Adventure She Empower Educate Entertain
Running New Zealand’s Te Araroa Mindful Kayaking in Scotland Scooting New Zealand Running Across Iran
Kilimanjaro
Also including Hiking Hong Kong – Part 2
Conquering Body Issues Peru’s Nazca Lines Triathlon at 70 & lots more
Issue 9, March 2020 www.adventureshe.com
Price £5.00 for 1 issue or 4 issues for £15
1
Adventure She magazine,ventureshe.com
From The Editor This is the 9th issue of Adventure She magazine and comes at a time unprecedented in our history, with borders closed and many towns and cities in lockdown. For a while at least, physical exploration is on hold for millions. But, whatever our circumstances, we still have an amazing asset, namely our mind and by extension, the attitude we choose to take at this time of crisis.
board games (even if over the internet), and to take that long bath. The stories in this issue of Adventure She have been carefully selected as stories which I very much hope will help you at this time. They are stories that focus on stepping beyond our comfort zone, for that is what we all need to do right now and for the foreseeable future.
The word ‘choose’ might be controversial, after all, people don’t choose to have depression, or anxiety, or other illnesses which impact the way their brain operates. But we can choose to be grateful for what we do currently have. For whilst we are breathing, there is hope.
This issue starts off with a very powerful story from Iona Nelson. A story that demonstrates the beauty of life – seeing a white tailed eagle whilst sea kayaking, and the harshness of life – having to paddle through tough conditions, that was way out of her comfort zone, in order to make it to safety. The beauty was pure enjoyment. But what she really remembers is how dealing with the tough seas made her grow as a person.
So, let’s focus on the good things in our life, whether it’s family, friends, even the fact we have a roof over our head. For those in dire need of something to do, we can still do stuff, even from our own home.
Developing our understanding of other cultures also helps us grow. In this month’s Big Interview, Jessica Michael interviews Kristina Paltén who really stepped outside of her comfort zone when running across the whole of Iran.
We can research our next adventures. We can do language lessons whether it’s over the internet or from some almost forgotten phrase book that’s currently catching dust.
So how does developing an incurable condition impact upon one’s comfort zone? That’s a question Anne-Fleur van Diem has faced. For how do you adventure when you’ve been struck down by rheumatoid arthritis? Here Anne writes about what she learned about her capabilities, physical and mental, whilst travelling New Zealand’s South Island by push scooter!
We can catch up by phone or internet video chat, with all our friends we haven’t called for a while. We can work on our core with yoga and pilates moves.
For some of us, our comfort zone in time of crisis involves food. I know, for I’ve been there, in a bad way too. Of course, eating disorders and body issues can be aligned. Katherine Harrison is one person who’s endured a lifetime of body issues. You guessed it, stepping out of her comfort zone with ultra-running, is what’s helped her.
We can do aerobics to our favourite music, like some of us undoubtedly did in the 1980’s. For anyone who’s been burning the candle at both ends, now is also an opportunity to reset and rejuvenate. At least, that’s how I’m trying to think of it. There’s no longer a need to rush around to catch an exhibition, a film festival, or a talk. Now there is time to breath, to sit back, to read, to play
5
Adventure She magazine,ventureshe.com
One very special ultra-runner is Lucy Clark. She recently set a new fastest known time for a woman, on New Zealand’s Te Araroa Trial. Lucy’s shared her highs and lows with us, lows which took her way beyond her comfort zone. For that’s the thing in life, others might look totally ‘with it,’ but they too might be struggling. There also a Q&A with her.
Charlie Francis is a volunteer Coastguard. She discusses the role of the Coastguard and what it’s like to go on a rescue mission. Some might of course say, ‘ah if only I were younger, I’d do that, but we didn’t have the opportunity in my day.’ That’s definitely not Mary Tuely’s attitude. Age 70 and post cancer, plus with a new hip, she’s one of the most inspiring women in this issue, doing a triathlon at 70.
Way back in 1998 I too stepped out of my comfort zone. I’d never done an event longer than 6kms before, but on moving to Hong Kong, what did I do, but sign up for a 100kms charity hike. In the last issue I wrote about the decision making process of choosing to do the hike and training for the event. This time around, it’s the hike itself. Would the 4 person team of which I was a part, succeed? Or, would some need to drop out due to illness? That’s right, whilst pushing our comfort zone can be good, sometimes for health reasons the best response is to stop. It all depends on the person and the circumstances. Health first as they say.
On top of those stories, there’s the regular What A Woman feature, book reviews and an UNESCO World Heritage Site story. That story is particularly interesting, for it also looks at the irreversible damage we humans can do to ancient structures and features. Researching it was certainly an eye opener. Back to Coronavirus. The reality is none of us know what lies ahead of us. There’s nothing we can do, but to follow new rules, regulations and advice. As a group, let’s be mindful of others out there, let’s limit our movements for now, let’s help prevent the spread by not travelling to other parts, parts that might currently be Coronavirus free.
One person who never seems to stop and who has boundless energy is Angharad Hodgson. Moving from Wales to Dubai. Going from a tiny village and a very small pool based triathlon, to doing an IRONMAN, she’s definitely expanded her comfort zone.
Yes, as an adventurous group of people that will undoubtedly be hard for many of us. But it’s a sacrifice we need to do, for the wider good. After all, over the centuries our ancestors suffered and sacrificed much, some even sacrificed their life. Surely, for those of us who live in the towns and the cities, the least we can do, is for now, to sacrifice our trips to far flung wilder regions.
For some people like Sal Bolton’s sister Helen, their choices are more restricted. In Helen’s case, it’s because of Chronic Fatigue Syndrome or M.E. Helen and other people like her, people who suffer and have their capabilities restricted through no fault of their own, play a very important role for the rest of us. Sal Bolton discusses this relationship as she strove beyond her usual comfort zone, to a place of pain and exhaustion, as she took on Africa’s highest peak, Kilimanjaro.
I wish you health, peace and calm in these turbulent times. Remember, if Adventure She can help you, let me know. Also if you’re bored, pitch us an article, it could be anything from a photo essay (there’s a short example of this over the page) of your dog walks, to hiking in Chile ,horse riding in China, cycling in Colorado, or even staying sane during Coronavirus.
There really is so much in this issue about extending one’s comfort zone, so that we can achieve so much more in our life. But and this is a big but, in many activities be it learning a language, playing a musical instrument, or developing outdoor skills, it’s also important to take a step by step approach. To do it, yes, but to do it sensibly.
Jane 5
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Mindful Kayaking in Scotland By Iona Nelson
8
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
What do you do when tough times hit? That is a question every one of us is currently facing. But, what do you do when you’re outside of your comfort zone and panicking could mean death? Not just for you, but potentially those around you? In this article Iona Nelson explores the highs and lows of sea kayaking. The idyllic moments with wildlife and the frightening moments when you are totally outside your comfort zone. How did Iona deal with those tough times? Did she crumble, or, did she learn from them?
It was day 3 of my first group sea kayaking trip. We’d been riding the swells channelled down Scotland’s Firth of Lorne. To give ourselves a short break before returning to the mainland, we deviated and paddled towards a small sheltered area on the SouthEast side of Insh Island.
Wildlife watching As we paddled towards those calmer waters, I saw a huge bird flying low, not far off the bows (front) of our kayaks. Its wingspan was massive, and it bore a white breast and yellow beak. Then it dawned on me, this was a White-Tailed Sea Eagle.
My dad and I had gone out paddling earlier in the year specifically to see these enormous, beautiful birds of prey, but that time, had no such luck. "Dad...I think it's - "I’m cut off: "DARLING IT’S A SEA EAGLE! WOOHOO!" my Dad exclaimed back at me. We watched the bird swoop down, before flying back up high and into the distance behind the island, leaving my Dad and I in ecstatic awe.
Kayak mindfulness Moments like this are why I adore my kayaking hobby. Kayaks are peaceful boats, compared to most others out there. Wildlife are not scared by kayaks - actually, so many animals are fascinated instead.
9
The silence of a kayak also makes it a very mindful hobby. If I'm paddling in mirrored, calm waters, I often lie back a little, close my eyes and breathe in deeply, listening to the trickling noises as my boat pushes gently through the water.
Adventure kayaking On the other side of it, kayaking can also be a great adventure sport. Tackling awesome waves and weather conditions, it can be a tough, but also fun and adrenaline filled. The best part about kayaking is you can make it the sport you want.
Kayak Tuition I've been kayaking for around 10 years now but have only had tuition in the last few years. Don't be
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Photo courtesy of jggrz from Pixabay
10
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
fooled into thinking I'm a pro though! What it really means is that over time, I’ve unfortunately developed countless bad habits, like not twisting my upper body enough, panicking when I don't need to, not putting the paddle forward enough, not bringing it far back enough, bringing it too far back...AHH. It frustrates me a lot and I am forever trying to undo these habits. I constantly question if I'm good enough when I'm out on the water. But when push comes to shove, I've been so surprised at what I can handle.
www.adventureshe.com
Scary moments There have been one or two situations where I have been in some gnarly waves (at least in my opinion!), and once you're out there and challenging yourself, there's no escape. You can’t just give up and pack it in. You must find a way to do it, to paddle through to the end. It's the only way you make it out. As we neared the end of day one, of that three day trip when we saw the white tailed sea eagle, tough weather hit us. We were paddling around the West side of Shuna Island. To one side of us, there were strong, side-
11
hitting waves. On the other side, cliffs. I felt incredibly
“…once you're out there and challenging yourself, there's no escape. You can’t just give up and pack it in. You must find a way to do it, to paddle through to the end. It's the only way you make it out”
uncomfortable. But if there's anything I've learned from past paddles and from my mountaineering experience, it's that you don't grow
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
The Big Interview Kristina PaltĂŠn Running Solo Across Iran by Jessica Michael
16
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
Last year, we received an email from Jessica Michaels stating: “Last year, I interviewed the Swedish runner Kristina Paltén, the first woman to run solo across Iran. Her 1,144-mile journey traversed not only a country we've been taught to see as an enemy, but her own fears, biases, and preconceived limitations. Ms. Paltén completed a physically and emotionally arduous feat, while engaging with a kind and vital people. Her story is remarkable, humanizing, and unique. With the threat of increasing hostility with Iran, it's become even more relevant today. I believe this story would be a wonderful fit for your magazine. Please let me know if you are interested, and I will send it as well as the photo portfolio for your review.” We couldn’t agree more. Kristina Paltén’s experience is worthy of sharing as far and wide as possible. It’s taken us a while, but here finally, is that interview.
www.adventureshe.com
“I’m the most scared person in the world. I like fear because it’s so complex. When I challenge myself to go outside my comfort zone, I’m afraid. Then fear shows me I’m on the right path. Then fear is a sign.” This is how Kristina Paltén broke down how she ran solo across Iran for 58 days. She isn’t talking about physical hardship, the kind that gripped her in 50° C heat as she loped along the glitter of the Caspian Sea, or the hunger that closed in between gaps in the Alborz Mountains. Paltén is speaking about something far darker. “I was afraid of being raped, of being beaten. I was afraid of being thrown in prison, or that people would be angry and throw rocks at me. I thought terrorists were everywhere in the Muslim world, that they were dangerous to me.” It’s a list of formidable boogeymen, a cacophony of demons that Paltén attempted to pin down in black ink. Before the 2015 journey that made her the first woman to run solo across Iran, she wrote a list. “I sat down and listed all of my fears because it felt like a giant mountain. When I wrote it out, it was 22 separate things I was afraid of. Only 22!” She rated each from 1 to 100 and then attempted to reason with herself over each one. “My plan was to jog with a baby stroller and sleep in a tent, but I felt very vulnerable that way. What if someone followed me?” “So I realized, ‘Ok, don’t sleep in a tent! Sleep in a hotel if it’s available. Or ask people if you can sleep in their yard. And if you do sleep in a tent, don’t sleep in the orange tent, it’s too noticeable. Sleep in the green one.’” Paltén has run from Istanbul, Turkey, to Tenala, Finland, then paddled 306 miles from Tenala to Stockholm.
17
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Food, diets, ultrarunning and the mind by Katherine Harrison
Ultra-runners, you know the type, skinny as, who leap and bound over the roughest of terrain. Or is that true? Actually, yes there are ultra-runners like that, but for many more, ultra-running is about being out there in nature regardless of their shape or size. In this article harpist (yes, she’s a seriously good musician) Katherine Harrison, shares how she got into ultra-running and how ultra-running helped her come to terms with her own body issues. 45
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
I never thought in a million years I would become a rock climber, a motorbike racer or an ultramarathon runner. I had severe asthma, and as my dad politely described me, I was built for comfort, not for speed. Actually, I spent most of my childhood sat behind either a piano or a harp and most memories of my teenage years involve music. There’s memories of the battles with my mum over not doing enough practice and there’s memories of all those long train trips to London for yet another music lesson at the junior department of one of the prestigious music college. There I’d be alternately shouted at, or encouraged. Whilst I loved music, what I really wanted though, was to hang out with my friends.
www.adventureshe.com
really wanted to be good at, but which I couldn’t get the hang of. I put myself under a stupid amount of pressure and attempted my first trad lead climb before I was ready. I should have backed off, but I was climbing with three guys and I didn’t want to wimp out. I was used to being good at everything – high achiever at school, good at music etc. I had an awful accident, making a dreadful mess of myself.
only wanted to climb what I felt comfortable climbing.
After I recovered, I climbed again, but it wasn’t the same. By now I knew what I really enjoyed was the walk in, being out in the hills and then going to the pub afterwards. I didn’t want to be scared part way up a rock face. I
To this day I have no idea what appealed about a triathlon, but I decided that’s what I would do. I figured that if, or more likely when, cancer came knocking for me (statistically speaking, is there after all a really high
I didn’t realise it at the time, but my love of music and all those hours spent practicing kept me away from the drug and alcohol problems my friends developed. It turns out that my own addictions and desires to escape were to take a rather different form, the form of climbing, motor bike racing and ultrarunning. At university I joined the climbing club. Climbing was probably the first thing I
46
After many years living in the flat lands of Essex (East of the UK), both my aunty and my uncle were diagnosed with lymphoma within a couple of years of each other (not hereditary, they’re married to each other, just really bad luck). There diagnosis pushed me to do some fundraising for a cancer charity.
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Setting the Female Fastest Known Time on New Zealand’s Te Araroa Trail By Lucy Clark When a friend from donkeys years ago gets in touch and tells you he knows a woman who’s running the length of New Zealand’s Te Araroa trail, what do you do? When you’re an editor of an adventure magazine, the answer is you start following them on social media. The Adventure She team was so impressed with Luc Clark’s effort, we had to approach her and ask if she’d write an article . She didn’t just say yes. She wrote it promptly and brilliantly, at least we think so. Subsequently, she answered two lots of questions we sent her, as well, we think she’s amazing and we wanted to know more. So sit back and relax, we think you’re in for a treat. 53
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
The sky was dark, and the waves crashed over cragged rocks, spraying salty water everywhere. I was clinging to the side of a rock, waiting for a break in the waves. “Lucy! No! Come back.” I turned to see Tommy, fear etched across his face. I retreated quickly and immediately started bawling my eyes out… again. It’s day one. I’m three kilometres into my 3,000km run across New Zealand and I have already cried six times. Geez, this is going to be a long trip.
Yes. You read that right. A 3,000km run across New Zealand. My route followed the Te Araroa, which means “the long pathway”, and runs from Cape Reinga at the tip of New Zealand’s North Island down to Bluff at the bottom of the South Island. It takes in some of New Zealand’s most beautiful but rugged terrain, including the Tararua Ranges, Queen Charlotte Track and the Southern Alps. Some of the trail is manicured but a lot is unformed and way off the beaten track. And if it doesn’t already sound hard enough, the total elevation is equivalent to summitting Everest nine times. Yikes.
www.adventureshe.com
The TA is a popular throughhike. However, there are a handful of crazy folk, like myself, who run it instead. My plan was to set the female Fastest Known Time (FKT) by completing it in under 70 days. That averages to a marathon. Every. Single. Day. But due to the varying terrain, my schedule had me running between 20 to 70kms a day. To put into perspective how big, hairy and audacious this goal was, the furthest I had ever run was 56km. I did this once, in a race, and I didn’t have to back it up the next day. Double yikes. But I wouldn’t be doing it on my own. My husband, Tommy, would be my support crew. He would follow me the entire way in a small campervan which was our home for three months. Most nights I would spend in the van and there would be times when the trail was too remote and I would have to stay in backcountry huts.
So back to day one. How did I fare? I would love to say it was triumphant, but it was the opposite. I was a ball of nervous energy who burst into tears an embarrassing number of times. The problem was I was thinking about the entire
54
3,000kms; the enormity of it overwhelmed me. Anxiety, something from which I had suffered since I was 18, started to rear its ugly head. I was scared of failing. But standing on the start line, there was no other option but to get on with it. After some gentle encouragement from Tommy, I was on my way. Like any good story, there were a few more mishaps on day one. First, Tommy wasn’t able to access our first meet point at the 40km mark. I arrived at the empty campsite and, just as my stress levels skyrocketed, I got one bar of reception and a text message popped up. Keep running along the beach. I will meet you in 10km or so. It’s ok. I kept running along the beach, towards the haze of nothingness. After what felt like a lifetime, I saw a lone figure running towards me with his arms open. Tommy had driven to the end point, hitched a lift 10kms up the beach and then run another 10kms to meet me. After feeding me a croissant, we regrouped to complete the final 20kms. There was now a massive headwind, so I cowered behind Tommy the whole way.
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Books Reviews This time around, we’ve reviewed two very different adventure books, both of which we heard about from the adventure grapevine. So please, if you’ve written a book, or know someone who has, let us know. You never know, we might include a review of that book in one of our future issues.
Two Wheels to Chamonix By Ali Mahoney Reviewed by Jane Harries Now this is a book with a difference. As Ali told me, it’s “a quick read” and she was right. It’s not going to test your intellectual capability at all. But what it will do, is far more important than that, in these uncertain and troubling times. For hidden away in this book, are absolute gems. What are these gems? Strategies for coping, that’s what. For riding hundreds of miles on a bike is, for most of us including Ali, hard work. After all, it involves a lot of effort, and when time is constrained, that effort needs to be sustained for hour after hour. The choice is to grind away, or to give up, for there is no leeway when you have a hard deadline. . So if you’re interested in going cycle touring and learning how Ali did this, or, if you are interested in learning coping strategies such as visualisation, selftalk, and how to avoid catastrophising mode, or if you simply want a quick light hearted read in these difficult times, hopefully you’ll think this book deliver. 72
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
The Hound From Hanoi
give you a kind of friendship and loyalty that humans simply cannot. The Hound of Hanoi was a joy to read and it made me look forward to my journey to and from work. This book made me realise that in saving a rescue animal, you are not only changing their life for the better but they are also changing yours and filling a void that you never knew was there. This book restores your faith in people, if we cannot find it in ourselves be kind to one another, we can always find it in ourselves to be kind to our animals.
By Moire O’Sullivan Reviewed by Bethany Hughes I wouldn’t normally pick up a book like The Hound of Hanoi and at first, I was sceptical as to whether it would grab my attention at all. However, once I’d made a start on the book during my morning commute to work, it was safe to say that I was hooked. After reading this book, I will think twice before passing up a book about travelling the world, especially if an adorable rescue dog is involved! The narrative voice of Moire is so relatable and easy to read, it’s as if you are hearing the story of Moire, Pete and Tom from a good friend. For someone who has never travelled, it was fascinating to read about the different cultures Moire experienced. I appreciate how Moire doesn't bombard the reader with cultural facts but that she interweaves culture into the story so seamlessly that it doesn’t feel just like a book on travel, but a book on relationships, the struggles of moving away from home and living with animals. Tom reads as a wonderful dog and a brilliant companion. I laughed along with the relatable moments of Tom peeing on the floor or leaving hair everywhere and I was nervous for Moire and Pete as they did everything they could to transport their favourite furry friend from country to country. This book reminds readers that people will do anything for their animals and that animals
73
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
From the Archives Oxfam Hong Kong’s 1998 Trailwalker – Part 2 By Jane Harries
. 74
This is part two of a story, the first part of which appeared in our December 2019 issue. In part one, our editor wrote about how moving to Hong Kong way back in 1998 changed her life, for it was in Hong Kong that she first heard of challenges such as the 100 kms Hong Kong Trailwalker, and it is in Hong Kong she took that leap of faith to seize the moment, and to train up for the event. Here in part 2 of the story, she writes about the event itself. In case you missed part 1, it’s a team event, where all four team members attempt to complete 100 kms over the old Maclehose Trail, in Hong Kong’s New Territories. 100kms, with supposedly over 14,000 feet of climbing, on often rough trains and up some incredibly steep inclines. 100 kms at a time when technical clothing and hydration packs were in their infancy. So yes, you might have a bit of a laugh when you see some of the clothing worn by participants, our editor included. Unfortunately, with Hong Kong suffering turbulent times in November 2019, the event which is a major fundraiser for Oxfam, was cancelled. The Adventure She team very much hope the Coronavirus situation will be settled soon and the 2020 event will be able to go ahead.
to be, for my faithful hiking boots had developed a big fat hole just a couple of weeks earlier. I’d bought replacement boots, but they weren’t properly worn in, as I’d been tapering. So what to wear? New boots, boots with a hole in them, or running shoes?
The day dawns The months of training were finally over, for this wasn’t just another Friday morning in November, this was Trailwalker day. With luck 100 kms lay ahead of me and my teammates, before we’d see our beds again, hopefully sometime in the early hours of Sunday morning.
Rather than risk blisters from new boots, as the weather was perfect and there was no danger of muddy trails, I opted for my runners. After all, at least I’d worn my runners on some long trail runs, whereas the boots were an unknown. (Turned out to be a very wise decision, for those new boots of my caused me a lot of blisters until I eventually gave up on them and donated them to a charity shop. They were simply not right for my feet. Had I attempted to wear them, I doubt I would have made it beyond 30 kms).
It was a beautiful blue sky day with the most perfect temperature. No danger of overheating during the day, no danger of hypothermia at night and no danger of rain. It was weather perfection. What wasn’t perfect was the state of my hiking boots. They say never use something new or different on race day. But if I was to wear hiking boots I had no choice, new it would have
75
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Friday – waiting for the start
anything like this before, and I’d never trained like this before, but I knew I’d given it my all.
All 8 of us, the fast team and the slower team of which I was part, met up at the start at Pak Tam Chung, in the New Territories. With time to spare, we enjoyed ourselves hanging out, catching up and posing for photos. The smiles on our faces clear evidence of the thrill we felt to have made it this far. The sense of anticipation was palpable. After all, none of us knew what lay in store for us, either team wise or individually. Would we all finish? Would any of us finish? At least we’d all made it to the start line.
What silently bothered me was illness. Not of me, but one of my teammates. She'd been ill a few weeks back and of course had of necessity missed a lot of training. On her comeback hike, a long one, she'd struggled, announcing afterwards she was going to withdraw. Then she changed her mind and decided to give it her best. I had to admire her determination and her tenacity. It would be great to have her finish. But the reality was, because she’d be ill and unable to train as necessary, finishing 100km just after illness, would be a very hard task, not just for her, but for anyone. Would she be ok?
I felt good, really good. Yes there was the unknown as to whether I could or could not do it. But there at the start I knew I’d put in the hard work during training. I’d never attempted
76
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
For now though, all thoughts of illness, recovery, and rebuilding vanished from my mind, for we were all there, happy, smiling, together, at the start.
Friday –the start Looking back, was our failure to finish as a team, born from our failure to walk together to the first checkpoint? I’ll never know. It wasn’t something I considered at the time, I was too enraptured with being there in the throng, one of the Trailwalkers of 1998. I was feeling strong, I was with friends, I was basking in the warm, though not hot rays of the sun on this amazing blue sky day. I was in my element. I’d assumed all 4 of us would be walking together, for that’s how we’d trained. But somehow, whether it was the thrill of the atmosphere or what, I’ll never know, we didn’t. Our start time had been in the afternoon. By the time I reached checkpoint one, at Sai Wan, a tiny simple café more reminiscent of what you’d expect to find on a tranquil Caribbean Island than a mere few miles from the skyscrapers of Hong Kong (note, of course it might no longer by tiny), dusk was falling. There I caught up with one of the team who’d ran ahead. We waited a while for the others, then checked in and out as a team, before heading off on the second leg of ten, but this time, as a team.
Friday night It was dark by now. I’d never hiked before in the dark. It was an amazing atmosphere, with all those tiny reflective logos on the back of running shoes, and all those headtorches and hand torches, glistening away. Really surreal. Is that the word? All seemed good with the world. As for the sunset, it had been magnificent.
77
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Triathlon Training Dubai Style By Angharad Hodgson
92
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Have you ever contemplated moving overseas for work? That’s exactly what Angharad Hodgson did when she swapped the rain, hills and cold of wonderful Wales for Dubai’s sun, desert and heat. What would triathlon lover Angharad, encounter in Dubai? “Dubai?! Isn’t it really dangerous for women there?!”. … Such was the attitude of a huge amount of people when my husband and I decided to move to the Middle East in 2017. Despite the naysayers, the move to the Middle East has proved to be one of the best moves we have ever made. I work in a school with incredibly hardworking and culturally aware kids, I (now) live in a beautiful apartment overlooking a golf course, and I have the hub of Dubai airport on my doorstep. However, what has really surprised me has been the regularity with which I can enjoy the outdoors. To put my move to the sprawling, glitz and glam city in the desert into context, I am a Welsh girl from a very, very tiny hamlet in the
Pembrokeshire National Park. And by hamlet, I mean I could just about see my neighbour’s house (note – singular house) if I craned my neck out of my bedroom window. My father grew up in the Lake District and did everything he could to ensure that my brother and I had the ‘wildest’ upbringing possible in the fast paced nineties. I had no interest in ballet, sewing or Brownies, opting instead for the muddiest, messiest hobbies possible. So I climbed, created mudslides in the garden and generally went on ‘adventures’ with my little brother in the fields and woods near our home. I knew every sheep track, every tumbledown dry stone wall and every stream like the back of my hand. I discovered running in my final year at university. A few years later I ran the Edinburgh Marathon with an ITB injury and decided that running just wasn’t for me. And so began my 93
love/hate relationship with long distance triathlon. At the point at which we moved to the Middle East, I had just completed my first Middle Distance Tri (1.9km swim, 90km bike, 21 km run) and somehow nabbed myself a spot on the GB Age Group Team for the European Championship! And then we moved. How would I, a mud loving triathlete from a tiny hamlet, cope amongst the glitz, glamour and sparkle of Dubai? The answer, I don’t really ‘do’ the whole Dubai scene. Don’t get me wrong, I love the occasional boozy brunch with views of the Burj al Arab; who doesn’t?! But the posing, the beach clubs and the ever Instagram worthy life just isn’t for me. The side of Dubai I see still involves being awake at 3.30 or 4am on a Friday morning, not because I’m returning from some party,
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Kilimanjaro Fatigue and M.E. By Sal Bolton
102
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
There was an extra reason why I put in that effort. I was lucky enough to be able to travel to Tanzania and attempt Kilimanjaro. This was not an option for my twin sister Helen, who could only imagine a world beyond her back garden.
Mount Kilimanjaro is the highest freestanding mountain in the world and the highest point in Africa. Standing at 5,895 metres, the iconic mountain solitary sits on the border of Tanzania, supremely overlooking the vast expanse of the Kenyan Serengeti plains from the north face of the mountain.
Age 19 Helen was hit with daily symptoms of prolonged tiredness, low energy, muscle pains, nausea and headaches. Her concentration too got worse.
Trekkers from all over the world routinely attempt to summit Kilimanjaro. But not all succeed. For Kilimanjaro is also known for inflicting altitude sickness upon many. Would Sal Bolton succeed and if so, what would drive her to make it to the summit.
For at age twenty-four, she was diagnosed with the presently incurable illness Myalgic Encephalomyetltis (M.E) otherwise known as Chronic Fatigue Syndrome. Up until M.E. my sister like myself had led a very active, interesting lifestyle, coloured with many perceived dreams, ambitions and aspirations. Now M.E. had completely derailing her ability to continue living a normal, functioning life.
Kilimanjaro is a hike, not a climb, so it’s attainable without any mountaineering experience or equipment. The key difficulty is in its altitude. But the hike too can be a grind.
Myalgic Encephalomyetltis (M.E) M.E. is a massively misunderstood longterm neurological condition that causes symptoms which affect many body systems, more commonly the nervous and immune systems. Over an estimated 250,000 people in the United Kingdom and around 17 million worldwide are affected by the trappings of M.E and like my sister, have had to endure the humiliation and neglect from ignorant views from society and misunderstood judgement from the medical profession.
I was not going to let that grind defeat me. Six-months of strengthening and conditioning in the gym, local weekend training hikes at home in the UK and a summer walking holiday in the remote wilderness of the Lake District followed. By the time I set out for Tanzania, I was in the best shape of my life and ready as I'd ever be for what I knew would be the most relentless, gruelling physical and mental challenge of my life.
'The attitude of 'everyone gets tired ' needs to change. M.E needs to be recognised as a serious long-term illness' she would lament to me in many frustrated conversations during her short periods of wellness. 'It's how I feel most of the time, not how I look, its moment to moment symptoms and it can be very stressful to
103
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Volunteering with the Coastguard By Charlie Francis 118
HM Coastguard is the national maritime 999 service for search and rescue. When someone’s in trouble, one of the control rooms will coordinate the response, which might include sending coastguard rescue teams, helicopters or lifeboats. It’s a voluntary service made up of men and women of all ages and from all walks of life, making it a diverse and inclusive service and something to be really proud of. Charlotte Francis is by day a Warehouse Manager for ‘Fourth Element’ – A diving company based in Helston, Cornwall. Here she shares about her experience volunteering with the Falmouth Coastguard. You can follow her on Instagram using @charlie_fal12
I've been a Coastguard Rescue Officer with the Falmouth Team for the past two years. I have attended hundreds of shouts since joining. ‘Shouts’ are what we call the incidents we attend. We normally get a text message sent to our mobile phone requesting our attendance. This will outline what the incident is, location, and any other relevant information that we might require. Until we are on scene we normally only have the information provided in the text message, so the journey to the incident often gives you the time to go through different scenarios in your head as to what you will be attending. I work about 20 minutes away from the Falmouth Coastguard Station, so the majority of the time I go straight to the scene of the incidents. Others, who work nearer to the Coastguard Station will make their way and collect the Coastguard Vehicle and then proceed to the scene. I’m really lucky to have an understanding employer. They are really understanding and supportive of my additional role within the Coastguard especially when the phone
119
goes off, I drop everything and go. I have always loved being in or around the water and from a very young age enjoyed sea kayaking, surfing and swimming there is no better place if you are an ocean lover than Cornwall. Especially in the summer! From climbing and diving I have always loved being outdoors and happy in any weather. I joined the Coastguard as it gave me the ability to do something different and help people. A friend sent me over the advent on Facebook about the recruitment campaign and I thought why not let’s give it a go! And I haven’t looked back since. To become a Coastguard Rescue Officer, you have to be over 18, have a good level of fitness, pass a medical and have a full driving licence. Ideally live or work within 30 mins of your local station, be good at communicating and following instructions. When I joined the Coastguard Rescue Service, I had to attend the various weekend training courses. This involved a three-day Foundation Course which covered a wide range of topics, but to name a few:
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Coming Up In Adventure She Magazine During 2020 Remember, please do send us your stories Researching Rubbish In India
Downhill Mountain Biking
Hiking Lewis To Harris
UTMB Week
Running The Everest Marathon
Exploring Indonesia 136
Adventure She magazine, Issue 9, March 2020
www.adventureshe.com
Hiking The Grand Canyon
Exploring Kakadu National Park
Winter Hiking
New Zealand’s Coast To Coast
Kayaking With The Maoris
Exploring Australia’s Kakadu National Microadventures Park
Cycling In South America
Adventures On Horseback 137