SUMMER 2015
#15 • AU/NZ
VERTICAL LIFE
VERTICAL LIFE SUMMER 2015 Vertical Life is published quarterly Winter / Spring / Summer / Autumn
Credits image Julian Goad on Inspector Gadget (24), The Tower, the Grampians. Simon Madden
Editorial correspondence 10 Evans Street, Anglesea, Victoria, 3230 Telephone 0417 295 495
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Founders Simon Madden + Ross Taylor + Patrick Kinsella + Chris Ord + Terry Wogan + Heidi & Peter Hibberd
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Publishers Adventure Types 10 Evans Street, Anglesea, Victoria, 3230
Sea to Summit www.seatosummit.com.au
AU Editors
The North Face www.thenorthface.com.au
Simon Madden + Ross Taylor
Spelean www.spelean.com.au
simon@adventuretypes.com ross@adventuretypes.com
NZ Editor Tom Hoyle
gomezthecosmonaut@gmail.com
VISIT US ONLINE
Associate Editors Pat Kinsella + Chris Ord Design Jess van de Vlierd
www.verticallifemag.com.au
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Senior contributors Duncan Brown, Andrea Hah, Michael Meadows, Kamil Sustiak, Denby Weller
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Contributing writers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Ben Buckland, Amanda Cossey, Lee Cossey, Mat Farrell, Dave Jones, Gemma Woldendorp
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Photography Simon Bischoff, Brisbane Bushwalkers collection Lee Cossey, Mat Farrell, Nick Fletcher, Mary Gabrieli, Kerrin Gale, Simon Madden, Cameron Maier, Heikki Toivanen, James O’Neil, John Palmer, Paul Caffin collection, Corey Rich/Red Bull Content Pool, Natasha Sebire, Ross Taylor, Ted Cais collection, Mark Watson, Gemma Woldendorp Cover Image Jorg Verhoeven on Ben Lomond’s hardest route, The Wizard (28), Tasmania. Simon Bischoff
Disclaimer
Rockclimbing and other activities described in this magazine can carry significant risk of injury or death. Undertake any rockclimbing or other outdoors activity only with proper instruction, supervision, equipment and training. The publisher and its servants and agents have taken all reasonable care to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication and the expertise of its writers. Any reader attempting any of the activities described in this publication does so at their own risk. Neither the publisher nor any of its servants or agents will be held liable for any loss or injury or damage resulting from any attempt to perform any of the activities described in this publication. All descriptive and visual directions are a general guide only and not to be used as a sole source of information. Happy climbing.
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CONTENTS 10. Oz Editorial
64. folio
The boom of climbing
Kamil Sustiak
12. Nz Editorial
68. feature
Adios Gomez
Ben Buckland on Fred Nicole
14. Folio
74. folio
22
Kerrin Gale
18. folio John Palmer
A rescue that wasn't
20. column
52
David Lama in Lebanon
78. column Denby Weller’s leap of faith
On the rocks in Siberia
80. history
Andrea Hah loses it
Michael Meadows’ Australian climbing history centre
22. feature
84. training
Mat Farrell on a rescue that wasn’t
Duncan Brown on pyramids
38. folio
88. New Gear
James O’Neil
Vertical Life worships the false God of Consumption
92. Obituary
40. column
44
Nutrition advice from Amanda Cossey
44. interview Vertical Life speaks to Nalle Hukkataival
52. feature
Nalle Hukkataival
Lucky Chance
68
98. Interview Dave Jones
102. Precious Object
Fred Nicole
Lee Cossey’s ‘HB’ cam
Gemma Woldendorp on the rocks in Siberia
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Doug McConnell and Simon Parsons on the approach to Yamnuska, Rocky Mountains, Canada. 14
Doug McConnell (belayed by Simon Parsons) making the fifth ascent of Yamnuska’s hardest route, Blue Jeans (29). Both images by Kerrin Gales/@Weebitwindy 15
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TA R A D AV I D S O N
BD Athlete Tom O’Halloran on Tucker Time, Blue Mountains.
BlackDiamondEquipment.com
seatosummitdistribution.com.au enquiries@seatosummit.com.au
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