16 minute read

FOR THE LOVE OF SILOG

Candy Marie Ramos made a place for Filipino food in Dallas

Story by AUSTIN WOOD | Photography by KATHY TRAN

When they first arrived in Dallas, Candy Marie Ramos and her husband, Jay Gersan, noticed a distinct lack of Filipino cuisine within city limits.

“When we got here, we took for granted that we grew up with that food,” Ramos says.

The couple found a small deli space in an office building close to Dallas’ major hospitals and Texas Instruments’ North Campus, they deciding to open Marie’s Kitchen in 2019. After opening as a sandwich-only shop for a week, Ramos and her husband decided to add familiar Filipino breakfast dishes to the menu, becoming an instant hit.

“A lot of people started coming for that, and we converted the people here in the building,” Ramos says.

Ramos and her husband hope to expose their native cuisine to those unfamiliar with it and help launch Filipino food to a similar level of popularity as other Asian varieties.

“We want to be part of the ‘what do you want to eat’ conversation, Chinese, Japanese, Korean or Filipino,” Ramos says.

But what is Filipino breakfast, or silog? Silog is garlic fried rice, an egg and a protein. At Marie’s Kitchen, silog choices include traditional Filipino proteins such as tapsilog (thinly sliced, marinated and cured steak), tocilog (marinated pork belly) and longsilog (a Filipino sausage similar to chorizo), among other options. For first-timers, the owners recommend the tapsilog.

Besides silog, Marie’s Kitchen also serves daily meals, which change weekly and are influenced by regional cuisines from the more than 7,000 islands that make up the Philippines. Examples include Dinuguan, a Filipino pork stew cooked in a rich broth with spices, and Humbà, a braised pork belly dish native to the Visayan Islands, Ramos’ home.

“We try to do cuisine from the dif - ferent islands so people can experience it,” Ramos says.

One of the most eye-catching items on the menu is the ube pancakes. Ube is a purple yam native to the Philippines that gives the pancakes a distinctive dark-purple appearance and has a nutty, vanilla flavor.

“They say it looks like a lot, but it’s not overpowering. It’s a good combo,” Ramos says.

Without formal culinary training, Ramos learned to cook from her family in the Philippines. They own a small restaurant.

“My grandma is a good cook. She does all the curing of meats, and my mom learned from her, and I would just watch them,” Ramos says.

A true mom-and-pop with only two employees, Ramos cooks all of the food while Gersan runs front-ofhouse operations. The couple have two children, ages 18 and 16, who occasionally help out in the restaurant.

“We close early sometimes because we need to be with them. We do take time off because we are doing this for them,” Ramos says.

For Ramos, sticking to the basics and preparing Filipino cuisine in a time-honored tradition is a priority in all of her cooking.

“The way we do it, we try to not change the actual recipe. We want to do it in the traditional way,” Ramos says.

While Ramos wants to appeal to non-Filipino customers, she also hopes to change an internal narrative around their cuisine within parts of the Filipino community.

“We like to make them feel proud of our food, because some people aren’t proud of our food since they think it’s not fancy enough or not good enough,” Ramos says.

In immigrant communities, assimilation can be an uncomfortable reality, with some first- and second-generation Americans becoming disconnected from their cultural background. Ramos says that for Filipino-Amer - icans who may not be familiar with Filipino cuisine, she sees Marie’s Kitchen as a source of reconnection and discovery.

“There’s a lot of Filipino-Americans who don’t really know Filipino cuisine,” Ramos says. “When they try our food, they’re like, ‘So this is how it’s supposed to be.’”

Story by CAROL TOLER | Photography by YUVIE STYLES

LOOKING FOR ADVICE ON TAMING YOUR QUARRELSOME TODDLER? SHOPPING FOR COLORFUL ICED COOKIES TO MATCH YOUR PARTY THEME? NEED A NEW PRESCHOOL FOR YOUR HIGHACHIEVING TWINS? DESPERATE TO FIND A PLUMBER BEFORE FRIENDS ARRIVE FOR DINNER?

Lake Highlands’ free source of expert advice burst onto the scene as a Facebook page called LH Mamas in August 2020. Since then, Graham Rucker and fellow administrators Rebecca Bickett and Savannah Darver have been encouraging neighborhood families to learn from (and lean on) each other.

Rucker, native of Nashville and wife of 2005 Lake Highlands High School graduate Brian Rucker, moved to Dallas to attend SMU and never looked back. She juggles her full-time job managing corporate clients for RethinkCare, where she helps employers with employees caring for children with disabilities, while managing life at home raising 5-year-old Caroline and twin 2-year-olds Claire and Charlotte. Her busy schedule left little time to build a social support network, and she knew wise moms turn to the village when questions get tough.

“It’s difficult to find your people when you move to a new place,” Rucker says. “In Nashville, you go to the grocery store and see 10 people you know. When we moved into our first house on Estate Lane, it was a long time before I felt like I knew anybody. Our goal with LH Mamas is to connect moms in our area so that they can find their people.”

Lake Highlands is a community with rich traditions and deep roots — a place where graduates of the high school often return to raise a family and connect with childhood friends. It’s not easy for newcomers to break into circles formed decades ago.

LH Mamas helps to bridge that gap.

“I’ve met some of my very best friends on the page, and lots of people tell me they’ve done the same,” she says. “If you share what you like and what you need on the page, I guarantee someone will reach out for a coffee date or margarita date. You are not the only one who feels outside the circle.”

Rucker has organized face-to-face happy hours to help members connect and encouraged businesses to host pop-up shops and mini markets. Participants tap into the wisdom of the site’s hive mind to find medical service providers, home contractors, party planners, catering services and small batch entrepreneurs.

Rucker says her favorite aspect is recommending locally owned businesses and watching them grow. One aesthetic service provider polled the group to name her startup, and now her appointment book is full. A mom who monograms children’s purses quickly sold all her stock and had to reorder.

“It’s a way to keep Lake Highlands businesses going and let families know when they need support,” Rucker says. “It’s scary for someone to go out on a limb and start a new business. When they do, we can all step up and support them.”

Often, companies offer free goodies to Rucker, but she declines. In fact, she’s usually first to make a purchase in hopes of vouching for fledgling businesses.

“It’s just exciting to see them take off. I don’t know how the Facebook algorithm works, but I’m glad they get a bump when I post. After that, it just grows naturally. If people go on our site to say, ‘Trust me, you’ll like this restaurant or product or service,’ families are willing to give it a try. Businesses have told me it makes a difference, and that’s exciting.”

In a bygone era, some questions might have gone to real-life moms, aunties or grandmas, or even to Dear Abby in the newspaper. Rucker admits a few should probably go to doctors, lawyers or psychologists, and commenters often suggest that with referrals to match, but no topics are off the table for LH Mamas, who handle hundreds of posts per week.

In the beginning, participants were mostly young moms, but “seasoned” moms now show up to both share advice and seek it. Posters may choose to remain anonymous when the subject matter is sensitive, such as how to find a good divorce lawyer, what to do when your child is the only one in the class not invited to a birthday party and whether or not to tell a friend when their teen is behaving dangerously.

Rucker says one of her toughest tasks is to deal with persistently negative voices and discourage running down businesses after a single unfortunate experience or mistake. Admins prefer not to interfere, but they sometimes remove content to keep the discussion civil.

“We pour a lot of time into it, and it’s stressful but rewarding. I think about the people who felt the way I did when I first moved here. It’s a lonely feeling. Every day, someone gets together with a mom they met on our page, or feels brave enough to go to an event. It’s worth all of it.”

CAMP ON THE BANKS OF CEDAR CREEK LAKE,

TEACHING KIDS TO WATERSKI AND WAKEBOARD FOR 24 YEARS.

Heger knows most of her charges won’t become competitive wakeboarders and trick skiers like her oldest son, Mark, but that’s not the goal. Her philosophy is that every camper can add skills and boost confidence each time he or she gets out on the water.

Heger Camp was the brainchild of Mark and his older sister, Lauren, who set out to earn spending money with a summer camp for friends of their little brother, Steven, in the backyard of their Lake Highlands home. They played games, made crafts and even splashed around in the pool, but they soon decided to move the fun to their East Texas lake house. Neighborhood parents were eager to sign on.

“Everyone was having fun, because they were in a group,” Heger says. “My kids learned lessons about being organized and responsible, and it kept them occupied and working together as a team.”

Heger’s children are now grown, and Mark runs WakeWell, a nonprofit Christian outreach for wakeboarders and watersports lovers. Heger continues to operate her ski camp for children ages 6 to 14 with the help of adult assistants, mostly teachers, and junior counselors, mostly high school and college students who formerly attended her camp.

Some parents who enroll their children are preparing them to attend other camps in bucolic settings with watersports as one of many activity options, and others have a lake house of their own. Whatever puts them behind a boat, it’s important to learn the fundamentals of skiing from experienced instructors, Heger says.

“When I learned to waterski as a kid, they threw me out of the boat and tossed me the rope. They just pulled me and hoped I didn’t drown, and maybe I got up. These skills can be taught. If you know the right words to say and the right way to say them, you can teach anything.”

Heger believes her camp’s success, and the reason kids return year after year, is related to its singular emphasis. It’s all water sports, all the time at Heger Camp — no climbing rock walls, no weaving potholders, no playing dodgeball. At night when it’s too dark to ski, the group plays board games until they tumble into bed exhausted.

“Parents and campers tell us this is their favorite activity all summer. I think it’s because they’re so active at camp. I don’t know what other camps do, but ours is 100% watersports. We don’t do crafts and bows-and-arrows and tennis.”

Heger says friends have called her crazy for taking on the risk of having other people’s kids around the water, and she considers the responsibility a sacred one. She believes instituting procedures — and consequences — has kept her campers safe for more than two decades.

“The main focus of what we do is safety,” says Heger. “Safety is No. 1, even over having fun.”

Heger has embraced her role as enforcer, and she’s developed one rule the kids are surprisingly comfortable with: Cell phones aren’t permitted at camp.

“They’re a distraction. Instead of mingling with the group, kids go off by themselves with their phone. And they’d rather be part of the group,” she says.

The pandemic created challenges for Heger Camp, and a few COVID-era changes remain. When they began in 2000, parents ambled into the bedrooms to unpack student belongings and wandered into the kitchen to have a snack before their hour-long drive back to Dallas. On pick-up day, they arrived an hour early to watch the skiers demonstrate their new skills and helped them pack up their stuff on the way out.

Camp never canceled due to COVID, but these days, kids are dropped at the door to keep visitors — and their germs — at a minimum. “Show Off Day” is a thing of the past, but campers don’t seem to miss it. Every outing on the water is a chance to show off when fellow campers are cheering you on.

Students arrive at camp with a variety of capabilities and skill levels, and they progress at different rates. But the culture of camp is to celebrate every camper’s achievements, large or small. The “rah-rah” environment encourages even tentative types to set new goals and work to meet them.

“Kids enjoy the challenge of improving. As teachers, we enjoy seeing that light bulb go off when the kids really get it. It’s so rewarding to be a part of that. I think the gain in confidence is huge, especially for the campers who tend to not be terribly athletic.

“Most of our first-time campers have never skied or wakeboarded before, but some of the ones that keep coming year after year can do a toehold on the rope on slalom skis. That’s amazing. That’s really hard.

“Each camper advances every year, and they enjoy being with friends. Plus, they love the food,” Heger laughs. “This much activity makes them really hungry.”

THE TITULAR TELEVISION SHOW. HRANITZKY TEACHES

FORENSIC SCIENCE AT LAKE HIGHLANDS HIGH SCHOOL, SHARING THE LATEST TECHNIQUES AND PROCEDURES STUDENTS MAY ONE DAY USE TO SOLVE MURDERS AND OTHER CRIMES.

Hranitzky grew up in Lakewood and studied animal science and entomology at Texas A&M University. Her favorite course was forensic entomology, the study of insects in criminal investigations. Because certain bugs are attracted to dead bodies, they can help scientists estimate time, location and cause of death.

Lake Highlands students can take forensic science as an elective course, and some admittedly see the hour as just one more in a long day. But many hope to pursue a specialty in criminal justice and envision forensic science as the foundation of a future career, she says.

“I have students interested in becoming CSI agents, medical examiners, lawyers, SWAT team agents, arson investigators, police officers, coroners, forensic anthropologists, serologists, fire marshals and others. It’s a diverse group. To have this background information is useful as they pursue their studies and careers.”

Teaching the course gets a little messy, and students say that’s the draw.

“I like the classes to be hands-on,” Hranitzky says. “We do blood spatter analysis, hair and fiber examination, crime scene investigation with mock crime scenes, fingerprint analysis and foot impressions. We study forensic psychology, including serial killers and criminal profiling, and we look into forensic anthropology, including skeletal and facial reconstruction.”

In addition to receiving equipment from Richardson ISD, the forensics department has been supported over the years by Wild for Cats, Lake Highlands’ academic booster club. They recently received new cameras that allow students to take digital crime scene photos, and they use Diablo Highway, a virtual online laboratory that simulates the crime scenes of unsolved murders. Another kit, useful when unidentified bones are discovered, helps find missing persons based on facial reconstruction.

Hollywood loves a good crime story, and Hranitzky encourages her students to watch movies and television shows that accurately depict the work of forensic scientists. She occasionally brings in videos, such as snippets from Netfix’s The Staircase, to demonstrate ways forensic science helped to solve a case. (Spoiler alert: That killer may, or may not, have been an owl.)

Hranitzky warns her charges of the CSI Effect, widely known in legal circles to influence public perception and even jury deliberations. The term, first reported in USA Today in 2004 and named for the CSI: Crime Scene Investigation television show, refers to the belief that jurors in criminal trials today are more likely to demand forensic evidence as proof of guilt and less likely to convict without it.

Hranitzky teaches about the O.J. Simpson murder case, where investigators were seen in television news coverage tromping through the victims’ blood, and a detective transported blood from the crime scene to O.J.’s home before booking it into evidence. Defense attorneys at trial used these as indicators of sloppiness in the collection of forensics or evidence planted by dirty cops. She also teaches about the assassination of President Kennedy in Dallas, where conspiracy theories abound.

“I like to make real-world connections. We take case studies and dissect them. It’s interesting to hear what the students think. They hear about current cases on television or the internet and come into class trying to figure them out. We talked a lot about Gabby Pepito when she was missing. That case was heartbreaking.”

Hranitzky knows not all her students will enter careers that put their forensic skills to use. Every good citizen, though, will benefit from understanding its principles, and some may need the concepts while serving on a jury.

“It’s important to know why cases did or didn’t go well in court,” she says. “Perhaps evidence wasn’t collected properly. Maybe it wasn’t preserved or labeled correctly. Every case is different. Our natural curiosity comes over us, and we want to know the why about things. It’s a joy to teach this class, and I love what I do. I get to connect with the students and see what they are interested in, and I weave that into the lessons.”

Hranitzky began with three sections of her course, and now she teaches 150 students in six classes. She also takes the Wildcat Forensics Team to competition. She’s careful not to let the classroom discussion get gruesome, and she warns students about photos they may opt not to see. Her kids know what they’ve signed up for, though, and they rarely take a pass.

On a warm day in April, students worked in groups with synthetic blood and a variety of instruments to create a multitude of blood spatter patterns. They were analyzing what blood looks like at a violent crime scene. But could Hranitzky be teaching them how to get away with murder?

“No,” she laughs. “They joke about that, but I tell them to not even think about it. They’ll get caught every time.”

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