this peninsula of some 50,000 inhabitants, famously known for their hospitality, joie de vivre and living history.

Armand Caron, special advisor VPA, rides daily through different sections of the Véloroute Péninsule acadienne, and he knows firsthand its benefits—including trail points providing access to the sea, where he often stops to admire the beauty of the surroundings and appreciate the presence of birds and ducks of various species.

Says Caron: “I regularly use the 70 km off-road trail, which allows me to bike safely.

The Véloroute also allows me to meet cyclists from here and elsewhere, to visit other communities, businesses, tourist attractions

CLAUDE CÔTÉ

ore than 610 kilometres of happiness. That’s how the biking trail, Véloroute de la Péninsule acadienne (VPA), bills itself, and on this gorgeous September afternoon, a day when the sun is warm and the world full of possibility, I couldn’t agree more.

My husband and I have detoured off a terrific road trip through northeast New Brunswick to rent bikes in Tracadie-Sheila. That’s how we find ourselves sailing off onto a quick adventure, breathing in sweet freedom as we pedal past marshland and over little bridges, heady with excitement as we sample a small section of the Véloroute, a much-loved network of small and large biking circuits running throughout the countryside that—amazingly—covers the whole of the Acadian Peninsula.

Véloroute de la Péninsule acadienne, Tracadie

6

NEW BRUNSWICK

MATHIEU DUPUIS PHOTOGRAPH

CLAUDE CÔTÉ

You can enjoy getting in some great exercise plus take a deep dive into Acadian culture along

CLAUDE CÔTÉ

the Véloroute Péninsula acadienne.

and to take a break to share a coffee or a meal with cycling friends.

“Often, the bike route is an opportunity to enjoy fish and seafood in local restaurants.”

Caron says the Véloroute is important for the region because it contributes to the well-being and health of the local population, plus it creates a significant economic impact by attracting visitors who wish to discover the Acadian Peninsula and its attractions other than by car. Additionally, it promotes respect for the environment by encouraging active transportation in the communities.

Spend any time in the region and it’s easy to see the trail is well used by local residents for biking and also walking, running, and rollerblading. The terrain, with its low elevation and narrow coastline bordering both Chaleur Bay and the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, is ideal for cycling, says Myriam Beaudin, VPA Communication and Marketing, as the trail passes through

diverse ecosystems, past bays, beaches and bottlenecks.

Along with geographic blessings, the route gives visitors the chance to immerse themselves in Acadian culture, from sitting down to fresh seafood and traditional fare at area restaurants to visiting museums and significant historical sites.

Beaudin says the idea for a cycling route stretches back 30 years to 1991 when work began to develop a bicycle path on the former Canadian National Railway line. In 2005, at the annual meeting of the Acadian Peninsula Tourism Association, Grand Caraquet sector, Serge Dugas suggested the idea of a cycle route covering the entire Acadian Peninsula.

Two years of hard work later, a milestone was met with the creation of the Association des ami(e)s de la Véloroute de la Péninsule acadienne inc. and the first section of paved path between Caraquet and Bertrand.

Beaudin says thanks to contributions from the Government of New Brunswick, the 2009 Congrès mondial acadien, and the Ami(e)s de la Véloroute, a fund established in 2010 helped create a permanent office. The new corporation, Véloroute de la Péninsule acadienne inc., is tasked with building and managing the route, which steadily and surely grows. Another milestone was reached in 2018 with funding from the governments of Canada and New Brunswick and three Acadian Peninsula municipalities for the reconstruction of the Sentier NB Trail cycle path.

Today, visitors can bring their own bikes or rent them (including electric-assist bikes) at various sites along the trail. The VPA’s website, velo.nb.ca/veloroute-de-la-peninsule-acadienne/ is a great resource to find these listings (the rental enterprises are also listed on Ondago) and for cyclists to consult for tips to plan their trip.

“Our 600 km of trails, both off-road and on-road, offer a variety of possibilities: whether you are on Miscou Island, around the Tabusintac River and Hay Island, in Grande-Anse or on our 70-km off-road section where you can visit five municipalities,” says Beaudin.

NEW BRUNSWICK

7

Not just poached salmon

BIGSTOCK/ MARYIA_K

Upper Oxbow Adventures

New takes on an old New Brunswick standby

BY SANDRA PHINNEY

W

hat do “alevin” and “sac fry,” “parr,” “smolt,” and “grilse” have in common? They are names for the different life stages of Atlantic salmon (Salmo salar), considered by many as the king of fish.

Debbie Norton would be the first to agree. Her great-great grandfather settled on the banks of the Little Southwest Miramichi River in NB in 1823. In the early 1900s, her great grandfather started hosting sport fishermen from around the world.

Seven generations later Debbie, along with her husband Dale and their family, continue

8

NEW BRUNSWICK

the tradition at Upper Oxbow Adventures.

Debbie recalls one morning when son Bob stepped out of the veranda at 5:30 a.m. to the telling sounds of the high pitch scream of a Hardy “St. John” reel. “Out of the mist appeared the silhouette of Frank Somers, a seasoned angler,” Debbie says, “lathered in sweat from the battle of fighting a 30-pound Atlantic salmon.” Gasping for breath, he asked Bob to take over.

“Bob took the rod as the salmon peeled off and disappeared 100 yds around the bend in the river. The battle ensued for three such runs. Then, aiming for a quick

release, Bob pulled hard; his mighty foe leapt high into the air, arched its back and in this moment snapped the fly. It was as though the salmon winked and made a bow, saying ‘Farewell. I have won this battle!’”

Luckily, locals like Debbie are founts of information who love to share their knowledge—including their favourite way to cook salmon.

“I prefer mine cooked in tinfoil on the barbecue,” she says. “Spray the foil with olive oil; on each side of a 4-lb salmon, place thin slices of lemon along with a little garlic powder and onion powder. Wrap tightly in

Left: Cecelia Brooks loves cooking with salmon.

Her preferred method is grilling it outside, using fir or spruce boughs to help infuse “the wild” into the salmon.

Opposite page: Seasoned NB fishing guide Buddy Silliker (right) and a happy angler visiting

The Old World Style of Winemaking—Made Locally

NEAL WHITE

Upper Oxbow Adventures show off their catch.

the tinfoil. Cook approximately 15 minutes on each side.”

Cecelia Brooks, a member of St. Mary’s First Nation (Sitansisk Wolastoqiyik), grew up learning how her family travelled by canoe each spring to Eqpahak Island on the outskirts of Fredericton to spear salmon. “My grandfather always told me they knew when to go by the blossoming of the fruit trees.

That’s when the salmon headed back upriver to spawn.”

Her grandfather also said the fish were so plentiful, people could walk across the river on the back of the salmon. “Some of the fish were grilled on a fire, some were boiled, and some were dried for later,” she says.

Cecelia and her son Anthony are medicine keepers and operate Wabanaki Tree Spirit Tours and Events in Fredericton.

They teach their culture and history by guiding people on foraging excursions in old-rowth forests. Cecelia also gives culinary workshops. Asked how she prefers to cook salmon, she shared this method which starts with a mushroom duxelle.

Take one pound of wild-harvested mushrooms and half a cup of onions or shallots and finely chop them (can also use food processor) then sauté them in 4 tbsp of butter until they sweat. Add ¼ cup heavy cream (or wine, port, brandy.) Season with salt and pepper. Stuff this mixture into slits cut into a 5-6 lb. salmon. Place on a grill over an open fire and cover with a dozen fir, spruce, or cedar boughs in a criss-cross fashion. This will “steam” the fish and infuse it with the flavour of the boughs; the skin

Country Haven Miramichi www.fishingatlanticsalmon.com

Welcome to Elsipogtog Mi'kmaq Cultural Center, Tours & Artisan Gift Shop

110 rue Principale, Memramcook, NB E4K 1A9 www.latitude46wines.ca

Hike the

scenic seascapes the Roosevelts so loved !

Come explore our Mi'kmaq Culture With Us!

• 34-room guided tour • Guided hikes • May 29- late summer check website for days/hours open • FREE Admission

506-521-0308 heritagepathtour.com heritagepathtour@outlook.com

New Brunswick 877-851-6663 RooseveltCampobello.org

NEW BRUNSWICK

9

10

NEW BRUNSWICK

sweet potato (save the skins!) and cut in half a handful of Brussel sprouts. Toss the vegetables with a bit of oil and salt.

Cook on a hot baking sheet in 450°F (230°C) oven until they start to soften and turn colour on their corners (12-15 minutes).

Fry potato skins in oil until crisp.

Now for the glaze: 1 ½ tbsp/25 mL honey ¼ cup/50 mL apricot preserves 2 tsp/10 mL grainy Dijon 2 tsp/10 mL soy sauce 2 tsp/10 mL lime juice ½ tsp/2 mL minced garlic ¼ tsp/1 mL chili flakes Mix altogether, bring to a boil then simmer until it coats the back of a spoon.

To serve: place vegetables on your plate, top with salmon, then pour glaze over fish. Top with crispy skins.

There you have it. Several ways to turn out salmon from those-in-the-know.

CHEF RYAN WATSON

will be crisp.

Another fan of salmon is executive chef Ryan Watson who’s heading up the new STMR.36 restaurant at Delta Hotels Fredericton.

Chef Ryan says, “Salmon is so versatile and there are many ways to prepare it: baked, poached, smoked, grilled, skin on, skin off. It’s great for lunch or dinner and is very rich in healthy fats and Omega 3s.

Good for heart health!”

One of the most popular menu items this season is his Apricot Chili Glaze Salmon. To prepare this dish, put 4-5 slits in the skin of a portion of salmon and give it a generous coating of salt. Then place in a very hot pan with a little oil, searing the fish until it cooks halfway through. Flip, adding a knob of butter and baste the salmon for a minute or two.

“I prefer salmon cooked to about 125-130F,” Ryan says. “There is nothing worse than overcooked, dry salmon!”

Serve with roasted sweet potatoes, roasted brussel sprouts and crispy potato skins prepared this way: peel and cube a

Somewhere down the

NEW BRUNSWICK TOURISM / NIGEL FEARON

Chocolate River

I

For decades, New Brunswick’s Petitcodiac River didn’t get the respect it deserved.

That’s changing and it’s about time

t was half past 4 o’clock in the afternoon and the biting flies were out for a snack at the headwaters of the Petitcodiac River.

Downstream, where the river crashes into the highest tides in the world, it turns into something resembling 25 square kilometers of chocolate milk shake. But up here—long before it meanders past southeastern New Brunswick’s alluvial plains, towns and farms—it was as smooth and clear as glass.

And buggy.

“They’ve been getting worse recently,” said my guide (whom I’ll call Jim), snatching mosquitos out of the air by the handful. “For generations, the gypsum caves along the river made perfect homes for little brown bats. You know one of those critters can eat 1,000 insects in an hour? Anyway, they’re gone now, thanks to white nose fungus or, maybe, climate change.”

Jim is a wildlife specialist who works for one of the local First Nations. Their ancestors inhabited these shores for thousands of years before European settlers arrived. He’s

BY ALEC BRUCE

a Scots-Irish gent, 40, fit, and full of topical knowledge. “We used to have a lot of fish in the river, too,” he said. “Everything you can imagine: salmon, gaspereau, brook trout, bass, perch, sturgeon.”

The problem, he said, is man. The problem, he said, is always man. “The good news is man can always make things better.”

He looked up from his clipboard. “We’re making things better right now, right here.”

I hadn’t been back on the river in years.

Travel, work, a move to Halifax—life—had reordered my priorities. But I’d recently snatched an opportunity to return, to see how my beloved “Chocolate River” had come along since I’d been gone, since the city of Moncton and the provincial government finally reversed years of neglect and began to restore its riparian health for eco-tourists and river rats like me. And so here I was, talking about the future—while also getting eaten alive.

In the old days, I wouldn’t have needed a guide for an adventure like this. For more

than two decades, I was fond of gambolling along the Petitcodiac’s banks alone and in all conditions. Whenever I wanted a break from writing my daily column for the Moncton Times & Transcript, I scooted down to Bore Park to watch the sandpipers pluck shrimp from the mud flats that stretched for miles.

The river’s sameness—particularly where it bends to the south and widens on its last leg to the Bay of Fundy—was a steady comfort to me.

On the other hand, she wasn’t the prettiest watercourse I’d ever seen. New Brunswick’s Saint John River was larger and, in many places, lovelier. The Fraser, Thompson and Kootenay out west were far more conspicuous. Even the humble Saint Mary’s in Guysborough County, NS—where American slugger Babe Ruth once happily dropped a line, or several, for mighty Atlantic salmon—had more star power.

The Petitcodiac, by contrast, was a 79-kilometre-long brown ribbon that looked a lot like the muddy Mississippi, only NEW BRUNSWICK

11

NEW BRUNSWICK TOURISM / DON RICKER

The tidal bore, the leading edge of the incoming tide from the Bay of Fundy, is popular with long board surfers and those content to watch the rushing—if muddy—water.

City of Moncton Tidal Bore

skinnier and shallower. Seeing it for the first time, American humourist Erma Bombeck allegedly quipped, “Hell…I retain more water than that.”

This may explain why, for decades, residents along its shores had taken it for granted. Certainly, no one gave it a second thought when Moncton officials decided to build a causeway in 1968. The fixed link made getting to work between the city and the town of Riverview on the other side easy enough. It also effectively destroyed the Petitcodiac, causing millions of cubic meters of silt to settle exactly where its fish normally passed—through special, but sometimes

12

NEW BRUNSWICK

shuttered, gates—to spawn upstream. Still, they thought, it seemed a reasonable price to pay for progress. They were wrong, and eventually their civic successors knew it. We all did.

I first noticed a shift in local attitudes towards the river in 2009, around the time I began writing on municipal-provincial relations. Moncton was riding high on a wave of entrepreneurial tech investment. It had begun to think of itself as a “smart city”, which no longer needed to scour its natural environment to bolster its bottom line.

Climate change was on everybody’s lips and, suddenly, so was the Petitcodiac.

Within five years, the turnabout was all but astonishing: The city permanently opened the gates; the river widened and deepened; the bore (the leading edge of the incoming tide that forms a travelling wall of water) recovered to its metre-high pre-causeway level. Long-board surfers from California may have been the happiest tourists to the area in 50 years. “It’s super cool, dude,” one told me in 2013.

Now, almost seven years later, I caught myself asking a version of the same question: “Is the river finally super cool?”

Jim’s about as tolerant and easy-going as a naturalist who spends his time fighting

PETITCODIAC RIVERKEEPER INC. (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Petitcodiac River Causeway

uphill battles can get. But he doesn’t much like the question. It presupposes that the Petitcodiac’s value is somehow cosmetic; its beauty only skin deep.

In fact, the river is—always has been—a crucial nursery for thousands of species of terrestrial and aquatic wildlife. It has formed the backbone of indigenous economies for countless generations. It’s only been since the so-called industrial age began that we seem to have forgotten this. Still, as he says, we are making things better “right now, right here”.

In February of 2021, the New Brunswick government’s department of transportation and infrastructure announced that it planned to start work on a new bridge to replace the causeway by October.

Meanwhile, the city unveiled its scheme to add seven kilometres of new trails along the riverfront this year—anticipating, perhaps, that if they build it, people will come to admire what, until recently, got no respect at all. Perhaps, it is the dawning of the age of eco-friendliness, after all.

Perhaps, but on this late afternoon as the sun began to set behind the fir trees, there was still work to be done. “The fish certainly are coming back,” Jim said. “That’s great news. We just want to do everything we can to help them along.”

He jotted down a few more notes and talked about his employer’s work with the federal government and other partners in the public and private sector to restock the Petitcodiac with something nobody has seen in any quantity in years: Atlantic salmon.

“You know what salmon do?”

He grinned from ear to ear. He swatted another fly.

“They eat bugs.”

There’s No Time Like the Present to Discover the Past!

Your Home on Campobello Island

At Kings Landing, your senses will come alive with all things 19th-century New Brunswick.

Don’t just imagine what life was like 200 years ago, step back and live it!

Fredericton, New Brunswick kingslanding.nb.ca @KingsLandingNB

info@pollockcove.com • 506-752-2300

NEW BRUNSWICK

13

Whales at warp speed Whale watching from aboard a former FBI jet boat STORY AND PHOTOS BY DARCY RHYNO

I

feel like a dog with my head out the car window. We’re zipping over the calm waters of Passamaquoddy Bay out of Saint Andrews, New Brunswick like a sports car down the highway. Aboard this former FBI high speed jet drive Zodiac that goes by the name of Jolly Hurricane and reaches 65 kilometres per hour on a day like this, we’ll be on the whale watching grounds out on the open Bay of Fundy in no time.

We race past the 22-metre square rigged cutter, the Jolly Breeze of St. Andrews, another whale watching ship in this fleet, like it’s a school bus in the slow lane. Passengers exchange waves, everyone excited for the kind of adventure they favour. Aboard the Jolly Breeze, it’s a leisurely trip with a touch of the past, while ours is a crazy fast one with something futuristic about it. Aboard the Jolly Breeze, passengers are wandering about the wooden deck, drinks in hand, checking out the sails and webs of ropes. On the Jolly

16

NEW BRUNSWICK

Hurricane, we’re dressed in puffy, orange survival suits, bobbing in our shock-absorbing seats like so many tanned minions in a weird Despicable Me spinoff.

“It’s certainly part of the adventure, getting into those suits,” says Joanne Carney, co-owner with her husband Rob Carney of Jolly Breeze Whale Watching, and our guide for the trip. I have to agree. The suits are comfortable and flexible, shielding me against the fierce wind caused by our speed.

Rafts of seaweed, rocky coastline, beaches, lighthouses, rustic cabins along the shore, eddies in the currents between islands—all pass by as if we’re in a time lapse film.

Then our first whale. The captain cuts the engine. Just like that, not 50 metres from shore, a humpback whale blows a spout.

Well, that’s what I’ve always heard a whale does, spouts water from its blowhole. But it’s more like a cloud of mist that hovers in the air as the sleek black back of this colossal

sea creature rolls to the surface, exposing its dorsal fin. Once, twice and a third time it rises to the surface. With each pass, I try to imagine what it must be like to take in great gulps of air through a hole in the back, but it’s just too foreign a concept. These are wonderfully strange creatures.

On the third pass, the whale seems higher out of the water than before. We soon learn why—it’s diving. The great body of a humpback—it’s probably 16 metres in length, weighing in at something like 30,000 kilograms—angles down into the depths, bringing its widely-forked tail completely into the air. Water pours off it as the underside, marked with bright white patches, flips into view. Just before it slips without a splash below the surface, it is the exact shape of an upside-down moustache, curled ends and all.

Excitement hums among the passengers, then we’re on our way again. Now that we’ve

put the last fingers of the mainland and the last of the near-shore islands like Bliss and White Horse behind us, we can see our destination—The Wolves. The waters around this string of five small islands is the most promising for spotting whales, dolphins, seals and seabirds. The jet drives are shoved into neutral and we coast to a quiet stop in front of Southern Wolf Island Nature Reserve. A fishing boat with a few folks enjoying a lazy afternoon on the water bobs near the cliffs.

“There are spots where whales tend to hang out,” Carney says. “It has to do with the currents and the shape of the ocean floor. The current tends to push the fish right around that island. It helps school the herring. Then the whales feed there.”

Sure enough, a behemoth rises from the depths and does its thing, spouting and inhaling, curling its body and at last diving, as if we weren’t even there. Long after the whale’s tail disappears, we’re left with what amounts to its footprint. As a whale dives, the downward motion of its tail (flukes) leaves a smooth patch of water where it disappears. In the days of whale hunting, whalers mistakenly thought these slick fluke prints were caused by oil from the whale’s skin. Then again, they got a lot of things wrong about whales.

“We know the whales’ patterns after doing this for so many years,” Carney says.

“Plus, the captains have very keen eyes.

They can see a whale blow from a mile or two away.”

She and Rob started their whale watching tours in 2004 when they bought the Jolly Breeze. For the previous nine years, they sailed on their live-aboard boat around the Caribbean. When they visited Rob’s parents

in Saint Andrews, they fell for the place so hard, they had to find a way to stay.

Suddenly, for no reason I can see, the boat is kicked into gear and we peel off in the direction of Grand Manan Island. We travel at warp speed for what must be a few kilometres before the captain slows the boat and cuts the engine. It seems as if we’re just waiting again, except in a different place, until 100 metres off, a whale surfaces.

“Sedge,” Carney says. This is a humpback she knows. His dorsal has a huge notch out of it, making him easy to identify. He’s been coming around for the last couple of years, but what’s really cool, says Carney, is that he was spotted this winter in Samaná Bay, Dominican Republic. Someone posted a picture on the Jolly Breeze Facebook page.

Joanne and the other guides and captains have other favourites. “There’s one whale, Cork, that we really like,” Carney says. “He’s been coming around since we started 15 years ago. We really like a minke whale called Slice. He’s also been here 15 years. He has a little chip on his dorsal fin as well, so he’s pretty recognizable.”

“Last year we had a really fun summer,” Carney continues. “A couple humpback moms brought their babies. We were able to watch the mom train the baby with the different behaviours: breaching, tail and fin flapping. We’d see the moms jump out of the water, then we’d watch the baby jump, learning the same thing. They have their own personalities you get to know.”

Joanne Carney of Jolly Breeze Whale Watching.

She and her husband Rob recognize some of the regular whales and give them nicknames.

It’s obvious that Joanne and the others at Jolly Breeze have grown close to these animals, visiting their summer home. “The whales are a big part of my life,” Carney says. “I just love getting out and seeing all the regulars and who’s brought babies. It’s like welcoming your family back.”

A couple of satisfying hours slip by. We spot a grey whale. Porpoises play around the boat. Carney says these are the birthing and feeding grounds for harbour porpoise.

Grey and harbour seals hang out in the area.

As we pick our way from sighting to sighting back toward Saint Andrews, we come across a few puffins bobbing around.

“Machias Seal Island south of Grand Manan is a well-known nesting area for puffins,” Carney says. “Thousands go there every spring. Generally, they’re known in Greenland, Norway and Iceland, but we get their outer range.”

Truly Spectacular!

A nature-lovers can’t miss coastal experience on the world-famous Bay of Fundy

1.866.386.3987

www.fundytrailparkway.com

NEW BRUNSWICK

17

At last, it’s time to head in. We pass the Jolly Breeze again. Carney says of their tall ship option, “That kind of tour suits everybody. It’s a slow, relaxed trip. People feel really comfortable on board, even if they’re afraid of the water.” When it came time to expand their fleet to meet growing demand, the Carneys went for powerful jet drive Zodiacs like the Jolly Hurricane. “We wanted to add a new kind of adventure that would appeal to people that prefer something a little speedier, more adventurous.”

I check to see if my tongue is hanging out the side of my mouth, that I really don’t look like a dog with its head out the window because I think when Carney says the Jolly Hurricane is a little speedier, she must be comparing it to a sports car, not a tall ship.

Here’s where to find whale watching tours in Atlantic Canada Nova Scotia Bay St. Lawrence, Cape Breton Island Pleasant Bay, Cape Breton Island Ingonish, Cape Breton Island Neil’s Harbour, Cape Breton Island Cheticamp, Cape Breton Island Inverness, Cape Breton Island Eastern Passage in Halifax Westport, Brier Island near Digby Tiverton, Long Island near Digby East Ferry near Digby New Brunswick Saint Andrews Grand Manan Island Campobello Island

Newfoundland and Labrador Battle Harbour, Labrador Red Bay, Labrador Point Amour, Labrador Strait of Belle Isle St. Anthony Bonne Bay White Bay Twillingate Cape Bonavista Trinity St. John’s Witless Bay Cape Race St. Vincent’s Beach Cape St. Mary’s

PEI Souris Naufrage

You can pick your adventure when whalewatching with the Carneys: the more sedate trip on board the cutter Jolly Breeze, or speed it up with the Jolly Hurricane.

18

NEW BRUNSWICK

Your Fundy coast Road Trip awaits you

T

he Bay of Fundy shapes much of the coastline of New Brunswick, its mighty tides carving out sea caves and sea stacks like the Hopewell Rocks, dramatic bays and inlets, sparkling beaches…and thrilling visitors with all of its natural wonders. With historic and thriving communities along its coastline, all with their distinct New Brunswick flavour, the Quebec Fundy region is ideal for adventures.

Whether you’re on a day trip and want to take in the Fundy Trail Parkway, or stay longer and explore Fundy National Park and the cities and towns along the Bay, there’s something for everyone.

Enjoy fine cuisine in one of the communities along the Bay, take in historic glimpses of our recent and ancient past through one of the UNESCO sites, enjoy whale watching or hiking, beachcombing or wine tasting…There is a world of wonders awaiting you along our Fundy coastline.

New Brunswick Prince Edward Island

Nova Scotia

ADVERTISING FEATURE

19

Magic Mountain

Y

Euston Park Social

Tide and Boar Gastropub

Moncton, the hub city

our Bay of Fundy adventure begins with the city of Moncton and its neighbours, Dieppe and Riverview.

Nestled alongside the Petitcodiac River with its unusual Tidal Bore, Moncton is the place to pause, refresh, relax and take in some of the city’s myriad attractions.

With great entertainment and shopping, charming spa escapes and unique cultural sites like Resurgo place, Moncton offers many charms for any sort of adventurer, whether you’re travelling with family, as a couple, or as a group of friends on a getaway. For some outdoor fun, be sure to check out the marvelous wall murals dotted throughout the city, visit the Magnetic Hill Winery and nearby attractions, and stretch your legs on any of the trails in our parks in and around Moncton.

New this year, the Atlantic Ballet Atlantique Canada focuses on innovative works—including exclusive outdoor performances this summer by the ocean!

Whether you’re a fan of fine cuisine or excellent farmers markets, those who want a taste of local will find something here to please you. Some new local favourites in the Hub City include Halo Donuts, for perfectly handmade road trip snacking; Epoch Chemistry for educational (and tasty!) coffee tastings; Atelier Tony for an elevated weekend brunch; or Clos for a seasonal tasting menu.

If you are a craft beer aficionado, the scene is thriving—and the brews are flowing—at assorted breweries, gastropubs and taprooms around the city and beyond: Tire Shack Brewing, Cavok, Flying Boats, Pumphouse, Tide and Boar, and Holy Whale—just to name a few!

And if you’re staying in Moncton for a few days, spend some time exploring local communities including Hillsborough, which boasts the New Brunswick Railway Museum as well as the Steeves House Museum.

THE FLOWERPOTS OF HOPEWELL ROCKS

TOURISM NEW BRUNSWICK / NIGEL FEARON

No visit to the Fundy coastline of New Brunswick is complete without a trip to Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park. Here, depending on the time of your arrival, you can walk on the ocean floor among the many giant sandstone sea stacks, known as the flowerpots scattered along the coast. These flowerpots have stood for thousands of years, although the tidal motion makes for ever-evolving structures and shapes.

Hopewell Rocks is a self-directed park with well-trained staff on hand to answer questions; an excellent Interpretive centre; gentle walking trails, great gift shop, and assorted viewing lookoffs.

For the full experience, try the guided kayak adventure at high tide. Located just under an hour from the city of Moncton.

20

ADVERTISING FEATURE

WEAR ‘EM OUT FAMILY DAY PACKAGE

From $389.00 per family, including two adults & two children, this package includes family entrance to discover the award-winning Magnetic Hill Zoo in Moncton, Hopewell Rocks, and more. A freshly packed lunch is provided.

www.abconnect.ca 506-232-1057 hello@abconnect.ca

REVISIT MONCTON Book a two-night stay at participating Greater Moncton Hotels and receive a FREE $50 Downtown Moncton gift card.

Valid May 21- September 6, 2021. www.visitgreatermoncton.com to book!

Hotel/direct bookings only – Minimum rates and exceptions apply – Does not apply to group reservations – Limited number of gift cards available

Walton Glen Gorge Lookout

T

The Fundy Trail Parkway

he Fundy Trail Parkway is a 6,323 acre/2,559 hectare seasonally-open park that hugs the southern coastline of New Brunswick, curving like a necklace along the mighty Bay of Fundy and the world’s highest tides. The park features everything that eco adventurers could want—breathtaking views, pristine beaches, hiking and biking trails for all skill levels, gorgeous waterfalls, geological wonders—and connecting all this natural wonder is the paved Parkway through the area. Whether you have only a couple of hours to drive through, or are planning numerous outings during your visit, the parkway is full of gems waiting to be explored.

Enter the Parkway at St. Martins; or opt for the eastern entrance from Sussex. Both options connect to each other, giving you access to stop along the Parkway as you wish. This year, a new section will open that runs all the way to Alma and to the entrance of Fundy National Park.

If you’re looking for help as you plan out your itinerary, the interpretation centre located approximately 10 km into the park

from the St. Martins entrance. Helpful staff, snacks, washrooms and a historic interpretive center awaits.

Local favourites along the parkway for take-your-cameraout moments include the Suspension Footbridge, Walton Glen Gorge Falls, the Hairpin Turn Lookout and the Sea Captain’s Burial Ground Footpath.

So many of the attractions of the Fundy coast are now linked and accessible from the Parkway—the communities of St. Andrews, Alma and St. Martins, the Hopewell Rocks, the cities of Saint John and Moncton. You aren’t far from access to Deer Island, Campobello and Grand Manan islands out in the Bay, all must-visit attractions in themselves.

In addition, the Fundy Trail Parkway is home to two UNESCO sites: the Stonehammer Global Geopark, the first so designated in North America, and the UNESCO Fundy Biosphere Reserve.

You can lose yourself in the natural wonders to be found along the Parkway, which is being favourably compared to the Viking Trail in Newfoundland and Labrador and Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail as a must-do adventure. Come and “sea” for yourselves!

HISTORIC ALMA

BAY OF FUNDY TRAIL Get up close to the beauty of the Bay of Fundy. This 6 hour tour includes stops at the reversing falls rapids in Saint John, the Fundy Trail Parkway, and St. Martins.

www.freedomtours.com Please call for pricing 800-561-2324

WORLD OF WONDERS-ALMA Experience the Bay of Fundy like a Local From $272.00 per person, including one night accommodations. Explore the St. Martins sea caves, fat biking in Fundy National Park, the fishing village of Alma, Hopewell Rocks and the Fundy Trail Parkway.

www.abconnect.ca 506-232-1057 hello@abconnect.ca

Imagine making your living from the sea in the charming village of Alma, at the confluence of Chignecto Bay and the Upper Salmon River. Today, you go out in your lobster boat at 5am; tomorrow 6am, and in a few short days, you’ll be going to work in the evening. It all depends on tide times, which change each day! Alma is an important fishing community, with lobster and scallop harvesters working out of its harbour, providing the freshest of seafood. Get ready to sit back at one of the local restaurants and indulge in the freshly caught fare. Quaint shops, breweries and famous sticky buns are also not to miss while you are in the area. It is also the gateway to Fundy National Park, and soon the eastern access point for the Fundy Trail Parkway.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

21

Sussex Ale Works

Sully’s Ice Cream Parlour

Downtown murals

Sussex: where agriculture meets the arts N estled in the rolling green heartland of New Brunswick’s agricultural centrepiece, the town of Sussex celebrates local farmers—especially dairy producers—as well as its history and culture. The province’s three main cities are all within a 90-minute drive of Sussex, making it a great day trip or vacation destination. Sussex is also easily accessed from the Fundy Trail Parkway, and indeed is a midway point between the Parkway and Fundy National Park.

Take a drive, a stroll or a bike ride through Sussex’s downtown to enjoy the striking murals painted on many of its businesses; Find treasures in one of the many local shops, from outdoor gear at Outdoor Elements, natural soap and skincare at Elysian,

22

ADVERTISING FEATURE

cosy handcrafted textiles at Legacy Lane and gourmet fudge at Cobblers Lane Fudge Factory. With the many artisans and shops, it’s safe to say that the arts are at the heart of this town.

Feeling inspired? Head to the AX: The Arts and Culture Centre of Sussex, where you will find various workshops on painting and ceramics on top of the rotating art exhibitions.

If you’re a history buff, make sure to visit the Agricultural Museum of New Brunswick as well as the 8th Hussars Military Museum.

When you’ve refreshed yourself in this charming town, it’s back on the highway and on the road to Fundy National Park and associated wonders!

Sea caves and culinary delights in St. Martins

S

cenic and historic St. Martins lays claim to being the “anchor to the Fundy Trail Parkway,” as until recently visitors could only enter the Parkway from the community.

St. Martins is part of the UNESCO-designated Fundy Biosphere Reserve and Stonehammer UNESCO Geopark, recognizing their vital and unique landscapes, geology and ecosystems. It’s also a village bustling with great food, friendly local artists, wonderful shops and shopkeepers, and more!

The community has a proud sea-faring history, having been home to a family of shipbuilders in the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries: nearly 500 ships were built in St. Martins during the Age of Sail. Today, that history is commemorated by the Quaco Museum but also celebrated through the community’s fishers and through adventure tourism.

Walk on the sea floor at low tide and explore the remarkable sea caves nestled along the red rock cliffs, then head out on a guided kayak outing around and into those same caves at high water with Red Rock Adventure.

ST. MARTINS & ALMA Starting from $189 per person based on double occupancy. Includes one night accommodation in St. Martins with breakfast and picnic lunch, Fundy Trail Parkway passes, and one night accommodation in Alma.

www.kefitravel.ca 1-888-680-6930 info@kefitravel.ca

For a truly unforgettable fine dining experience, indulge in this exclusive opportunity of dining on the ocean floor, in the Sea Caves at low tide. A five courses meal awaits, with locally inspired creations served up by The Kilted Chef, Alain Bossé.

Of course, you won’t want to miss out on the seafood chowder wars, (friendly rivalry between restaurants), or the delectable lobster rolls at seaside shacks. Which ones will be your new favourite?

Stay at one of the fine camping facilities around the community, such as Century Farm Family Campground, Seaside Campground or Fundy Woods Campground & Cottages.

If you prefer a little more luxury, stay at one of the Inns, vacation homes, or Bed and Breakfasts available to visitors. The Beach Street Inn, St. Martins Country Inn, or Salmon River B&B are all fantastic options in the area.

Don’t forget to pick your favourite flavour at Octopus Ice Cream on the wharf before heading out to your next destination!

FUNDY COAST TO FUNDY SHORE This 5 hour tour brings you to the seaside community of St. Martins, followed by the Reversing falls and Old City Market in the heart of Saint John

www.freedomtours.com Please call for pricing 800-561-2324

ADVERTISING FEATURE

23

DISCOVER SAINT JOHN

Princess Street

Irving Nature Park

Saint John is Saint Awesome T he historic and fascinating city of Saint John (also known as #SaintAwesome) needs to be on your Fundy adventure list for 2021. Nestled along the Saint John River, and the only city on the mighty Bay of Fundy, Saint John offers so much to see and do, you’ll barely have time to sleep.

From the cultural and natural history wonders of the New Brunswick Museum, to the Carleton Martello Tower National Historic Site, get to know about Saint John’s storied past as you also experience its thriving present. For a look at pre-human history, be sure to explore the Stonehammer UNESCO Global Geopark, where a billion years-worth of stories are waiting for you to discover them.

Saint John is home to the one of the longest continuously operated farmers markets in Canada, where you’ll find food from local producers, great coffee and tea, inspired work by artisans, and a great meeting place to sit and gab with friends.

Once you’ve had a snack, stroll along the waterfront and explore

FUNDY HARBOUR’S HIDDEN GEMS

SAINT JOHN #SAINTAWESOME from $109 per person based on double occupancy. Includes two nights’ accommodations, wine tasting for two at Uncorked, and parking.

Experience the hidden gems of the Bay of Fundy coastline. Stops include Lepreau Falls, New River Beach, St.George, the Reversing Falls Rapids and Beaver Harbour.

www.freedomtours.com Please call for pricing 800-561-2324

24

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Market Square or Harbour Passage and make your way to the Reversing Falls Rapids.

No visit to Saint John is complete without spending some time exploring uptown Saint John, where some of the finest in shopping, dining and public art await you. Over a dozen art galleries, many focused on locally created arts and crafts, are housed in historic buildings. Go gallery hopping for an afternoon and check out Paris Crew, Trinity Galleries, Jones Gallery, and the Spicer Merrifield Gallery—to name a few. If shopping is more your thing, Lordon, Urban Shoe Myth, Tuck Studio, and In Pursuit are well worth exploring. If you’ve worked up an appetite after all that shopping, Italian by Night, Vegolution, Port City Royal or East Coast Bistro are sure to satisfy your cravings!

When you want to get away to nature, you’ve plenty of choices, including the Irving Nature Park, Rockwood Park, and any of a number of great golf courses in town or nearby.

Italian by Night

www.kefitravel.ca 1-888-680-6930 info@kefitravel.ca

2-NIGHT SPECIAL

SAINT JOHN

Enjoy a resort feel with the fam, including breakfast, pool times, snacks, early checkins and late check-outs, as well as $50 Uptown Dollars.

From $629.00 for 2 people, including 2 nights’ accommodations. Explore the Saint John City Market and local shops, a tour of choice with Uncorked Tours, and dinner for two voucher at Italian By Night.

- UNCORKED!

2 night stay, $239.99+tax, weekends until July 31.

www.bestwesternsj.ca 506-657-9966

HARBOUR HAVEN PACKAGE Experience New Brunswick’s unique urban waterfront. Wine upon arrival, breakfast for two, fantastic patio seating and $50 Uptown Dollars.

PANORAMIC VIEWS AT

HILLSIDE MOTEL Take in the panoramic views of the Bay of Fundy, enjoy a meal from Pizza Delight, and explore the uptown with $50 Uptown Dollars.

2 night stay, $150.

www.abconnect.ca 506-232-1057 hello@abconnect.ca

SHOP & STAY Plan to shop your Saint John stay away thanks to Hampton Inn by Hilton Saint John, with a $25 Costco Gift card and $50 Uptown Dollars.

www.hillsidemotelnb.com 506-672-1273 / 1-888-625-7070

ROAD TRIP GAS & GO Stay at the Hampton Inn by Hilton Saint John and save with a $25 gas card and $50 Uptown Dollars, perfect for the next Saint John road trip!

Minimum 2 night stay, $149/night.

Minumim 2 night stay, $129/night on weeknights, $139/night on weekends.

www.hilton.com 506-693-8484

www.guestreservations.com 506-657-4600

www.guestreservations.com 506-657-4600

EXPLORE UPTOWN PACKAGE

STAY & PLAY

ALL INCLUSIVE IN

UPTOWN SAINT JOHN

Induldge in breakfast for two and a $50 Mix RestoBar credit daily. Explore the uptown and treat yourself with $50 Uptown Dollars.

A great location in the heart of uptown, including breakfast for two daily, complimentary parking, and $50 Uptown Dollars.

Minimum 2 night stay, $179/night.

Minimum 2 night stay, $139/night.

www.marriott.com 506-648-1981 reservations@deltasaintjohn.com

www.marriott.com 506-648-1981 reservations@deltasaintjohn.com

Minumim 2 night stay, $109/night on weeknights, $114/night on weekends.

More like stay and dine! Enjoy a $50 Gahan House Port City Giftcard as well as $50 Uptown Dollars, just a 5 minute drive/15 minute walk away.

From $299, minimum 2 night stay.

www.hiexpress.com 506-642-2622

Saint Andrews By-the-Sea N

estled on the shores of the Passamaquoddy Bay, Saint Andrews By-the-Sea is a National Historic Site steeped in unique architecture. It’s also a modern, thriving base for scientific study with three nearby research stations, a culinary gem with fine dining of all kinds, and a scintillating place to visit and explore.

If being on the ocean is a passion, check out the various excursions, from whale watching on a highspeed Zodiac with Jolly Breeze and Island Quest Marine, or try shark tagging with Saint Andrews Sport Fishing Co. For sea discoveries on land, make a trip to the Huntsman Marine Centre featuring the Fundy Discovery Aquarium.

Stroll around historic Water Street on the waterfront to find streets filled with colourful flower beds and charming shops offering locally made goods and artworks. The century-plus buildings and homes will lead the way towards an enchanting visit to Kingsbrae Garden, where 27 acres of unique-themed plantings are waiting to be explored. Be sure to bring your appetite to the Garden Café, or to Savour in the Garden. You can also enjoy a picnic on the grounds, with a basket packed with goodies from the restaurants.

Saint Andrews By-the-Sea boasts a cornucopia of culinary delights. From delightful coffee at Honeybeans, to exquisite fine dining at the Rossmount Inn, to fresh local seafood—including, of course, lobster! Many restaurants located on Water Street

offer views of the Bay to complement your meal—the Gables, Old Thyme Pizza and Seasons by the Sea Bistro are some local favourites!

Saint Andrews By-the-Sea offers a full range of accommodation choices, from campgrounds and cottages to bed & breakfast locations to a range of modern and historic inns. The jewel in the crown is the Algonquin Resort, which has been welcoming guests since 1889, and features everything from a world-class golf course to a delightful full-service spa and a selection of dining options.

ISLAND HOPPING, FUNDY STYLE

SAINT ANDREWS BY-THE-SEA Starting from $235 per person based on double occupancy. Includes two nights’ accommodations, daily breakfast, $75 gift certificate for the Chandler Room, and passes for Ministers Island.

TOURISM NEW BRUNSWICK

www.kefitravel.ca 1-888-680-6930 info@kefitravel.ca

26

ADVERTISING FEATURE

If you’re an outdoor enthusiast looking to get away from it all, the breathtaking sceneries of the Fundy Isles are waiting for you! This collection of some two dozen islands sits at the mouth of the Bay of Fundy and has three main inhabited islands: Grand Manan, Campobello and Deere Islands. They are accessible by daily ferries and you can spend days in tranquil exploration.

Epic sunsets, numerous lighthouses, and exciting marine wildlife sightings are to be expected on your trip through the islands. Charming cottages, B&B’s, camping and motel options are available throughout the islands.

Each island offers a unique stay and experience. Those looking for more accessible comfort, shops and amenities with great hiking, head towards Grand Manan. The Anchorage Provincial Park offers fantastic camping lots with access to the gentle walking trails.

If you have an interest in history, plan our your ferry crossings in the direction of Campobello Island. A highlight of any trip here will be the Roosevelt Campobello International Park, where you can explore the grounds of Franklin D. Roosevelt summer home, overlooking Maine, USA. From there, check out Herring Cove Provincial Park for sandy beach access, a 9-hole golf course and campground.

For a quiet retreat with fantastic kayaking, go exploring Deer Island. Better yet, carve out some time and visit all three!

Get out of town: short drives from St. John’s From iceburgs to grottos, just out “round the bay”

BY DARCY RHYNO

I

t’s a gloomy, blustery day with rain threatening, but when I see them, I can’t help but stop the car and head down to the water’s edge. A dozen curious onlookers are crowded onto a rock, gazing out over a small iceberg anchored on the rocky bottom of Deadman’s Bay on Newfoundland’s east coast. Two smaller chunks of ice float nearby and a larger iceberg lurks in the distance.

The icebergs and the weather magnify the impression that this is a raw place exposed more than most to the elements.

Icebergs are common here, but visitors to Newfoundland like me and the other dozen onlookers find them mysterious

and haunting. All four of these bergs were calved off a Greenland glacier two or three years ago and have drifted nearly 3,000 kilometres so far. The one offshore still has far to go before it will completely melt in the warm Gulf Stream waters southeast of here, but the other three are at the end of their journey.

Back in the car, I head to my destination just a few more kilometres down the road, a rocky bluff that is literally the edge of North America: Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site. This is the most easterly point of land on the continent. I climb up to the top of the craggy cliff to the province’s oldest

surviving lighthouse. Looking north along the coast, I spot the offshore iceberg and beyond it, the mouth of St. John’s harbour.

Worlds away, minutes from downtown Passing icebergs add to the lonely atmosphere at Cape Spear, a place that feels so isolated, it’s a bit jarring to remember that this beacon on the cliff top is just a 15-minute drive from downtown St. John’s, the capital city of Newfoundland and Labrador. St. John’s is that kind of city—a small enclave in a remote, sometimes forbidding corner of the world.

Cape Spear Lighthouse is located on the

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR TOURISM

most easternly point in North America.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

27

DESTINATION ST. JOHN’S

DARCY RHYNO

Raymonds

The city itself is a lively place with a thriving cultural community and culinary scene. Restaurants like Mallard Cottage, Chinched and Raymonds are known across Canada and beyond for their contemporary cuisine with a Newfoundland flair. The pulse of St. John’s can be found in theatres like the Spirit of Newfoundland, at historic landmarks like Signal Hill and inside the impressive museum and galleries at The Rooms. The nightlife on George Street and one-of-a-kind events like the Mummers Festival pulsate at the heart of this exhilarating city.

Short drives in almost any direction reward the adventurer with sights and scenery that feel a thousand miles away from any city. Some spots feel like living postcards, others like history books waiting to be opened, and still others like outdoor museums. Continuing south from Cape Spear, four islands make up the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, the nesting area for the largest puffin colony in North America at a quarter million pairs. It’s also one of the best whale-watching locations in the province.

Tour operators in all manner of craft guide visitors to wildlife spectacles on a grand scale—breaching humpback whales, clouds

28

of clown-faced puffins, and a cacophony of kittiwakes, murres and other seabirds.

Mine shafts and butter pots West of the city, catch the ferry at Portugal Cove for the short 20-minute cruise aboard the little car carrier to Bell Island, population 2,500. The town of Wabana was once six times that size when an iron ore mining company employed thousands. The mines were closed half a century ago, but the Bell Island Community Museum tells the whole story during their “No. 2 Mine Tour.” Visitors descend over 200 metres into the mine and hear stories of the men and boys who worked so hard while risking their lives to make a living.

While on the island, check out the Bell Island Lighthouse for the views and the onsite café where you can find a sandwich and a bowl of chowder. For hardier fare, the locally renowned Dicks’ Fish and Chips has been around since 1950. Loyal customers say their local cod and French fries are the best anywhere. Alternatively, board the return ferry and try one of several eateries in and around Portugal Cove, where the seafood is fresh and the service is Newfoundland-friendly.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

DESTINATION ST. JOHN’S

DESTINATION ST. JOHN’S

Mallard Cottage

The province is well known for its colourful place names, among them Butter Pot Provincial Park southwest of the city on the Trans Canada Highway. This little park is peppered with ponds and has many kilometres of hiking trails, a campground, picnic areas and swimming holes. The main attraction is the panoramic view from the rounded hilltop or “butter pot” where the landscape itself is a lesson in natural history. Erratics or boulders left behind by a retreating glacier are sprinkled about the landscape. You might even spot a moose from up there.

For one more edge-of-the-world experience near the capital, I drive Route 20 north to Flatrock, just south of Murdering Gulch. A curious religious site has drawn me here. Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto might look like it belongs on a lonely mountain road in the Pyrenees or the Alps, but here it is in Newfoundland, with statues of St. Bernadette and St. Michael, the patron saint of the community. In 1984, Pope John Paul II visited and prayed here.

Further along the road, I arrive at Cape St. Francis, a rocky finger marking the southern entrance to Conception Bay. The remains of the light keeper’s house and tower still

A view of Signal Hill and The Narrows of St. John’s Harbour, from The Rooms museum and gallery.

SALLY LEDREW

Witless Bay Ecological Reserve

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR TOURISM / © BARRETT & MACKAY PHOTO

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR TOURISM / © BARRETT & MACKAY PHOTO

Atlantic Puffin landing in water,

Signal Hill stands watch over St. John’s and has great hiking

DESTINATION ST. JOHN’S

trails as well as history.

Lobster Linguine Tutto Mare Makes 5-6 servings

stand on the promontory. Like Cape Spear and Deadman’s Bay, Cape St. Francis is on the 336-kilometre East Coast Hiking Trail.

All three are places of extremes where time seems irrelevant and the great forces of the natural world embodied in passing icebergs, spouting whales and crashing waves carry on through the eons, paying no heed to humans.

It’s a place to feel humbled, and at the same time privileged to witness the grandeur of nature, and yet a place within easy reach of the capital city, making a stay in Newfoundland’s most easterly reaches a complete experience.

Ingredients 500 g dry linguine pasta ¼ cup dry white wine 1 large carrot, peeled and diced 1 medium onion, peeled and diced ¼ cup olive oil 2 medium tomatoes, peeled and seeded ½ cup mushrooms, sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped ¼ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped 1 cup vegetable or shellfish stock ¼ cup butter

shaved Parmesan to taste 5 – 1 ½ lb Lobsters, precooked and shelled.

(If desired, add other seafood like shrimp, shelled mussels.)

Method In 8 cups of salted water, cook the linguine until al dente. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Sauté onion and carrot until soft, about 3 minutes.

Add mushrooms, garlic, salt and pepper. Toss.

Lower the heat and cook until liquid evaporates, about 3 minutes.

Add white wine and reduce for 5 minutes.

Add tomatoes, simmer for 7 minutes.

Add lobster meat (except the tails) and simmer with the stock and most of the parsley.

Add linguine just prior to serving to distribute the flavours.

In a separate pan, melt the butter.

Gently poach the lobster tails until just heated through.

Place the linguine mixture in bowls.

Top with lobster tails. Shave some Parmesan Reggiano on the top. Sprinkle with parsley and cracked pepper.

This recipe is one version of the “Bowl of Goodness” by Chef Colleen Hiscock at Java Jack’s in Rocky Harbour, Newfoundland. She also runs The Supper Club Newfoundland with outlets in Rocky Harbour and in St. John’s. Find it online at supperclubnl.ca. Watch for her cookbook coming soon.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

29

The Newfoundland Distillery Company celebrates local flavours

BY DENISE FLINT

P

eter Wilkins didn’t expect it to be so much work. The internationally renowned artist was living in the small outport of Clarke’s Beach on Newfoundland and Labrador’s Avalon Peninsula when his friend William Carter, a Cordon Bleu chef based in Ottawa, broached the idea of starting a distillery together. Wilkins could easily envision himself, gin and tonic in hand, sitting beside a vat of booze and watching it turn into something drinkable. He was in.

Unfortunately, it didn’t quite turn out that way; and Wilkins discovered that starting and running a successful distillery is a lot a work—especially in Newfoundland where it’s never been done before. That’s not to say he regrets his decision. When talking about the products the Newfoundland Distillery Company has produced since its 2016 start, Wilkins waxes both eloquent and enthusiastic. But he does laugh at his naïve vision of just sitting back and letting it all happen around him.

Newfoundlanders have always had a taste for rum. One out of every two bottles of liquor purchased at the NLC (Newfound-

30

land Liquor Commission) is rum. What they haven’t had is a way to produce their own, given that the climate of the North Atlantic isn’t exactly conducive to sugar cane cultivation. Wilkins and Carter originally considered the idea of importing the raw ingredients and distilling rum but were dissuaded by a number of advisors. They decided to import the rum and then add their own twist. One of the results is gun powder and rose rum, which is exactly as exotic and over the top as it sounds.

Wilkins enjoys telling the tale of how such an unusual combination of flavours came into existence. Back in the days when Britannia ruled the waves, sailors were given a tot of rum as part of their rations. Occasionally a suspicion would arise that the purser was watering the rum down, which didn’t go down well with men who had very little else to look forward to during the course of the day but their ration. The purser, therefore, would sometimes sprinkle gunpowder on the surface of the rum and set it on fire as proof of its strength, hence the term.

Thus arose the idea of flavouring their

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

WELLCOME IMAGES (CC BY 4.0)

The little enGINe that could

rum with gunpowder, a substance whose “Ingredients are healthy, but not allowed,” to Wilkins’ obvious disappointment. Instead, they substitute sea salt, charred birch and kelp, all locally sourced, which imparts a similar flavour. The sulphuric taste is softened by the addition of wild roses. The story goes that the notorious pirate, Captain Blackbeard, used to drink gunpowderlaced rum, still smoking, when boarding a captured ship in order to terrify the embattled sailors. Chances seem good that he wouldn’t approve the modern take on his favourite tipple, but it’s probably safe to say that most people these days are quite happy with imitation explosives.

For those less inclined to drama, their chaga rum, made with local honey and a kind of mushroom found in central Newfoundland, has won numerous awards, including best Canadian spiced rum at the world rum awards.

But adding botanicals isn’t distilling.

The pair still wanted to make their own liquor from scratch, and they wanted to do it using local ingredients. Although sugar

THE NEWFOUNDLAND DISTILLERY CO

Clarke’s Beach is home to the Newfoundland Distillery Company, whose award-winning new products are turning heads and winning fans (and awards).

cane won’t grow in Newfoundland, barley can be persuaded to do so. When the partners discovered it was being grown on an experimental level on the west coast of the island they committed to purchasing the entire crop to make gin. The distilling part of the distillery was on its way.

Gin is traditionally flavoured with juniper berries; in fact in most countries it’s legally required to contain juniper berries, and the gin produced in the massive steel containers in Clarke’s Beach is no exception. But after that the sky (or the ground or the water) is the limit and this is where Carter’s experimentation with adding unusual botanicals puts a unique Newfoundland stamp on the product. The result is cloudberry (aka bakeapples, to Newfoundlanders) gin and seaweed gin.

Upping their distilling game, The Newfoundland Distillery Company also produces vodka (which comes in rhubarb flavour) and aquavit, a kind of light

whisky-type drink popular in northern Europe, and a range of bitters with such flavours as seaweed and nettle or chaga and chanterelle. Last year when supplies dried up, they even produced hand sanitizer for the local market.

Although visitors are not allowed to tour the distillery itself since it’s always in use, glass walls allow the public a glimpse of what lies inside. And being on the outside of the glass is no hardship for the casual viewer. The Newfoundland Distillery Co. literally sits on the pebbled shore of Clarke’s Beach overlooking the scenic Bay de Grave.

Sitting at a picnic table on a summer’s day one can watch the alcohol being made on one side and then, with a slight turn of the head, savour the sight of the ocean lapping at one’s feet on the other.

On less balmy days—and this is Newfoundland after all, so the possibility always exists—a large lounge filled with antique tables and chairs (and an enormous

bar) also boasts panoramic views. Visitors can order a sampling of the alcohols available as well as one of many cocktails (the Cloudberry Orangesicle, made with cloudberry gin, is well worth the trip to Clarke’s Beach on its own—just saying).

Not content with simply sourcing their ingredients locally, Wilkins and Carter have tapped into the local food supply chain.

A selection of artisan cheese, bread and meats from the surrounding area can be ordered to help balance out the alcohol.

Now the pair has started work on a native Newfoundland whisky, something no one in Newfoundland has done before. It takes three years for a liquor to be considered whisky—longer for it to age to any degree.

They’re now eight months into the process as the liquid sits in individual casks slowly turning into something drinkable.

Wilkins doesn’t mind. Gin and tonic in hand, he’s willing to keep his eye on the process—for however long it takes.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

31

Stick your paddle in!

Sea kayaking in Newfoundland offers great scenery, and thrills to boot

BY DENISE FLINT

T

and Bartlett and his kayak landed safely, right side up, back on the surface of the water, no harm done. He laughs about it now but admits, “I didn’t know how that was going to turn out. It was an amazing experience—after the fact.”

Although Bartlett’s experience was the kind that only happens once in a lifetime— if then—sea kayaking in Newfoundland features on many bucket lists. And it’s not just for the opportunity to get close to the whales, although that certainly features in the equation.

Becky O’Keefe and her partner, Alex Chafe, run Wild Gros Morne on the island’s west coast. Their kayaking tours are based

in Bonne Bay, which O’Keefe calls the perfect location: a fjord where two glaciers met some 15,000 years ago.

Frequent animal sightings include humpbacks, minkes, white-sided dolphins, tuna and schools of mackerel that make the water look like it’s bubbling, as well as river otters and foxes on the secluded beaches that kayakers are able to access.

“It’s a lively area, but that’s a bonus,” says O’Keefe, whose company focusses on interpretation and education about the area. “The scenery is what’s special about Bonne Bay. You’re seeing the layers of colour, with great views of Gros Morne Mountain and all the little communities,

NANCY NEUMAN

BIGSTOCK/PIXELSAWAY

he humpback didn’t exactly come out of nowhere. “Skipper” Bob Bartlett, owner of Trinity Eco-Tours in Trinity, Newfoundland, had been watching it approach. A member of his tour group had just asked if a whale ever came too close to the kayaks and he was patiently explaining that the animal knew what it was doing, knew where the kayaks were and would never do such a thing.

“I didn’t have the words out of my mouth when I was picked up,” he exclaims. Bartlett found himself riding the whale’s back as it came up to blow. The animal submerged again almost immediately, possibly because it realised it had an inadvertent passenger,

Trinity Eco-Tours

32

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

You don’t need to be an experienced kayaker to take in one of these excursions; and the scenery

quintessential villages. It’s really a lovely, well-rounded place.”

Kayaking tours, which are limited to a maximum of 12 participants, last about two hours. However, participants are warned not to watch the clock or try to fit the tour into a packed itinerary. “If there’s stuff to watch, like a pod of dolphins, we’re going to watch it,” says O’Keefe.

That leisurely attitude is one of the draws of kayaking. Bartlett’s kayak tours are also meant to be an unrushed experience. “Some can do a tour in one hour and that’s not what you want because it’s a three-hour tour.”

The point is not to race to the end, but to enjoy the journey, since one of the big draws with kayaking is the immersive experience.

There’s no motor coming between you and the sounds of nature and you’re practically at eye level with the water, not metres above it. If there’s something to see, hear or even touch you’ll find it. “In the little coves where it’s shallow and you look down there’s so much there to see,” says O’Keefe.

That unhurried approach makes kayaking a great pastime for all the people who prefer potato chips to pilates or whose more athletic days are behind them. Kayaking is for all ages and abilities.

It’s low impact and doesn’t require a great deal of strength. Basic mobility is all that’s required—and enthusiasm.

“You don’t have to be fit at all,” says Bartlett. Tours are tailored for the people doing the paddling and may include people of all different skill levels. In fact the majority of people trying kayaking for the first time are older adults.

When most people think of kayaking, they think of small single boats that can tip at the drop of a hat—or wave—and require some degree of skill on the part of the paddler to roll them back over again. That’s not the case with modern kayaks. Most sea kayaks are built for two people and are long, wide and stable. Tipping them is very difficult and if by chance one does manage to roll over the guides are trained and experienced in getting people out of the water and back into their kayak. Most of Bartlett’s and O’Keefe’s clients are first timers, and before any trip they are properly fitted out in wet suits and protective gear and given an introductory lesson on how to paddle.

The double kayaks are an added bonus for most adventurers because the majority of people who give it a whirl are couples who are able to share the boat and the experience. On the more practical side, since they share the paddling work, if one is fitter they can compensate for the other.

Perhaps it’s the outdoor equivalent to baking bread during pandemic times, but interest in kayaking has skyrocketed.

David Hickey is the president of Paddle Newfoundland and Labrador and he figures their numbers grew by 25 per cent in 2020.

Although the organisation is for all paddlers, kayakers dominate the ranks. Hickey says that, just like those who go on a commercial kayak tour, most people who get into kayaking as a hobby are older—usually aged 50 or more.

Some club members are strictly recreational, only going out on calm, clear days; others are more extreme, paddling

WILD GROS MORNE OUTDOOR EXPERIENCES

Norman’s Head

Water’s Edge Campground & Shoal Brook Lighthouse

Gros Morne

WILD GROS MORNE OUTDOOR EXPERIENCES

SHANE BAILEY

is breathtaking.

up to 35 kilometres a day and going on multi-day excursions.

For Hickey, who puts his kayak on the back of his truck in June and doesn’t take it off again for the entire season, kayaking in Newfoundland is just a case of “pick your spot.” However, he does think that Burgeo, on the south coast of the island, is the jewel in the crown.

Bartlett describes the jaw dropping experiences possible while paddling as “Discovery Channel moments.” Whether you’re after a close encounter with a pod of orcas, an isolated beach to pull up to for lunch or a simple boil up, or sea caves and the other side of waterfalls to explore, there’s something for everyone in a kayaking trip around Newfoundland.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

33

Take ’er slow From Port Aux Basques to St. Anthony

DARCY RHYNO

BY DARCY RHYNO

Road through Gros Morne National Park

T

ake ’er slow. That’s my mantra as I make the drive from ChannelPort aux Basques to St. Anthony on Newfoundland’s western coast. It’s early morning, and I’ve just disembarked from the MV Leif Ericson, one of the Marine Atlantic ferries that sails from Sydney, NS into Port aux Basques, on the island’s southwestern tip.

With a full day ahead of me, I’m keen to hit the highway for the 700-kilometre drive north to the two UNESCO World Heritage Sites drawing me like magnets up the coast: Gros Morne National Park, roughly halfway, and l’Anse aux Meadows at the end of the road. I resist the urge to drive straight through because I know there will be lots of rewards for an unhurried journey.

To practice the art of slowing down, I need a morning wakeup walk. One option is just 10 kilometres from the ferry terminal at JT Cheeseman Provincial Park, where I could stroll the white sand beach just beyond the campground. Or I could walk the beach at the mouth of the Grand Codroy River where the sandspit on either side of the causeway is now the Codroy Valley Provincial Park. I decide on Cheeseman, but only because it’s closer to the highway.

Refreshed, I head inland on the

34

Trans-Canada Highway for the 145-kilometre drive to the French Ancestor’s Route through Stephenville and out to the somewhat under-appreciated Port au Port Peninsula.

Crossing the narrow isthmus known as The Gravels, I drive the bold southern coast all the way to Cape St. George, the westernmost tip of Newfoundland.

Back in Stephenville, I check into my room, then head out for fish and chips and a craft beer at Clancy’s Pub. There’s live entertainment tonight—foot stomping traditional tunes—so it’s hard to tear myself away for curtain time at the Stephenville Theatre Festival, known for their rousing, frolicking performances with that folksy Newfoundland sense of humour.

The next morning, I head for Corner Brook, an hour north on the Trans-Canada and my first stop of the day, the Captain James Cook National Historic Site. The little park with his statue at the centre offers a panoramic view of the city below. I read on the interpretive panels that the great global explorer, better known for charting New Zealand before meeting his demise in Hawaii, also mapped coastal Newfoundland in the 1760s.

I check in at the Glynmill Inn for a

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

couple of days so I can thoroughly enjoy a city that bubbles with personality. I start in my favourite Corner Brook store, the Newfoundland Emporium, where I browse the books and poke about handmade items such as mummer dolls. Next, I explore the Railway Society of Newfoundland’s museum and its gleaming railway cars, including a steam locomotive. In the dining car, I get the sense that guests are just about to arrive, the tables are so carefully set with cutlery, wine glasses and menus on white tablecloths. In the evening, I check out the craft beers and craft cocktail bar at Bootleg Brew Co. Because it’s a coastal city next to the great Humber River Valley, Corner Brook attracts outdoor adventurers. There’s great hiking on the Mountain Trail and at Blow Me Down Provincial Park. In winter, Marble Mountain Ski Resort is probably the top skiing destination on the East Coast, and in summer, visitors come for the kayaking, zip lining and golfing.

When it’s time to hop back on the highway, the towns bordering Gros Morne National Park—Rocky Harbour, Norris Point and Woody Point—are just 90 minutes north. There’s so much to see and do here, it’s hard to prioritize. Hiking to the summit

CHRISTOPHER BAKER

The Arches Provincial Park

MORGAN TURNER-CROCKER

PARKS CANADA / DALE WILSON

PARKS CANADA / CHRIS REARDON

Tablelands

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR TOURISM/BARRETT & MACKAY PHOTO

l’Anse aux Meadows

Partridgeberry Gin Fizz from Bootleg Brew Co., Corner Brook, Newfoundland

Railway Society of Newfoundland’s museum

Think “Pink Gin Creamsicle.” The egg and cream add lots of texture when whip shaken and the soda creates a frothy, soufflé-like head, giving it that milkshake appearance. This cocktail is simultaneously creamy, silky, rich, light, citrusy and frothy. The brewery use local partridgeberries and their own house made hop soda water— see below for substitutes.

Recipe: 1 1/2 oz 1/2 oz 1 oz

of magnificent Gros Morne Mountain is a full day adventure, but the list of other hiking trails seems endless. I head for the Tablelands for my favourite easy hike. These barren, red valleys and flat mountains represent one of the few places on the planet where the Earth’s mantle has heaved to the surface. I take a magnificent boat tour up the freshwater fjord of Western Brook Pond to see the waterfalls. That evening, I laugh at the antics of the Anchors Away performers at the Ocean View Hotel and take the water taxi across Bonne Bay for a nightcap.

Back on the road, I stop at The Arches Provincial Park to walk beneath the gigantic seaside stone arches and, of course, grab a selfie for all my social media friends. Then it’s on to Port au Choix where thousands of years of human history unfold at a National Historic Site. Right in town, archeologists uncovered 4000-year-old burial grounds and evidence of Indigenous Archaic, Dorset, Groswater Paleoeskimo and Beothuk.

At The French Rooms Cultural Centre and the reception centre on the road to the Point Riche Lighthouse, I learn more about these waves of human habitation. In Le Malouin Cove, just a few minutes from town, costumed interpreters are baking at their

outdoor oven, a replica of those used 500 years ago by French fishermen. Hot from the oven, I slather rolls with local bakeapple and partridgeberry jam and devour them before taking time to admire the chaloupe, a replica of the first French fishing boats.

At last, I arrive at l’Anse aux Meadows, that second UNESCO World Heritage Site on Newfoundland’s western coast. This significant archeological site at the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula was home to European explorers 500 years before Columbus sailed across the Atlantic. I duck into the replica sod-covered habitation built here so long before permanent European settlement, and wonder at the skill and fortitude of those sailors.

Outside, I spot an iceberg offshore in Iceberg Alley, its great blue-white hulk like a mountainous ghost skulking down from Greenland like those early Viking explorers.

The next morning in St. Anthony, I greet the day with a smile when I remember that I get to retrace my steps south along the coast all the way back to Channel-Port aux Basques, exploring as I go.

Taking a deep breath, I head for the car, repeating my mantra, “Take ’er slow. Take ’er slow.”

1/2 oz 1/2 oz 1 oz 1 oz

Newfoundland Distillery Company Seaweed Gin Cointreau housemade partridgeberry syrup lemon juice lime juice egg white heavy cream Housemade hop soda to top (use regular soda) Frozen Newfoundland partridgeberries to garnish

Method: Add Seaweed Gin, Cointreau, partridgeberry syrup, lemon juice, lime juice, egg white and cream to a shaker.

Add 3 ice cubes and shake hard until the ice is completely melted and the cocktail is cold and aerated. Strain into a Collins glass. Slowly top with soda.

Garnish with 3 frozen partridgeberries and serve with a straw.

To make partridgeberry syrup, boil equal parts water and cane sugar.

Add whole berries. Blitz with a hand blender. Strain and cool. If partridgeberries aren’t available, try cranberries.

Substitute any carbonated water for the hop soda.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

35

YOUR CULINARY ADVENTURE STARTS HERE.

Off limits no longer Georges Island National Historic Park is a hot ticket

TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA / ACORN ART PHOTOGRAPHY

TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA / ACORN ART PHOTOGRAPHY

DALE DUNLOP

BY DALE DUNLOP

F

or more years than I care to remember, I would stroll the Halifax waterfront and stare out at Georges Island and wonder what it would be like to actually set foot on this historic and mystery-shrouded place. Up until the summer of 2020, that’s all one could do other than take a photo from the closest point of land on the Halifax boardwalk. Off limits to civilians for literally centuries, Parks Canada finally opened Georges Island National Historic Park to the public, and it is now one of the hottest tickets in Atlantic Canada. It turns out that pretty well everyone in the metro area had the same longings as I did to visit.

Georges Island is the perfect outdoor getaway. Here’s why you need to visit Georges Island and how to do it.

Located in Halifax Harbour, Georges Island is now a National Historic Park open to the public.

NOVA SCOTIA

37

Georges Island finally opened on August 6, 2020. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the opening was quite limited: the open hours were on weekends only from 11:20 to 5:00 until the season ended on October 11.

While you may take your own boat to the island when it is open, the vast majority of visitors will arrive by taking passage on one of the boats owned by Murphy’s on the Water. Subject to the pandemic, the 2021 season will open on June 19 and run through every weekend until mid-October.

Upon boarding you will be provided with a map with 22 points of interest that you can explore at your leisure. There are also a number of interpretive panels throughout the island, but you will get the most out a trip to Georges Island by taking a guided tour of the tunnels.

PARKS CANADA / @DAVEYANDSKY

Entrance to the Tunnels

38

NOVA SCOTIA

DALE DUNLOP

When Lord Cornwallis arrived in 1749, the strategic importance of the little island in the harbour was recognized. Now named Georges Island after King George II, the first of many fortifications was constructed.

These continued in one form or another right up until the end of WWII with the result that today the island is honeycombed with tunnels, underground batteries, storehouses and other manmade structures that were never open to the public during the time they were in active use.

In the past there were occasional events held on the island, but plans to restore and open Georges Island to the general public date back to 2009, when money was allocated for a new wharf and modernization of sewage, electrical and water systems.

Although there were multiple delays,

TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA / ACORN ART PHOTOGRAPHY

As landforms go, Georges Island (note there is no apostrophe) is a relative baby, dating back only to the last Ice Age which ended more than 10,000 years ago. As the glaciers receded, they left behind teardrop shaped deposits of boulders, clay, gravel and earth called drumlins, of which Georges Island is one. Its much larger big brother is the drumlin we now call Citadel Hill.

Very soon after the ice was gone, the first Indigenous peoples arrived and took advantage of the natural resources that abounded in one of the largest ice-free harbours in the Western Hemisphere, naming it K’jipuktuk or in English, “The Great Harbour”. The first name for Georges Island was Elpaqkwitk meaning “Water splashed on it by waves” and archaeological evidence of human occupation dates back millennia.

For such a small place there are a myriad of things to see, explore and learn about including the island’s history as a prison for Acadians and original burial place of the French admiral Duc D’Anville. You can get great photos of the Halifax waterfront and the Georges Island lighthouse, which has been guiding ships safely into the harbour for more than a century. However, the star attraction is undoubtedly Fort Charlotte, constructed under the orders of Edward, Duke of Kent; who also gave us the Town Clock and St. George’s Church.

Named for Edward’s mother, the fort has an actual moat and drawbridge to its only entrance. Inside you will find a prison where American privateers were held during the War of 1812, and battery placements on all four sides of the fort. These are great places from which to get photos of the harbour and waterfront. The fort also has some permanent residents you are very likely to come across during your visit: meadow voles and perfectly harmless garter snakes.

The primary attraction inside Fort Charlotte are the tunnels to which Parks Canada provides free guided tours. They are quite capacious and well-lit so claustrophobia should not be an issue. The tunnels lead to numerous munitions storerooms and defensive positions called caponiers from which defenders could fire upon potential attackers in complete safety. Fortunately, they were never put to use. There is also the Lower Battery embedded within the bowels of the fort that features four massive 10-inch cannons that guarded the harbour entrance. The view looking out from this battery is worth the price of admission alone.

Come enjoy a tasty Geopark experience fundygeopark.ca

extraordinary

For more information visit pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/ns/georges

Opposite page: Inside the Georges Island Tunnels; A guided tour of the Tunnels.

NOVA SCOTIA

39

The Essential East Coast Trio!

Telling stories about our communities, for our communities.

Starting as low as $17.99 +HST /year

Never miss an issue, subscribe today!

CALL: 1-833-600-2870 EMAIL: circulation@metroguide.ca USE CODE: GRPAD2021 athomeonthenorthshore.ca d @athomeonthenorthshore

saltscapes.com d @saltscapes

eastcoastliving.ca d @eastcoastmag

Nova Scotia’s Museum of Industry

DARCY RHYNO

BY DARCY RHYNO

The Cornish Pump at the Foord Pit outside the Museum of Industry

BIGSTOCK / NEW AFRICA

Big machines, big history

I

t’s April 29, 1950, a breezy spring day in Stellarton on Nova Scotia’s north shore. You’re hanging the laundry on the clothesline with your four-year-old daughter. It’s a Saturday, so her three older brothers are off somewhere, hopefully not getting into too much mischief.

Suddenly, the thing that every woman and mother in this mining town most fears happens yet again: the earth rumbles beneath your feet. For a moment, everything—even the drying laundry flapping in the breeze—seems to stop.

In the next moment, everything happens at once. You exhale the breath you didn’t know you were holding. Sirens wail. Women are screaming all over the neighbourhood.

Children are crying. People are running toward the Allan shaft that descends into the Foord coal seam not five minutes from your back yard.

You abandon the laundry, sweep your daughter into your arms and join the rush because your husband, the father of your four children, the only family income is down there, an impossible 200 storeys underground.

When you reach the shaft, the draegermen have already assembled. You set your daughter down, keeping a tight grip on her hand, and catch your breath. There is hope. These men are trained to descend into the smoky, fiery hell that is an exploded coal mine with the singular purpose of bringing to the surface the miners who survived and the remains of those who didn’t.

You gather with the other women and children to watch, wait and pray. You don’t wait long. The first survivors surface in the cage of their own accord. They tell the crowd it’s completely dark down there. Men have to find their way to the shaft from more than a kilometre away where they’re working at the coalface. Fathers and sons are reunited with their weeping and much relieved wives, children and mothers.

NOVA SCOTIA

41

DARCY RHYNO THE MUSEUM OF INDUSTRY

The Albion

Within 45 minutes, 72 miners have surfaced, none the worse for their ordeal.

That leaves seven unaccounted for—your husband is one of them. The draegermen descend. What seems like hours later, they surface with five of the seven, some of them injured. One says he led the others by feeling his way along the railway tracks.

As the draegermen prepare to rescue your husband and his co-worker, your daughter breaks free from your grip, forcing her way through the crowd to one of the draegermen. She tugs on his sleeve. When he looks down, she pleads, “Please bring my daddy home.”

They descend, your daughter’s face and words branded onto their hearts. What you don’t know is that they expect to find the two men dead. They battle through the carnage to the place they suspect they’ve been trapped. Sure enough, there they are, partially buried, but somehow still alive. An hour and a half later, they reach the surface, the last two men strapped to stretchers. That’s when the Earth rumbles

Paul Laland, interpreter in the Coal and Grit Gallery

again beneath your feet. The Allan shaft has exploded for a second time.

Big history With this story of disaster and rescue, interpreter Paul Laland, a retired history teacher, has his audience of half a dozen visitors to the Coal and Grit Gallery at the Museum of Industry hanging on his every word. The museum—a National Historic Site—stands on the very ground where in 1827, a British company established an English coal mining community and built a web of mine shafts and roads that followed the coal seams through the Earth’s crust.

The story of the Allan mine disaster of 1950 ends well, but nearly all of the 30 mines that operated here exploded sooner or later, many with staggering losses of life. Most recently, the heartbreaking Westray disaster of 1992 killed 26 miners.

For personal reasons, Laland is absolutely dedicated to his work of telling these stories.

“One of the deadliest was in the Drummond Mine,” Laland says. “That’s

where my grandfather was killed in 1873. It took 60 men and boys, some of them very young.”

Laland is renowned as the museum’s master storyteller, but he’s not the only one. The museum’s smoothly flowing layout pulls visitors effortlessly from one exhibit to the next. We duck out of the cramped and dim Coal and Grit Gallery to enter Atlantic Canada’s largest exhibit gallery. When I see the Samson and the Albion, I understand the need for all this space. The Samson— imported from Britain in 1838—is the oldest surviving steam locomotive in Canada and one of the oldest in the world. The Albion is right behind at possibly the second oldest in Canada. These gleaming hulks once transported coal to the coast. Today, they’re a favourite of kids and railway buffs.

Many of the museum’s exhibits often involve a hands-on activity and always a few stories by the interpreter. I print a few flyers at the printing press and challenge myself to keep up on the assembly line. At the fully operational quarter-sized sawmill,

Brier Island Lodge.

42

NOVA SCOTIA

Dining and accommodations nearby • Try original Pictou County Pizza, a brown sauce variety and specialty of Acropole Pizza in Westville.

• Enjoy exciting, contemporary dining at East Avenue in downtown New Glasgow.

• Take the kids for a treat at Corina’s Ice Cream Parlour in New Glasgow.

• Stay at the Holiday Inn Express right off the Trans Canada, not far from the museum.

• For a complete holiday, stay at the Pictou Lodge Beach Resort 17 kms from Stellarton.

COASTAL NOVA SCOTIA A Photographic Tour

by Adam Cornick $34.95 | photography 978-1-77108-887-9

Brier Island Whale and Seabird Cruises Brier Island’s Original and #1 Chosen Whale Watch Dedicated to Research & Education Since 1986!

With 100 full-colour images and insider tips on the must-see spots and hidden gems in each coastal region, Coastal Nova Scotia: A Photographic Tour takes readers on a round-the-province visual trip to places many have never seen—and gives us compelling reasons to add a few new locations to our own bucket lists.

VINCE WITH A “A FUN TRIP AROUND THE PROBILLIE MAGAZINE – .”

IAST HUS ENT IOUS GAR GRE

THE MUSEUM OF INDUSTRY

an interpreter mills up some miniature lumber by guiding small logs through the saw blade. Deeper into the museum, we find two women in a replica living room typical of a local home. They’re in the middle of major quilting projects, but take time to chat. We check out the inside of a traveling woodworking bus used for training carpenters and look around a completely rebuilt period beauty salon.

Outside, we emerge into sunshine 70 years after those rescued miners were so thankful to see the open sky above their heads. The Allan shaft was sealed a year after that 1950 explosion. The only original part of the mines stands before us, the three storey cut stone monolith that housed the Cornish pump over the shaft of the Foord pit. At 1,000 feet, it was once the deepest on the continent, thanks to the mighty 260 horsepower steam engine pump that kept it free of water.

Even as we depart, the Museum of Industry is telling us stories of big machines and big history.

PO Box 1199 223 Water St., Westport, Brier Island, Nova Scotia B0V 1H0 1-800-656-3660 www.brierislandwhalewatch.com NOVA SCOTIA

43

Friendship, a cup of tea, and some of Mary Janet MacDonald’s favourite Cape Breton places

BIGSTOCK/ TANACHA

Tunes and Wooden Spoons

Mary Janet MacDonald

BY SHELLEY CAMERON-MCCARRON

F

or more than a year now, Mary Janet MacDonald has been giving people joy—and recipes.

And the internet can’t get enough.

“It’s not just about the baking, I’m giving enjoyment to people, and I love that. It’s about the friendships, the cup of tea, and giving a sense of who we are in Cape Breton,” says Mary Janet, the Port Hood, NS woman behind “Tunes and Wooden Spoons”, a Facebook Live baking show that went viral from the moment she virtually invited folks into her western Cape Breton kitchen on March 22, 2020 for a tutorial on making cinnamon rolls, a family favorite.

Since then, truckloads of devoted fans tune in every Sunday at 2pm, joining this mom of seven, grandmother to 12, and renowned stepdance teacher, as she shares a recipe, with step-by-step instruction. She’s often joined by guests, including some of Cape Breton’s finest musical talent.

The idea first originated with daughter Margie when quarantine began in March 2020. The two were chatting about COVID-19 and how people were going to cope with isolation. “We’ve got to find something to do,” Mary Janet remembers Margie saying. “You know how everyone

44

NOVA SCOTIA

loves your cinnamon rolls? Why don’t you do a livestream on Facebook?”

Mary Janet agreed. Wearing her now signature red apron, she hit live.

“Oh, Mom, that’s so fun. We have to do another one,” Margie said.

Others agreed. Response was so overwhelming, (she was getting completely swamped on her personal Facebook page) she created her own social media pages.

Her son Brendan’s daughter, Anna, 14, dubbed it “Tunes and Wooden Spoons,” and everything soon took on that identity.

“I wouldn’t really be here without the kids’ input,” Mary Janet says.

Or the media, which she credits for helping propel the success. Soon after that first live show, a Cape Breton Post reporter called to do an article. More attention followed with provincial and national coverage. More followers came with each piece.

“Everything just gathered the moss,” says Mary Janet.

What resonates?

“People kept telling me, it’s the sound of your voice, it’s calming. It’s authentic. With all the bloopers and technical difficulties, it’s real.”

Mary Janet laughs as she says learning the technology has been at times a hilarious comedy of errors—like when she accidently recorded for 10 minutes with a filter that made her appear to be wearing sunglasses and top hat. “It’s been a ride.”

Week after week, people tune in for the baking, the music, and rapport. Viewers often write to tell her about their personal stories, about a connection that sparked, or how the show helped them forget their troubles for a bit. She’s had such beautiful messages, her children have told her, “Mom, you can’t quit.”

“I cannot get over it,” says Mary Janet, who grew up baking and at press time was in conversation with a publishing company for a recipe book.

“We’ve developed a friendship. It’s like one-on-one. It has given me purpose, to know you’re doing something people enjoy.”

Her trademark end to each show is a message to love one another. She also happily promotes the home she loves.

“I’m a simple baker, in little old Port Hood, in my little old kitchen. If I can use it as a platform to boost Cape Breton, the East Coast, and to give a little boost to our musicians, well, that’s what I’m here for,”

Opposite: Mary Janet whips up another batch of her famous cinnamon rolls.

Left: Mary Janet and husband Cecil surrounded

MARGIE MACDONALD

by their seven children.

says Mary Janet, who grew up in the culture (her first performance was at age four at the Mabou Hall, her hometown.) She taught step-dancing for more than 30 years, travelling to Scotland, Denmark and across North America. She’s also done two instructional videos.

LEN WAGG

Favourite Cape Breton experiences Ask Mary Janet where people should travel in Cape Breton, and the reply is ready.

“I really want to promote the west side of Cape Breton, Canada’s musical coast. I want (people) to take the coastal drive through

little villages dotting the ocean all the way north, to feel the presence of the small communities and the beautiful people, and to get a real sense of life, and the Gaelic influences that remained here, and are still living in many ways.

“I want to have them experience the beautiful beaches, all along the western coast. I want them to experience the entertainment, to learn how to square dance in West Mabou (home to a weekly dance), to travel the backroads to Glencoe Mills (another square dance), to go to the Red Shoe Pub (in Mabou) and the Judique Celtic Interpretive Centre, to go north and experience the Acadian communities, and go around the Cabot Trail that way.”

On Cape Breton, she says: “I love how we respect our culture and roots. It’s so important to the big picture of knowing who you are. The efforts we’ve put into place to retain the Gaelic language, fiddling, piping, dancing, it makes me so proud that that’s who we are, that the connection to the past is part of our lives.”

NOVA SCOTIA

45

Cabot Trail Cape Breton Highlands National Park

Plan your Island getaway:

VisitCapeBreton.com

Conde Nast Readers’ Choice Awards 2020

Thankfully, we have amazing views like this in our backyard.

CONTRIBUTED PHOTO

Jimmie LeFresne, Train Station Inn

Taken with Tatamagouche From a honey mead beverage company to hand-turned gourmet ice cream, the village of Tatamagouche is buzzing

BY SHELLEY CAMERON-MCCARRON

L

et’s start this story on a February afternoon. It’s a sunny Saturday and we’ve just pulled onto Main Street in Tatamagouche (the “Magnificent Mile,” as locals sometimes call it), and we’re cruising by the candy-coloured shops that line the main drag. This is rural Nova Scotia, a village of some 1,000 souls on the province’s North Shore, and it’s busy.

People walk the streets, pulling open doors to treat themselves to Appleton Chocolates’ delectable wares, stepping into Dexter’s Butcher Shop for a $5 sandwich that can make a grown man weep, and bargain hunting at several new-to-you clothing shops. Yours truly scores a

48

NOVA SCOTIA

preloved sweater and upon purchase is told sale proceeds will go to a scholarship to help girls attend high school in Guatemala. The owner normally closes the shop for winter, but this year allowed a local community group to run the shop to support the cause.

This is Tatamagouche. And I’m totally taken with it.

“It’s a very open and welcoming community, it’s quite vibrant and a strong community, and very community-oriented,” says Tatamagouche resident Christiane Jost, a native of nearby Malagash who co-owns the popular microbrewery, Tatamagouche Brewing Co. (Try their Deception Bay IPA.) “It’s in the middle of nowhere, but it’s in

the middle,” she laughs. “We’re rural, but it’s centrally located.”

Indeed, many roads seem to lead to Tatamagouche, located halfway between Truro and Amherst, and within an easy drive of Halifax, New Glasgow, Moncton and many more locales.

Locally-owned stores, restaurants and residential buildings greet visitors on a main street that’s big on charm and authenticity.

“The way the village is built on Main Street, once you pull your car over, it’s very rare to get back in the car. It’s very explorable,” says Jost, who notes that part of Tatamagouche’s vibrancy is in that it’s quite walkable.

STEVE CURRIE

Hard Honey Beverage Company

Tatamagouche Brewing Co.

“It’s one-stop shopping in a way,” she says. “We have food, the views, the scenery.

There’s a microbrewery, a chocolate shop, two two-headed calves (it’s a taxidermy exhibit) at the museum; there are fun and quirky things.”

“Tatamagouche has become very unique in that it’s not big enough to attract the big box retailers, and it’s not small enough to keep entrepreneurs away,” says Jimmie LeFresne, lifelong Tatamagouche resident and owner of the Train Station Inn, a century-old rail station turned into a popular boutique hotel.

LeFresne bought the station at age 18.

“While all the rest of the kids in my Grade 12 class were buying cars, I bought a train station,” he jokes. He didn’t know what he was going to do, but he didn’t want it torn down. Eventually, he turned it into a unique inn, now celebrating its 33rd year, and adding 13 cabooses where guests stay. They also offer a dining car, a lounge car, gift shop and events, including live music.

Tatamagouche, he says, is quite up with the times, but is also using its historic buildings in creative ways. Plus, it offers a diverse mix of attractions that appeal to all, from arts and culture—including Sara Bonnyman Pottery, which has been in the community for more than 40 years, and an artisan co-operative in the grain elevator) to museums, cultural centres, beaches, nature, food and drink. He says they’re fortunate in the community also to have very strong volunteer organizations.

“People come here by accident and when they find it, they never leave,” says LeFresne.

Always a popular summertime retreat for beach and cottage-goers, Tatamagouche is

a special place with its relaxed atmosphere and entrepreneurial spirit, says Devin Trefry, Research, Policy and Community Engagement with the Municipality of Colchester.

“Tatamagouche is unassuming,” he says. “I think people will not only enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, they’ll be surprised to discover just how many hidden gems there are here in the area.”

The village, he says, offers culinary attractions including the Train Station Inn Dining Car, Chowder House, Dexter’s Butcher Block, Tipperary Bakery & Café, Tatamagouche Farmers Market, Hard Honey Beverage Company, along with nearby Sugar Moon Farm Maple and Pancake House, and Jost Vineyards in Malagash— Atlantic Canada’s longest-running winery— just to name a few.

Plus, there are great multi-use trails to explore, such as the Butter Trail, part of the Great Trail across all of Canada, kayak and pedal buggy rentals, heritage attractions including the Creamery Square Heritage Centre; Balmoral Gristmill and Sutherlands Steam Mill; and several nearby provincial beach parks, including Blue Sea Beach and Rushton’s, with warm water swimming in summer. Four great golf courses are also within a 20 minute drive.

The area is so popular, the village’s population triples in summer with many day-trippers and cottage residents. In fact, locals don’t usually go onto Main Street on summer weekends—you’ll find them at the beach instead.

“It’s a very friendly village,” says Jost.

“People are surprised by how vibrant it is, and that it’s growing.”

Ship's Company Theatre 2021 Summer Season

YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS OUT ON TICKETS!

Live Theatre & Music

www.shipscompanytheatre.com 1.800.565.7469

NOVA SCOTIA

49

More than

apple pie

TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA / ACORN ART PHOTOGRAPHY

Caramel apples, cider and more

BY SANDRA PHINNEY

he first time I understood the word “apple” was 70 years ago when my mother took my sister and me to the Annapolis Valley Apple Blossom Festival. I’ll never forget seeing miles of orchards and a bazillion blossoms. I also learned that this event would translate into getting a new batch of apples, delivered in barrels, and stored in wooden cubicles in the cellar of our 100-year-old house.

Of course, I expected the apples to show up within a few days. Mama explained, “It’s going to be a while, Sandra. Bees need to pollinate the blossoms. The apples will grow, pickers will pick them, and put them into big barrels. We’ll get our apples in the fall.” Although I didn’t connect all the dots, I remember the excitement when barrels of Golden Russets, Cortlands, and Gravensteins finally arrived, and the heady apple-smell of it all.

What comes to mind when you hear the word “apple?” I’d bet a bushel of ’em that it’s apple pie, apple crisp, or apple sauce. Here are a few more things for you to consider.

7 more ways to “think apple”

1.

Visit a cider-maker. In 2003, Denise and Derek Flynn bought a rundown 5-acre orchard with 1,000 apple trees in Corberrie. After years of work, it’s a sight to behold. More recently, Denise took courses in making cider and created the Corberrie Cider Co. It’s a going concern and they love to have visitors.

50

NOVA SCOTIA

2.

If you cannot visit a cider-maker, make your own. Mind you it won’t have the “kick” of a commercially produced brand, but it’s fun to make, and is delicious hot. In a large pot, put 10 quartered apples and 1 quartered orange (skins and all), 4 cinnamon sticks, 6 cloves, 1 tsp each nutmeg and allspice, and ½ cup brown sugar. Cover with water a couple of inches above the fruit. Simmer for 2 hours. Mash the fruit a bit. Simmer another hour; cool, strain; refrigerate. Heat before serving.

3.

U-Pick! There are more than a dozen farms in Nova Scotia where you can call ahead and book a time to pick your own apples. Apple picking starts in August and goes to the end of October. As farms are kid-friendly, this is always a fabulous family excursion.

4.

Weez Coburn owns Carino Confections and makes caramelchocolate apples as well as chocolates to sell at the Yarmouth Farmer’s Market. For her apple delights, Weez uses Honeycrisps.

She double-dips them in caramel, then coats them in chocolate before adding a sprinkling of Skor toffee bits. Scoot around Google for ideas and create your own.

5.

Blair House Museum is celebrating its 40th anniversary. Located on the Kentville Agricultural Centre grounds, the museum gives you both the history and backstory of the apple industry, as well as an overview of the research—past and present. Then veer south to the Apple Capital Museum in Berwick. It’s housed in a restored 19th century store, originally

BIGSTOCK/HOBBY 15, ELENA SHASHKINA

T

Do you know?

BIGSTOCK/ALAS_SPB, ANNIEANNIE

Although apples are 80-90% water and are fat and sodium-free, they are a great source of Vitamins C and E, and contain potassium, phosphorous, niacin and boron. Just one apple has more fibre than a bowl of oatmeal or most brands of cold cereal. Apple peels are rich in antioxidants. All this and more contribute to our health and helps confirm the adage, “An apple a day keeps the doctor away.”

a harness shop. You’ll also enjoy Prescott House Museum in Port Williams, former home of Charles Prescott, aka the father of the apple industry in NS. In the early 1800s, Prescott introduced Gravensteins to the province—the quintessential multi-purpose apple.

The history of apples runs deep in Nova Scotia and there are boundless ideas for creating delicious apple treats.

SANDRA PHINNEY

6.

Make apple prints. You’ll need: apples, knife, tempera paint, heavy paper, or Bristol board to make cards or bookmarks. Carve apples into shapes such as diamonds, hearts, stars, animals, or abstract designs. Make sure the “stamp” has a level bottom. Pour paint into trays (Styrofoam bottoms saved from packets of meat or fish work well). Dip design into paint, shake off excess, then stamp away.

Christmas tree decorations are also easy to make by slicing apples thinly “in the round.”

Dry on a cookie sheet in 250˚F oven for 3–4 hours. Cool. Add a bit of glue and some sparkly stuff if you wish.

7.

Apple soup anyone? Keep your guests guessing about the ingredients of this soup. Sauté 1 sliced onion then add chunks of 3 peeled potatoes, 6 peeled/cored apples, a tbsp of nutmeg, salt and pepper. Cover with 10-12 C of chicken or vegetable broth; simmer for 45 minutes. When cooled, blend in food processor. Heat to serve and add a dollop of sour cream per bowl. For fun, substitute a small turnip for potatoes.

NOVA SCOTIA

51

Award-winning recipe: Apple Ambrosia

SANDRA PHINNEY

SANDRA PHINNEY

In the mid-1980s, Susie Sweeney entered a cooking contest sponsored by the Nova Scotia Fruit Growers Association. The home economist from Chebogue won “The Golden Apple Tree,” a miniature 10 ct. gold grand prize created by renowned sculptor Dawn McNutt. Hanging from one of its branches is a tiny gold apple.

You’ll love Susie’s recipe for its classy looks, subtle texture, and divine taste.

Serve this to friends and they’ll think you attended gourmet cooking school.

tree with a golden apple on it.

graham wafer crumbs sugar cinnamon nutmeg

Butter bottom and sides of a 10-in. spring-form pan. Dust bottom of pan with this mixture.

Filling: 5 1 cup/250 mL 1 lb

1 cup/250 mL 2 tbsp/30 mL 1 tsp/5 mL

eggs, separated white sugar or two 250-gram packages cream cheese [cut in pieces and softened up to room temp.] sour cream flour vanilla

Beat egg whites until stiff. In another bowl, beat egg yolks until thick; gradually add sugar, followed by cream, sour cream, flour, and vanilla, beating in each addition until smooth. Gently fold into egg whites. Pour into pan. Place in 270˚F oven. Bake 70 min. Turn off oven, leave for 1 hour without opening door. Remove and cool.

Glaze: 6 medium size firm apples 1 ½ cup/375 mL apple juice 1/3 cup/90 mL lemon juice ½ cup/125 mL firmly packed brown sugar 2 tbsp/30 mL cornstarch ¼ tsp/1mL cinnamon ¼ tsp/1 mL nutmeg

52

by Susie Sweeney. Above, Susie’s prize, an apple

NOVA SCOTIA

Peel apples, core and cut into 8–10 slices each. Place in a 10-in. skillet; add half a cup of the apple juice and simmer apple slices until barely tender. Drain, saving apple juice. Meanwhile, mix lemon juice, sugar, cornstarch, and spices together in a small saucepan. Add 2/3 cup apple juice

(combination of what you saved, topped up with more juice) to sugar mixture in saucepan; bring to a boil; boil for 2 min. stirring constantly. Cool to pouring consistency. Pour on top of cheesecake.

Refrigerate until set.

NOVA SCOTIA

Find Your Fresh A breath of fresh air means different things to different folks.

Whatever floats your boat or rocks your socks…

Kentville’s got it.

Start planning your visit today! kentville.ca

BIGSTOCK/ HOBBY 15

Mix: ½ C/125 mL 1 tbsp/15 mL ¼ tsp/1 mL ¼ tsp/1 mL

The award winning Apple Ambrosia cake, won

On sands that Top beach experiences in Eastern PEI

sing

BY DARCY RHYNO

C

arch bridge over The Run back up the hill to the park grounds. The view from here next to the cedar shingled buildings is of the beach and across the gentle waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence all the way to Cape Breton.

Up here, there are changing rooms and showers, the Basin Head Fisheries Museum, the Pirates Basin takeout and restaurant, and a lovely set of gardens. A family in high spirits passes me, heading down to the beach with paddleboards from East Coast Paddle Adventures (ECPA) under their arms.

The ways to have fun at Basin Head seem pretty much endless.

Exploring Points East Scuffing along the singing sands, swimming The Run and paddle-boarding with ECPA at Basin Head are among the dozens of activities, experiences and adventures to be

had on the 50 or more beaches along PEI’s Points East Coastal Drive. Home base for ECPA is just 14 kilometres southwest of here at Souris Beach Provincial Park along the causeway into the town of Souris.

The protected waters on the landward side of the causeway make for great paddle-boarding and kayaking. But they aren’t the only attraction here. On the town side of the beach, a cluster of retail huts is home to a fun collection of mini shops for ice cream, lobster, fine art and even sea glass jewellery and art.

Between Souris and Basin Head, birdwatchers will want to check out the Black Pond Migratory Bird Sanctuary. The coastal drive passes one side of the sanctuary, so it’s possible to spot lots of birdlife right from the road. There’s also access from Little Harbour Beach, the kilometre-long stretch of sand that separates the pond from the

TOURISM PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

hirp, chirp, chirp go my feet as I scuff along the beach at Basin Head Provincial Park on PEI’s eastern coast. It’s an infectious sound. I’m up on the dry sand away from the water where the magic of the singing sands works best. It’s a long beach, so I can scuff along, singing with my feet for hundreds of metres, enjoying the soundtrack to this gentle seaside scenery.

Heading back, I splash along in the shallows of the warmest ocean waters north of the Carolinas. When I reach the outflow from Basin Head Harbour that divides the beach, I find the water too deep to wade across. This narrow stream of super warm seawater nicknamed The Run is a favourite swimming spot among locals. I jump in, joining a half dozen happy people already splashing about.

After my swim, I cross the attractive little

Basin Head Provincial Park PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

53

Panmure Island

TOURISM PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Places to stay and eat • Inn at Bay Fortune • Rodd Brudenell River Resort, Brudenell • Lady Slipper Cafe, Montague • Famous Peppers, Montague • Johnson Shore Inn, Hermanville • Shipwreck Point Cafe, Naufrage • St. Peter’s Bayview Suites and Restaurant

Panmure Island

sea. At times, thousands of waterfowl like ring-necked duck, pintails, teal and American wigeon congregate here. The best time of the year to see these birds in number is September to November. Flocks of black ducks stick around until the pond freezes over. Even in winter, buffleheads, mergansers and goldeneyes hang out where waters remain open year-round.

Parabolic dunes, a rare beach phenomenon, await discovery at the far northwestern end of the Points East Coastal Drive. They’re in PEI National Park at Greenwich on St. Peter’s Bay. Due to the interplay between erosion and anchoring plant life, these large dunes slowly migrate and take on a particular form. The 4.4-kilometre Greenwich Dunes Trail crosses a pond on a floating boardwalk before rising for views over the parabolic dune system.

Back on the east coast, I track down the

54

TOURISM PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Wood Islands Provincial Park

JOHN SYLVESTER

TOURISM PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Sally’s Beach Provincial Day Park

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

secluded and quiet Sally’s Beach Provincial Day Park. The kilometre-long strip of sand is bookended by red bluffs. Bordering the northern section of the beach at Spry Cove is Little Pond. Even nestled between peninsulas of farmland, it seems a wild place. Some spots along the strand are a bit rocky, so I’m glad for the shoes in my hands that I can slip off and on.

From time to time, a glimmer catches my eye: bits of sea glass worn smooth over many years of washing about in the sand are common here. Relaxing on the beach, I watch the fishing boats come and go around Spry Point to and from the Annandale wharf.

Further south, the beach along the causeway to Panmure Island was once voted the best in Atlantic Canada. This supervised beach has some impressive dunes of its own on the ocean side. These are complemented on the bay side by red sandy shores and warm waters. Many visitors stay at the

fully serviced provincial park campground and take a tour at historic Panmure Island Lighthouse. The Indigenous presence here goes back at least 10,000 years, so some plan their visits to coincide with the annual First Nations powwow in August.

For one last beach experience, I arrive a few hours early to catch the ferry back to Nova Scotia. I park the car in the queue to reserve my place and walk the few hundred metres to Wood Islands Provincial Park at the harbour mouth. Kids are splashing about in the warm waters while their parents look on from the picnic area near the seafood takeout. Others are checking out the lighthouse. I relax on the red sand beach, soaking up the last of the island sun.

Eventually, the ferry from Caribou comes into sight. I watch it pass the breakwater, passengers waving cheerily from the upper deck, looking forward to their own PEI Points East beach vacation.

DARCY RHYNO

A meal in a pocket— or a hand PEI Handpie Company makes an ideal to-go food

Chef Sarah Bennetto O’Brien

BY DARCY RHYNO

I

f you like finger food, you’ll love PEI’s hand food. Just across the Confederation Bridge in Albany, Prince Edward Island, there’s a production bakery with an attached takeout and viewing area that makes nothing but.

The PEI Handpie Company builds savoury pies for the hand in flavours like curried chickpea, barbecued pork and organic chicken pot pie. Chef Sarah Bennetto O’Brien and her crew build them by the thousands for sale fresh and frozen on site and for distribution around the island.

Bennetto O’Brien incorporates as many local ingredients as possible, right down to Island wheat for the crust. “The crew and I are into feeding people real food,” she says. Island potatoes, cheese, vegetables and meats go into every savoury pocket.

She’s designed a few dessert handpies as well, using Island apples, rhubarb and blueberries.

Handpies: a love story The story of PEI handpies is a love story. Now a thriving enterprise with many employees,

56

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

it all started in culinary school at Holland College in Charlottetown. That’s when the Sudbury, Ontario native fell in love, not with handpies—that came later—but with the island and with fellow student, Owen O’Brien. At the age of 20, she earned her red seal, and after a short time working away, the couple returned to the island where Bennetto O’Brien opened Scapes restaurant.

One item in particular quickly became a favourite with her customers: handpies.

“They were by far the best seller,” says Bennetto O’Brien. “In our last year as Scapes, handpies made up over 30 per cent of sales. Once we started selling them frozen, people got hooked, realizing how good they are cooked at home. We started getting huge orders, so we decided we could focus on handpies.” The PEI Handpie Company was born.

“Once we launched, we were twice as busy,” Bennetto O’Brien says. “Local fans drive here from across the island. They’ll have a couple hot, but they bring coolers and take a dozen home so they can have them through the month.”

Visitors to PEI from all over stop to try

a pie. Quebecois visitors are particularly fond of the Acadian Pork tourtière handpie.

Bennetto O’Brien jokes that she and her crew roll out so much dough, “We’re all basically made of gluten by the end of the day.”

Two flavours in particular were popular with Scapes customers. Both are still on the menu. “A lot of people go with the bacon cheeseburger for their first-time pie. The beet, corn and goat cheese is our most popular vegetarian. It’s 85 per cent roasted beets with toasted corn and some goat cheese to blend it all together.” The company now sells nine core flavours with many seasonal varieties.

What’s a handpie, anyway?

The earliest record of handpies or pasties goes back to medieval Britain when royalty and nobility ordered large numbers of them for public events and payment for services. Early pasties were made with venison, salmon, herring, mutton and other available meats and fish. A pasty qualifies as such when it contains a savoury mixture of ingredients like meat, vegetables and

The PEI Pasty is the company’s most traditional handpie, made in the style of the Cornish Pasty.

Yield: 6–8 meal sized handpies Pastry: ½ lb 2 cups 1 cup 1 ½ tsp 1 cup Filling: 1 tbsp 1 lb 3 cups 1 1 3 1 2 tsp 2 tsp 1 tsp 2 tsp ¼ cup

frozen grated butter (or small cubes) all purpose flour whole wheat salt ice water

neutral oil stewing beef, cubed russet potatoes peeled, cubed small turnip peeled, cubed medium onion, diced cloves garlic, minced litre low sodium beef stock salt ground black pepper tomato paste dried rosemary flour (as needed)

in as many flavours as a cook can imagine.

She recognizes the many forms handpies have taken in cultures around the world – samosas in India, empanadas in Mexico and the tourtière in Quebec.

Time travel by handpie Bennetto O’Brien’s original inspiration back at Scapes came from fiction. She’s a big fan of the Outlander book and TV series. “It’s time travel,” she says. “So nerdy. A nurse in World War II passes into 1740s Scotland and gets into battles. She makes bridies – in Scotland, handpies are called bridies.”

She knew of a chef who created an entire cookbook based on Outlander. “I tried her recipe and thought, this is the perfect PEI comfort food. It’s a meat pie, it’s portable and it’s good throughout the year, especially in winter.”

Whether it’s back to the gritty reality of a Cornish mine or off to the battlefields of a fictional Scotland, the hearty PEI handpie is like time travel with every bite of an edible pocket.

To form handpies: 1 beaten egg with a little water to make egg-wash Method PASTRY: Blend frozen grated butter with flours and salt mixture. Add ¾ cup of ice water and mix until just starting to come together. Use additional water sparingly, as required. Squeeze dough together, wrap in parchment to rest in fridge for at least 30 minutes.

FILLING: Season beef cubes with salt and pepper. Add oil to a hot Dutch oven and sear beef, then set aside. Reduce heat to medium, cook onions and garlic until softened. Sprinkle in most of the flour, the rosemary, and add tomato paste.

Stir. Slowly add beef stock while stirring vigorously to avoid clumps. Bring to a simmer. Add potatoes and turnip. Add seared beef. Stir. Cover and place in preheated 350°F oven for 3 hours, stirring occasionally. Add more stock if necessary.

Stew should be quite thick to set up when cooled. Refrigerate.

DARCY RHYNO

cheese, folded over into a side-crimped dough and eaten by hand. Even today, serving handpies on dishes and dissecting them with forks and knives is pasty blasphemy.

Pasties became a working-class staple as early as the 17th century when the coal miners of Cornwall—where it’s now the official dish—took their handheld lunch into the mines. One pie on Bennetto O’Brien’s menu, the PEI Pasty, is a nod to the Cornish Pasty. Those who pronounce “pasty” like “pastry” will be gently corrected by those who know their handpies. The “a” in pasty is short, as in the word “bad.” Perhaps those

most in the know are members of the Cornish Pasty Association (CPA) in the United Kingdom.

According to the CPA, the original Cornish pasty is made with beef skirt, the underside of the animal, because it has little fat and no gristle. This cut cooks the same time as the raw potatoes and other vegetables, and the juices create a nice gravy. The CPA recommends a waxy, firm potato so they hold their shape through the bake. The Cornish pasty is essentially a delicious beef stew in a handcrafted crust that’s somewhere between a snack and a full meal.

Contrary to popular belief, the purpose of the thick, crusty edge characteristic of a Cornish style pasty was probably not for gripping by dirty fingers in the mines. The theory goes that the bit of soiled crust could be discarded after the miner finished his pie. It turns out that Cornish miners took their pasties to work in bags and ate them end to end, holding onto the bag until the last bite. Waste not, want not.

Bennetto O’Brien takes a broader view of what qualifies as a pasty. To her, a pasty is a personal, portable snacking pie that comes

ASSEMBLY: Cut pastry into 6-8 equal portions. Roll into circles. For 8, place ¾ cup of filling in the center of each pastry. Brush beaten egg on one edge, fold pastry over the filling and press to seal. Press folded handpie to secure filling and create a filling-free inch-wide rim along the edge, apply egg wash and crimped to fully seal. Crimp with fingers or fork. Place handpies on a parchment lined baking sheet. Egg wash tops of handpies. Freeze for later baking or bake immediately for 35-45 minutes until golden brown, at 425°F. Serve hot.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

57

TOURISM PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Dig your hands into history A visit to Orwell Corner Historic Village

Daily life in the 1890s

BY DARCY RHYNO

I

like a museum where I can get my hands dirty. I want to feel in my muscles and bones what it was like to live daily life back when almost everything was handmade. I want to work a piece of wood, ride a horse, dip a beeswax candle, churn butter and cook over the hearth. That’s why Orwell Corner Historic Village in rural PEI is one of my all time favourites.

Right now, I’m getting my hands dirty in the blacksmith shop, hammering at a red hot length of metal, shaping it on the anvil into a square nail. The coal fire in the forge is blazing hot inside the otherwise dimly

58

hold my stick of metal in the fire, pull it out and place it on the anvil. As I work it with the hammer, it fades from white, to yellow, orange and red, and finally to grey.

In the end, it’s questionable whether or not a carpenter could pound the crooked thing into a board without bending it, but I’m happy to head off to the next Orwell Village experience with my prize and a pair of dirty hands.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

lit shop. Nails like the one I’m making are probably holding this shop together—and most of the buildings in the village. I learn from the blacksmith that shoes for the horses are made here, as are hinges for the doors, hooks for coats, machine parts, tools and kitchen utensils. I have a new appreciation for craftsmen so skilled, they sometimes doubled as the village dentist.

The Orwell blacksmith shows me how to add coal to the forge and work the bellows, puffing the smoking heap into a blazing inferno that lights up the shop as if the sun just shone through an open window. I

Orwell Corner Historic Village re-creates daily village life on the island in the late Victorian period, the 1890s. The village was founded by 19th century settlers from the British Isles. Captain John MacDonald arrived with some. Others emigrated from the Isle of Skye in Scotland and County Monaghan in Ireland. Still others were United Empire Loyalists from the American Eastern Seaboard. Even today, many residents of the Orwell area are descendents of these earliest settler families.

Orwell Corner is about 30 kilometres from Charlottetown, and thrived as an eastern island agricultural crossroads.

There’s a school in the village—I had a short

Orwell Corner Historic Village

Hours of Operation July and August Daily 8:30 am to 4:30 pm June, September and October Weekdays 8:30 am to 4:30 pm Admission Adults: $9.95 Student (6 to 8 years old) : $5.50 Five and under: free Seniors: $9.05 Family (2 adults, 2 kids): $26.00

DARCY RHYNO

TOURISM PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

DARCY RHYNO

Location Orwell Corner Historic Village is located just off the Trans Canada Highway, Route #1 midway between Charlottetown (28 kms or 20 minutes) and the Northumberland Ferries Terminal at Wood Islands (32 kms or 25 minutes).

Contact Information Phone: 902-651-8515 Website: orwellcornervillage.ca

Make a candle, take a turn at the forge, enjoy a meal and meander the grounds at Orwell Corner Historic Village.

lesson earlier—a shingle mill, a church and the Clarke Store where I pretended to shop for items such as skates for my boots and toys for the kids. I found a beautiful painted metal horse with moving legs pulling a cart with working wheels.

At the village hall, I dip a beeswax candle and learn how to keep it straight and even. Making candles is also part of an experience called The Acadian Connections that includes stories of Alexis Doiron and his family, Acadians deported from this area in 1758 as part of the British expulsion of French settlers. This experience includes farm activities such as grooming one of the handsome le Cheval Canadien horses.

The hall doubles as Anna’s Tea Room, so when I finish my candle, I order the soup of the day with homemade biscuit, a cup of tea and some ginger cookies. While I wait for my lunch, I check out the display of period parlour games like “How Silas Popped the Question,” marbles, and liars dice—instead of numbers, the white cubes are marked with playing cards from the nine up to the ace.

On the hall’s hardwood stage, Orwell Corner presents weekly performances of traditional music. The Hey Fiddle Fiddle experience is hosted here, as well.

Visitors get to try the fiddle and learn a few traditional dance steps to Celtic music of the time. Some sign up for 1895 date nights called Courting at the Corner. Participants learn the finer points of period etiquette and are treated to a traditional dinner. The Victorian Harvest Feast takes place here every autumn. Guests tuck into a plateful of Irish boiled dinner with potatoes, cabbage and parsnips grown in the fields plowed by horses. Flour ground by hand is used to make bannock as a side for the meal.

Perhaps the most complete hands-on experience at Orwell Corner is called Bread and Butter. It starts with harvesting grain from the fields using a scythe. With a bushel of grain in hand, visitors grind it into flour before heading off to the barn to milk the goats. With the milk and flour ready, it’s time to learn the art of making a Scottish sourdough loaf and to churn some butter.

It’s hard to imagine anything more satisfying that biting into a slice of fresh bread made from grain you harvested yourself, dripping with butter you churned by hand.

After lunch, I head outside, looking for one last hand-dirtying experience. It’s easily found among the farm animals at the barn, in the pens and about the yard. There are goats and chickens to feed, eggs to collect, horses to groom and pigs to scratch. Orwell Corner is a mixed farm in the traditional sense because it relies on the closed loop of animal and crop farming. Manure from the barns is spread on the fields. Wool from sheep in the pasture gets made into clothing. Milk and eggs supply the kitchen.

In May and June, Orwell’s most popular experience for kids takes place: New Life on the Farm. It’s when that cycle of life is most evident. There are lambs to bottle feed and chicks to water. Young turkeys, geese, pigs and cows run about like the children themselves, everyone from the goslings to the grade schoolers happily dirtying their hands and their feet.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

59

Take a walk on PEI’s wild side Enjoying the splendour of the Greenwich dunes

BY DALE DUNLOP

P

Greenwich Dunes

60

surfing. In addition, there was the fabled Anne of Green Gables House, and in 1939 the opening of a golf course by legendary Canadian golf architect Stanley Thompson.

The park had what at the time was thought to be “something for everybody” and that was true—as Cavendish became one of the most popular vacation spots in Canada. One might fairly call it the Niagara Falls of Atlantic Canada. Then, as thinking evolved about what a national park should

and should not be, Parks Canada realized that something was missing on PEI—the essential wildness and sense of nature that is integral to the preservation motif behind all parks. Instead of trying to change the character of the existing park they did something better.

In 1998 Parks Canada acquired a completely separate parcel of land on St. Peter’s Bay, Greenwich Point, which contained the largest and best-preserved

EMMA MACDONALD PHOTOGRAPHY

rince Edward Island National Park dates all the way back to 1937 when the federal government acquired a relatively small amount of land in the Cavendish area and created Atlantic Canada’s second national park. The principal attraction was a large expanse of sand dunes and beach on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with relatively warm waters suitable for swimming; and in later years, body surfing, sailboarding and even kite

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

DALE DUNLOP HIKINGPEI.CA

Interpretive Centre

Tlaqatik Trail TOURISM PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

dune system on the island. Since that time a large interpretive centre, an extensive trail system with an amazing floating boardwalk and access to many kilometres of often-deserted beach have made Greenwich Dunes a must-visit attraction on the island.

The starting point for a visit is the Interpretive Centre, not far from the village of St. Peter’s. Here you can buy a day pass and learn the natural history of the Greenwich Dunes area, including the fact that it is a parabolic dune system, quite different and more rare than those at Cavendish.

From the Interpretive Centre a boardwalk leads to the dunes and the beach. On the day I visited in August 2020, it was completely deserted and I could not see another soul in any direction.

After spending as much time as you want on the beach or in the water, it’s time to do some hiking. There are three trails at Greenwich Dunes and they all start from a parking lot at the end of a dead end road not far from the Interpretive Centre. It’s quite possible to hike all three in a day visit.

The Havre St. Pierre trail is a nice rectangular warm-up hike that follows the shoreline of St. Peter’s Bay before returning to the parking through fields that were ablaze with fireweed in mid-August. On this trail you will learn the history of Havre St. Pierre, which in the 1700s was the largest European settlement on the island, at that time known as Ile St. Jean.

While most people know of the expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia, I had no idea that 3,000 Acadians were deported to England from here in 1758; of whom almost half perished on the voyages.

The second trail is Tlaqatik, a Mi’kmaw word for “campsite” and it references the fact that Indigenous people have been visiting this area on a seasonal basis for thousands of years. This trail is a 4.8-kilometre loop that features open grassland, forest and the lee side of the huge dunes that are the principal feature of the area. The portion near the dunes is a boardwalk that protects this fragile environment from the type of damage that formerly occurred at Cavendish when people and their pets roamed freely over the area.

The third trail is the star of Prince Edward Island National Park, Greenwich Dunes. Chances are you will recognize the dramatic landscape from the promotional advertising that the province has been

Greenwich Dunes Spend an hour or a day exploring the trails and natural wonders of Greenwich Dunes in PEI.

using in recent years. This is the trail with the floating boardwalk that has rapidly become famous and a magnet for people of all ages. Unlike the dunes near the Interpretive Centre, this section of the park is very popular, especially with families. Other than the start and end of this trail, most of it is perfectly suitable for strollers.

The trail is linear and listed as 4.8 km. out and back although in truth, because it is so interesting it hardly seemed that long.

It starts out with a short trek through the

forest to a stationary boardwalk that then becomes a floating one as it traverses the marsh between the coastal dunes and the forest. The scenery is simply marvelous and the sensation of movement on the floating boardwalk is like being on a ship.

At the end of the floating boardwalk there is a narrow path that leads up and over the dunes to the beach where you will be rewarded with great views in all directions. Don’t forget to have your camera ready for pictures.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

61

SUBARU & SALTSCAPES

STAYCATION Contest

Buying local and staycations are critical to our local economic recovery in this majestic region of Canada. We hope you’ll be inspired with this annual publication, Saltscapes 2021 Food & Travel Guide to the best inns & outings.

As the global health crisis continues to wreak havoc on businesses of all kinds, large and small, industry leaders are battling to adjust to a vastly changed marketplace. There’s no question that the challenges they’re facing are unprecedented, and there’s also no question that we are all facing them head on.

There’s great comfort in knowing we live among some of the warmest, kindest and most generous-spirited people on the planet who always rise to the occasion. Social media sites are chock full of powerful and inspiring messages from Atlantic Canadian friends and family helping one another with online humour, songs and expressions of heartfelt gratitude.

5 great categories

Picture-Perfect Fishing Villages

All Fore for Nature

In summer 2020, we opened up a dialogue with CAA Atlantic and their members, Saltscapes readers and tourism partners across Atlantic Canada to create a “Well Worth the Drive” inventory of road trips…one of the opportunities of isolation, it provides us with ample opportunity to plan our future getaways and make every road trip well worth the drive!

Hundreds of entries poured in from folks across the region sharing their favourite photos and staycation stories for a chance to win fabulous prizes including the Subaru grand prize (a two year lease on a 2020 Subaru Impreza (retail value: $15,000).

We’re delighted to share a selection of winning entries including the winning entry by Fiona Morris from River Philip, NS entitled “Railway to the Milky Way”.

Dancing Taste Buds

Splish Splash

Watch for the exciting 2021 Subaru & Saltscapes Staycation Contest details in Saltscapes’ upcoming issues and Viewsletters!

Heartfelt thanks for continuing to celebrate Canada’s east coast together in 2021.

The Local Libation Trail Have a safe and happy summer, The Saltscapes team

Visit saltscapes.com for details

2020 SUBARU & SALTSCAPES

STAYCATION CONTEST Winning Photos and Stories FIRST PLACE WINNER

Railway to the Milky Way

by Fiona Morris River Philip, NS

Riding the Fundy Tidal Bore

by Marisa Eisner Shubenacadie River, NS

Taking His Last Bow

by Stella d’Entremont Machias Island, Grand Manan, NB

Delicious Meal at Wild Caraway

by John Murray Advocate Harbour, NS

Breaking Clouds after the Storm

by Amy Watson Morrell, PE

Wheely GOOD EATS

East Coast food trucks

BY DARCY RHYNO

N

ot sure I can get my mouth open wide enough, but I’m gonna give it my best shot. One of the three lobster rolls being handed from the Peggy’s Cove Lobster food truck window has my name on it. Even better, I get to dine al fresco in one of the most scenic locations on the East Coast. It’s February, the time of the great, month-long Nova Scotia Lobster Crawl festival and the middle of lobster season. I’m standing just steps from a wharf where live lobster is landed daily.

I’m all in for this year’s Lobster Crawl, with a face painting of the red crustacean on my cheek and a new pair of mittens, each with a lobster knit onto the back. Just as I get my mitts around one of those fat lobster rolls, food truck owner Peter Richardson suggests we grab a few pics of the delicious looking trio. Reluctantly, I place my roll with the others on the picnic table so we can snap a few quick shots and post them. With our food truck fare blowing up on social media, we tuck our phones away and dig in.

A world of flavours Street food is my thing. Everywhere I go, I seek out the open-air foods unique to the destination. I’ve dined on herby lamb kabobs in Athens, burn-your-face-off spicy falafels in Amsterdam, piping hot boiled peanuts in Georgia and loaded noodle bowls from soup carts in Bali. Still, the sheer number, variety, quality, creativity and even humour of Atlantic Canadian food trucks puts the street food scene here on par with any other location. At least 50 of these “non-staurants” roam urban streets and rural roads while others have long been ensconced on their favourite corner or roadside pull-off.

The chip wagon is the original food truck, and the oldest in North America is right here. Mike and Marielle Yorke have

been serving up piping hot batches of fries from their Glace Bay Chip Wagon for over 30 years. The truck itself dates from 1942 and is still equipped with its original gas burner used in the field during World War II. Everyone knows the blue wagon for its chubby Belgian-style fries. It’s a fixture in the community.

Lots of other chip wagons are fixtures on their favourite vending spots in other communities as well—Bud the Spud on Spring Garden Road in Halifax, Yes Bye Fries by the side of the road in Fredericton Junction and for a quarter century, Ziggy Peelgood’s—now with three chip trucks running the streets, in St. John’s, Newfoundland. Peelgood’s specializes in perfect French fries as a hearty lunch or as the foundation for a deep, delicious poutine or a mess of fish and chips.

At the other end of the spectrum, some food trucks specialize in out-of-the-box fine dining gone mobile. Nomad Gourmet on the Halifax waterfront thinks nothing of offering frog legs on the same menu as their Dirty Pig Burger. Others take to the streets with that famous and lively East Coast sense of humour on full display. Oh My Cheeses of Port Rexton, Newfoundland serves grilled cheese sandwiches hot off the grill like The Kevin Bacon, The Pickle and The Hot Mess.

In The Gull Island Grilled Cheese, creamy

DANIELLE LETHBRIDGE

64

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

Isla Cocina

SpiceX

Food on the go Here are some selected food trucks and what some are best known for.

Look for them on Social Media for exact locations, menus and specials.

Download the Street Food app and check out locations like Halifax.

Newfoundland Johnny & Mae’s, St. John’s

Truckin’ Roll Ice Cream

Sweet Tails and Treats

Potato Potato Chip Truck, Gander Off the Hook Fish & Chips, Deer Lake Shell’s Meals on Wheels, Baie Verte Luke’s Gourmet Poutinerie, Burgers & Donairs, Lewisporte The Original Johnny O’s Take Out, South Brook Also on social media, check out the Mobile Vendors Association of Newfoundland or MVAN.

There’s more to street food than just french fries (although they’re pretty great, too.) Try some new favourites around the region.

New Brunswick Get Some Food Truck, Oromocto Big John’s Spiral Potatoes, Fredericton

brie is complemented by the tartness of local partridgeberry jam.

At Truckin’ Roll Ice Cream around Charlottetown, the Nutty Canadian is made with maple syrup, Basic Witch ice cream with pumpkin spice, and the Chai Spy with tea and coconut. Truckin’ Roll comes up with some truly original ice cream flavours such as their Black Roast Sumatran Coffee Ice Cream, as well as desserts from scratch like their cookie sandwich in a jar.

More and more food trucks specializing in desserts are taking to the streets.

In Grand Falls-Windsor, Newfoundland, young owner Emily Hewlett makes irresistible dessert-like dishes such as beaver tails, churros and crepes inside her Sweet Tails and Treats truck. For the quality of her foods and her business acumen, she’s landed a few entrepreneur awards. Like many food truck operators, she also gives back. In her case, occasional donations from sales go to a local pet rescue centre.

The East Coast food truck scene is so diverse, I can even find some of those international flavours I so crave. Way out in the Bay of Fundy on Grand Manan Island, Isla Cocina takes me right back to the streets of Puerto Vallarta with their authentic Mexican foods like quesadillas, taquitos, tostadas

and of course tacos, one of the world’s original handheld street foods. SpiceX in Paradise, Newfoundland specialize in all sorts of curries. Thai Pad PEI in Charlottetown specializes in, what else, Pad Thai, along with Thai curries. On the streets of St. John’s, Big Boy Baos tucks any number of delicacies such as coconut shrimp, pork belly, chickpea falafel and pulled pork into their fluffy Chinese-style bao buns for some fusion magic.

Grillin Dillon, Keswick

Simply chips

Hoss’s Fish & Chips, Summerside

There is no food truck experience more essential on the East Coast than a simple brown bag of fries from a chip wagon.

That’s why fries continue to be the most common food truck fare.

At The Chip Shack in Charlottetown, Caron Prins, aka the Queen of Fries, has so perfected the craft, she’s been featured on The Food Network. While she positively radiates with East Coast hospitality, she’s best known for bringing fries down to Earth, literally. Of her hand-cut PEI spuds, she says, “Our red soil is full of iron and minerals.

That’s what makes the fries so good.”

Giving me one of her sunny smiles, she adds, “and the love that goes into them.”

IBBQ4U, Woodstock Veg Out, Fredericton Serious Smoke, Saint John Prince Edward Island Fryers Hut, St. Peter’s Fat Freddy’s Frys, Montague Holy Fox Food Truck, Cornwall

Nova Scotia Shree Curry Place, Trenton Ciabatta Jay’s, Bridgewater The Purple People Feeder, central Nova Scotia Mr. Smooth Fruit Smoothies and Grill, Dartmouth Jamaica Lee, Dartmouth Route 6 Food Truck, Tatamagouche Also on social media, check out the Nova Scotia Food Truck Association.

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

65

Starry, starry nights Exploring the night skies in Atlantic Canada

Sandy Pond, Terra Nova National Park

66

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

© DAVE NEWBURY / PARKS CANADA

BY SHELLEY CAMERON-MCCARRON

ouis Comeau gazes at the stars every chance he gets.

And he’s not alone in Atlantic Canada, where “astrotourism” is rapidly growing in popularity.

Blessed with dark-sky preserves, secluded shorelines, open countryside, university observatories and stargazing accommodation packages, Atlantic Canada inspires one to look to the heavens with awe.

“There’s always something special to look at,” says Comeau, manager of Mount Carleton Provincial Park, a designated dark-sky preserve uniquely situated in the New Brunswick highlands, home to the Maritimes’ highest peak and two major watersheds. With no housing development in the park, and views overlooking water, it's dark as far as the eye can see. “You can imagine the setting, lakes surrounded by mountains, with no light pollution. This is the perfect area for stargazing.”

Seeing millions of stars shining bright gives new perspective on how big the universe is, says Comeau.

Dark and accessible The novelty of a dark, accessible location to view the night sky is really catching on, says Karen Wolfrey, Visitor Experience Manager at Terra Nova National Park, a designated dark-sky preserve in Newfoundland and Labrador.

For millennia, the stars and planets have captivated. However, today artificial lighting is impacting night sky views. Artificial lighting seems to be creeping into our lives

TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA /ACORN ART PHOTOGRAPHY

Lighthouse at Louisbourg

no matter where we go; both in the form of screens and in high intensity LED streetlights and exterior lighting, she says. Modern technology is allowing a new generation of astronomers to see the dark sky like never before, but there’s no substitute to match the awe of experiencing the real thing.

A stargazing experience like at Terra Nova may be the first time those living in areas with high light pollution have truly seen the night sky. For those from less populated areas, these places remind of the role of protected areas and why we safeguard them.

Working with the Royal Astronomical Society of Canada (RASC) St. John’s Centre, Terra Nova has developed innovative dark-sky related programs—and it has an outdoor theatre with a large screen and elevated seating for 450 people, perfect for astronomical programs. The park offers wonderful stargazing with its dark skies, plus it has unimpeded views at several vehicle accessible locations, like Sandy Pond, Ochre Hill, Blue Hill and the Visitor Centre.

In New Brunswick, both national parks, Kouchibouguac and Fundy, are dark-sky preserves. Irving Nature Park on the edge of Saint John, is the first Urban Star Park in Canada.

Stargazing connects us all At Fundy, Parks Canada’s Julie Ouellette says as light pollution from large centres continues to spread and hide the full night sky from view, dark-sky preserves provide an unforgettable experience. The simplicity of stargazing connects us all. No matter

where you are on the planet when you look up you will see stars and imagine what could lie beyond.

Designated a dark-sky preserve in 2012 by the RASC, this means the park is one of the best places to explore the night sky in Canada. Top stargazing areas include the Caribou Plain Trail, a 2.1-km loop that provides a sensory dark sky experience; Bennett Lake and Herring Cove day-use areas; and Chignecto Recreation Area.

In Prince Edward Island, the national park provides an idyllic setting for looking skyward, specifically at Greenwich and Cavendish beaches. There’s no light pollution so the stars are brightest, and views are over water.

Whole new sky “It’s a whole new sky to see,” says Adam Hill, a photographer, avid dark sky viewer, and marketing officer with Destination Cape Breton.

“We’re so used to seeing blue skies and clouds. When you go outside in a truly dark sky, you’re almost taken aback and speechless. You feel pretty small. You realize your place in the universe,” says Hill who cites Cape Breton’s south coast, towards Louisbourg, as an exceptional place to stargaze with its inky-dark skies and ocean vantage points. “I’ve been all over Canada, and it’s the best I’ve seen.”

Visitors can even see the night sky 18th-century style by camping overnight at Fortress Louisbourg National Historic Site, and across the island, Hill recommends

Kouchibouguac National Park

NEW BRUNSWICK TOURISM

L

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

67

68

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

DEEP SKY EYE OBSERVATORY

ou ce tt e

“For a guided tour of the dark skies, you don’t want to miss the Deep Sky Eye Observatory or Trout Point Lodge.

You can even stay overnight at both locations. If you’d like to view on your own with telescopes, a binocular or the naked eye, there is no shortage of places to go,” he also says, mentioning Wedgeport Nature Trail, Cape Forchu Lighthouse, Ellenwood Provincial Park, Argyler Lodge as well as local beaches for spectacular views of stars and moon shimmering over water.

At Deep Sky Eye, where visitors can overnight in a cozy, clear dome Sky Bubble tent in summer and participate in programs year-round including the Nocturnal Sky Theatre outdoor program, Tim Doucette says stargazing appeals for many reasons.

“A general curiosity, wonder, and it helps people reconnect with the universe, even though they might not think they need it.

Having an understanding of how special we are as a species and our place in the heavens sometimes makes people appreciate our little blue dot a bit more.”

Tim D

North Mountain in Cape Breton Highlands with no lights, sparse traffic, and lookoffs like the North Bay lookoff overlooking the Aspy Fault Line.

Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site is home to Nova Scotia’s only dark-sky preserve. In the southwest Nova UNESCO Biosphere, the area has the darkest skies in the province. Add in learning about Mi’kmaw cultural traditions, and it is ideal landscape to discover how stars have long inspired story, song, and legend. Guided programs (due to COVID-19, visitors should confirm available activities) are offered at the sky circle in summer and visitors can join guided night hikes, night paddles and even night bike rides, or rent a Dark Sky Kit for a self-guided experience. Kejimkujik also hosts an annual Dark Sky Weekend, that brings in partners from RASC’s local chapter.

Malcolm Seaboyer, marketing coordinator with Yarmouth & Acadian Shores Tourism Association, says the region, designated the first starlight reserve and starlight tourist destination by The International Starlight Foundation in 2014, offers incredible viewing.

DEEP SKY EYE OBSERVATORY

Stargazing tips from local experts • Be prepared. Evenings can be cool. Dress warmly and bring a blanket to lay back and enjoy the show.

• Clear skies are essential. Pick a night when there’s little or no clouds in the forecast and little to no moon.

• Pick a site away from exterior light sources. Let your eyes adjust to the darkness. If camping, close all lights and don’t start a fire.

• Try stargazing in winter or fall. The night sky tends to be clearer in winter than summer. Also, since darkness falls earlier, there’s no need to stay up past your bedtime.

• Familiarize yourself with the viewing location in the daytime to get a sense of the layout.

• Set up any equipment before dark.

• Red headlamps are best for finding your way around dark locations, they have less effect on your ability to see at night.

• Download an astronomy app to assist in orientation of the sky.

Nocturnal Sky Theatre, Deep Sky Eye Observatory

Tidal Bay The perfect complement to Nova Scotia seafood or to share with friends.

GRANDPREWINES.COM

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

69

Yes, food does taste better outside Dining while adventuring in nature isn’t limited to burgers and s’mores STORY AND PHOTOS BY SANDRA PHINNEY

I

t’s day one of a three-day canoe trip on the West Saint Mary’s River in Nova Scotia. We’ve seen bears and eagles, and also pulled our canoes ashore to hike to a couple of waterfalls. Later, approaching dusk, we are four happy but played-out paddlers—and famished.

While setting up our campsite, Nicola Roberts-Fenton starts a campfire. Within minutes she’s retrieved four packets from her food stash. Each contains pork tenderloin, chunks of onion and potatoes to which she had added a splash of olive oil and a sprinkling of herbs. They were wrapped in parchment paper and re-wrapped in foil.

She tucked these next to the fire on an egg carton filled with briquettes that had been wrapped in newspaper.

By the time our tents were up, dinner was ready. Someone murmured “Food always tastes better outside.” An old cliché, but oh-so-true!

Nicola and I have since exchanged several recipes that we love to prepare either for day trips or longer ventures. One of her favourites is quesadillas. “These are super easy. You can get as creative as you like,” Nicola says, “and prepare the fillings ahead of time.”

Here’s how to proceed: heat 1 tbsp of oil in your skillet. Place a tortilla in the pan, add grated mozzarella cheese, topped off with fillings such as sliced tomatoes, peppers, sweet onion, spinach, black beans, or corn.

Top with another tortilla. Press together with a spatula. When the cheese has melted and the other ingredients are warm, flip over for a few more minutes. Cut in wedges and serve with sour cream or salsa.

You can also make breakfast quesadillas with scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, and cheddar cheese. Cook the meats and eggs

70

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

first, then follow the same procedure. Heat ‘er up, flip over, and enjoy!

Another easy recipe to make in the bush (or your backyard) is falafel pitas. As a timesaver, Nicola recommends Epicure or Casbah falafel mix. The beauty of this is that you simply add water, form into 2-inch patties, cook in a bit of oil then place inside your pita “pocket” along with some hummus and chopped veggies. (I vote for cukes!)

On long trips, when weight is a factor, I love to make Murkha Dal. It’s loaded with protein, and easy to pack. In a small container, put 1/2 cup butter, 2 tsp mustard seeds, 1 tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp salt, 2 chopped garlic cloves and a finely chopped Jalapeno pepper. Bring along 1 C red lentils and one package of dry coconut milk powder. You’ll also need 4 C water.

Method: melt the butter ingredients and heat until seeds pop. Add the lentils, water, and coconut powder. Mix then cover and simmer for 30-45 minutes until thick. Stir often. Serve over rice.

TIPS: if weight is not a factor, you can make the dal at home and freeze it. This will help keep other foods cool in your backpack or cooler. If you are using a butane burner, instant rice cooks quickly and will use less fuel than regular rice.

It’s easy to add smoked fish or meat jerky to any meal; they pack well; don’t need to be cooked; and don’t add much weight.

Have a sweet tooth? Make banana boats!

Slice a banana lengthwise down the middle (not quite all the way through). Gently pry open and insert any of the following:

chocolate chips, mini marshmallows, coconut, dried fruit, nuts, sprinkles— you get the idea. Wrap in two sheets of tin foil and place on campfire coals.

After 4-5 minutes, turn over; leave for another 2 minutes.

Grab a spoon and eat right out of the tinfoil. Kids of all ages (including their parents and grandparents) love this.

For a walk on the wild side, how about bannock on a stick? Mix 3 C flour, 2 tbsp baking powder, ½ tsp salt. Work in ½ C butter with a fork or your hands. Add ¾ C of water. Mix and knead together. Now cut a 3-4 ft. branch about 1 inch in diameter. Roll out a handful of dough like a long cigar, flatten to ½ in., wind and wrap around the top of the stick. Roast over coals about 10 minutes, turning often.

A few moons ago I had the good fortune of paddling with Phil Tower on Ponhook Lake. When we returned to camp, he placed a whole chicken with carrots and potatoes in a cast iron pot, added seasonings, and put the lid on. Then he proceeded to light a small pile of briquettes on top of a rock (it could also have been on the ground), set the pot on top of the briquettes, then added more briquettes on top of the lid. One

hour later I was eating a delectable chicken dinner fit for royalty!

On one of my journeys to Labrador, while walking along a boardwalk on the coast of Rigolet, I came upon some kayakers who invited me to join them for dinner. They had made a fire flanked by rocks in a U-shape and straddled two flat rocks across the top over the fire. After oiling the flat rocks, outfitter Benoit Havard placed two salmon stuffed with corn, chopped onion, and diced green peppers on top.

Although the fish took more than 30 minutes to cook on each side, it was one of the most memorable meals I’ve ever eaten.

Yes, food does taste better outside.

Top: Phil Tower checks on the chicken he’s cooked (yes, it’s ready!). Left: Choosing the toppings for banana boats is almost as fun as eating them. Nicola Roberts-Fenton, her son Easton, Verna Wirth and Ken Pothier agree.

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

71

and terrifying tales

BIGSTOCK/ GUTAPER

Sinners, spirits

East Coast ghost tours thrill, chill and educate

Cossit House Museum, Sydney

18th century clothing for this “Ghosts and Legends of Historic Sydney,” tour is warning us about what we might find inside.

The stories of jealousy, greed, foul deeds and grisly deaths set here seem endless.

Earlier in the tour, in the full light of day, we stood before a private home said to be haunted by troubled spirits. Long ago, the basement served as a jail. Its most infamous inmates were involved in the 1833 Flahaven murder case. Mrs. Flahaven and her eldest daughter became overly fond of two men taking shelter in the family barn. One thing led to another, and the two scoundrels violently murdered Mr. Flahaven. They made a mess of the burial, leaving a hand sticking up out of the ground. Eventually, a dog led searchers to the victim.

72

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

CONFEDERATION CENTRE OF THE ARTS

T

here’s not a cloud in the sky today in Sydney, Nova Scotia. I’m with a small group standing in the sunshine before the Cossit House Museum, built in 1787, just one of many historically significant buildings in Sydney’s North-End Heritage Conservation District. Our guide, dressed in

The men were captured and locked up grow out of real, often ghastly crimes, epic in that basement jail while the people of betrayals and violent ends. Ghost tours are the town quickly built a gallows in what is popular in many of these historic places. now Victoria Park. Lumber was in such short Some tours are unofficial and only available supply, they borrowed from a house under when requested. Ask at any historic inn, construction. After the murderers were hotel or B&B, and you may be rewarded. dispatched, the lumber was returned and At the Algonquin Resort in St. Andrews, the house completed. Ever since, residents New Brunswick, the reward is a creepy tour have reported apparitions all over this through the belly of the building where neighbourhood, including at the former jail guests never go, to hear stories of phantoms and at the house built with tainted lumber. said to haunt the resort. It’s rumoured that This and other stories of Stephen King stayed here before he wrote troubled spirits are fresh in The Shining and the resort may have been my mind as our guide opens an inspiration. the door to the Cossit House But most guided tours are carefully Museum where she and other crafted experiences like The Haunted staff have felt the presence of the Lunenburg Tour, or Valley Ghost Walks in supernatural. Cossit House—one communities around the Annapolis Valley, of the oldest buildings on Cape led by Jerome the Gravekeeper. In the heart Breton Island—depicts life in of Newfoundland and Labrador’s capital, 18th century Sydney at the time the guide on the St. John’s Haunted Hike of its original owner Reverend recounts chilling tales of deadly duels and Ranna Cossit, his wife Thankful and 10 of their 13 children. As I step into the hall, the sun shines through the doorway, lighting up a flight of stairs and doorways to other rooms. The front door closes behind us and I’m blind.

I remove my sunglasses and grope for the stair rail. Footsteps shuffle away from me, but I can’t Cameron B. MacDonald, move. A sudden, cold draft flows Charlottetown’s Gravedigger like an animal down the stairs, raising hairs on my neck and goosebumps on my arms. public hangings as his procession passes unmarked grave sites and silent cemeteries.

A ghost around every corner Stories of slaughtered soldiers, deadly trysts Cities and towns across the Atlantic and suspicious fires are told on streets and Provinces are among the oldest in the down alleys often shrouded in fog. Charlottecountry. The depth of that history is fertile town’s Gravedigger, dressed in a black ground for tales of the supernatural that bowler hat, leads guests by lamplight to DARCY RHYNO

BY DARCY RHYNO

PARKS CANADA/DWILSON

“A sudden, cold draft flows like an animal down the stairs, raising hairs on my neck and goosebumps on my arms…”

spooky spots where he tells tales of superstitions, executions and unsolved murders.

Some are skeptical of supposed supernatural phenomena, but whether your hair stands on end when a guide describes apparitions in the attic or if you scoff at the thought of souls made restless after some dastardly deed, ghost tours are rewarding in other ways. For one, they’re a fun way to learn local history.

In New Brunswick, the Mysterious Mistress leads guests on the Haunted Saint John Tour. Starting at the Imperial Theatre, the route leads to the Old Saint John Courthouse, through the Old Burial Ground and ends at historic Loyalist House, the oldest original building in the city. The Mistress weaves local history, legends and ghost stories with the investigations of Loyalist City Paranormal.

Halifax Citadel National Historic Site Ghost Tours

At Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, a guide in 18th century military attire holding a lantern welcomes guests at the drawbridge. Each guest is given a lantern of their own, the flickering glow lighting the way along passageways and into hidden chambers deep within the stone walls of the fort. These spooky spaces are all at the centre of a modern city, but the setting is forgotten when picking your way among the shadows down a dark tunnel to a dank prison cell where a guide recounts in grim detail the daily lives and afterlives of those long ago departed.

Even in the full light of day Back at Cossit House in Sydney, I walk briskly away from the stairway and into the darkness toward the others, joining them just as they open the door to the back room,

flooding the hallway with light. I look behind me. There is no person or thing to see.

The guide leads us through a back door into the small kitchen garden and the sunshine. From here, she says, we’ll walk to St. George’s Anglican Church and its cemetery to hear about the man who committed crimes so monstrous, he was murdered for them, then denied burial with his family. His apparition still paces the grounds in search of a resting place beside his parents and siblings. I take a deep breath and follow our guide, thankful that the next part of the tour is in the full light of day.

Ghostly tours NOTE: Because tour dates continue to be uncertain, please check with the websites to schedule for yourselves.

Ghosts and Legends of Historic Sydney oldsydneysociety.org Valley Ghost Walks valleyghostwalks.com Charlottetown’s Gravedigger confederationcentre.com/whats-on/ gravedigger-ghost-tours St. John’s Haunted Hike hauntedhike.com

Lunenburg Walking Tours

CONTRIBUTED PHOTO

Haunted Lunenburg lunenburgwalkingtours.com Haunted Saint John Tour facebook.com/HauntedSJTours

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

73

From dietary restriction

to dietary revolution Food diversity is the name of the game in Atlantic Canada

BY JOHANNE AND ALAIN BOSSÉ

74

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

NEW BRUNSWICK TOURISM / HEMMINGS HOUSE

I

n the past having dietary restrictions made traveling difficult in many cases and practically impossible in others.

Sometimes these restrictions can stem from medical necessity but often times they are the result of lifestyle choices.

From years spent in the hospitality industry I can tell you that not so long ago, medical conditions were tolerated; but asking a chef to change his menu due to a personal preference could often cause a rift in the kitchen.

Fortunately, I have also seen a definite shift in recent years to a much more open and respectful approach to looking after clients’ needs.

Those preparing our foods have come to realize that those who choose not to eat gluten—whether it’s due to celiac disease or whether it’s a personal choice—are all valued customers and all are deserving of the same care and caution when having food prepared.

There has also been a huge shift towards plant-based options. A sector of the service industry that formerly only had a very small portion of menu real estate dedicated to it, is now one of the fastest growing food sectors in North America.

Atlantic Canada is surprisingly food forward when it comes to food diversity.

Given its small size and largely rural population, one could be forgiven for thinking that we may lag behind but a look at our culinary landscape tells a decidedly different story.

While this is by no means exhaustive, we offer up a directory of food vendors, restos, cafés and pubs that offer gluten-free and plant based/vegan fare to help make your travel adventures around Atlantic Canada a little easier—not to mention delicious!

Cafe Lotus Bleu International

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND Vegan/Vegetarian Stir It Up PEI 902-394-7364 stirituppei@gmail.com 6 Prince St, Charlottetown Vegetarian/Vegan Restaurant Splendid Essence 186 Prince St, Charlottetown 902-566-4991 splendidessence.com Green Eatery Vegetarian 51 Grafton St, Charlottetown 902-370-8281 facebook.com/GreenEateryVegetarian Truckin’ Roll (food truck) Ice cream shop Church Street, Grafton St, Charlottetown 902-218-7321 According to our editor, check out the vegan ice cream, especially the coconut banana rolled ice cream. It is divine!

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND Gluten Free Richard’s (gluten free fish n chips) 9 Wharf Rd, York richardsfreshseafood.com

NOVA SCOTIA Vegan/Vegetarian Envie a Vegan Kitchen enviehalifax.com/ info@enviehalifax.com or phone 902-492-4077 anytime Copper Branch Halifax 1474 Lower Water St Halifax, NS, Canada facebook.com/CopperBranchHalifax The Wooden Monkey Halifax thewoodenmonkey.ca/ 1707 Grafton St. Halifax, 902-444-3844

The Wooden Monkey Dartmouth thewoodenmonkey.ca 40 Alderney Dr., #305 Level 2 Alderney Ferry Terminal Dartmouth 902-466-3100 Wild Leek wildleek.ca 2156 Windsor Street, Halifax wildleekhalifax@gmail.com 902-444-5466 Real Fake Meats (Halifax’s first vegan butcher shop) realfakemeatshalifax.square.site 2278 Gottigen St. Halifax, Nova Scotia 902-405-2984 Heartwood Quinpool also GF 902-425-2808 Iloveheartwood.ca 6250 Quinpool Road Halifax Heartwood By the Sea also GF Lower Water Street, between Salter and Sackville Streets on the Halifax Waterfront (seasonal) The Rolled Oat Café 402 Main St, Wolfville therolledoat.com 902-542-9884 JJ’s Plant Based Eats facebook.com/JJs-Plant-BasedEats-112183293691616/ 54 Prince St, Sydney Stone Soup Cafe and Catering 41 Water St, Pictou 902-485-4949 facebook.com/Stonesoupcafeandcatering Offers Vegan/vegetarian and Gluten Free

NOVA SCOTIA Gluten Free Crystany’s Brasserie 9848 Main St, Canning 902-582-3663 crystanysbrasserie.com First certified gluten-free restaurant in Canada.

Odell’s Gluten Free Bakery & Cafe Rockingham Ridge Dental Centre 30 Farnham Gate Rd, Halifax odellsgfcafe.com 902-405-6465

Crystany’s Brasserie

Catch of the Bay Fish and Chips Masstown Market 902-662-2816 Ext 237 10622 Nova Scotia Trunk 2, Debert masstownmarket.com/shop/thelighthouse/fish-and-chips

NEW BRUNSWICK Vegan/Vegetarian Cafe Lotus Bleu International 52 Chemin Canada, Edmundston Phone: 506-739-8259 facebook.com/cafelotusbleu Veggie Vietnam Vegetarian/Vegan Restaurant 367 Champlain St, Dieppe 506 854-7170 veggievietnam.com facebook.com/veggievietnam Copper Branch Dieppe CopperBranchDieppe@gmail.com Telephone 506-853-8552 Veena’s Kitchen Farmers market, Moncton Phone: 506-962-9404 facebook.com/veena.sharmaq

NEW BRUNSWICK Gluten Free Cackling Goose Market 38 York St, Sackville cacklinggoosemarket.ca 506-536-2303 MOCO Downtown 100 Regent Street, Fredericton 506-455-6626 mocodowntown.ca

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR Vegan/Vegetarian Peaceful Loft Vegetarian Restaurant 250 Duckworth St, St. John’s 709-701-8421 facebook.com/pages/PeacefulLoft/1518242515103337 Green Kitchen 47 Harvey Road St. John’s 709-237-2223 greenkitchennl.ca

Calactus Vegetarian Restaurant 125 Church St, Moncton Phone: 506-388-4833 facebook.com/calactusrestaurant

The Sprout Restaurant 364 Duckworth St, St. John’s thesproutrestaurant.com 709- 579-5485 Newfoundland's first vegetarian restaurant, located in the heart of St. John’s, has been open since June 2005.

VEGolution Foods Inc. 26 Germain St, Uptown Saint John 506-643-8401 vegolution.ca

Gypsy & Ginger Vegan restaurant St. John’s City 709-691-8005

Cinnamon Café 469 King St, Fredericton 506-454-9011 cinnamoncafe.org The Abbey Café & Gallery 546 Queen St, Fredericton 506-455-6368 facebook.com/abbeycafegallery

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR Gluten Free Nourish Bakery Specialise in Gluten free 1304 Topsail Rd, Paradise, NL A1L 1N9 709-747-2867 nourishbakery.ca

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

75

PARKS CANADA

Oasis, Kejimkujik National Park

Camping made simpler No packing a tent when you opt for glamping

BY PHILIP MOSCOVITCH

A

lice Evans enjoys camping with her family. But with a small car, it’s hard—if not impossible—to pack enough gear for a comfortable trip.

So instead, Evans goes glamping, renting an oTENTik at Kejimkujik National Park. oTENTiks are A-frame structures with a canvas roof that come with furniture and other amenities—meaning there is a lot less to pack. And there are other advantages too. “It’s really comfortable to have beds so you’re not sleeping on the ground. I like that you can stand up, and if it rains you’re not soaked,” said Evans, who lives in Halifax.

Glamping (a combination of the words “glamour” and “camping”) has taken off in Atlantic Canada over the last decade.

National parks provided some of the first glamping opportunities in the region, but now there is an abundance of new—and fancier—accommodations: treetop pods, geodesic domes, even heated sky bubble tents with a view of the stars.

76

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

Wendi Dewey, who teaches in the business tourism program at Nova Scotia Community College, says glamping is ideal “for people who want to be out in nature but don’t want to give up some of the amenities of home or a hotel room.” Dewey said Atlantic Canada is an ideal glamping location: “We have so many wilderness spaces in our region, with beautiful scenic views and places to enjoy nature.”

Provincial tourism departments don’t break out glamping numbers, but spokespeople note there are new operators appearing every year. Tourism Nova Scotia’s Zandra Alexander said glamping accounts for “some of most popular experiences tested with Tourism Nova Scotia’s market panels.” The organization now has an “Unusual lodging” page on its website. It includes a yurt on a private island, luxury domes with queen-size beds, and a B&B aboard a boat. Newfoundland and Labrador also breaks out glamping on a separate

web page, highlighting national parks and private operators with yurts and furnished platform tents.

Sheila Arsenault runs Treetop Haven in central PEI. She offers geodesic domes, some with hot tubs, on platforms in the woods. Arsenault, who worked in Saskatchewan potash mines as a red seal electrician before returning to the Island, said “The men like it because you’re out in the woods, and the women like that everything is ready and you don’t have to pack up everything.”

(She added some couples don’t fit that description, but there is often one person more outdoorsy than the other.)

Montreal-based Fanny La Croix is in one of those couples. She has stayed in a yurt in Fundy National Park with a friend, and said, “I have great memories of that place. There’s a little stove in there, a beautiful view of the ocean, you get a picnic table, and you cook outside. And it’s comfortable!” But she’s hasn’t had any luck convincing her husband

Atlantic Canada is an ideal glamping locale: wilderness and beautiful scenic vistas, and

Treetop Haven, PEI

oTENTik, Fundy National Park

NEW BRUNSWICK TOURISM/AARON MCKENZIE FRASER

to do it. He’d prefer a cottage with all the amenities.

Arsenault said glamping has “taken off quite a bit” over the last four years and that part of the reason is a shift in expectations.

Where a room was once just a place to sleep, now accommodations are the draw.

“People are in the accommodations a lot longer and more,” she said, so they expect them to be memorable.

Dewey takes it a step farther, saying glampers are looking for “what you can add on to the accommodations, to have an experience.”

La Croix would agree. She said, “It makes it seem more exciting, because you are in a yurt or a treetop nest as opposed to a regular hotel room. We went for walks on the Bay of Fundy. I think there is something to that: the actual experience and accommodation is an excitement in itself.”

And unlike traditional camping, glamping is also more accessible—making it an option for multi-generational holidays. Evans, for instance, has been with her mother, who is in her 70s. “It was great for my mum,” she said. “The beds are good, and if you have disabilities it’s easier, because there are accessible oTENTiks with ramps.”

Dewey doesn’t think glamping will displace camping, but she does think it is here to stay. “Certainly, there will always be campgrounds, there will always be camping in tents, because there is a certain clientele who want to have their outside fire and sleep in a sleeping bag. But there are people who want to get away and get in touch with nature and not give up their comforts,” she said.

As for Evans, she said her kids don’t particularly care where they stay. “They judge it completely in terms of the number of marshmallows. S’mores are the only defining feature.”

HEATHER OGG

comfortable lodgings.

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

77

BIGSTOCK/HOMESTUDIO

Golfing on par Some of the finest courses in the world are in Atlantic Canada

BY DARCY RHYNO

S

World class courses Cabot Links in Inverness on Cape Breton Island is a relatively new course—it opened in 2011—but this 14th hole is already one of the world’s most notorious. It’s been compared to the unforgiving seventh at Pebble Beach. The course itself is consistently ranked among the world’s best, often placing in the top ten. Similarly, its sister course—Cabot Cliffs, opened in 2016—places among the very best.

One contributing factor to these high rankings is their postcard dramatic setting between the Atlantic Ocean and Cape Breton’s ancient mountains, framed on one side by a beach that rises into seaside cliffs and on the other by the village of Inverness.

Designers intentionally created the Cabots to mimic the historic links courses at St. Andrews, Scotland where golf was born some 600 years ago on oceanfront pastures bordered by sand dunes.

The Cabots aren’t the only world class courses among the seven on Cape Breton.

In 1939, legendary course architect Stanley Thompson created Highland Links in Ingonish to attract visitors to Cape Breton Highlands National Park and incorporate the best of its features into his “mountains and oceans course.” With his signature sense of humour, he nicknamed every hole—some in Gaelic—to honour the Scottish heritage of Nova Scotia. It’s easy to end up in a heich o’fash (heap of trouble) on the hole of the same name. On “Canny Slap,” golfers need to apply that strategy for a roll off a steep bank to the flag. At “Mucklemouth Meg,” named for the heroine of a Scottish folktale, the fairway undulates like the surrounding mountains.

The green isle and The Rock Like Cape Breton, many of Prince Edward Island’s 25 courses border the coast, incorporating dunes, seaside ponds and

ADAM HILL/DCBA

omehow, my shot has to drop onto that postage stamp 14th green and not into the choppy Northumberland Strait beyond. I’m hitting into a buffeting westerly off the water. The dense mist blends sky and sea into a wall of grey, blanking out everything beyond the breakers. I’m having difficulty gripping the icy seven iron.

On the one hand, I might overcompensate for the conditions and end up in the drink. On the other, I could underestimate and lie in the gulley between the tee and the green. A sudden gust could push the ball into one of those notoriously deep Cabot Links bunkers. As I tee up, the surf along the ribbon of sand that borders the course pounds like a slow drum roll.

Tee box at Cabot Cliff’s 17th Hole ATLANTIC PROVINCES

79

80

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

NEW BRUNSWICK TOURISM

idyllic countryside into their best holes, ranking this green isle as one of the world’s great golfing destinations.

Often considered the island’s finest, Crowbush opened to rave reviews in 1994 when it was named Canada’s best new course. Pros like John Daly, Mike Weir and Fred Couples have played here. Together, Brudenell and Dundarave form the East Coast’s only 36-hole championship course.

When they hosted the Legends of Golf tournament in 2006, golfing icons Jack Nicklaus and Tom Watson faced off here.

On the East Coast’s largest island— Newfoundland, aka The Rock—and even on the mainland in Labrador, visitors to that province can knock the ball around on more than 20 courses. The most scenic among them is The River Course, tucked into the west coast mountains at the Humber Valley Resort. Some holes follow the Humber River and others the shoreline of Deer Lake. It’s another East Coast beauty named best new course in Canada when it opened. Golf Magazine went further, naming it best new international course.

On the opposite coast in the city of St. John’s, Pippy Park is home to two courses. The 18-hole championship Admiral’s Green includes a fully appointed clubhouse. From the 9-hole Captain’s Hill, golfers often pause to admire the panoramic The Algonquin Resort views of the city, Signal Hill and the open Atlantic Ocean.

Terra Nova Golf Resort is home to scenic vistas and at times the challenging yet another pair of courses. As the name weather that goes with it. Holes 12 and suggests, the 18-hole Twin Rivers inside 13 in particular are renowned for their Terra Nova National Park crisscrosses two views of Passamaquoddy Bay. Golf has salmon rivers that tumble and flow through been played here since1894, but recent the surrounding forest. The 9-hole Eagle course renovations have moved it higher in Creek course has the distinction of being rankings and brought it closer to Scotland’s designed by native Newfoundlander, Robert original courses.

Walsh.

Among New Brunswick’s 48 courses, Gowan Brae of Bathurst—nicknamed The other St. Andrews the Pebble Beach of New Brunswick—is The Algonquin Resort’s course in St. known for its tricky fairways and difficult Andrews is rated among the best in New greens. Kingswood Park in Fredericton Brunswick. Not only does the town share its offers yet another double course play: the name with the birthplace of golf in Scotland, 18-hole Signature Course—it incorporates a its course shares a seaside setting with waterfall—and the 9-hole Executive Course.

The Royal Oaks in Moncton, Fox Creek in Dieppe and Rockwood Park in Saint John are among the others that deserve mention.

Hidden gems and panoramic sunsets Some East Coast courses are indeed ranked among the finest in Canada and the

world, but one of the joys of golfing here is discovering the hidden gems. Take the course at Digby Pines Golf Resort and Spa. As another designed by Stanley Thompson, it takes full advantage of its location next to the Bay of Fundy overlooking the Annapolis Basin. The ferry from New Brunswick docks within a stone’s throw, so it makes a perfect stop on an East Coast golfing tour.

Back on Cabot Links’ 14th hole, I swing and

follow the ball as it nearly disappears into the heavy mist, landing just beyond the green to snuggle into the beach grasses. I bogey the hole, complete the round and duck into the Panorama Restaurant overlooking the 18th green and order dinner. As I warm up with a drink, the mist clears and the clouds part enough for a signature Cape Breton sunset, punctuating a golfing experience on par with the world’s best.

Humber Valley Resort

2021 Play and Stay Packages Two Night Stay, Three days of unlimited golf with a car

Sunday to Wednesday

Thursday to Saturday

1 person @ $315 2 People @ $280 per person 3 people @ $260 per person 4-6 people @ $235 per person

1 Person @ $345 2 people @ $315 per person 3 People @ $290 per person 4-6 People @ $270 per person

Phone: 902-275-4956 ATLANTIC PROVINCES

81

Hotel North

www.hotelnorth.ca The place to stay while you are away Happy Valley-Goose Bay, NL • St. Anthony, NL • North Sydney, NS • North West River, NL HOTEL NORTH Happy Valley-Goose Bay, NL 25 Loring Dr 1-877-996-9301 1-709-896-9301

HOTEL NORTH TWO Happy Valley-Goose Bay, NL 382 Hamilton River Rd

• Newly Renovated Rooms • Free Wifi • Mariner’s Galley on Site Restaurant • Smoke Free Pet Free

• Jungle Jim’s On Site Restaurant • Conference & Banquet Facility

1-888-892-5505 1-709-896-3398

• Free Wifi

HOTEL NORTH ST ANTHONY

• Newly Renovated Rooms

St. Anthony, NL 31-51 West St 1-855-454-3300 1-709-454-3300

• Smoke Free Pet Free

• Free Wifi • Jungle Jim’s on Site Restaurant • Smoke Free Pet Free

HOTEL NORTH, NORTH SYDNEY

• Newly Renovated Rooms

North Sydney, NS 39 Forrest St

• Conference & Banquet Facility

1-800-561-8585 1-902-794-8581

MOTEL NORTH North West River, NL 13 Paddon Rd 1-877-996-9301 1-709-896-9301 C: 1-709-897-5745

• Free Wifi

• Smoke Free Pet Friendly • Mariners Galley on Site Restaurant • 1 & 2 Bedroom efficiency Units • Laundry Facility • Smoke Free Pet Free • Free Wifi • NWR Beach in walking distance

Natural wonders, UNESCO certified Atlantic Canada is home to numerous biosphere reserves and geoparks, perfect for exploring

FUNDY BIOSPHERE RESERVE

BY DALE DUNLOP

Fundy Biosphere Reserve

I

n 2020’s edition of Food & Travel, I described Atlantic Canada’s seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, each worthy of worldwide recognition. However, these are not the only outstanding places in the region to be recognized by UNESCO. In addition to World Heritage Sites, there are Biosphere Reserves and Geoparks and once again Atlantic Canada is at the forefront with three Biosphere Reserves and three Geoparks; with a fourth close by. Here’s why you will want to visit each one.

The Biosphere Reserves The UNESCO website defines Biosphere Reserves as “learning places for sustainable development.” The reserves are nominated by the federal government and contain a commitment to treat and develop designated reserves in a manner consistent with maintaining biodiversity. In other words, these are places that have unique ecosystems that warrant extra protection

to save them for future generations to enjoy and appreciate. Not surprisingly, they are well known to most Atlantic Canadians.

The first to be designated was the Southwest Nova Biosphere Reserve in 2001, and it is massive with 1.5 million hectares spanning five counties in Southwest Nova Scotia. Within its boundaries are Kejimkijuk National Park and the Tobeatic Wilderness area. It contains the largest remaining tracts of original Acadian forest in Nova Scotia, and has been a cultural crossroads for 4,000 years. Best explored by canoe, the reserve is the headwaters for a dozen rivers including the Shelburne, a Canadian Heritage River.

In 2007 much of the New Brunswick coastline along the Bay of Fundy became the Fundy Biosphere Reserve. Aside from the world’s highest tides and the amazing rock formations the area is well known for, the reserve protects one of the most important shorebird migration sites in the world. The reserve’s website lists an

incredible fifty-eight separate adventures that visitors can undertake some reachable only from the 41.4 km. Fundy Footpath that traverses much of the reserve.

The third Biosphere Reserve is another natural marvel that is also unique in the world, the Bras D’Or Lake, which received its designation in 2011. Technically neither a lake nor an inland sea, as often described, this reserve covers the entire 1,000 kilometre-plus shoreline of what is ecologically an estuary. Also included is the entirety of the watershed of the Bras D’Or Lake. The beauty of this area has long been a major tourism magnet and with the UNESCO designation, that will enhance the area’s reputation even more so as people from around the world are drawn to these sites.

The Geoparks The UNESCO Geoparks have different criteria for designation than the Biosphere Reserves. According to the official website ATLANTIC PROVINCES

83

CONTRIBUTED PHOTO

TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA / PHOTOGRAPHER: ACORN ART PHOTOGRAPHY

Spirit Reins Ranch, Cliffs of Fundy Geopark

Stonehammer Geopark

Southwest Nova Biosphere Reserve swnovabiosphere.ca Fundy Biosphere Reserve fundy-biosphere.ca Bras D’Or Lake Biosphere Reserve blbra.ca

CONTRIBUTED PHOTO

Stonehammer Geopark stonehammergeopark.ca

Discovery Geopark

Discovery Geopark discoverygeopark.com

Geoparks are unified geographical areas where sites and landscapes of international geological significance. There are only five in all Canada, three of them in the Atlantic provinces.

they are “single, unified geographical areas where sites and landscapes of international geological significance are managed with a holistic concept of protection, education and sustainable development.” There are only five in all of Canada and Atlantic Canada has three of them—with the fourth not far away at Percé Rock on Quebec’s Gaspé Peninsula.

Stonehammer was the first Geopark to be designated in all of North America.

It is centred around the city of Saint John, New Brunswick and until I first visited the geological sites that make up Stonehammer a few years ago, I had no idea that the area is among the most complex geologically on the planet. There is a continuous record in rock going back almost a billion years here, covering eight distinct geological eras from the Pre-Cambrian to the present-day

84

ATLANTIC PROVINCES

Quaternary. The Stonehammer website provides guidance as to where you can see rocks and fossils from all of these eras.

One of the most interesting things to do at Stonehammer is to kayak the waters of the Saint John River above Reversing Falls, to see some of oldest fossils in the world, stromatolites. These earliest forms of life have been dated as far back as 3.5 billion years, but the one’s at Stonehammer are “only” 800 million years old.

While the Nova Scotia side of the Bay of Fundy was not designated as a Biosphere Reserve, the Cliffs of Fundy was designated a Geopark in 2020. Running from the head of Cobequid Bay to the steep cliffs of Cape Chignecto, this area has long been recognized for its fossils and semi-precious gemstones such as garnet and amethyst.

Lesser known is that this area is considered the best place on earth to study the creation and break-up of the super continent Pangea from 300 million to 200 million years ago.

The website identifies 30 geosites that can be explored on foot or from the waters of the Bay of Fundy.

Also designated in 2020 was the Discovery Geopark on the upper portion of the Bonavista Peninsula in Newfoundland. The Discovery Geopark allows tourists to drive to a number of the geosites which have intriguing names such as The Devil’s Footprints and The Dungeon.

In 2021, more than ever, people will be looking for safe and fascinating destinations they can explore in the outdoors and these biosphere reserves and geoparks will be the perfect places to do just that.

Never miss a chance to enjoy some

Fresh Air

Travel by Ferry

Prince Edward Island Nova Scotia

New Brunswick Nova Scotia

Ferries.ca

Ferry Service between Yarmouth, NS and Bar Harbor, Maine

86

Y O U R I N T I M A T E G U I D E T O C A N A D A’ S E A S T C O A S T

Y O U R I N T I M A T E G U I D E T O C A N A D A’ S E A S T C O A S T

87

Set Sail on a Summer Maritime Adventure Travel between PEI, NB, and NS with your closest friends and family Over the last year, travel across the world has looked much different than what we’re used to. While it was a challenge with many changes, we learned to appreciate the beauty of the Maritimes and discover all the adventures we could go on with our bubble, right in our own backyard. A ride on the ferries that connect our Maritime provinces gave us a welcome change of scenery as we relaxed onboard with water views of the rugged coastline of Nova Scotia, the mesmerizing tides of New Brunswick, and the gentle beaches of Prince Edward Island.

This summer, let us handle the driving on your Maritime adventure. Get out of your car, stretch your legs and spend

88

ADVERTISING FEATURE

quality time with your closest friends and family on board the ferry. A voyage on one of our ferries is more than just a pit stop on your trip, it’s a place to be together and make memories that will last a lifetime.

When it’s safe to do so, we’re excited to welcome back travellers and re-introduce some of the amenities that our passengers have come to love for over 80 years. We’ve taken extra measures to ensure the health and safety of our passengers and crew while letting you move around the vessel and breathe that refreshing ocean air or enjoy a light snack or meal.

Take your travel off the road and onto Fundy Rose as you travel across the Bay of Fundy between Saint John, New Brunswick and Digby, Nova Scotia. Not only will you save hours of driving time on this passage that takes two hours and fifteen minutes, you get to enjoy the pleasure of a fresh sea breeze with time to recline and relax with the best views.

When you’re sailing on Fundy Rose, enjoy a taste of Western Nova Scotia with a hot beverage from Sip at Sea. The original Sip Café started in Yarmouth, NS in 2012, located in a small space in a drug store. It’s so popular now that it’s moved into a much bigger Yarmouth location and there’s a second shop in Meteghan, NS. If your idea of vacation involves brewed coffee, cappuccinos, lattés, and specialty tea, then you’ll feel content on Fundy Rose.

You don’t even need to bring your car on Fundy Rose when booking an overnight package at Digby Pines Golf Resort and Spa. A complimentary shuttle service brings you back and forth between the ferry and the golf course. It’s just one way of making your golf getaway even more relaxing as you enjoy a round of golf at the Stanley Thompson golf course, breakfast at Churchill’s Dining Room and one night’s accommodations.

Fundy Rose brings you right to the perfect spot to explore the Acadian Shores of Western Nova Scotia, one of the best-kept secrets of the Maritimes. Not only can you relax and play at Digby Pines, but you’ll find an adventure waiting for the foodie in the family, or the outdoor enthusiast, or the history buff. Digby is the scallop capital of the world, so you know fresh seafood is always an option here. Yarmouth and Acadian Shores is home to the largest Acadian community in the province. Learn about this culture that has been an integral part of Nova Scotia since the 1600s. Or marvel at the night sky in the best place to go stargazing in Nova Scotia at Acadian Skies & Mi’kmaq Lands, home of North America’s first official UNESCO Starlight Reserve.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

89

BIGSTOCK/SOMCHAIPHOTO

Riding the ferry between the red sandstone cliffs of Prince Edward Island to the rocky coastline of Nova Scotia has been a treasured family tradition in the Maritimes for decades. This year Northumberland Ferries Limited celebrates 81 seasons of crossings, as we continue to create new memories for our passengers over the 75-minute passage between Wood Islands, PEI and Caribou near Pictou, NS.

It’s no secret Prince Edward Island is one of the top Canadian destinations for golfers. Golf PEI makes it even easier for ferry passengers looking for a Maritime adventure on one of their 17 courses. Golfers who book a vacation with Golf PEI save $10 on their return ferry ticket with Northumberland Ferries. After a getaway of teeing off with your driver, relax and let someone else do the driving on the way back home.

If you’re looking for a light snack, beverage or meal on the water while traveling from the red sandstone cliffs of Prince Edward Island to the rocky coastline of Nova Scotia, stop by the Salt Water Café. It’s a great way to delight all the senses while overlooking the Northumberland Strait where you’ll find beautiful views and maybe even spot the graceful wildlife that calls this serene stretch of ocean home. If you’re extra lucky, you might even see a playful porpoise.

Bay Ferries and Northumberland Ferries have once again partnered with some of the best destinations and most trusted Maritime companies to make your getaway even more exciting.

Keep an eye out for contests on CTV, giving you and your family a chance to win getaways to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island. Irving Oil makes exploring even easier with special offers that ferries passengers are sure to love.

We’re excited to welcome back our guests on our ferries this summer as you set out on a Maritime adventure with your closest friends and family. Join us for an unforgettable experience at sea.

90

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Fresh food with a side of fresh air

ExplorePEI.com

Where will you go first? tourismnewbrunswick.ca

St. Martins Sea Caves