3 minute read

Gmo Tristan

Gmo Tristan worked three jobs while studying visual arts at Eastfield College, and one of them was in catering. Eventually, he realized that cooking was his true passion, so he enrolled in the pastry program at El Centro before deciding on cuisine. He then worked at a seafood restaurant in Montauk, N.Y., and went to work for Charlie Palmer at The Joule in 2008. He started as a sous chef at Matt McCallister’s FT33 last year. He lives in Oak Cli with his wife, Melissa, and their 6-year-old son, Luca.

What is in your fridge right now?

Pasture-raised eggs. My wife buys them from Vital Farms. Peanut butter and Nutella so I can make sandwiches for my son. We do have a lot of vegetables. My wife likes to do a lot of juicing.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

My co ee maker, whenever I can actually get to use it.

What is the least-used thing in your home kitchen?

Anything having to do with pastries. I have a lot of that stu from when I was a pastry chef.

What is your ideal comfort food?

Anything I can cook at home with my family. Usually chicken, some steamed veggies, maybe some whipped potatoes and a nice hearty salad.

Your significant other has family coming in for the weekend — what do you cook for them?

Fresh-made pasta and a fresh Bolognese sauce. One of my favorite foods is Italian food. A nice hearty salad, a baguette with Parmesan, and that’s probably it.

If you could cook for anyone, who would it be and what would you make? If I could go back, I would probably cook for my grandparents, to show them how far I’ve come along in my career. My grandmother was a cook for the family. My grandfather wasn’t much of a cook, but he would eat anything my grandmother would put in front of him. My grandmother was a big breakfast person, so I would cook her a big breakfast. My grandfather was more of a barbecue man, so I would try to cook barbecue, or if not, I would probably call Jack Perkins [of The Slow Bone] and sneak that in there.

If you had to eat the same lunch every day for the rest of your life, but it could be anything in the world, what would it be?

Breakfast cereal.

What would you have for your last meal on earth?

A nice, big, hearty bowl of ramen is probably the last thing I would want to eat.

It’s your birthday and you are stuck in the neighborhood. What would you like to do?

I would probably get up early, go eat brunch. I usually go to El Jordan, and then afterward, I would want to come home and work on our garden. My wife has this really nice English garden going on in the front yard, and I love the way it looks. We’ve got some vegetables growing in the front as well.

What is your favorite neighborhood restaurant for a quick meal?

In a pinch, El Jordan is always good. I’ve always liked it. It reminds me of my grandparents, so it’s very down-home for me.

What is your favorite local beer?

I’m not really a beer drinker, but I tried that Deep Ellum IPA, and I thought that was really good.

What dish have you created that you’re really proud of?

The one I did for last year’s Chefs for Farmers I was really proud of. It’s a collaboration of things I learned over my career. It was a Moroccan glazed lamb loin, served over a roasted-carrot hummus with fried chickpeas, drunken raisins and cumin almonds.

What’s the worst thing you’ve ever cooked?

Maybe that’s a question for my wife. When I first started out, I remember marinating chicken, and I grilled the chicken and then I poured the marinade over the cooked chicken. She was like, “Uh, we can’t eat that. It’s contaminated.” I didn’t know any better at the time.

What’s on your DVR right now?

I watch a lot of movies. But I also watch whatever my wife watches. “Modern Family” I usually like a good documentary.

What is your favorite major-league sports team?

I used to like hockey a lot, so I guess the Stars.

What is your Starbucks order? Caffe latte, usually. That’s it.

Has a food critic ever hurt your feelings? No, they’re just doing their job.

What’s the best advice you’ve received in your career so far?

Scott Romano, the executive chef at Charlie Palmer, told me that if something doesn’t look right, tell me, and take more time.

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