MURRAMARANG SOUTH COAST WALK

Pretty Beach

Singing Stones Beach

Dawsons Beach

Snake Bay

PrincesHwy

Maloneys Beach

Pebbly Beach Campground

North Durras

South Durras

North Head Campground

Pebbly Beach

Depot Beach

North Durras Beach

South Durras Beach

Cookies Beach

Mill Beach

Emily Miller Beach

Dark Beach

Myrtle Beach

Richmond Beach

Oaky Beach

Honeysuckle Beach

easy. High tides, however, can change everything, making some parts—notably Durras Lake (see next section), some bits south of Pebbly Beach, and sometimes Myrtle Beach, too—unpleasant, or difficult, or even impossible. It’s really important, therefore, that you download or print a tide chart before setting off.

Despite the NPWS touting the walk as being well signposted, there was virtually no signposting in the walk’s bottom third at the time of its opening (April 2023). The top two-thirds, however, were adequately marked, and it’s likely the bottom section will catch up soon. Nonetheless, be aware that if you do the walk not long after this issue goes to print, signposting may not be completed. As a result, it’s highly recommended that you download to your phone both the NPWS app and the Murramarang walk info (ensure the latter is available offline). While the app is sometimes clunky, its ability to use your phone’s GPS to display exactly where you are in those unsignposted sections is really useful.

It’s also recommended that you contact the NPWS office at Depot Beach Campground to find out about the Durras Lake crossing and conditions in general: (02) 4478 6582; 9AM-4PM.

The crux of the entire Murramarang South Coast Walk is crossing Durras Lake. The lake is what’s known as an ICOLL, an Intermittently Closed and Open Lake and Lagoon. When closed, the crossing is not even the slightest bit difficult; it’s as dry as crossing the sands of the Sahara, I’ve been told. But when open, the waters can be ankle/thigh/chest-deep or more, and there’ll be times (although this is rare) when even at low tide you’ll either be pack floating and swimming or arranging transport. Waiting until low or mid-tide can help, but this is not guaranteed. (One of my crossings of the lake was thwarted at mid-tide). Also, be aware that there can be up to an hour or so’s lag between the coastal tides and the inlet tides.

But here’s an important tip, one gleaned from locals: If the waters seem too deep, head inland to where the entrance broadens. Depending on the tide, you may find 50m in is sufficient, but it gets less deep still if you go 200-300m in, around to a spot where there’s a grassy flat and a few houses. If you can’t make your way across, there’s the option of contacting Bay and Beyond Tours (there’s a section on their website about offering assistance to walkers with the crossing: bayandbeyond.com.au).

The walk doesn’t require much specific equipment, but dry bags will allow more flexibility when it comes to crossing Durras Lake. And if you can waterproof all your gear, you’ll have the option of pack swimming across the entrance, presuming you’re comfortable with it.

There are no permanent creeks along the route, but tank-water options exist in a few locations: Pretty Beach Campground, Depot Beach Campground, and Lakesea Park (near the amenities block). Be aware the amenities block at NRMA Murramarang Resort only has bore water, and there is no water at all at Oaky Beach Campground; you’ll need to carry sufficient water to get you through the night and whatever walking you’re doing the next day.

For supermarket supplies, the nearby large towns of Ulladulla to the north (35km drive from Pretty Beach) and Batemans Bay to the south (16km drive from Maloneys Beach) will have everything you need. Bawley Point, just 7km north of Pretty Beach, has an IGA.

Along the walk itself, all the caravan parks in South Durras have a limited range of supplies. The NRMA Murramarang Resort has a restaurant, bar and café as well. Besides that, there are no shops/restaurants in South Durras (the takeaway pizza joint closed some years ago). North Durras has a café, but it’s a bit away from the track. And Pretty Beach has a café as well, but it has limited hours: 10AM-3PM Friday-Sunday.

Around Australia, there has been a regrettable push to develop luxury, hard-roofed accommodation within our national parks. Such developments compromise our parks’ ecological integrity, their wilderness values, and their ability to offer equal access to all.

But the Murramarang SCW, the newest of NSW’s ‘Great Walks’, shows that there is an alternative model. If people wish to walk it in so-called ‘luxury’, there are accommodation options all along the route in existing villages; effectively privatising sections of the park to create ‘luxury lodges’ is unnecessary. Not only is it a great example for other parks, it also shows that the contentious development of the Light to Light Walk in nearby Beowa NP is not needed, when those who desire hard-roofed accommodation already have the Murramarang SCW as an alternative.