Vertical Life #49

CLIMBING MAGAZINE

SUMMER 2024 • ED49 • AU/NZ

NEW LINES AND FIRST ASCENTS BOLTING IN ARMENIA

THE OLD AND THE NEW A PHOTOGRAPHIC EXPLORATION OF THE ORGAN PIPES

RIDING THE CAMEL. MIKL LAW ON SETTING A 500M TRAD LINE

RRP AU$13.95/NZ$13.95 (INC GST)

A NEW TAKE ON THE TOTE. JACK BRYN PHOTOGRAPHS THE TOTEM POLE FINDING YOUR DREAM BELAYTIONSHIP. WHAT MAKES A PERFECT CLIMBING BUDDY?

PLUS: SUMMITING CHO OYU | GETTING TO KNOW ROSE WELLER | CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE | REVIEWS | SAFETY TIPS | BETA & BREW

AU.YETI.COM / NZ.YETI.COM

THE ICONIC TOTEM POLE IN TASMAN NATIONAL PARK, TASMANIA. READ HOW ADVENTURE FILMMAKER AND PHOTOGRAPHER JACK BRYN GOT THIS SHOT AND MORE ON PAGES 28-31.

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SUMMER 2024

SUMMER 2024-2025 SPRING 2024 VERTICAL LIFE IS PUBLISHED QUARTERLY WINTER/SPRING/SUMMER/AUTUMN/ AUSTRALIAN MADE. AUSTRALIAN PRINTED. AUSTRALIAN OWNED. OWNED. PRINTED. AUSTRALIAN EDITORS

Editor: Wendy Bruere Gear and coffee editor: Sule McCraies wendy@verticallifemag.com

DESIGN

Allan MarineBender Raynard allan@adventureentertainment.com marine@adventureentertainment.com

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Pip Casey Email: Pip@adventureentertainment.com Phone: +61 448 484 566

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Michael Blowers, Ash Brennan, Bryn, Kate Baecher, Dave Barnes, Keith Bell, Wendy Jack Bruere, Wendy Bruere,Ben Daniel Butler, Adrienne Eberhard, Daniel Butler, Cossey, Keith Lockwood, Sule Brendon Flanagan, Mikl Law,McNeil, Sule McCraies, Simon Allie Madden, McCraies, Nathan Elise Marcianti, Pepper, Brooke Nolan, Alessandra Pepper, Mat Young.

Claire Williams.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Louis Bell, Bhim,Michael MichaelBlowers, Blowers,Simon Ash Brennan, Jack Bryn, Keith Carter, Nick Simon Carter, Davidson, Peter Deegan, Paula Hancock, VictorTara Hall, Caitlin Horan, Molly Johnson, Derlatka,Littleford, Patrick Eberhard, Liv Grover-Johnson, Brecon Victoria Kohner-Flanagan, TimVictor Hall, Jonny Hopkins,Sule MiraMcCraies, Jordan, Victoria KohnerMacartney-Snape, Christian McEwen, Flanagan, Mikl Law, Madden, Sule McCraies, Nathan McNeil, AnnaSimon Pearson, Allie Pepper, Matt Christian Nathan McNeil, Lachlan Norris, Raimondo,McEwan, Peter Rowed, Claire Williams.

Alessandra Pepper, Scott Roberts, Nikhilesh Sharma, Dendi Sherpa, Mikel Sherpa, Ryan Sklenica, Claire CREDITS IMAGE AWilliams. still from Inside Out, produced by Christian McEwen, and set to feature in this year’s Climbing Film Tour.

ON THE COVER Ewan Barryonjamming his Insanity way through Ian Elliott Screaming (26) at Holiday in Cambodia, 21, at the Organ Coolum Cave, Queensland.

Pipesby of Molly kunanyi/Mt Wellington, lutrawita/ Shot Johnson while filming Ian. Tasmania. Shot by Michael Blowers.

CREDITS IMAGE The Totem Pole, Tasman National Park. Image by Jack Bryn.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT IMAGE An eagle soars past a climber in Warrumbungles ACKNOWLEDGEMENT IMAGE National Park. Image by Caitlin Horan.

Warrumbungles night sky. Image by Jack Bryn.

PUBLISHER PUBLISHER Toby Ryston-Pratt

Toby Ryston-Pratt Founder & CEO Founder & Entertainment.

CEO Adventure Adventure Entertainment ABN: 79 612 294 569 ABN: 79 612 294 569

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Undertakecan outdoor onlyrisk withofproper Undertake outdoor activity with proper instruction, supervision, equipment andonly training.

The publisher and supervision, equipment and training. publishercare and its servants and agents have taken allThe reasonable its ensure servants agents of have all reasonable care to to theand accuracy thetaken information contained ensure the accuracy of the expertise information contained in this in this publication and of its writers. Any publication and theany expertise of its writers.

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VerticalLifeMag

VerticalLifeMag

SUMMER 2024 9 SPRING 2024

CONTENTS SUMMER 2024. ED49. AU/NZ

32

54

IN FOCUS

38

44

WHY CLIMB?

Mat Young reflects on a question all climbers have considered, and what climbing means to him.

32

A NEW CLIMBING SCENE IN ARMENIA

44

Ash Brennan takes part in an expedition to bolt new routes in a country where the scene is only just emerging.

32 38

RIDING THE CAMEL

Mikl Law’s ambitious goal was not just to set a 500-metre trad route, but to make it high enough quality to see a few repeats.

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$65.50

16

GETTING TO KNOW: ROSE WELLER

THE USUALS:

12. Editor’s Note 16. Read Watch Listen 18. Getting to know special: Profile of Rose Weller 28. How I Got the Shot: Jack Bryn 56. Updates from Altitude 64. Gallery 70. Poetry

FEATURES:

32. A new climbing scene in Armenia 38. Riding the Camel 44. Why climb?

BETA:

24. Local Lore photo essay: Michael Blowers 53. Mindset Reset 60. Tale of Whoa 74. Climbing gift guide 77. New Gear 81. Beta & Brew

81

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY Vertical Life acknowledges that we live, work, recreate and climb on stolen land, and that sovereignty was never ceded.

We acknowledge the Traditional Custodians across Australia and Aotearoa, and pay our respects to Elders past, present and emerging. We recognise the continuing connection of all First Nations peoples to Country and Culture across all lands and waterways since time immemorial, and reaffirm our commitment to reflection, reconciliation and solidarity.

Issue #49 of Vertical Life was printed on Wangal Country.

SUMMER 2024 11

EDITOR’S NOTE

ACCESS, REFLECTIONS,

looking forward

Just as we were starting to wrap up this edition, excitedly polishing it up ready to print, eager to get into your calloused little hands, the mood changed abruptly as word of the proposed climbing closures at Arapiles/Dyurrite swept through the climbing world.

Climbers reacted with shock, confusion and a great sense of loss to the news that the Victorian Government planned to close more than half the routes at a world class climbing destination. This happened without any consultation with climbers.

In an open letter, authored by key climbing organisations, the reasons for the closures are criticised as being “opaque”. The letter calls for appropriate consultation, emphasising that, “Climbers do not dispute that Aboriginal Cultural heritage and the environment need protection, but they do dispute that rock climbing results in harm— given appropriate management”.

The letter appears in full on page 14, followed by a piece on page 15 by one of VL’s founders and former editors, Simon Madden. Simon reflects on what his years of climbing at Arapiles/Dyurrite have meant to him, and what the place gives to the climbers who have been lucky

enough to visit. The situation may have evolved by the time you read this—so head to the internet for updates—but at VL we wanted to record the immediate response and recognise the unity and strength of the climbing community. (Please feel free to reach out with more stories, reflections and positive memories for future issues.)

I’d like to add some kind of optimistic call to action here about getting involved in advocating for access, joining your local climbing organisation or crag care group, looking after each other in tough times, and all that. But anything I tried to write just sounded cheesy.

And I’m pretty sure you’ve all already thought of any trite suggestions I might have. So I’m just going to get on with telling you about the rest of the magazine, even if it does feel like a jarring change of tone to switch to frothing about the epic content we have lined up for you.

Before frothing commences though, a quick note of caution. Last issue we were stoked to bring you news of Genesis, a new crag near Hobart, in Local Lore. Unfortunately, as you may have seen online, there have been issues with bolts and anchors failing under load testing there. Dave Barnes, who pioneered the crag, is working with the local climbing community to rectify the issues. Check for updates on thecrag.com or thesarvo.com before heading there.

However, in the meantime, we celebrate a different crag near Hobart for all the folks headed south this summer. As our cover photo suggests, kunanyi/Mount Wellington’s Organ Pipes are showcased in Local Lore by Michael Blowers, who shares stunning images of classic lines, and tells the stories of how the routes evolved.

In another piece from Tassie, filmmaker and photographer Jack Bryn tells how he approached getting a new angle on the classic Totem Pole. Those who made it to the Climbing Film Tour this year might recognise Jack as the filmmaker behind Inside Out—a captivating, dreamlike reflection on the Warrumbungles.

We get to know Rose Weller in a profile by Brooke Nolan. At just 23 Rose is juggling full time studies in medicine, while heading out on the weekends to send routes like Attack Mode, 32, in Nowra.

Feature articles include two very different tales of setting new routes.

Ash Brennan travelled to Armenia, where the climbing scene is only just emerging, with a crew to bolt new sport routes. Back in the Blue Mountains, Australia, Mikl Law reflects establishing the epically long 500-metre multipitch, The Camel, 20.

Mat Young digs deep into his climbing journey, with the age-old question of “Why Climb?” (Interestingly, a question I was once asked by locals in Oman—“Yes, we understand you want to climb the rocks.

But WHY do you want to climb them? What do you DO when you get to the top?”)

Gear (and coffee) editor Sule has come up with a gift guide to help you find the perfect Christmas pressie for the climber in your life (or for yourself).

Happy reading, happy climbing, and stay strong!

—Wendy Bruere, VL Editor 12 SUMMER 2024

ADVENTURE LIKE WE DO!

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OPEN LETTER CLIMBING AT ARAPILES / DYURRITE On 4 November 2024, the climbing community across Australia and beyond was stunned to hear about the proposed closures of climbing areas at Mt Arapiles/Dyurrite.

In response to the plan by Parks Victoria to close well over half the routes at Australia’s best crag, climbers and climbing organisations from across Australia came together to request a “full and proper

consultation with the climbing community and other affected stakeholders”.

The request was made via an open letter to the Victorian Minister for the Environment and the Victorian Premier. The letter reinforces the national and international importance of the area as a climbing destination to climbers and the local community, and aims to clarify the immediate concerns about the draft plan.

While the letter has already been widely circulated in the climbing community, Vertical Life has chosen to publish it in full as a record of the immediate, unified community response to the proposed bans.

The letter is reproduced below, along a list of key organisations that endorsed it.

Re: A request for a full and proper consultation with the climbing community and other affected stakeholders before the Mt Arapiles-Tooan State Park Plan of Management is amended

To: the Hon Steve Dimopoulos and the Premier Jacinta Allan embraced by generations Rock climbing at Arapiles/Dyurrite is a profound and life enhancing experience that has been climbing routes, including of climbers. Parks Victoria propose to close half of the climbing areas and the majority of the climbing stakeholders many of international renown. This has occurred without any engagement with recognised such as Climbing Victoria. formulation of the plan.

Parks Victoria claim that they involved the Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Network in that they are not a and Victoria Parks to input provided not have they that stated publicly has n This organisatio Council in their Land Gadjin Barengi the help to was role representative for the climbing community. Their sole Dyurrite.

Arapiles/ at climbing of ing understand marked as closures are In the draft plan, open for public submissions for a mere 28 days, it is made clear that the areas opaque. are closures these for reasons the and n” “consultatio not is This . not open to negotiation

but they do dispute Climbers do not dispute that Aboriginal Cultural heritage and the environment need protection, equate climbing to Victoria Parks by push The t. managemen appropriate given harm in that rock climbing results offer, but they have not been with harm is a false dichotomy. There are many alternatives to closure that climbers could allowed to provide input.

predominantly The natural environment at Arapiles/Dyurrite has been significantly restored over past decades, protection of instituting and reporting in al instrument been have climbers addition through the efforts of climbers. In t agencies. areas of cultural heritage and ecological sensitivity well before this became a focus of governmen Evidence of cultural harm has not been provided to Victorian climbing representatives. which is often every The climbs that will be banned under the current proposal range from the classic Tiptoe Ridge, Gym that was first the in Punks famous world the to through right child’s first introduction to this enchanting place, Hundreds of classic, world time. the at world the in route climbing hardest the 1985 in Gullich Wolfgang by completed world through climbing class routes will no longer be accessible if this plan is implemented. Immersion in the natural . experiences curated by replaced be cannot the closure of Arapiles/ Coming hard on the heels of Parks Victoria’s closures of vast areas in the Grampians/ Gariwerd, industries such as service to t recruitmen and towns, local in hardship economic create will areas Dyurrite climbing contribute visits, prolonged for area the in stay who health and education will be significantly impacted. Climbers, economy. visitor local the substantially to s play and recreation is Outdoor education opportunities will be further curtailed. The ability to undertake adventurou ages. all across health mental and resilience improved directly linked to well-being, urrite. These actions will all International climbers visiting Australia predominantly do so in order to visit Arapiles/Dy Australia. to tourism but cripple international climbing with all stakeholders, to This sham consultation process needs to be stopped and Parks Victoria must engage directly create a new draft plan.

State Government to We, the undersigned climbing organisations, businesses and individuals, call on the Victorian Cultural Landscape) to (Dyurrite Park State oan Arapiles-To the for Plan nt postpone implementation of the Manageme relevant stakeholders. allow proper engagement and consultation with Victorian climbing representatives, and other Climbing Victoria Incorporated: Members: Victorian Climbing Club, Crag Stewards Victoria, Outdoor Victoria, Climbing QTs, RMIT Outdoors Club & Western Victoria Climbing Club Australian Climbing Association Victoria Climbers Club of Tasmania Climbers Association Australian Climbing Association NSW Inc Australian Climbing Association Queensland Canberra Climbers Association of Western Australia Sydney Rock Climbing Club Climbing Club of South Australia

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ISSUE 49 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

JESS DAVIS FLOATS ABOVE IT ALL ON KACHOONG (21). PHOTOS OF THE MAGNIFICENT ROOF THAT GOES AT AN IMPROBABLY MODERATE GRADE HAVE DRAWN CLIMBERS TO MT ARAPILES/DYURRITE FROM AROUND THE GLOBE. IMAGE BY SIMON MADDEN.

REFLECTIONS ON ARAPILES

BY SIMON MADDEN

Simon Madden, one of VL’s founders and former editors, reflects on what years spent climbing at Arapiles means to him.

The routes. Their lore. Their positions. All the perfect and confounding holds on them, all the movements your body contorts and stretches and compresses into between and through them, quietening the mind against emotions that claw at you. All the ecstatic, transcendent, glorious bodily experiences.

But it’s not just one body, there’s always other bodies, someone with you on the rope’s other end, others in the gully, dots in the distance, each route a coming together. All the rope threads across all the years knitting into a golden lattice.

Huddling against freezing winds and baking sun, lost amongst the peaks and chasms, talking moves and pro and just that one single grain of quartzite. Other routes in other places, injuries and failures, pride and inexpressible joy. Faraway dreams mix with up-close terror.

All the things you want to do and dare to do and are afraid to do, wish so hard to do before you die.

But mostly not talking about rocks, climbing them but not talking about crimps or slopes or gear. Instead about love and loss and how the world works and the bits that are fucked and the bits that are wonderful, about how things are in your country because we come here from everywhere, they talk about this place where they are from.

About the brilliant future and the past when everything was better and bolder and brighter. Laughing lightly. Or silent together, in an immense and precious stillness, everything happening Out There is dampened. Meaning-making in the thrall of stone.

Sheeting rain blurring the plains, colours shifting across the months.

Dirt-filthed feet in the Pines, the safest place there is, faces you know and don’t yet and others you haven’t seen in so, so long, their smile erupts and the threads of the years pull a little tighter between you and you remember all the things you’ve done there. Cooking in clutches amongst the trees and walking with a beer between the pools of torchlight under the Mount’s silhouette, everything slowed down by the still-thick air, sitting to wait for darkness to take enough heat out of the day that you can sleep.

Dinners in Nati, street nods, approach shoes and bright pants, tea, everyone wishing their house more insulated, wheat grows as a weed, looking at the photo of Sherm on Lord of the Rings every time you go to the pub, buying a Green Alien from the Mountain shop. The lifers, the doctors, the teachers, the lawyers, the guides, roots laid down amongst the crop fields, weekenders, every-weekenders, those washing through for a season, everyone caught in the art commune, the slow-life.

The Mount is the gateway for most, proving ground for many, and retirement home for the lucky who get to keep doddling up Tip Toe Ridge right until their final days, a beacon that when you first saw it from the highway looked to be falling down but that burned into you the first unfathomable time you touched it. A place so big, bigger than all the words. Some places build you, make you who you are.

Threads unwind and snap, not replaced by enough, cut by politics and bureaucracy and above all power, the threads drew a constellation that lay across the whole of the night sky, a thing to orient by, and it goes out, and it gets dark.

SUMMER 2024 15

READ WATCH LISTEN With Daniel Butler

Read

STATES OF ADVENTURE: 30 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE STORIES ABOUT FINDING YOURSELF

BY FITZ CAHALL This collection of stories from Fitz Cahill, host of The Dirtbag Diaries podcast, takes readers into the world of adventure sports with tales that span the hot and cold, the fast and slow, the technical and the benign. There are a vast range of entries provided by regular people committing to epic adventures ranging from stalwart classics of climbing, skiing and hiking to some slightly more niche pursuits in mono-boarding, handcycling and roller skating. Each story not only fuels the reader’s stoke but also provides insights into the mindsets of the individuals involved.

The book opens with a foreword from Alex Honnold who introduces the author Fitz Cahall as the ”everyman climber”– someone who is “Good enough to get outside and have big adventures” but without the propensity to forget the other things in life. Fitz examines the surprising links between terror/suffering and (sometimes much delayed) retrospective enjoyment. In modern society there are plenty of reasons not to leave the homeostasis of our day to day lives. We have climate-controlled offices and predictable schedules which allow us to exist almost perpetually in a manufactured state of comfort. States of Adventure is a logbook of those who have traded in a few hours, days or in some cases weeks of discomfort for deeper and more exciting flavours of ”fun”.

One of the key themes which runs throughout the book is the ”anyone can do it” attitude. The stories all highlight the incredible feats of the individual adventurers in a way that emphasises the importance of their perseverance, determination and effort, rather than any innate or unachievable level of ability. It is easy to disconnect from

the wild experiences of highly skilled adventurers who’s pursuits sit on a shelf out of our own reach, but each of the journeys in States of Adventure has a certain level of viability to the reader (given the appropriate level of dedication).

Whilst I enjoyed reading about daring ascents up El Capitan and remote ski descents, it was refreshing to also delve into some more eclectic sports, such as Burro Racing. Burro Racing is a sport endemic to the South Western states of America which is similar to long distance running. The key component however is that all participants must have a donkey in tow. Whilst this is not a sport likely to make its mark in Australia, I appreciated reading about some of the more left-field activities that fellow outdoorsy types get up to.

Each story presented in the States of Adventure comes alongside a host of impressive photographs and a location pinpoint (most of the stories are from the US). This is a nice touch and provides some further context for the stories. My personal favourite, Unseen But Felt is written by the author himself and is based in the Sierra Nevada. This is a story of a hiking/climbing trip which took a turn for the cold and miserable in its final throes. I resonated with this story as it takes you along the mental journey of an expedition, from letting go of your work life at home, all the way through to the serene scenes of following deer trails in untouched snow.

Whether you are a climber looking for relatable content for some afternoon reading or someone who enjoys seeking out the weird and wonderful niches of the outdoorsy community, there is a story in States of Adventure for you.

Getting Lost, DK Publishing

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ISSUE 49 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

Watch THE MOUNTAIN QUEEN (LHAKPA SHERPA) The mountains draw climbers to them for many reasons, for some it is out of ego, for others it is fame. Lhakpa Sherpa, the Mountain Queen, fits neither of these categories. The Mountain Queen is a documentary directed by Lucy Walker which depicts the journey of the first Nepali woman to summit and descend Chomolungma (Everest).

Lhakpa, who has summited Everest more than any other woman in the world, walks through each of her ascents as chapters in her life and describes the tribulations she has faced along the way.

Despite her numerous record-breaking ascents in the Himalayas, Lhakpa’s most challenging summit was in Connecticut where she found herself fighting to stay

strong through challenging personal circumstances and relationships. She explains how her perspective on the mountains and broader life has been shaped through the lens of the domestic abuse she faced. Chomolungma, the Sherpa name for Everest, means ‘God and Mother’. This takes on new meaning as Lhakpa describes how the mountain returned her pride and allowed her to escape the difficulties of her home life.

The film shows how remarkably humble Lhakpa is. Flying in the face of her fame, Lhakpa is distinctly human, living a relatively simple life in the US. She works long shifts at the local food shop and is raising two daughters facing

their own array of life’s challenges.

Through all of this she maintains her impressive determination and strength for Himalayan ascents.

This film resonated with me, not only for its take on a number of modern societal issues but also as a motivational piece on the ability of someone living a fairly ordinary life at home to maintain a highly successful career in climbing.

Streaming on Netflix

Listen BABSI AND JACOPO: THE FLAME BURNS BRIGHT, CLIMBING GOLD PODCAST With its birthplace in mountaineering, climbing has historically been surrounded in adventure, commitment and equipment reliance. However, since the late 20th century climbing has taken an alternative path with newer members of the community now able to enjoy the sport without owning any gear or venturing beyond the reaches of air conditioning. The introduction of high quality commercial climbing gyms has made climbing materially more accessible, yet in this process has diluted the prevalence of more traditional forms of outdoor rock climbing. Further to this, with the inclusion of climbing in the Olympics and the subsequent explosion of modern indoor bouldering as a primary form of climbing, expedition and adventure climbing of the past seem to be growing ever more remote.

Babsi Zangerl and Jacobo Larcher are walking this path in the opposite direction, and this is explored in Alex Honnold’s podcast, Climbing Gold.

With backgrounds in competition climbing and hard bouldering, Babsi and Jacobo have sought to apply their unique strengths and skillsets fostered indoors to hard trad routes and adventurous big walls. This approach has allows them to not only push the limits of their own comfort zones, but also the boundaries of adventure climbing itself.

Babsi and Jacobo talk about their journey into this side of the sport and how their decision to return to this more traditional form of climbing (albeit with a modern mindset) was fundamentally based on a desire to challenge themselves. Through the podcast they discuss how they needed to

work through their hesitancy to fall, a general mistrust of trad gear and the strategies they employed to work through these aspects.

This podcast provides insight into the journey into hard trad climbing and how modern climbing styles can be leveraged to progress the world of adventure climbing.

Streaming on Spotify

ABOUT THE REVIEWER: Daniel is a Sydney based outdoor enthusiast who spends his free time rock climbing, cave diving and planning mountaineering escapades. Daniel has climbed and dived across Australia and New Zealand with a particular focus on traditional climbing.

Somewhat ironically, Daniel spends his weekdays working as an insurance broker.

SUMMER 2024 17

GETTING TO KNOW ROSE CLIMBING THE CRUX OF BIG BABIES (32) AT NOWRA.

BY RYAN SKLENICA.

Rose

WELLER

(SHE/HER) CANBERRA Profile by Brooke Nolan

Self-described weekend warrior Rose Weller has been quietly ticking off an impressive list of sends while studying to become a doctor. Writer Brooke Nolan was able to grab a sliver of Rose’s spare time to find out what drives her, how she makes such a hectic schedule work and what she plans to do next.

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ISSUE 49 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

“I first realised I could juggle being a good climber with my studies when I climbed a 32 called Attack Mode in Nowra,” Rose Weller says modestly, in the same casual way I’d announce I’d smashed a family-sized bar of Dairy Milk in one sitting.

Based in Canberra, Rose is just 23 years old but has an impressive backlog of sends that would make people twice her age happy. And she’s done it all while juggling intense full-time studies to become a doctor.

“I’m definitely a weekend warrior,” she admits, sharing how her weekends often involve jumping in the car with her partner, Ryan, early on a Saturday morning to head to Nowra, their local crag, a two-hour drive away, then returning later that night to make room for studying on a Sunday.

Nowra is home to most of Rose’s projects, including Attack Mode. “I projected that for maybe six weeks back in 2021, and I remember feeling this immense sense of achievement. I hadn’t climbed anything hard for a while because I was so focused on school, but doing Attack Mode reminded me that I could balance both climbing and life.”

GROWING UP IN THE CLIMBING WORLD Rose’s introduction to climbing came at an early age, thanks to her dad, an avid climber himself.

“He started sport climbing in around 2010, so I was about 10 or 11 when I first got into it,” she recalls. “Climbing with my dad was a big motivator. He’d send a climb, and I’d think, ‘If he can do it, I can do it.’”

To this day, they still climb together. “He still climbs really strong himself—he’s climbed a couple of 31s,” she says. “We still climb together, and it’s great to have that connection.”

By the time she was in year seven, Rose’s passion for climbing had grown so much that she was heading to the climbing gym on her own. “Once I could catch the bus there by myself, I wanted to go all the time,” she remembers.

It wasn’t just the family bonding that got her hooked but a general love of sports and the outdoors. Like many Aussies, Rose’s childhood was spent outside, bushwalking, hiking, camping and skiing. But her main sport was running.

“I was running competitively, and that was kind of my main sport, but then I tried climbing and it was just so much more engaging. I think I liked not being good at it,” she laughs. “There’s always something new to work on, whether it’s technique, strength, or overcoming fear.”

With running in the rear-view mirror, Rose started climbing indoors as well as out. “We trained on this 55-degree overhang spray wall.

That kind of steep and powerful climbing really shaped my style,” she explains.

She later joined a training squad led by coaches Emma and Cait Horan—the sisters are both well-known climbers in their own right.

And being surrounded by other gun climbers has clearly brushed off on Rose.

Because—although she jokes that she likes not being good at something—it’s pretty clear that when this woman has a mission in mind, it’s damn well going to happen.

FAILURES AND FALLING One of her most significant sends is a 33 at Nowra known as Cheese Change, a 20m sports climb with some seriously powerful roof climbing.

“This became my longest project ever. It took me about a year and a half to send, and it was completely different from anything I’d climbed before,” she explains. “Previously, I’d tried very short, powerful bouldery routes, and then this one was a bit more power and endurance. Plus, the crux is right at the end—a big, powerful jump that I just couldn’t stick.”

For over a year, Rose threw herself at the climb, falling off the last

ON THE SUMMIT OF MERA PEAK, NEPAL. BY DENDI SHERPA.

move countless times. “We have it on video—over 50 falls from the last move,” she says.

As someone who mainly climbs for the social side and is happy to hang off a draw or two, I wanted to know: how did she keep going?

“I think it was simply knowing that I could do it—I just needed to try different strategies,” she says. “I spent a year going from the ground up, and then realised it wasn’t going to work, I flipped it and the next season I started working it top-down, doing bigger links and getting used to the moves when I was tired. People thought I was crazy, saying, ‘Why don’t you just go from the ground?’ But that method really helped me mentally prepare.”

When she finally sent the route, it felt surreal. “I was just in shock. It was my first go of the day, and everything felt right. When I stuck the crux, I couldn’t believe it—it was like all that work had finally paid off,” she says.

BONDING OVER BETA It’s not just the inner monologue that pushes Rose to keep going on the hardest routes, but her partner, Ryan. The two met while climbing in Nowra, and now spend most of their time projecting routes together.

“We climb together pretty much all the time,” Rose says. “It’s really great because we have different strengths, so we can push each other and learn from one another.”

Of course, the odd bit of healthy competition is thrown in, and nothing says ‘I love you’ like shared beta.

“The second time we met, I was working on this project that I’d already put 20 sessions into. Ryan shows up, and in four or five sessions, he just sends it. I was like, ‘What on earth?!’” she laughs.

“Though he did share some pretty useful beta afterwards.”

MIXING PHYSICAL AND MENTAL TRAINING Over the years Rose has organised her training regime to perfection, getting as much as possible out of the limited time she has available between competition priorities.

“CLIMBING WITH MY DAD WAS A BIG MOTIVATOR. HE’D SEND A CLIMB, AND I’D THINK, ‘IF HE CAN DO IT, I CAN DO IT.’” SUMMER 2024 19

GETTING TO KNOW ROSE WELLER

COMPETING AT 9 DEGREES, WATERLOO. BY TARA DAVIDSON.

CLIMBING DUNGEON MASTER (31) AT NOWRA. BY LACHLAN NORRIS.

“Time management is key,” she explains. “I try to make the most of the time I have, whether it’s for training or for study.”

One thing that has helped is having a home training wall, which allows her to fit in quick and efficient sessions. “It’s really helpful because I can just say, ‘I’ve only got two hours, I need to get my session done,’ and there are fewer distractions than at the gym. It’s also good for if the weather isn’t great.”

With some hard core climbing behind her, Rose has learned the importance of rest and recovery and how essential it is to listen to the body. As we all know, climbing can often be mentally taxing as well as physically demanding.

“Deloading is important because otherwise, you’ll burn out and get injured. If there’s a week where I can’t train as much, I don’t stress about it—it’s okay to take some downtime,” she says.

“Climbing’s cumulative stress, not just from the activity itself but from life as well. If you’re stressed from work or school, that’s going to carry into your climbing. I’ve learned to manage that stress and make sure I don’t burn out.”

However, even with a tight schedule, and the inevitable fatigue that comes from it, climbing remains an essential outlet.

“After a long day in the hospital or a tough week of study, getting outside and climbing is such a release,” she says. “It helps me focus better when I’m back at work.”

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ON METAMORPHOSIS (29) AT NOWRA. BY PAULA DERLATKA.

As well as dedicated physical training time, rest, and recovery, another secret to smashing sends like Rose, is mental preparation— particularly visualisation.

“Before a tough climb, I’ll find a quiet spot and visualise myself doing it. I try to imagine how I’ll feel—tired, nervous, whatever— and that really helps me stay calm when I’m actually on the wall,” she explains.

On the wall, staying calm and focusing on breath is key, especially during tough spots or nerve-wracking runouts.

“If you’ve got a rest or somewhere to pause, it’s important to stay calm,” she says. “Breathing helps. And if I know I need to rest longer but I’m bored or just want to keep going, I’ll come back to that visualisation process, imagining the rest of the climb. It really helps with staying focused.”

BIG CHEESE, BIG CHALLENGE As Rose nears the end of her medical degree, she’s starting to think about the future, both in terms of climbing and her career. “I’m not sure yet what I want to specialise in,” she admits. “But I’ve thought about expedition medicine or maybe psychiatry. Climbing is a sport that’s not very focussed on by medicine—and I’d love to find a way to incorporate it into my career somehow.”

In the meantime, Rose unsurprisingly has some big climbs ahead.

She recently sent ‘Big Babies,’ a 32 link-up at Nowra, and has her

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FOR OVER A YEAR, ROSE THREW HERSELF AT THE CLIMB, FALLING OFF THE LAST MOVE COUNTLESS TIMES. “WE HAVE IT ON VIDEO—OVER 50 FALLS FROM THE LAST MOVE,” SHE SAYS.

TRYING THE CRUX OF BIG CHEESE Photo: Michael Blowers

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GETTING TO KNOW ROSE WELLER

CLIMBING METAMORPHOSIS AT NOWRA. BY RYAN SKLENICA

ROSE COMPETING AT THE NSW STATE TITLES. BY TARA DAVISON

ANOTHER SHOT ON METAMORPHOSIS. BY PAULA DERLATKA

FOR ROSE, COMPETING DOESN’T NECESSARILY COME WITH THE GOAL OF WINNING BUT TO PUSH HER LIMITS AND IDENTIFY AND WORK ON HER WEAKNESSES. sights set on ‘Big Cheese,’ a 34 at the same crag. “It’s a massive, inspiring line,” she says. “When I saw Daniel Fisher do it a few years ago, I was blown away. It’s been on my bucket list ever since.”

She’d also like to get back to Tasmania to tackle some unfinished business there and has a few friends angling for her to head to Flatanger in Norway.

Amongst it all, Rose is also planning to get back into indoor climbing and comps—although she admits she sometimes finds it tricky to balance the training (and budget) for indoor outdoor climbing. But the benefits outweigh the effort.

“I’ve always liked the challenge of indoor climbing and competitions,” she says. “I like that every competition is going to have new styles, new boulders. You don’t know what you’re going to get,” she says. “It’s fun to push yourself and see what you can do in the moment when you’ve only got five minutes or just one attempt on a lead wall.”

For Rose, competing doesn’t necessarily come with the goal of winning but to push her limits and identify and work on her weaknesses. These include competition-style slab, walking on volumes and coordination boulders, plus other more threedimensional elements.

“I mainly climb very steep, overhung things outdoors, so I’m not used to standing on really small footholds or smeary volumes. It’s definitely something I need to work on, and it will ultimately help my outdoor climbing too,” she says.

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THE IMPORTANCE OF CLIMBING VARIETY When asked what advice she’d give to someone just starting out climbing or who wants to start increasing their grades, Rose is clear.

“Climb a lot of volume and variety. When you’re starting out, it’s easy to think that climbing is a strength-based sport, but it’s really a skill-based sport,” she explains. “The earlier you can start trying different styles, expanding your skills, and learning new techniques, the better.”

Rose herself continues to follow this advice. “Even now, I’m trying to climb different styles that I’m not necessarily good at,” she says. “I have to drop the grades quite a lot, but I know it’ll help make me a better climber, and at the end of the day, it’s enjoyable and that’s what it’s about.”

It’s become very clear during our chat that whether she’s sending hard routes at Nowra, training on her home wall, or studying for her next medical exam, one thing is for sure is that Rose’s approach to life is one of balance, focus, and—above all—passion.”

“Sometimes we just have to remind ourselves that climbing is fun,” she says with a smile. “Ryan and I will say it to each other before we start a climb, just to keep things light. At the end of the day, we do this because we love it, right?”

Blue Mountains-based journalist BROOKE NOLAN is a new climber and long time lover of the outdoors. She can often be found at the base of a crag eating cake.

LOCAL LORE PHOTO ESSAY

THE OLD & THE NEW

THE ORGAN PIPES, LUTRAWITA/TASMANIA WORDS AND IMAGES BY MICHAEL BLOWERS

The Organ Pipes of kunanyi/Mt Wellington boasts a rich climbing history dating back to the 1930s, with bold accents on primitive gear on uncompromising, sustained natural lines to modern, bolt-equipped routes that tackle its wildly exposed aretes and faces. While both styles can contrast very heavily, no matter which era the route is from, they carry a heavy sense of adventure. In this series of images, Hobart local and photographer, Michael Blowers, explores routes from different eras of development on The Organ Pipes.

PEGASUS DIRECT (14) The first ascent took place in 1965 by Tom Terry and Alan Cross when route development started to ramp up on the Organ Pipes after the formation of the Climbers Club of Tasmania. The route follows a chimney, which deposits you on top of the large, detached flake with a heady feeling of exposure as you stare at your last piece of protection, a slung chockstone far below, and contemplate the wide crack above.

You can't help but appreciate how it was done on the original nuts and pitons and the intense adventure it would have been at the time. Here, Will Kelly takes in his unlikely position atop the detached flake.

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RASPBERRY JAM AND CRACKERS (18) The route, established in 1972 by G. Body, Bryan Kennedy and Lyle Closs, is a delicate dance up the technical face on sparse yet good enough gear to keep things in the realm of sanity. In this image, Scott Roberts opts for a modern, tiny Alien cam over the original piton that protects the thin start of the climb.

HOLIDAY IN CAMBODIA (21) The route was first ascended by Phil Bigg and Simon Parsons in 1982, a time when the two, along with Doug Fife, established many classics after being inspired by a newly published guidebook. They began tackling harder cracks but also venturing out to the aretes and faces of the columns. In this image, Ewan Barry is puzzling out the route ahead and the dwindling options on his rack after the long and strenuous corner leading into incredible hand jamming.

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LOCAL LORE PH0TO ESSAY

NEON GOD (25) This route was established by Sam Edwards in 1997 during a new wave of fully bolted climbs tackling the striking lines on the more difficult faces on the Pipes. Here, we see Gareth Lee pulling through perfectly sculpted crimps in the lower half of the climb. With a focus on fluid yet varied movement and a soaring 50m pitch length, it's become a modern classic.

SLAP DANCER (27) Another Sam Edwards route from 1997, the unlikely freestanding pillar, uncompromisingly modern in style, has become a unique and widely known classic. The route involves brutal yet technical compression climbing between the two aretes of the pillar. Standing atop the pillar you're gifted an incredible view, with the Amphitheatre on one side and uninterrupted views of Hobart and the ocean on the other. In true Organ Pipes style, despite the fact you've just climbed a 10m sports route, you can't help but be blown away by the crazy position you're in. Scott Roberts took this shot of me pulling the final difficult moves before topping out the pillar.

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REMEMBRANCE (21) The incredible two-pitch route was established by Dave Humphries and Jon Nermut in 2012 in a wave of new moderate, multi-pitch climbs bolted in the modern style that had, at this point, become prevalent on the mountain. The route follows a soaring arete, involving delicate and exciting moves over attention-demanding exposure. In this image, Tink Olynick delicately moves through the tricky moves of the second pitch.

Paul “Frothy” Thomson at his sacred place in the Blue Mountains.

Climb: Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair (27) at Banks Gully Amphiteatre SUMMER 2024 27 Photo: Ben Sanford

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HOW I GOT THE SHOT

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TALES TOTEM WORDS AND MAIN IMAGES BY JACK BRYN

The Totem Pole is one of Australia's most iconic climbing formations, and it's easy to capture the classic shot from a well-known vantage point—standing on a ledge, shooting southeast with a wide-angle lens to highlight the full scale of the sea stack. While this image certainly shows off the imposing stature of the sea stack against the rugged coastline, Jack Bryn was after a shot that would evoke a deeper connection, one that would allow the viewer to craft their own narrative about what was unfolding in that moment.

JACK BRYN, BY PETER DEEGAN

This shot was captured while I was down in Tasmania shooting my first short film, The Totem Pole. It was my first time in Tassie, a place that has always held a certain awe and wonder for outdoorsmen. Growing up with a love for the outdoors and working at outdoor retailers, I often spoke with hikers, climbers, and adventurers preparing for their trips to Tasmania, and the island always carried a sense of mystery and adventure.

I remember sitting in a little café in Hobart the day after I arrived, waiting for my friend Christian to pick me up for our drive down to Fortescue Bay. I had just started reading The Snow Leopard by Peter Matthiessen. While this wasn’t a two-month expedition in search of snow leopards in the Dolpo region on the Tibetan Plateau in the Himalayas, it gave me a similar sense of anticipation and the feeling that I was stepping into something both unknown and exciting.

For those who don’t know (I am sure that is very few), standing 65 metres tall, the Totem Pole is a slender sea stack off Tasmania’s southeastern coast, nestled within the Tasman National Park. First climbed in 1968, the Totem’s wind-battered ascent, unpredictable weather, and dramatic ocean backdrop have earned it a reputation as a test of both physical and mental endurance. Its striking silhouette against the wild Southern Ocean makes it as beautiful as it is challenging. Access to the Tote is via the Cape Hauy track, and I became quite familiar with

PETER DEEGAN CAPTURED CRUISING UP THE SECOND PITCH, FRAMED AGAINST THE ICONIC SILHOUETTE OF THE TOTEM POLE.

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HOW I GOT THE SHOT TALES FROM THE TOTEM

JACK BRYN SITTING 65 METERS ABOVE THE PACIFIC OCEAN ON A TYROLEAN TRAVERSE, READY TO CAPTURE THE CREW AS THEY RAPPEL TO THE BASE OF THE TOTEM POLE. BY CHRISTIAN MCEWAN.

WILL CLARKE PLAYING A CAM WHILST LEADING UP THE FIRST PITCH OF THE FREE ROUTE

this approach, having to do it three times in total. The approach is a very undulating five kilometre trek to the main viewing platform, plus an extra, unmarked traverse down and along the cliffside to the rappel ledge.

It’s a beautiful trail and would be a pretty cruisy walk with just a day pack, but we had a ton of gear—ropes (both static and dynamic), all our climbing equipment, plus all of my photography and filming gear. It definitely made the hike feel like more of a mission! As a solo shooter, time on location was going to be gold. We had a solid plan for capturing the boys climbing. The first day would be all about them tackling the Tote, while I focused on getting my land-based footage and images. The second day would shift more towards filming, with some ropes set up on the Tote. I’d be able to scoot over on the Tyrolean traverse and spend the day jugging up and down to capture those incredible tight top-down shots and on-wall perspectives. With the boys having already climbed it the day before, this would really be the time to convey the emotion and intensity for the film.

In adventure photography and filmmaking, things rarely go as planned, and I think it is how you deal with those situations that makes it all the more enjoyable. After hiking out, we arrived only to find a pair of climbers having a bit of an epic, stuck on the belay ledge halfway up. Luckily, we weren’t the only ones there—another pair of climbers we met on the trail joined in to make a plan for how we could rescue them. While we were discussing the plan, we stumbled across a moon boot at the rappel ledge, which we later found out belonged to one of the climbers in trouble.

Why anyone would hike all the way in, squeeze an injured foot into a painfully tight climbing shoe, and then tackle something like the Totem, we’ll never know. The upside? Will and Maddy, the couple we met on the trail, not only climbed the Totem (as they’d originally planned) but also helped rescue the stranded pair. They trailed one of our static ropes up with them to use for the Tyrolean to get back.

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This turned out to be a huge help because when we returned the next day to take on the Totem ourselves, the Tyrolean was already set up.

While sitting at camp that night, we had to come up with a new plan. Given the challenge and difficulty of climbing the Tote, we realised that the chances of us hiking out there and then getting ropes set up for me to shoot on the wall were pretty slim. In my mind, that was a crucial part of my approach to capturing the essence of the story, and without it, I wouldn’t have as much diversity in shots for the film. As I mentioned earlier, the Totem Pole is an incredible piece of rock, and everyone knows the classic shots that showcase its scale and majesty. So, how could I capture it in a fresh way and create images that truly convey the intensity and emotion of the climbers?

As a photographer, I constantly wrestle with how to frame the scene. Focusing solely on the climber can highlight every detail of their movement and effort, but it often leaves out the breathtaking environment that makes these moments extraordinary. On the other hand, focusing too much on the landscape can pull attention away from the climber's experience and the intensity of the climb. The challenge is to combine both—to capture the climber’s emotional journey within the awe-inspiring surroundings, allowing the full weight of the moment to come through. That’s where the real magic happens, when the image not only tells the story of the climb but also reflects the connection between human effort and the natural world.

The day before, I spent my time scouting the best spots to capture each part of the climb. For all the photographers out there, I had three lenses on me for this project: a 16-35mm f/2.8, a 24-105mm f/4, and a 70-200mm f/2.8, which gave me great coverage from all angles. There was one particular ledge where I spent most of my time because it offered the best view of the entire climb. We had already set up a short static rope as a safety line that went from the

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IF I HAD BEEN TOO FOCUSED ON GETTING EXACT SHOTS AT SPECIFIC TIMES DURING THE CLIMB, I MIGHT HAVE MISSED THOSE MAGICAL MOMENTS WHEN EVERYTHING JUST LINED UP. trail down to my little ledge. I was on the ledge for most of the day but kept racing back up to the rap ledge to capture different angles.

As a solo shooter, finding the right balance was tricky; I didn’t want to miss anything while moving between spots.

In those moments, I found that not having a rigid plan and adopting a more run-and-gun approach worked to my advantage. If I had been too focused on getting exact shots at specific times during the climb, I might have missed those magical moments when everything just lined up. This shot, in particular, happened earlier in the day. I remember looking down at the boys and being struck by how beautifully the light was hitting the Tote. The light was striking the thin tower, while the surrounding space was shrouded in darkness, with crashing waves stirring ragged seaweed and the echoes of a sea lion—who had been cruising around all day— creating an atmosphere that felt like it was drawing the eye to what was happening on the wall.

At the end of the day, what I love most about photography and filmmaking is the storytelling aspect. Some images or films are admired for their beautiful cinematography or creative uses of lighting, but I find the story behind them to be the most interesting

part. I could show this image to people, and they would come up with their own narratives about what was happening in that moment, how it felt to be there, or they might simply appreciate it as a beautiful photo, never bothering to read this.

For me, the image holds a different story than it does for Peter Deegan and Christian Nicoll, who were climbing, Christian McEwen, who was battling the waves at the base of the pillar, and Iain Watt, who was watching it all unfold from on top of the Tote.

The places we find ourselves in as climbers and adventurers are nothing short of extraordinary—wild, remote, and full of awe.

These environments push us to our limits while offering moments of deep connection with nature. As an adventure photographer and filmmaker, I feel privileged to capture these moments, preserving the beauty and intensity of such environments forever.

Camera specs for the nerds • Shot on Sony A7iv w/ FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS II @ 70mm • Shutter speed 1/640 • Aperture f2.8 • ISO 200 JACK BRYN is a rock climber, adventure filmmaker, and photographer based on the Gold Coast. His first short film, The Totem Pole, was featured in the 2023 Climbing Film Tour, and his second film, Inside Out, was recently showcased in the 2024 Climbing Film Tour. Through his work, he hopes to spark curiosity and inspire others to create and explore.

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FEATURE HAGHARTSIN MONASTERY, FOUNDED ~10TH CENTURY AND STILL IN USE

Photos this page: Mira Jordan

BUNDLES OF HAY ON THE SLOPES OF MT DIMATS

LATE SUMMER BLOSSOM

JAMES AND TAD CLEANING AND BOLTING SCYTHE (2 PITCH, 7A+) WITH DILIJAN IN THE DISTANCE

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(LEFT TO RIGHT) MIRA JORDAN, JAMES FISHER, LOUIS BHIM, ASH BRENNAN, TAD KARAPETIAN AND BRENDAN CRISP, READY FOR ANYTHING! BY MIRA JORDAN.

LOUIS NEARS THE TOP ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MOUNTAIN THYME (3 PITCH, 6C+) ). BY ASH BRENNAN

A new climbing scene in

Armenia

WORDS BY ASH BRENNAN, IMAGES BY ASH BRENNAN, MIRA JORAN AND LOUIS BHIM

Armenia isn’t on many people’s radar for climbing, but perhaps it will be soon if Ash has anything to do with it. In August 2024, he and five friends went to develop a new crag in Dilijan National Park, discovering the potential for sport routes with a truly adventurous feel.

On a sunny morning in August 2024, I was relaxing in our base camp in a cow paddock at 2,300 metres. Below camp the limestone cliffs stretched for kilometres in either direction. I was on camp duty, the main tasks being water filtration and protecting the campsite from cows. There were cirrus clouds high above, making the sky a greyish-blue ceiling. Egyptian and Griffin vultures were circling, and when they came close enough I could hear the whoosh of air through their feathers. I counted about a dozen, moving in twos and threes in different strata above me. What an awesome place just to visit, let alone develop a whole new crag.

My friend Tad issued the call early in 2024, and I was one of five veterans of the UNSW Outdoors Club who answered. The others were Mira, James, Brendan and Louis. We were all drawn into Tad’s vision by a mix of factors, the allure of Armenia being the common theme. It’s a country that is a little off the beaten track. We were all keen for an expedition, route development, and first ascents. I think we each had a sense that this far-flung country was a big part of Tad’s identity, and we wanted to know more about the place and our friend.

Tad’s first extended trip to Armenia was in 2017, as part of the Birthright Armenia program which connects diasporans with volunteer projects in the country. He volunteered mainly with the Trans Caucasian Trail (TCT) Organisation in Dilijan, and through

this met Val Ismaili who would go on to lead the first expedition to bolt sport climbing routes in the area.

“We were both really like, ‘Wow, this is a cool place, there’s a lot of diversity of rock, it’s quite wild and there’s a lot of potential around’,” Tad explains. “A couple of years passed and I get a message from Val saying, ‘Hey I’m putting together a team to go and develop some routes in Armenia, would you be interested?’ Straight away without question I was like ‘Yes, I’m in’.”

That expedition took place over seven weeks in 2019 and developed 22 routes in three areas, which would become known as Empress Slabs, Shady Water Gulley, and The Nest. Even at that time, Tad was thinking about coming back.

“It was in my mind that I have a strong connection to Armenia because of my cultural background and I really wanted to have some form of contribution to this country,” he says. “This is a budding sport in Armenia; there needs to be people that put their foot forward to develop routes, bring forth that culture and also create good ethics.”

In the months leading up to our departure, we had many remote meetings to discuss objectives, gear, travel arrangements and other logistics. Two major development objectives which came from these SUMMER 2024 33

FEATURE A NEW CLIMBING SCENE IN ARMENIA

JAMES QUESTS UPWARDS WITH BOLTING KIT TO WORK ON SCYTHE (2 PITCH, 7A+). BY ASH BRENNAN

meetings were multi-pitch routes and accessible grades. We decided these contributions could offer the most to the Dilijan area and anyone who might visit.

EXPEDITION PLANNING However, objectives come to nothing if the logistics to realise them aren’t in place. Tad outdid himself in this regard. Having now spent a considerable amount of time in Armenia (and being able to speak the language), he has the connections that are vital to the functioning of an expedition like this.

“I think it would be extremely difficult, to come here without prior knowledge, to organise a lot of things because the society is primarily relationship based,” he says. “I almost feel out of my depth because I have to make so many phone calls, more phone calls than I’ve made in a whole year I have to make in a week.”

There were a multitude of miscellaneous organisational tasks which needed to be sorted once we were all in Armenia. We needed general gear (a shovel, gas, pots, kindly provided by Trails for Change), bolting gear (extra bolts, extra drill, lent by Tad’s friend Luca), transport to Dilijan, a place to stay and store gear in Dilijan (Dilijan Hikers Hostel), and a 4x4 to get the gear up into the mountains, just to name a few challenges. All of this was arranged by Tad. He would make calls to friends from previous trips, and if they couldn’t help, then inevitably they would know someone who could.

There was also the issue of permission. Tad had contacted the Armenian bolting committee some months prior, but his emails had been missed. This meant that we had a tense email exchange asking for permission after we had all arrived in Armenia. Luckily, after a few days, they gave their approval, and we could focus on the task at hand: deciding where to develop climbing routes.

The first mission after arriving and shuttling the gear from Yerevan to the town of Dilijan (~90 minute drive) was to do a scouting hike.

We had two possible options for route development: adding more routes to the area developed in 2019, or opening up a new crag at a cleft in the cliff line higher up in the mountains.

Our scouting hike began in a forested valley at Haghartsin Monastery and followed a section of the TCT up into the highlands, 34 SUMMER 2024

“THIS IS A BUDDING SPORT IN ARMENIA; THERE NEEDS TO BE PEOPLE THAT PUT THEIR FOOT FORWARD TO DEVELOP ROUTES, BRING FORTH THAT CULTURE AND ALSO CREATE GOOD ETHICS.” leaving the tree line far behind. We covered 1,000 metres of ascent along rocky farm roads, and camped by Mt Dimats in what may be one of the world’s most scenic cattle ranches, with a view from the tops of limestone cliffs over an expansive valley. We were travelling slow and heavy, carrying ropes and gear for inspecting the cliffs.

We visited the possible new crag at a cleft that offered easy access through the cliff line. As we approached from above for the first time, the gully slowly opened up beneath us, revealing an imposing main face on the left: blue-grey and 70 metres tall, ranging from slabby to vertical. We descended into the gully and a variety of secluded smaller faces became apparent on the right. We set up natural anchors to abseil in and identified potential lines on the main left-hand face, and on one of the lesser right-hand faces.

Although we didn’t formally make the decision until later, we were all excited by the possibilities the gully had to offer. There was great rock, difficulties that were within our abilities, alternate morning or afternoon shade for the different faces, and above all, an adventurous feeling of exposure high up in the mountains.

We continued along the TCT through the mountains to our next stop, descending several hundred metres to the crags that Tad had helped bolt in 2019. Climbing the routes in this area helped us to get a taste for the rock and the style of climbing. We returned to the town of Dilijan full of hope for the routes to come and quickly decided to return to the gully for bolting.

Our rest day in Dilijan consisted of logistics and shopping for our planned nine days in the mountains. We laid siege to a local supermarket. James amazed the attendant in the nut section by purchasing over $100 worth of walnuts, almonds, cashews and sultanas.

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bolting new routes, growing worldwide media attention, and an influx of Russians who climb after the breakout of the Russia – Ukraine war. With Yerevan’s first commercial climbing gym set to open in 2025, things are only likely to accelerate.

“It started out really, really slow [in] those early 2000s, there just wasn’t a lot going on. But now every single year the sport is becoming more and more popular. I think eventually it’s gonna explode” Luca says, his enthusiasm palpable.

“What gets me the most excited about climbing in Armenia is just the sheer potential. There is the potential for basically any and all forms of rock climbing. If it’s bouldering, if it’s single pitch sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch, Armenia has all of it and it’s just waiting to be discovered.”

Today there are about 300 sport routes in Armenia, but there is a lifetime supply of rock in the country. From our base camp alone, we could take in kilometres of limestone cliffs, shifting from bluegrey to orange, some of it hundreds of metres tall, and all virtually unexplored for climbing.

MIRA BOLTING MOUNTAIN THYME (3 PITCH, 6C+). BY LOUIS BHIM

It was liberating to be amongst all that rock, with the ability to develop and climb what we wanted, but it was also overwhelming.

How do you know where to start on such a mammoth task? We had done our scouting trip and had a rough idea of where our routes would go, but even within the limited scope of our individual lines up those specific faces, it was a daunting task to decide which sequence of holds to string together.

FINDING THE LINES GETTING READY TO BOLT The following day was slated for making the journey back up into the mountains and setting up base camp. Tad had a friend, Luca, driving over from Yerevan, who would be joining us for two days.

Luca had offered to transport all our kit up the rough mountain roads to our base camp at the top of the cliffs. He would take two of our team, and the rest of us would walk up the mountain. However, it had been two years since Luca had driven these mountain roads, and their condition had deteriorated significantly. Almost immediately, the heavily laden Honda CRV got a flat, and they determined the car wouldn’t make it. A local driver with a Soviet era Villis Jeep was called in to transport the gear, while Luca dropped his car in town and then made the trip up to camp.

Luca was a font of knowledge on Armenian climbing, having been living and climbing in the country on and off since 2009. He sits on the Armenian bolting committee and has bolted about 40 routes himself in the country. He also works in the family wine business and livened up our base camp with some exceptional reds.

Luca described how Armenian climbing is at the beginning of its development.

“In 2009 I would venture to say that there were fewer than 50 sport climbs in the entire country,” he tells me. “The scene was super small.”

When Luca moved back to Armenia in 2019, he had already climbed almost all the available routes in the country.

We naturally split off into pairs, depending on which lines took our fancy. Mira and Louis worked on the massive main face, Brendan and I took a single pitch route on a spire on the right, while James and Tad worked on the huge arete. Luca, only having a couple of days with us, did some scouting of his own and helped out where his expertise was needed.

The days quickly blended together. We top rope solo’d on fixed lines to try and figure out where each route should go, always with a lot of discussion within each pair. Once we decided where the route should be, we would start cleaning off loose rock and deciding on bolt positions. This, too, involved a lot of discussion. For Brendan and I, slightly different beta made different bolt positions better or worse, and we needed to come to a consensus on the best locations.

Slowly, we worked through these discussions and eventually found ourselves at the point where there was nothing left to do but sink some bolts into the rock. This part of the process went surprisingly quickly, and after only three of our nine days, Brendan and I had a finished 35 metre rock climb. The others were working on multipitch routes of about 60 metres and took a little longer, but by day six all our routes were fully bolted. There were enough bolts to add one easier route, and Mira took the lead on this.

A CELEBRATORY SCENIC DINNER ABOVE CAMP AFTER THE SUCCESSFUL BOLTING MISSION. BY MIRA JORDAN

“I was just thinking that, ‘Man, I kind of need to bolt some stuff for myself.’ You know so I could just keep on improving” he says, and over the years he began bolting beginner friendly crags too.

In the last five years, the growth of the sport has been particularly rapid. Major factors driving this have been the handful of people

“IN 2009 I WOULD VENTURE TO SAY THAT THERE WERE FEWER THAN 50 SPORT CLIMBS IN THE ENTIRE COUNTRY,” HE TELLS ME. “THE SCENE WAS SUPER SMALL.” SUMMER 2024 35

FEATURE A NEW CLIMBING SCENE IN ARMENIA

SO YOU WANT TO CLIMB IN ARMENIA? While route development in Armenia works best with some local contacts, you don’t need to know people to go and experience its world class climbing, incredible food and ancient culture. Here are some travel tips from our crew:

• Flights from Australia to Yerevan, Armenia typically stop in Dubai or Doha but there are many more flight options from Europe, including cheap fares from Italy with Wizz Air.

• Information on where to climb and topos can be found

on thecrag.com, uptherocks.com and (for the Dilijan area) projectarmenia.co.uk

• For sport climbing in an adventurous location on featured

limestone, head to the Dilijan area. The town is about an hour and a half from the capital, Yerevan. You can get there via bus from the Northern Bus Station for about $5 (see t-armenia. com for the timetable) or hire a private driver for about $60.

We recommend Dilijan Hiker’s Hostel in the town and wild camping near the crags to access the climbing. The easiest option is to hire a driver of a Villis (Soviet era 4WD) to take you and your gear up to the unofficial camping areas (~$120).

It is also possible to walk along the myriad jeep tracks (~4 hrs from Haghartsin Monastery for Otherside or ~3 hrs from Teghut village for Empress Slabs). August is the best month to avoid rain but be prepared for frequently changing weather conditions.

• A warmer and drier destination is Noravank, about two hours

LOUIS AFTER SUCCESSFULLY CLEARING THE CRUX ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MOUNTAIN THYME (3 PITCH, 6C+). BY ASH BRENNAN

Once the hard work was done, we had the enjoyable task of climbing all our routes. After focusing so hard on the bolting process, some of us were suddenly overcome with the fear of being able to send our creations. But it all went off without a hitch, and each team was able to bag the FA on the first lead attempt.

We then went on to climb and appreciate each other’s handiwork.

It was enjoyable for me to watch the other members of the crew try to on-sight the route I knew so well, being puzzled by sequences and working them out. Louis compared it to a horror movie, when you know the killer is in the house, but the character is blissfully unaware and going about their business.

I also had my turn to be the unwitting character, and thoroughly enjoyed the epic multis the others had created. Looking from these routes out into the valley, I was reminded of our altitude and remoteness. These were sport routes, but they had the feel of adventure.

Soon enough, it was time for us to pack up base camp and retreat to the valley. We talked a lot about what it would take to make the Dilijan cliffs a popular climbing destination. One thing is the number of routes on offer, which will likely come with time, but the main barriers surround access. The mountain roads have deteriorated to the point where they are passable only in the sturdiest of Soviet era vehicles, and there are no formed campsites with toileting facilities near the climbing areas. These issues will take effort and funds to change.

For now, there is a brand-new crag in a stunning mountainous location, with two single pitches, two multis, and plenty of space for more. The six of us are definitely biased, but when we climbed each other’s routes the phrase “All bangers, no flops” went around.

Someone will just have to go there to confirm or deny.

36 SUMMER 2024

south of Yerevan by car but also accessible by bus from Labour Square. One of the first areas to be developed, Noravank is characterised by roadside sport and multi-pitch climbing in an impressive red limestone gorge with a mixture of pockets, flakes and edges. Stay in a guesthouse in the nearby towns of Areni or Yeghegnadzor or camp in the clearings on the opposite side of the stream. On your way back to the capital, check out the climbing in Hell Canyon.

• Closer to the capital (30-45 min away), there are two climbing

areas known as Ohanavan and Aparan that are worth exploring with access being relatively easy. For Ohanavan, park at the town’s cemetery near the entrance to the gorge and walk down the trail via cairns for 15 minutes to a beautiful crag by a cold flowing river.

• While in Yerevan, check out Ver Var climbing gym, which is

scheduled to open in the next 12 months and will be the first public climbing gym in the country.

• Ask hostel operators for advice when making travel

arrangements, they will often be able to recommend people who can help.

• Download the app Yandex, the local equivalent of Uber, for getting around in cities and towns.

• Armenia is known for plentiful clean water. You'll find

constant flowing bubblers (pulpulaks) in cities and towns and many natural springs along popular trails. Use your common sense and filter when required.

• Wild camping is tolerated within reason, though it is a good

idea to ask permission where applicable. Land within national parks may be used by farmers, and they may be curious about what you’re up to, but in our experience everyone was very hospitable. You may just end up having coffee with them.

ASH BRENNAN has been an avid climber for the last seven years. He learnt to climb in the Blue Mountains, and has been involved in university outdoor clubs on two continents. He now lives and climbs in Scotland where he is a postgraduate student.

FEATURE

Riding the Camel

Photo: Simon Carter

WORDS BY MIKL LAW, IMAGES BY MIKL LAW AND SIMON CARTER

If you’re obsessed with climbing the longest line you can find—and with summer’s longer daylight this is the time to do it—Mikl has an idea for you. He takes us on a journey up The Camel, a 500 metre route he pioneered a few years back, as he considered what makes something an adventure.

“Adventure is just bad planning” – Roald Amundsen Mt Banks is the biggest wall in the Blue Mountains at 400 metres high (plus ledges) and over two kilometres long, but it is really a layercake of four separate cliffs separated by scrubby ledges. The chances of anything good going through all four layers is small; most routes follow some decent climbing for a bit and then scumble up gullies for the next four hours.

I had long wondered if there was a way of stringing together reasonable climbing all the way. Every time I got out into the Grose I’d sneak another peek at the big pile of choss and snap a few more pictures from different angles, in different light. The centre was the most consistent and had the best climbing. If you look enough times, you’ll fantasise a line of features and possibilities.

Ground up, on-sight climbing was how many of the great routes were done.

It suits some rock (good rock, with holds and cracks, under vertical) better than others (steep, blankish, or chossy). Another way of doing new routes is with lots of knowledge—photographs and binoculars to find the best climbing. Sometimes abseiling the route to find holds and other hidden features helps.

JEFF CRASS, MIKL LAW AND EUGENE MAC

38 SUMMER 2024

MIKL ON THE DEMOLITION PITCH, SPREADING HIS WEIGHT. BETWEEN FIVE POINTS OF CONTACT (BELLY INCLUDED).

PHOTO BY SIMON CARTER.

SUMMER 2024 39

FEATURE RIDING THE CAMEL

The ground-up approach optimises the adventure. Inspection optimises the climbing. Both methods are good, but offer very different experiences. Two very different approaches were taken in Mt Banks on the original route—cleverly named “Original Route”—a grade 14 climbed in 1953 by Russ Kippax, Dave Roots, Enn Trupold and Owen Llewellyn and The Camel (20) which I climbed with Jeffrey Crass and Eugene Mak in 2018.

Original Route was an adventure with primitive gear and a lot of walking. It required multiple attempts, with a two to three hour approach from Perry’s Lookdown. And the same walk out for each failed attempt. Gear was limited to a few slings and pitons. As they only had hemp ropes and waist belays the leader never fell. And if they did fall, they didn’t survive to talk about it. And all this occurred on loose dirty rock. where scrub and trees are a bonus as they were often the only runners.

Each attempt was a very long day, though you could pre-order a taxi to wait for you at Perry’s Lookdown for 16 shillings, which would wait if the driver saw your lights coming up the hill. But, as Bryden Allen wrote in The Rockclimbs of NSW (1963), “One should be well acquainted with the departure time of the last train.”

With no gear for belays or runners, the chance of certain death for the whole party stopped attempts at a bulge above the fourth belay.

Finally, the discovery of the double bum belay (or double arsehole belay, as Russ Kippax called it) made the steep pitch 5 possible.

The first ascent was made in time for Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953 (just like Everest!). There were two bivouacs on big ledges; hauling the gear would have just added to the epic.

By comparison, the route we climbed in 2018 wasn’t an adventure, we had many photos from different angles that we’d pored over, and we inspected a lot of the climbing beforehand. All with the goal of finding an okay route (fair rock, climbing, and protection) up the wall without grinding to a halt in choss and running for the nearest gully.

For a first look at the wall I went out with Jeff and, helped by a lot of photos from the other side of the valley, found the little chimney

I KEPT FORGETTING HOW HUGE THE PLACE WAS — WHAT LOOK LIKE TINY CHIPS OF INSIGNIFICANCE ARE ACTUALLY 100 METRE SUPERCRAGS.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THE MIDDLE TWO KILOMETERS OF MOUNT BANKS; EUGENE ON PITCH 9, THE 11 O’CLOCK PITCH, PHOTO BY SIMON CARTER; GAZING ACROSS THE VALLEY, PHOTO BY SIMON CARTER.

40 SUMMER 2024

ISSUE 49 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JEFF HANGING OUT AT THE START OF PITCH 10, WITH THE BIG CHOSS CORNER IN THE BACKGROUND; A GRIM SELFIE OF MIKL, WITH EUGENE STARTING PITCH 16; STARTING UP PITCH 6, THE START OF THE IMAGINATIVELY NAMED BIG CHOSS CORNER; STARTING UP PITCH 10, THE DEMOLITION PITCH, PHOTO BY SIMON CARTER.

that gives access down to the first ledge. We walked along this, surrounded by walls of rock and greenery till we got to Original Route (about an hour all up). I kept forgetting how huge the place was—what look like tiny chips of insignificance are actually 100 metre supercrags.

I decided to ”run up” Original route (pitch four, from the first ledge) but it was yukky (with a pack on) and unprotected with flaky rock. A big issue with these old routes is the imminence of certain death, or at least a long and painful crawl out with broken bits. We explored further, stumbling across the bizarre bivvy hut that was built in the 50s as a base for further explorations on the “biggest wall in Australia”. It is built in a 1.5 metre high slot and is super protected from weather by a huge roof above. But it has no water, and is a stiff half hour bush bash from Original Route.

when surrounded by loose rock) and then simul-seconding (on new routes I never want to second on a skinny rope). The next few pitches were black slabs to a huge ledge system, we scrambled up to the base of the Big Choss Corner.

The left wall of the choss corner is a hard fused slip-plane with little sloping holds and a general slickness about it. The right wall is glorious juggy choss choss choss. The climbing was easy but it was hard to satisfy the “three pieces between me and an ambulance” dictum. I belayed at 30 metres (having used up all my gear); the corner above was a sandy mess for a while so Eugene went onto the left wall then back into the corner to belay.

THE CLIMBING WAS EASY BUT IT WAS HARD TO SATISFY THE “THREE PIECES BETWEEN ME AND AN AMBULANCE” DICTUM.

Further right we got to the 100 metre high “Big Choss Corner” that runs between the first and second ledges. It was big, it was chossy. But it looked like okay climbing. We retreated back along the ledges with an idea of how big this place is. We wanted a trad route with a few bolts where needed (“Cosmic County Trad”) with trees or bolted belays (for retreat, and to limit the rack size needed).

After retirement, a surprise 60th birthday party, and alcohol poisoning, the temperature dropped and so climbing was ON! Eugene Mac joined our weird little choss cosplay group, we rode around the back of Mt Banks and rapped down the second then first cliffs. I stepped on a very large, very loose block near the top of the first tier and it rumbled down, exploded, and marked EVERY hold on the first 120 metres of black slab.

The slabs were good climbing on rippled black rock, a bit like the Grey Slab at Shipley Upper, for those familiar with the Blue Mountains. We were leading on twin singles (very heavy, very safe

Then (the worst pitch on the route) we walked/ traversed/crawled left to a cave belay and then started up the long pitch nine above. A full rope length pitch is always fun, and the pitch gets steeper and easier as you go, but the weight from two single ropes (I’m a scared old guy) makes it a special type of workout. It finishes in a thin corner which is fortunately six grades easier than it looks, then a little traverse to a cool perch above the sucking void.

Eugene led the demolition pitch (P10) up the erosion groove above; every hold we grabbed exploded. We arrived at the second ledge having climbed about half the route in six hours. There were ten pitches, mostly grade 16-18. The top half of the route remained, but Blue Mountains winter puts a chill on any plans, particularly if the wind rises above a gentle breeze.

Just a few days after this I got a diagnosis of cancer. I assumed I'd die in surgery, so focused on fixing the house and writing wills.

It all went well, but I had to wait to heal up. A few months later I came back with Jeff and (with a bit of sand and scrabbling of feet) we climbed the top half of the route.

We waited for work and weather to align and soon Eugene and SUMMER 2024 41

FEATURE RIDING THE CAMEL

JEFF WALKING ON THE FIRST LEDGE NEAR ORIGINAL ROUTE

IRONSTONE WAVES SHOWING THE WAY ON PITCH 18

I headed out to climb the entire route. We dropped a bike at the Mt Banks car park and went down Pierces Pass at 6am, which was probably too late (with two cars you can go down Perrys Lookdown and save an hour of walking). I always forget how far it is down the river to Little Bluegum Forest. We crossed the river when we could see the Big Choss Corner, and thrashed through thick scrub uphill for two minutes before traversing to the ridgeline which was clear, and started climbing before 9am.

The last pitch is up the basalt finger crack which is five minutes walk away, on the way to the summit. It’s a basalt buttress with a fading finger crack, which isn’t really part of the line, a good 150 metres to the left, and on another cliffline. But it seems strangely fitting as part of the route. And there is no other reason to be out there.

Nice frictional rock, but there are many souvenir holds available.

Just to make this pitch less optional, we called it Pitch 20, another sandbaggy 17.

The first 100 metres is fast slab climbing on perfect black rock to scrubby ledge number one. Then we started up the Big Choss Corner, which seemed a lot nicer this time. Eugene got pitch nine (AKA the 11 o’clock pitch as it heads in that direction AND you need to be on it before 11am). It’s quite special; there aren’t many 50 metre trad pitches in the mountains. I wobbled up the demolition pitch and we had a break on ledge number two at noon then, walked left to the dirty pitch 11 which was still shedding sand as we climbed.

Commuting to work in Sydney over the years I could often see the double humped profile of Mt Banks and so I called the route The Camel (20) in honour of those hours spent daydreaming and commuting. Of the 20 pitches, five are easy and the rest are mostly (hard, thrutchy, traddy, or loose) 17 or 18 (definitely not Bunny Bucket Buttress territory, for those familiar with the Pierces Pass classic). It uses a moderate rack: most of the belays are trees or bolts, which requires less gear left for the end of a pitch, and makes retreat a bit less epic. More than half the pitches are quite nice. It’s pretty easy to do in a day; hauling bivvy gear would be hideous.

Long cool days (maybe October or November) would be best as sun hits after 2pm in summer, and not much at all in winter.

THERE ARE POSSIBLE LINES EVERYWHERE, BUT THEY DON’T LEAD TO FURTHER GOOD CLIMBING.

A tree at the base of the next corner was covered with angry little black ants that have previously attacked me, so I was carrying small cams and an Epi-pen as I bridged around it and headed up a blank corner. The next pitch is a genuine zero star special of ironstone jugs, but the top improves. After this, a long crumbly slab (P14) has a few desperate moves where you explore the frictional properties of sandy rock, followed by a pitch up an exposed ridge to the third ledge.

There are possible lines everywhere, but they don’t lead to further good climbing. We walked left to a smooth corner crack (P16) which has genuine flare and offwidth sections; whichever way you’re not facing looks more appealing, so Eugene rotated his way up.

After an easy gully, the left wall of the final corners (P18) has twisted ironstone, strange jugs, and a wobbling mantle above a sling runner.

The last corner pitch (P19) has an odd traverse across the void (past a genuine basalt chockstone fallen down from above) leading to a punchy move up a finger crack on the right wall, then an awkward offwidth crack system to the top.

42 SUMMER 2024

So, the adventurous Original Route isn’t very good (but I still want to climb it one day) while the non-adventurous route that we called The Camel is quite a good (but much longer) day out. If we’d tried to climb The Camel ground up we would have stopped when the big choss corner got too chossy, about a third of the way up the cliff, and we would never have headed up the long blank wall of pitch nine without inspection. You can have a great adventurous day on the first ascent, but make a poor quality route that won’t be repeated, or find the best quality route up the feature. I think that four repeats in five years is pretty good.

MIKL LAW is an old climber who was introduced to climbing in 1970, and introduced to fear in the early 90s.

He still faffs around on rocks and thinks he’s cool.

REST BETTER. PLAY BETTER.

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FEATURE

PETE BOVINO STYLING UP THE CLASSIC SPLITTER RAMADAN, GRADE 19, IN BEN LOMOND, TASMANIA

44 SUMMER 2024

ISSUE 49 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

WHY CLIMB? WORDS MAT YOUNG

Mat has scaled everything from plastic in a gym to walls of ice in New Zealand. He reflects on what drew him into the sport he loves, and what keeps him exploring, learning and pushing in the world of climbing.

I’m climbing a route that I know nothing about, except that it has bolts and looks doable, wracked with uncertainty, nervous sweat beads on my forehead. This is one of my first outdoor climbing experiences…

I sit at the top of a 300 metre wall in the Blue Mountains feeling accomplished and relieved, a few years in. I think I know what I’m doing now…

I accelerate, tumbling towards the ground, my gear has pulled, as I eyeball the rocks that I’m about to land on I have time to think, “This is broken bones…”

I’m flowing up a huge crack system in Buffalo Gorge, for five hours we flawlessly swing leads, locked in a flow state, now I’m climbing…

I’m sitting on the summit of Mt Aspiring waiting to feel something, I’ve just lead the crux, a pitch of beautiful blue ice with huge exposure, alpine climbing is where I belong…

I tiptoe across a tiny ledge, just below 4000m, deep in the Wind River Range, my cheek presses against cool granite, below my heels yawns the void. I pause and smile, “This is one of the wildest positions I have ever been in while climbing...”

THE JOURNEY These moments, accumulated over 15 years, combine to highlight the incredible journey that climbing can take you on. Climbing has been many things to me over the years.

When I first started climbing it was all about conquering fear, but these days it’s a vehicle for exploring wild places and creating experiences that my partners and I will remember forever. It’s no longer purely about going out and getting scared—it has evolved into a lifestyle and a way of being.

I don’t climb particularly hard, nor do I climb particularly fast.

Nothing I do is anywhere near world class or cutting edge.

I’m a middling climber with average footwork and an okay head game. Even so, I often struggle to commit to challenging onsights unless my head is fully in it, and I regularly have to check myself when I lament how much I suck. Twice in my climbing journey have I reached a semi-consistent level, around the mid 20s, and both times I have injured fingers. The most recent time this happened I could have cried, I thought I’d finally found the recipe that was going to see me climbing at the level that I want, then snap!

MAT CLIMBING THE MOAI, PHOTO BY LIV GROVER-JOHNSON

SUMMER 2024 45

FEATURE WHY CLIMB?

BIVVY AT WETA PROWL, NZ

DANIEL MILA APPROACHING TOCLLARAJU

CLIMBING IS A JOURNEY. BECAUSE YOU’VE NEVER MADE IT, YOU’RE NEVER DONE. YOU MAY ACHIEVE YOUR GOALS OR YOU MAY FAIL MISERABLY, BUT THERE IS ALWAYS ANOTHER ROUTE, ANOTHER CHALLENGE, SOMEWHERE NEW TO EXPLORE OR THAT NEXT GREAT PARTNERSHIP. I’ve been climbing regularly for 15 years and what I call ”seriously” since 2019. My journey has taken me through the spectrum: gym bouldering, long sport climbs, adventurous trad lines, aid climbing, high altitude and ice and mixed climbing.

I’ve done it all and what I’ve learnt about climbing over the years is: Climbing is a journey. Because you’ve never made it, you’re never done. You may achieve your goals or you may fail miserably, but there is always another route, another challenge, somewhere new to explore or that next great partnership. In my mind, this constant evolution is what makes being a climber so worthwhile, whatever your strengths or your desired challenge there is always a path forward, or further down the rabbit hole.

Maybe it sounds obvious or cliché, but like many people I found something in climbing that I can’t get anywhere else. It’s an avenue for growth that allows me to explore wild places while I gain a deeper understanding of who I am. For me it is all about pursuing climbs that challenge and inspire me. If climbing harder and harder grades was the only way to do this then climbing would have lost its appeal a long time ago, because no matter how inspiring I find a route, if it’s above a certain grade I’m probably never going to manage it, and that’s okay.

management, your ability to read terrain, gear selection, anchor building, versatility and boldness. It takes more than strong fingers to be a good climber.

It's interesting to reflect on how much our perspective can change over the years. When I first got started, at the tender age of 19, my buddy Rob and I were full of bravado. We had made our way to the base of Mt Tibrogrargan with our brand-new rope, some quickdraws and a couple of carabiners. Fresh off a Learn to Lead course at the local gym we didn’t even have a guidebook, we just walked along the base of the wall until we saw bolts and some rock that looked climbable. In those early days everything felt death defying, probably because it was. We were figuring out our multipitch systems on the fly and the only anchor I knew how to build was a sliding x.

THE ADVENTURE The pursuit of numbers has never made me enjoy climbing more, in fact it’s usually had the opposite effect. So instead of pure difficulty I challenge myself in other ways. I choose more adventurous routes, longer routes, routes at higher altitudes, routes with ice and snow. Experience has taught me that there are expressions of climbing skill other than your max grade, things like: efficiency, risk 46 SUMMER 2024

A SELFIE IN THE EASTERN SIERRA

ISSUE 49 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

@ALPINEADAMM ON THE TRAVERSE PITCH, HOTEL CALIFORNIA, 22, PIERCES PASS, BLUE MOUNTAINS.

Learning a new style of climbing is humbling, and regardless of your experience or ability level, often feels like starting back at zero. Whether it’s your first multipitch or your first trad lead these are daunting steps to take—but nowhere is the step larger than beginning your alpine climbing journey.

Arriving at the crag for your first day trying a completely new discipline of climbing is a bit like the first day of school. You ask yourself questions like: What clothes should I wear? What gear should I take? What should I have on my harness?

The desire to climb mountains comes from somewhere deep inside me, I can’t explain it, but it’s always been there. It was inevitable that one day I would take the leap. As an experienced trad climber, I hoped my fundamentals would see me through it safely. But with so many unknowns, including the added concern of avalanches, it was a steep learning curve.

On a clear, winter day two years ago I found myself skinning across a frozen lake, breath fogging the in air, ahead of me, glinting in the sun, huge chandeliers of ice cascaded down from the side of the mountain: I had no idea what this was going to feel like. Two days before, I’d been sweating in Brisbane, now I was traversing a frozen lake with ice axes strapped to my back, wearing three layers.

As I quested up the shining formations, swinging my tools into ice for the first time, it was love at first stick. I’m certain I was over-gripping and my technique was sloppy, but as I stemmed up a corner, kicking in my front points and searching for small concavities to aim my next swing, I was absolutely frothing. When I pulled over the final bulge of my first lead and built an anchor from ice screws, sunnies fogging, getting pelted with falling rime, I knew I was right where I needed to be. Ice climbing felt intuitive. Sure, all of my skills needed polishing, but the balance to stay on the wall and the confidence to climb above my protection were abilities I’d been honing for years.

As a climber I’ve always been drawn to more adventurous climbing, aesthetic routes on iconic formations. This gave me a strong foundation for alpine climbing, where you need to be comfortable

KATE TASKER ON MATTHES CREST IN THE SIERRA

with run-outs and no-fall terrain, have a good eye for protection, and get creative with anchors.

Towards the end of one climbing trip in New Zealand I had a revelation in the form of Weta Prowl, a 300-metre long alpine rock route in the Ben Ohau range. The route climbs Steeple Peak to an elevation of 2,207m, following the path of least resistance (least choss) up a broad slab before gaining the ridge and traversing to the summit. It’s a classic route, known for its atypically solid rock—as they say in New Zealand, “If you find a good hold, make sure you put it back.” Climbing Weta Prowl opened my eyes to a brandnew facet of climbing with little fear, precise movement, creative gear placements and anchor building, all in a wilderness setting, glorious.

Six months later one of my climbing partners suggested we go climb alpine rock in the US for a month. I was halfway through booking flights before she even finished the sentence. It was an incredible trip; we got mileage in Toulumne Meadows, working our way through the classics while we acclimatised in perfect weather.

We hiked between evergreens and whispering streams to access world class alpine granite and long adventure routes. We ventured deep into the Wind River Range, setting up basecamp amongst the wildflowers at 3000m. Here alpine starts are mandatory due to the looming threat of afternoon thunderstorms. A picture of the Cirque of Towers had been the inspiration for this entire trip and it didn’t disappoint; the wilderness feel, huge granite towers and bomber rock combine to create the stuff of dreams. Our experience on these routes cemented my love for alpine rock, first inspired by one random choss pile in NZ. I tell my stories with as much art and beauty as I can to do justice to the memories as I relive them. But it’s not all great weather and fun times. Sometimes the pursuit of inspiration can take you places you’d prefer to avoid. When I first began trad climbing I spent a lot of time at Frog Buttress in Queensland where I learnt to crack climb while I learnt to place gear. It felt desperate and every day I spent there required every ounce of focus and commitment I could muster. With this ”always pushing” mindset I eventually attempted SUMMER 2024 47

FEATURE WHY CLIMB?

CRADLE MOUNTAIN SKYLINE

HIPS IN, HEELS DOWN, BY JONNY HOPKINS

MISTAKES ARE NECESSARY LEARNING EXPERIENCES ALONG THE JOURNEY AND IF YOU CLIMB FOR LONG ENOUGH, YOU’RE GOING TO HAVE CLOSE CALLS. a route above my paygrade: I was stemming and laybacking my way up a thin corner, working hard but feeling in control. All of a sudden, my foot slipped. Even as I relaxed into the fall, waiting for my gear to catch me, I realised I was falling further than I should.

I bounced off a small ledge and cartwheeled into the jagged rocks below where the impact drove the wind from my lungs in one of those agonised involuntary groans.

Even from a few metres up you hit the ground HARD. An experience like that takes some coming back from. Learning to trust your judgment again after making a potentially life altering blunder is not an easy process. Overcoming the doubt and renewed fear took a lot of mileage. It could have stopped me in my tracks; instead it made me a more mature climber.

Mistakes are necessary learning experiences along the journey and if you climb for long enough, you’re going to have close calls.

I choose to hold onto each one, believing that they keep me safe.

Despite being formative, this kind of incident is rare, and every cautionary tale is vastly outnumbered by days of glory. Days where we took a chance on the weather and it paid off or days where my partners and I were so locked in that we flowed together for hours.

Those days make the injuries and near misses worth it.

THE CONNECTION One of my most intense experiences of flow state and synchronisation with a partner was in Buffalo Gorge. We were halfway through a four-week climbing trip, during which we climbed dozens of trad routes all along the east coast. Feeling some trepidation, we marched down into the gorge with our quad rack and started up Where Angels Fear to Tread. As we climbed, we were locked in on a level that I have experienced only a few times since.

48 SUMMER 2024

I realised it halfway up the route and told myself to remain present, to just let it happen. I felt that if I acknowledged it or tried to hold onto it too tightly it would slip through my fingers, like trying to hold onto a dream. Years later the route appears as a blur of movement and joy in my mind, with just a few sections I can still picture with absolute clarity: pulling through a small overlap on fist jams, sitting on a bush in the warm sun while I belayed my partner, the big red nut I used in one of my anchors.

Climbing is many things to many people, but it is without a doubt a journey of self-discovery and a vehicle that can take us to incredible places. It can give us rich experiences that few people outside of our community could imagine and it creates unbreakable bonds with our partners, as we overcome fear, assess danger and revel in the beauty together.

Looking forward, I know I may never climb over grade 25 and I’ll certainly never complete my tick list. Regardless, I will continue following my inspiration wherever it takes me.

Maybe one day I’ll even learn to accept my shortcomings and simply be happy to climb, without the negative self-talk.

What’s next for me? Getting into some wild adventures on remote walls in Tassie this summer.

What’s next for you?

MAT YOUNG is a Tassie-based outdoor professional who runs, hikes, climbs and just generally froths the outdoors year round. Always in search of adventure buddies and a good story you can find him at @ mcyoungy

Fitzroy, K2, Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Kosciuszko, El Capitan, Ama Dablam, Annapurna, Everest, Minto Peak... ...where will you take it?

Photo: Harrison Candlin

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B O R N O F T H E M O U N TA I N S

MOUNTAINDESIGNS.COM

SUMMER 2024 49

ADVERTORIAL

IS YOUR RAIN JACKET KILLING THE PLANET? PATAGONIA HAS A SOLUTION

BY BROOKE NOLAN

As a company that equips people with the gear to get out in nature, Patagonia has a special perspective on the importance of the natural world and the need to protect it. So, when they realised that their waterproof gear contained harmful chemicals, it was the start of a journey to find a solution.

If you’re reading this, you probably like to get outside a bit. And sadly, with La Niña apparently making another appearance this summer, learning to live with the rain is something we’ve got to get used to. And that means finding a rain jacket you can trust as much as your belayer.

For many years Gore-Tex® and similar materials have been the go-to by brands when it comes to keeping us dry. But, although they’re undoubtedly good at their job, it turns out that their 5-star success had been coming at a cost – the environment. This is why Patagonia and Gore-Tex have been working together for nearly a decade to come up with better materials.

The problem with previous materials is that they contain polyfluorinated compounds (PFCs) AKA ‘forever chemicals’, named as such because they take thousands of years to break down.

There are over 14,000+ types of PFCs, plus a tonne of different head-scratching acronyms (PFAS, PFOS and PFOAs) that all mean a similar thing: fluorinated chemicals with slightly different molecular structures yet fairly similar functions.

Whatever you call them, they’ve all got one thing in common. They persist as hard as a stubborn climber on a crux, accumulating in water, soil, and even wildlife.

First produced in the 1950s, PFCs have now been found pretty much everywhere – even polar bears in the remotest part of Arctic Greenland and throughout Australia – and once they enter an ecosystem, they’re there to stay.

50 SUMMER 2024

WHAT THE HELL ARE PFCS ANYWAY? Imagine standing in the rain during a downpour with the water beading off your jacket. That waterproof membrane that’s keeping you dry is what’s filled with these chemicals. Oh, and they’re probably embedded in the synthetic material, too, just for good measure.

And they’re not just found in outdoor gear either, but also in food wrappers and coffee cups (to stop that flat white from leaking through), in non-stick pans, stain-resistant carpet, and fire extinguishing foam – something that’s been used extensively across Australia in our bushfire fighting efforts.

As well as harming the environment there is also growing evidence to suggest they’re harmful to our health too. In the US and Europe, PFOA and PFOS have been deemed ‘hazardous’, and connected to thyroid, kidney and reproductive issues plus testicular cancer.

Here in Australia, three major PFCs—PFOS, PFOA, and PFHx—are being phased out in various industries, and the Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS) has been publishing alerts on their risks to people and the environment since 2002.

In outdoor gear, the fact that PFCs are strongly bonded to the fabric means wearing it doesn’t usually pose a risk to human health. But it sure as hell impacts the environment.

For most outdoor gear, the manufacturing phase causes the most harm, with chemicals potentially contaminating water or food.

Then, during owner wear, these chemicals can enter streams, rivers

ISSUE 49 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

and other fragile environments.

hydrocarbons (think polymers and waxes) or silicones.

And finally, just when you think your innocuous little jacket can’t do any more damage, it makes its way to the trash, impacting soil and water quality around landfills.

And of course the PFC-free gear must pass the same rigorous tests as always, both in the field and the lab. The team uses the Bundesmann water permeability test, which assesses water resistance, as well as testing for chalking, seam slippage, abrasion issues and more. All that hard work and testing paid off and in 2023, all H₂No® Performance Standard Alpine rainwear became 100% PFC-free.

PATAGONIA’S JOURNEY TO A PFC FUTURE Although PFCs are clearly a bigger issue than just our rain jackets, we’ve got to start somewhere. And Patagonia has been at the forefront of trying to find a solution to keep us clean and dry – and protect the environment – for more years than this magazine has been in print. It’s been a long road and certainly not an easy one.

With one of their core values being to ‘Protect our home planet’, once the risks of PFCs were known by Patagonia, keeping them in their gear wasn’t an option. In 2006, they began research around PFOA-free Durable Water Resistant (DWR) material (the most prevalent fluorocarbon at the time) and started R&D trials with PFC-free DWR in 2015.

Over the past decade, Patagonia and Gore-Tex have worked to find a way to remove perfluorinated chemicals from the waterproof fabrics in their outerwear, without compromising performance. Today, some of Patagonia’s products now use Gore-Tex ePE membrane that is guaranteed to hold up to the harsh demands of outdoor, alpine and backcountry objectives, without PFCs. Patagonia introduced their first gear made with PFC-free DWR finishes in 2019, in 2021 a host of more technical PFC-free gear such as the Dual Aspect Jacket and Bibs, and Micro Puff® Storm were added to the list, and in 2022, every All Mountain Snow product and all non-waterproof Patagonia products with a DWR finish became 100% PFC-free in both fabric and trim.

The exact PFC-free chemistry for each product depends on material, product and intended purpose, although are typically based on

And now, as we head toward the end of 2024, Patagonia is on target to be totally PFC- and PFAS-free across all products by the end of the year. Well, except for fishing waders. But we don’t need them at the crag (although I guess it depends just how bad La Niña gets, huh?).

WHY SHOULD CLIMBERS CARE? Out in the wild, staying dry means staying warm, alert, and even alive. So, knowing that we can do our part for the planet whilst not compromising on quality is a big consideration. And although buying new gear is never cheap or easy, when it is time to invest in new wet-weather gear, making it PFC-free is a no-brainer.

We, as climbers, understand the value of nature on a deep level and are responsible for playing a part in protecting the landscapes we explore. Making the switch to PFC-free gear could be one of the easiest ways we can do that.

THREE TIPS FOR MAKING YOUR GEAR DO GOOD: 1. Don’t discard old gear with PFCs—let it live out its full lifespan to reduce waste.

2. When it’s time to buy new, choose gear that’s explicitly PFAS or PFC-free to avoid harmful ‘forever chemicals.

3. Extend the life of your gear by caring for it properly and re-waterproofing with PFC-free products like Storm Wash Eco. SUMMER 2024 51

MINDSET RESET

DRE AM BEL AY TIONSHIPS what makes a good climbing partner?

WITH DR KATE BAECHER Psychologist Kate Baecher examines what makes a climbing partnership work and how to find your perfect match.

With summer in full swing and holidays just around the corner…

You know what this means? More time than ever to spend long days scaling rocks, taking falls, getting sunburnt and generally just revelling in stoke.

Climbing partnerships are important. Yes, your partner quite literally keeps you alive; but above that good climbing partner can enhance your skills, make you laugh, cry with you, encourage you and teach you.

When we think about our climbing performance, we often think of training and time on rock as the cornerstone of our progression. But the truth is, our progress is often directly related to—and influenced by—our climbing partner.

So what makes for a good climbing partnership? Let’s explore this a little.

Think back to a belaytionship that accelerated your capability and love for climbing. What was it about this particular climbing partner that stood out for you? Was it their own climbing ability?

Was it their sense of humour? Was it their ability to take a soft catch? Or was it the fact that you always felt safe and supported when your rope was in their hands?

Compare this to one of your worst experiences of a belayer. What did you experience then? Did they lose focus? Shout aggressively at you? Spend more time talking to the others at the crag whilst belaying you, than actually concentrating on you and your needs on the climb?

• They have a similar schedule to you. This may sound a bit

superficial, but in reality, it’s super important given how busy our lives are these days. You may find the most amazing climbing partner, but if they are never free when you’re free, it makes regular sessions very difficult. As a result, the connection between the two of you may falter.

• Speaking of connection… (in a non-romantic sense here although it is entirely feasible for a romantic connection to develop out of a climbing partnership). Ensuring you can communicate easily and effectively with your climbing partner, and efficiently work together will allow you to balance fun and conversation with solid climbing. For the same reason, it often helps to climb with someone who has similar values to you, as well.

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MINDSET RESET

• They can motivate you to push yourself (safely) out of your

comfort zone. Sure, it's fantastic to enjoy spending the day at the crag with someone who is optimistic, supportive and kind… but a good climbing partner will also encourage you to step (safely) outside of your comfort zone; to stretch towards your goals, and will believe in you when at times you don’t believe in you. They will accept you having comfort days, but will also know when to nudge you to try something a little more complex or try one more move.

• They are good communicators. Often there are climbs where

the belayer cannot see you throughout the whole climb, so it’s best to know how to communicate with each other when you can’t. Sometimes you won’t even be able to hear each other.

The best thing to do is establish both verbal and non-verbal communication. Non-verbal communication can be things such as the belayer keeping a feel on the rope to notice when it is pulling or, weighted or loose. They are alert to your words, but also to your movements.

But communication is much more than simply commentary and commands. Offering some encouragement or feedback can significantly influence a climbing experience. Regular verbal supportive communication from a climbing partner shows that they are focused on you and watching your every move—it shows they are present with you. A good climbing partner might offer you suggestions for tough moves or areas where you are looking a bit shaky. They can offer encouragement when you might be able to do a difficult climb but feel scared about various moves. A good climbing partner will assure you that they are there and that they have you, and that might be all you need, even if you are scared and

unsure. Communication can develop trust, and trust is paramount in climbing relationships.

It’s true that finding a good climbing partner can be challenging.

The combination of busy schedules and mismatching communication styles mean that linking up with a consistent person isn’t always easy. Combine this with finding someone who climbs similar grades and whose company you enjoy, and sometimes it can seem near impossible. But it’s worth searching for because we all have good and bad days at the crag, and if you have a bad day and are with a good climbing partner, at the very least you’ll have been able to spend a day outside with a good friend and hopefully lots of banter and laughs.

So what’s the best way to find a good climbing partner?

Get out there and meet lots of climbers, think outdoor clubs, meetup groups, social media pages, or even good old fashioned chatting to people at the gym or the crag.

But the most important factor in finding a good climbing partner is simply to be one yourself.

DR KATE BAECHER is an accomplished Australian Clinical and Performance Psychologist, whose work specialises in the nexus between human behaviour and complex environments. Kate has a military and adventure background, with expertise in highperformance coaching, research and consulting on mental health risks in remote, wilderness, extreme and austere environments.

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UPDATES FROM ALTITUDE

THE TURQUOISE GODDESS Words by Alessandra Pepper

Aussie mountaineer Alessandra—previously better known as Allie—is attempting to climb the world’s 14 highest peaks without supplemental oxygen in record time. She reflects on her return to Cho Oyu, seven years after she first summited the mountain, and what she learned from the unexpected journey.

In May 2007 I experienced the magic of Cho Oyu—the Turquoise Goddess—8188m, when she granted me safe passage to stand on her summit, alone, without oxygen and return safely to my “normal life” again. Cho Oyu planted a seed, a dream inside me that would change my life and lead me on a journey that would be anything but normal. She gave me an idea, a challenge that would take me 16 years to rise to. What if I could climb all 14 of the world’s 8000m peaks without oxygen? Since that first 8000m summit I had an obsession to realise that dream.

I couldn’t comprehend at the time what it would take to complete the task she inspired in me. How much it would change every aspect of my life. To step up to the challenge has been a process of letting go of many aspects of myself. Uncovering the limiting beliefs that were subconsciously holding me back from realising my true potential has been a deep journey. Beliefs began to surface as I started to work with my life coach Freeman Fung at the beginning of last year. I had been scared to face my inner demons, to face my fears. To heal the trauma trapped in my mind and my body from my past. Climbing these mental mountains was harder than climbing the mountains themselves. The greatest reward from pursuing my inner journey has not only been mental fortitude, but it has also been achieving a state of freedom. I used to only feel free high up on a mountain, but now I have found freedom within me. I wonder if I had never met the Turquoise Goddess would I ever have embarked 56 SUMMER 2024

on this inner journey?

Obtaining a permit and a visa to climb an 8000er in Tibet is like winning the lottery these days. The company that I use to organise the logistics of my expeditions, Seven Summits Treks, applied for my partner Mikel and I to climb Cho Oyu while we were on K2. We had wanted permits for Shishapangma—the world’s 14th highest mountain at 8,027m—so it came as a surprise to us to discover they obtained permits for Cho Oyu instead. They chose to apply for Cho Oyu because at the time Shishapangma did not look like it would be open to foreign climbers. They could only apply for one permit, so chose the one more likely to be approved. My project is to complete all 14 peaks in record time, so I needed to climb Cho Oyu again.

Mikel had climbed Cho Oyu without oxygen in 2008 and had not been back to Tibet since then. In those days it was usual for Sherpa guides to climb without oxygen on the lower 8000m peaks.

Even though he is quite a few years younger than me, he has been climbing on the 8000ers for just as long and has guided a total of 25 8000m summits.

When we learned that we were heading back to Cho Oyu instead of going to Shishapangma, we were a little disappointed. I had wanted to climb an 8000er that I had not been to before. Mikel only has three summits left to climb to complete the 14 peaks, and Shishapangma is one of them. But I felt there must be a reason we

ISSUE 49 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

ALESSANDRA STRUGGLING IN THE HEAT ON THE WAY TO CAMP 1 ON CHO OYU AT 6,425 METRES. PHOTO BY MIKEL SHERPA

SUMMER 2024 57

UPDATES FROM ALTITUDE

58 SUMMER 2024

IMAGES SUPPLIED BY ALESSANDRA PEPPER

@whippaoutdoors

As soon as we crossed the border into Tibet from Nepal, we realised that we were not in the same Tibet we had experienced before. The roads are now sealed, which was an enormous surprise to us. In 2007 I remember driving on dirt roads and passing through dusty windswept villages with houses made from mud. In the middle of the Tibetan plateau things have changed. There are kilometres of power lines connecting towns and the towns now have lots of new construction going on. We were able to drive on a sealed road to just a few kilometres from Base Camp. It was surreal, I hardly recognised the place. We met with Tibetan locals in traditional dress who loaded our gear onto their yaks to transport it to the camp.

It wasn’t until we hiked through the blizzard towards the mountain that I felt like I was in Tibet again.

www.whippa.com.au

were to meet the Turquoise Goddess again at this time. Had she called me back to her?

It was 8 October and we were alone in our tent at 7530m on the side of the mountain. By chance or fate Nima, Mikel’s brother, had joined us for the summit push. We were the last team left to head to the summit. As I was getting ready to leave the tent I tested my battery powered boot warmers. To my shock and disbelief, the left one had broken. I adjusted my socks and decided to continue with my summit bid hoping it would not be a problem.

We left the tent at 11:55pm and both Nima and Mikel used oxygen. It was a very cold night, and unfortunately there was some wind. It was not very strong, but it was enough that the cold penetrated all my layers. I couldn’t feel my left foot, so I continually stopped to swing my leg and move my toes in the boot. We reached the summit plateau in the dark. I was praying for the sun to come out and bring some warmth. As we walked towards the crest of the plateau a beautiful orange glow filled the horizon. At 8:16am we reached the official Chinese summit point, the weather station. Thankfully the sky had turned blue and we had a view towards Everest and Lhotse. We continued on and 22 minutes later reached the commercial summit. It was one of the coldest summits I have experienced; it felt like a winter ascent. It was very difficult to film, to talk and to think.

All I wanted to do was to go down. It was hard to appreciate the moment.

As we descended from the plateau, the slope dropped away, and it opened up the most incredible view which we had not seen in the dark. We were able to make it down to the tent quite fast as we had the ropes to ourselves. For the first time on an 8000er I managed to descend to Base Camp from the summit, arriving at 7pm that evening. Without the help of Nima and Mikel this would have been impossible.

Unfortunately, I suffered the consequences of my broken boot heater. I have mild frostbite in my left toes which resulted in them going numb. They are slowly recovering and this week I have started to get sensation back.

So, what else did the Turquoise Goddess gift to me? I came back from the mountain feeling braver and more confident in my “normal life” which is something I had been searching for.

I am deeply grateful that she ignited that courage within me. I am yet to uncover all her gifts, but in time I am sure they will reveal themselves to me.

Every 8000m mountain that I had the honour of experiencing has a different powerful energy. They all have something to give us when we are open to receive. We don’t have to stand on their summit to absorb their transformational power. If you feel the call, to go, to see, to climb, to bask in their aweinspiring beauty, they have something to give you. Will you answer the call?

Follow ALESSANDRA on Instagram @alliepepperadventures and check out her live tracker to see her progress in real time.

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Mt Makalu 8485m without supplemental oxygen

TALE OF WHOA

WATCH YOUR HEAD! WORDS BY BRENDON FLANAGAN. IMAGES SUPPLIED BY NIKHILESH SHARMA

Climbing safety is everyone’s responsibility, and it’s something our editorial team are incredibly passionate about. Our Tale of Whoa column is our continued commitment to creating a culture of safety within our community. This edition we welcome guest contributor Brendon Flanagan, Sydney Operations Manager at the Australian School of Mountaineering, with a deep dive into the evolution and importance of helmets.

X-RAY OF THE BELAYER'S HEAD POST INJURY

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NIK'S T-SHIRT USED AS A WOUND DRESSING

Whether you're a seasoned dirtbag living out of a van or a weekend warrior hitting your favourite crags, every climber relies on equipment for protection. Depending on the chosen discipline, climbers will use specific gear tailored to their pursuit. Boulderers use aggressively designed shoes, crash pads, chalk buckets, and beanies. Sport climbers rely on fixed protection, matching quickdraws, the latest assisted braking device, and a quiver of shoes. Trad climbers, on the other hand, require a double set of cams, nuts, hexes, a pink tricam, dozens of alpine quickdraws, a plethora of slings, several bunches of locking and non-carabiners, and a pair of neutral shoes worn in through extensive climbing.

One piece of equipment that doesn’t see as much use as it could is the helmet. Equipment plays a crucial role in ensuring our safety as we engage in what could be considered one of the world's most high risk sports.

Throughout the years, climbers have recognised the need for equipment that can withstand the rigors of their environment.

To meet these demands, they have either modified existing products for climbing or developed entirely new innovations.

Every single piece of equipment we use has undergone stages of evolution, resulting in improvements that make them stronger, lighter, and more efficient.

THE POINT FROM WHERE THE ROCK FELL FROM 15 METRES ABOVE

In the past, climbers relied heavily on the reputation of well known companies or brands, such as Chouinard Equipment, to trust that their gear would perform as intended. However, as technology and access to information progressed, the demand for transparency in testing requirements and technical data grew. As a result, modern climbers are proactive and well informed, actively seeking data and facts about the gear they use. Outside of reputable websites such as RopeLab Online and YouTube Channel HowNOT2, our equipment must perform to the standards set out by the European Committee for Standardisation (CEN). These standards are known as the European Norm (EN). Since this article addresses the use of helmets, the relevant standard is EN 12492:2012, which covers safety requirements and test methods for mountaineering helmets.

Head injuries in climbing and abseiling often occur due to falling rocks, dropped equipment, navigating overhangs, or as a consequence of a fall. Recognising these risks, climbers and abseilers understand the importance of wearing helmets.

Nevertheless, despite this awareness, it remains common for many individuals to forgo wearing helmets. Australian climbing icon Glenn Tempest got straight to the point in his 1996 publication, where he stated the reluctance for wearing a helmet was due to vanity, because wearing a helmet is simply SUMMER 2024 61

TALE OF WHOA WATCH YOUR HEAD!

THE ROCK THAT CAUSED THE INJURY

A ROCK, WEIGHING APPROXIMATELY 15KG AND LARGER THAN A HUMAN HEAD, WAS DISLODGED AND FELL 15 METERS TO STRIKE THE BELAYER DIRECTLY ON THE HELMET. not “cool”. It’s unfortunate that there are climbers today who still prioritise appearance over safety.

In 2020, separate studies were carried out in the United Kingdom and the United States concerning the underutilisation of climbing helmets. These studies drew upon data and insights provided by the British Mountaineering Council and the American Alpine Club, respectively. Both studies concluded that comfort, functionality, and aesthetics were the reasons behind why climbers continue to shun helmets. Despite the prevalence of traumatic brain injuries and lacerations, these factors continue to influence their decision to forgo helmet use.

On November 10th, 2017, a climber from Sydney narrowly escaped a fatal accident whilst belaying at a newly developed Blue Mountains crag. A rock, weighing approximately 15kg and larger than a human head, was dislodged and fell 15 meters to strike the belayer directly on the helmet. Members of the group promptly responded by providing medical attention. The next step was to call emergency services, but as fate would have it there was no mobile reception. To make matters even worse, no one had an PLB. Two members of the group had to make the mad scramble back to the cars and drive for 30 minutes before they could finally make the call.

Emergency Services arrived by helicopter and were lowered to the scene before stabilising the belayer. Due to the surrounding terrain, the helicopter was unable to safely winch the belayer out. Instead, the climbers and medical responders had to stretcher him to a safer extraction point, which consumed valuable time. Once on board, the injured belayer was transported to Liverpool Hospital's Intensive Care Unit, where staff confirmed a traumatic brain injury. A large portion of his 62 SUMMER 2024

skull was removed, allowing doctors to perform the necessary surgery that saved his life. Now, take a moment to consider what the outcome might have been if he hadn't been wearing a helmet.

Countless climbers came to visit, seeing their friend lying in a coma, his head swollen to the size of a watermelon, unrecognisable to those who knew him. Kim was not the only victim. This traumatic sight would be etched in his friends' memories forever. If you've ever experienced a traumatic event, you know what I mean—the memory never fades. Whilst the helmet, a 1990’s Cassin hardshell, was far from aesthetically pleasing, it undoubtedly saved his life.

One of the victim’s friends who witnessed the accident and was a first responder, struggled to process what he had seen. To help manage his own trauma, he documented the incident in a journal, including the two days of climbing leading up to it.

This method of self help resulted in 45 pages of text and photos, but more importantly, it contained several lessons learned.

One of these lessons coincidentally echoed Glenn Tempest’s frustration: “Always, always wear a helmet” … “I don’t know why climbers don’t wear helmets” … “Maybe it’s a fashion statement or ignorance” … “I would rather be alive than cool.” These words of wisdom, born from a tragic event, will hopefully resonate with every climber who reads them.

Anecdotal summary? Always wear a helmet. Always pack a first aid kit. Always carry a registered EPIRB. And take a first aid course. This event should serve as a sobering reminder of the potential consequences of neglecting safety gear. As the great Chante Fisk once said, “Safety never takes a holiday!”

GALLERY

ADRIAN VANONI SNATCHING THE “BIRDBATH” ON PUNKS IN THE GYM (32), MT ARAPILES. PHOTO BY VICTORIA KOHNER-FLANAGAN.

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KYLE ADDY PLACING A SMALL RP AT THE HORIZONTAL “REST” BEFORE HEADING INTO THE CRUX ON HIS REDPOINT ATTEMPT OF QLD’S HARDEST PURE TRAD LINE, ‘BROWN CORDUROY TROUSERS’ AT FROG BUTTRESS IN QLD. PHOTO BY NATHAN MCNEIL, SET IN STONE PHOTOGRAPHY

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GALLERY

MICHELLE IVES ON THE TRAD ROUTE TENERE, 20, POINT PERPENDICULAR. IMAGE BY CLAIRE WILLIAMS.

66 SUMMER 2024

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SUMMER 2024 67

GEAR

2024 CLIMBERS’ GIFT GUIDE WITH SULE McCRAIES

FUJFUJ KEYCHAINS One of the best parts about being a climber is telling everyone that you’re a climber. If you’re really looking to step it up, you could have your keys tell people for you. Fujfuj is a company started by two Czech climbers with the sole purpose of making cute little climbing keychains featuring nuts, cams, and even little monkey fists—they are Czech climbers after all! You can also buy wooden cracks to place your keys in at home (depending on how bomber your house is).

A great little gift for climbers with keys RRP $12.95 + Available at Climbing Anchors

AEROPRESS FLOW CONTROL CAP This is maybe one of the most useful Aeropress accessories out there and yet there are still plenty of longtime Aeropress users (addicts) who don’t know it exists. This underrated little cap prevents liquid from dripping through the valve until you start plunging, eliminating the need for touch-and-go techniques like the inverted method. So if you know someone who’s still flipping and dripping their brews like a lunatic, maybe grab them a flow control cap. A great gift for Aeropress addicts RRP $49.95 Available at Aeropress.com.au and local stockists

TINDEQ PROGRESSOR 200 This is one for the true training nerds in your life, the kind of climbers obsessed with their finger strength stats who throw around terms like “overcoming isometric”. The Tindeq is a tiny Bluetooth strain-gauge/dynamometer/ crane scale that connects to an app on your phone and measures how much force is being applied (total or over time) by a muscle group of your choice (usually fingers/forearms). The app comes with a bunch of features to help train or assess max strength, endurance, and other geeky goodness. I have one attached to a mini hangboard that I use every time I train or warm up for climbing—they even double as a luggage weight scale for climbing trips. You could previously only get these direct from Norway, but thankfully they’re now available in Australia! A great gift for training nerds RRP $259.95 Available at Climbing Anchors 68 SUMMER 2024

ISSUE 49 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

BETA STICK ULTRA COMPACT Love them or hate them, stick clips (formerly known as cheat sticks) are incredibly convenient! Even more convenient is being able to chuck one in your bag or onto your harness without it getting in the way. The Ultra Compact model is a great option for an extremely portable stick clip (55cm collapsed) that’ll still reach most first bolts (238cm extended).

And for those wanting something longer, there’s also the Super Standard model (74-374cm).

A great gift for sport climbers RRP $129.95+ Available at your local stockist

Y&Y PLASFUN FIRST GLASSES Belay glasses, you don’t need them until your neck gets stuck at a right angle during some marathon belay in a bolted cave or super steep gym climb, by which point you probably just need a chiropractor. If you plan on submitting your belayer to such things, then at least have the decency to give them a pair of belay glasses first (unless you’re actually a chiropractor).

A great gift for sport/trad climbers with tweaky necks RRP $89.95 Available at Bogong and local stockists

SO ILL STEP RV Comfort and performance are usually at opposite ends of the spectrum when it comes to climbing shoes, which can be a tricky line to walk for newer climbers (and their sensitive little tootsies).

The Step is designed to meet you in the middle, offering a balance of performance and comfort for newer to intermediate climbers.

Featuring a stiff split sole design, downturned toe, generous rubber toe patch, and padded mesh tongue, all wrapped up in comfy vegan microsuede. A great gift for newer climbers RRP $189.95 Available at Climbing Anchors and local stockists

COTOPAXI HALCON CHALK BUCKET As climbing continues to grow, so does the risk of buying the same chalk bucket as someone else and ending up #twinning at the crag or gym— embarrassing! Cotopaxi is reducing that risk (and textile waste) with their Halcon chalk buckets. Each chalk bucket is one of a kind, made from deadstock fabric that might have otherwise ended up in landfill.

A great gift for saving your friend from a fashion faux pas RRP $49.99 Available at Cotopaxi.com.au and Wild Earth

SUMMER 2024 69

GEAR

TNF OFF WIDTH PANTS Do you know someone who’s always tearing holes in their climbing pants? Can you see the colour of their undies every time you’re on belay? Consider giving them the gift of garments. These pants are designed with durability in mind for climbers and mountaineers who spend all day in a harness, rubbing up against abrasive surfaces.

Featuring stretch woven fabric, taped seams, an internal waist cord, non-PFC DWR finish, and a very agreeable 295g weight. A great gift for climbers with holy trousers RRP $300 Available at Thenorthface.com.au and Wild Earth

ARC’TERYX VERTEX ALPINE Do you know someone who’s always on the hunt for a goldilocks shoe they can scramble, climb, and trail run in? Arc’teryx may have them covered. The Vertex Alpine blurs the lines between a trail running shoe and an approach shoe, balancing running performance with the stiffness needed to edge on techy terrain. They’ve even wrapped the sole in Vibram XS Flash 2, a rubber typically only used on climbing shoes, to keep things feeling nice and grippy when the approach starts to get a bit spicy. And at only 336g (per shoe) we think they deserve to be called ‘Alpine’. A great gift for running climbers (or climbing runners) RRP $300 Available at Arcteryx.com.au

PATAGONIA M10 STORM JACKET They say, “The more you know, the less you need”... but then I say, “I don’t know if it’s going to rain, I think I need a hardshell”. Regardless of what you say, carrying a lightweight shell is rarely a bad idea on big days out. This 3-layer alpine shell is designed for climbers moving light and fast in questionable conditions. Weighing in at just 310g for a 3-layer H2No performance shell with no PFCs/PFAS in the membranes, fabrics, or finish. It’s got a helmet-compatible hood, adjustable cuffs, a cinch-able hem, harness-friendly pockets, and a concealed RECCO® reflector in the hood. And, as always, it’s backed by Patagonia’s Ironclad Guarantee.

A great gift for the ‘light & fast’ crowd RRP $599.95 Available at Patagonia.com.au

LA SPORTIVA ONDRA COMP There are no prizes for guessing why it’s called the Ondra Comp. These shoes were designed in collaboration with the man himself in the lead-up to the 2024 Olympic Games. Adam wanted something soft enough to smear on volumes, but still allow him to stand on small slopey footholds, ”the ideal shoe for modern indoor bouldering”, and here it is. This is the first shoe to feature La Sportiva’s new SenseGrip technology, the secret sauce to Ondra’s new rubber-clad baby. These shoes won’t be for everyone, but if there’s someone in your life who won’t stop talking about these, you probably know what to get them. A great gift for die-hard Adam Ondra fans RRP $359.95 Available at your local stockist

MAMMUT 9.5 CRAG DRY ROPE Is your partner’s rope getting a bit long in the tooth and a bit short for the mega classics? Maybe now’s the time to put ol’ faithful to rest and crack open a fresh coil of rope. The 9.5 Crag Dry is an excellent option for those wanting a versatile rope that’s thin enough to handle redpoint attempts, but still durable enough for a bit of dogging. The dry finish also adds durability by repelling dirt and water (<1.5% in UIAA water absorption tests). It’s available in a range of lengths, and an alternative bi-pattern colour/design. A great gift for sport climbers RRP $399.95 + Available at Mammut ANZ, Wild Earth, and local stockists 70 SUMMER 2024

GEAR NEWS

MAMMUT CORE PROTECT TECHNOLOGY SIGNIFICANTLY INCREASING THE CUT RESISTANCE OF CLIMBING ROPES WORDS BY SULE McCRAIES Climbing ropes have come a long way in the last 70 years (since the invention of the Kernmantle construction). Still, despite the extremely high standard of modern climbing ropes, one problem has remained mostly unaddressed…cut resistance. Climbing ropes are surprisingly hard to cut when they’re not loaded (as anyone who’s trimmed their rope at the crag will know), but they become increasingly easy to cut once you load them. Even though the chances of a climbing rope breaking during normal use are statistically quite low, these accidents still occur - usually in alpine environments when a rope is loaded over a sharp edge (like during a fall over an arete). The German Alpine Association has documented 64 rope breaks over the last 60 years. This could even be a risk while sport climbing if perma-draws or fixed carabiners have developed a sharp enough groove. Regardless of the situation, loading a rope over a sharp edge can have potentially dire consequences. That’s why the Mammut team has spent the last twelve years developing and testing their Core Protect technology to ensure its performance in these types of scenarios…and they’re finally ready to bring it to market!

2% stretch (hence the name) making them unusable for lead climbing.

So obviously you want some combination of these materials to get the best of both worlds, but how do you incorporate super static aramid fibres into the rope without making it less dynamic? Mammut’s answer came in the form of a loosely braided weave of aramid and nylon fibres (a ‘hybrid yarn’) that sits between a standard Polyamide 6 sheath and core.

Loosely braiding the aramid yarn with extra length means it doesn’t interrupt the regular stretch of the rope during normal climbing, while the nylon parts of the hybrid yarn allow it to stretch and retract with the rope. If the sheath was ever cut on a sharp edge then the hybrid aramid sleeve would extend to its full length and protect the core (like a shield of armour). Mammut says this unique construction makes the Core Protect ropes feel and behave just like any of their standard ropes, apparently even their athletes were only able to tell the difference because of the colour. So exactly how cut-resistant is it?

For a more in-depth look at Mammut’s development process check out ‘The Last Unsolved Problem of Climbing Ropes’ by Hard Is Easy on YouTube.

THE TECHNOLOGY: Climbing ropes tend to be made from a type of nylon called ‘Polyamide 6’ (also called Nylon 6), used due to its excellent strength, dynamic properties, and abrasion resistance - but it has poor cut-resistance.

You’ll also come across hyperstatic ropes like the Petzl RAD line or Mammut Glacier Cord which are made from Dyneema (HMPE) and Aramid (aka Kevlar/Technora/Twaron). These are extremely strong and have excellent cut resistance, but next to no dynamic properties at just SUMMER 2024 71

GEAR NEWS

IMAGES: HARD IS EASY MAMMUT'S ROPE CUT TESTING RIG

MAMMUT'S ROPE TESTING RIG

THE CORE PROTECT 9.5 VS A STANDARD ROPE CONSTRUCTION

THE TEST:

THE RESULTS:

Over the years many rope manufacturers, testing labs, and other institutes (including the UIAA) have proposed a standardised testing method for measuring rope cut resistance, but none have been consistent enough (across multiple locations) to be accepted.

So instead, Mammut designed their own internal test to mimic a realistic fall scenario where a climber might fall and pendulum across a granite edge (like during a traverse). The test involved dropping an 80kg weight with the rope running across a 1-metre piece of granite, with either 90cm or 75cm of slack in the system. 90cm of slack for single ropes (like a 9.5mm Crag Dry), creating a factor 0.3 fall, or 75cm of slack for half/twin ropes, creating a factor 0.25 fall (only one strand was used for half/twin ropes). This test was perfect for Mammut to test and study how different ropes behaved when loaded over edges, but it wouldn’t be reproducible at other locations and wouldn’t be accepted as a standardised testing method (nor was it designed to be). These ropes have also undergone some real-world testing by Mammut’s athletes in places like the Swiss Alps and Patagonia (the ultimate testing ground for Alpine ropes).

Mammut used this test on a variety of their other ropes to see how different constructions and diameters would perform compared to the Core Protect ropes.

72 SUMMER 2024

For the 90cm test, both the 9.5 & 9.8 Crag Dry ropes failed/cut during testing, while the thicker 9.9 Crag Workhorse & 10.2 Crag Classic ropes failed/cut in 66% of the tests. The 9.5mm Core Protect rope consistently withstood the test, cutting through the sheath, but not the core.

For the 75cm test on half/twin ropes, both the 7.5 Alpine Sender & 8.0 Alpine Dry failed/cut during testing, while the 8.7 & 9.0 Alpine Sender Dry (triple certified) ropes failed/cut in 66% of the tests. The 8.0mm Alpine Core Protect Dry withstood the test, cutting through the sheath, but not the core.

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?: No climbing rope is 100% cut-proof, not even this one, which is why Mammut makes a point of mentioning that “any rope can break in exceptional circumstances and under exceptional influences”. I think it’s best to think of this rope more like having a parachute, rather than having wings (in other words, it’s an insurance policy). Now…I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the Edelrid Swift Pro Protect ropes (which launched a few years before this rope). The Pro Protect ropes also use Amarid for added cut resistance, but Edelrid instead chose to incorporate these fibres directly into the sheath. This difference in approach is no doubt a reflection of a difference in the design teams’ priorities and has inevitably resulted in two different ropes, with different constructions, and different sets of pros & cons. I’m yet to try a Core Protect rope (hopefully we’ll get to review one) but I’ve already heard/read that they do indeed feel and behave the same as a normal dynamic rope, which I think was exactly what Mammut was trying to achieve during their twelve year-long journey to releasing this product. Given this, I hope we see Core Protect technology incorporated into more of Mammut’s ropes in future -maybe one day it’ll be as common as dry treatment!

www.mammut1862.com.au

GEAR

FROM THE Field REVIEWS PETZL NEOX

SHORT TERM REVIEW

REVIEWER: SULE MCCRAIES

RRP: $294.95 Pros: • Belays very smoothly • Doesn’t require a specific technique to feed slack quickly • Comes in black • Cons: • More expensive than a GriGri • Clicking noises may annoy some users Best suited for: • Competent belayers doing mostly single-pitch sport/trad routes, who want a GriGri-type device (camassisted) that belays smoothly with a range of rope diameters and doesn’t require learning a special technique to feed slack quickly.

This is not a GriGri! It may look like a GriGri, but it’s not... The Neox is Petzl’s newest cam-assisted belay device, and although it looks suspiciously familiar it’s still not a GriGri. The GriGri has become an iconic belay device in climbing since its release 33 years ago, but not without criticism. The most common complaint you’ll hear is that belayers must learn/use a specific ‘thumb press’ technique when feeding slack quickly (or even slowly with some thicker ropes).

This means newer users tend to ‘short-rope’ their climber when trying to feed slack quickly—usually right when you’re cruxing out trying to clip! This is where the Neox comes in. Petzl’s intention with the Neox was to create a device that belays like an ATC but catches like a GriGri. So…does it?

FEATURES/DESIGN: The design is very similar to that of a GriGri, but instead of the fixed metal piece in the centre, there is a spinning wheel with 8 flat spots within its groove (technically making it a spinning octagon). This wheel (octagon) rotates freely while passing rope through the device, allowing you to feed slack extremely smoothly. If the climber falls or the rope is weighted, then the wheel is pushed up into a ‘blocking stop’ and stops spinning, causing the cam to pivot and pinch the rope, 74 SUMMER 2024

just like with a standard GriGri (provided you’re holding the brake rope). Everything else about the Neox is practically the same, apart from a few aesthetic differences. It has the same lever for lowering/descending, is still compatible with 8.5 to 11 mm dynamic single ropes, and still comes in classic Petzl orange (there is also a silver or black version).

One difference worth noting though is the weight. That spinning octagon adds around 62g, meaning the Neox weighs 237g (on our scales), compared to the 175g GriGri (and 200g GriGri+) – weight weenies be warned!

FUNCTION/USE CASE: So can we #FeelTheDifference as Petzl has put it? Yes, absolutely. If you compare feeding with a GriGri vs Neox, the Neox feels dramatically smoother…buttery even! This was even more noticeable with thicker ropes.

If you try yanking on the climber’s end you’ll also notice it takes a bit more force to make the Neox ‘lock up’. While belaying, the Neox lets you feed slack without needing to touch the device (without ‘thumb pressing’)...most of the time. It’s still possible to short-rope the climber if they yank on the rope hard enough or you get caught off guard while they’re clipping, so it’s not a substitute for poor belaying. Speaking of poor belaying, Petzl has really emphasised that you must always hold the brake side of the rope with the Neox (the same is true for any device). They even engraved this on the front of the device.

I suspect this is mostly for the European market since here people are taught to ‘never let go of the break rope’. Nevertheless, I wouldn’t recommend handing a Neox to someone unless you’re sure they’re a competent belayer. The Neox can also be used to top belay on a multi-pitch, though it wouldn’t be my first choice as I find the backfeeding of slack more annoying than with a GriGri (the same goes for top-roping). One interesting quirk we noticed was the clacking noise the Neox makes when taking up slack quickly or while the rope is weighted. Petzl says this noise is normal and is caused by rope tension making the wheel rub against the blocking stops. While it may be ‘normal’, this noise is a bit unsettling the first few times you hear it coming from your new $295 belay device, and could be annoying for some users.

FINAL THOUGHTS: I think Petzl has designed a great product with the Neox. The hard part of reviewing it has been trying to figure out who it’s best suited for. I’ve heard some people claim the Neox is a device for only experienced climbers and belayers, which I find a bit puzzling. I think most belayers who’ve spent enough time using a GriGri and mastered the ‘thumb press’ technique are comfortable enough doing it quickly that they rarely short-rope their climber. Climbers who use skinny ropes (≤9.1mm) also won’t feel as much of a need for the Neox, since skinny ropes tend to run quite smoothly through a GriGri anyway. I see the Neox being more appealing (and useful) for belayers who aren’t fluent with the GriGri ‘thumb press’ technique, but value its features as a cam-assisted device, or for those who use thicker ropes that tend to be a bit ‘sticky’ with a GriGri. Overall the Neox is a great device that does what it says on the packet.

My only real complaints were the clacking noises it can make, and the fact that it’s more expensive than a GriGri but less versatile.

Overall, I’d rate it 4 out of 5 blue offsets.

BETA & BREW

DEALING WITH DARK ROASTS SUMMER 2024 75

BETA & BREW DEALING WITH DARK ROASTS

The longer I’ve been a climber, the longer my warm-up routine has become, forever expanding to include more rehabbing, prehabbing, potentiating, and pretty much everything else except actual climbing. Naturally, the longer my warm-up routine gets, the earlier I have to wake up. And with an earlier wake-up comes the need to brew more coffee before my warmup...which leads to even earlier wake-up…and even more coffee.

Eventually, this cycle continues until I have to wake up a half hour before I go to bed so I still have enough time to send my warm-up before we head back to camp. Alternatively, you can just brew coffee while you do your warmup.

This recipe is adapted from one of my favourite international roasters, Sey Coffee in Brooklyn, New York. It’s all about getting the maximum results for minimum effort. The only hard thing about it is getting the grind right (but luckily you’ll have all day to do that).

BEST FOR: • •

Darker roasts Particularly old/stale beans

YOU’LL NEED: • • • • • • •

Aeropress and paper filters Flow Control Filter Cap (optional but recommended) 30g of coffee, ground quite coarse 90-120ml of hot-ish water (80C) Another 80-120ml of hot water (for diluting) A scale (necessary) A timer

- Sule (VL’s Resident Coffee & Gear Nerd)

METHOD: STEP 1.

BETA

This recipe uses between a 1:3 - 1:4 ratio of water to coffee, so however much coffee you plan to use (30g) you should use 3 or 4 times more water (90-120ml). You will also dilute it with hot water after brewing.

Tastes sour or boring?

• Grind finer • Use hotter water • Increase the ratio (try 1:4 or higher)

STEP 2.

Place 30g of coffee into your Aeropress and pour in your 80C hot water (90-120ml). Now stir vigorously for 10s and quickly insert the plunger about 1cm in. This creates a vacuum to stop the coffee from dripping through (not necessary with the Flow control cap).

Tastes bitter or ashy/roasty?

• Grind coarser • Use colder water • Lower the ratio (try 1:3 or lower) • Plunge

NOTE: Pour some cold water into your kettle after boiling to lower the temperature (aim for 80C if you have a thermometer…but who would?)

STEP 3.

After 50 seconds begin gently plunging through the liquid (this should take about 1 minute to complete).

STEP 4.

Dilute to taste with 80-120ml of hot water (start with 80ml).

If you’re not using 30g of coffee then adjust this accordingly.

NOTE: Don’t forget to give the coffee a little stir after diluting.

Not everything is meant to be saved, so if all else fails then add a few grains of salt to your coffee. This will help reduce the bitterness, just make sure to only add a tiny amount (0.3g) or else your coffee might taste shit and salty!

76 SUMMER 2024

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POETRY

Fairy Tales for Climbers

​W HITEWATER WALL, FREYCINET PENINSULA, TASMANIA

BY ADRIENNE EBERHARD

VL’s first published poem a couple of issues back received quite a positive response from readers! To continue the creativity, Adrienne shares a series of poems penned after a trip to Freycinet, climbing and camping with two of her sons and their partners.

BEOWULF All night wind tunnelled in treetops, clawing, a ghostly sky dragon, tremors shook tents, fabric cracking stirring campsite dust to fine rain; by day sky belled blue, sun warm balm on our backs as we abseiled in, a Rapunzel plait, like the prince lowered from the tower or knights descending to the dragon’s lair; beneath our feet sea churned its song, swelling, revealing a wall of stone hung with kelp and leather, until the ledge, inches above the sea, room for two, roping up with nuts, cams, jangling like armour, helmets on heads, feet in tight shoes, and I fed rope out, watching you reach beyond, stretch onto the face, contorting over flakes, bulges, leaving the rock pedestal, out to airy space, granite looming above, seamless, tiny nubbins, buttons for toes, edging sideways as hands reached around into darkness, blind in beating sun; beneath us ocean lathered as we inched up, rock full of unexpected holds until the final, steep corner like lions or gryphons looming over us, the crack a black line where our fingers clung, hearts bursting, blood zinging, final lunge and push to escape the void, to leave the sea, its tongue, its emerald scales, its white flash of tail, its swoop and talons, to roll over the edge onto sunbaked stones, a blessing, a tease, perverse pleasure; this place a portal to present tense: we sit here, heads between knees, lungs grasping air, staring at the horizon’s green curve, kiss of air and water, and know ourselves to be immortal –

IMAGE BY PATRICK EBERHARD

PRINCESSES RESCUING THEMSELVES for Evie and Lucy

Now the sea has risen, its hunger and bite edging at the cliffs, its surface broken.

We stand at the top, staring down, the rock sheer, then tumbling and rounded, bottom ledges slick with black water, the air chill through layers and thermals, we are poised like platform divers, harness, rack, ropes, and the drop beckons.

We peer to scope the route, as if we have guns, language stronger than confidence, barrage of courage perhaps, the desire for body and rock to connect, to stretch, sated on stone, this rock cold now, afternoon air leaching warmth and I send you down, your trust, heartbreaking, your readiness to follow instructions, blind faith.

Already I know our time is up, waves building, shadows piling, rope pulled sideways in a redirection you have no idea how to navigate and yet I let you go, I let you go, your acquiescence a stab somewhere deep inside, so when you reach the closest ledge, I call, check-in, and you tell me you are terrified, rope pulling you off course, wall disappearing under your feet, the water swirling below, endless churning. I call to our companion and she launches from the safety of her ledge up to you, long, black legs stretching, lifting, the rope a scarf around her neck; you stand still as instructed, frozen with fear and cold.

I watch two girls below me, your pale faces like upturned flowers brushed by salty breeze, perched on a cliff edge on dusk, sea rising.

When she reaches you, your composure is absolute, you scramble as requested up the rock ramp as I direct the rope.

We are so high here, so alone here, you seem so tranquil despite your fear, and she who has just soloed 15 metres to reach you is nonchalant, and I am astonished at this gift of young women who love the world as I do, whose fear is not a fortress, but a freedom.

TALISMAN

for Rolan and Byron You tell me later a whale rose beneath you on the wall, its mouth festooned with bumps, a ballooning galleon, as you watched transfixed – your boy climbing, this creature, the fall of water like a veil as it breached, a silvery caul merging sky with ocean, this cliff, a precious talisman.

You tell me later a whale rose beneath you on the wall.

You pushed this in your pocket, warm as skin, memory-store holding granite nubbins, moonrind, she-oaks, wind, cetaceans, as you watched transfixed – your boy climbing, this creature, the fall of rope at your feet, an anchor, a safety line, the pull of fathers and sons through time and space, animal/human.

You tell me later a whale rose beneath you on the wall and you were astonished to see it turn and twist, bare the pearlwhite of its stomach, embracing Heaven, you felt it loom as you watched transfixed – your boy climbing, this creature, the fall a possibility, pendulum swing over the zawn, our boy lost at the end of a rope, deep in ocean’s womb; you tell me later a whale rose beneath you on the wall as you watched transfixed – your boy climbing, this creature, the fall.

ADRIENNE EBERHARD first climbed at Freycinet over 40 years ago. She writes poetry, short fiction and essays, and lives at Tinderbox on the D'Entrecasteaux Channel in Tasmania.

SUMMER 2024 81

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