VT
FREE! SUMMER 2018
SKI + RIDE
Vermont’s Mountain Sports and Life
The Best of
Summer in Vermont THE LOCALS’ GUIDE TO: FABULOUS FARM DINNERS
EPIC CLIMBING ROUTES
COOL NEW STUNNING MOUNTAIN BIKE SKI HOME TRAILS MAKEOVERS www.vtskiandride.com
90 AWESOME EVENTS
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CONTENTS / 03.04
FEATURES RE-FRESH p. 24
How can you update a 1980s-era ski house? These two families did stunning renovations of their Okemo homes. By Lisa Lynn
ROCK & ROLL, p. 30
Can gravity-fed mountain biking become as big as downhill skiing? Killington and other Vermont ski resorts are banking on it. By Kelly Ault
A TABLE AT THE FARM, p. 38
Each summer a few farms invite guests in and serve some of the freshest, most interesting meals in idyllic settings. By Abagael Giles
BACKCOUNTRY BROOKS, p. 46
Yes, there are plenty of stocked trophy fish in Vermont’s rivers. But if you want to catch native wild trout, head for the hills. By Kirk Kardashian. A quiet day on the Waterbury Reservoir, just south of Stowe.
FIRST TRACKS FIRST TRACKS | RUNNING HIGH,
p. 4
New mountain runs are exploding around Vermont. Photo by Nathanael Asaro
RESORT NEWS | WHAT’S NEW,
p. 9
New music fests, trails, a pro tennis tournament and more. Here’s what’s happening around Vermont this summer.
ADVENTURES| CLIMBING GROWS UP,
p. 19
Whether you want to find a gym where you can climb an indoor wall or find new cliffs or boulders, the Green Mountains have you covered..
COLUMNS EDITOR’S LETTER | 365 DAYS OF PLAY, GEAR | TRAIL TO TAP ROOM,
p. 3
p. 50
RETRO VT | TIME TRAVEL, p. 53
Step back into another era when you visit these four grand estates.
THE GREEN MOUNTAIN CALENDAR | CHAIRLIFT Q/A | DR. DANGER,
p. 56
p. 64
He’s been a chief medical correspondent for NBC and best-selling author of health books. Now, here’s what Stowe’s Dr. Bob Arnot does for fun.
ON THE COVER: Hiking the spine of the Green Mountains’ off Mt. Mansfield. Photo by Nathanael Asaro
vtskiandride.com Summer 2018 1
PLAYGROUND Three high speed lifts to get you to the top. 29 trails for sending it back down, including ďŹ ve Gravity Logic designed trails to help you graduate from the Skills Garden to the Black Magic Jump Line in record time. Our playground has MORE.
Home of the Fox US Open of Mountain Biking. August 1-5, 2018. killington.com
#beast365
365 DAYS OF PLAY
CONTRIBUTORS
On May 5, Sugarbush had more to celebrate than just Cinqo de Mayo. After 162 days, the lifts there were still turning, making for one of the longest ski seasons in the Northeast. And with ample sun and warm temperatures, the golf course was already in play with “tee and ski” tickets for just $50 that weekend. Sugarbush was not alone in making a seamless transition from winter to summer. Jay Peak closed on May 6, too. And around the state, skiers and riders hiked and skinned to savor the last of an epic snowpack. At Killington, the lifts were still turning as we went to press in late May and the mountain biking was revving up. Mount Snow was prepping to host its annual Peace Pipe bash over Memorial Day — a last chance to ride the rails and other features at Carinthia Park before the last snow melted. Vermont’s ski resorts are now fully dedicated to the new “second” season: summer. Killington has become so confidant in its ability to offer fun year-round that it rolled out the first 365-day pass: good for skiing, mountain biking, gondola rides and everything the Beast’s growing Adventure Center offers. Even smaller resorts like Magic Mountain, which has seen a huge revival in the last two years, are staying open all year and expanding disc golf courses, treetops ropes courses and adding running races and other events. This summer brings back the usual concerts and festivals, ranging from Stratton’s yoga blowout, Wanderlust, to Sugarbush’s Woodstock-like Frendly Festival to Jay Peak’s Garden of Eden/ Strangefolk Festival. But there are also a number of new, world-class sporting events. Why fight the lines and high-priced tickets to attend pro tennis’s U.S. Open in NewYork when you can watch many of the same players compete at the second annual Stowe Tennis Classic the week before? Want to catch the country’s best mountain bike racers in action? Head to Killington for the Fox U.S. Open or Burke for the Enduro Nationals. Did you know that there’s a $100,000-plus prize purse up for grabs at the PDGA Disc Golf World Championships? On Sept. 13-17 you can see who’s up for that as the world’s top disc golfers head to Smuggler’s Notch for the event. In short, if the ski season lasts 162 days (or more), there are enough things to do the other 203 days of the year in the Green Mountains to keep you playing outside pretty much every day—and night. In the evening hours, there are farm dinners to take in (see “A Table at the Farm,” p. 38), brook trout to chase in mountain streams, golf courses to tackle and brewfests to attend. It’s no wonder that more and more skiers like Kerry Berchem and her family are thinking about making their winter homes (see our story on her stunning ski house makeover, p. 24), their year-round residences. Why ever leave these mountains?—Lisa Lynn, Editor
Kelly Ault is one of the top masters enduro mountain bike racers in the nation. She and her husband and twin sons travel the country competing but loves to ride the local Vermont trails, as she writes in “Rock & Roll,” p. 30. They live in Middlesex. Our new assistant editor, Abagael Giles, just moved back to Vermont from Mammoth Lakes, Calif. where she worked for The Sheet. A freeheelin’, rockclimbing former hut caretaker, she shares her passion for Vemont’s local fare in “A Table at
Kirk Kardashian, who wrote “Backcountry Brooks,” writes about outdoor sports, business, and the intersection of the two for publications such as The New Yorker. The author of Milk Money, he lives in Woodstock with his wife, three children, and a chocolate lab named
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FIRSTTRACKS RUNNING HIGH Move over adventure races and marathons, the latest trend in extreme fitness is mountain running. With a surge in new races, these Vermont ski resorts have you covered.
C
ody Reed, 25, a winner of the 100-kilometer Ultra Race of Champions in 2016, is not someone you’d ever want to challenge to race up a mountain. Reed had already won the first event in the Under Armour Mountain Running Series when he set off to run the 50 kilometers of trails on the ridgeline between Killington and Pico in August, 2017. It was the first time the three-race national series had come to Killington, bringing Reed and other top runners to the Green Mountains. Not far behind was Saxtons River local Josh Ferenc. On the rest of the course, hundreds of other competitors were running through alpine forests and along ridgelines with 100-mile views, racing distances that ranged from a 5K to a vertical mile, to the 50K. Running up mountains: It’s what local skiers and riders have always done to stay in shape after the lifts closed. But in recent years, the number of mountain races at ski areas has exploded. This summer, no fewer than three mountain races take place on the weekend of August 25-26, alone. The 11th running of the Northeast Delta Dental Race to the Top of Vermont in Stowe, challenges runners and cyclists to see who can get up the 4.3-mile, 2,654-foot vertical gain route up the Toll Road the fastest. The Under Armour Mountain Running Series brings back some of the best mountain runners in the country to Killington. And the Sky Run sends the vertically adept up the trails of Mad River Glen to the summit in either a 5K or a 10K, which has 3,700 vertical feet of climbing. “It seems like more and more people are looking for different types of running challenges and running up a mountain feels like an extreme endeavor, but it’s attainable,” says Greg Maino, who runs the Vermont Running Company and serves as the communication director for the Catamount Trail Organization, the host of Stowe’s Race to the Top. “Each year, we’re seeing more and more trail races like that.” The season kicks off with the Catamount Ultra, June 23, which lets runners take a 25- or a 50-kilometer route around the trails of the Trapp Family Lodge (ending with a von Trapp beer, of course). Bolton Valley Resort hosts its first 6-hour or 12-hour relay challenge to see who can run the most laps to the summit in Enough is Enough, to benefit addiction recovery. Magic Mountain is hosting its first Red Line Scramble — a grueling run up the trail below the Red Chair. “We’ve been hosting skimo races all year, so why not run up this route,” asks Magic’s race organizer Michael Christopher Owens. New to Vermont too is Ragnar, a New England-wide running camp/festival and ultra trail relay races, which comes to Ascutney. Smuggler’s Notch challenges serious runners to a 25K or a vertical 1K up Madonna mountain on Aug. 11. Jay Peak hosts its 7th Annual Trail Festival over Labor Day with three different 5Ks (green circle to black diamond) all the way up to a 53.1K (yes, they made the 50K harder this year.) Then there are the historically brutal Mansfield Double Up (an 11-mile mountaineering race that involves trails so steep they have ladders) and Circumburke (a 26.2mile run or a 27-mile ride on trails and singletrack around Burke Mountain). And the season ends at Stratton, with the
4 Summer 2018 vtskiandride.com
credit
As many as 800 race up Mt. Mansfield’s Toll Road e ach year (on foot or by bike) .
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MOUNTAIN RUNS
First Tracks
July 7: Enough is Enough Recovery Run, Bolton Valley Resort: 3-, 6- and 12-hour challenges to run laps to the summit. July 27: Red Line Scramble, Magic Mountain: A one-mile uphill race with 1,500 vertical feet. Erin McGill at the 2017 Youth SkyRunning World Championships in Andorra. The Under Armour 50K course, below right.
July 29: Mansfield Double Up, Stowe: 11-mile endurance run that climbs 5,500 feet. Aug. 10-11: Mountain Race & Vertical Challenge, Smuggler’s Notch: a 25K and a vertical 1K. Aug. 25-26: Under Armour Mountain Running Series, Killington, 5K to 50K. Aug. 26: Sky Race, Mad River Glen: A 5K or 10K run to the summit. Aug. 26: Race to the Top of Vermont, Stowe: A run or a bike up the 4.3-mile Toll Road to the top of Mt. Mansfield’s ridgeline. Sept. 1-2: Jay Peak Trail Festival, Jay Peak: 5K runs up to a 53.1 K with three 11-mile loops. Oct. 13: Circumburke, Burke: A trail or bike marathon around Burke Mountain . Oct. 7; North Face Race to the Top, Stratton: Run 2.1 miles up Stratton Mountain. Oct. 11-14; 29029, Stratton: Run 17 laps up Stratton, to reach the height of Mt. Everest. Oct. 13: Trapp Mountain Marathon, Stowe a marathon or half marathon.
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North Face Race to the Summit (with $2000 in prize money) on Oct. 7, followed by the second running of the most grueling event of all: 29029, a challenge to run up Stratton Mountain 17 times, gaining the altitude of Mt. Everest, 29,029 feet. (You take the gondola down). Out of breath just thinking about this? It’s no wonder that Vermont turns out some of the top mountain runners in the nation, including world-class mountain runners Aliza LaPierre and Kasie Enman. To get a sense of how stiff the competition can be, at “fun” events like the race to the top, Montpelier’s Liz Stephen, the three-time member of the U.S. Olympic cross country ski team holds the women’s record for running the 4.3-mile course in 37 minutes 22 seconds. And Olympic mountain biking silver medalist Lea Davison, of Jericho, holds the record for riding it in 37:18. Now, there’s a new crop of young runners. Last year John Kerrigan, a cross-country coach for more than 30 years at Waterbury’s Harwood Union High School, put together the first U.S. team to head to the Youth Sky Running World Championships. The event, held in Andorra, featured a vertical kilometer race (a 3.5K race with an elevation gain of 1,020 meters) and 15K races. Erin McGill, of Moretown, a competitor on the Ski The East freeride tour, finished second in the vertical K and third in the 15K. This year, McGill and her brother Brendan as well as Waitsfield’s John Henry Bardes and East Burke’s Naia Tower-Pierce will be on the team and compete in Italy, Aug. 1. “One of the biggest assets Vermont has is our terrain,” says running coach Ryan Kerrigan (John Kerrigan’s son) of Ripton. “There are not too many places where you get to run up and down as much as Vermont. Running flats might build up your foot speed but running hills builds strength.” For actor Rusty DeWees, running mountains in Stowe did more than that: it got him back on skis this year for the first time in 17 years. “My back was shot, I had degenerative discs and I could barely walk in 2004,” DeWees recalls. “The mountain saved me. I started walking up Mt. Mansfield, then running and now I’m in better shape than ever,” the 57-year-old says. As Ryan Kerrigan says, running mountains has another benefit. “Running on steep, hilly terrain through forests and over mountain tops, on and off trail is our heritage,” he says. “We don’t need to hunt for food anymore but we’re always hunting something; one way or another a run in the woods helps us find whatever we’re looking for.” n
June 23: Catamount Ultra, Trapp Family Lodge, Stowe: 25K and 50K race on trails.
6 Summer 2018 vtskiandride.com
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Resort News ASCUTNEY OPENS OUTDOOR CENTER After years of hard work, the 3,000-square-foot Ascutney Outdoors Center will open this summer, just in time to host the Vermont Mountain Bike Festival, July 2729.The center will serve as a base for the mountain’s yearround mountain biking, hiking and skiing trails. Paradise Sports of Windsor will operate out of the bottom floor, renting out bikes, skis and other equipment. The upstairs will feature a large, open room with a small kitchen, restrooms, large windows with a view of the mountain and an outdoor deck perfect for an après beer. “It will serve as a gateway for all of Ascutney Outdoors’ activities,” says board member Glenn Seward. It will also host regular open mic nights, film series, naturalist talks and more. The space will be available to rent for gatherings like birthdays and reunions.
WHAT’S UP THIS SUMMER? With new lift-served mountain biking, festivals, mountain runs and more, here’s your guide to what’s happening atVermont’s ski resorts this summer. By Emma Cotton
Courtesy photo
Bromley is home to one of the longest alpine slides in the world.
S
ummer in the Green Mountains is the time of mountain biking, disc golf and ridge runs— topped off with the ever-growing list of awardwinning local microbreweries, mountain festivals and outdoor concerts to keep the good times
rolling. Increasingly, ski resorts around the state are making wholehearted leaps to provide adventure 365 days of the year. Killington set the standard last March when it launched the East’s first 365-day, all-inclusive, year-round pass, good for early-rate purchase through June 14. If you have any doubt that there’s something going on nearly every day of the summer here, read on to see what’s new at resorts this summer and check our Green Mountain Calendar on page 56 for more events.
DISC GOLF AT BOLTON VALLEY Many resorts are expanding their disc golf terrain this summer, and Bolton Valley is one of them. Last year, the mountain installed the nine-hole Vista Beast course, and this year, they’re expanding to 18 holes. The course will see plenty of action with two regular tournament series on Thursday and Sunday nights, starting July 4, and the Vista Beast Disc Golf Challenge on Sept. 1. On Thursdays, The Village Cafe will pair local brews and food from local farms, to the sound of live tunes from local bands. And Far Side Pizza will be open on weekends. On June 24, head to Bolton for the VTRocks Music Festival & BBQ.The lineup of eight bands includes Cookie’s Hot Club, Mountain Weekend and The Mallet Brothers Band. And on July 7 Bolton Valley hosts a new event, the Enough is Enough Recovery Run—a 3-hour, 6-hour or 12-hour challenge to run up from the base to the summit to support addiction recovery services. FLY ACROSS BROMLEY If you’re looking for adventure, Bromley’s got options including a Mountain Adventure Park, an Aerial Adventure Park and the Sun Mountain Flyer (a chair on a zipline). Head to the Park and challenge two friends to a race on the triple-track alpine slide–one of the longest in the world. The Aerial Park features a zip line, a canopy tour and challenge course with 65 unique elements. HIT THE TRAILS AT BURKE Just a mile east of Kingdom Trails, one of the state’s best mountain biking trail systems, Burke Mountain Resort has its own network of lift-served bike trails. That’s what makes Burke the perfect spot for the New England Moun-
vtskiandride.com Summer 2018 9
u D E E R F I E LD VA L L E Y
Local Realtors. Local Pride.
tain Bike Association annual festival, NEMBAfest. Held June 22-24, it’s a mountain biking celebration that includes demos, a stunt show, clinics, games, live music, group rides, food, drink and complimentary camping. This Sept. 15-16, Burke also hosts some of the country’s top mountain bikers at the North American finals for the Enduro World Championships. Then, on July 14, Vermont’s Toughest Tri is an Ironman distance: swim 2.4 miles in the glacially-carved Lake Willoughby, bike 112 miles (with 8,000 feet of elevation gain) and run a marathon with 5,000 more feet of climbing before landing back at Burke. Top it off on Aug. 11 with the 10th Annual Bike ’N Brew with music, riding and sampling of local craft brews. And if you are ready for a real challenge, Circumburke (a marathon run or bike ride around Burke Mountain) takes place on Oct. 13.
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JAM AT JAY Jay has several big-name bands coming to the Stateside Amphitheater. Four consecutive weeks of concerts start on July 22 with hip-hopreggae legend Michael Franti. Then, Government Mule headlines the 5th Annual Jeezum Crow Festival on July 28.The Dark Star Orchestra returns to Jay on Aug. 4, and don’t miss Strangefolk’s Garden of Eden Festival Aug. 10-11. In early May, Jay broke ground on two synthetic turf fields which will provide a space for field hockey, soccer and lacrosse camps and tournaments. The fields will be complete this coming fall. Labor Day brings Jay’s 7th Annual Trail Run Festival, with races that go from 5K to 53.1K. “That’s a kick in the ass,” says JJ Toland, director of communications, of the 53K. “I ran the 25K on a dare and couldn’t walk right for five days.” Plan ahead for the 9th Annual Bean and Brew Festival on Oct. 13, which combines local coffees and beers, “so you get your highs and your lows,” says Toland.
Courtsey photo
Jay Peak’s summer line-up is red hot, with Michael Franti, Strangefolk and DSO.
Courtsey photo
Killington’s rope course and brand new Woodward WreckTangle are ready to turn you into a Ninja warrior.
SPEND 365 DAYS AT KILLINGTON Killington isn’t joking around about its summer offerings. It’s the first resort in the state to offer a 365-day pass, which includes access to the Adventure Center’s zip lines, trampoline jump, ropes course— plus the championship golf course, 30 miles of lift-served mountain bike trails, and skiing at Killington and Pico for 2018/19. Access to all summer activities as well as winter skiing is $99 a month ($1,188 annually, though you can only pay monthly). A winteronly season pass to Killington will cost $939 and $399 to Pico, if you buy before June 14. It doesn’t end there. The resort will host the Fox US Open of Mountain Biking from Aug. 1-5, bringing an international field of downhillers (past racers have included Sam Hill, Steve Smith, Tracey Mosely, Bryn Atkinson and Miranda Miller). The event will take place on a newly-built race course coming directly off Killington’s 4,241foot summit. Don’t miss the free concert and after party sponsored by Long Trail Brewing. If that weren’t enough, Killington is adding a Woodward WreckTangle to the Adventure Center. Those who watch the cable TV series “American Ninja Warrior” will recognize the giant obstacle course, with stations where players can jump, climb and crawl their way to a best time. The WreckTangle is connected to stations, so you can race with players all over the country. This May, Killington broke ground on a $16 million lift improvement project. Skier access to the South Ridge area will be completed this fall. A new 6-person high-speed bubble chairlift will shield skiers and riders from the elements while they ascend Snowdon Mountain, and the K-1 Express Gondola will be freshened up.
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u SCRAMBLE AT MAGIC Magic joined the year-round club last summer when they opened a nine-hole disc golf course and expanded the hours of the Black Line Tavern. Both will re-open for the summer on June 30 with a new back nine on the disc golf
Mount Snow kicked off summer with the Peace Pipe Rail Jam on May 26 (top). Taking off on two wheels at Okemo’s summit, right.
course. Plus, don’t miss the 4th of July Party with a live band and fireworks on July 7th. And on July 28, “because misery loves company,” Magic hosts the Red Line Scramble, a point-to-point foot race up the Red Line ski trail. The course will be a one-mile, extremely difficult and technical route with 1,500 feet of vertical climbing. Also new this summer, Magic will be replacing the Black Line chair with a quad chair (formerly Stratton’s Snow Bowl Poma quad) and adding mountain bike trails. MOUNT SNOW Mount Snow ends its winter season with a bang with the Peace Pipe Rail Jam May 26, with free skiing and weenies on the mountain’s final patch of snow. And that’s the same weekend the lifts open for downhill mountain biking at one of the biggest lift-served mountain bike parks in Vermont. On July 7, the mountain hosts Angry Orchard’s Rock the Roots Tour, with music from Sublime along with Rome, Dirty Heads, Lupe Fiasco, Pepper and Matisyahu. On Sept. 1-2, don’t miss the 24th Annual Brewer’s Festival, and the Wine & Harvest Festival
12 Summer 2018 vtskiandride.com
on Sept. 22. This fall, Mount Snow will officially open the epic new Carinthia Base Lodge. The 36,000-squarefoot, three-story building—six times the size of the existing lodge—will house several food outlets, a rental shop, retail and convenience store, and feature a modifiable interior that can host conferences and weddings during the summer. HIKE, BIKE AND DANCE AT OKEMO Okemo Mountain Resort added three miles of lift-served summit mountain biking trails to the Evolution Bike Park last year and they plan to add three to four more miles of trails every year from now on. Okemo’s mid-mountain Sugar House lodge will be open with a rental shop, Switchback BBQ and the outdoor deck. “It was really popular last year,” says Bonnie MacPherson, Okemo’s director of communications. “People would go up there to have lunch and take in the view and watch all of the action going on.” On June 9, ride with Vermont’s best cyclists in the Vermont Epic, which encompasses three events and four distances. The B2VT—one of the hardest single-day rides in New England—is 130+ miles; the VTMonster is 70 miles and 9,000 feet of vertical, and the VT 40 offers 40- and 20-mile options for recreational riders. Then, on July 12-14, Okemo will launch its first All Come Home
Music Festival with tribute bands honoring Neil Diamond, Talking Heads, David Bowie, Queen and more. Top it all off with the 10th Anniversary of Hops In the Hills, featuring more than 80 regional craft beers, ciders and with live music, craft vendors and food. THROW WITH THE PROS AT SMUGGS On Sept. 5-8, the 2018 Disc Golf World Championships come to Smuggler’s Notch Resort, drawing international pros and marking a milestone for Vermont’s professional disc golf scene. The total cash purse is upwards of $100,000 and the event will likely attract thousands of spectators. In conjunction, Smuggs is building a new disc golf pro shop. There, players can rent and buy all the gear they’ll need, including
Courtesy photos
EAT UP, RUN UP AT MAD RIVER On Thursday nights, head to Mad River Glen’s General Stark’s Pub for live music. From Memorial Day through Columbus Day, the Pub is open for dinner on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights from 4:30 to 8:30 PM. You can work off those meals on August 25 by running up Mad River Glen’s trails in the Sky Run.
r u o R Y i d e.. n a l . P
Don’t miss! VMBAFest 2018
Check out our NEW website showing where to ride at all of VMBA’s 27 chapters!
July 27-29, Sport Trails of Ascutney Basin vmba.org/event/festival
trail maps • conditions • events
June 23rd July 27th-29th Aug 18th Sept 16th Sept 23rd Oct 13th
Catamount Ultra 25K & 50K Trail Run Kids Adventure Games 100 on 100 Relay Start at the Bierhall Chris' Run 5K & 10K Trapp Cabin Run with Stowe Adaptive 5K & 10K Trapp Lodge Mountain Marathon & Half Marathon
Join us this summer for any events or to explore our diverse trail system and take advantage of the best trailhead on Vermont at the Bierhall at Trapp Family Lodge! For more information, visit trappfamily.com or call the Outdoor Center at 802.253.5719.
700 Trapp Hill Road | Stowe, Vermont
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u Classic returns. It’s an amazing chance to watch some of the world’s top pros compete just weeks before the U.S. Open in New York. YOGA, MOUNTAIN BIKING AND OBSTACLE COURSE RACING COME TO STRATTON Alterra Mountain Company, which acquired Stratton last season, is upgrading Stratton with $10 million of capital projects. A new lift-served mountain bike park could open as soon as fall, 2018. The design will start with 4.6 miles of beginner, intermediate and progression trails. local brews to take on the course. “Disc golf and craft beer go hand-in-hand,” says communications director Mike Chait. Also on the agenda: Smuggs hosts a summer solstice party with music, fire performances by Cirque de Fuego, vendors, go-kart races, fireworks and more on June 21. And Martell’s, a restaurant and bar down the road from Smuggs, will host Music in the Mountains, a weekly music series Thursday nights featuring local bands in their outdoor theater. TENNIS, TANGO AND ZIPLINING AT STOWE Several years ago, Stowe opened Stowe Rocks, the 40foot climbing wall in the new Spruce Peak Adventure Center, installed one of the longest zip lines in America, and launched a Treetops Adventure ropes and canopy climbing course. All are back online, starting June 23. Across Route 100, head to the Spruce Peak Folk Festival on Aug. 11 for an all-day affair featuring Josh Ritter & The Royal City Band, Anaïs Mitchell and Daniel Rodriguez of Elephant Revival. Then, on Aug. 18, the Stowe Tango Music Festival Orchestra plays at Spruce Peak Performing Arts Center. The same weekend, the Stowe Mountain Lodge Tennis
Next ski season, Stratton will see a new Snow Bowl lift that’s three times faster than the existing lift and is designed to minimize the impact of wind and weather. Yogis head to Wanderlust (June 21-24), a four-day all-you-can-yoga event featuring the world’s leading instructors, live music, top chefs and dancing. The North American Obstacle Racing Championships come
Courtesy photo
Top, pros come to play Smugg’s disc golf course in the World Championships. Yoga takes over Stratton at Wanderlust (top right) and worldclass tennis comes to Stowe’s Spruce Peak.
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u to Stratton for the first time on Aug. 10. On Aug. 16-19, Stratton hosts the Vermont Challenge, a four-day bike ride through southern and central Vermont. All summer there are concerts with acts such as The Marshall Tucker Band on June 30, and Gang of Thieves on Aug. 18. If you can imagine a festival of mountain running, 29029 is that: two days of running 29,029 feet (the height of Mt. Everest) up Stratton — 17 runs, Sept. 15-16.
SUICIDE SIX GOES DOWNHILL Big things are happening at Suicide Six. Last season the resort and its parent, the Woodstock Inn, did a complete revamp of the inn and base lodge. This summer, Suicide Six opens its long-awaited Elemental Bike Park. Vermont trail builder Sinuosity helped lay out six miles of flow trails accessible via the resort’s new quad chairlift. There are also downhill trails and jump lines and two pump tracks, a strider park, and a skills development area. At the base, you can check for a lesson with a certified coach, and rent a bike. There’s even a new website: mtbs6. com. Meanwhile, in March the Woodstock Inn & Resort opened Red Barn and Kelly Way Gardens for farmfresh meals and tours (see p. 38.) n
Photo courtesy Sugarbush
Sugarbush kicks off summer with the Brew-Grass Festival on June 8.
SUGARBUSH GETS FRENDLY On June 8, the ‘Bush hosts its annual Brew-Grass Weekend with a kickoff party Friday and a beer festival Saturday, featuring Vermont breweries and live bluegrass music. It wraps up with a 9-hole golf scramble Sunday. Then, on June 28, Sugarbush and pro snowboarders Jack Mitrani, Danny Davis and “frends” host The Frendly Gathering, with camping, art, yoga, local food, skateboarding and dance workshops. This year’s lineup includes: Twiddle, Greensky Bluegrass, The Devil Makes Three, Nahko and Medicine for the
People, Kamasi Washington, Trevor Hall and more. Mountain activities, including lift-served mountain biking, nine- and 18-hole disc golf courses, the 800foot zipline, bungee trampoline, bounce house obstacle course, scenic lift rides open for the season on June 23.
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Adventure
CLIMBING GROWS UP
Photo by Brian Diezel
Climbing is exploding aroundVermont with new indoor walls at resorts and new outdoor sites opening this summer. By Emma Cotton
Kris Fiore on Steppin’ Razor, a crimpy 5.13a/b at Bolton’s 82 Crag.
T
wo years ago, 18-year-old Sam Hayden was climbing boulders in a remote area near Readsboro, about an hour’s drive south from Mount Snow. A friend had invited Sam and his dad, Jason Hayden, to discover a new climbing area called “Rooftopia.” The name describes the spot well. It’s a concentration of massive glacial boulders with large, gnarled planes—roofs— hanging over the ground. To most passers-by, the spot is
nothing special.To these climbers, it was gold. Sam arrived with a good feeling.There was one boulder problem he had tried hundreds of times that year. No one had managed to climb it yet. Sam had competed at Junior Nationals for bouldering three times, and once placed seventh for speed. He’s put up more than 100 first ascents in the Killington area, and several in Rooftopia. With his dad spotting him from behind and three mattress-sized pads below, Sam clung to the boulder like a starfish, stemming with his hands wide and legs spread-eagled. His feet gripped the rock on two credit-card-sized edges, called crimps. His next move was the hardest—the one he had failed over and over. Pumping his arms in push-up form once, twice, three times, he launched his body almost entirely off the boulder, snagging a handhold up and to the right. With momentum and a few strategic foot placements, he pulled himself to the top. In the winter, the Hayden family can be found up on the slopes of Killington. Sam, now 20, used to be a competitive snowboarder, and competed at Junior Nationals for eight consecutive years. Sam’s sister, 17-year-old Mazie Hayden, is already a world-class ski cross racer and three-time USASA Open Class National Champion. She was also invited to compete at the Mountain Bike World Championship in Australia last year. Jason, their dad, was a Division I Nordic skier at Bates College. All of them climb. Sam and Mazie got hooked after attending a friend’s birthday party at the Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center, where Sam now coaches. The kids started taking clinics from the Rutland Recreational Center, and soon Jason found himself coaching. “Climbing definitely has a strong tie to skiing— especially ski racing” Jason says. “It requires you to read a route and figure out what you need to do on each section, and that’s very similar to the ability to read a course. And there’s the mental aspect of overcoming fear, especially in competition skiing, which is very similar to the challenges of climbing outside.” In recent years, Sam has put up more than a hundred first ascents at the DEKD Boulders near Kent Pond in Killington on a collection of glacial erratics. His favorite pastime, he says, is to explore the state with his dad,
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looking for new places to climb. While you won’t find the big walls of Yosemite or the towering peaks of British Columbia in the Green Mountains, Vermont’s technical, scenic climbing can be just as fun, if you know where to look. Increasingly, ski resorts are setting up climbing walls so you can learn or practice the sport indoors before heading for the mountains. “I love climbing in Vermont,” says Kris Fiore, president of the Climbing Resources Access Group of Vermont (CRAG-VT). “The climbing here is scrappy and sometimes dirty—and it takes some finding. But I travel to climb all around the country, and I’m never sad to come home and climb.” In both mountain towns and cities across the country, participation in rock climbing has exploded in the last decade. According to Climbing Business Journal, 4.6 million people participated in sport climbing, bouldering or indoor climbing in 2016—beating out both gymnastics and track and field. “We’re seeing trails more beaten out and parking lots get more full,” says Fiore. “When I go to the crag, there are more people than there used to be. It’s anecdotal, but climbers get good at climbing in the gym, and they want to go outside and see what it’s all about.” The climbing community is growing for good reason, as members of CRAG-VT, the official keepers of Vermont’s crags, continue to expand access to the state’s best outdoor climbing. And in the past year, the organization has been working to open two of the largest cliffs in Chittenden county to the public. Last December, CRAG-VT announced the opening of Lone Rock Point, a 55-foot limestone cliff in Burlington looking out over Lake
Photo courtesy Sam Hayden
Sam Hayden works a project at Rooftopia. Indoor climbing at Stowe Rocks (right).
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u Champlain that’s owned by the Episcopal Diocese of Vermont. “It’s some of the hardest climbing in the state,” Fiore says. “There are a few routes there that have never been climbed, and the limestone is very textured; it creates different holds.” Bolton Dome, a 250-foot cliff in Bolton, had been closed to climbing for 20 years as access was across private land. But when the land and house on it came up for sale, CRAG-VT bought the property, and it will open again this fall. “For 20 years, we’ve been
waiting,” Fiore says. The state also offers some of the best bouldering in the Northeast, from the rocks at Jamaica State Park to Smugglers Notch to the Northeast Kingdom. n “Bouldering is like a condensed puzzle,” Sam Hayden says. “I think boulders have more personality.” For Sam Hayden, Kris Fiore and others, there are still plenty of places to climb and explore. Here are a few local favorites: n
LOCAL FAVORITES (North to South)
If you want to discover Vermont’s best climbing, hire a guide (see p. 23) and consult Tough Schist,Travis Peckam’s guidebook to the northern part of the state, (also available as an app, at vermontrock.com)
SMUGGLER’S NOTCH Nestled between Stowe Mountain Resort and Smugglers Notch Resort on Route 108—the Notch’s giant schist, buttresses and hidden caves offer some of the best climbing and bouldering in New England. Climbs range from a 5.6 to a 5.14+, and the views are unbeatable. Many climbers have made the Notch their home base, including Pellett. “It’s a very mountainlike experience,” he says. “One of my favorite routes is the Quartz Crack Face. It’s got a lot of different features, it’s very exposed, it’s up high, and there’s a fun, dynamic swing that’s up off a corner of rock.” BOLTON If you’re looking for beginner climbs, look no further than Lower West Bolton, located 0.4 miles up Bolton Notch Road from Route 2. “Lower West is great because there are anchors there, and there’s a path around to the top, so it’s very easy to set up a top rope,” Pellett says. “There are 30- to 40-foot climbs there that beginners can get up.That’s really where I learned to climb.” Up the road, Upper West Bolton holds 200-foot cliffs for trad and sport climbing. The Bolton Quarry is a great spot for beginners, with a variety of grades and excellent ice climbing in the winter. For experienced climbers, try out the 82 Crag, home to Bolton’s best 5.9 and 5.10 climbs and spectacular views. This fall, CRAG-VT will open access again to Bolton Dome, a 250-foot cliff located off Route 2, and a climber’s dream. “There’s lots of boulders there, too,” Fiore says. “It’s got a little bit of everything.”
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If you want to find a crag like this, check the guidebook Tough Schist the Vermont
CENTRAL VERMONT “There are more than 200 established bouldering problems in Groton State Forest [east of Montpelier],” says Fiore.“If there was a good bouldering guidebook to this area, people would stop driving to the Adirondacks.” There are also good cliffs such as Marshfield Ledge, a granite cliff that rises 400 feet out of forests and wetlands, with climbing that ranges from 5.7 to 5.14. “It’s beautiful—no street noise, no cars around, excellent beginner terrain, and a pretty easy approach,” Fiore notes. Owl’s Head, also in Groton State Park, is a large cliff with steep rock and expert routes. In Killington, just above the Inn at the Long Trail, Deer Leap hosts more than 25 routes of sport and trad climbing. If you prefer to stay closer to the ground, walk about two minutes on the Appalachian Trail near Kent Pond in Killington to the DEKD Boulders, where Sam Hayden has put up more than 100 routes. Climb your way through the forest, with more than 80 problems already set, and many more that are currently unclimbed. SOUTHERN VERMONT While you’ll find most of the state’s granite, schist and limestone up north, there’s climbing to be found in southern Vermont if you look hard enough. Head to Ball Mountain Dam in Jamaica State Park to find bouldering and a few top-rope routes with easy walk-around access. And, if you recruit Sam Hayden for private guiding, he just might show you the ropes at Rooftopia (please note: this area is not currently open to the public).
Photo courtesy Kris Fiore
NORTHEAST KINGDOM “In Vermont, Lake Willoughby is one of the top ice climbing destinations in the country,” says Alden Pellet, who has made a number of Vermont’s first ascents and is considered one of the region’s most respected climbers. But that region is just as sweet in the summer. Wheeler Mountain is what CRAG-VT calls a “crown jewel” of Vermont climbing—granite with lots of cracks. Mount Hor offers multipitch climbs for experts. Practice your slab climbing on the south-facing Bald Hill, one of the most remote crags in the state, with routes that range from a beginner’s 5.6 to an expert’s 5.10.
WHERE TO START
Before heading out, hone your skills on an indoor wall at a climbing gym. More and more ski resorts are building indoor climbing walls and offering introductory climbing lessons. Rental gear and an indoor climb cost, on average, about $20 for an hour up to $40 for a day. Last winter, Jay Peak Resort put up its new 15,000-square-foot Clips & Reels Recreation Center, a climbing gym that houses 13 colorful climbing walls and rope courses. Stowe Mountain Resort’s Spruce Peak-based Adventure Center is the site of Stowe Rocks, which has a 40-foot tower, a 12-foot high bouldering wall and 50 routes, some of which are modeled after outdoor climbs at Smuggler’s Notch. Just over the mountain, Smuggler’s Notch Resort’s Fun Zone 2.0 includes a double-sided, 30-foot rock wall. Sugarbush’s Health & Recreation Center is home to a rock gym, and Okemo’s 25foot climbing wall has routes for all levels. A number of climbing gyms often offer belaying lessons, fitness classes and guiding services to get you ready for an adventure. In Burlington, visit MetroRock, home to the state’s tallest walls. PetraCliffs offers professional guiding services for all types of mountaineering, plus lessons, classes and camps. In Rutland and Quechee, stop by the Green Mountain Rock Climbing Centers, where owner Steve Lulek will take you for a spin on the crags and expert coaches, like Sam Hayden, will make sure your skills are up to snuff. In southern Vermont, visit the brand new bouldering gym, the BrattCave, in Brattleboro.
Photo courtesy Stowe
CLIMBINB GUIDES: And if you are headed out, it’s a good idea to work with a guide to get to know the top spots around the state: Adventure Spirit Rock Experiences, Burlington, adventurespiritguides.com Kingdom Adventures Mountain Guides, E.Burke, kamountainguides.com Lynx Mountain Guides of Vermont, Jay, lynxmountainguide.com Petra Cliffs Outdoor Guides, Burlington, petracliffs.com. Sunrise Mountain Guides, Stowe, sunrisemountainguides.com Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center. Rutland, vermontclimbing.com Vermont Adventure Tours, Rutland, vermontadventuretours.com
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Dream Home
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RE-FRESH WHAT CAN YOU DO WITH A 1980S SKI HOUSE? IN LUDLOW, TWO FAMILIES GIVE THEIR SECONDHOMES STUNNING MAKEOVERS.
BY LISA LYNN | PHOTOS BY MATTHEW NIEMANN AND OLIVER PARINI
A new entryway with a ski room (to the left), a storage room (far right) and a walk-out patio off the downstairs den make the home more functional .
vtskiandride.com Summer 2018 25
“
When I was a kid, my parents had a house in Newfane and I remember getting up at the crack of dawn to go ski Magic or Stratton,” remembers Kerry Berchem. For years, the lawyer from Fairfield, Conn. didn’t ski. “Then one day my husband, who had skied twice, wanted to take a family ski trip. With three young kids, I thought it would be a disaster,” she says. But they went to Okemo and loved it. “Everyone was so friendly and it was so laid back and not-New York,” Berchem says. They enjoyed Okemo so much so that a few years later they bought a 1980s-era four-bedroom home just off the slopes. “When we were looking for a house, my daughter wanted a separate living place for her generation, one son wanted a hot tub and the other a place on the mountain.” The house was on the mountain, had no hot tub and it needed work. “We started with a kitchen project, then we decided to do the bathrooms, then it snowballed,” Berchem says. She found designer Holly Hickey Moore, then of Burlington, and Burlington architect Jodie Fielding of Roots Design Studio, and they brought in Brandon-based builder McKernon. But as they began tearing down walls rot appeared, and the team realized the roof needed replacing. At that point, anything was fair game. Some simple architectural changes made vast improvements. Creating a new entryway allowed for a large mudroom (“that’s where all the drama happens in the morning when you’re ready to go skiing,” Berchem says) and a ski locker. Under the house, a space was enclosed for storage. “I want friends to use the place and for us to be able to lock things away,” Berchem says. “The whole look I was after was ‘ski chalet meets boutique hotel.” Or, “playfully sophisticated,” as designer Moore calls it. Start to finish, the remodel took less than nine months. Now, it’s a place that Berchem and her family are thinking they’ll move
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Photos by Matthew Niemann/Roots Design
Decks overwhelmed the original house (left), but it was large enough for Kerry Berchem’s family, with high ceilings and four bedrooms. The ground floor now houses kids’ rooms and a den. In the living and dining rooms (below), Berchem switched out the pine ceiling and Berber-carpeted floors for white oak. A new fireplace facade uses natural cleft slate, with sconces in white oak made by Burlington’s Conant Metal & Light. In the living room (below left), a new door to the right of the fireplace leads to the deck and new hot tub. Blue velvet swivel chairs found on Chairish.com and reupholstered add a post-modern touch. In the kitchen (right), a dining table, custom-built by McKernon, snugs up to a kitchen island, allowing seating for up to 14. Sleek, dark gray cabinets and white quartz counters pick up on the white/gray/blue color palette that anchors the house.
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Photos courtesy VIA
to at some point, full-time. “Everything is just so much more relaxed here in Vermont,” she says. Just down the road from Berchem’s house, another Connecticut family set out to update their 1980s era ski home as well. “They loved to come back to the house for lunch, often with friends, and wanted a lighter, airier kitchen,” says designer Sam Ostrow of Vermont Integrated Architecture in Middlebury. The solution, replacing the outside staircase with an atrium-style indoor one, solved that and several other problems. “It also let us reverse the interior stairs up to the bedrooms, giving a much bigger area and letting more light into the kitchen,” says Ostrow. At the same time, they added on a new entry and a mudroom and moved the hot tub to a lower patio. “They hardly used the deck and the new design lets more light into the lower rooms,” Ostrow notes. For both families, these renovations turned part-time 1980s ski houses into homes they can live in for generations to come.
Photos by Oliver Parini/VIA
Just down the road, another Okemo house gets an equally dramatic makeover. A new paint job, a new roof, a new entry and an enclosed addition didn’t change the footprint of the house much, but made a world of difference to its look, outside and in (top). The new staircase, encased in Marvin windows, rises two and half stories, becoming the main corridor for the house and leading to both the second-floor kitchen and third-floor bedrooms. The deck, which the family rarely used, was taken off and replaced with a smaller one behind the house. The hot tub was moved down to a ground level porch, just off the mudroom/ski room and winter entryway. Ashar Nelson (left), principal architect at VIA, tests the stairs he and Ostrow designed, along with the new cabinets and kitchen bar. The firm worked with local builder, Gassetts Group, to do the renovations.
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Evan Booth defies gravity on Killington’s flowy Black Magic.
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CAN GRAVITY-FED MOUNTAIN BIKING BECOME AS BIG AS DOWNHILL SKIING? Photo by Brooks Curran
KILLINGTON AND SKI RESORTS AROUND VERMONT ARE BANKING ON IT.
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colorful clothing ahead as we turned onto Scarecrow, where my vision quickly dropped to the boulders in front of my front wheel. Ahead, Phil, Austin and Carson had parked their bikes by the side of the trail and were animatedly discussing “lines.” As I followed them to scout the first pitch, my eyes – and my brain – adjusted to what they saw more clearly – a smooth rock to roll over, a trough of tacky dirt, and plenty of handlebar clearance between the trees. I was reminded of the core rule of riding and skiing: look where you want to go, not at potential obstacles. Back in the saddle, I steadied my bike and nerves. Following the boys, I puzzle-pieced together the rock, the dirt, and the space between the trees. Before any self-doubt had time to rise, I was rolling along a sunlit open slope with breathtaking valley views. I whooped with relief and joy.
Growing the Beast Killington’s mountain bike scene has come a long way since the late 1990s. Back then, “Beauty and the Beast” races called attention to the playful nature of the lower flanks of the mountain. Race organizers mapped out cross-country, downhill, and slalom courses that connected ribbons of singletrack with fire roads and grassy ski trails. As the notoriety of these events grew, so did Killington’s reputation. Susan Clifford of Hyde Park was an expert cross country racer at the time and remembers the courses that climbed from the Snowshed Base area, around Needles Eye and Skye Peak areas, and meandered over to the Ramshead area. “The trails were challenging in that they showcased the enormity of the terrain available at Killington, as well as the vertical drop.” As lift-access biking expanded across New England, Killington stayed focused on becoming the “Whistler of the East,” a vision
Photo byChandler Burgess/Killington Resort
I was feeling unsettled by the exposure as the K1 Express Gondola ascended steadily toward the summit. Through the windows, I scoured the forest canopy far below, looking for inviting snippets of trails and studying the straightforward dirt paths. Before I could reconsider my decision, the doors opened, and the lift operator handed me my trail bike. There was no turning back. Killington Peak’s 4,241-foot summit juts out from a ridge that sweeps in all directions with views to three states. Below, the land drops steeply to the wide basin, where the vertical fingers of ski trails spread neatly down through the forest cover. Miles of mountain bike trails snake between the ski runs. Some are fun and flowy trails like Slideshow Bob or the Light, trails that send you rolling down—fingers light on the brakes—through forests and open meadows. They are the moderate equivalents of blue square ski runs. Then there are the double black diamonds, like the corkscrew turns of Scarecrow. That was where I was headed, practicing for a race. I have raced around the country and Canada, surfing down Mammoth Mountain’s “kitty litter” sand, descending high speed switchbacks though Sun Valley’s lupine-covered meadows and tumbling down Whistler’s rugged rock faces. I’d raced my home terrain at Killington before, too. But when I learned that the course for the Eastern States Cup would include Scarecrow’s rowdy stretch of rock rumble, I knew I was going to have to get out of my comfort zone. At the summit, I paused. I sat on the saddle and adjusted my fullface helmet and goggles. Alongside me, my husband Phil Beard, and my twin boys, Austin and Carson, age 14, already had their bikes pointed downhill and were looking at me expectantly. I took a deep breath. “Ok. I’m ready.” We maneuvered along work roads until we ducked into the woods along a trail lined with wildflowers. I trained my eyes on my sons’
Photo by Brooks Curran
for gravity-fed trails that could serve beginner, intermediate and advanced riders. Today, more than 30 miles of trails span multiple peaks and Killington includes more beginner-friendly terrain than most bike parks— without sacrificing the gnarly and old-school vibe of early trails. “The [resort] has done a tremendous job modernizing the park,” explains Clifford, who caught some of her last runs of the 2017 season during peak foliage. “They’re showcasing the trendy jump trails and machine-built ‘flow’ trails, while staying true to their classic roots.” Classic design for bike trails isn’t that different than what’s done to keep ski trails “natural.” It often means embedding natural features: A long slab of slate rock makes up a section of Funny Bone and Low Rider takes riders on a loamy, dirt traverse through tight woods. The breadth of the mountain allows for different environments to be linked together within a single descent from the summit: you can dive into the historic Cable Trail, lined with bright green moss, ferns, and stunted spruce, launch into a hardwood forest to finagle the gnarled root ladders of Yo Vinny, and end the run by floating effortlessly along the hard-packed flow trail of Jump Start. Perhaps the biggest change has been the expansion into the Ramshead and Snowshed areas. That started in the summer of 2014 when Killington began spinning the Snowshed Quad and has allowed the resort to add in much more beginner and intermediate terrain. As Kristel Fillmore, Killington’s communications manager, explained: “Just like we have multiple peaks for all levels of skiers and riders, the same was bound to happen naturally in our Bike Park. Snowshed is a great place to start and we offer lessons on our skills track to get participants comfortable before heading up the Snowshed Express Quad.” Whistler’s Gravity Logic has consulted on the design and been engaged in building trails on the lower part of the mountain. For 2018, Killington has improved the beginner terrain, added the new Krusty Trail on Ramshead and extended riding hours.
The Playground “Killington went from having a handful of great trails that the locals loved, to being a bike park that can entertain first timers while drawing the best riders from all over the world,” says Jordan Newth, a West Rutland native whose professional downhill and enduro racing takes him around the country. The Snowshed area has become a one-stop shop for anyone who wants an introduction to gravity riding. Take a high-speed quad swiftly to the top and you can roll down on wide, mellow trails, with names like Easy Street and Step it Up. Flanking the Ramshead’s lift are Blue and Black Magic, trails with the freeride flair of berms and tables. From the top of the K1 Gondola, expert riders seek out the challenge of The Beast’s chunky rock gardens while others prefer the alpine wilderness traverse of Solitude. The 22,000 riders who visited the park on one July weekend alone last summer is proof that visitors are finding an option that is right for them. Kids with parents, packs of hard charging youth, and groups of friends often inter-mingle in the lift line. The 45-to-53 age group had the second highest percentage ridership in the summer of 2017. Still, it’s the “untamed” trails that Seamus Powell from Round Top, New York likes the most. Powell first raced at Killington in 2003, the year he began his pro cycling career. Since then, the four-time national champion in multiple disciplines (most recently winning the 2017 US Enduro National Championships) has ridden around the world. “Every venue has its own flavor based on the terrain available, but the accessibility and variety of riding at Killington is up there with any park in the country,” he says. He returns to race at Killington every season for what he describes as the “roots, rocks and wet conditions that are quintessential Northeast riding.” As good as the riding is, it is the social scene that Powell says makes Killington the place that he likes to go. “On any given weekend, I’ll see
Air is easy on the trails at Killington (top left) and the post-ride beers are cold at the Umbrella Bar.
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Author Kelly Ault (left) tickles her way down Killington’s Funny Bone. Ault won the 2017 Masters Women USA Cycling Enduro Nationals. Below, Killington’s summer bike map, now nearly as vast as its winter ski trail map.
Photo by Andrew Santoro
someone that I know, end up getting some food at the Umbrella Bars, or hanging out in a parking lot afterwards to talk about our day.” In 2017, MTBVT, working with Killington, hosted the Vermont Bike & Brew festival, which debuted as the state’s first downhill festival. The Vermont Mountain Bike Festival at Ascutney and the New England Mountain Bike Association Festival (NEMBAFest) at Kingdom Trails focus on cross-country riding.
Marketed as the “Beer-Loving Mountain Bikers’ Dream Event,” the event lived up to its promise as one part riding, one part entertainment and one part antics. The weekend-long event drew 500 people of all ages and abilities for organized rides, live music and wacky activities, such as a skinny bridge pond-cross challenge and a critical mass downhill ride. “Everyone was so stoked,” says Clifford, who came for the weekend and set up camp in the parking lot like many of the festival-goers. “There were revolving party laps at every lift. By the end of Saturday, I’m sure that most people had either connected with someone they already knew or met for the first time.” The riding continued well after the lifts stopped, with a whip-off competition, trials, tricks and night rides, all fueled by live music by the local band, The CopOuts. The energy still didn’t end there. “Killington had a huge bonfire set up in the camping area and the revelry went well into the night,” Clifford remembers. This year, the Vermont Bike & Brew festival again kicks off the summer season at Killington June 15-17, and in August the Fox US Open of Mountain Biking will draw world class athletes for downhill and enduro racers to the resort. Says Newth: “It’s no coincidence that races like the US Open have decided to move their events to Killington. And, I don’t think that’s going to stop any time soon.”
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GRAVITY DOESN’T SUCK
In the past two years, resorts around the state have made a big push building out networks of downhill mountain trails with berms and jumps, flowy downhill runs and rental shops with all the gear you need. Last year, Okemo cut the ribbon on new downhill trails. In July, Suicide Six opens the first miles of trails in a multi-year plan and this fall, Stratton will open its first lift-served trails. If you’re interested in letting gravity do the work for you, make a weekend out of lift-served, downhill riding. You may want to rent a full suspension bike with disc brakes. If you plan on going at any speed, consider a full-face helmet, upper body protection, knee and shin pads. Fortunately, all this is available for rent at most downhill resorts for about $100 to $165 (for a rental downhill bike, all your gear and a day ticket.) Want to take the lift up and ride down? Here’s where to go:
Burke
The network of 100 miles of Kingdom Trails in East Burke is legendary. But right next door, Burke Mountain Resort’s downhill trails are best enjoyed at high speed. Whip through bermed turns and ride up walls on favorites like Knightslayer, Dead Moose Alley and the J-Bar trail. Novice downhillers can develop their skills on Shire and Roly Grail—all with views to Willoughby Gap and Jay Peak. If you need further encouragement, the downhilling at Burke has earned the recognition of MTBparks.com as one of the top five mountain bike parks in the Northeast. For more cross-country trails and human-powered climbs, check out the nearby Kingdom Trails network, which also features a kid-friendly pump track, across the street from the Kingdom Trails Association Welcome Center. Après-bike: Mike’s Tiki Bar, a funky, fresh-air, food truck-serviced bar with a great selection of local craft beer on draft. Catch some live music on select evenings during the summer. Local shop(s): East Burke Sports, Village Sports. Don’t miss: New England Mountain Biking Association Festival, June 22-24. Also, catch live music and sample local brews at Burke’s Bike ‘N’ Brew at Burke Mountain Resort, August 11. Cost: Day tickets are $40 for adults 15 and older Friday through Sunday, and $30 for children and seniors. Twilight tickets (2-6 p.m. on Sundays and 3-7 p.m. on Thursdays) are $20 for adults and $15 for children and seniors. Opening day: May 26. More info: skiburke.com
Killington
Kicking it at Killington on the banked and bermed trails.
Killington offers 30 miles of downhill riding across five peaks with trails for the beginner, intermediate and advanced rider. The higher you go on the mountain, the more advanced the trails, with beginner and intermediate terrain located near the Snowshed and Ramshead areas. The lines are steep and the trails slash in and out of woods on trails designed by British Columbia trail builders Gravity Logic. This summer, Killington will unveil its new Krusty Trail in the Ramshead area, a 2.29 mile-long intermediate flow trail. Must ride: The Krusty Trail, Scarecrow, Gambler, Kon Tiki. Easiest trail: Anything in the Snowshed Express zone. Best cross-country trail: The mountain primarily features downhill trails, but cross-country style trails can be accessed in the South Ridge area or near Kent Pond in town. Après-bike: On-mountain, head for the Umbrella Bars or Preston’s. The Foundry offers craft cocktails and pond-front seating. The Lookout Tavern is a local staple, and features burgers and a great craft beer selection. Local shop(s): Alpine Bike Works, The Basin. Don’t miss: Vermont Bike ,N Brew, June 15-17. Fox Mountain Biking US Open, Aug. 1-5. Vittoria Eastern States Cup Enduro Series, Sept. 23. Cost: Day tickets are $60 for adults, and $40 for kids. More info: killington.com
Photo top by Brooks Curran; Bottom, courtesy Okemo
Okemo
On Okemo’s new beginner-friendly downhill trails body armour is optional.
Okemo made its first foray into lift-accessed riding last summer with four miles of downhill trails within easy reach of the main base area. These trails cater to beginner and intermediate riders as they weave in and out of pockets of forests from the top of Quad A to the bottom. The trails are suited for a variety of mountain bikes (no full suspension downhill rig needed here), making them perfect for any rider looking to start easy, or to develop skills before moving on to harder terrain. Must ride: The Spur, Black Eyed Katy. Easiest Trail: The Green Mile. Best cross-country trail: Uphill travel is not allowed on Okemo’s trails. Après-bike: Grab some Mexican, Cajun fusion food featuring locally sourced ingredients at the Mojo Café in Ludlow, and cocktails at Main + Mountain. Local shop: Mountain Cycology in Ludlow. Don’t miss: Hops in the Hills, August 3-5. Evolution Bike Park Demo Day, August 25. Park opens: June 23. Cost: $35 per day for adults (13 and older) and $25 per day for juniors (ages seven to 12), and free for kids six and under. Opening day: June 23. More info: okemo.com
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Mount Snow
Suicide Six
Thirty-two years ago, Vermont’s southernmost ski area was among the first to open its lifts and trails to mountain bikes. After hosting years of elite-level NORBA races, the resort’s 12-mile trail system continues to challenge all types of riders. For cross-country riders, the Base Loop is a fun, introductory loop. Downhill riders use the Canyon Express to access popular trails like Gateway, which, at 2.5 free-flowing miles is one of longest introductory downhill trails in the East. For those who like to use their full-body armor, Swamp Donkey offers a steep expert ride with large jumps and tall berms and winds in and out of the trees. This trail offers the opportunity for some air. You can rent both bikes and full-body armor at the base. Must ride: Swamp Donkey. Best cross-country trail: XC Base Loop. Easiest trail: Gateway. Après-bike: Pizzas and small-batch brews at Pizzapalooza & Beer Naked Brewery in Wilmington, or grab some fresh fried pickles, fried cheese curds and craft cocktails after your ride at One More Time (OMT) Billiards Parlor in West Dover. Local shop: Mount Snow Sports at the Grand. Don’t miss: Eastern States Cup Downhill Finals, October 13-14. Cost: $44 for one adult day ticket, $30 for one youth day ticket. Opening day: May 26. More info: mountsnow.com
This July, Suicide Six plans to unveil the first three miles of trails in its new lift-served Elemental Bike Park. “We’ll start out with blue, flowy trails,” says Suicide Six’s Nick Mahood, “with some jumps and small features.” In the plans are another three miles of trails, two pump tracks, a strider park for kids, a skills development area and downhill trails and jump lines for more advanced riders. The resort, owned by The Woodstock Inn & Resort, has been planning the park for more than two years and trail builder Sinuosity has been hard at work. “We’ll have the Vermont Symphony Orchestra playing here on July 1 with fireworks and it would be great to open it by then,” says ski area manager Tim Reiter. Suicide Six is also a sponsor of the Vermont Mountain Bike Festival, and a VMBAFest ticket will include free access to the lifts and a Friday night guided ride. For pedal-accessed trails, the Woodstock Inn also maintains some new downhill trails in the Mount Peg area. A fleet of premium Santa Cruz and Kona bikes in all sizes (kids too) will be available at the base. Must ride: The new flow trail has yet to be named. Best cross-country trail: Had over to Mt. Peg and scream down Cloud Drop. Après-bike: Grab a local burger at the Worthy Kitchen or at the Tavern at Woodstock Inn. Don’t Miss: Vermont Mountain Bike Festival, July 27-29, which will include a pass to ride the lifts at Suicide Six. Cost: $40 for adults, $20 for juniors. More info: mtbs6.com
Smugglers Notch
’ One of Vermont’s most family-friendly ski areas keeps its mountain bike focus on kids. Smuggs offers a two-acre downhill skills park with 350 feet of vertical drop. Kids can ride a magic carpet up, then test skills on two flow trails, a rock garden and a jump line. For those looking to learn, the mountain offers clinics for kids, families and a park-skills clinic. The resort has a fleet of full-suspension, hardtail, cruiser and even strider bikes for the littlest riders. In addition to the existing 15 miles of beginner and intermediate doubletrack, trail builders are restoring overgrown downhill alpine trails and plan to connect the resort’s doubletrack and singletrack trails to the Brewster River Mountain Bike Club trails. Must ride: Dale’s Trail, West Woodrun, Watson’s Wanderer. Best cross-country trail: Uphill traffic is allowed on Country Road Climb, Salmon Run, and all of the easiest trails in the park. Après-bike: Barbeque at Brewster River Pub & Brewery. Local shop: Smugglers’ Notch’s MTB Park & Bike Shop. Cost: $15 for one adult day ticket. Opening Day: May 26. More info: smuggs.com.
Sugarbush
If you ride the Super Bravo Express Quad, here’s the reward: Sugarbush’s 18 miles of trails weave in and out of the woods of Lincoln Peak on narrow singletrack. With sweeping views of the Mad River Valley, the 37 trails include long, technical descents and freeride features. You can challenge yourself at Lincoln Peak or sign up for a learn-to-ride clinic. The mountain features five beginner trails and 16 intermediate and difficult trails. Must ride: Domino Chute, Burly Maple. Easiest trail: For a long descent on easier trails, try taking the Super Bravo Express Quad to the Valley House Traverse. From there, take the Reverse Traverse and Heaven’s Gate to Lower Downspout and The Runout. Best cross-country trail: For a serious climb without the aid of a chairlift, try the Lincoln Peak to Castlerock Loop. This expert lap covers 2,237 vertical feet over the summit of Lincoln Peak. The Mt. Ellen Summit Trail is an intermediate route that climbs 2,600 vertical feet to the summit of Mt. Ellen. Après-bike: Castlerock Pub at the base of Lincoln Peak features favorite local craft beers like Lawson’s Finest Liquids, Hill Farmstead, Frost Brewing, along with Vermont farm-raised burgers topped with local cheeses. Local shop: Stark Mountain Bike Works. Don’t miss: Eastern States Cup East Coast Showdown, July 15. Cost: $40 per day for adults 19 and up,$24 per day for youth 7-18, and free for kids 6 and under. Opening day: June 23. More info: sugarbush.com
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From the top of Sugarbush’s Lincoln Peak, it’s all downhill.
TM
37th Annual
The Prouty™
Bike, Walk, Row or Golf to fight cancer at Dartmouth’s Norris Cotton Cancer Center
July 13 & 14, 2018 Register today at: www.TheProuty.org
A Table at the Farm As the days grow long, farms around Vermont set the table and invite guests in for some of the sweetest meals in the state.
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Photo Credit: Ali Kaukas\Outstanding in the Field
BY ABAGAEL GILES
At Fayston’s Bragg Farm, the farm where Ploughgate Creamery’s churns its small-batch butters, farmers and chefs chat with guests at Outstanding in the Field’s dinner.
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or more than 20 years the best place to taste the earliest zucchinis, delicate potatoes and other fresh vegetables Bob and Sara Schlosser grow in Wolcott was at the Stowe Farmer’s Market. Then, in 2010,the Schlossers invited their patrons to a Farm to Fork sunset dinner at Sandiwood Farm. The tradition has continued with two or three dinners a summer. Sara starts by serving appetizers and taking guests on a tour of the farm. The Schlossers set up a table in the greenhouse where they serve vegetable-centric favorites such as Swiss chard sushi rolls, toasted Jerusalem artichoke crisps, wood-fired pizza with chanterelles harvested from the farm, and desserts topped with maple whipped cream from the Schlossers’ sugaring operation. The menu is set according to what’s ripe in the Schlossers’ garden and one of the family’s goals is to offer meals at a variety of prices. Some are fancy three-course affairs, and others are more affordable. (The original chef was Sara and Bob’s daughter, Sandi, but this year’s dinners will be prepared by Sean Morrison, the executive chef at Stowe’s Plate restaurant.) Dinner is served at sunset, and family-style at one long table with seats for about 120. “This is community dining at its finest,” says Sara.
Why the surge in outdoor dining? As Helen Whybrow, chef and co-owner at Knoll Farm in Waitsfield mused when asked the same question, “What doesn’t taste good when eaten outside in the beautiful Vermont evening air?” Knoll Farm looks out at the Mad River Valley. It seems like the quintessential certified-organic Vermont farm yet the dinners that Whybrow serves twice a summer come with a twist. Whybrow is an expert in Middle Eastern cuisine and her open-air picnic-style dinners feature Icelandic lamb, fresh vegetables and live music. Guests are encouraged to bring lawn chairs and blankets. The lamb is entirely grass-fed in her pastures. The kebabs are marinated with warming spices like coriander, cumin, cloves and cinnamon. Sides are bright salads of fragrant, fresh-picked tomatoes, feta and olives or a roasted new potato salad with rosemary, lemon and a hint of sweetness imparted by dried fruits. Every meal comes with homemade pita or lavash topped with fennel and cracked pepper. For dessert, there are hand-made pies made with Knoll Farm blueberries. Across the mountains in Panton, butcher and farmer Alessandra Rellini shares her Italian heritage with guests in an idyllic farm setting near Lake Champlain. “When you come here, it’s like walking into
Photos courtesy Sandiwood Farm
F
Diners in the open-air greenhouse at Sandiwood
“It’s about so much more than the food,” says Maureen Sullivan, who has a ski home in Stowe and has traveled to Wolcott from Boston three times in the last four summers to participate in Sandiwood Farm’s dinners. “It’s an extraordinary place, in such an unusual setting. You’re dining on top of a hill at sunset,” says Sullivan. The farm offers views of Mt. Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak. In recent years, more and more Vermont farms have started inviting diners to enjoy the harvest onsite. The meals range from barbecue picnics to open-air fine dining in pastures and orchards. Costs range from $25 for the Friday night “Burger Night” at Shelburne’s Bread and Butter Farm to $235 for the elaborate, five-course, annual sit-down feast that Outstanding in the Field puts on. There’s even an event known as “Farm to Ballet,” a farm-themed ballet performance that is hosted at eight farms around the state where guests can sample fare prepared by local food trucks or the farmers themselves.
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an Italian home for dinner. Expect to be here for three to four hours,” says Rellini of Agricola Farm. One night every month of the year she offers an authentic eight-course Italian dining experience, featuring her pasture-raised pork. Dinners start with a quick tour of the farm and its characters (including the chickens, vegetable gardens, sheep and pigs) and conclude in the two dining rooms of Rellini’s 1850s Victorian-Georgian farmhouse. You don’t typically find pigs like Rellini’s in America, or Vermontinfused traditional Italian dishes like her frittelle– a fried dough stuffed with dandelions, homemade ricotta and foraged lamb’s quarters. Rellini likes eclectic cuts of meat, and her pigs are raised to grow slowly, to impart their meat with the tastiest, richest, most complex flavors possible. “The recipes are really simple,” says Rellini. “Our shoulder roast is braised in wine with rosemary and salt. That’s it. The point is that you use the highest quality ingredients, so the flavor of the
Photos courtesy Woodstock Inn and Resort
Farm are served salads with fresh snap peas.
Above left, the Red Barn at Kelly Way Gardens is also a classroom, offering courses in cooking, flower arrangement and food preservation. Woodstock Inn and Resort executive chef
Photo Credit
Rhys Lewis teaches and also helps prepare the special Red Barn dinners on summer Sundays.
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Stonecutter Spirits takes diners to all sorts of locations through its Adventure Dinner series. Here, diners enjoy a clambake a la plancha at Sunrise Orchards in Cornwall.
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in Bill’s family since 1908. The Appalachian Trail runs through the property, which is populated by Black Angus cattle, horses, Cornishcross chickens, turkeys and pigs. Bill and Cathy make their own beef sausage, pickles and sell beef and homemade jerky. At one of their year-round farm dinners, an appetizer might be fried celeriac topped with pickled ramps, spicy mixed greens and homemade sourdough bread. Main courses feature homemade sausage from their pasture-raised cows or braised beef with rhubarb gastrique and gremolata. The three-course dinners are white tablecloth affairs, complete with tabletop bouquets and candles. The meals are served regularly on Thursday through Saturdays, and the dining room seats 50 people. In May, The Woodstock Inn and Resort unveiled The Red Barn at Kelly Way Gardens, a dining venue set in a 19th century barn with
Photo by Carey Nershi
meat is allowed to come through.” Burger Night at Bread and Butter Farm has been a favorite of Champlain Valley locals since it was first launched in 2011 by farmers Corie Pierce and Chris Dorman. Farm staff serve 6-oz burgers made with grass-fed beef raised at the classic farm, which straddles the border between Shelburne and South Burlington. Everyone gets a heaping portion of salad, freshly picked from the garden that day. Food is served family-style to live music from local musicians on the rustic, wooden stage while everyone picnics on the green lawn by the barn. The front row is typically comprised of dancing kids. At North Pomfret’s Cloudland Farm, nearly every vegetable and cut of meat served is grown and raised on the 1,000-acre farm and served in a post-and-beam dining room built from white pine harvested onsite. The farmers are Cathy and Bill Emmons, and the farm has been
At Knoll Farm’s Kebab Night, guests tuck in to Middle Eastern fare made with certified organic, just-picked ingredients. Dinner comes with a view of the Mad River Valley and live
Photos by Peter Forbes
music by Some Hollow on July 27 and They Might Be Gypsies on Aug. 24.
a rustic-chic interior. The farm grows more than 200 varieties of organic vegetables, 50 varieties of herbs, 75 varieties of berries and 200 varieties of fresh flowers for the resort’s many rooms and its celebrated kitchen. Gardener Benjamin Pauly and executive chef Rhys Lewis host small Sunday dinners at the enhanced 19th century Red Barn in July and August featuring Vermont cheesemakers, farmers and bee keepers, as well as fruit from Kelly Way’s orchards, gardens and mushroom glen. The Barn will also host cooking classes. While many of Vermont farm dinners are regularly-scheduled events and occur more than once a summer, a few are more like true pop-up style parties. Imagine walking on a path through a field at dusk. Through a tunnel of trees ahead, you can hear laughter, people talking, glasses clanking. A cow bellows, and you can smell wood smoke and the sweet aromas of pork, fresh carrots and fingerling potatoes roasting over embers.You emerge into a pasture, and someone offers you a cocktail, “A Choice Bit
of Calico” or a “Blood in the Sand,” and a seat at a long, table. This is an Adventure Dinner, hosted by Middlebury-based craft distiller Stonecutter Spirits. Diners RSVP for a gathering limited to 50 to 75 people, get a ticket, and are texted the exact location of the dinner 24 hours in advance. Past dinners have been held in a woodland clearing at Sunrise Orchards in Cornwall, and in a pasture at Stitchdown flower farm in Bethel. The dinners consist of local meats with fresh Vermont herbs, fruits and vegetables. Menus are paired with craft cocktails built around Stonecutter Spirits’ Single Barrel Gin and Heritage Whiskey; the former of which won a Double Gold Medal at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Co-founder Sas Stewart, 35, says the goal is to curate a complete dining experience, from the locally-crafted props to the sites that host them, to the locally-sourced foods and spirits. Farmers and chefs chat with guests about the meal and past menus have included pork from Longest Acres Farm in Chelsea, butter
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from Vermont Creamery in Websterville, and cold brew coffee from Abracadabra Coffee Co. in Woodstock. Perhaps the most well-known farm dinner is one held annually by the Outstanding in the Field caravan as it crosses the country making stops in more than 80 locations.The organization prides itself on being “the world’s first pop-up restaurant–in a farm field.” It works like this: a single, long table adorned with a white tablecloth is set up in an extraordinary place where food is grown or produced. Over the course of four and a half or five hours, 100 to 200 guests share a communal, family-style meal comprised of ingredients grown or created onsite or nearby. The farmer’s story is told and celebrated through a farm tour. The meal is prepared by top chefs who offer wine and beer parings. On August 26, the Outstanding in the Field tour returns to Ploughgate Creamery at the Bragg Farm in Vermont’s Mad River Valley. The century-old farm is owned and operated by Marisa Mauro, who makes small-batch, European-style cultured butter.The meal will be prepared by guest chefs NateWard and Aaron Josinsky of Winooski’s Misery Loves Co., (a 2013 and 2016 James Beard Award semifinalist) which offers new twists on comfort food classics like poutine and chicken and waffles. Last, if you can imagine an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord in one of the most beautiful “barns” you’ve ever laid eyes on, you’ve arrived at the annual Vermont Fresh Network Annual Forum Dinner at Shelburne Farms. Vermont Fresh Network member restaurants partner with local farmers to prepare tapas-style dishes using the freshest Vermont ingredients. The event is held in the courtyard and former stables of Shelburne Farms’ red brick Coach Barn, on the shores of Lake Champlain.
FARM DINNERS NOT TOMISS
If you want to taste the freshest and most eclectic dinners in Vermont, book a farm dinner. Many farms offer just a few dinners each summer. Reservations are required and dinners sell out quickly so plan ahead. You can always call to see if there are last-minute openings or if additional dates have been added. Otherwise, to visit and sample from farms around the state, plan an itinerary for Open Farm Week, August 13-19, when farms set up everything from tasting stations to full dinners. Details at diginvt.com
Agricola Farm Dinner Club, Panton, June 23, July 7, Aug. 18, Sept. 8, and monthly yearround. 5:30 p.m. Cost: $75, BYOB. agricolavermont.com. Bragg Farm & Ploughgate Creamery, Outstanding in the Field 2018 Summer Tour, Fayston, Aug. 26, 3 p.m. Cost: $235 (includes wine and beer parings). outstandinginthefield.com.
Volunteers perform with the Farm to Ballet dance troupe at Shelburne Farms. The ballet will also perform at eight other farms around Vermont this summer.
Bread and Butter Farm, Burger Nights Shelburne, Certain Fridays June 29-Aug. 31, 4:30 p.m. Cost: $25. breadandbutterfarm.com. Cloudland Farm, North Pomfret, Thurs.-Sat., 6 p.m., Mid-June to Mid-October. BYOB. Cost: $32-$49. cloudlandfarm.com Kelly Way Gardens’ Red Barn Dinner Series, Woodstock, Sundays in July and Aug., 5 p.m. Cost: $55 + cash bar. woodstockinn.com
Multiple Locations: Project Farm to Ballet 2018 July-Aug., various times. Ballet: $20. Buy your dinner at onsite food trucks. farmtoballet.org.
Photo by Brandon Parrish
Sandiwood Farm Farm to Fork Dinners, Wolcott, July 21 and Aug. 15, 6 p.m. Cost: $50-85. sandiwoodfarm.com.
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Vermont Fresh Network Annual Forum Dinner, Shelburne, Aug. 5, 5 p.m. Cost: $75. Includes wine, cider, beer tastings. vermontfresh.net.
Photos Trent Campbell, Brent Harrewyn and Cloudland Farm
Knoll Farm Kebab Night, Fayston, July 27 & Aug.24, 6 p.m. Cost: $25 adults, $12 kids. knollfarm.org.
Alessandra Rellini (left) raises and butchers her own pork and lamb and serves a monthly Italian feast at her farm in Panton. The Vermont Fresh Network annual forum brings the state’s best chefs and farmers together at Shelburne Farms, below.
At Cloudland Farm, everything from the stuffed chicken with vegetable succotash and pickled carrots (above) to the white pine used in the dining barn is harvested from the farm.
The Vermont Fresh Network is a nonprofit dedicated to connecting Vermont farmers with local chefs and restaurants. Member restaurants enter into a buyer’s commitment to source at least 15 percent of their ingredients from Vermont annually. The forum is its annual fundraiser. This year, the event will start with a “Vermont Artisanal Products” tasting, where the state’s foremost cidermakers, cheesemakers, winemakers, brewers, distillers, and farmers present samples along with the stories behind their award-winning products. This is the place to taste just-picked heirloom varieties of bell peppers, tomatoes and melons, and to discuss the merits of different curd textures with your favorite artisan cheesemakers. Dinner is a grazing feast featuring tapas-style dishes by more than 80 of the state’s finest chefs. In the past, Leunig’s Bistro, Burlington’s renowned French restaurant has participated, as have Farmhouse Tap & Grill, Warren’s The Pitcher Inn and Bar Antidote of Vergennes. Every year, attendees vote on the “Best Bite.” In 2017, Juniper Bar and Restaurant and Thornhill Farm stole the show with their slow-roasted pork Cuban with spicy mustard, homemade pickles and Springbrook Raclette on a Red Hen Bakery Baguette. In 2016, Burlington’s Daily Planet served up a confit Cavendish pheasant thigh with madras curry, toasted coconut rice cakes, stone fruit chutney, and cashew brittle. The evening wraps up with an ice cream social, hosted by Strafford Organic Creamery. In 2017, the event attracted more than 600 diners. Part of the Vermont Fresh Network’s mission is to encourage people to take the time to get to know their food. And that takes time. Many of these meals are exercises in slowing down. You eat with a family of strangers, and you may have a glass of wine while taking a walk through the fields that grew the potatoes, nasturtiums and fresh herbs that appear on your plate. When you take your table to a farm, you get the rich satisfaction of sitting in the dusk with farmers and chefs and basking in a place that has nurtured others before you. n
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BACKCO BROOKS
IF YOU WANT TO CATCH VERMONT’S WILD TROUT, HEAD FOR THE HILLS. BY KIRK KARDASHIAN | PHOTOS BY JUSTIN CASH
Anglers seek out the native wild trout in Vermont’s clear, cold mountain brooks with as much fervor as skiers scout bacckountry powder stashes. Here, Chris Danforth casts for brookies in the Cold River, near Pico.
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OUNTRY
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Look with a jaundiced eye at trout fishing in the East, and you’ll see an experience orchestrated to match every angler’s wildest dream. In that dream, every fish is big and stupid. It gulps dry flies from the surface of the water with an almost reckless abandon, and then acts surprised when it realizes there’s a hook in its lip. With a natural drama, the fish runs downstream, upstream, does somersaults in the air. And when you’re just about ready to net the beast, it gets tired and moseys over to you like a cow who knows it’s time for milking.You reach down and heave the trout from the water, admire its reds, greens and yellows, its black spots and generous girth, smile for the camera, and do it again. I call this an “orchestrated” experience because, sometimes, that’s what it is. At least in Vermont, where I fish. Here, the state Department of Fish and Wildlife (DFW) has a “trophy stocking” program where fisheries biologists raise rainbows and browns in hatcheries — open ponds and concrete raceways — for two years, fattening them up to 20 or more inches, and then drive them in a flat-bed truck with an aerated tank to seven rivers around the state. DFW is even kind enough to post the times and places they’ll be stocking, and keen anglers show up just as the disoriented cast of bruised, domesticated trout get in position.You can almost imagine the director of this production calling the shots from the river bank: And…cue the trophy fish! OK, cue the anglers! Commence casting! Fish, lurk in the slack water and take occasional sips. Now, bite the dry flies! And…that’s a wrap! This, of course, is a crude caricature of reality. There are plenty of rivers in Vermont with wild trout. It’s just that most anglers ignore them. But not Ron Rhodes. Rhodes, a River Steward for the Connecticut River Conservancy, likes to fish for wild brook trout on small streams. He’s probably the only angler I know who’s perfectly happy catching 8-inch brook trout all day long. Brook trout need clean, cold water to survive, and the White River watershed has some of the cleanest, coldest brooks in the state. A few friends and I wanted to see if we’d get hooked on the small fries, too, and Rhodes agreed to show us some of his haunts. On a hot day in the last week of May, with azure skies and cottony cumulus clouds lording over fully bloomed forests, we pile into my minivan in Woodstock and drive to Royalton to meet Rhodes. It’s me, Justin Cash (a photographer) and Chris Danforth (a former marketing guy for Killington resort). Our fourth — Justin’s longtime friend John Bergman — is up here from Manhattan, getting some R and R from his stressful job on Wall Street. We’re all accustomed to fishing for rainbows and browns — Danforth has a picture of himself with a 24-inch trophy brown trout on his Facebook page — so this expedition is adding some jazz to an otherwise monotonous fishing season. It’s also sharpening our vocabulary.What, after all, is the difference between a brook, a stream and a creek? En route to at least one of these classes of waterways, the question suddenly becomes pertinent. “I scoured the internet,” Cash says, “and came up with nothing!” Then Bergman adds to the confusion: “And what’s the difference between a creek and a spring creek?” he asks. Cash is happy to educate him. “A spring creek is a creek fed by a spring,” he says. “Really?” Bergman responds. “Because I thought it was a creek that filled up in the spring and dried up in the fall.” The Oxford American Dictionary settles it: a brook is a small stream; a
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stream is small river, and “creek” is synonym for a brook or a stream. A spring creek, Rhodes points out later in the day, is a slow, flat watercourse fed by subterranean aquifers. Between Woodstock and Royalton are two sizeable hills, each with brooks creasing their many folds. To go from one town to the other is to enter a different watershed, though few people think of geography in these terms. True, all water does flow downhill to the ocean, but on the way it travels through a landscape of towns, schools, roads, gas stations, forests, parking lots and fields. The flavor of that landscape seasons the water in the watershed. If the landscape tastes like oil and coolant that drips onto asphalt parking lots, so, to a certain degree, will the water.The White River watershed is one of the freshest-tasting in the state because the landscape there is mostly undeveloped. Still, even the White River no longer holds brook trout, Vermont’s only native stream-dwelling trout. In fact, only two bona fide rivers in the state — the Battenkill and the Castleton — contain brook trout, and that’s because they’re spring fed and therefore stay cool enough to harbor them. But this wasn’t always the case. Two hundred years ago, all the fish in rivers and brooks were either brook trout or varieties of Atlantic salmon. What happened? Well, to put it simply, the Industrial Revolution. In Vermont, that movement
took the form of clear-cut forests, saw mills and, later on, pollution from dairies, canneries, tanneries and slaughterhouses. The fisheries became so depleted that the state started stocking rainbow trout from California in the 1880s and brown trout from Germany in the 1890s. These fish were heartier and could survive in rivers that reached temperatures of 80 degrees. They also had the effect of elbowing brook trout out of smaller rivers where the food supply was more limited. Environmental regulations cleaned up the rivers, but the lack of shade along the banks has made the larger bodies of water too warm. So, the brook trout retreated to their current neighborhoods, in tree-covered upland streams and brooks above 1,000 feet.
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Rhodes, a tall, slim guy with a close-cropped beard, meets us in Royalton and pulls out his Gazetteer, a topographic map with roads and natural features. When he’s prospecting for brook trout, he looks for thin blue lines that bisect closely spaced contours — in other words, waters with some quick elevation loss. These brooks descend small valleys in hundreds of plunge pools. The pools create slow water behind boulders, and that, Rhodes says, is where the fish like to hang out. “The road is also a concern,” he adds. “You want to find a dirt road or a logging road, because they’re even shadier than the paved roads.” We follow Rhodes eight or ten miles north to Chelsea, situated at the bottom of the many hills that rise in all directions. Passing the white, Colonial-style courthouse and town clerk’s office, we turn onto a side road. As we suit up in our waders, Rhodes gives us some preliminary advice. “If I’m brook trout fishing,” he says, “my number one fly is the elk-hair caddis; a size 12 or 14.That’s because the caddis hatch in the slow water, where the fish are.” Danforth, a Colorado native who’s had the entire month of May off to fish for big stocked trout, wants to know what we can expect in the size department. “Any chance of catching something in the 16-inch
Through his work with the Connecticut River Conservancy, Pomfret’s Ron Rhodes (above) helps towns and businesses to clean up watershed pollution and enhance habitat for the benefit of both fish and fisherman like Chris Danforth (top left).
range?” he asks timidly, afraid of the answer. “The best you can hope for is 12-inches around here,” Rhodes says, explaining that these streams have less space and less food than rivers, so the fish grow accordingly. Plus, this is a harsher environment for trout — they live maybe five years. On the other hand, Rhodes offers, “brook trout aren’t the pickiest fish, because they can’t afford to be.” They need food and are liable to strike at something that looks appetizing. But in no case will they take a fly dragging down the water; here, as in most rivers, it’s all about line management. We scramble down a bank into the brook, which is about 10- or 15-feet wide, with big boulders scattered among smaller rocks and pools. We’re all using some variation of 3-weight rod, seven or eight feet in length. You could go much smaller — a zero-weight, for instance, would work — but none of us has procured such an animal. On the bank, below a paved road still shady enough for Rhodes’ liking, Rhodes takes Danforth’s rod and gives him a few pointers. There are two kinds of small-stream fisherman, he explains: those who hide behind rocks and make longer casts, so as not to spook the fish, and those who walk right up to a hole and keep every possible inch of line out of the water, to have the cleanest presentation. The former method is good for its element of stealth, but a longer cast in these tight quarters is more likely to get hung up on something. Rhodes is a close-to-the-hole guy. He casts upstream, keeps his rod tip high and lets the fly float down the brook toward the fish. This proves effective: on his first cast, after walking right through a deep pool, Rhodes hooks into an eager brook trout. We all take that as a good sign. And it is, because shortly after we split up and stake out our positions on the water, we each catch fish ranging from four to nine inches. Now, those numbers would be laughable anywhere else, but here it feels right. The water is small, and so are the fish. They don’t hit like bulls, but it’s fun to watch them dart up to a fly as big as their head and try to ingest it. And the setting is perfect for impatient fishermen: you make five or six casts, hitting all sides of a hole, then move on to the next one.You can fish a single stream for hours this way, slowly working your way up and up, looking for that next little pool, that next perfect boulder. Come back next year and, because of the force of ice and snow melt, the stream will have changed. “A boulder that you or I couldn’t begin to move will be twenty feet downstream,” Rhodes says. “Your favorite hole might be gone, and you’ve got to find a new one.” An hour or two later, after walking up this stream that wends behind some classic Vermont farmhouses — cobbled together, strewn with junk — we drive to another location, this time on a dirt road. The brook is steeper, darker, more primeval. Big tree trunks cross it like random matchsticks. Glassy pools spill over mossy ledges. The sound of the cascading water is only broken by the occasional rumble of a vehicle on the road, or a crow screeching at us. We pull a few tiny brook trout out — Cash nearly smacks himself in the face with a 2-incher after setting the hook a little zealously — and are ready to call it a day. Back in South Royalton, at a bar called Crossroads, we sip PBRs on the deck and watch the comings and goings of the sedate town. Brick storefronts — a co-op food market, a deli, a hair salon — face the gazebo on the green. We remark how the day opened our eyes to the possibilities for fishing in places you wouldn’t describe as much more than a ditch. Danforth isn’t about to leave his porno fish. I’m thinking about getting a zero-weight rod. n
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GEAR
TRAIL TO TAP ROOM The gear you need to get you from the trail to the brewpub.
A CUSTOM HIKING BOOT Finally, a ski-boot manufacturer is using the same custom-moldable fitting technology for hiking boots. This spring, Tecnica introduced its game-changing Tecnica Forge GTX ($270). Here’s how it works: Fit technicians (available at Outdoor Gear Exchange in Burlington and Pinnacle, in Stowe) heat mold the boots and insoles to your foot so that it hugs the arches and eases up at the pressure points such as ankle bones. As anyone who has ever endured blisters knows, the slightest extra space in a hiking boot is not your friend. And boots that are too tight are just plain painful. These are Goldilocks-perfect.
VT-BREWED RECOVERY Imagine a band of ski racers, a pro bike racer and some maple-tapping cousins all got together to make a sports recovery mix. That’s what pro cyclist Ted King, several of the Cochran cousins (of Cochran’s Ski Area) and publicist Andrew Gardner did. Their first UnTapped product was single-serve packages of 100-percent pure maple syrup. Now, the team has produced two drink mixes. UnTapped’s Ginger Mapleaid ($24.95) combines stomach-soothing ginger with sea salt (for electrolytes) and, of course, some maple syrup to sweeten it and provide some calories. There’s also Lemon Tea Mapelaid.
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TOUGH GUY SHORTS With four mountain biking festivals this summer, it’s time to update your kit. Louis Garneau’s Derby short ($119) is named for Derby, Vt., where Garneau has its U.S. headquarters, just north of Kingdom Trails. These shorts are tough, stylish and what you might expect if a pair of Carhartts and dress pants made a baby. The fabric feels almost like a heavy denim, providing plenty of protection from branches and rocks, but it’s remarkably soft and stretchy. It’s a long short, but with no seams on the inside of the leg, it doesn’t ride up or chafe. The waist is cut low in front and the wide waist band cinches together with a draw string. The Derby comes with detachable Drytex inner shorts with a comfy (but not overly padded) double-density foam Chamois cushion and is compatible with other Garneau inner shorts.
A HAMMOCK TO GO
Hammocks are having a moment and in Vermont, where it’s hard to find a flat piece of land to pitch a tent or a camp chair, they’re increasingly popular. At just 9.8 ounces, Eno’s Super Sub Hammock ($84.95) is parachute-light (and made of ripstop Nylon). It’s a one-person hammock that can hold up to 300 lbs. but has the same dimensions as the Double Nest. You will need a suspension system for the hammock and the Eno Helios system, 6.5 ounces and $44.95 is recommended.
A RETRO PACK
There are plenty of neon-colored technical backpacks that are, in a word, awesome. But we love the Wenzel Boulderdasch ($44.95) because it is not one of those. But it’s equally awesome, in a retro way. With a pocket for a laptop, a padded back (done in plaid), adjustable straps and two ample outside pockets, this is the pack that you can wear to a Vermont Symphony Orchestra concert in the meadows at the Trapp Family Lodge. Or to the Frendly Gathering at Sugarbush. Or for a day-hike. It looks like a canvas pack that you might find in an Orvis or Barbour catalog, but it’s made from a stiff polyester and is surprisingly affordable.
THE SHELL TO PACK
At just 11.6 ounces, and made from Ascentshell 3L Nylon fabric, Outdoor Research’s Interstellar ($299) is light, stretchy and breathable. And it keeps the wind out.What we really love too is that it stuffs into its own pocket. Now about that weather-proofing: on the plus side, the hood fully covers your head and face and has a collar you can turtle down into. The backflip is nice and low. Plus, it comes in men’s and women’s sizes with some stylin’ colors. It’s great for anything except a raging downpour, when you might consider a heavier-duty Gore-Tex jacket.
vtskiandride.com Summer 2018 52
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RETRO VT BY ABAGAEL GILES
TIME TRAVEL At these famous farms and grand estates, get a taste of life in Vermont 100 years ago.
G
rowing up in Vermont, I always felt like there were a million and one things to do on a summer day that were more pressing than piling into the family car to visit a museum. There were swimming holes to explore, blueberries to pick, mountains to hike, and fish to catch. But when we arrived at these historic places, there was always this very compelling feeling of stepping back in time. Even as a kid, I remembered wondering who else ran around that same pasture or thought to climb that big old tree? Vermont has been home to two presidents, the Lincoln family, and members of the Vanderbilt family. The grand estates these people left behind now give visitors a chance to step back in time and peer into someone’s home, left almost as it was when they lived there – furnishings, artwork, letters and all— creating an intimate, interactive experience. What’s more, life still goes on at these homes much as it did 150 years ago. Many are working farms that turn out artisan cheeses or homemade breads. On most, there are still miles of paths to walk and farm animals to pet (or sometimes even milk). At these four historic sites, it’s easy for kids and adults to reimagine themselves in a different era in the Green Mountains. THE LINCOLN FAMILY FARM It’s hard to think of President Abraham Lincoln without imagining him with his stovepipe hat. Only three of those are still in existence and one of them is at Hildene, the estate Lincoln’s son Robert built on the Battenkill outside of Manchester. Robert was the only one of Lincoln’s sons to survive to adulthood. He became president of the Pullman Company, which was the largest manufacturing company in the world at the time. In 1905, Robert and his wife Mary built Hildene, a 24-room Georgian revival mansion, on a promontory
overlooking the Battenkill Valley. His descendants lived there until 1975 and in 1978, the 412-acre property was purchased by a non-profit and restored. In addition to the furnishings (which include a 1908 Aeolian pipe organ) you can find a 1903 Pullman Sunbeam railway car on the property, which was designed under Robert’s leadership. Take a stroll across the 600-foot floating boardwalk that traverses the farm’s wetland, or hike on one of the estate’s many trails. The 19th century gardens are home to more than 1,000 peonies, and the working goat microdairy is the place to watch cheese being made.You can witness everything from milking the herd of Nubian goats to aging Havarti to packaging the fresh Hildene Farm chèvre. If you’re visiting with kids, be sure to bring them to the butterfly and observation gardens, which were reportedly the favorite play areas of Robert’s grandchildren. hildene.org
Abraham Lincoln was born in a log cabin. His son Robert built the 24room Georgian revival mansion, Hildene, above. Below, see one of Lincoln’s three surviving top hats, or taste some freshly made Havarti when you visit.
CALVIN COOLIDGE’S HOMESTEAD Nestled in the mountains between Ludlow and Killington, the President Calvin Coolidge Homestead and town of Plymouth Notch feel like a time warp. Fifteen buildings make up this preserved village which looks much as it did in the 1800s. Even the powerlines have been buried, and it’s easy to imagine yourself there in 1924 when Calvin Coolidge was sworn in as the 30th president of the United States in the middle of the night at his parents’ farmhouse.
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RETRO VT
Coolidge loved the hilltop village and nearby trout streams so much he tried to relocate his White House here in the summer, as documented in the exhibit “Presidential Holiday: The Coolidge Summer Retreat,” which runs until October 21. Apparently, he got so far as to move his staff fromWashington, D.C., into Plymouth Notch’s Grange Hall during the summer of 1924. The hall, general store, white clapboard Coolidge family farmhouse and barns are all restored and furnished in the era.You can also visit Coolidge’s gravesite on the property. In 1890, Calvin’s father, Colonel John Coolidge, along with four other local dairy farmers, built the old Plymouth Cheese Factory. Calvin’s son, John, took over the factory’s operation in 1934. Today the factory is part of the museum. Cheesemaker Jesse Werner found an old recipe taped to the factory walls and derived his cheddar recipe for Plymouth Artisan Cheese from it. You can literally taste history here. historicsitesvermont.gov; plymouthartisancheese.com
AN ESTATE FOR THE VANDERBILTS If you want to see how the top 0.001 percent lived at the turn of the century, take a tour at the furnished Shelburne House (now The Inn at Shelburne Farms), built in 1888 by Dr. William Seward Webb and Eliza Vanderbilt Webb. But the best part is the tour ends with tea in the estate’s terraced gardens on the shore of Lake Champlain. If you want to spend more time there, take a dip in the lake which laps up on the pebble beaches, book dinner at the stately dining room or consider checking into one of the 24 rooms and four cottages, each furnished with period antiques from the family’s collection. The Inn is the jewel of the 1,400-acre Shelburne Farms, designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (the landscape architect behind New York City’s Central Park). The property includes several vast barns, including the Coach Barn, the Dairy Barn, the Breeding Barn, and the Farm Barn, which at the time they
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Photos by Vermont Division for Historic Preservation; Billings Farm and Museum
Calvin Coolidge was born in the house attached to the general store (above) in Plymouth Notch in 1872. Below, the Billings Farm and Museum’s Farm Life exhibit features a 19th century general store, complete with period pharmaceutical wares and a post office.
THE BILLINGS’ FARM If you’ve ever wondered about the nitty gritty details of how people survived in Vermont’s small communities prior to widespread refrigeration, electricity and modern highways, The Billings Farm and Museum’s “Farm Life” exhibits give a glimpse of Vermont daily life a century ago. Housed in four original barns from the 19th century, the exhibits tell the history of general stores, ice harvesting and maple sugaring. One exhibit details a typical morning in the life of a rural housewife circa 1890. The farmhouse, built by railroad entrepreneur Frederick Billings in 1890, was considered state-of-the-art in its day and contains a farm office, furnished with period typewriters and clerical tools, a kitchen complete with a wood-fired stove, and beautiful antique furniture. There is also a furnished creamery, which produced 5,000 pounds of butter annually through the early 1900s. A cow from the farm’s Jersey herd was designated the “Champion Heifer of the World” at the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago. The original flock of sheep was imported from the Prince of Wales’ personal herd back in the 1860s and 1870s. Cows and sheep still graze on the farm’s 248 acres. The house and much of the commercial farm are open to the public with guided tours, children’s farm programs, milking workshops and opportunities to meet the farm animals. On Time Travel Tuesdays, kids can dress up in 19th century clothing and participate in chores using period tools in the old farmhouse. They’ll learn to churn butter, cook a meal on the woodstove, sew and play classic games like tiddlywinks. The museum also offers pre-packed backpacks that families can check out. The backpacks come with the tools to embark on a kid-oriented, self-guided walk through the property’s gardens and farm facilities. For the foodie, The Billings Farm provides fresh milk to Grafton Village Cheese, and you can taste and purchase Billings Farm Cheddar at the museum. billingsfarm.org
Photos courtesy Vermont Division for Historic Preservation; Shelburne Farms
were built were among the largest Tudor-style barns ever constructed. Eliza was a member of the Vanderbilt family, then one of the wealthiest families in America. Her $10 million inheritance helped create the estate which her descendants, the Webb family, turned into a non-profit focused on agriculture education and sustainable farming. At the Farm Barn, just a short walk or drive away from the main house, you can watch Shelburne Farms’ award-winning cheddar being made (sample the Tractor Cheddar for a sharp taste of old Vermont) and learn to milk a Brown Swiss cow. Don’t miss the chicken parade at the Children’s Farmyard and be sure to buy a loaf of sourdough spelt artisan bread or a ginger molasses cookie from O Bread Bakery, which the Conway family has been operating in one wing of the Farm Barn since 1977. If you’re looking to take a hike, plan a picnic on top of Lone Tree Hill with its stunning view of New York’s Adirondack Mountains across Lake Champlain. At the nearby Shelburne Museum, view Impressionist paintings, dollhouses, antique firearms, and quilts from the 19th and 20th centuries and rare hatboxes collected by Eliza and William’s daughter, Electra Havemeyer Webb. The collections are housed in 39 barns, houses, blacksmith shops, and other buildings. Be sure to explore the inner cabins of the steamboat Ticonderoga, which was hauled nearly two miles to the museum from Lake Champlain in 1955. If they are good, take the kids to tour the relocated Colchester Reef lighthouse, and if they are bad, to the Castleton Jail. After, head across the street for penny candy or a maple creemee at the Shelburne Country Store. shelburnefarms.org and shelburnemuseum.org 3 MORE SLICES OF LIFE For a different take on local life, these three museums are little gems. Ferrisburgh’s Rokeby Museum is a restored Quaker homestead and perhaps the best-preserved Underground Railroad site in the country. The museum’s ongoing exhibit “Free and Safe: The Underground Railroad in Vermont” documents the stories of Simon and Jesse, two fugitive slaves who took shelter at Rokeby in the 1830s. The museum is
an homage to Vermont’s role in the Underground Railroad and you can take a walk to the ruins of the Brick Academy, founded by Rowland Robinson in 1839 prior to public high schools, where students studied extreme pacifism. Rokeby.org Since 1884, Middlebury has operated the oldest community-based museum in the country, The Henry Sheldon Museum. This summer, poignant black and white photos from the 19th and early 20th centuries document life this central Vermont village: baseball games, family portraits and school photos from Addison County adorn the walls of the 1829 Judd-Harris House for the exhibit “Our Town: Love, Joy, Sadness and Baseball.” The photos were restored and enlarged by Middlebury resident and retired National Geographic photographer James Pease Blair. henrysheldonmuseum.org It’s not every day that you see a Gothic Revival farmhouse in Vermont, but at the Justin Morrill Homestead, the dramatic architecture and gardens filled with serpentine walkways, magnolia, roses, and herbs transport visitors to a different time. The home was built in 1851 and is located in Strafford. After leaving high school at age 15, Morrill went on to become a Congressman, representing Vermont in the House and Senate for a combined 44 years He is credited with the Land-Grant Act, which provided federal funding for schools that taught agriculture, business, engineering, and economics. When you’re done, stop by nearby Strafford Organic Creamery for decadent, farm-fresh ice cream. morrillhomestead.org or straffordcreamery.com n
The Farm Barn at Shelburne Farms now houses a bakery and a cheesemaking facility.
FARMHOUSEGROUP.COM
vtskiandride.com Summer 2018 55
THE GREEN MOUNTAIN CALENDAR JUNE 1-3 | The Strolling of the Heifers, Brattleboro Watch calves parade through downtown, the goat Olympics, or compete in a pie-baking contest. Save energy for a 60-, 30- or 15-mile bike ride. strollingoftheheifers.com 1-3 | Coyote Scramble Ultras, East Burke Kingdom Trails hosts three days of trail running with suggested distances for each day. Post-run activities include bowling and live music. coyotemoonultras.com 3 | Onion River Race & Ramble, Bolton Paddle ten miles down the Winooski River in Vermont’s largest river race. Cruise to the finish for a post-paddle party and live music. winooskiriver.org 3 | Covered Bridge Half Marathon, Suicide Six Ski Area Experience some of the most beautiful covered bridges in Vermont while running one of the most stunning 13.1 mile stretches in New England. cbhalfmarathon.blogspot.com 8-10 | Tour De Kingdom: The June Tour, Newport Get ready for five days of supported long-distance road rides through the Northeast Kingdom, totaling nearly 300 miles and thousands of feet of climbing. tourdekingdom.com 9 | The Vermont Epic, Okemo Mountain Resort Cyclists gather for three events. The Vermont Monster is a 70-mile gravel grinder with 9,000 feet of climbing. The B2VT ride is 132 miles with 8,400 feet of climbing as it travels from Bedford, Mass. to Okemo. Forty-mile rides are also available. vtepic.com 9 | The Moose Century Ride, East Burke Ride or race 103 miles of paved road in the NEK for the chance to win Burke Mountain passes, beef jerky, maple syrup and more. kingdomgames.com 14 | Vermont’s Toughest Tri, Burke Mountain Resort Billed as the state’s most challenging triathlon. Swim 2.4 miles in Lake Willoughby, bike 112 miles (with 8,000 feet of elevation gain) and run a marathon with 5,000 more feet of climbing before landing back at Burke. skiburke.com 15-17 | Vermont Bike & Brew, Killington Mountain Resort Killington hosts one of the largest downhill-oriented bike festivals in the East, with a skinny bridge challenge, whip-off and onsite camping. killington.com 16 | 7th Annual Mad River Valley Golf Tournament, Warren Sugarbush hosts an 18-hole scramble on Fathers’ Day. All proceeds go to Waitsfield’s Mad River Valley Ambulance Service. sugarbush.com 23 | Catamount Ultra 25/50k Trail Race, Trapp Family Lodge/Stowe This race features 25K and 50K courses that circumnavigate the Trapp Family Lodge trail system on wide, hard-packed dirt trails. catamountultra.com 23 | Route 100 – 200 Miles, North Troy A one-day road ride that stretches from the Canadian border to the Massachusetts state line down scenic Route 100. 100-200.org 23 | Long Trail Century Ride, Bridgewater Corners This ride benefits Vermont Adaptive Ski and Sports with 100-, 60-, 40-, or 20-mile rides and adaptive 5K routes, followed by BBQ, music, kids activities and more. Mountain bikers ride the trails at Killington. longtrailcenturyride.com 22-24 | NEMBAfest at Kingdom Trails, East Burke Kingdom Trails hosts the annual festival celebrating New England mountain biking with demos, camping, live music, competitions and exhibitions. nembafest.com
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June 29-July 2 | Mountain Friends and Freedom, Stratton Mountain Craft brews, barbecue, music by Josh Panda and The Marshall Tucker Band, and fireworks. stratton.com 30 | Vermont Gran Fondo, Middlebury Starting and finishing at Middlebury’s Woodchuck Cider, the Vermont Gran Fondo is a non-competitive, 114-mile road ride with challenging climbs across Appalachian Gap, Lincoln Gap, Middlebury Gap and Brandon Gap. The course gains 10,736 feet in elevation. There are also 67-, 62-, and 38-mile rides. vermontgranfondo.com
JULY 4 | Fourth of July Parade, Warren Warren’s Fourth of July is one not to be missed with floats, music and many more surprises. A classic Vermont affair and a must-see on your bucket list. warrenpajuly4th.com 6-8 | Stoweflake Hot Air Balloon Festival, Stowe More than 25 balloons take to the skies, with music, a kids area, food, wine and beer. Balloon rides are $275, and should be reserved in advance but tethered rides are $10. Stay at Stoweflake, and entry to the festival is free. gostowe.com 7 | Enough is Enough Recovery Run, Bolton Valley Participants run as many laps from the base lodge to the summit of the Wilderness chairlift as they can in this fixed-time event with 3-, 6-, and 12-hour solo options, 6and 12-hour relay options. vermontrunningcompany.com 8 | Mad Marathon, Mad Half and Relays, Waitsfield The Mad River Valley is the site of a weekend of races on dirt roads with tough climbs, and great views of the Green Mountains. madmarathon.com 13-14 | The Prouty, Hanover, N.H. Join in for two days of 100-mile “century” road bike rides supporting patient services and research at the Norris Cotton Cancer Center. Friday’s ride starts in Hanover and goes through quintessential Vermont. On Saturday, ride the Prouty Century or the new 64-mile metric century hybrid gravel route. theprouty.org 14 | Vermont’s Toughest Triathlon, Burke Mountain Resort Burke Mountain Resort hosts this challenging grassroots Ironman-distance race with over 13,000 feet of elevation gain between the bike and run. skiburke.com 14 | Boot Camp: Race to the Peak, Killington Run or hike to the summit of Killington Peak from the Snowshed Base Lodge for the hardest 5k you’ll ever run. killingtonbootcamp.com 15 | Eastern States Cup Sugarbush Showdown, Sugarbush Race with the pros in these enduro and downhill mountain bike races. sugarbush.com 21-22 | Vermont 100 Endurance Race, West Windsor An ultra-marathon starting at Silver Hill Meadow in West Windsor is one of the four 100-mile races that comprise the Grand Slam of ultra-running. A 100K race is also offered. vermont100endurancerun.blogspot.com 22 | Glacier Grinder, Killington The Endurance Society hosts a 40-mile ride, with up to 4,400 feet of elevation gain, that follows scenic gravel and unmaintained town roads. endurancesociety.org 27-29 | Vermont Mountain Bike Association Festival, West Windsor The Vermont Mountain Bike Association hosts its annual festival at Ascutney Basin, with everything from daylong epics to pump track sessions with the kiddies. vmba.org
SPONSORED CONTENT
the Summer F
Pump It Up:
Skiing and riding down Sugarbush can be a real rush, but mountain biking down that same terrain can get the adrenaline pumping even harder. Sugarbush offers 20 miles of lift-served downhill, cross-country and freestyle mountain biking terrain leading to the base of Lincoln Peak. If you don’t own a bike or have gear, rentals are available right in the base area. Lessons are available for all ages and abilities, from those looking to get out for the first time, to those looking to tune up their skills on technical terrain.
ile
mountain biking but still looking for some adventure, Sugarbush offers summer camps for ages 3-18 from lateJune to mid-August. The resort offers special weekly camps for children ages 6-12 with themes including adventure, climbing, farm-to-plate, golf, water and outdoor skills. One week you might be climbing Lincoln Peak and scoping the wildlife and the next you could be honing your archery and carving skills. Tennis camps are available as well through New England Tennis Holidays. Lodging packages are available for all camps.
Enjoy:
In addition, the Vermont Mountain Bike Association has connected nearly 60 miles of mapped trails to Sugarbush’s own terrain, including technical trails throughout the Valley and less technical terrain at Blueberry Lake. The Eastern States Cup returns to Sugarbush on July 15 with enduro and downhill races featuring a combined cash purse of $4,000.
Not every resort has its own par-71 Robert Trent Jones, Sr. designed golf course, especially one as challenging and beautiful as Sugarbush’s. Golfers will enjoy a course designed under Jones’ mantra of “every hole should be a hard par and an easy bogey” while taking in breathtaking views of the Monroe Skyline and Mad River Valley.
For those not interested in
Led by second-year Head Golf Pro Roger King, the club has
built a robust calendar of events including the Brew-Grass Golf Scramble, Boomer Scramble Championship, Junior Golf Camp Vermont Mid-Amateur Championship, Stroke Play Club Championship, and New England Craft Beer Open, and Sugarbush Ryder Cup. King also finished 3rd overall in the VTPGA last season. There will also be a number of recurring weekly events including League Night on Wednesdays, $35 Thursdays, Dinner on the Deck at Hogan’s on Fridays, and Wood Fired Pizza Night on Saturdays. Whether you golf or not, don’t miss out on Hogan’s Pub – the Mad River Valley’s premiere lunch spot for magnificent views and thirst-quenching brews. The pub offers sandwiches, soups, burgers and more all off one of the sunniest decks in town.
Don’t Miss:
June 9, 2018 – Sugarbush Brew-Grass Festival, Sugarbush Resort Enjoy craft beers from nearly thirty Vermont breweries, local food, and jamming bluegrass bands. June 12-13, 2018 – Boomer Scramble, Sugarbush Resort Open to participants ages 65 and over, enjoy a two-day golf tournament with prizes. Golfers can sign up as a full team or be grouped up with others. June 28-30, 2018 – Frendly Gathering The Friendly Gathering returns to Mt. Ellen with three days of live music and a lineup for all genres of music fans. Over 20 musical acts will play on unique stages throughout the festival grounds. Other activities include camping, art, dance workshops, local food, and more.. July 8, 2018 – Mad Marathon, Sugarbush Resort The 8th Annual Mad Marathon and Mad Half return for 2018. Enjoy one of the most beautiful and toughest courses around with rolling hills, dirt roads, breathtaking views of the Green Mountains, historic barns, quaint villages, covered bridges and more. July 15, 2018 – Eastern States Cup, Sugarbush Resort The Eastern States Cup East Coast Showdown stops through Sugarbush with endure and downhill mountain bike races and a combined cash purse of $4,000.
THE GREEN MOUNTAIN CALENDAR 28 | Red Line Scramble, Magic Mountain An “extremely difficult,” one-mile, point-to-point foot race up the Red Line ski trail. The course will be technical, with 1,500 feet of vertical climbing. magicmtn.com
25 | Sky Run, Mad River Glen The Endurance Society hosts a run to the summit of the mountain. The 5k has over 2,000 feet of vertical climbing and the 10K, 3,700 feet. madriverglen.com
29 | Mansfield Double-Up, Stowe This 11-mile endurance race climbs 5,500 feet and might have you encountering ladders, no-fall traverses and alpine tundra. nativeendurance.com
26 | Race To The Top Of Vermont, Stowe The Catamount Trail Association challenges runners and mountain bikers to race up Stowe’s historic Toll Road, gaining 2,564 vertical feet over 4.3 miles. catamounttrail.org
AUGUST
Aug. 31- Sept 3 | Green Mountain Stage Race, Mad River Valley and Burlington Four days of challenging road bike time trials, circuit races and criteriums. gmsr.info
1-5 | Fox Mountain Biking US Open, Killington Resort Pros and amateurs race in Downhill, Enduro, Best Whip, the US Kids Open classes and more. The Open features a Pro/Am style format and offers the most challenging and competitive racing in the nation. Don’t miss the classic Killington after-party with Long Trail Brewing Co. and a free concert. killington.com
SEPTEMBER
3-4 | Ragnar Trail Vermont, Ascutney Mountain Sports Trails of the Ascutney Basin host this three-day camping and running adventure. Teams of 8 (or 4 ultra-runners) will conquer a series of three trails that start and end at “Ragnar Village.” runragnar.com 10-11 | Mountain Race and Vertical Challenge, Smugglers’ Notch Trail runners can test themselves against the terrain of Madonna Mountain in the Vertical challenge and 25k Smuggs Mountain Race. Both summit the peaks. smuggs.com 10 - 12 | 2018 North American OCR Championships, Stratton The best obstacle racers in the country come to Stratton to compete in the first North American Obstacle Course Racing Championships. stratton.com 11 | Burke’s Bike ’N Brew, Burke Mountain Resort Listen to live music, ride Burke’s mountain bike park and sample local brews. skiburke.com 11 | VSECU Point-To-Point, Ascutney Tackle 100, 50 or 25 miles on the road, do a 10- or 20-mile trail ride or run a half marathon at Ascutney. Food trucks, live music and Harpoon beer after the race. harpoonpointtopoint.com 11-13 | The VT3, Craftsbury Common This three-day mountain bike stage races showcase some of the most fun riding that the NEK has to offer, from the rocky slopes of Hardwick to the sculpted enduro tracks of Victory. VT3 promises fun courses, time trials and fast racing. thevt3.com 16-19 | The Vermont Challenge, Stratton Mountain Resort Manchester and Stratton Resort serve as the home base for four days of longdistance rides. The challenge also includes gran, medio or piccolo fondo options for Saturday. New this year: a 56-mile route on Sunday that finishes atop Mount Equinox. vtchallenge.com
1-2 | 7th Annual Trail Running Festival, Jay Peak Resort From 5Ks to 53.1Ks, this day of trail running has a distance for everyone. jaypeakresort. com 8 | 13th Annual Kelly Brush Ride, Middlebury Register to ride your bike 20, 50 or 100 miles on paved roads through the scenic Champlain Valley. Fundraising done by participants in this event helps people with spinal cord injuries afford adaptive athletic equipment. kellybrushfoundation.org 2-9 | PDGA Professional Disc Golf World Championships, Smugglers Notch Resort Smuggs takes Vermont’s disc golf scene up a notch by drawing international pros for the world champs. Come to spectate or throw some discs yourself. smuggs.com 15-16 | Spartan Race, Killington Test your mettle with these legendary obstacle-laden running races at Killington. Run 30+, 12+, or 3+ miles through water, mud, and steep terrain. spartan.com 15-16 | International Downhill Federation World Cup Tour, Killington The world’s fastest, high-speed skateboarders race downhill. killington.com 15-16 | Enduro World Series North American Finals, Burke Amateur mountain bikers can race with the nation’s top pros for a chance to qualify for the Worlds. Followed by a night of beer, barbecue and music. skiburke.com 29 | New England Craft Beer Open, Sugarbush A golf tournament for beer lovers: sample local brews at each hole. sugarbush.com 30 | Vermont 50, Mount Ascutney This race benefits Vermont Adaptive Ski and Sports and offers a 50-mile mountain bike race, a 50-mile ultra run, a team relay, and a kids fun run. vermont50.com
CONCERTS & FESTIVALS
18 | 100 on 100 Relay, Stowe Teams of runners complete a 100-mile relay on Vermont Route 100 from the Trapp Family Lodge to Okemo Resort. 100on100.org
June 9 | Brew-Grass Festival, Sugarbush Enjoy wood-fired pizza, a yak barbecue, and beer from 30 Vermont breweries to live bluegrass from Red Barn Hayloft and the Mad Mountain Scramblers. sugarbush.com
18-22 | Stowe Mountain Lodge Tennis Classic, Stowe Pro tennis returns to Stowe this summer with the Player Party on Saturday night, and matches beginning Sunday and championship on Wednesday. stowetennis.com
June 15-17 | Quechee Hot Air Balloon Craft and Music Festival The skies over Quechee fill with colorful hot air balloons. The festival features up to 20 balloons with flights and tethered rides throughout the day. quecheeballoonfestival.com
25 | Under Armour Mountain Marathon, Killington Run between Killington’s and Pico’s peaks in a marathon, half marathon or relay. Or run vertical mile or distances down to a 5K. killington.com
June 21-24 | Stratton Wanderlust, Bondville The world’s leading yoga teachers, top music acts and DJs, speakers, and chefs gather for four days of yoga, talks, music and local food. stratton.com
58 Summer 2018 vtskiandride.com
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e
the Summer Fil
Beast 365
Killington Resort sends it into all four seasons with no breaks in between. Summer operations got underway while the spring skiing continued into late May. Now, sunny skies and multi-sport days feature the Killington Golf Course, Snowshed Adventure Center and Killington Bike Park. The new Beast 365 All-Seasons Pass offers the best value to experience everything at Killington all year long. It starts this summer with unlimited lift and trail access for mountain biking, plus golf course greens fees and access to the Adventure Center including the new WreckTangle. And, of course, unlimited winter access to the longest ski season in the East. The Beast 365 Pass must be purchased by June 14, 2018 ($99/month for adults). For more information visit killington. com/beast365pass.
Mountain Biking
Three high speed lifts to get you to the top with 29 trails for sending it back down on over 30 miles of rugged single track, rock gardens, switchbacks and
machine-built berms, hips and jumps. Plus, mountain bike lessons can help you graduate from the Skills Garden to the Black Magic Jump Line in record time.
Golf
Get elevated 2,000-feet above sea level at the par 72 Championship Killington Golf Course and take on mountain terrain and signature views while surfing the earth on a GolfBoard.
Hiking
With 15 miles of hiking trails, you will never take the same route up or down The Beast. The rewards after summiting Vermont’s second tallest peak are unencumbered 365-degree views and access to the Peak Lodge, offering fresh food and cool drinks to hikers and mountain bikers all summer.
Dining
There’s something unique about every spot on the mountain and our goal at Killington is to make dining as much of an experience as coming here to ski or mountain bike. From seasonal farm-to-table fare at Preston’s restaurant and
bar at Killington Grand Hotel to made-from-scratch daily specials at the Peak Lodge, The Beast caters to discerning tastes. Vermont’s highest elevation restaurant and bar, the Killington Peak Lodge, is accessible from mountain trails and the K-1 Express Gondola. Hikers, mountain bikers and sightseers converge here to witness the Green Mountain state from up high, have a beverage and enjoy a summer night overlooking three states.
Music & Beer
The Roaring Brook Umbrella Bar becomes the backdrop for free outdoor music from top national and regional acts every Saturday afternoon July 14-September 1 at the Cooler in the Mountain Concert Series. Grab a lawn chair, a beach blanket, the whole family and head to the K-1 Base Area for this weekly family-friendly event. Concerts are held from 3:30-6:00 p.m. and guests are encouraged to come early to enjoy the festive atmosphere and all the summer activities Killington Resort has to offer.
Don’t Miss: June 15-17 | Vermont Bike & Brew MTBVT and Killington present a familyfriendly weekend of downhill mountain biking, organized challenges for all ability levels, camping, live entertainment and enough craft beer to satisfy even the most discerning palate. July 20-22 | Killington Wine Festival Over the past 17 years, the Killington Wine Festival has grown immensely and now features more than 500 wines from a collection of over 40 vineyards around the world. Aug. 1-5 | Fox US Open of Mountain Biking This event will attract some of the best mountain bike athletes from all over the country competing in the US Open Downhill, US Open Enduro, Best Whip, Kids Open with Grom Bomb and Adaptive DH Races. Vendors, live music and group laps will create a party like atmosphere for all. Aug. 25 | Under Armour Mountain Running Series This new North American trail running series provides unmatched racing experiences in beautiful mountain environments featuring 5K, 10K, Vertical Challenge, 50K, Marathon Relay, Half Marathon and more. Sept. 15-16 | Spartan Race Speed meets endurance at the birthplace of Spartan in a series of obstacle races ranging from 3 miles to 30 miles of mountain climbing, lake swimming, barbed wire crawling and more. Visit killington.com/events for information and a full list of events.
THE GREEN MOUNTAIN CALENDAR June 24 | VT Rocks Music Festival and Barbecue, Bolton Valley Resort The lineup for this new music festival and barbecue includes eight bands, including Cookie’s Hot Club, Mountain Weekend and The Mallet Brothers Band. Proceeds benefit Bolton local Darlene Autery’s fight against cancer. $40. boltonvalley.com June 28-30 | Frendly Gathering, Sugarbush Mt. Ellen is the site of this year’s Gathering, a festival organized by pro snowboarders Jack Mitrani, Danny Davis, Kevin Pearce and “frends.” Bands include Twiddle, Greensky Bluegrass, Devil Makes Three, Kat Wright, Trevor Hall and more. frendlygathering.com July 1-8 | Vermont Symphony Orchestra Summer Tour Vermont’s most celebrated orchestra travels the state for lawn concerts and fireworks. Catch them at Suicide Six on 7/1, Manchester on 7/2, Grafton on 7/3, Shelburne on 7/4, Chittenden on 7/5, Randolph on 7/7 and Stowe’s Trapp Family Lodge on 7/8. vso.org July 6-8 | Stoweflake Hot Air Balloon Festival, Stowe Enjoy wine, local food, kids games and activities and a magnificent scene as 25 hot air balloons launch in unison against the backdrop of the Green Mountains. stoweflake.com July 7 | Rock The Roots, Mount Snow, This one-day festival of cider and music will feature big names such as Sublime with Rome, Dirty Heads, Lupe Fiasco, Pepper, and Matisyahu. mountsnow.com July 12-14 | All Come Home Music Festival, Okemo The Jackson Gore courtyard hosts local bands during the day. At night, a main stage host tribute bands honoring Neil Diamond, Talking Heads, David Bowie, Queen and more. Plus: food trucks and drinks galore. okemo.com July 22 | Michael Franti and Spearhead, Jay Peak Resort Michael Franti hits the Stateside Amphitheater as part of his Stay Human tour. jaypeakresort.com July 28 | Jeezum Crow Festival, Jay Peak Resort Government Mule headlines the fifth year of Jay Peak’s Jeezum Crow Festival. jaypeakresort.com Aug. 4 | Dark Star Orchestra, Jay Peak Resort Deadheads, unite. The Stateside Amphitheater hosts this critically acclaimed Grateful Dead tribute band. jaypeakresort.com Aug. 10-11 | Garden of Eden with Strangefolk, Jay Peak Resort Jay’s Garden of Eden reunites the original band members of Strangefolk and other acts. jaypeakresort.com Aug. 18 | Woodchuck’s 5th Annual Ciderstock, Middlebury What Woodchuck did to hard cider, it has also done to outdoor music fests. In its 5th year Ciderstock, held in a field outdoors behind the tasting room, has become one of the biggest outdoor music fests in the state with more than 10,000 people coming. This year’s lineup includes 311, Moon Taxi, Jukebox, The Ghost and the Seth Yacavone band. woodchuck.com/ciderstock/
FOOD & WINE FESTS June 9 | Sugarbush Brew-Grass Festival Lincoln Peak Village hosts live folk music and over 20 Vermont breweries, with a 9-hole tournament at the Sugarbush Golf Course. sugarbush.com June 29 | B3 Festival Block Party, Stowe The Alchemist hosts a town-wide celebration of bikes, beer, and live music. Featuring local food and beer, vendors, kids activities, and a critical mass ride. vmba.org July 20-21 | Vermont Brewers Festival, Burlington Annual beer festival at Waterfront Park with 50 breweries on tap. vtbrewfest.com July 20-22 | Killington Wine Festival This annual wine tasting now features hundreds of wines from more than 40 vineyards around the world. Held at the Killington Peak Lodge, accessed by gondola. killington. com July 22 | Blueberry Fest at Okemo Celebrate all things blueberry with a pancake brunch in the Jackson Gore courtyard with music, games, a pie eating contest and more. okemo.com Aug. 3-5 | Hops in the Hills, Okemo Okemo hosts a three-day beer and cider festival with over 50 regional craft beers and ciders. okemo.com Aug. 3-4 | Stowe Brewers Festival Beer lovers flock to this two-day festival to sample more than 120 beers, ciders and meads from 40 local producers. Live music will be provided by The Pilgrims, My Mother’s Moustache, and Peace in the Valley. stowebrewersfestival.com Aug. 4-11 | Mad River Taste Week This new event celebrates the makers and growers of the Mad River Valley with tours, tastings, dinners and other special events. madrivertaste.com Aug. 5 | Vermont Fresh Network Annual Forum Dinner, Shelburne Sample fresh, local produce in signature dishes prepared by Vermont’s top chefs at the lakeside Coach Barn at Shelburne Farms. Warning: this event sells out so reserve ahead: vermontfreshnet.org Aug. 11 | The Taste of Woodstock Woodstock’s annual street festival features over 50 vendors on Elm Street and showcases local food, crafts and art as well as live music, beer and wine. woodstockinn.com Aug. 13-19 | Open Farm Week with the Vermont Fresh Network, statewide Visit a few of the more than 44 farms that open their doors to visitors and offer on-site meals, tastings and tours of their operations, and live music. diginvt.org Sept. 1-2 | Mount Snow Brewer’s Festival Labor Day weekend, 50 breweries will pour fresh beers and ciders alongside a giant BBQ, vendors and live music following the Hops for Hope 5K, a fun run benefiting the American Cancer Society. mountsnow.com
Aug. 18 | Stowe Tango Music Festival, Stowe Mountain Resort The highlight of this festival, founded by Grammy award winner Hector Del Curto and cellist Jisoo Ok, is the festival concert, the Stowe Tango Music Festival Orchestra. Don’t miss the show at the Spruce Peak stage at 8 p.m. stowemountainresort.com
Sept. 22 | Wine & Harvest Festival, Mount Snow Celebrate fall foliage with Vermont vintners, small specialty food producers, chefs, painters, publishers, cheese makers, potters, jewelers, photographers and farmers. mountsnow.com
Sept. 15-16 | Grand Point North Festival, Burlington Vermont rocker Grace Potter presents a full lineup of live music on the Burlington waterfront. grandpointnorth.com
Sept. 22-23 | SIPtemberfest, Mad River Glen Vermont’s “Best Little Beer Fest” offers an intimate craft beer tasting experience with short lines, great local beer, good people, and plenty of opportunities to chat with local brewers. siptemberfest.com
60 Summer 2018 vtskiandride.com
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the Summer F
ile
A Soulful Connection Vermont poet-laureate Robert Frost wrote about taking the road “less traveled by.” And with Vermont having a great variety of ski resorts, it’s worth diverging to a road with a little more “undergrowth.” That’s where you’ll discover Magic Mountain. Nestled among the major corporate ski resorts of southern Vermont, Magic harkens back to the golden-era of skiing in New England. A brand new 18-hole disc golf course will be ready for guests this summer with Thursday League Nights offering regular competition and après golf fun and dining at the Magic’s Black Line Tavern. Magic will also host live Saturday night bands as part of the Black Line Summer Music Series,
and they’ll treat movie buffs to Friday Night outdoor “Movies on the Mountain” throughout the summer. For those special occasions, they offer beautiful mountain wedding celebrations, which only add to the sense of community to be found at the mountain during the summer and fall. Magic’s ownership group, SKI MAGIC LLC, has undertaken several major capital projects to make the “magic” here even better. From two new lifts this summer—a double chair to the mid-mountain accessing easier terrain and the new fixed-grip
Black Line Summit Quad—to the doubling of snowmaking capacity with an expanded snowmaking pond, new piping, and new low-energy HKD guns, Magic is creating a better future for a classic Vermont throwback area. The Wall Street Journal recently picked Magic as one of five bestkept-secret ski resorts. The road here diverges at the intersection of Routes 100 and 11. Which road will you take? magicmtn.com
Don’t Miss:
June 28, 2018 – Oct. 4, 2018 Disc Golf Thursday League Nights July 7, 2018 – Independence Day Fireworks and Band July 28, 2018 – The Red Line Scramble with after race party at the Black Line Tavern August 18, 2018 – Magic’s Golf/Disc Golf Biathlon Charity Tournament presented by Fiddlehead Brewing and benefiting UVM Children’s Hospital. Fall Foliage Mid Mountain Lift Rides to Sunshine Corner every Saturday from midSeptember to Columbus Day weekend.
DRINK VT
VERMONT BEER, WINE, CIDER + SPIRITS
The Green Mountain State is home to some of the best breweries, wineries, cideries and distilleries in the world. And most invite you to stop by their pubs, restaurants and production houses for a tour and to sample their goods. For more information, links and maps to each location check out www.vtskiandride.com.
5520 Rt. 4, Bridgewater Corners, VT 802-672-5011 www.longtrail.com Inspired by the 273-mile hiking trail that traverses the Green Mountains, Long Trail Brewing has been a caretaker of Vermont craft since 1989. From small-batch recipes to large-scale staples like our Long Trail Ale and Limbo IPA, our brewers are committed to crafting a trail-worthy family of beers.
160 Flynn Ave, Burlington, VT 802-651-4114 www.switchbackvt.com
Find Switchback Ale—the number one selling draught beer in Vermont—at New England ski & ride areas! We are proud to be the first 100% employee-owned brewery in New England, brewing unfiltered and naturally carbonated beers in the South End of Burlington, Vermont since 2002. Visit our brewery and Tap Room for pints, flights, and samples. Tours available on Saturdays by reservation.
52 Seymour Street Middlebury, VT 802-897-7700 www.whistlepigwhiskey.com
WhistlePig showcases the tremendous flavor potential of rye while maintaining a smooth and balanced profile, identifying it with the most acclaimed whiskeys in the world.
1859 Mountain Rd, Stowe, VT 802-253-4765 www.idletymebrewing.com
Our beer line-up represents a traditional take on classic European brewing with a healthy dose of the Vermont hop culture. Whether your preference is a brown or pale ale, Helles Lager or our famous Idletyme Double IPA, we have a beer you’ll love! And it’s brewed right here at our pub and restaurant.
7755 VT Route 9E, West Marlboro, VT 28 Church Street, Burlington, VT (802)-464-2003 www.vermontdistillers.com
Vermont Distillers produces the Metcalfe’s line of Liqueurs as well as other fine spirits. Tastings are offered daily along with brand merchandise and bottles to go. Conveniently located between I-91 and Mount Snow resort with an additional tasting room located in Burlington, VT.
610 Route 7, Middlebury, VT 802-989-7414 www.dropinbrewing.com
Drop-In Brewing is Middlebury’s small, independent, locally owned brewery, and is home to The American Brewers Guild Brewing School. Our Tap Room is open 7 days a week serving sample flights, pints, and selling cans and growlers to go. You can find our beer on draft in restaurants and bars across Vermont, and our cans in retailers that carry craft beers. For more information, check out www.dropinbrewing.com, or call us at (802) 989-7414.
1321 Exchange St, Middlebury, VT 802-385-3656 www.woodchuck.com
As America’s original hard cider, we have always done things our own way, forging a tradition of quality and craftsmanship with every cider batch we craft. At Woodchuck, our Cider Makers meticulously oversee the details of every cider before any bottle or keg leaves our Cidery. It’s this attention and passion for cider that ensures we always deliver a premium hard cider that is true to our roots. Enjoy the brand that started the American cider revolution. sponsored content
von Trapp Brewing is dedicated to brewing the highest quality Austrianinspired lagers with a Vermont twist. Experience “a little of Austria, a lot of Vermont,” in every glass. Plus come visit our new bierhall at the brewery!
6308 Shelburne Rd, Shelburne, VT 802-985-8222 www.shelburnevineyard.com
Join us to taste and tour and share our adventure growing grapes and making award-winning wine in northern Vermont. Then, pick your favorite to sip on the patio overlooking our vineyard. Check our concert and event schedule online or visit Shelburne Vineyard on Facebook or plan your own special event here! Open 7 days a week, all year.
150 Main Street, Newport, VT Near Jay Peak 802-334-1808 www.edenicecider.com
Founded in 2007 on an abandoned farm in the Northeast Kingdom, Eden produces high quality ice ciders, aperitif ciders and naturally sparkling hard ciders from heirloom and true cider variety apples grown at our own and 5 other local orchards. Slow Food Snail of Approval, Good Food Award Gold Seal, Great Lakes International Cider Competition Best in Show 2015. sponsored content
8814 Route 30, Rawsonville, VT Junction VT Rt 30N and VT Rt 100N 802-297-9333 www.CraftDraughts.com An intimate shop with over 300 craft beers plus ciders, meads and two rotating Vermont taps for growler fills. A muststop for craft beer lovers traveling through southern Vermont.
5 Bartlett Bay Rd South Burlington, VT 802-658-BREW MagicHat.Net
Where ancient alchemy meets modern-day science to create the best tasting beer on the planet. Come watch our spores dance and play! Visit the Artifactory for FREE samples, FREE tours and the most unusual shopping experience!
632 Laporte Road, Route 100 Morrisville, VT 802-888-9400 www.rockartbrewery.com
Enjoy samples of our beers during your visit and have a growler filled to take home to enjoy later. We have the best selection of our beers on tap. You’ll also find great Rock Art swag, Vermont foods and wonderful items from local artisans.
Caledonia Spirits is a craft distillery in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont. Raw honey distinguishes our Barr Hill vodka, Barr Hill gin, and Tom Cat barrel aged gin by imparting a pure and soft botanical essence into each bottle. All of our spirits reflect our deep connection to the land and Vermont’s agricultural heritage.
Open daily 12-5 for free tours and tastings at the distillery.
Pine Street Brewery Flatbread Brewpub 716 Pine Street 115 St. Paul Street 802-497-0054 802-861-2999 www.zerogravitybeer.com Visit either of our two locations for two distinct ZG experiences: The Pine Street Brewery houses a 30-barrel brew house, full canning line, tasting room, retail shop and a sundrenched beer garden in Burlington’s South End Arts District, and our original location in downtown Burlington at American Flatbread features the full line-up of ZG flagship and Specialty brews alongside some of the finest wood-fired pizza you can find. Cheers!
3597 VT-74, Shoreham, VT 802-897-2777 www.champlainorchards.com
Open daily 9-5. July-Nov. Please call ahead. We offer guided tastings of our locallymade hard cider including our Original Hard Cider, Mac & Maple, Limited Edition Ginger Spice as well as our Pruner’s Pride and Honeycrisp Ice Cider. All our ciders are made onsite with our ecologically grown apples. 100% of our electricity is generated from our solar orchards. 2015 Winner of Vermont Cider Classic.
VERMONT BEER, WINE, CIDER + SPIRITS
von Trapp Brewing 1333 Luce Hill Rd. Stowe, VT 802-253-0900 www.vontrappbrewing.com
46 Log Yard Drive, Hardwick, VT 802-472-8000 www.caledoniaspirits.com
The Chairlift Q+A
DR. DANGER’S LATEST SPORT He’s been the chief medical correspondent for NBC, written best-sellers on health and fitness and hosted a reality TV series “Dr. Danger.” Here’s how Stowe’s Dr. Bob Arnot stays in shape.
How does a Vermonter end up racing SUPs in Hawaii?
I started paddling about six years ago. At first, I could barely stand on the board without falling off but now I’m hooked. With so many lakes, Vermont is a great place to learn. I can be on the Waterbury Reservoir at dusk and it’s calm and beautiful or head into Burlington and do a downwinder with the gang at the Burlington Surf Club. People don’t realize how big the lake is but when you’re doing a 10 or 15-mile downwinder, waves really stack up. What’s the Burlington Surf Club?
It’s a club on the shores of Lake Champlain that just opened this spring but the people behind it, Russ and Roxanne Scully—they own the restaurants The Spot d Spot on the Dock—have been into windsurfing, kiteboarding and sailing for years. Russ invited me to paddleboard with him and then I got him to go do the Molokai to Oahu Race. Then, he started sponsoring big wave surfer Chuck Patterson—so the three of us have gotten to do some epic downwinders.
64 Summer 2018 vtskiandride.com
How did you get to be so good?
I practice pretty much every day I can. In Burlington,we have this guy, Tommy Buday, a three-time Olympic canoe paddler, who comes down to coach once a week and work on technique. I also stay in shape all winter. I did 14 cross-country ski races this year and I’ll do 32 paddleboard races, including my fifth Molokai to Oahu or M20, on July 29. What’s it like to paddle Hawaii’s big ocean swells?
The M20 is one of the hardest things I’ve ever done, harder even than being an embedded journalist in Iraq in 2003 when Baghdad was bombed. One year I fell and broke a tooth and then a shark started following me. You’re just exhausted but you can’t really let up for a minute because you have to constantly watch the waves. I’ve skied and Nordic skied, done Ironman triathlons and surfed and this is the best workout you can ask for. Paddling really works your core, your legs and your arms. Any paddling tips for the rest of us?
When I first started out, I thought this was all about strength and my arms and pecks were sore as heck. In truth, there is no better core workout. When you paddle right, everything is engaged: your abs, your pecks, your hamstrings. To set up the proper stance, stand with your knees shoulder-width apart and bent. Start by making an “A-frame” by leaning forward, using your body to form the left side of the A and then let the paddle form the right side. That’s where you want the paddle to enter the water. Next, extend your lower arm out as far as you can and grasp the paddle, then “stack” your upper arm on top of that. Your body should be facing the side of the board, one arm above the other. How far up or down you hold your lower hand on the paddle is like how hard a gear you use on a bike — higher up will mean a shorter, easier stroke; lower down gives you more power. —L.L.
Photo by Lisa Lynn
O
n May 9, long after Stowe’s lifts stopped turning, Dr. Bob Arnot, now 70, faced a dilemma: whether to skin up Mt. Mansfield, using his ultralight ski mountaineering gear, or practice his stand-up paddleboarding. The former chief medical correspondent for NBC and CBS, host of a reality TV show called “Dr. Danger” and author of The NewYork Times best-sellers The Aztec Diet and Turning Back the Clock, did both. Dr. Arnot lives in Stowe with his fiancée Amy and son Alysdair. On any given day, he may fly his own plane out of Stowe’s airport to compete in an SUP race, promote his new coffee on the Dr.Oz show in NewYork, or attend a party in Nantucket. But you can often find him on the Waterbury Reservoir or on Lake Champlain (below), training for the grueling, 20-mile Molokai to Oahu crossing in the World Paddleboard Championship
eat, drink, listen and shred. epic food, 100 beers, 1,000 records and access to miles of world class trails* right outside our door. * thank you stowe trails partnership, stowe land trust, and town of stowe!
dinner every night and lunch friday - monday 802 760 6066 docponds.com @ docponds
sugarbush.com
800.53.SUGAR
#liveSUGARBUSH
UPCOMING EVENTS BREW-GRASS FESTIVAL Sat, Jun 9
MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES OPENING DAY Sat, Jun 23
FRENDLY GATHERING at MT. ELLEN
Thu, Jun 28 – Sat, Jun 30
JULY 4TH PARADE, FIREWORKS & MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES Wed, Jul 4
SUGARBUSH HIGHLAND FESTIVAL Sun, Jul 8
EASTERN STATES CUP ENDURO & DOWNHILL MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE Sat, Jul 14 – Sun, Jul 15
COMMUNITY WEEKEND & FAMILY OKTOBERFEST Sat , Oct 6 – Sun, Oct 7
WEEKLY DINING SPECIALS JUL 9 – AUG 24, 2018 Monday: 50% off Dinner Rumble’s Kitchen Tuesday: Cornhole, Beer & Pizza Rumble’s Kitchen Thursday: Homemade Pasta Night Rumble’s Kitchen Friday: Dinner on the Deck Hogan’s Pub Saturday: Birdies & Slices Hogan’s Pub
so close, yet so far from ordinary
Sugarbush’s lift-served mountain biking with après beers in the Lincoln Peak Courtyard isn’t the only summer hot spot at Sugarbush. From hitting the links at Sugarbush Resort Golf Club to disc golf and kids summer camps, the Mad River Valley boasts tons of summer fun. Join us for stay and play packages, beer festivals, farm-to-table meals and more. For more information on restaurants, activities and events call 800.53.SUGAR or visit sugarbush.com.