Embark - Winter 2020-21

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• S k i t r i p s n e a r Pa u l S m i t h s • E x p l o r e t h e S i l ve r L a ke Wi l d e r n e s s • S k i n n y S l i d e o n u p p e r Wo l f J a w M o u n t a i n • L a ke P l a c i d Sl i d e to t he Whi te f a ce s u mmi t • Prep are fo r winter cam ping • tr y a s h o r t c u t t o t h e t o p o f c l i f f M o u n t a i n

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Lake Placid Slide: An adventure in summiting Whiteface

Continued on page 3

Winter 2020-21

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climbing the Lake Placid Slide

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

The Lake Placid Slide tends to be a yearly endeavor of mine; however, on this particular trip, the cold was brutal and being exposed on the side of Whiteface Mountain probably wasn’t the wisest of choices.

Even so, we were prepared for Mother Nature’s fury.

The day started and ended with a ski, with a bit of snowshoeing and bushwhacking in the middle. Starting from state Route 86 at the winter parking lot, we had to first make our way down Connery Pond Road, which is closed off in the winter. The road was icy in spots, more so than I thought it would be, but not too bad. At the first gate, we signed in and kept a solid pace along the Whiteface Landing Trail.

Before we knew it, we had worked up a good amount of heat under the massive layering system we created, so we had to strip a little so as to not overheat and totally freeze once on the slide. The outer shell came off, and the fleece got unzipped. You could almost see the steam rising from our bodies. Because of the lack of a deep base of snow, we could hear our skis scraping some of the taller rocks along the trail, but all in all, I was pleased considering the last thaw we had. Our time to the Whiteface Landing Spur Trail was quick, and we looked forward to the almost entirely downhill ski out. We opted not to visit the landing. Instead, we kept a steady pace toward the lean-to where we would stash our skis. This section was a little trickier than I remember, but we reached the lean-to ahead of schedule.

The Whiteface Brook Lean-to is the perfect spot for an extended stay in the area. In winter, it is well sheltered from the wind and no matter what season, it base camps you perfectly for Whiteface, Eagle Eyrie, Moose Mountain if you were really adventurous, or an off-trail journey into Sunrise Notch. We removed our skis, locked them to a solid tree out of sight of the trail and donned our snowshoes for the next leg of the trip. While flat for a bit, we would soon get right into it as the trail steepens. The trail follows nicely above the brook but eventually moves away and climbs steeply to a flat spot along the trail.

This is my designated exiting point and the start of the bushwhack.

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CONTENTS

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Ski trip suggestions

9

Check out these five cross-country ski trips near Paul Smiths

Lake Placid Slide .........................................................1 5 cross-country ski trips near Paul Smiths...................4 Upper Wolf Jaw Mountain: The Skinny Slide ...............5 Starbuck and Harris Rift mountains ............................6 James C. Frenette Sr. Recreational Trails......................7 Cold-weather camping ...............................................8

Champlain Valley Check out these cross-country and snowshoe trips with CATS

Cold-weather injury protection...................................8 Snowshoe, cross-country ski outings from Champlain Area Trails ...................................................................9 Silver Lake Wilderness...............................................10 Cli Mountain: A winter shortcut tradition ...............12 Tooley Pond Mountain Loop......................................13

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State Land A closer look at the Silver Lake Wilderness

General Manager: Donna Leonard ADE Managing Editor: Peter Crowley LPN Editor: Andy Flynn Designer: Andy Flynn Email: news@adirondackdailyenterprise.com Produced by Adirondack Publishing, P.O. Box 318, 54 Broadway, Saranac Lake, NY 12983 cover photo: Cross-country skiing to Grass Pond Photo by Spencer Morrissey Although Embark is free, some of you may want to get a subscription if you live outside the circulation area or just want to guarantee yourself a copy. To have a subscription mailed to your home or business, call 518-891-2600.

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Winter 2020-21

Continued from page 1

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

The trees are not too closely knit in this area, making for a somewhat easy passage. The ever-increasing dead-fall is what slowed us down the most, but this spot kicks us out into a nice location on the brook. The final few feet to reach the brook are always the worst; it’s thick and with snowshoes and a large pack on, it’s frustrating.

The Lake Placid Slide on the south side of Whiteface is one of the best slides in the Adirondack Park for winter mountaineering. The conditions are always great with solid ice and snow that isn’t typically too deep, due to being windblown. We hit the brook below the slide, as usual. This area always has the most snow of the entire trip. I believe it gets wind loaded from all sides, creating this deep layer of fluff. We kept our snowshoes on for this section and the next as we passed by the boulder that chokes off passage.

On the opposite side of the boulder, we could see the slide developing in front of us. How much longer do we keep the snowshoes on, we asked each other? We waited a little longer, and eventually the snowshoes seemed to be less effective in certain areas, especially where it was windblown to bare ice. It was time for crampons. After some fussing around in the cold, our hands were ready for the mitts, and we decided to use some chemical hand warmers to help our digits.

The real climb now began as we meandered our way from ramp to ramp and ice section to bare rock, then back into hard-packed snow.

Slowly we made our way to the base of the low clouds, and all we could see was the steep slope ahead of us. Eventually, we saw the handrail on the steps to the summit from the castle. We aimed for them as an exit point. We ended up walking beneath the staircase until we could find a decent spot to get up on them. Once we did, we were only about 200 feet from the summit.

The summit was a brutal force of wind, one that could only be tolerated with full skin coverage and every piece of layering we had. Not a speck of skin was seen, not even a gap on our forehead. We lounged around for almost 10 minutes, taking pictures and playing around. We then decided to remove ourselves from the exposure and start our descent back down to the car.

On our descent, we used the trail, mainly because it is safer but also because it is much quicker to get to dinner that way. The trail was a piece of cake, and a bit of butt sliding quickened our progress. Eventually, we put our snowshoes back on so we wouldn’t posthole the trail for the next group. We were quickly back down to our skis and gliding our way back along the trail and to the car.

As a warning, a slide climb is not something for beginners. You might want to consider having a guide or try out some easier, less steep slide first. Proper gear and experience is a must.

Buildings on the summit of Whiteface Mountain

Winter 2020-21

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5 cross-country ski trips near Paul Smiths

By SPENCER MORRISSEY Sheep Meadow

DIFFICULTY: Easy to intermediate DISTANCE: 6.8 miles, round-trip PERKS: This trail is a mostly gentle ski to a backcountry meadow surrounded by foothills. The scenery is nice, and it can be easily enjoyed as you ski an old woods roads.

OBSTACLES: Under heavy snow coverage, it can be a bit harder to reach the destination due to having to break trail.

DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of state routes 30 and 86 at Paul Smith’s College, follow Route 30 and go for 3.75 miles to Slush Pond Road on the left. Directly across the road from the unplowed Slush Pond Road is the Hayes Brook Trail parking. Drive this road carefully to the parking area. Follow the road on foot for about 0.25 miles to the trail on the left.

Slush Pond Road

DIFFICULTY: Easy DISTANCE: 4.0 miles, round-trip PERKS: Slush Pond Road is a seasonal road that follows a downhill course over easy terrain to the Shore of Slush Pond. The road is two cars wide and easy for the entire family. This road gets used quite often by skiers, but it also has snowmobile use. This seasonal road doesn’t need much snow to be a nice ski.

OBSTACLES: None DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of state routes 30 and 86 at Paul Smith’s College, follow Route 30 and go for 3.75 miles to Slush Pond Road on the left. Directly across the road from the unplowed Slush Pond Road is the Hayes Brook Trail parking. Drive this road carefully to the parking area. You will need to walk back to and cross Route 30 to access Slush Pond Road.

Grass Pond

DIFFICULTY: Easy DISTANCE: 4.0 miles, round-trip PERKS: This is an excellent beginner’s ski trail. With a wide course and gentle rolling terrain, it can’t be beat. At Grass Pond, you have the luxury of a lean-to for a comfortable spot for lunch and a hot drink. Be

Bloomingdale Bog

on the lookout for a crazy otter living in the area. He loves to show off.

Located along an old road, even light coverage allows for skiing.

OBSTACLES: This is an excellent beginner level ski and snowshoe free of difficult obstacles and terrain.

DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of state routes 30 and 86 at Paul Smith’s College, follow Route 30 and go for 3.75 miles to Slush Pond Road on the left. Directly across the road from the unplowed Slush Pond Road is the Hayes Brook Trail parking. Drive this road carefully to the parking area. Continue to follow the road on foot for about 0.25 miles to the trail on the left.

Bloomingdale Bog

DIFFICULTY: Easy DISTANCE: The distance on this trail can be altered depending on how long you wish to be out. It is 3.8 miles from end to end.

PERKS: This is an old railroad grade that is open to the elements, so it doesn’t take much snow to gather a nice coating for an early season ski.

OBSTACLES: Trying to decide which end to start from — the Saranac Lake side or the Bloomingdale side.

DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of state routes 30 and 86 at Paul Smith’s College, follow Route 86 toward Saranac Lake. The trailhead not marked off Route 86 is roughly 3.5 miles north of Saranac Lake.

PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Fish Pond Truck Trail

Ski to Grass Pond 4

DIFFICULTY: Intermediate DISTANCE: 9.4 miles, round trip PERKS: The course is wide and flat at the beginning but will soon come to a short climb over a small knob which is the height-of-land along the trail. The descent on the other side is a nice one but not very aggressive. The road ends at Fish Pond near a lean-to, which is an excellent spot for a hot toddy.

OBSTACLES: Possible small sections of bare ground in the early season, but minimal.

DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of state routes 30 and 86 at Paul Smith’s College, follow Route 30 to Lake Clear. Pass through Lake Clear and locate Fish Hatchery Road on the right. The Little Clear Pond Access Road will be down on the right. Park here. Follow the Little Clear Pond Access Road to the railroad tracks. Cross the tracks, and take a left. After about 0.75 miles, the Fish Pond Truck Trail will be on the right.

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Winter 2020-21

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Upper Wolf Jaw Mountain: The Skinny Slide

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

The Skinny Slide on Upper Wolf Jaw Mountain used to be a small scar on the face of the peak, but after Tropical Storm Irene came through, that scar was stretched and made a large path through the Forest Preserve.

I had been on the old slide a couple of times and the new one not long after the storm hit in August 2011, and I find this to be a fascinating winter adventure. Please keep in mind that slide climbing is dangerous, even more so without proper gear. If you have never done a slide, especially in the winter, it might behoove you to hire a guide or go with an experienced partner the first couple of times.

Leaving from the Garden trailhead in Keene valley, we made spot-on time over “the highway,” referred to as the North Side Trail, into the interior outpost. After a short break on the porch of the cabin, we adjusted our packs and continued. Crossing the suspension bridge was a nice treat that ate up another few minutes for taking pictures. Once back in the woods on a trail with fewer distractions, we moved along rather quickly until we started taking more pictures of the scars left by Irene. I am always so amazed at the luck — the lean-to got spared by the landslide. Could you imagine waking up to that loud commotion of boulders, earth and trees sliding by?

We continued following the trail to the water source that the slide followed, which is no more than a tiny stream. Once on the slide, we decided to stick with snowshoes, not crampons. The snow was deep, and the ice not so threatening, and we needed the floatation. But that would soon change.

We found ourselves looking up at an imposing cliff of yellowish ice, and with a quick look at each other and no need for words, we started changing into full crampons. Now with fingers numb and hopes high, we started to pick apart the cliff in sections. We stuck to the areas with more snow coverage in the hope of better traction and bite. We meandered up the steep slope with only one small section of caution, but it

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ended up being much less of an issue than it looked from below. We kept the snowshoes off in anticipation of more ice, and it was so delivered, but none as extreme as before. Maybe we just felt more confident.

We topped off over the headwall and back into the woods, where very deep snow welcomed us. The snowshoes went back on as we sunk crotch deep in spots where it was wind loaded.

In the woods, we had a bit of navigation to do, but using the rule of up, we had no real issues. The biggest problem was circumnavigating and pulling ourselves up over small pitches and modest rocky shelves.

It’s amazing how everything looks so different in the winter and how much harder bushwhacking can be when you are fighting unconsolidated snow. The forest opened up as we approached the Great Range Trail, and then we were there. We had come out about 0.1 miles from the actual summit. We quickly topped off, ate our partially frozen lunch, changed into dry shirts to wick away the chill. I added moleskin to a couple of blisters on my heel, and down we went.

We opted not to attempt the ice on the slide as a descent route, and a few in the party wanted to summit Lower Wolf Jaw, so we descended via the Great Range Trail down to Wolf Jaw Notch. This descent was very fast, and the few who wanted Lower Wolf Jaw went ahead as a couple of us choses not to go. I had previously been on Lower Wolf Jaw a few times in winter, so I stayed back with those who opted out.

We waited at the col for them, just to be safe.

They must have been all but running up that peak because it took them no time at all to get back down, which was very good, because the winter chill of standing still was settling into my bones. A final break at the lean-to proved to be the opportunity that stiffened up the muscles, but the break at the lean-to on the North Side Trail attested to be the one we should have avoided.

To reiterate my previous comment, slide climbing is not for everyone and should be approached with caution and care. Never go alone, and for the first time you should consider going with a professional guide.

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5

Starbuck and Harris Rift mountains

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

Arriving about a week and a half later to the same region, we found ourselves attracted to Starbuck and Harris Rift mountains in the Hudson River Gorge Tract.

We met up at the OK Slip Falls Trail since it was an easy place for everyone to converge. Then we caravanned south down state Route 28 to an access point for the primitive area. This access is a tough one to find in the winter as the sign for the boys camp has been removed. But if you can locate the gated road with an empty sign post, you’ve got it made.

Parking along the road, we decided to strap on our snowshoes for better traction and to relieve any issue of post-holing for the nearly 10mile hike. We jumped up on the ridge early and started our steep ascent of Starbuck Mountain.

This aspect of the mountain was littered with small rocky edges — and snow nearly as solid. As we climbed high on the ridge, we enjoyed a more relaxed slope and views that started to show our surroundings.

We began with slightly filtered views through the trees and then more open ones. Then, around the corner, we had a flat platform that offered jaw-dropping views to the east and south, and we were not yet on the summit. The summit was about a quarter of a mile away through slightly thicker spruce and balsam stands, which covered several small rocky seams in the landscape. It was a unique layout, for sure.

The actual summit of Starbuck was wooded, but we appreciated the prior views along the lower slopes of this peak, so we were not that disappointed.

Now we would be off to Harris Rift Mountain, which was off the far end of Starbuck Mountain — 1.8 miles as the crow flies. That essentially meant more than 2 miles of solid bushwhacking through unknown terrain. Starbuck is one of the largest expanses of mountain I can think of. It was also made up of several smaller high and low points, which added many more feet of combined elevation change.

The forest, fortunately for us, was open and welcoming up to the final climb along the ridge to the shoulder of the final summit. It was steep, on the lee side of the wind, and it was damaged. The heavy winds and harsh winters had left a portion of this slope littered like pickup sticks, and with the lack of snow and the snowshoes strapped to our feet, it was hard to maneuver. Above the field of dead trees was a thick stand of spruce, also fighting for harsh weather survival. We now started our descent to the deep saddle with Harris Rift Mountain. We needed to descend nearly 500 feet in just over a quarter of a mile, a feat we feared might include dead-ends.

We started out heading through thick growth balsams — soft to the touch but dense and difficult to wallow through. Eventually it opened, and the steepness of the north side got much more intense. We now contended with slippery terrain and snow that was not penetrable with snowshoes. We used bare ground when we could, but that too was solid so we used a couple of dead and downed trees. A couple standing trees gave us something to aim for as we glissaded down, nearly uncontrollably at times. At the end, we stopped at the scattered boulders in the deep cleft of the mountain range.

Next we went up, and this would be an adventure in itself. This side of Harris Rift is steep and guarded by some serious cliffs. Where we came down wasn’t all that bad of a location to start up. While the traction was below par, managed to reach the base of the bluff. I continued up a small ravine to check out the safety of the climb in this area, but I felt it was too risky, so we ended up heading down a bit and to the left.

The next location wasn’t as bad, but still a bit clenching, if you know what I mean. If it were not for ice and the awkwardness of snowshoes, it would have been an easy scramble. The three of us pushed on and one went for the easier path, which was right around the next bend.

Atop here, the views started to appear, but it also seemed as though we had dead-ended ourselves. The route I saw from below looked great, but once upon it, it was not a valid avenue of ascent. However, with some poking around, we found an easy route up a steep embankment of frozen moss and open rock. Upon the ridge, we had an easy walk to the open summit and nearly 180 degrees of outstanding views.

After a lengthy break in the sun enjoying some hot tea, we started our exit back to the trailhead. Depending on which map you look at, there is a trail that runs or used to run through the valley between P Gay and Starbuck Mountains. We aimed for that and prayed that it 6

Starbuck Mountain

would be there. To do so, we needed to descend the long narrow ridge toward that valley. The ridge line was quite impressive, with continual views along most of its expanse. A couple of steep sections along the way exited us into a secondary valley, which we then needed to climb out of to reach the one we wanted to be in. We essentially had to climb up the main valley.

Moving swiftly through the open forest and scattered deer yards, we made good time on the ascent. The top of the valley was where the old trail or forest road was located, we hoped. Then, to our surprise, we actually walked right upon it. About wide enough for an old carriage, it was starting to get grown in and in some areas had pretty much disappeared. Whenever we lost it, it didn’t take much distance before we stood atop it again. As it led us through a frozen wetland and along the pond of another, we had additional mountain views as the steep slopes of the foothills came down to meet us.

Eventually, we were back on the access road we started on earlier that day and happy to be so, something I made apparent under my breath, but I am sure we all felt the torment of sore muscles and empty bellies.

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cranberry Pond

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

TU PP E R L A KE S KI I N G

James C. Frenette Sr. Recreational Trails

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

There’s nothing like cross-country skiing in a Nordic center with a really huge pack on your back and snowshoes attached to that. We always get some of the craziest looks from others, but these centers are great training tools for trail skiing. Where backcountry trails sometimes lack the ample snow depths and good conditions until late in the season for training, the network at the James C. Frenette Sr. Recreational Trails in Tupper Lake does not.

Of course, I would be lying if I said that was the only reason we go there. We also love the center to get a good few laps of skiing in for a cardiovascular workout. On this day, we managed to get in both.

Corenne and I enjoy combining skiing and snowshoeing, especially when considering long days on the trail. In a case like this, we were planning to do several High Peaks over the winter that involved ski approaching to the base of the mountain and then snowshoeing to the summit. We had Seward, Allen, Colvin, Blake, Sawteeth and a few others on our radar for this kind of approach.

The problem with this is the large pack we carry in the winter. We have everything to fill our trail needs and the needs of an emergency — if something were to happen and we needed to spend the night in the woods. Our packs exceed 25 pounds in the winter without blinking an eye. Then we strap snowshoes to the back and the skis to our feet, and we go. The problem of skiing with a big pack, for me anyhow, is balance; these trails help me get my legs under me before we head out on the trail to do more demanding undertakings. The trails also help me get used to the large pack on my back.

Hitting the road, we ended up at the Tupper Lake Country Club trails late in the morning, with a slight overcast around us. We greeted a few people who asked us what we were doing with such large packs and wide skis. We explained our idea of winter approach skiing and training. They thought it was odd to do it here, but they went along with it.

We started out on the Golf Course Loop, which is where the system Winter 2020-21

starts. We immediately entered the trees on a nicely groomed surface before being kicked back out onto the fairway, oddly similar to my approach at golfing. As we made our way down the course, we quickly came to the Cranberry Pond Trail and decided to follow this in a counterclockwise direction. We quickly worked our way along the pond, but I needed to explore so I decided to drop over the embankment onto the pond for better pictures, this was fine until I needed to get back up the embankment, which was way too steep in this spot to try. I skied the edge, and the trail eventually came down to me.

Moving on, we came to the Little Logger Loop, which is more of an intermediate ski trail. Again, we went in a counterclockwise direction.

We encountered a decent little hill part way in; it was nice to get a bit of elevation under our belts. We progressed rather quickly and got our heart rates up. We decided to pass by the Big Tupper Trail. Then we headed left along an old woods/skidder road and continued on the Little Logger Loop.

This was an easy kick and glide that quickly brought us to the back portion of the trail, which was not groomed at all. This was what we wanted — to push through deep snow with no trail and really get a good workout. It didn’t last long. Soon it was groomed once again, but we did get some distance in and left the trail for a while to get a few extra feet of breaking trail under our belts.

Then it finally came — a nice little hill to fall on, I mean ride out.

We coasted along this S-turned downhill section with the wind in our hair, knees bent, arms forward and fingers crossed. It was a nice little ride. My skis chattered and at one point one got locked in the track, but almost as soon as it got stuck, I removed it to ski on one leg for a few feet (I didn’t know I could do that trick). We soon found ourselves back by Cranberry Pond and then back on the golf course.

We continued around that trail just to finish it off on our list of things to do. Back at the parking lot, we ran into another couple with curiosity on their minds, but they didn’t ask any questions.

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7

Cold-weather camping

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

Here are some tips on cold-weather camping in the Adirondacks.

1) Backpack: a) You can use your summer pack, but on occasion, because of the bulkiness of the winter gear, you may need a slightly larger pack for the winter. Avoid strapping too much stuff on the outside to prevent it from getting wet on your travels into camp.

2) Sleeping bag: a) If you picked up that 0-degree bag for the fall, that might be enough for you. You could also just get a 20-degree liner to add warmth. A 0-degree bag is the least I would recommend in winter. A 20 degree is even better. Winter is when a down bag is perfect. It stashes tightly and weighs much less. Other gear is going to end up weighing more, and you will need the room. Mummy bags are best for the winter because they fit tighter and have less dead air space to warm you up; this reduces cold spots. Be careful not to get the down wet. If you plan an outing where damp and wet environments might be a factor, go with a synthetic bag.

3) Sleeping pad: a) Best used are closed cell or foam pads for insulation. Inflatable pads can contain moisture from your breath and turn cold as it freezes. Maybe use both, placing a foam pad under an insulated one.

It’s a bit more to carry, but the ground can be cold on your back.

4) Tent: a) Yes, you should get a winter tent. Sleeping in a lean-to is very cold, and the lean-tos tend to get windy. Plus, it is illegal to put a tarp up over the opening. A winter tent will retain body heat, and this will increase the temperature inside 10 or more degrees. Winter tents don’t have as much ventilation and usually no mesh, only small ventilation ports. This holds in vital warmth. Winter tents unfortunately are much more expensive, heavy and bulky. Winter tents are also stronger with sturdier poles and thicker fabric to withstand snow loading and heavy winter winds.

5) Cooking stuff: a) Not many changes here, except for fuel type. Leave canisters at home and use white gas. Canisters tend to freeze up, and you don’t use the entire amount. White gas works under cold, extreme conditions. Over the years, the canisters have improved, but if you go that route, be sure to keep them warm when not in use.

6) Clothing: a) Clothing around camp is another step. This is so important; you need skin protection against the elements, and warmth starts here.

Use that fleece, mid- to heavy-weight underwear, hat, light gloves and a down jacket. Keep your feet warm with down booties. Sleep a little under-dressed; it will feel cool at first, but you will warm up and so will the dead spaces in your sleeping bag.

7) Other tricks: a) Try putting a warm bottle of water in your sleeping bag — cap on tight!

b) Eat a little more before bed; your body will produce heat trying to digest the food. This can cause a slightly unrestful sleep for some. Higher in carbohydrates are best, like pasta. c) Get two sleeping bags that mate with one another, and sleep with your partner. This helps if the other person agrees. d) Bring extra batteries for your light. They will be on much more when the woods get dark earlier. e) Bring more fuel. It burns less efficient in the winter, and you may need to melt snow for water. f) Store your water bottles in your tent, upside down, and start with warm water. This will slow the freezing process. Water freezes next to air, so if the air is at the bottom of the water bottle, the bottom will freeze and not the top, leaving you with drinkable water. Think of it like a pond; the bottom of a pond never freezes. g) Go to bed early, and get up early. h) Keep clothes and boot liners in your sleeping bag with you at night so they are warm in the morning. i) Bring travel games or a book to read in the tent. j) Keep your cellphone warm. k) Use lithium batteries. l) Bring a pee bottle so you don’t have to get out of the tent.

Mark it clearly as to not mistake it for a water bottle (I don’t feel I need to explain why).

As you may have noticed, things change a little at first then much more extreme later on. Winter camping is not easy and should not be taken lightly. Do your research early so you are ready. Look for deals on overstock and leftover gear. Ask questions from those who have done it. Take a guided winter expedition course. You have time, and I am sure a ton of questions.

Cold-weather injury protection

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

The following information is for educational purposes and should never be considered a substitute for proper training or experience in the field. I am not a doctor or a professor or any sort of licensed professional in cold-related injury or prevention.

I am an avid outdoorsman who, through experience and study has learned about the values or protecting yourself this time of year. With that being said, information changes and new practices and gear are being offered every year. You should do your own research and try out different gear to see what works best for you.

I am not licensed or certified to teach cold injury treatment, and I recommend a course in Wilderness First Aid or Wilderness First Responder so you know what to do if you need to temporarily treat yourself or someone else for cold injuries while in the field.

Hypothermia

Hypothermia is “a decrease in the core body temperature to a level at which normal muscular and cerebral functions are impaired.” There are 8

several things that can lead up to hypothermia, such as, cold temperatures, improper clothing, getting wet, exhaustion, dehydration, lack of food and drinking alcohol.

As outdoor enthusiasts we are susceptible to hypothermia year-round through all forms of cold temperature transfer, such as: ¯ Evaporation, when the sweat on our body cools; ¯ Conduction, being in contact with the cold element; ¯ Convection, cold wind above tree line; and ¯ Radiation, cold air temperature differences.

Prevention has a lot to do with your preparation and knowledge of hypothermia and the signs of an onset. Watch for the “umbles” is what I was always taught: stumbles, mumbles, fumbles and grumbles, which show changes in motor coordination and levels of consciousness and awareness. Shivering will become involuntary, and the ability to do some activates will be limited, but the victim may still be able to walk.

There are a few factors in susceptibility to hypothermia that in many cases you might not have control over. A thinner person is more apt to

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Continued on page 11 Winter 2020-21

It’s a bright morning after a heavy overnight snow — a great day to snowshoe or cross-country ski in the Adirondack Park. But today you want to ski through woodlands and fields on low hills instead of endless slogs on forested mountains or “highway” skiing on groomed courses. Plus, you want to ski for a couple of hours, not all day. Hopefully, you’ll be the first, and break trail.

Where do you go? Try the Champlain Area Trails network in New York’s Champlain Valley.

CATS trails have an inspiring history. As the last part added to the Adirondack Park, the Champlain Valley has little public land and until CATS began in 2009, it had few hiking trails. That’s when CATS embarked on a new path to making trails. It reached out to landowners to have trails through revocable agreements. As a land trust, CATS also conserved properties and made permanent trails.

To date, CATS has created more than 60 miles of trails with the goals of linking communities, connecting people with nature and promoting economic vitality. CATS hosts town-to-town Grand Hikes and “challenge hikes” which people complete to get commemorative patches. Every year, CATS updates and publishes comprehensive maps of trails in the Champlain Valley.

Reach for your CATS map, and see you’ve got two of them—one is of the northern valley—that’s Clinton County. And the other is the central valley—Essex County. Open that one, and check out the legend showing trails good for cross-country skiing.

Starting in the north, you see the Poke-O-Moonshine Observer’s Trail, a 5-mile round trip that’s a challenging ski through forests on the popular state-owned mountain. It mostly follows a fairly wide path, so you can usually slow down if it gets too steep.

In Willsboro, you see a number of trails good for skiing—Riverside, High Point and Ancient Oak are a few — but your eye goes to Sophie’s Lair, which offers up to 7 miles of skiing on a network of trails with easy ups and downs through woodlands and by fields. That’s a good one because at various points you can choose to go back to the trailhead and then to Turtle Island Cafe or Essex Inn for apres ski refreshments.

Essex has a whole network of trails. You notice the Bobcat Trail on Walker Road west of Whallonsburg. You may have hiked there last summer and have nice memories of a bird-filled meadow, diverse woods and a series of beaver ponds. At the southern end, there’s a nice straight downhill leading out into a field that would be fun to ski.

Then there is Westport and all its trails. State-owned Split Rock Wild Forest offers miles of trails with some going down to the lake and others that look across it to Vermont. DaCy Meadow, Viall’s Crossing, and Wildway Passage Trails all look good, and because you may invite a friend who has only skied once, you may focus on Hidden Quarry Trail. Almost a mile long, it goes through easy fields and friendly forests and then by an old quarry that supplied stones for the nearby Route 22/9N. If the timing is right, after the ski you can get a beer at Ledge Hill Brewery.

Then you look farther south. McConley Spring Trail in Moriah looks to be a moderate and enjoyable trail. Coot Hill has a great view but is more difficult. Penfield Pond in Crown Point offers a fun and fairly

coot Hill

PHOTOS BY CATS

Snowshoe, cross-country ski outings from Champlain Area Trails

easy ski along the lake near the historic village. Then there’s Ticonderoga and the miles of diverse trails through the open forests of Pharoah Lake Wilderness or in town along the LaChute River.

So, it’s time to get out and explore new trails. Knowing they aren’t crowded, you gather your gear, put it in the car and smile knowing you’ll soon be breaking trail on a snowy Champlain Area Trail.

Champlain Area Trails is a nonprofit organization that saves land, makes trails, connects people with nature and promotes economic vitality in New York’s Champlain Valley. Information on CATS events, activities and trails is available at www.champlainareatrails.com and by following CATS on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

To get free copies of the CATS maps, call 518-962-2287, email info@champlainareatrails.com or visit the website.

Discover the low peaks of the Champlain Valley. Short hikes on easy terrain on 60 miles of CATS trails.

For our free maps of the Central and Northern Champlain Valley, call 518.962.2287 or visit www.champlainareatrails.com Winter 2020-21

EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out

9

PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Buckhorn Lake

Poplar Mountain summit

Silver Lake Wilderness

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

This wilderness area is 106,770 acres and is designated as the fourth largest wilderness in the Adirondack Forest Preserve. Its namesake Silver Lake lies in the center of the wilderness along the Northville-Placid Trail, which bisects the wilderness.

The Silver Lake Wilderness has numerous named and unnamed peaks but is known for having four peaks exceeding 3,000 feet (Dugway, Swart, Hamilton and Speculator mountains).

Hiking

There is only one main designated trail and one spur trail in this unit with 23 miles of the Northville-Placid Trail that passes from Upper Benson to Piseco. The trail can be accessed from several trailheads, all of which include parking areas.

The state Route 8 NPT Trailhead in Piseco is often used to access Priests Vly and Buckhorn Lake.

The West River Road or Whitehouse NPT Trailhead is best used for short hikes and other untrailed locations but is also used to access the East Branch Path The Godfrey Road NPT Trailhead off the end of Benson Road was relocated to the below location to reduce roadside walking and improve the trail experience, but it is still accessible today for quicker access to the ponds The Benson Road NPT Trailhead was built later in 2014 and used by those wishing to complete the entire NPT. It also easily accesses Woods Lake and the rock views from Little and Middle Cathead Mountains (no trails to mountains).

The North Branch Trailhead is unmarked and unmaintained and in some areas is quite hard to follow, but it does access the base of peaks with views and waterways that offer fishing opportunities.

The White Lake Path or Silver Lake Outlet Path leaves from the North Branch Path noted above and is tough to follow. It doesn’t actually go to White Lake but gets the user close and seems to eventually end.

The East Branch Path is accessed off from the end of West River 10

Road or Whitehouse and is a nice location to see a narrowing of the river where rock walls meet the waters, offering a rugged hike but slightly hazardous one. Be very careful here and don’t let taking pictures distract your feet.

Camping

Be sure to go to the state Department of Environmental Conservation website at www.dec.ny.gov for general information on backcountry camping, which includes how-to and safety tips and links to rules and regulations.

All designated primitive tent sites, campsites and lean-tos are available on a first-come, first-served basis and cannot be reserved. Designated campsites are marked with a yellow “Camp Here” disc.

Designated tent sites are for tents only. There are 33 designated primitive tent sites in the wilderness.

Silver Lake, Mud Lake and Hamilton Lake Stream along the Northville-Placid Trail each have a lean-to on their shores which are great opportunities for camping, but don’t ever rely on them being available.

Fishing

The Silver Lake Wilderness provides an abundance of opportunities for anglers. The West Branch of the Sacandaga River which offers 18 miles of fishing in the wilderness for brook and brown trout, not to mention numerous lakes and ponds that are all excellent for brook trout.

Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing

Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are popular winter activities on the Northville-Placid Trail and are usually found to be in good condition.

However, the herd paths may be less than favorable, and winter travel could be very tough.

The Whitehouse access along West River Road may not be plowed in the winter and should be avoided if not plowed.

EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out

Winter 2020-21

Continued from page 8

get cold and lose core body temperature faster than a bigger person due to a lack of natural insulation from fat. A person living in cold temperate climates such as Alaska are more apt to be able to withstand colder temperatures than a person living in Hawaii, due to that person’s body regulations. Proper layering is the one thing you have the most control over and should not be ignored or skimped on.

Cold appendages, frost nip and frostbite

These are the three stages for a second cold-weather injury and one that is seen more often. They are seen mostly to the appendages (fingers, toes, nose, ears, cheeks, etc.).

1. Cold reaction, which is the pale look your skin gets when it is too cold, should be a good warning to cover up your exposed skin. The area could be a little numb and should be very uncomfortable.

2. Frost nip is the freezing of the top layer of skin, and attention is needed ASAP to avoid any further damage. The damage can be fixed at this point, but you may become more susceptible to cold injury in that area in the future. Rewarm the area gently and DO NOT RUB the affected area. Ice crystals have started to form under the skin, and they can cause damage to the tissue. Placing the affected area in a warm region of the body like an armpit or the stomach of a partner works great.

3. Frostbite is when all layers of the skin are frozen. Under advanced frostbite, some muscle and bone are frozen as well. It is likely to have permanent damage once advanced frostbite sets in. You can use the same technique as for frost nip to rewarm the area, but it is very important to get out of the woods and seek medical treatment.

These three cold injuries happen due to some of the same reasoning as for hypothermia. ¯ Evaporation is when the sweat on our body cools very quickly.

Spilling fuel on a bare hand and causing a super cooling effect through evaporation can cause almost instant frost nip or frostbite. Always wear gloves when in contact with fuel. ¯ Conduction occurs when you are in contact with the cold, such as holding or touching bare metal for too long. ¯ Convection happens in cold wind above tree line. Exposed skin is the first to get affected — cheeks, ears and the gapper on the forehead.

It can even happen when your skin is exposed while trying to take pictures without a liner on your hands. ¯ Radiation happens during cold-air temperature differences throughout an extended period of time.

Injuries to the face, ears and nose are typically due to exposure and not being covered. Balaclavas are an excellent source of protection and are lightweight and comfortable.

Injuries to the hands are sometimes due to prolonged exposure, but in many cases the hands becoming wet. A pair of waterproof/ breathable gloves and/or mitts are essential in the pack as well as glove liners. The glove liners add warmth and protection when you need to remove the outer glove to take a picture or wipe your goggles.

The feet most often get injured because they get wet from either water or sweat. Carry a spare pair of socks and a grocery bag (vapor barrier) just in case. Don’t skimp on the footwear, they are always in contact with the snow and cold surfaces, so they need to be warm, broken in, waterproof and sized correctly.

To prevent these injuries, you should consider reading more about layering basics. Hypothermia and frost-related injuries are the most common in the Adirondacks, and you should know what you’re getting into. Prevention is the best medicine, they say, and that is the truth. But equally so is experience and education. The difference here is education can be done in the warmth of a classroom, but I don’t recommend it.

Take a wilderness medicine course in the winter with hands-on activities and scenarios outside. I took Wilderness First Responder through SOLO in January and February. It was ridiculously cold with mornings below zero. We went out anyhow. It was a priceless education.

Experience obviously comes from being outside in the winter. Start small and close to home if you feel uncomfortable. Your first winter outdoor experience should not be on the biggest and most difficult peak 15 miles back in the woods, but on a half-day hike or ski. I could go on for quite some time on cold-weather injuries and possible scenarios, but let this be a start in a never-ending educational process in which you should always be evolving.

Winter 2020-21

EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out

11

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

view back down cliff Mountain

Cliff Mountain: A winter shortcut tradition

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

As many of you may know, Cliff Mountain, standing at 3,944 feet, is part of the Adirondack 46 High Peaks, but under current criteria, that just doesn’t measure up.

When the 46 High Peaks were originally measured, Cliff was surveyed at being over 4,000 feet in elevation, later to be revealed as not.

Cliff Mountain is still on the list, as it should be. It was one of the original peaks and adds some good climbing to the mix.

Located behind Mount Marcy, Cliff often shares its glory with Redfield, at least for those who want to bag two peaks in one day. When it comes to winter climbing, it often gets to be a stand-alone peak because adding Redfield on the same day is more than many can bite off.

With this being the case, some clever winter mountaineers have developed a winter route — also known as “Cliff Direct.” This route will gain the climber the summit of Cliff directly from Flowed Lands, hence the name. Most just call it “that bushwhack route from Flowed Lands.”

While I wouldn’t call this a tradition for most, it has become a traditional winter route for those who know about it and those who follow.

When we reached Upper Works, we shared the trailhead parking with only two other cars; their hoods were well coated in a snow frosting. Apparently, they had been here for a few days. Now suiting up for the balmy 20-degree, 5 a.m. start, we were pleased to not have to wear excessive layers to battle the cold that settled in a few days earlier. A light southwest wind was predicted to bring in near 40-degree temperatures by mid-day. I wasn’t sure if that was good or bad for snowshoeing, but I knew my digits would be happy.

We moved along the trail as though we were going to be late for last call. In all honesty, the first portion of this trail along old wooded roads is a cake walk and a great way to gain distance and make some really good time. We also didn’t even know if “Cliff Direct” had been broken out and developed for the season yet. If it wasn’t, we would have one heck of a battle on the steep slopes to summit.

The trail to Flowed Lands was as hard as concrete. If it weren’t for the traction (and the lack of will to carry them on our back), we could have skipped the snowshoes. Flying by the Henderson Monument, I started to get my mind rolling about a near future climb on Calamity Mountain, but that’s another story.

Soon we stood at Flowed Lands and were signing into the trail register. What’s this? Someone else was here a few days ago doing this exact route. We still didn’t know if they made it all the way or not. The wind was howling and not with that warm breeze we had hoped for.

12

The wind not only battled us; it completely covered any sign of a trail over the frozen Flowed Lands. We had a rough idea of the location on the other side, so we angled for the peninsula named Livingston Point.

Once we arrived at the lean-to on the point, we tried to find any sign of a herd path. Walking in circles and meandering around like a lost beaver, we decided to go for it. We couldn’t find any herd path; maybe the other group gave up, or maybe it just wasn’t where we thought it should be. We had plenty of time to make our own route. It wasn’t quite 8 a.m. yet. We dropped over the hill near the lean-to and down into drainage for Livingston Pond, then over a small rise to another lowland area and BINGO, there it was. The herd path was faint from being blown over, but it was good enough to follow.

Now on the herd path, we could breathe easier. At least we had a direction of travel that might avoid the massive blowdown fields that we were warned about on this side of the mountain. The path gained us elevation very fast and led us over to the main drainage that ran near some massive cliffs. The path never really advanced to the brook but stayed high and offered us almost instant gratification of views. The views just kept getting better as the summits of Iroquois and Algonquin started to pop out over the trees.

Soon we were in the forest where the herd path avoided most of the thick groups of balsam and spruce, although a few seemed to just push through. The path, as you can imagine, was constructed of numerous small and large switchbacks to avoid minor cliffs and dense stands of conifers, but we were OK with that. The summit was literally right there looming in front of us.

A short section of four-legged climbing was involved, but the traction was decent. We knew this would be the crown of the summit, and sure enough, shortly after, we were there. I must say, the views in winter are far more dramatic than the ones in the other seasons. The 4 feet of snow we were standing on sure helped lift us over the spruce and standing snags. There were wide open vistas, High Peaks right in your face, and the motivation to try for Redfield. OK, I wouldn’t go that far, we only wanted to climb Cliff, so we did an about-face and descended the herd path back to Flowed Lands.

We were at the trail register near Flowed Lands in about an hour from leaving the summit. It’s not that we ran. We literally just slid off the mountain. The herd path was now so well developed and steep that we could butt slide and glissade our way to the base of the peak in no time at all. The remaining 4 miles came a bit slower. We were so far ahead of schedule we just moseyed our way back to the car.

EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out

Winter 2020-21

Tooley Pond Mountain Loop

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

Try the Tooley Pond Mountain this winter.

Winter overview and trail conditions: Tooley Pond Mountain (1,785 feet) used to be a fire tower peak. I guess it still is in some respects, but the tower itself is gone. The tower now resides on Cathedral Rock on the Ranger School property.

From the parking area off Tooley Pond Road, locate the 2.25-mile loop trail across the road and a bit farther down. In the winter due to lack of use, the trailhead can be obscured slightly, but the trail is still easy to follow. The trail register is a little up the trail. From the register, the trail stays rather flat and follows high above Tooley Pond. As the trail sweeps away, the grade slowly increases but never too steep.

Just prior to the summit, there is a split; right leads back to Tooley Pond Road and is the continuation of the loop, and left heads a little steeply uphill for a few hundred feet to the summit. There are decent views from the one side looking into the foothills of the Adirondacks.

Imagine the beauty of the views when the fire tower reached high into the sky.

To finish the loop, head back down the trail and continue straight (left at the fork). The trail descends rapidly to the low lands before exiting on Tooley Pond Road. You will be roughly 0.3 miles from your car. Take a right on Tooley Pond Road, and walk the edge back to the parking lot. Plan on average about 2.5 to 3 hours for the snowshoe loop, unless it’s fresh unbroken snow, and then maybe a bit longer.

Trailhead location: From the intersection of state routes 3 and 30 in the village of Tupper Lake, follow Route 3 for 27 miles through the hamlet of Cranberry Lake to Tooley Pond Road. Turn down Tooley Pond Road and continue for around 6 miles to the trailhead parking on the right. The trail is across and slightly farther up the road.

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