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FASHION IS
SEASONAL But the tears of an acid attack survivor last a lifetime
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Patricia Lefranc, 59, is the survivor of an acid attack. Her tears tell their own story.
This is a tear cried by Patricia, photographed 1,000 times, magnified and printed on medium-weight silk fabric. Easy access to acid creates too many survivors like Patricia. In 2022, Acid Survivors Trust International (ASTi) and the Thomson Reuters Foundation released a comparative report on the use of acid in industrial supply chains. With the findings of this report, we want industries to be part of the change – to take action, and do more to stop attacks happening. 5
FOREWORD I will always remember my visits to Bangladesh. It is hard to forget. To see the harm caused by an acid attack is a distressing experience. As the Patron of Acid Survivors Trust International (ASTi), I visited Bangladesh and met survivors of acid attacks, mainly women and children. It stays in the mind. An acid attack can be described as an act of torture as the intention is rarely to kill. The intention is to cause severe physical and mental suffering, to permanently disfigure and maim the intended victim. Very often, young women are victims of such attacks, making acid attacks a form of gender-based violence.
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It is not unusual for a survivor to receive countless surgical procedures, spread over many years. ASTi and its partners have helped to reduce the number of attacks in multiple countries including Pakistan, Bangladesh, Cambodia, and the UK. Sadly, thousands of attacks still occur globally. Attacks have been recorded in many countries across the world including China, Vietnam, India, Cambodia, Colombia, Uganda and Mexico, to name a few. Evidence suggests a correlation between legitimate business uses of acid and the incidence of acid attacks. Research has shown that acid attacks often occur in districts and provinces where there is a large textile production base, such as the “cotton belt” in southern Punjab in Pakistan. Acid attacks were first recorded in the UK as early as the eighteenth century during the birth of the industrial revolution when corrosives, such as sulphuric acid, were used as part of the industrial process. Attacks became commonplace in the industrialised regions of the UK. Two hundred years later, attacks continue, but now rolled out to a global level. How can we prevent acid attacks recurring ad infinitum? Businesses that use corrosive substances in their supply chain have a vital role in preventing attacks. Multiple interventions are required, including prevention of easy access to dangerous corrosives. I encourage companies to partner with ASTi and share its mission to end acid violence.
We all have it in ourselves to help prevent this enormously harmful act of violence.
Her Royal Highness Princess Anne
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PATRICIA’S STORY
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INFLUENCE
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COLLECTION
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NEXT SEASON
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1 PATRICIA’S STORY
Teardrop printed on 82 gsm silk, dyed black with a satin finish.
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PATRICIA, 59 “Some days, I just cry” DIMENSIONS
People stare at me and mock me for my appearance
FABRIC
When I look in the mirror, every fibre of my body reminds me of what happened
CARE
The doctors had me in an artificial coma for months
FIBRES
WEIGHT
SOURCE
I could see my left arm melting, with bubbles forming on the surface. I ripped away my clothes and could see the bones of my arms
I really thought my life was over and there was no point living anymore
The majority of perpetrators will be released from prison after a few years. I will be trapped in my burnt skin for the rest of my life
NOTES
Thankfully my outlook has changed I am now fighting for the rights of acid attack survivors
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“I was very angry that the doctors didn’t let me die. Now it’s different, I know the reason I’m still alive.” Patricia Lefranc
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“From small teardrops, great oceans can flow” Patricia Lefranc
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2 INFLUENCE
Sulphuric acid was the bedrock of the UK’s industrial revolution 1760 In 1760, famed engineer James Watt discovered a new way to bleach fabric and textiles using sulphuric acid. This acid was then manufactured in vast quantities to treat cotton, as well as many metals.
1833
The first recorded European criminal conviction for an acid attack was in 1833, after a 21-year-old man attacked a fellow worker while he slept.
1834
“The crime of throwing vitriol has, we grieve to say, become so common in this part of the country, as to become almost a stain on the national character.” Editorial from Reformers’ Gazette, Scotland.
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2023 Along with other corrosives in industrial supply chains, sulphuric acid is currently used in thousands of attacks every year.
1938
Acid attacks were common enough for Graham Greene to have his sinister protagonist, Pinkie, carry a small bottle of acid in his novel, Brighton Rock.
1913
Between 1837 and 1913, almost twice as many women as men stood trial at the Old Bailey for committing acid attacks, with large numbers of female workers in textile industries becoming demonised as a result.
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1700
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1727
1760
1833
1913
1938
2023
A GLOBAL EPIDEMIC Acid attacks occur throughout the world, including in the United States, UK, Italy, Colombia, Mexico, Guyana, Jamaica, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal, Uganda and Nigeria, to name just a small number of countries. The acids used by perpetrators to commit attacks include hydrochloric, sulphuric and nitric acid – the same substances used in industrial applications by many businesses. Attacks with corrosive liquids occur at higher rates in locations where these substances are easily accessible, and where factories or sites use acid in their manufacturing processes. A report on acid violence by the Avon Global Center for Women and Justice, Cornell Law School and the Virtue Foundation states: “Evidence suggests a correlation between legitimate business uses of acid and the incidence of acid attacks. In Bangladesh, for example, the incidence of acid violence is highest in districts where the acid-using garment and jewellery industries are prevalent.” ASTi estimates that the number of global attacks exceed 10,000 each year. In the UK alone, there were over 900 attacks reported in one year. The total number of global attacks is unknown as governments in many countries do not maintain official records of acid attacks.
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United Kingdom
WOOL
Britain is one of the largest wool producers in the world, yielding nearly 70,000 tonnes per year, with toxic chemicals and bleaching agents routinely used in the cleaning and whitening process. Per capita, the UK has one of the highest rates of recorded acid attacks. Of the 2,078 acid attack crimes recorded during the years 2011–2016, only 414 resulted in charges being brought.
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Italy
LEATHER In 2021, Italy exported about 3.56 billion US dollars worth of leather to the rest of the world. Italy has seen an increase in acid attacks in recent years. There were 27 registered assaults in 2016, compared with 8 in 2013. Unlike in the UK, the majority of victims are women and most attacks are committed by ex-partners.
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India
COTTON Cotton production in India is projected to reach 7.2 million tonnes (~43 million bales of 170 kg each) by 2030. There were 228 acid attacks reported in the country in 2018, but it is very likely that a large number of attacks were not reported and the actual number of attacks was far higher. Research indicates that the majority of victims are women and girls.
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China
SILK China is the largest silk producer in the world, producing 403,021 tonnes per year. China alone produces more than 60% of the world’s silk. India comes second, producing 161,127 tonnes each year. In 2008, more than 100 people were injured in acid attacks in Hong Kong.
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Bangladesh
HESSIAN Annually, production of jute (hessian) in Bangladesh regularly reaches 1.40 million tonnes. There are also approximately 233 private jute mills currently operating in Bangladesh. Attacks in Bangladesh peaked at around 400 in 2002. Almost 70% of victims are women and girls. A study of 90 victims in Bangladesh found that 80% of the attacks occurred in the victims’ homes. Perpetrators are almost always men.
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Pakistan
DENIM Export of cotton denim fabrics from Pakistan increased from 408 million square metres, worth 66 billion rupees, in 2019–20 to 181 million square metres, worth 73 billion rupees, in 2020–21. Research conducted by the Acid Survivors Foundation Pakistan (a not-for-profit) showed a strong correlation between the agricultural practice of treating cotton seeds with acid and the prevalence of acid attacks. The highest number of attacks were in the southern Punjab region, also known as the “cotton belt”.
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3 COLLECTION
ASTi Supply Chain Report, 2022
CONDUCT RISK IMPACT ASSESSMENT OF THE ACID VALUE CHAIN
• Examine the potential and actual risk of harm • Map information on acids being obtained and used for acid attacks to own operations and activities of business partners • Gather information on industry-specific risks • Identify high-risk areas • Update risk mapping exercises
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ASTi Supply Chain Report, 2022
TAKE STEPS TO MITIGATE RISKS IN OWN OPERATIONS •A dequate training and information on how to safely handle specific acids • I mplement a monitoring, auditing and reporting system for acids • I mplement a grievance system whereby staff who have safety or security concerns can report these to management without fear of retribution •P ackage acids in secure, tamper-proof packaging. Use internationally recognised classification, labelling and packaging •A pply additional specific warnings and labels. Include information such as the maximum penalties that perpetrators of acid crimes may be subject to in the relevant jurisdiction •R eport any thefts or significant disappearances to relevant authorities
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ASTi Supply Chain Report, 2022
CONDUCT DUE DILIGENCE ON BUSINESS PARTNERS • Screen new business partners to understand how they are involved in the manufacturing, sale, distribution or use of acid, and how they handle, store, sell and/or dispose of acid • Develop clear standards for business partners • Monitor business partners’ compliance with standards • Train business partners on expected corporate standards
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ASTi Supply Chain Report, 2022
RESPOND TO REPORTED RISKS AND INCIDENTS • Implement grievance mechanisms • Investigate and respond to reports of non-compliance in the acid value chain raised through formal grievance mechanisms • Take steps to remediate any acid attack risks that come to light and consider supporting remediation efforts of business partners • Remediate any negative impact changes have on own operations
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ASTi Supply Chain Report, 2022
IMPLEMENT ENHANCED REPORTING AND DISCLOSURE
• Establish internal processes to identify potential or actual acid violence risks in supply chains. Treat acid violence as a serious human rights risk that must be reported • Report on local and global risk-based supply chain due diligence findings with respect to the handling, storage, sale and disposal of acid • Implement formal periodic and ad hoc reporting procedures. Formalise document and record-keeping systems and internal quality controls • Format reports in a standardised and machine-readable manner that facilitates clear, simple comparison with reports made by other corporations •V erify reports and reporting procedures with third-party auditors to increase accuracy, robustness and transparency
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4 NEXT SEASON
HOW WILL YOU TAILOR YOUR LEGACY IN THE FASHION AND TEXTILE INDUSTRY? Poor storage and handling can result in acid falling into the wrong hands. Do you know what is happening in your supply chain? Stop easy access to acid: take action today by scanning the QR code below or by signing and sending the postcard to ASTi HQ
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Without the help of many people we would never be able to tell this story. Firstly, we’d like to acknowledge survivors Patricia Lefranc and Samir Hussain who gave their time (and their teardrops) to this book. We’d also like to thank Maurice Mikkers who created the original teardrop artwork, via his unique photographic process. Last but not least, we’d like to thank Rankin who brought to life Patricia’s story through his powerful photography.
Written and produced by Acid Survivors Trust International (2023) a UK registered charity no.1154961
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RANKIN’S WORD It would be hypocritical for me to criticise the fashion industry, as it’s my bread and butter. But when ASTi approached me to photograph Patricia Lefranc for the Tear Couture lookbook, I wanted to help and give them my time to capture Patricia in all her vulnerability and vivaciousness for their great cause. The way we worked together was very collaborative, that is the way I always work. My camera is like a window that I invite my talent to look through – to their audience on the other side. Patricia was great, she was the one with the most courage on set. Giving her the choice of which images she liked was key for the lookbook. I encourage that form of collaboration: the choice had to come from her, and if she didn’t like it, it was out. Patricia is the real activist here, and I’m just a conduit. Patricia did all the work on the shoot, and I’m just here as a platform to help her and ASTi along...
If it makes a difference in some way, then I’m all for that.
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