Baolis of Delhi

Baolis of Delhi ADITYA MEHTA

PUBLISHER Grapevine Worldwide Pvt. Lrd. Publishers of Travel Secrets Magazine Year of Publication: 2014 M.R.P. 750 Rs.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Delhi is my first love , having captured it in different seasons, lights through my camera and sketches, I believe it is an eternal city with a soul .

I understood these monuements, city planning , art , culture with experts and masters like Mr. Sohail Hashmi, Mrs. Narayni Gupta maam and Mrs. Annabel Lopez.

My photographs, sketches and research on the seven cities of Delhi and other topics have been exhibited and appreciated by many celebrated experts. This book 'Baoli's of Delhi' is my hard work and research of last 2 years mainly on stepwells of Delhi .

I have worked with several groups and agencies and want to thank all of them. I am very thankful to Mr. Vasant Kumar Swarankar (Superintending Archaelogist ASI- Archaeological Survey of India, Delhi Circle) for guiding me through plans and old pictures of the baolis. I am also thankful to Annabel Lopez (Project Coodinator, INTACH- Indian National Trust For Art and Cultural Heritage, Delhi Chapter) for giving me a chance to do my summer internship and to work with Delhi Chapter at being a part of Google Cultural Institute Project .

I am thankful to my father Mr Sandeep Mehta, an architect, for helping me discover my love for art and architecture. Through my travels around the world with him, I have photographed and tried to capture the essence of each city with my camera. My huge collection of pictures, sketches, artifacts, books are all not just one days collection , but a result of the many exciting and educational years spent growing up with him.

I am also gratefull to my school Principal, Dr. D.R. Saini and my school teachers for promoting and encouraging me all these years.

Photographs, sketches and text by Aditya Mehta

MAP SHOWING THE VARIOUS BAOLIS IN DELHI

CO N T E N T INDEX PAGE

Introduction.........................................Pg 1 Ugrasen ki Baoli.................................Pg 5 Rajon ki Baoli.....................................Pg 9 Gandhak ki Baoli...............................Pg 13 Baoli in Nizamuddin.........................Pg 17 Baoli in Munirka................................Pg 21 Arab ki Serai Baoli.............................Pg 25 Baoli in Firoz Shah Kotla..................Pg 29 Hindu Rao Baoli................................Pg 33 Baoli in Red Fort................................Pg 37 Baoli in Old Fort................................Pg 41 Baolis in Media...................................Pg 44 Delhi looking at a dry future............Pg 45 Reviews................................................Pg 46

Rani ki Vav

Foreword

When I first met Aditya at his wonderful photography exhibition on architecture of seven cities of Delhi “Ishq-i-Dilli” ,held in our school D.P.S. R.K. Puram ; I knew this student could, and did skillfully capture the essence of our beloved city, Delhi. He has photographed such beautiful baolis of Delhi, which most of us have never seen or heard of. This is the first book to be printed on Baolis of Delhi, and it is hearenting to see a seventeen year old bring foward the long forgotten water systems of the Indian subcontinent, which are rapidly becoming redundant.

Many of these stepwells are dry and abandoned, but some of them which have been revived, are full of water which is till date being used. These monuments are being evaluated all over India by agencies, like ASI- Archaeological Survey of India and INTACH- Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage, for their ablity to collect and store water. With the Yamuna river dying, water will become very scarce and dear to us.

We need more citezens to come together and care for the rich heritage of our country. I have full faith that if one student brings about change and awareness, we can together bring a big revolution. As our next step, our school is also planning to adopt the baoli in Munirka. I have myself MA in History and have an understanding of the importance of studying and preserving our cultural heritage and if my action can bring about awareness in the present generation about the magnificient ancient water systems of our city, I will be more than obliged to do it.

I extend my good wishes for the success of this book and am waiting the release of ‘Baolis of Delhi’ With Best wishes, Dr. D.R. Saini Principal, D.P.S R.K. Puram

Dr D R Saini, National Awardee, is the Principal of DPS, RK Puram, New Delhi. During his 36years of dedicated service in the field of education, sports and culture, he has held the post of Vice Principal of this institution and of the Principal since August, 2009. His educational qualifications are : M.A., Ph.D, M.Ed., LL.B. He is a member of 36 Advisory Boards of various organizations and also a Member of General Council of the NCERT, Ministry of Youth Affairs & Sports in the context of the formulation of the 12th Five Year Plan (2012-17), and many more.

He is also the President of Delhi Basketball Association and the Vice President of the Bowling Federation of India as well as Jawaharlal Nehru Hockey Tournament Society (JNHTS) and Chairman (JNHTC).

Firoz Shah Kotla

Preface

Water is one of the substance without which life cannot exist. From time immemorial water has been the driving force of every civilization and people attached great importance to an adequate supply of water for different purposes like agricultural operations, cooking, drinking, washing etc. people from beginning were aware about the importance of water. In arid region people collect the rain water as well under ground water for their daily needs. India is a country with very deep historical roots and strong culture tradition. Most important among them is the tradition of collecting, storing the pure water in form of step wells, baolies, wells, ponds etc. Baolis plays a very important role in ancient time not only because it fulfills the need of drinking water but also for amusement place to royal family in summer season and become center for cultural activities in later period.

Delhi falls under semi arid region so water bodies were reported from earlier time. The water bodies also provide the valuable information regarding history, art and architecture of their contemporary period. This book of shri Aditya Mehta will be very help full to the common people seeking inform for Delhi’s water bodies. This book has comprised water bodies of different periods situated in Delhi.

It gives me immense pleasure to learn that Shr. ADITYA MEHTA has taken so much pain in this tender age to bring out a book on water bodies specially step wells. He has very vividly brought out the significance and salient features of these water bodies right from the Rajput period to the present day Delhi. He also taken photographs by himself there are ready very good.

I really appreciate his efforts in bringing about this body of work which has significantly added to our understanding of our rich culture heritage.

Vasant Kumar Swarnkar Superintending Archaeologist ASI, Delhi Circle

INTRODUCTION Baoli, a name quite unheard of to Delhites, belongs to what I like to interpret as monuments of life. The map of Delhi is spotted with various monuments that now also serve various other purposes. Great tombs converted into sheds, mosques abandoned and visited only by the seekers of solitude, majestic forts now dilapidated, ignored and sometimes dangerous to visit after nightfall . The list goes on... But, one the most spectacular monuments in the city are its baolis. Unknown to most Delhites, but adopted by those in its locality, a baoli is a magnificient structure. Still serving the communities a lot more than intended, a baoli built hundreds of years ago, does still easily become a part of someone’s life in today’s generation. Technically, a baoli is a stepwell, with a flight of straight steps leading down to the water level,but if you ask anybody present at the baoli, they will tell you that it means a lot more to them. With a city growing rapidly around them, increasing urbanisation leading to plummeting water levels, many baoli’s have now run dry.But many of the baoli’s are drawing more and more visitors due to the constant conservational efforts made by government and NGO’s like the Archaeological Survey of India, Indian National Tradition and Cultural Heritage organisation and the Agha Khan Trust.Realizing the potential and seeing a very bright future for this spectacle of the past, I want to do my part in not just conserving but enhancing its glory and making this architectural marvell of the old, a part of the new.

Chand Baoli in Abhaneri, Rajasthan is famous for its dazzling inscrutible architectural geometry. It is the deepest and largest stepwell in the world(19.5 m in depth).It has been provided by double flight of steps on each of its ten landings on three sides.Chand Baoli has also served as a location for may films including ‘The Fall’ and ‘The Dark Knight Rises’!

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What is a baoli?

In India, baolis are known by many names; bawadi, barav, vaav, kalyani, pushkani or stepwell. As the name suggests, a stepwell consists of a series of steps leading down to the water table. In most baolis, there is a single flight of steps descending down to the water, and then continuing further submerged in water to some depth. So as the water dries and recedes in the summers, more steps appear from beneath leading further down to the water.

Although most baolis were designed only for the purpose of storing water, some were also designed to shelter travellers and caravans.

These baolis were made with rooms on the upper tiers with a colonnaded veranda (dhalan) supported on columns. Such stepwells were also spaces for

Rani ki Waw is an intricately constructed sub-terrarian baoli in the town of Patan, Gujrat. It was included in the list of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites on 22 June 2014.Designed as an inverted temple,it is divided in seven levels of stairs with sculptured panels .

social interaction where discussions and gatherings were held. The architecture form of the baoli consists of three elements; the well which is the main source of water, from where it flows to the stairs, the flight of steps to reach the ground water through several storeys, and the intermediate pavilions. Most of the surviving baolis are and embodiment of outstanding architecture with beautiful carving, ornamented with decorative embellishments and relief work on the columns, steps and walls.

History of Baolis in India Baolis first appeared in India between the 2nd and the 4th century AD. In vast plains and deserts of north and northwest India, the problem of water has always been profound. This part of India experiences torrential seasonal monsoon. Water disappears immediately with long summers because the soil cannot hold it. The need to tap ground water and make it accessible to people led to construction of several structures; baolis, tanks, wells and became an epitome of architecture of the local people.

The rulers invading India from north west realised the importance of a permanent supply of ground water in the arid regions of India, and the Turk conquest sparked off many projects, with Iltumish ordering the excavation of Huzi-Shamzi in Mehrauli in 1230’s. Alauddin Khalji creating the 28 hectare spread of the Hauz-e-Alai (Hauz Khas) less than a century later, Gandhak ki baoli was also built in this period. During the 14 century, many famous baolis including Ugrasen ki baoli , baoli at Firoz Shah Kotla, baoli at Pg. 2

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Rajon ki Baoli

Red Fort, Hindu Rao baoli, and baoli near Nizamuddin Dargah which was built under the supervision of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. The Mughal era too contributed to the water systems in Delhi. Mughals introduced the concept of pools, chaddars (‘sheets’ rippling over carved stone beds) and water canals with fountains running across their famous charbagh style gardens (a large garden divided into parts of four by pathways or water canals). The baoli in Arab ki Serai was also built in this era, shortly after the demise of Mughal emperor Humayun.

became a historic relic. Although once abandoned completely, baolis recently started attracting new visitors. In the age, when the creators of the baolis are long gone, we now realise its beauty and importance and get drawn to them. However, some baolis are still forgotten, marvels waiting to be discovered. In this book, I shall take you on a journey through some of the baolis of Delhi, which left me awestruct when I first laid my eyes on them.

Water’s presence in Indian Architecture can be seen since the earliest of times. Structures like baolis were first used as an art form by the Hindus and were later popularised under the Muslim rule. Through the passage of time baolis not only became the main source of drinking water but also a cool sanctuary for prayers, meditation, bathing and other forms of recreation. Baolis were soon seen as a place of spirituality and religion, and many baolis were then built with temples or mosques with it.

People prayed and offered gifts to the gods and goddesses protecting the well. Some baolis were also made summer palaces of kings where they organised annual events and frequent dance performances. Some baolis also have platforms for performances and seating for viewers to sit in the opposite direction. Here the villages and communities came to get entertained in the cool shelter of the baoli. Baolis like the Firoz Shah Kotla baoli, the Chand Baoli in Abhaneri, Rajasthan are such exapmles.

Baolis through hundreds of years became a part of the peoples’ lives. They were a relief from the heat to the travellers, workers and even animals. They were a great source of drinking water, a place of social gathering and religious ceremonies. The baoli became the embodiment of our ancestors’ culture. The 19th century saw a fast decline in the use of stepwells. The British colonisers felt that they were unhygienic sources of water and started using and promoting pipelines and plumbing. With increasing urbanisation, the baolis of Delhi slipped into forgetfulness. The grand monuments, which were once a part of our heritage, slowly

The marvellous carvings in Rani ki Waw (The Queen’s stepwell) mostly depicting lord Vishnu in his ten forms (Dus-Avatars).Constructed in 11th century, its fourth level is the deepest and leads to a rectangular tank 9.5 m by 9.4 m at a depth of 23 m.the main well is 10 m in diameter and 30 m deep.

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Ugrasen Ki Baoli Pg. 5

Location Hailey road, off Barakhamba Road Ownership Public, ASI Special Features B. PHYSICAL DISCRIPTION: The grand stepwell is surely one of the finest in the city. It measures 58.5 m by 13.7 m. At the north end is a circular well and a covered portion. Along its length there are arched niches.

C. DECORATIVE FEATURES: Arched Niches.

Materials Walls: Random rubble masonry. Floor: Stone. Vault roof: Stone State of Preservation Some silt needs to be cleared up and the reservoir refilled with water. The adjacent high-rise structure have harmed the general setting of the complex.Clean and maintained Date Pre Lodi (courtsey ASI)

The Ugrasen ki Baoli lies right in the heart of Delhi stuck in the past, amidst transient surroundings. After passing through a rather small doorway, the grand baoli reveals its massiveness as I entered onto a single, long flight of 103 steps leading down the presently dry stepwell.

The baoli’s rubble and stone masonry give it faint pink orange colour.

Descending down the steps into the baoli’s three levels, I couldn’t help but admire the superimposed arcades on the opposite walls, and the pathways on either sides of each level leading to the side rooms of the baoli. The narrowing steps, arched niches and the walkways in perspective drew my attention to a marvellous wall like structure at the end of the steps which served the purpose of a screen. This structure separates the stepwell from the main well shaft behind it (which I discovered after my curiosity forced me to crawl through a narrow tunnel like passage connecting the baoli to the well shaft). The screen structure beautified by large Tuglaq era arches on each level, left me awestruck as I moved close, and then into it to see its largeness and notice the bat covered dome topping the structure.

The domed chamber acting as a screen between the steps and the well shaft. Bats cover every inch of the dome capping the structure.

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The opposite walls of the baoli is lined with a superimposed arcade. These niches served as shelters for the visitors who came to seek refuge from the sun and relax.

The Ugrasen baoli is believed by some to have been built by King Agrasen during the time of the Mahabharata (sometime between 600 and 500 BC,says a legend). But when looked upon through an architectural perspective, I realised that the baoli had been made during Tuglaq period (from 1320-1414).

As I approached the Baoli’s side rooms, I found my eagerness to be disappointed by the grilled doors which barred its entrance, but I could still see inside the dark rooms and I could feel its comforting coolness. Searching the baoli thoroughly, Tughlaq era arches used in niches in the walls and in the seperating screen I found a couple of steep and narrow staircases on either sides of the baoli wall which lead to small rooms and windows with the view of the baoli from a different vantage point.

Baolis had not only served the purpose of providing water, but also gave refuge to passers-by from the scorching sun. The cool baoli also attracted several visitors during the hot summers, and there were also rooms on the baolis sides where people had often slept, and grand prayers and religious ceremonies were also held.

The baolis were a place of social gathering, refuge, comfort and leisure and religious importance. Baolis such as Ugrasen ki baoli, were and still are the threads that hold together the delicate fabric of the Indian culture.

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(courtsey ASI) Agrsen ki Baoli before its res-

toration. Silt is burrying most of the baoli beneath it.

(courtsey ASI) Agrasen ki Baoli after its

desiltation.

Ugrassen ki Baoli is beautifully lined with arched niches on both sides on the baoli wall. .One can walks down 103 steps to dry well ,perfectly cool even on a hot summer day.

From an architectural perspective this step well was probably rebuilt during Tughlaq period.

Ugrassen ki Baoli is a protected monuement by the (ASI) under Ancient Monuements and Archaeolical sites and Remains Act of 1958, efforts were made to rejuvenate it and is now restored to its prime glory. Before restoration ,stepwell was covered with vegetation,only top two levels could be seen.

Ugrasen ki Baoli is also called Agrasen ki Baoli,is attributed to the pre-Lodhi era .

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Rajon Ki Baoli Pg. 9

(courtsey ASI)

The Baoli before its restoration

I reached Mehrauli archaeological park at 8 am with the sun already bright above my head. I was very excited because I had heard a lot about Rajon ki baoli. This baoli lies deep in the archaeological park, which was more like an undiscovered treasure chest. Its beautiful ornamental embellishment has made it one of the most beautiful baoli’s in Delhi. There was a whole ancient city inside this park. I discovered the Jamali Kamali Mosque which I didn’t know was inside this park, there was Quli Khan’s beautiful tomb and two baolis along with a whole lot of other magnificent structures inside the park that I never knew had existed!

The steps of the baoli leading down, as seen from the second tier of the enclosed intermidiate pavillion. Built between 12th and 19th century AD,this complex has a mosque

Reaching the Rajon ki baoli’s complex, I couldn’t see the baoli at all. One would at least expect a peek of the baoli before entering, but the baoli held my curiosity a little longer. When I entered the complex, my heart almost stopped. There lay a baoli, more beautiful than I had imagined and so skilfully concealed that it actually became completely subterrarian. As I walked towards it, the trenching baoli slowly revealed its depths and architecture. The perfect symmetry of the arches and the baoli itself left me in awe.

The sun falling diagonally across the baoli, enhancing its orange colour , fell on the floors of each tier to make amazing shadow patterns of curves and Pg. 10

lines. The baoli had me mesmerised, and the silent environment with only the present pigeons’ wing flapping, put me into a flashback. I started imagining the baoli as it had been in its prime time. I imagined a bright hot day like today with the baoli there to shelter the locals. Men contently sucked smoked from their hukka’s pipes with their friends, merrily chatting away in the baoli’s coolness. I could see women climbing down the steps of the well, coming together in their groups to fetch water. When I looked left outside the baoli’s complex, I could imagine people coming on camels and tying them to the trees, with an expression of absolute delight on their faces when they look at the cool and relieving baoli. The baoli which was now abandoned, came to life in my mind.

The four tiered baoli, narrowed on its way down, with colonnaded arcades on its three sides around the steps, accessible from sideways on each level. The baoli had been constructed by Daulat khan during the reign of Sikandar Lodi in 1506, who had built the baoli keeping in mind the welfare of the locals. Daulat Khan left the Lodi trademark with the famous lodi style arches all throughout the baoli. The perfectly symmetrical and spaced arches drew me to the side halls of the baoli. Inside the arcade, as I walked beneath the arches, I found many widows through which water would flow from the main shaft well to the baoli when it was full. I took one of the stairs that lead to the baoli’s terrace, where Daulat Khan’s himself tomb was made. The tomb although in a dilapidated state, still gave a glimpse of its beauty.

One could still see a part of the blue tile work that had once covered the eight pillared tomb’s dome. Beside the tomb was a mosque, also built by Daulat khan. The modest mosque was plain and simple from outside, but once I steped in, I discovered the marvellous plaster work done on its ceiling. Unfortunately though, like

The sub-terrarian baoli in its walled complex enclosing a mosque and Daulat Khan’s tomb with it.

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many other monuments, its plaster had blackened and was covered with garafitti.

The baoli now dry, the tomb now deteriorated and the mosque now disrespected, still held a sense of serenity. Its beauty still peeked from its blackened corners, and made me think, if it looks so full of life in its abandonment, what it must have been during its time.

(courtsey ASI)

The twelve pillared tomb of Daulat Khan adjoining mosque. The blue tiles that once decorated the tomb can still be seen clinging to some places.

Location DDA Park, Mehrauli, about 700 m north west from Jamali Kamali Ownership Public, ASI Special Features A. SIGNIFICANCE: The baoli is very spectacular and the related buildings add further to its character. It appears to have derived its name from the fact that it was used by masons (raj) for a while.

B. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The baoli is oblong, with steps leading down from the north. In 1875 there were 66 steps but now because the stepwell is partly filled in, there are three stories and 41 steps. The walls of the lowest visible story are decorated with deeply recessed arches. The top storey is surrounded by an arcade with massive piers. On the south wall is a well.The top storey had chajjas which have now disappeared.

C. DECORATIVE FEATURES: Niche in baoli, Kangura battlements, mouldings.

Materials

The collonaded archade on Rajon ki Baoli’s first tier, a shelter intended for the baoli’s visitors.

Walls: Random rubble masonry. Floors: Stone. Vaulted Domed Roof: Stone.

State of Preservation Good Date A.D. 1506 Pg. 12

Gandhak Ki Baoli Pg. 13

One of the oldest baolis found in Delhi Gandhak ki Baoli is a five minute walk from the Rajon ki Baoli in Mehrauli Archaeological park. The baoli got its name from the mineral, Sulphur (gandhak) which enriches its waters and gives it a strong smell. It was built in times of the Iltumish reign, the water of this baoli has been known to have a healing effect .For years people from far off places have come to bathe in its waters. To some the baoli’s water is sacred and even today people religiously bathe in the baoli’s muddy waters.

Gandhak ki Baoli’s sketch in pencil.

There is said to have existed a canal which ran from the baoli and in its west wall. The canal has been recently covered when the collapsed west wall of the baoli was repaired. It was said to have carried water from the well to a seperate containment tank on the top at the baolis north-western corner, from where people could access the clean water without having the need to step into the baoli. The tank too is now covered and is diguised as the entrance steps into the baoli!

The baoli is located in the intricacies of Mehrauli village. It lays in there as if it were just any other building in the locality. Although one spots litter carelessly thrown on its steps and in its waters, the baoli itself remains in a very good condition. The baoli is known to be five tiered deep, but when I saw it it was so full that it only showed the top one tier. The underground streams that once fed the baoli have now run dry leading to its muddy and almost stagnant waters. But still surprisingly it is one of the very few baolis which are still full of water.

The baoli made in one of the earliest cities of delhi, in the 13 century is very plain and is embellished with simple flat Iltumish era columns supporting its ceilings. The baoli Pg.14

is simple in design and consists of a single long flight of steps leading straight down. Due to deterioration of time the steps at the lower levels are quite worn out and have almost become impossible to walk on. Like many other baolis of Delhi, this baoli has a main well shaft which feeds the baoli with water.

Though the baoli though now in shape is still a luxury to some. At the baoli was a woman with her child ,who was descending the steps of the baoli to bathe in its waters. She was homeless, poor and begged for a living. On asking what the baoli meant to her, she said, “This baoli is mine,I lived here for last 15 years,i am the queen.”

(courtsey ASI) Gandhak ki Baoli is also known as the diving well because of people jumping from different tiers of the

baoli into the water.

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Location Ward 7, Mehrauli, about 100 m south from Adham Khan’s Tomb.

Ownership Public, ASI Special Features A. SIGNIFICANCE: The medieval Stepwell is still in use.

B. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The baoli is five tiered. The circular portion of the welll is towards the south. Each tier is reached by way of galleries on the east and west which give access to the well. The entire complex is very striking.

Materials Walls: Stone masonary. Floor: Stone State of Preservation Sign of deterioration. The stepwell is still used though the water is dirty and stagnant as the underground streams have dried up.

Date A.D. 1210-36 (Iltumish’s reign).

Built in a time when the true arch had yet not reached the Indian Subcontinent, the baoli was probably built by Hindu masons who still confidently used their conventional pillars, similar to those found in the Qutb complex’s mosque, which was actually built from materials extracted from the Jain temple which existed previously in the area.

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Baoli in Nizamuddin

A walk through the Nizamuddin area was like a visit to a 14 th century village and market place. Each corner and shop selling religious items and souvenirs, permeated with the mixed fragrance of ittar and rose, with culture and spirituality seemingly erupting from the boundaries of everything present.

All of this fitting into the shopkeeper’s small room, saved my mind the trouble of imagining the scene, as it had been 700 years ago. As I navigated through the weaving labyrinth, of narrow and crooked rudimentary roads to reach the Hazrat Nizamuddin baoli,I could hear faint sound of a melodious ‘quawalli’ being sung at the nearby dargah. I was often greeted with a dazzling and warm smile from everyone I encountered. The crowd of Hazrat Nizamuddin’s devotees spotted distinctly with skullcaps and traditional kurtas beautifully embodied the long prevalent culture, and fascinated me to learn more about it.

When I reached the baoli, I was stunned by its vibrant appearance. It was a massive baoli confusingly entangled amidst its surrounding slums. The baoli had been in a dilapidated state with its walls breaking and collapsing. Recently when the Agha Khan Trust for Culture carried out a thorough renovation and restoration of the baoli. The baoli to my surprise was still full of water and functional. The Nizamuddin baoli is actually fed by seven different streams with pure spring water, so fast filling that if left undisturbed for 48 hours the water level rises on its own! It is in fact one of the most ‘active’ baolis in Delhi, with people still using its water. Pilgrims of the dargah often come to take ritualistic bath in the baoli, and consider its water to be holy and healing.

There was a group of mischievous children who were diving into the baoli from the surrounding houses,

quite disturbing the others who had come to simply bade the workmen to work anywhere else. So the enjoy a pleasant bath with a calm and a spiritual am- workmen decided to work on Hazarat Nizamudbience, which to their dismay, had been shattered. din’s baoli at night. The king prohibited the sale of oil for lamps to Nizamuddin, but the workers soon There is a famous legend attached to the baoli. In the found that their lamps could be lit using the water 14th century, Hazarat Nizamuddin, got this baoli from baoli! Though the kings purpose was to be a built for his various disciples and himself. The baoli deterrent to the baoli’s construction, Nizamuddin’s was being built at the time when King Ghiyasuddin miracles did not let the king impede the process.

Tuglaq, a rival of the Hazarat, was building his fortress at Tuglaqabad. The King infuriated, for- The furious saint cursed the king for his depravity, say-

(courtsey ASI) 700 year old monument gets its first full makeover.Baoli is fed by seven underground

springs that keep it recharged perennially

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ing that his efforts would all be a waste. After the completion of the it would remain desserted and desollated, and Nizamuddin’s baoli would for ever bare water and never run dry. The fort was soon desserted and today about seven hundred years after the saint’s baoli’s completion, it still remains full of water while many other baolis ran dry.

(courtsey ASI) The Agha Kha Trust for Culture (AKTC) restored much

of the baoli to its original state. The process that involved emtying the

tank of its water in order to pump out the sewage and toxic sludge to improve the water quality, relaying leaking sewage lines, rebuilding the collapsed portions, restortion of the arched windows and addition of jaalis (stone lattice screens) on the windows, clearing tha passage ways connecting the dargah and the baoli and facing the same with white plaster over the walls and the marble along the floor.

Structures including tombs and residences are built riskily upon the walls of the 700 years old baoli.

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Sketch of the Nizamuddin Baoli done in pencil.

Children jumping and swimming in the baoli to beat the heat.

(courtsey ASI)

Location Nizamuddin village, north of Dargah Ownership Public, ASI Special Features A. SIGNIFICANCE: The baoli was construct under the Hazrat Nizamuddi’s supervision and is said to have been the cause of contention between Nizamuddin and Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq Shah.

B. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The baoli measures 37.5 m by 16.15 m and is enclosed by walls on the south , east and west, the descending steps being on the north. Building have been erected on the walls of the baoli at different times including the narrow arcade passage on the east. The baoli needs to be desilted, but is nevertheless in active use and its waters considered sacred.

Materials Walls: Dressed stone masonry.

State of Preservation Signs of deterioration. The water is very dirty and the walls need attention as they have been built over on all four sides.

Date A.D. 1321-2

Hazarat Nizamuddin’s dargah next to the baoli Pg. 20

Baoli in Munirka Pg. 21

This baoli in R.K. Puram is known as the Baoli in Munirka. Built in the Lodi era this baoli was built as the last place of rest for travellers journeying to the capital. Serving as a shelter for Nomads (Banjaras). Walking down the steps one notices the many arched niches on the baolis opposite walls which were once used as sleeping chambers for travellers. Like many other baolis in Delhi it has a layout similar to that of Ugrasen ki baoli and Rajon ki baoli. A ledge runs along the outside of the cells right the end giving access to the covered chambers in the screen separating the baoli from the main well shaft. Though the baoli is not overall ornamental, it has a very interesting complex design of stairs at a secondary shallow reservoir shaft inside the baolis main frontal structure. Known for the two domed turrets flanking the southern end, the 15th century baoli lies in a complex amongst three Lodhi era tombs and a small dilapidated mosque. The complex all together is also concealed as it is covered by residential colonies all around it.

Though ignored by most Delhi the locals have adopted this monument in solitude. Once Nomads used to rest in its shade now college friends prefer to escape the heat in its shelter. Once travellers from far off regions stopped at its grounds now hundreds of people gather on the grass and play cards with their friends all day. On one side the baoli was once abandoned, but though it lost its nomads, it was found new friends, and the Baoli is now at peace. Though now dry, the baoli is still alive.

Three Lodi era tombs are also located inside the complex. These are the typical Lodi tombs and a similar one can also be seen at the Lodi Garden Pg. 22

A small lodi era mosque located in the baoli,s complex.

Location Sector5, R.K.Puram Ownership Public, ASI Special Features A. SIGNIFICANCE: The presence of the baoli indicates that the after had a large population in the Lodi times.

B. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The baoli measures 30 m by 11.6 m and has an attached well at the south end. The well is flanked by domed turrets which contain narrow winding staircases, leading to the bottom.

C. DECORATIVE FEATURES: Domed turrets Materials Walls: Random rubble masonry. Floor: Stone.

State of Preservation Maintained well, lush green lawns,baoli clean and monuements restored.

Date Lodi era.

The baoli’s recently restored steps from the intermidiate pavillion.

Pg. 23 (courtsey ASI)

This Baoli of Munirka was constructed during the Lodhi reign andis in RK Puram , very close to my school,Students of differnt clubs visit here for photograhy, sketching,historical walks, my school D.P.S RK Puram is planning to adopt this monuement to promote awareness of our rich heritage.

Apart from having a main well shaft at the back of the baoli, this baoli also has an auxiliary smaller shaft in the main reservoir.

Our school will take the responsibility of keeping the monuement clean and making several visits during the year.

Many students were suprised ,when i exhibited photographs of this magnificient monuement. Not many were aware of its presence ,even if its only five minutes walk from my school.

From within a turret to another and a well in between.

The two turrets flanking the baoli’s southern end gives it a unique character of its own.

(courtsey ASI) Down the well of the presently dry baoli.

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Arab ki Serai Baoli

The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) rediscovered history in 2003,while excavating inside Arab-ki-Sarai., they discovered an old stepwell. “we just knew from old records that a baoli existed here.that has been totally covered over the years with malba(debris)”. said ASI Delhi circle’s superintending archaeologist AK Sinha. Several workers spent the past few weeks digging the place and stumbled upon the old baoli.

“This place will play a very important contemporary role of harvesting rain” said Sinha. the same year high court asked civic agencies in Delhi to restore the water bodies under their control.The ASI then had 10 baolis under it.in 2003 the Union water resourse ministry had asked the Central Ground Water Board (CGWB) to study the recharge of the baolis in Delhi.These baolis were distilled completely. and were capturing rain water that monsoon to boost the falling water table in their areas.The progress in these areas is not much, Arab-kiSarai baoli has water in it,even in peak summer but some baolis are totally dry like Ugrassen ki Baoli in C.P Delhi.

Well is uncovered,in most baolis is Delhi well is locked or closed .

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A long time ago... in 1560 after the passing of a, the great mughal emperor Humayun, died of fatal injuries, when he tumbled down the stairs of the Sher Mandal, at Old Fort. The Emperor’s wife Haji Begam wished to journey to mecca and bring back with her 300 Arab mullahs (priests). And, to house the 300 Arab priests, an enclosure called Arab ki Serai or Arab ‘rest house’, was made in the south western corner of Humayun’s tomb. The serai, made as a place to stay, pray, gather and to socialise, too enclosed within its boundaries, a baoli!

Though unnamed and unadvertised,this baoli has gained much recognition over the years for it’s architecture. The L shaped baoli consists of two narrow flights of steps descending down from opposite sides. The water of the baoli which once served high priests to wash and drink, now is thick and green with stagnation and ignorance. Though some of the baoli’s arches have broken over the years, the remains now to tell us about the workers’ dexterity.

As I descended the worn down steps, grazing the rough, blackened plaster walls of the baoli, I could feel the serene aura of its purity. At the last step ,touching the green water, I sat observing its somewhat unconventinal structure. To the right of the main water containment, I could see a small arched passage connecting the baoli’s reservoir to the main well shaft .

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Arab ki Sarai was built in 1560-61 was lodging place ,it had a mosque, a baoli, apartments and stables. The newly constructed buildings and houses are only 2 to 3 meters away from the baolis boundry wall.

The baoli spanning over an area of about 57 sq m. is comparatively smaller than the other baoli’s situated in Delhi. With its small area, remote location and lacking documentation, the baoli is practically unknown to most Delhi’s population, and thus waiting in secluded isolation, the baoli is a marvel to be discovered.

Location (courtsey ASI) Humayun’s Tomb complex Ownership Public, ASI. Special features A. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The baoli’s water reservoir is in L shape, with two flight of stairs leading down to the water. A circular well shaft is joined to the main baoli though passages in a separating wall.

Materials Walls: Rubble masonry State of Preservation Signs of deterioration. Water is dirty and stagnant Date 1560-61

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Firoz Shah Kotla Ki Baoli Pg. 29

Firoz shah kotla, built in 1354 by the powerful king Firoz shah tughlaq, is well known for its pyramid of cells crowned by a 3rd century Ashokan pillar, but is only seldom known for the beautiful baoli the djjin infested fort holds. I was giddy as a schoolboy and couldn’t wait to see the baoli unfold before me.

As I followed my guide on a rough cemented path, I passed many famous structures; the Jami Masjid, the three storied pyramid of cells ,his palace the beautiful doors and gateways and the well maintained apartments, all of which carpeted by long stretching lush green grass, made me wonder how grand the citadel was in its prime. I arrived at the baoli and the guard opened a gate into its tall circumscribing fence.

The baoli like many others, was made of rubble masonary, and random posed stones contrasted strongly with its black weathered plaster. Moving along the curving exteriors we finally came to its rather small entrance lea ing up a narrow flight of stairs with the width of a mans shoulders. Stepping off the stairs, the baoli’s entire interior unveils itself at once and is suddenly too much for the eyes to take in Moving slowly along the baoli’s round pathway, the baoli’s unor-

thodox features are the first to catch attention! It is one of the only baoli’s in Delhi which does not have distinct steps leading down to the well. The baoli has two levels, each of whose walls are lined by arched niches all along its circumference. The well can only be accessed from the lower level strictly prohibited to the public.

Although, everything about the baoli is small, the baoli all together holds a grandeur more superior than any other. The baoli somewhat the Colosseum with a well in the center,instead of the arena, was a retreat and a place of social gathering in the summers.

Of all the cities Firoz Shah Tughlaq made Hissar-Firoza, Jaunpur, Firozpur, the sultan preferred to spend most of his time in his city near Delhi (Firozabad), and his kotla in Delhi soon became his summer retreat.

The baoli spanning 87613 sq. meters, roofed with half broken chattris at the main entrances still effectively held its beauty in the plaster that clung to its rubble masonry. Despite its dilapidated condition the baoli is still is used to water the lawns of Firoz Shah Kotla and fulfilling its purpose.

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(courtsey ASI)

Location Firoz Shah Kotla, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg Ownership Locked by ASI Special Features A. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The three-floor deep stepwell has a staircase at its western end.

Though the entrance is now blocked off. The water of the well is now pumped up to water the gardens.

B. DECORATIVE FEATURES: Arched recesses in the outer wall.

Materials Walls: Random rubble masonry State of Preservation Restored and clean Date A.D. 1354 Pg. 31

The subterranian apartments around the baoli, and a large underground drain for the water towards its easstern side can be seen. You can view the river Yamuna when standing at the highest point here.

The mosque and the palace are very close to the baoli.The baoli served as a summer retreat fro the royalities here, they spent their time cooling off and bathing in the water of this well.

The circular baoli has a very different plan compared to the other step wells which are either square or rectangular in shape.

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Hindu Rao Ki Baoli Pg. 33

Unfortunately, all that the baoli had been cannot be seen today. All one can see now is the ruin of its reservoir, arched niches and some drains. It has degraded so much that deterioration does not give any of its visitors even one square foot of comfortable and safe place to stand. As I traversed on the treacherous ground, the keeper of the baoli kept cautioning me and telling me to be careful, for I could slip any moment and fall into the baoli.

The baoli was originally encircled by a series of chambers, much like the baoli at Firoz Shah Kotla. Today as we descend down the stairs and see the most visible part of the baoli, one sees the many beautiful Tughlaq era arches on the baoli, clearly indicating the age it was built in. In its rubble masonry one could still steal a glimpse of the baoli’s grand beauty now hidden by deterioration.

I imagined in a vision of sepia haze, thee baoli in all its glory. I imagined vast stretches of forest spanning all around it, and Firoz Shah Tughlaq resting in its cool shade and once a sturdy and strong foundation. I believed, that the baoli must have been a spectacular sight to see, and if restored may become one of the most beautiful baolis in Delhi.

Right next to Hindu Rao Hospital, fenced and concealed so well, a baoli lies hidden inside high walls, such that even a resident of the locality may fail to know of its existence. Not much remains of this ruin, but looking at it carefully one can quite successfully link it to the baoli at Firoz Shah Kotla.

Built at around the same time as the circular baoli at Firoz Shah Kotla, in 1354, the baoli’s reservoir is also circular in manner. Archaeologist have also found a tunnel leading out of the north well of the baoli towards Firoz Shah Kotla. This baoli also made under the rule of Firoz Shah Tughaq, served as his water source when the king went on hunting excursions. It supplied water to the Kush-i-Shikar, the kings hunting lounge.

The baoli served many masters in his life. During the revolt of 1857, the baoli was the only source of water for many british officers and generals. Afraid that Indian sepoys might try to poision the wters of this boli, British officer Major Kerrings ordered a permanent guard to be kept at the baoli.

Sketch of the arches of Hindu Rao Baoli. The architecture of these arches shows that it is of Tughlaq era. These arches seem to be adopting the true arch concept which arrived into the subcontinent in 1192 AD.

Pg. 34

(courtsey ASI) Although the baoli has a reservoir circular in nature, some straight walls like this were also present and now in a deteriorated shape.

(courtsey ASI) Baoli’s front face with archaeologists examining the structure.

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HINDU RAO BAOLILocation Hindu Rao Marg, Civil Lines (immediatly adjacent to western entrance to Hindu Rao Hospital) Ownership :locked by ASI Special Features PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The baoli is a depp structure the exact extent of which is difficult to determine thanks to heavy vegetation. It was originallysupposed to have chambers all around. There is also a tunnel leading from the noerth end to a length of 2.15 m high and had ventilation shafts and doorways, is unknown.

Materials Walls: Random rubble masonary.

State of Preservation Serious deterioration. The baoli is so covered with vegetation that it appears to be no more than a hole in the ground. Access is not possible.

Date Early 14th century. Firoz Shah Tughlaq’s reign.

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Red Fort Baoli Pg. 37

Oddly enough, the baoli in red fort was built in the tughlaq era, about 327 years before the construction of the Red Fort, and ever since played a curiously unknown but important role throughout its life time! This baoli made of quartzine stone is said to be the part of the Salimgarh fort which precedes the later Red Fort.

I had seen pictures of this baoli and my heart was set on it. I wondered why after all my trips to Red Fort I had not yet seen this beautiful baoli. Apparently, the baoli is not yet accessible o general public . Recently restored, this baoli still has a rumour of being infested with snakes! I didn’t care for the snakes. I really just wanted to this magnificent piece of history .

I reached Red Fort early in the morning with my permission in my pocket. Looking at the tourist map of the Red Fort I finally saw a rectangle sign board with the map of the fort, isolated,away from the other monuments, titled Baoli. In the solitude there lay the baoli. Looking at the low sub-terrarian beauty and the skilfulness of the design, I saw clearly the dexterity of its workers. The flawless large tughlaq arch welcomed all it visitors to the depths of this monument.

Slowly walking down the stairs, I saw the chambers at the sides of the steps. They were the very chambers which had held many of our great heros during our struggle against the British colonisers. I could almost imagine Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose looking out of the opening in the brick walls which earlier covered the mouths of

(courtsey ASI)

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these chambers. Even Dara Sikoh and several rebellious princes were imprisoned here.

Now the baoli bright in all its glory held a mysterious yet peaceful aura.

The 14th century baoli is a brilliant piece of work. Built in an unorthodox manner, the baoli has two perpendicular flights of stairs leading down to the mossy octagonal well shaft, 6.5 m in diameter and 14.27 meters deep, completely full of water. The wall made of rubble masonry, covered with hard quartzine stone, makes it according to me one of the most beautiful baolis in delhi. Previously a dumping ground, the baoli now renewed and the tank’s water restored by the efforts of ASI, it is now a sight I hope all public shall soon be able to see.

(courtsey ASI) Pg. 39

(courtsey ASI) (courtsey ASI) Location Red Fort, Shahjahanabad.

Ownership Locked by ASI. Special Features A. SIGNIFICANCE: This Tughlaq-period within the Red Fort has an unusual design and is of high archaeological value.

B. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The baoli compromises an octagonal double-storeyed shaft approximately 7 m in diameter. Adjacent to this is a tank roughly 6 sq m, the walls of which have now been built upon. Water flowed from the well to the tank, as is usual with baolis.

Materials Walls: Rubble masonry. Roof (vaults): Rubble masonry.

State of Preservation Serious deterioration. The walls of the tank have been built upon.

Date Tughlaq era (courtsey ASI)

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Old Fort Baoli Pg. 41

Another one of the brilliant baolis in Delhi is the baoli at Old Fort. Surprisingly I had never seen this baoli that has always been there. This baoli though recently restored is still off limits to the general public, and to visit this marvel I took another permission of entry from the ASI Delhi Circle, whose archaeologists were very helpful and gave me the permission and encouragement.

I always noticed the height at which Old Fort was built upon, and now with another monument in mind, I wondered how steep or how deep the baoli there must have been to reach water level. Built in Quartzine stone, this baoli consists of a rather narrow flight of 89 steps separated by 8 landings, marked by recessed niches on the walls, leading right down to the depth of 22 meters. A feature that grabbed my attention was the series of gradually receding arches of various sizes which actually formed a roof on the baoli! Keeping in mind the hot scorching heat in Delhi, the architects of the baoli skilfully had designed a roof over the reservoir of the baoli to prevent loss of water through evaporation. Though the arches were all intact, one could easily notice the steel reinforcement that had recently been added when the baoli was restored.

Coming through the Bada Darwaza facing the west side, the path leads directly to the baoli. Although in close proximity to Sher mandal and Quila-iKuhna, the fenced baoli is often missed by the visitors of Old Fort.

The baoli is complete unnoticable due to its sub-terranian nature. Its a straight steep and narrow flights of steps leading right down to the shaded waters.

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(courtsey ASI)

(courtsey ASI) At the bottom of the steep well some water, although stagnant, still remains.

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Location Purana Quila, Mathura Road, to the south of the path leading to the (Qila-i-Kahna Masjid.

Ownership Locked by ASI Special Features A. PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The baoli has a well attached to it on its north-east end. The baoli has 89 steps leading to the bottom. There are landings marked by recessed niches in side walls. The catchment area of the baoli would have also been fed from underground springs. The well is still in use , though water is now pumped out.

B. DECORATIVE FEATURE: Recessed niches.

Materials Walls: Delhi quartzite stone. Floor: Delhi quartzite (arched vaults) Roof: Stone.

State of Preservation Fair Date 1540s

BAOLIS IN MEDIA “Baolis were also social networking sites”, says Jutta Jain Neubauer, the author of The Stepwells of Gujrat, the first book ever written on baolis, “where people gathered to escape the hot afternoons.” In the virtual life of today, many of us are regularly spending significant amount of time on social networking sites like facebook, twitter, myspace, trying to be close to our friends. Hundreds of years ago when technology limited our ancestors, baolis became the socil networking sites. People would come to sit in its shade and in the water’s cool vicinity. Many activities were held at baolis; debates, discussions, annual events with dance performances and people from all around would gather here to get entertained.

“Then, men dug earth to reach water and now we steer the course of rivers to force water to reach us”, says Rakshanda Jalil author of ‘Invisible City: The Hidden Monuments of Delhi’. “Compared to dams that destroy nature and communities, baolis were ecologically friendly.” Ever since the British colonisers prevented and discouraged the use of baolis, India has turned towards modern methods for accessing water. Baolis though forgotten, still hold a great potential and a bright future of water harvesting and accessing.

“Delhi-wallas gathered in baolis to flee from summer heat. There they lounged, slept, played chauser and pacheesi with friends or smoked hookahs”, says academic activists Sohail Hashmi.

Rani ki Vav

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WATER CONSERVATION

Delhi receives an annual precipitation of about 670 mm (average). A large amount of fresh water sprinkles upon this dry city brought from the famous Indian monsoons. It is a power that is going terribly waste! Delhi looking at a water crisis should have long ago popularised the idea of rainwater harvesting. During monsoons, rain water can directly be harvested from rooftops and be stored in tanks and baolis! Water from swollen rivers can also be stored to use later. The future of Delhi now lies in water conservation. Different baolis in Delhi can be used in various methods, best suiting it. For example: Taking Ugrasen ki Baoli in Connaught Place. The circular plan of Lutyen’s Delhi along with its markets built under British rule are well known to all. Supposing a network of plumbing and piping was to be devised connecting the rooftops of the buildings in Connaught Place. The water harvested from rainfall could be lead to Ugrasen ki Baoli, presently dry, and store it there for future use!

Water harvested from houses in Munirka, can be stored in Munirka ki Baoli to support the large residential colony built around it. There is an overhead tank right next to Hindu Rao Hospital. The baoli on the ridge, right next to Hindu Rao Hospital, infact sharing the same complex, can be used to fulfil many of the hospitals water needs! Now recently restored and renovated, the baoli at Nizamuddin can prove to be extremely useful to its neighbouring village if the water of the baoli is skilfully used!

Ground water unlike surface water has many advantages! Being originated inside the ground, the water is less likely to be contaminated and polluted by human population. The soil and earth offers natural filteration and most times this water doesn’t even need to be processed before drinking! Like the shoot of the plant depends on its roots for water and minerals, the future of Delhi now lies in developing the gifts given to us from our past!

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REVIEWS

Aditya, at a very young age has skillfully captured the very essence of the heritage structures through his lens. INTACH, Delhi Chapter had the privilege of using his skills as a part of Google Cultural Institute Project.

His eye for detail and dramatic compositions are the focus of the publication.

-Annabel Lopez,INTACH ,Delhi Chapter In these days of rapidly shrinking attention spans, the almost exclusive engagement with the here and now and almost all expression being reduced to a maximum of 140 characters, it is heartening to note that one young person and I hope there are more like him, has chosen to engage with history, architecture and with one of the most burning issues of our times -water.

Aditya Mehta has chosen to engage with one kind of traditional hydraulic system of the Indian Sub-Continent - the Step Well- in an effort to see if we can learn something from these structures that go back centuries. Aditya has yet to finish school, but his deep interest in water, traditional methods of water management and use and his interest in building materials and in architectural forms that evolved in response to the need to conserve water give one hope.

Hope that we might yet learn from proven practices and hope that young people like Aditya will contribute to preserving our fast depleting natural and cultural resources Sohail Hashmi .Historian,director,producer and author.

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