Embark - Spring 2020

T R ANS I T IO N

A snowy Mount Marcy towers over Lake Placid last year on May 17.

Spring 2020

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PHOTO BY LOU REUTER

SEA SON

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CONTENTS

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Spring paddling

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Early-season canoeing and kayaking can be dangerous but satisfying

Send us your photos....................................................3 On the water early ......................................................4 Bushwhacking terms ................................................10 Trip report.................................................................14

Wildlife A closer look at porcupines in the Adirondacks

Spring safety.............................................................16 Rising waters ............................................................17 Gear care...................................................................18 Campfires..................................................................20

E M B AR K Brought to you by the publishers of the

THE LAKE PLACID NEWS and

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Spring hiking Hikers have to be ready for anything this time of year

Publisher: Catherine Moore Managing Editor: Peter Crowley Editor: Morgan Ryan Designer: Morgan Ryan Email: sports@adirondackguide.com Produced by Adirondack Publishing, P.O. Box 318, 54 Broadway, Saranac Lake, NY 12983 Cover photo: Corenne Black paddles on Stony Creek.

Photo by Spencer Morrissey Although Embark is free, some of you may want to get a subscription if you live outside the circulation area or just want to guarantee yourself a copy. To have a subscription mailed to your home or business, call 518-891-2600.

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Spring 2020

Send us your photos ...

Embark magazine looks forward to displaying your outdoor-related photographs in future editions. This photo of a foraging song sparrow was taken by Lou Reuter. Send your submissions to sports@adirondackguide.com.

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Spring paddling

How to prepare for safe paddling adventures on cold water

EARLY-SEASON AN T ICS O N THE WATER

Extra precaution is always necessary when paddling during the spring months.

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PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

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By SPENCER MORRISSEY

t’s never too early to talk about paddling, and it’s never too early to start planning especially when it comes to preparedness.

As with many of you, I hated to put my paddle away for the season and hang the kayak in the garage. But, now it’s on the other end of winter, and it’s time to start thinking about dusting off the carbon fiber, fiberglass, plastic or whatever you are sporting and start planning for some early season antics.

In short, we need to be a bit more conscious of how we pursue this activity in the spring of the year. The waters of the Adirondacks warm up much, much slower than the air leads you to believe.

Think about it. Every day the ice is off the water it’s getting warmer, but that is a very slow process with the constant runoff from the snow-capped peaks.

It’s not like the fall of the year which slowly creeps up on boat retirement, but more of a slow movement in the other direction. However, with the proper head on your shoulders, consciousness of safety and the proper gear, there’s no reason we can’t get a bit of an earlier start on the season.

The most important piece of gear you have is on you at all times: your head.

Think straight, calm and cautiously. Plan ahead with good preparation and you are more than halfway there already.

As a side note before we get started, this is not an end-all to be-all for cold water paddling preparedness, but something to get you started in the right direction. There are a great many books out there on the subject, not to mention the limitless web-based references and chat rooms. If you have never paddled before and feel uncomfortable doing so for the first time, especially in cold water conditions, we encourage you to take a lesson from a local guide service. Many guide services will offer a two- to four-hour introductory course for a very reasonable price. Or take it one step further and go for an American Canoe Association certification.

Paddling the Adirondacks is not only one of the most enjoyable outdoor activities in the Park, but also a wonderful way to get a unique glimpse into the wildlife of the region. Be sure to consider the type of water you will be exploring.

Big lakes that are less sheltered with trees tend to have bigger waves and are much harder to navigate. The wind coming off that cold water is frigid, and with

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Spring paddling Continued from page 4

bigger waves come splashing. This is where a spray skirt with proper cold water gear becomes important.

Rivers have a different current from being swelled and your boat will react differently than it did in the summer. Be cautious of rapids and waterfalls when paddling rivers. In short, have a map and compass and know about the water you will be paddling. Also be cautious of floating debris like logs, trees and even parts of docks that have broken free.

Life Jacket or PFD

The personal flotation device (PFD) or life vest is as important now as it ever was, but even more so when the exposure to cold water can affect our abilities to swim and tread water. A PFD should be worn at all times.

When selecting which one to purchase, make sure it is sized correctly and fitted to your body securely. A type III PFD, certified by the USCG is highly recommended. If you are unclear on a good fit, consult a salesman in a reputable paddle shop before you buy.

Remember function is a much higher quality than sex appeal.

What to wear

Neoprene clothing is a great way to go, or even a full wet or dry suit. Neoprene manages to hold in heat even when wet, and if you’re not allergic to it, has a nice comfortable, snug fit. If you are allergic, lean toward a dry suit or other wet suits without the neoprene material.

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Long Pond Neoprene socks are an amazing purchase you will never regret. Also, in the spring of the year, a nice pair of paddling gloves is essential. I have also found that some sort of jacket for wind protection is a nice piece of outerwear to have along for that wind off the water.

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Other Gear

Here is a list of other gear that’s needed for a safe day on the water, no matter what the season: ¯ Map and compass and/or GPS are abContinued on page 7

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Adirondack wildlife

PHOTO PROVIDED BY LIVESCIENCE.COM

A CLOSER LOOK AT PORCUPINES

Scientific name:

Erethizon dorsatum

Common names:

North American Porcupine, Thorny Pork, Quill Pig

Habitat:

They live in dens usually created in rocks around cliffy areas. Porcupines are often seen in trees, but they do not live there. They spend much of the time resting in trees.

Protection:

PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

This is an unprotected species, and can be hunted during small game season with a hunting license. It is not clear what a hunter would want with a porcupine, but it is known that

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porcupines do have a lot of meat on them and can be used as a survival food due to their high fat content. They cannot see very well and move slow, which makes for easy prey of a starving and lost woodsman.

Food sources:

They love tree bark. In fact they will stay in one area for an extended period of time and completely strip a tree of bark; this of course can be very bad for the tree. They also like to eat log cabins, trail registers and other wood objects they might find along the way. They also like nuts, leaves, grass, tubers and canoe paddles.

ers, or whomever they wish. This is a huge FALSE statement. In order for a person or other animal to be quilled, they have to come into direct contact with one. They do swing their tails at threats, so be careful. In this manner of survival they are quite quick shaking their behind. But wouldn’t hiking be so much more fun if they did?

Old joke:

How do porcupines mate?

Very carefully!

(Bad joke too.)

Other fun facts:

Dogs love to hate porcupines, so be aware that if you are hiking with a dog off leash. If you see trees stripped of bark, or areas of A popular urban legend is that they can small coves in rocks there could be a porcushoot their quills at their predators — or hikpine in the area.

Porcupines have a very strong musky odor that wards off predators and can often be smelled on trees they have debarked. Remind you of anyone?

Porcupines are nearsighted.

Do not hibernate World’s third largest rodent (Aren’t you glad you just have mice in your walls?)

Up to 30,000 quills (trust me, I counted them) Mainly nocturnal which means they eat and wander during the night and sleep during the day, like many Porcupine den college students.

— By Spencer Morrissey

A little extra:

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Spring paddling

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Continued from page 5

Placid water in the spring may look inviting, but don’t be deceived; it’s very cold and dangerous.

Spring 2020

solutely essential for any trip on the water (or on land for that matter). ¯ Dry bags for equipment that you want to protect. Dry storage in many kayaks is not truly 100% dry, but more of a splash guard. While there is a foam bulkhead between the cockpit and storage, this is more of additional floatation. And the water seal you may have gotten from the shop, soon tends to crack from use, weather changes and just everyday banging around. ¯ A skirt is also a great piece of paddling material, and I am not talking about a kilt or dress, but a seal for the cockpit of your kayak. ¯ At least one person in your group should have a paddle float, a throw bag, a bilge pump, a spare paddle and a first-aid kit. ¯ A paddle leash is another piece of gear most don’t think about, but not all paddles float and if they do, you don’t want it to float away. ¯ Food and water are also very important in cold weather to keep up morale, energy and body warmth in check. ¯ A bow light is good to have if you are out after dark, as well as some other type of light source to navigate by. A high lumen headlamp works well.

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A Float Plan

A float plan is essential and should never be left out. This is simply a piece of paper with your plan for the day and your route so that someone can locate you, just in case something happens. You probably leave one for hiking, why not for paddling?

A float plan can even be left in your car, but better off with someone like a family member, or both.

A float plan is not an alternative to safe practices and proper gear.

Also, be sure to keep emergency contacts in that float plan.

Cell Phones

Do not depend on your cell phone as an “emergency out.”

While yes they are great for taking pictures, they are not designed as a flashlight or bow light. It is not the best for navigating either. Think about it: if you use your phone for all of these functions, you are going to kill the battery and then what are you going to use to call if there is a true emergency? Carrying an external charger is not the answer. Keep your phone in a dry bag or pouch and keep it warm to avoid battery loss. Lastly, don’t depend on your phone to have coverage.

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Spring hiking

A NEW AWAKENING Spring hiking in the Adirondacks is not all about mud and blackflies

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By SPENCER MORRISSEY

sn’t it nice to hear the songbirds again? Feel the warm rays of the sun? See grass poking through the holes in the snow? Spring is a time when life comes back to those things that have been sleeping, hikers included.

While yes, many of you might not take the winter season entirely off, others do take this seasonal hiatus.

The black bears start to shake off their cramped muscles and crawl out of their dens, some with cubs, some with just hunger pains.

The dozens of species of spring wildflowers will start pushing their way up through the top soil. Those pesky lady bugs and house flies you thought were dead trapped in your windows are once again everywhere.

The blackflies you love to hate so much are spawning a new generation of soldiers. Then finally, but surely not the last thing, the water that was once still is flowing and seeping in, producing some of the finest mud the world has ever seen.

Knowing all this, there are also a few other things you should keep in mind as the season turns to spring.

Sunscreen

It’s time to break out the sunscreen that you so carefully packed away for winter (even though the sun shines in winter as well). Be sure to check the expiration on your sunscreen because if you are like me, you will have some vintage bottles packed away.

Expired sunscreen does lose its effectiveness as it becomes older. It will still work, and it just may need to be applied more often than a fresh batch.

Conditions can vary drastically during the spring months, with sections of trail like this one entirely under water at times.

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PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Insect repellant

Also known as “bug dope” to some here in the North Country, this is a must for late spring and early summer. But what kind should you buy?

Well, that all depends on how much blood you want to donate to the cause.

Some work better than others and that is not typically because one brand is more effective. A person’s body chemistry works with or against the repellant, kind of like cologne.

Think of bug repellant as stinky cologne. You want it as a repellant

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Spring hiking Continued from page 8

that works with your chemistry to make you smell bad to the native insect population.

Feel free to try household remedies like Skin So Soft or eating a household supply of garlic (this works for some people, but also usually repels any future of having a hiking partner).

There are other types that are all-natural like lemon eucalyptus, which I find works great. Most of the natural types need to be applied more often.

The repellants with deet work great, but should not be used on young children. Deet is a chemical that can irritate a child’s developing skin and eyes. As they get older, you can start to introduce small amounts of deetbased repellant if you wish — your call.

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Mud

Mud is good for you. It helps you get over the fact that you cannot be clean all the time. It soothes minor burns, quiets the itch of stinging nettles and coats pine pitch on your hands so it’s not so sticky.

In all actuality, people pay for mud baths. It makes your skin glow and eventually more supple. I guess, never tried it, but I have to admit my lower leg is quite shiny.

There isn’t much you can do about mud, but it is recommended and requested that you stay off heavily used trails in the High Peaks for a while, and focus on lessused and lower-elevation trails.

You could invest in a pair of gaiters; they work well for mud as well as for snow.

One thing we all ask is that if you are on a muddy trail, go through it. It’s essentially a liquid mud-shake

Spring snow lingers on Rooster Comb in Keene Valley.

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Bu s hw h acko ’s glossar y

Trail booty

PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Bushwhacking

Common terms for those who prefer to venture off the trail

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By SPENCER MORRISSEY

s with all sports there is a lingo of slang terms that come along for the ride when it comes to bushwhacking. When doing your research or just reading people’s trip reports, you might come across a few of these terms and wonder what the heck they are talking about.

It makes sense to start with the word bushwhacking itself. Bushwhacking is the act of hiking through the woods without the aid of a trail or other marked feature.

It requires the use of map and compass and GPS, and a ton of common sense. It is not for the faint of heart and not for many people, even though I recommend everyone try it once with an experienced partner.

The term should not make you think of using a machete while walking through the dense growth of the jungle and cutting your way through the trail. It’s more that you are getting whacked by the bushes, not the other way around. The terrain can be quite open at times, but also very dense, Usually it is somewhere in the middle.

Femur eaters

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Bushwhacking Continued from page 10

Bushwhacko

Here are a few terms to help the uninitiated become familiar with the sport of bushwhacking:

This is a person who loves bushwhacking so much, it seems that none of the above really bothers them.

Chin hobble

Adirondack red algae

This is not so much a term but a descriptor of a very slippery growth on a rock surface, usually found in moist areas and/or steep rocky areas where a slow trickle of water is found.

This is another name for the common witch hopple shrub that grows densely in areas where sunlight penetrates the hardwood forest. It hits you in the chin and hobbles you, and trips you.

Dead fall

Similar to blow down, but these are trees that have fallen from having expired from their time on this earth. Usually in the form of a singular tree or branches

Blow down

These are trees that have fallen from excessive wind. It could be one tree that has been uprooted or a large area.

Femur eater

Beech whip

A beech tree has one of the largest buds in the Adirondacks, and is also very pointed. When not leafed out, they produce this whip that often catches you in the face and usually on the cheek, nose or ear. This seems to typically happen when it’s bitter cold and hurts like the dickens.

Hopefully it doesn’t smack you in the eye, but this is one good reason for eye protection.

Brambles

Blow down

This is a hidden hole in the forest, usually covered by moss and duff. When you step on it, you fall through up to your femur. This can be dangerous, so they should be avoided whenever humanly possible.

Filtered view

This a view that is seen through the trees.

Flocking

This is a common term for raspberry and blackberry bushes that are thorny and entangle you.

This is a term used when several people are attempting to break out a trail or route that is deep, unconsolidated snow. With this, the front person leads for a while then stands aside and moves to the back of the pack. The rotation continues like this until the destination is reached.

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Bushwhacking Continued from page 11

Gem

A spectacular feature that was unexpected or even expected but rarely seen, usually a reference to an open summit, hidden pond or spectacular view.

Handrail

This is a land feature that you can follow to aid you through the woods, like a brook, river, cliff band or herd path.

When you walk through, you step on this void and fall through to the bottom, which can be several feet deep. This can be dangerous, but much more frustrating and tiring than anything.

Squirrely

I guess this might be a common term, but it is one used often in reference to terrain that could be slightly dangerous or hazardous to take as a route.

Herd path

When used while bushwhacking, it is generally referring to a game trail or herd path created by frequent deer use not human impact.

Litter

This is not just human waste, but a reference to leaves and branches that have fallen from a tree and littered the ground.

Path of least resistance

This is the route that makes travel easier and what most bushwhackers look for.

Peek-a-boo view

This is a small view through a tree, also known as a window view.

This is a play on the previous term. It is a feature of the forest, but one that you might grab to help yourself up or down a steep section of terrain. It then pulls free from the ground, hence making it portable. Usually it ends up being a dead tree or snag.

Seam

This is an opening in the trees that makes travel through thicker regions much easier.

Herd path

Seasonal view

This is a view that you can only get during a season where leaves are not on the trees. Once the leaves form, the views disappear.

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Portable handrail

Trail booty

This is when a huge ball of snow gets generated on the branches of a tree, usually a spruce or fir, and then drops on your head as you move through the stand.

These are items found along the trail that may or may not hold value.

However, one needs to remember if it is over 50 years old, it cannot be collected as it is then considered a historical artifact (apparently before that, it is just trash). Of course if you do find some awesome booty, it is hiker etiquette to try your best to get it back to its rightful owner.

Snow bombs

Tree quota

Snow bomb

These are chunks of snow that fall down your back or on your head from branches of trees you are hiking through.

Snow fence

This is a thick band of trees where the branches have piled massive amounts of snow creating a solid fence that you may have to push through.

Spruce trap

This is kind of like a femur eater, but oh so much more intense. It is also a term used heavily by most hikers. This is when snow builds up on the branches of a spruce or fir and leaves a void under the branches.

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This is the maximum number of trees that you can be slapped by, poked by, run into and have to push through, before you become frustrated and start swearing at the sky.

@#$##$%&&@#

Fill in the blank here, your curse word of choice to use along with some of — if not all of — the prior definitions. Of course most swear words can act as nouns, verbs and, of course, interjections. In their modified forms, they can even act as adjectives, so use them wisely, or don’t. Either way they are expected.

I am sure there are more that I am just not thinking of. Can you think of any I might have missed? I’d love to hear them.

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Continued from page 9

that will close back up. The erosion of walking straight through it is much less than when one walks around it, which widens the trail.

Basically, don’t worry about it. It can’t hurt you and it washes off. Heck, if a local eatery won’t turn you away due to a bit of browning, it can’t be all that bad.

All kidding aside, and to reiterate, mud is a big factor during spring hiking, especially mid to late spring. You will see many warnings about staying out of the High Peaks in spring, which is not required but is strongly recommended and requested. Mud and heavy traffic feeds the erosion process, making our trails much less attractive, widened and injured as time goes on. It doesn’t take very many wanderers to create a herd path.

Moving water

Water. Some don’t think about it being an issue unless it’s falling from above (which I guarantee it will in the spring of the year in the Adirondacks). But water on the ground is what I am talking about here, and most importantly in the brooks, streams and rivers that you will want to cross.

Water collects in these runoffs from the peaks high above you, and the farther the water makes it downstream, the bigger the brook or stream becomes. There are many crossings along the trails that are not aided by bridges, log stringers or stepping stones; some of these could essentially be under water as well.

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Rushing water is very powerful, and fording a moving body of water might not be avoidable (or recommended). In cases like this, you may need to turn around and wait for drier weather. Case in point: Indian Pass Brook en route to Street and Nye mountains. This brook can become uncrossable for an extended pe-

Temperatures are often misunderstood in the spring. Many times I have seen hikers unprepared up high because it’s so warm down low. riod of time, leaving these two peaks for another day.

Even smaller brooks that you could once jump over can be a battle to cross. Care and common sense should rule at all crossings.

[See related article in this issue on water crossings for more details.]

Spring temperatures

Temperatures are often misunderstood in the spring. Many times I have seen hikers un-

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Spring hiking

prepared up high because it’s so warm down low. While it’s bare ground and 60 degrees at the trailhead, there can be 3 feet of snow and 35 degrees with a wind chill below freezing at 4,000 feet. It’s not that uncommon.

This is where those hiking shorts and sneakers that have been calling your name for six months might not be the best idea. So what do you do? Plan for what could be, ask a local information center for details and check trail conditions on local forums (ADK or the NYSDEC).

Snow is the toughest obstacle to tackle in early- and mid-spring. While none may exist at the trailhead, you might need to carry snowshoes for higher elevations.

Snow at higher elevations

Snow in spring is tough to estimate, and even harder to battle. Snow in the High Peaks lingers around for much longer than it does at the trailhead. Three feet on “rotten” snow is hard work to trudge through. Heck, 12 inches is even tough.

While the trail was once stomped hard from all the traffic, the hard spine in the center of the trail that is left is getting smaller and smaller, narrower and narrower, and much harder to stay on. Fighting snow like this for long periods of time is exhausting and unsafe.

Carry the extra weight of the snowshoes and increase your odds of a successful and safe hike.

All in all, have a great spring hiking season.

I could probably go on and on, but for now I’ll just wish everyone happy and safe hiking.

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By SPENCER MORRISSEY

fter nearly a half-dozen cancellations and a lastminute change, I finally made it to the four-pack of mountains near Sheep Meadow. Of course I wouldn’t be alone on this adventure either.

It always seemed as though something would come up when plans were set to hike Cherry Hill, Star Mountain, Square Mountain and Little Cherry Hill, but finally the day came where nothing changed in the unpredictable Adirondack spring forecast. It was game on.

It was unclear at this time what type of visual stimulation we would have for the day — if any. However, if not much else, the hike back to Sheep Meadow would still be a pleasant one.

We had heard some rumors about Star Mountain being a nice spot for views, but you know the authenticity of what you find online can be like. It’s probably not all that different from online dating, not that I would know what that’s like.

We started from Mountain Pond Road en route to Sheep Meadow, and we did so on a damp spring morning whose ambient temperature did not reflect the chill we had to our bones. The sun was promised to us in some fashion throughout the day, but would its rays be enough to warm our vitamin D-deficient souls?

While no snow was on the ground at the trailhead, we suspected that would not be the case as we approached the taller summits of Star Mountain and Square Mountain. Whatever we found would surely not warrant snowshoes. Traction was a maybe.

We moved along the trail in a motion much slower than usual, as I think we had trouble walking and talking at the same time. But nonetheless, we were at the intersection for Grass Pond relatively fast, and on the foot trail to Sheep Meadow.

This mile-and-a-half section is a picturesque area even under the dim light and low color palette of mid-spring. The rolling hills on this segment kind of made me wish for snow, so we could ski one more time.

Soon we were back on the forest road and crossing the scenic Hays Brook bridge. A small, more moderate climb along the road brought us to a high plateau where elevation change was nearly non-existent but still faintly noticeable.

As we neared the lean-tos, we came across a path into Sheep Meadow that looked way too good to pass up. So we didn’t.

The meadow was a remarkable place where the trees thinned out and unlocked a really interesting backcountry destination. We wandered as if lost through the open fields, but eventually realized we needed to get back to the trail to access our first peak of the day: Cherry Hill.

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D ebar For est fo u r- pa ck Sheep Meadow Trail

PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

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Trip report

Horse barn at Sheep Meadow After our wanderings, we made it back to the trail and continued deeper into the Wild Forest. Just prior to reaching the lean-tos, Corenne noticed another trail leading off to the west, and it just so happened to be going in the right direction. According to the USGS map, this was an old, abandoned trail.

Now on this course, we made the base of Cherry Hill in prime time, which was now only 0.4-miles away.

This area of Adirondack jungle was open and made for an easy walk through the maples and beeches. The grade was gentle, one that made us feel like we were putting forth no effort at all with our ascent.

We stood upon the summit much quicker than we had anticipated, putting us ahead of EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out

schedule. The top was an open wooded forest with not one cherry tree to welcome us. Maybe the black cherry trees had been harvested since the mountain’s naming.

From Cherry Hill, we could see Star Mountain right in front of us, making for an easy navigational effort ahead. Star Mountain stood a few hundred feet higher than us, and still no sign of snow. The descent was an easy one, but the climb up Star was sure to be a bit more challenging.

The shallow col came quick and the climb was not that difficult, even with a small rock cliff here and there. The closer we got to the summit, the more promise it had for a view.

Continued on page 15 Spring 2020

Trip report

Debar and Black mountains are seen from Star Mountain.

Continued from page 14

There was even a bit of snow under us.

We first came to an interesting rock outcropping with decent views.

Not stellar, but worthy of a few snapshots. We thought that might be it for the views until we continued the remaining few hundred feet to the summit, which opened up with amazing views atop a steep rock slab.

From this vantage point we could see Debar Mountain, Black Peak, the Sable Mountains, the fire tower on Loon Lake Mountain, Whiteface, Esther and a large portion of the Great Range. What an amazing seat to have!

Star Mountain has two summits, and as we stood atop the highest one, we made plans to traverse over the other to reach Square Mountain. The descent was once again easy through an open forest, and the climb followed suit. While no outlooks were had from the top, the descent would prove otherwise.

We happened upon a steep cliff area where views of Square Mountain were before us, but the issue was getting off the rocky band. We worked our way down over lip and shelf, sliding on our butts at times, and other times making leaps of faith. We soon got cut off and needed to find other means for a safe descent.

With careful navigation along the steep ledges, we made our way into the deep saddle with Square Mountain. Soon we crossed a flagged trail, and then in the middle of what seemed to be nowhere, Corenne spotted an old horse trail marker that was half engulfed by the tree it was nailed to. The only thing we figured was that maybe there was an old trail to Star Mountain Pond, but other than the marker we couldn’t see hide nor hair of it.

Motoring on after a bit of hot chocolate and peppermint schnapps, we started the steepest climb of the day on the slopes of Square Mountain.

Spring 2020

Even with the forest remaining open, the leaves made for poor and slippery footing. It was unfortunate that Square was a wooded summit because its potential was quite good and in a prime location for outstanding mountain vistas.

We chalked it up as another successful peak as we headed toward the final destination of the day along the flat ridge of Little Cherry Hill. Sitting at 1,830 feet in elevation, we figured the descent would heavily outweigh any gain we needed to overcome. We couldn’t even make out the flat summit until we were practically right under it.

In the col, we happened across the trail we were on earlier: the unmaintained Hays Brook Trail. The walk up the slopes was nothing more than that: a walk. To the best of our abilities we found the highest point, which resided on top of a boulder in a forest of non-cherry trees.

The descent proved to be a bit more interesting. While the terrain was easy and mellow, it was almost too mellow. It was hard to keep a straight bearing to where we wanted to go, and passing through the tall stand of white pines we found ourselves in moose country and approaching a moist, dense wetland.

If it wasn’t speckled alder we were pushing through, it was soggy moss and deep pools of brisk waters that we tried to avoid. Then we stood at Dan’s backdoor and walked his plank, which was an incomplete, narrow partially frozen dam that would once again get us to dry land. It didn’t take long, and once we successfully did that, we were again on that forgotten trail to Hays Brook.

On our way out, we decided to visit the lean-tos and the horse stables at Sheep Meadow, just to get a good picture of them in the fading light.

Our retreat back to the trailhead from here was one of haste and deep conversation of where we would explore next and what possibly unhealthy meal we would partake in once we got out.

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Spring safety

W ad i ng t hr o u gh sp r in g’ s r u n of f

The Sacandaga and the Middle Branch of the Moose River (opposite page) tend to swell during the spring, making for challenging crossings.

To Ford: is to cross water by wading Safe water crossings are vital to an enjoyable day in the woods. In fact, if you can do it safely, it can open up a new world of exploring.

Here are some dos and don’ts to floss your brain with.

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PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

S

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

pring runoff and snowmelt make for some sloppy trails, but don’t forget the adverse effect it has on streams and seasonal drainages. Dry creek beds become streams, streams become rivers and rivers become impassable, and it doesn’t take much for that to happen.

Sure, the spring is when most hikers associate dangerous and swelled water crossings, but it can also happen in the blink of an eye when a storm cell comes through and dumps large amounts of rain in a short period of time.

These are often called flash floods, and they can happen here in the Adirondacks too.

Flash floods happen when in the morning you cross a creek and then you come back later in the day to find it swollen and impassable. A prime example is Indian Pass Brook on the way to Street and Nye mountains.

Moving water is very powerful, so the deeper you wade the more surface area the water has to push on. Always shoot for shallower crossings,even if it is moving a bit fast — less surface area is key.

Do this:

¯ If you need to ford a crossing, do it in as shallow and calm an area as you can find.

Look up and downstream for the best location. ¯ Unstrap your backpack, so if you do fall in you can get it off quickly. ¯ Use trekking poles or a couple tree limbs for balance. ¯ It’s always best to find rocks to hop. ¯ Use logs if available, safe and well-anEMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out

chored to the shore or other feature. ¯ Use a beaver dam if one is available. ¯ If you know fording is the only option, bring a pair of water shoes to protect your feet ¯ Watch for floating debris. ¯ Use rope between people for a safety harness to shore. ¯ Leave a planned itinerary with someone at home.

Continued on page 17 Spring 2020

Continued from page 16

¯ Watch local weather forecasts. ¯ Wade into a wet crossing or ford, do not jump in or step in from a rock. ¯ Face upstream, you are steadier that way, and shuffle to the side with small steps and leave your feet only as much as it takes to move them. ¯ Know and learn the waters; don’t cross the creek or river to just find yourself at another crossing at an oxbow of the same. Walking downstream or upstream to avoid a crossing is always better. Know the route to avoid several crossings of the same river or creek. ¯ Cross at a slight angle downstream, leaning only slightly forward. ¯ Check water speed by tossing a stick out into the current. ¯ Roll up your pant legs or take off your pants. Less drag on the water means less area to grab and pull you off balance

Don’t do this:

¯ Do not cross directly above or below rapids or rocky areas, the current is usually much stronger here. ¯ Do not cross alone. ¯ Do not go fast. Take your time and place your steps with precision. ¯ Do not try to save any gear dropped, it’s not worth taking a chance. Locate it later down stream. ¯ Do not try to hold your pack over your head, this can throw off your balance. ¯ Do not cross near a choke point or narrowing of a river; the current is faster here. Look for the widest part. ¯ Do not look down or into the current for too long; this can be dizzying and disorienting. Look at the location you want to go and use. Feel with your feet to find the best step and keep focus.

If you do fall in, get that pack off if it hinders you from getting up.

If it’s too rapid get on your back, feet downstream and try to get to shore ASAP.

Spring 2020

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17

Gear care

PROLONG THE LIFE OF YOUR WINTER GEAR

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By SPENCER MORRISSEY

Skis

As for your skis, remove any light surface rust on the metal edges by using a piece of steel wool. If you want your skis tuned for the next season, I recommend bringing them to a reputable place to get them serviced, either before you put them away or next fall.

Store in a dry location. A ski bag works well to protect them from getting banged up, but some don’t breathe all that well and surface rust can build up on metal-edged skis. Put a coating of wax on the metal edges to keep them from rusting up. The wax will wear off during the first use of the next season.

ith the passing of another long winter season, it’s time to start thinking about how to make your winter gear stay in the condition you desire while being stored in the off-season.

No one can argue that good gear is expensive — especially winter gear — so why not take care of it and make it last for years to come?

Throughout the winter season your gear gets wet then dry, wet then dry, over and over again throughout the season. The more active your season, the more this happens and the more important it is to take care of the gear that takes care of you. While I don’t have all the answers, and my wife would vouch for that, I think I can help you extend the life of your gear and get you started in the habit of proper maintenance.

Poles

There is a simple process for maintenance of poles. If you have a one-piece pole, there really is no maintenance, just check for damage and replace as needed. If you have a twoor three-section pole, simply take them apart to dry and remove dirt between the sections.

Store in a dry area whenever possible, but most poles should not rust over the summer.

Snowshoes

Look for any possible damage from the previous season and mark those with a small piece of colorful electrical tape to easily find later or fix them right away. The off-season is the perfect time to send them out for repairs or take on the task yourself.

The crampons can be sharpened using a flat file. But do not sharpen to a point, they just need to be sharp enough to do the job. Use a medium coarseness steel wool to dust off any surface rust and put a very light coating of oil on them using a rag. Hang in a dry place, not in a storage bag, even if they came with one.

Crampons

The same as with snowshoes, use steel wool to clean off any surface rust that shows up and put a very light coating of oil on them using a rag. Crampons can be sharpened using a flat file. Again do not sharpen to a point, just sharpen enough to do the job you need them to do. Over-filing can break down the hardening of the metals and make them more prone to breaking. Store in a dry place, do not place in a bag that does not breathe.

Tent

Boot stack dryer Microspikes

Treat these the same as your snowshoes and crampons. Microspikes don’t tend to need sharpening, but they can be if you feel they’ve been rounded by Adirondack rock. Microspikes are stainless steel so they should not rust, but it is important to keep them clean. Salt from roadsides and trailheads can break down metals and rubber.

When you come back from winter camping, your tent will be wet, and in many cases, still frozen in areas.

You should set the tent up inside to let it dry, if you have the space. If space is at a premium you should at least hang it up. Use the curtain bar in your shower and flip it around to be sure it all gets dry.

Store the tent in its stuff sack, but do not roll the tent. Tents have memory; if it gets rolled the same way too much it can create a crease and then a weak point for water the next season.

Always, stuff your tent in no particular manner. Doing this makes it tough to get the entire tent in the stuff sack, but with a bit of practice it can be done. In a couple of cases, especially with winter tents, I have had to purchase a larger stuff sack, and almost always have to leave the poles out. Be sure to check the tent for any holes or tears and the poles for cracks or other damage (before and after each use).

Sleeping bags

PHOTOS BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Down sleeping bags are the same as down outerwear and should be treated with care.

Down should only be washed with a down wash which is free of heavy perfumes or harsh chemicals. Down should also only be washed in a front-load washing machine to avoid water loading and abrupt movements.

It’s recommended to place down items in a dryer. Hanging wet down will make the down become bunched up and that is bad. Dry on a low setting and place a couple tennis balls in with the piece. The tennis balls will work the down around while drying and helping it spread back out. You could use a shoe, but if you do be sure it is a non-marking shoe to avoid black marks in your dryer or on your gear.

Synthetic sleeping bags are much easier to Continued on page 19 18

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Spring 2020

Continued from page 18

clean. They should also be put in a front-load washer only. Synthetic fillers can also bunch up when washed and should be dried in the same manner as a down sleeping bag.

Storage of all sleeping bags is important and should not be overlooked. All bags should be hung if you have the room, or stored flat, which I realize is not an option for many people. You can also store your bags in a large storage sack or laundry bag. The important thing is to not store them compressed for a long period of time. Extended periods of compression can mat the fillers and over time lose some of the loft and warmth ratings.

Also, rodents love sleeping bags, so keep them in a bin if you can — especially if you are storing them in a basement or an outbuilding.

Backpack

If you are storing one over the summer and breaking out that summer pack, just wipe it clean of heavy dirt and particles and call it good.

Dirt adds character to a pack and almost tells a story.

They can be washed if you so desire, I do when it gets all skunky.

Just use tech wash or gentle soap and wash in warm water with like materials.

Boots

Typically with boots, you don’t have to do anything for storage, just keep in a place where mice and other rodents don’t make a home. But if you wish to wash them, start by brushing off excess dirt as needed, and then hand wash.

To dry your boots you need to be a bit more careful. Excessive heat is bad for glued seams and leather such as placing them on or near a heater will dry out the glues which can cause a shoe to break down much quicker. High heat also dries out leather which also causes sewed seams to break down and the body to crack.

It is best to remove the foot bed before you start to dry them to allow for adequate air flow. Then you have the option to leave them alone in a dry, warm environment (if you are not in a hurry). If you are in a rush, you can stuff them with newspaper to soak up the excess moisture. You can also purchase boot stacks that simply move warm, dry air into and around the inside of the boots.

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19

Campfire safety

FIRE SAFETY IN THE BACKCOUNTRY T

By SPENCER MORRISSEY

he high level of fire danger is often overlooked during the spring. People assume because there is so much water around — in the rivers, streams and lakes — that the risk level must be low.

In fact, spring can be one of the most dangerous times of year. There are a large amount of dead leaves and other combustible materials lying on the ground, with no green leaves on the trees or grass on the ground to stand in the way of an out-of-control fire.

With spring and summer camping coming soon, I am sure you are excited about a relaxing campfire outdoors. Always follow Leave No Trace ethics when building and leaving an area you had or want to have a fire.

¯ Be sure to know the campfire regulations for the area you are going. Some areas do not allow them. ¯ Use a fire ring or stone structure if one is available. ¯ When done make it as though you were not there, especially in back-county wilderness camping. ¯ Campfires are allowed during the New York State burn ban, but use common sense, if its dry maybe avoid them. ¯ Look at your surroundings for a safe area to have one. Look at overhead ladder fuels like dead branches that can catch from a floating spark. ¯ Is nearby water available for easy and quick extinguishing? ¯ Do not cut down live trees or dead snags, use only dead and downed timber. ¯ DO NOT burn trash or food waste. ¯ DO NOT use fuel from your stove to start the fire, this is very hazardous and may cause a quick spread to an otherwise gentle fire. ¯ Keep the fire size manageable. ¯ If not in a designated fire pit, be sure the fire is 100% dead before going to bed. ¯ Don’t place clothing or your tent too close to the fire. They can catch easily and place you in a bad situation. A melted shoe is tough to walk in and a tent in flames is very bad and can quickly become out of control. ¯ If using rocks to make a fire ring, dismantle the ring as though it never happened. ¯ Know your weather patterns and forecasts, and be aware of high winds. ¯ NEVER leave unattended.

Death by drowning

1. Fill a bucket, water bottle, cup, dry bag or whatever you have with water and pour it on top of the campfire and continue doing so until all the hissing from the hot embers stops.

2. Mix up the ashes and embers by using a stick or shovel. As you stir you may uncover more red embers or burning wood which must be extinguished before you leave.

3. Scrape off the burnt parts on the sticks and logs. Use your stick or shovel to scrape 20

Campfires should always be kept at a manageable level to reduce risk of it spreading.

off any partially burnt sticks or logs to ensure that they are fully extinguished. This may reveal more burning embers inside the wood.

4. Repeat these three steps until it is cold to the touch: Put your palms up next to logs and coals. If you don’t feel any heat radiating off of them, you can touch them with your hands.

5. If you still feel warmth your fire must be doused down with more water.

6. As a side note the rocks surrounding the fire should be cool to the touch when the fire is fully extinguished

Death by suffocation

1. If you need to extinguish the fire quickly, this is not an ideal method. Instead, use water to put out your fire. But if there is no immediate water source you may have no choice.

2. Wait until the fire dies down late in the evening or first thing in the morning before EMBARK ~ Get Up, Get Out

PHOTO BY SPENCER MORRISSEY

Here are safety tips to keep in mind:

you set out.

3. Mix the ashes together with a stick or a shovel. Use a shovel or a long stick to poke the embers left over in the fire. Uncover large unburned logs or sticks to make sure that there are no embers remaining under the ashes.

4. Stir dirt or sand into the embers, the moister the dirt the better. You just want enough dirt or sand to smother the embers and to extinguish the fire fully. Do not cover or bury the fire, as this could create a fire under the surface of the dirt that could reignite later as a ground fire that reaches deep into the root system of nearby vegetation.

5. Touch the fire to make sure the fire has been put out. Put your hand a couple of inches away from the coals in the fire to make sure that it’s cooled off. If it still feels warm, repeat the steps until the ashes are completely cooled.

Spring 2020