THE WINE COLUMN

By Michael Welsh, K.C.*

The Age Of Riesling

I have said it before on this subject, but it bears repeating: Jancis Robinson, arguably the world’s most famous wine critic, is far from mad. Rather, she remains ahead of the curve, as she advocated for Riesling for years when it was otherwise ignored as a rather sweet and low alcohol concoction from Germany in a world that was gravitating toward heavily oaked Chardonnays and blockbuster reds from California and Australia. Now the world is increasingly following in her direction, back to lighter and more nuanced wines, of which Riesling can be the apotheosis. Wine writers are touting its manifold forms from several regions in addition to Germany, most notably Alsace in France, Austria, Australia, Ontario, New Zealand, New York, Washington and here in British Columbia. Hugh Johnson (Robinson’s main competitor for top critic) calls it “the epitome of the most aromatic, least full-bodied, most transparent and brilliant in flavour” of wines.1 For unlike many other white grapes that rely more on winemaking to produce character, Riesling takes on differing forms from two things: the place of its planting and its time spent in the bottle.

It has terroir in its heart (even though I am not aware of a German equivalent of that famous French term). As Robinson goes on to say in an article on her website:

Whereas Chardonnay in most cases presents the winemaker with an almost blank canvas on which to paint the traces of his techniques and processes, Riesling has its own very distinctive character which varies immensely and excitingly according to exactly where it is grown. Riesling responds rather badly to winemaking tricks. It is happiest when it is just fermented as simply as possible and the pure fermented juice bottled with minimal resort to oak, malolactic fermentation, lees stirring and so on.2

Another wine author notes that “more than almost any other variety, Riesling takes on the characteristics of the locality where it is grown, and brings them out in its wines”. That author continues that these wines “have a fine fruitiness on the nose, with an aroma of apples, peaches, grapefruit, and other citrus fruits, or in the case of top ‘Prädikat’ wines, of honey and exotic fruits. On the palate Rieslings have a lively acidity and good body (although usually low alcohol levels between 8 and 11%) … and their flavour is almost always intense.”3

Then there is its ability to age. With that maturity comes more complexity and character (something we all aspire to as we gather the years). Due to Riesling’s high natural acidity, the finest Rieslings age very well in the bottle—this is when those interesting petrol aromas (goût de pétrole) develop alongside complex flavours of honey and dried fruit. A fine Riesling can age as well if not better than a fine Bordeaux.

This move to Riesling is not new. It is a circle, returning to a time when Riesling ruled among white wines. Why that was so, why it fell from grace and why it is now rising again is a fascinating tale that is timely, as I write this article on March 13—International Riesling Day—and as we enter another spring in the vineyards.

The parentage of Riesling is believed to be from Traminer and Gouais Blanc or Weißer Heunisch (an ancient variety no longer much grown) mixed with some wild vinifera varieties. The first documented reference to Riesling is March 13, 1435, when the storage inventory of Count John IV of Katzenelnbogen in Rüsselsheim (a small principality on the Rhine, close to today’s Rheingau) lists “22 shillings for Riesling vine cuttings for the vineyard”.4 In 1464, the St. Jacob Hospice in Trier purchased 1,200 “Ruesseling” vines. There are other undocumented references dating back a century or so earlier in Wachau in Austria in 1232, Westhofen in Rheinhessen in 1402 and Alsace in 1477. An undocumented tale of Riesling from the 14th century tells of Cistercian monks at Eberbach disappointed in their light Rhein- gau reds compared to the fuller reds of the French. Their instruction to their growers to remove all plantings other than the whites ensured the spread of the Riesling vine.

While the origins of its name are not clear (although theories abound), it was certainly established by the mid-1500s, as the famous botanist, Hieronymus Bock, uses it then in his book on herbs. His 1577 edition states that “Riesling was growing in the Mosel, the Rhein, and the environs of Worms”, areas where great Rieslings are produced to this day. By the 17th century, “Ruessling”, according to a journal published in 1703, was planted throughout the Palatinate (a region in southwestern Germany).5 The heart of German winemaking remains in this area (so much so that it is the only German state to have its own Cabinet minister for winegrowing!).6

By the late 19th century, Riesling was the dominant variety in the Rheingau and was significant in the rest of Germany. It had fans at home and abroad, especially in England. It is likely due to the throne being taken by German George I of the House of Hanover in the 18th century (and later Queen Victoria and her German consort, Prince Albert) that Riesling was very popular in England, where it was known as “Hock” (from “Hochheim”, a town on the Main river in the Rheingau wine region).

Before technology in wineries could stabilize them, the low temperatures in winter of the northern German regions would halt fermentation and leave the resulting wines with natural sugars and low alcohol content. This became a hallmark of German Riesling. As a result, historically the sugar levels at time of harvest are an important consideration in the wine’s production, with “Prädikat” levels measuring the sweetness of the wine, although equally important are the acidity levels so that the wine will be balanced. Thus, the wines that are of marked quality depend on this labelling, Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (“QmP”)—quality wine with special qualities. For those who are good at memorizing, QmP wines have subdivisions based on lateness of picking, from regular harvest Kabinett, through late harvest Spätslese, Auslese and botrytis-affected Beernauslese to Eiswein and the ultimate, Trockenbeerenauslese or TBA, which is a rare wine from hand-sorted botrytis-affected grapes that few of us could ever afford. Botrytis cineraria or “noble rot” is a nectrotrophic fungus that infects grapes causing them to shrivel and lose water so that their flavours become more intense. The Latin name means “grapes like ashes” from the colour of the bunches, and another term often used for it is grey mould.

These famous dessert Rieslings are by legend accredited to one Schloss Johannisberg in the Rheingau who “accidentally” created the first Spätlese in 1775. Supposedly, the messenger bringing the official order to start pick- ing was robbed on the way. By the time he arrived, the grapes were infected with botrytis and were given to the peasants, who brewed their own wonderful wines, and the rest is history. Those luscious Rieslings of Europe still compete with the rich Riesling icewines of Canada. The ability of Riesling grapes to develop high sugar levels while maintaining acidity is why they age so well.

So how did Riesling fall from favour? My own theory involves several factors.

First, the ever-efficient Germans developed new white varieties that were easier to grow and produced larger crops, such as Silvaner, Kerner and the very mundane but dependable Müllar-Thurgau (or Rivaner). The resultant wines were cheaper to produce, but also tasted cheaper (sweet and flabby, although Silvaner and Kerner cropped low and handled carefully can produce decent wines). German growers, spurred by these new trends in science, began ripping out Riesling and planting these upstarts. By 1930, only fifty-seven per cent of the vines planted in the Rheingau were Riesling.

A second factor was the marketing success of the infamous Blue Nun, one of the first in a line of wine disasters hiding behind cute labels (think “Yellow Tail” as the epitome of this movement of marketing over quality). Discriminating consumers forgot, as one writer puts it, that “despite the image that Blue Nun worked so hard to create in the 1970s, Riesling is not all low-quality, sickeningly sweet plonk that will strip the chrome off a bumper”.7 In fact, like its infamous and risquély named partner, “Liebfraumilch” (Loving Wife’s Milk), Blue Nun had very little Riesling in its blend. But many of us were just learning to drink wine, and in those days, sweet and cheap was the gateway we entered on our journey.

An additional irritant was the Austrian “anti-freeze” scandal of the 1980s when certain wineries were “busted” for illegally adulterating their wines using diethylene glycol (a primary ingredient in some brands of anti-freeze) to make them appear sweeter and more full-bodied. As a result, the reputation of Riesling took a further slide.

As consumers’ palates gained in sophistication, they moved to dry fullbodied whites such as Chardonnay and then to other dry French and Italian wines. The trend moved next to New World wines, also usually dry, from California, Australia, New Zealand and South America. With its delicate, often off-dry whites, Germany was forgotten or dismissed based on recollections of those cheap wines with which it had flooded the market earlier. As Jancis Robinson says:

This is such a shame since the quality of Riesling has never been higher. German Riesling has been transformed from the sugarwater of the 1970s and 1980s to being a wonderfully appetising wine at all levels of sweet- ness, including, crucially, bone dry. In fact 60% of all German Riesling is now either trocken or halbtrocken (dry or half dry) and is just as suitable as, some would say more suitable than, a fine white burgundy with food.8

Fortunately, the Germans saw the error in their ways and have again, as they did centuries ago, pulled much of the lesser vines and replanted Riesling. They have also moved to increase quality to historic levels and beyond with the aid of modern wine technology. They recognize Riesling as their treasured grape, just as the Burgundians have embraced their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the Tuscans their Sangiovese. They also developed a new classification of drier wines, Grosses Gewächs, of which, as noted by Robinson, there are dry (trocken) and off-dry (halbtrocken) kinds.

Riesling has also been grown historically in Austria, Switzerland and the Alsace. The wines produced in the latter are also deservingly famous, usually dry with steely backbones overlaid with luscious fruit. Some LDB Signature stores carry a limited selection of Alsatian wines, as do the larger private stores.

The first reference to Riesling in Australia was in 1820 when 20 acres of vines, including this variety, were planted near Penrith in New South Wales. Thanks to the 19th-century influx of religious refugees from Silesia—part of Poland today but German then—Australia has more Riesling in the ground than any country other than Germany. For much of its history on that continent, it was a sweet plonk, but that has changed:

Both the Clare Valley north of Adelaide and Eden Valley to the east have established reputations for great dry Riesling, the sort of punchy, confident wine that goes perfectly with the Pacific rim cuisine of which Australians are now so proud. This is Riesling at its most alcoholic, sometimes as much as 12% alcohol, but it has real nerve and, in the Eden Valley, a certain floral quality to it while Clare Valley Riesling is often more lime-scented.9

There is growing production in New Zealand, although it is far behind its signature Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris.

The other main producer these days is North America. Riesling is the signature grape of the Finger Lakes area of New York, where I lived for a few years while in university. Plantings in New York go back to the 19th century. Finger Lakes Rieslings are generally light and delicate in the German style and run the full range from dry to sweet. In those long-ago university days in Ithaca, friends and I periodically cruised the wineries of the area and sampled the Rieslings, of which I remember most those by the Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery at Keuka Lake. It is impossible to get any in British Columbia. Even on a trip to New York City a few years back we were surprised to find none on the wine lists in most restaurants.

Riesling also has a home in Canada’s main wine regions, east and west. We tried some examples during a recent trip to Nova Scotia. In Ontario, on the Niagara Peninsula, it is produced as table wine and icewine. Niagara Rieslings tend to be vinted dry or slightly off-dry. Niagara’s summer heat makes for higher sugars (thus alcohol) and brighter, fuller flavours. Again, they are very hard to come by in British Columbia. I spoke with the owner of a large private wine store about the reason for this. He blames the provincial liquor monopolies. The markups both in Ontario and then again in British Columbia mean the price is prohibitive, especially as these days you can order it online directly from the Ontario winery to your home at a fraction of that cost. The difficulty is knowing what to order. Websites such as WineAlign, Vivino or Natalie MacLean are great for the necessary research if you want to take the plunge.

Riesling production is currently on the rise in the State of Washington. The styles again run from dry to sweet, with light fruitiness balanced with crisp acidity and minerals. The largest and most famous producer is Chateau Ste. Michelle. It has in recent years moved more to a German-style production method, partnering with well-known German vintner Dr. Ernest Loosen to create specialty wines such as the Eroica Riesling. With annual productions of over 600,000 cases, it is the worldwide leader in volume production of Riesling wines. Its success has caused significant increases in Riesling plantings in Oregon (where it is close behind Chardonnay) and California.

In British Columbia, Riesling has been produced for a few decades. It was one of several German varieties tested here when growers began experiments in the late 1980s with European varietals to replace the hybrids torn out after the Free Trade Agreement, and it has found its niche first in the icewine arena and more recently as a table wine. Producers, such as Gehringer Brother’s Estate Winery in Oliver, Wild Goose Vineyards in Okanagan Falls, Lang Vineyards in Naramata, Sperling Vineyards in Kelowna and Gray Monk Estate Winery in Lake Country, have made it a focus for many years, and have been followed by several wineries in Penticton, Kelowna and Lake Country, some of which I review. One notable example, whose splendid entry-level wine I have lauded in previous columns, is Tantalus Vineyards in east Kelowna (available from BC VQA stores, private wine stores and the winery at about $28). It is also finding a footing in the Thompson Valley and at Fort Berens Estate Winery in Lillooet.

Here is a cross-section of examples. Given it is hard to buy better Riesling from outside British Columbia and there are good local examples, the selection is locally weighted. However, I have added some available wines from other Old World and New World locations.

Gehringer Brothers Private Reserve Dry Riesling 2021

BC VQA Okanagan Valley #347492 $15.99

From a pioneer in B.C. Riesling, this is from hand-picked grapes and has an alcohol content of 12.9 per cent. The flinty nose has lemon-lime, green apple and some white flowers, and its dry but racy palate has more lemonlime citrus, white grapefruit, melon and peach flavours with mineral notes and a long finish. This means it will pair well with many foods from white fish to lighter grilled chicken or turkey dishes, a cheese plate, quiche or a cheese tart, or a hearty legume or similar salad.

Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Riesling 2019

BC VQA Okanagan Valley #182220 $19.99

I do not generally add wines from the huge conglomerates to this column, especially from one that makes its money from cheap blended plonk. But this grand reserve is worth the exception. A larger wine at thirteen per cent alcohol, it was pressed and cold fermented on selected yeasts after an extended skin contact. Deep gold and highly aromatic, it shows lemon-lime, lanolin, wet stone and a bit of honeysuckle on the nose, and on the slightly off-dry palate peach, apricot, pear and more lanolin with some tropical notes and honey on the lingering crisp finish. Again, rich seafood like halibut or tuna will go well with it, as would roast turkey or Indian fare. Other ideas are a spicy chicken stir-fry, sharp cheeses or pork chops.

Four Shadows Classic Riesling 2021

BC VQA Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley $24.00 (approx.)

This wine is exclusively from estate-grown grapes at this small Upper Bench Penticton winery. It won a platinum medal at the 2022 Wine Access Awards. At 13.6 per cent alcohol, it is an aromatic bomb that delivers on the nose and palate. The winemaker told me that the hot year almost overripened the grapes, that hot weather being confirmed on the back label notes as well. However, the result is rich (almost unctuous) and elegant. The winemaker also told me that the 2022 will be more like ten per cent, so this is a unique vintage to enjoy. It has perfumed aromas of tree blossom, white grapefruit, pear, peach, lemon and lime zest with a bit of wet stone minerality. On the palate it is off-dry but well balanced with more lime, peach and tropical fruit (green pineapple and papaya). The honeyed finish is offset by good cutting acidity. Food options are similar as for the Jackson Triggs. Given its richness, I suggest staying away from spicy Asian foods. It is available at Save-On-Foods and other private stores or from the winery online or in person.

HARPER’S TRAIL THADD SPRINGS VINEYARD RIESLING 2021

BC VQA Thompson Valley #584489 $25.00 (approx.)

This is from one of the established Kamloops wineries that has made its reputation on Riesling and Pinot Noir. (The winery is for sale if you want to try your hand at wine farming.) With a production of 579 cases, the grapes are from a section of the vineyard called the Silver Mane Block. The alcohol is modest at 11.1 per cent. It has grapefruit pith, Meyer lemon, key lime, green peach and wet stone aromas, leading to a fruity but mineral-laced palate with lemon curd and apple. The finish is long with more mineral notes and a splash of honey, making this an extremely versatile food wine that will go especially well with Indian or East Asian food where it will handle the heat. Again, it is available at Save-On-Foods, plus Everything Wine and other private stores or from the winery online or in person.

Peter Lehman Wigan Riesling 2015

Eden Valley, Barossa, South Australia #153421 $33.00 (approx.)

From another large producer, this Australian wine has the interest of maturity added to the mix, as it was deliberately held back to bottle age. It is named for the winemaker. Grapes were harvested early, following a cool and dry growing season. It was the winemaker’s last vintage before retirement and has been hailed as classic: one of the greatest, if not the greatest, Wigan Riesling made. So look for it. The grapes were picked early, as noted above, and fermented cold in stainless steel for two weeks before clarification. Bottling took place immediately, then the wine was cellared at the winery for five years prior to release. It hits the nose with lime with toasty characteristics, alongside honey and a bit of lanolin. At eleven per cent alcohol, the palate is clean and cutting with petroleum, lemon rind, green apple and wet stone, and it has a crisp, dry finish, with a few honeyed notes. It will do well with Vietnamese, Thai or other Oriental cuisine—or, for a different take, a plate of cheeses, or steamed halibut or pink salmon or prawns with drawn butter. It is found in private liquor stores including JAK’s.

Weingut Tony Jost Bacharacher Riesling Trocken 2019

QbA Kabinett feinherb, Mittelrhein, Germany #188362 $40.00 (approx.)

The term feinherb on a label of German Riesling is a recent development. The term is defined neither by the German Wine Law nor by any EU regulation or directive. It was only in 2003 that the German Federal Administrative Court clarified that a wine may be labelled as feinherb. The best way to describe such wines is probably the same as halbtrocken, with sometimes a higher level of sweetness—but not always. Generally they are from very ripe grapes fermented on wild yeasts that will stop working before full dryness is achieved. This leaves a residual sugar level. This version has twelve per cent alcohol. The nose displays sharp lemon-lime, green apple and green mango, followed by green peach and lemon curd on the palate with hints of tropical fruit and a clean medium-long and balanced off-dry finish. Food pairings similar to those for the Four Shadows will work well. Again, it is found only in private stores including JAK’s and perhaps on some restaurant lists.

Moselland Ars Vitis Riesling 2021

QbA Mosel, Germany #914762 $19.99

This wine is lean and racy with only 8.8 per cent alcohol and is good value for the money. It has aromas of lime, white grapefruit, a bit of white flowers and some light spice, and has flavours on its light, slightly effervescent palate of peach, apple, apricot and persimmons with a clean, long and offdry finish. Its light profile and hint of sweetness, offset with generous acidity, make it an ideal match for salads and Asian dishes. We had it with a spicy vegetarian curry and it tamed the heat well. Vietnamese dishes including pho, will also work well, as will Chinese fare.

Endnotes

1.Hugh Johnson & James Halliday, The Vintner’s Art: How Great Wines Are Made (New York: Simon & Shuster, 1992) at 86.

2.Jancis Robinson, “Great White” (25 July 2012), VINES Magazine, online: <https://vinesmag.wordpress.com/tag/jancis-robinson/>.

3.André Dominé, Wine (H.F. Ullmann, 2011) at 452.

4.“Riesling”, Wikipedia, online: <en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/Riesling#Red_Riesling>.

5.Online: <en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hieronymus_ Bock>.

6.The current one being Daniela Schmitt: “Daniela Schmitt”, Wikipedia, online: <en.wikipedia.org/wiki /Daniela_Schmitt>.

7.“Not All Riesling is Sweet (But They Sure Make It Confusing)”, Supple Wine, online: <www.supple wine.com/articles/wine/not-all-riesling-is-sweetw62/>.

8.Jancis Robinson, “Riesling – Will It Ever Catch On?” (23 March 2023), online: <www.jancisrobinson.com /articles/riesling-will-it-ever-catch-on>.

9.Robinson, “Great White”, supra note 2.

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