National Culinary Review (January/February 2024)

ACF'S 2024 TRENDS JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

FEATURE STORY

12

2024 Trends

26

Celebrating 95 Years of ACF History

Introducing ACF’s first-ever trends report, condensed here as a summary of what to expect in 2024, along with a look at the first monthly trend in our series — comfort food.

A snapshot of 95 years of ACF history in timeline form. Plus, an article by ACF Chef Paul Sorgule, AAC®, on the lasting impact of Chef Auguste Escoffier.

DEPARTMENTS

20

Main Course

22

Management

24

Classical vs. Modern

32

Health

38

Pastry

44

Segment Spotlight

An industry trends expert identifies three comfort food dishes from around the globe gaining traction on U.S. menus.

A day in the life of an ACF chef working in the evolving business & industry sector.

ACF Chef Frank Constantino, Ed.D., CEC®, CCA®, CCE®, CEPC®, AAC, collaborates with a student on a classical presentation and remake of Escoffier’s Recipe #1929.

Two ACF chefs share how they teach kids about healthy cooking and nutrition.

ACF Pastry Chef Susan Notter, CEPC, AAC, talks about her chocolate shop and offers a few techniques.

Catering chefs discuss their daily challenges and wins working in this segment.

IN EACH ISSUE 3

In This Issue

34 Chef-to-Chef

4

President’s Message

36 ACF Chef Profile

6

On the Line

40 Chapter Close-Up

8

News Bites

46 The Quiz

2

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

ACF MEMBER CONTRIBUTORS Classical vs. Modern Frank Constantino, Ed.D., CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC, and Isabella Torres

Frank Constantino, Ed.D., CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC, and Isabella Torres

Celebrating 95 Years of ACF History Paul Sorgule, AAC

Paul Sorgule, AAC

Chef-to-Chef Thomas Recinella, CEC, AAC

Pastry Robert Wemischner

Robert Wemischner

Thomas Recinella, CEC, AAC

RECOGNIZING THE CURRENT AND ACTIVE ACF CHEF MEMBERS WHO ARE FEATURED AND QUOTED THROUGHOUT THE PAGES OF THIS ISSUE Management

Chef Profile

Doug Patten Sr., CEC, CCA, AAC

Tony Le, CEC

Health Doug Patten Sr., CEC, CCA, AAC

Kareen “Coco” Linton Michael Garahan, CEC

Tony Le, CEC

Pastry Susan E. Notter, CEPC, AAC

Chapter Close-Up Kareen “Coco” Linton

Phoebe Beiter, CCC® Mark Wright, CEC, AAC, HOF, HBOT

Susan E. Notter, CEPC, AAC

Segment Spotlight Keith Blauschild, CEC Jon Papineau Mark Wright, CEC, AAC, HOF, HBOT

Keith Blauschild, CEC

WEARECHEFS.COM

3

| President’s Message | Un Mensaje Del Presidente |

Editor-in-Chief Amelia Levin Creative Services Manager David Ristau Graphic Designer Armando Mitra Advertising and Event Sales Eric Gershowitz Director of Marketing and Communications Alan Sterling Contributing Editors Amanda Baltazar, John Bartimole, Mike Kostyo, Lauren Kramer, Paul Sorgule, Robert Wemischner Copy Editor Erica Demarest

American Culinary Federation, Inc. 6816 Southpoint Parkway • Ste 400 • Jacksonville, FL 32216 (800) 624-9458 • (904) 824-4468 • Fax: (904) 940-0741 ncr@acfchefs.net • ACFSales@mci-group.com • www.acfchefs.org

Board of Directors President René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC Immediate Past President Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC National Secretary Jeff Bacon, CEC, CCA, AAC National Treasurer Kyle Richardson, CEC, CCE, AAC American Academy of Chefs Chair Joe G. Aiello, CEC, AAC, HOF Vice President Central Region Rajeev Patgaonkar, CEC, AAC Vice President Northeast Region Ray McCue, CEC, AAC Vice President Southeast Region Bryan Frick, CEC, AAC Vice President Western Region Greg Matchett, CEC, AAC Executive Director Christopher Tanner, CEC, CCE, AAC Advisor Thomas J. Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, HOF, HBOT The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), January/February 2024, Volume 48, Number 1, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced six times per year by ACF, located at 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216. A digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without written permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent to ACF’s national office: 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741.

The National Culinary Review® is mailed, and periodical postage is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®,6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216.

As we embark on a new year, I want to extend my warmest wishes for a Happy New Year, hoping that 2024 brings prosperity, success and boundless culinary creativity your way.

This year marks a significant milestone for our organization as we celebrate our 95th anniversary. It’s a testament to the dedication and passion of our members, who have played a pivotal role in shaping the culinary world. The theme for this issue is “Chefs, Don't Forget Your Culinary Heritage!” It serves as a reminder of the rich heritage and traditions that have brought us to where we are today.

One of the luminaries we should never forget is Chef Auguste Escoffier, a pioneer who revolutionized the culinary industry. His contributions to kitchen organization and the systematization of culinary techniques have had a profound impact on the way we cook and serve food. As we honor our history, let us not take for granted how our kitchens are organized today, thanks to Escoffier’s innovations (read an article about that from ACF Chef Paul Sorgule, AAC, on page 26).

I would also like to pay tribute to Chef Eugénie Brazier, who holds a special place in culinary history for being the first chef to earn three Michelin stars. Her commitment to cleanliness, attention to detail and zero-waste philosophy are values we should continue to uphold in our kitchens.

We’re also kicking off an exciting time ahead with a yearlong trends focus, each month dedicated to a different culinary trend. In February, our trend is culinary hertiage — we’re celebrating nostalgia and comfort foods as well as dishes that reinvent the classics. I encourage you to participate by sharing your culinary creations, photos and stories around comfort foods and modern interpretations on social media (be sure to tag #acfchefs).

As we enter this new year, let us not forget the sacrifices and dedication of our men and women in uniform who protect our nation.

We owe them our gratitude for ensuring our safety and freedom to cook and be creative.

Remember, as your national president, I am here for you. Chefs, I got your six. Know that I am here to serve you, just as you serve the culinary world every day. Let’s look forward to an inspiring year of growth, innovation and culinary excellence. I can’t wait to see the delicious, heartwarming and creative dishes you will bring to the table in 2024.

Together, we will continue to uphold the standards of excellence that define the ACF. Warmest regards,

René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC National President, American Culinary Federation

4

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

Al embarcarnos en un nuevo año, quiero expresar mis más cálidos deseos de un Feliz Año Nuevo, esperando que el 2024 les traiga prosperidad, éxito y una creatividad culinaria ilimitada.

Este año marca un hito importante para nuestra organización al celebrar nuestro 95 aniversario. Es un testimonio de la dedicación y pasión de nuestros miembros, quienes han desempeñado un papel fundamental del mundo culinario. El tema de este número es “¡Chefs, no olviden su herencia culinaria!” Sirve como recordatorio del rico patrimonio y las tradiciones que nos han llevado a donde estamos hoy.

Una de las luminarias que nunca debemos olvidar es el Chef Auguste Escoffier, un pionero que revolucionó la industria culinaria. Sus aportes a la organización de la cocina y la sistematización de técnicas culinarias han tenido un profundo impacto en la forma en que cocinamos y servimos la comida. Mientras honramos nuestra historia, no demos por sentado cómo se organizan hoy nuestras cocinas gracias a las innovaciones de Escoffier (lea el artículo del chef de ACF Paul Sorgule, AAC, sobre este tema en la página 26).

También me gustaría rendir homenaje a la Chef Eugénie Brazier, que ocupa un lugar especial en la historia culinaria por ser la primera chef en obtener tres estrellas Michelin. Su compromiso con la limpieza, la atención al detalle y la filosofía de desperdicio cero son valores que debemos seguir defendiendo en nuestras cocinas.

También estamos iniciando un momento emocionante con un enfoque en tendencias durante todo el año, cada mes dedicado a una tendencia culinaria diferente.

En febrero, nuestra tendencia es la herencia culinaria: celebramos la nostalgia y las comidas reconfortantes, así como platos que reinventan los clásicos. Te animo a participar compartiendo tus creaciones culinarias, fotografías e historias sobre comidas reconfortantes e interpretaciones modernas en las redes sociales (asegúrate de etiquetar #acfchefs).

Al comenzar este nuevo año, no olvidemos los sacrificios y la dedicación de nuestros hombres y mujeres uniformados que protegen nuestra nación. Les debemos nuestra gratitud por garantizar nuestra seguridad y libertad para cocinar y ser creativos.

Recuerde, como su presidente nacional, estoy aquí para ayudarlos. Chefs, tengo sus seis. Sepa que estoy aquí para servirle, tal como usted sirve al mundo culinario todos los días. Esperemos un año inspirador lleno de crecimiento, innovación y excelencia culinaria. No puedo esperar a ver los platos deliciosos, reconfortantes y creativos que traerán a la mesa en el 2024. Juntos, continuaremos manteniendo los estándares de excelencia que definen al ACF. El más cálido saludo,

René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC Presidente Nacional, Federación Culinaria Americana

WEARECHEFS.COM

5

| On the Line |

Online Exclusives at WeAreChefs.com

Visit WeAreChefs.com, the official content hub for the American Culinary Federation, for stories and news about ACF members, industry and menu trends, recipes and more.

2024 Trends Supplementing ACF’s first-ever 2024 Trends Report, we’ll post online exclusives about dishes and data centered on our monthly trends. For January and February, we’re focused on comfort food, soups and stews and classic desserts and chocolates for Valentine’s Day. Member Spotlights Keep checking here (and on our social media channels) for mini profiles on you, our esteemed members, such as ACF Chef Keio Gayden (left), in between issues of NCR. Baron H. Garland Knowledge Bowl As we head into the preparation season for this year’s Knowledge Bowl, hear from last year’s winning manager, ACF Chef Keith Gardiner, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC, on what’s involved.

ACF ChefsForum Webinar Series The ever-popular ACF ChefsForum Webinar Series continues! Recent webinars have covered health care trends, contemporary holiday buffets and more.

Missed a webinar? All recorded sessions are at wearechefs.com/acf-chefsforum-webinar-series.

Ingredient of the Month Each month, we highlight a different ingredient in the ACF’s Online Learning Center.

Visit the center at acfchefs. org/IOTM to complete a quiz and earn one hour of continuing education credit toward ACF certification and recertification.

ACF’s Online Learning Center The Culinary Insider, ACF’s biweekly newsletter, offers ACF news and links to recent articles, plus information about upcoming events, certification, member discounts, competitions, contests and much more. Sign up at acfchefs.org/tci.

Follow the ACF on your favorite social media platforms:

Check out ACF’s Online Learning Center. There you’ll find NCR quizzes, videos of educational sessions from ACF events, practice exams for certification and more. Visit learn.acfchefs.org to get started and earn CEHs.

Hover your camera here to view recipes from the pages of NCR and shared by members!

@acfchefs @acfchefs @acf_chefs @acfchefs American Culinary Federation

6

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

Tag us on Instagram!

When posting your delicious creations on Instagram, tag #ACFChefs or send to @acf_chefs and we’ll repost our favorites here and online!

| News Bites |

NEWS BITES Career Center When was the last time you checked out the ACF Career Center? There are some great jobs listed including: • Executive Chef, Willow Oaks Country Club (Richmond, Va.) • Head Pastry Chef, The Hotel Hershey (Hershey, Pa.) • Executive Chef (Senior Living), Morrison (Maplewood, N.J.)

2024 IKA/Culinary Olympics Best of luck to ACF Culinary Team USA as they get ready to travel to Stuttgart, Germany, to compete in the 2024 IKA/ Culinary Olympics, Feb. 2-7. We shared some of the latest team updates in the Nov/Dec issue of NCR, and we’ll follow up with all the details about the event on WeAreChefs.com and in the March/April issue.

ACF Online Learning Center Need to earn some CEHs? Choose from a variety of courses and classes in the Online Learning Center, including Garde Manger, Menu Planning and Food Cost Accounting as well as a new specialized certificate in Food & Beverage Management. Coming soon: Advanced Beverage Management and Advanced Sanitation.

8

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

New ACF Military Task Force ACF President René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC, has created the ACF Military Task Force to bring enhanced support to our military chefs. “We want to ensure that everyone has a seat at the table, including members of our armed forces,” he says. The committee includes ACF Chefs Jeffrey E. Phillips, CC (chair); Guy Winks, CEC (vice chair); David A. Marcelli, CCE, CEC, PCC, AAC (Western Task Force member); Michael R. Edwards, CEC, PCEC, CCA (USN member); Opal Poullard, CEC (USAF member); Jazmen Y. Davis, CWPC (USAF member); Edward E. Fuchs, CEC, CCE (USCG member); John Scott Jeffries, CEC (USCG member); Dominic Difatta (advisor); and Edward H. Manley (advisor).

Competition Corner International Chefs Day

Meet the new ACF Competition Committee Chair!

ACF Chef Vanessa Marquis, CEC, AAC, chair of the newly created International Chefs Day Task Force, announced there were 456 events held for International Chefs Day on Oct. 20, which were attended by 3,678 chefs and reached 140,749 children around the world. Turn to p. 32 to read about ACF members who hosted events for Childhood Nutrition Day on Oct. 16. If you are interested in joining in on the planning for next year’s events, contact Chef Marquis at vnmarquis@gmail.com.

ACF Chef Frank C. Costantino, Ed.D., CEC, CCE, CEPC, CCA, AAC, is the assistant vice president of academic affairs and dean of the School of Hospitality Management and the Culinary Institute of New York at Monroe College. He also serves as executive chef of The Dining Lab at Monroe College. Chef Costantino coached the winning 2022 and 2023 ACF National Student Team champions.

Apply to Compete in the 2024 ACF Knowledge Bowl The 2024 rules and guidelines for the ACFEF Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge Bowl have been released.

Start putting together a team and get ready for an exciting competition year! Application deadline is May 14. Learn more at acfchefs.org/knowledgebowl.

Q: What’s your background in competitions?

A: I’ve been coaching college students for 23 years now. More recently, in the last 15 years since I’ve been at the Culinary Institute of New York at Monroe College, we’ve won over 1,200 medals in competitions. We’ve won multiple regional championships, and our team was the Northeast regional champion and the ACF National Student Team champions the last two years. After 20 years as a judge and 25 years as a competitor, it’s been my ultimate goal to become chair of the competition committee. I am so blessed to have that opportunity.

Q: What are some of the benefits of competing?

A: Competition is critical for any [culinary school] program, for a number of reasons. Most importantly, they bring pride and passion to the campus. When other students see the students on the competition team practicing and training, they get a sense of the value of the program, whether they compete or not. But for me, [competitions] are a way to accelerate culinary students’ growth and trajectory in the industry. I believe in this so much that I actually wrote my dissertation about it; I talked to 10 coaches across the nation and about 250 students and came up with the conclusion that competitions accelerate students’ movement in the industry up to an average 1.2 years faster than students who have not had competition experience.

Q: What’s in store for ACF competitions this year?

A: We want to get people interested. Right now [at press time] we’re in the application process for regional qualifiers for all five of our categories. So that’s Chef of the Year, Pastry Chef of the Year, Student Chef of the Year, Student Pastry Chef of the Year and Student Team National Championship, which is the new

WEARECHEFS.COM

9

| News Bites |

official name for that award. For those, the competitions are going to be around the country in the different regions — the winners will advance to the national competitions at convention. The military qualifiers are happening at Fort Lee in March, and the top five will compete for national titles. We settled on one qualifier competition last year because we weren’t sure about attendance still after the pandemic, but I’m happy to say that we are fully back and competitions are booming. And that includes not just the regional qualifiers, but also other local competitions around the country.

Q: Where can we find more information about and guidelines for competitions?

A: We haven’t updated the competition manual since 2019.

So now we actually have five manuals coming out, including a student competition manual, a professional competition manual, an ice carving manual, a judges manual and a show chair manual for people interested in hosting a competition.

Those are available at acfchefs.org/competitions. We also introduced a couple of student categories to get students involved who may not be ready for traditional competition — so we have a knife skills and fabrication category, a pastry skills category and a classical category where students can recreate a dish with their own spin — these will qualify for ACF medals.

Q: Why might you encourage students and professional chefs to enter competitions?

A: Everything we do in the industry is time-sensitive.

Competitions teach that sense of urgency that you don’t typically get in the culinary lab setting or cooking at home. I think students benefit from so many aspects of it, not just time management, but also honing skills in cleanliness and sanitation and understanding the discipline that it takes to be successful as a competitor. There’s also that competitive edge you get. Every day we have to ask ourselves: What sets us apart? We compete every day for guests to come back to our restaurant [The Dining Lab at Monroe College]. Many of the students working in our restaurant were or are on our competition team, and they tend to excel and maximize their potential in those classes because of being part of our competition program. For a full list of upcoming competitions, visit acfchefs.org/competitions.

The deadline for applications for the 2024 ACF National Awards is Jan. 15. The deadline for Dr. L.J. Minor Chef Professionalism Award is Jan. 31. For the list of awards and to apply visit acfchefs.org/awards.

Congratulations to the following gold medal winners from recent ACF-sanctioned regional competitions!

ACF Raleigh-Durham Area Chef’s Association Oct. 11, Wake Tech Community College Tessa Freer (SC4) Raiza Villarreal Rivas (SC4) Michele Garrin (SC4) Sophia Versola (SC4) MacAyla Saraiva (SD) Ashanti Perkins (SD) Emma Helmandollar (SD) Taleah Herring (SD) Chloe Humeniuk (SD) Denise Jiminez (SW) Amber Quinn (SW) Jessica Soldavini (SW) McKenzie Saunders (SW) Esmeralda Esponoza-Santos (SW)

Aramark Oct. 15, Philadelphia Team 7 – International (FS) Team 4 – Sports + Entertainment (FS) Team 2 – Student Nutrition (FS) ACF Greater Kansas City Chefs Association Nov. 3-4, Johnson County Community College Kyla Beaver (SC4) Georgiana Pahon (SK1) Audrey Foshee (SP2) Isabella Sumpter (SP2) ACF West Michigan Lakeshore Chapter Nov. 3-4, Muskegon, Mich.

Matthew Schellig, CEC, CEPC, CCE, CCA, AAC (F4)

10

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

Lionel Hughes, CEC (F4) Jon Bastianelli, CEC (KC) Karlee Valley, CEPC (KP1) Steven Lee (SK) Maya Van Buskirk (SK) Zack Garlock (SK) Aubree Fox (SP1) Autumn Greco (SP1) Avy Briggs (SC2) Haylie Salisbury (SC2) Karly Penhallegon (SC2) Ana Granado (SW) Amelia Mayne (SW) Vienna Middleton (SW) Carlissa James (SW) James Cavaliere (SW) Olivia Brown (SWP) Crystal Schmidt (SWP) Lavender Holzinger (SWP) Madelyn Gucciardi (SWP) Kelsea McMurray (SWP)

Salut ACF Chef Joshua Wickham, CEC, CEPC, AAC, with help from ACF Chef Jason Knapp, CEC, CCA, AAC, and other chef/instructors at Columbus State Community College (and members of the ACF Columbus Chapter) hosted the ninth annual Fry Out Cancer fundraising event to support the Ohio State University Comprehensive Cancer Center’s Arthur G. James Cancer Hospital and Richard J. Solove Research Institute. Since 2014, Fry Out Cancer has raised more than $185,000 for cancer-related charities.

ACF Columbus Chapter chefs, CSCC staff and other volunteers prepped and roasted 500 turkeys ahead of Thanksgiving and fried 100 turkeys on the day of the event to feed local families as well as others in need. Pies and gravy were also sold for an estimated $40,000+ funds raised.

ACF Chef Alxs N. Galit was recognized as an Outstanding Apprentice and honored with the Charles R. Huggins Community Service Award at the 61st annual David G. Hollis Outstanding Apprentice 2023 Awards Ceremony hosted by the Western Apprenticeship Coordinators Association and the Arizona Apprenticeship Advisory Committee in November. Chef Galit is a member of the Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP) and a board member of ACF Chef ’s Association of Arizona.

ACF John Kaufmann, CEC, AAC, HOF, was presented with the AAC Lifetime Achievement Award at the ACF Chicago Chefs chapter AAC dinner on Nov. 18 at Park Ridge Country Club (hosted by ACF Chef Mary Gorski, Chicago chapter president, and National AAC Chair Chef Joe Aiello, CEC, AAC, HOF).

Zehnder’s (ACF Chef John Zehnder, CEC, AAC, HHOF) in Frankenmuth, Mich. (chicken dinner), snagged the No. 14 spot on TasteAtlas’ list of 150 Most Legendary Restaurants in the World and Their Iconic Dishes, with Union Oyster House (Executive Chef Americo DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC) in Boston at No. 43 (New England clam chowder).

The Professional Chefs Association of South Jersey hosted its 11th annual Veterans Day Brunch created by ACF Chef David Goldstein and other members. This was the first year back for the brunch, referred to as “Operation

Serving Those Who Served Us,” after a pause during the pandemic. A group of about 50 ACF PCASJ members and other volunteers served hundreds of meals to vets, volunteers and staff from at the New Jersey Veterans Memorial Home in Vineland, N.J. On Oct. 25, about 135 culinary arts students from Assabet Valley Regional Technical High School’s culinary arts department and 11 other school districts across Massachusetts attended the school’s first-ever Assabet Food Show, created by ACF Chef/Instructor Louis Trudeau with support of lead teacher Chef Margo Wilson and Chef Jessica Bengtson.

Attendees were able to meet with leaders in the industry and explore various service stations with samples of breads, cheeses, soups, cakes, desserts and more. In Assabet’s large shop kitchen, students and culinary instructors rotated in groups to watch demonstrations, including one by ACF Chef Americo DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC, executive chef at Union Oyster House in Boston, who demonstrated how to shuck oysters and prepare oysters Rockefeller. Assabet’s culinary arts department also received a donation of $500 to go toward school supplies for students, courtesy of Arch Painting, Inc. IN MEMORIAM Manfred Wilhelm Bast, CMPC, CEC, AAC, HOF, passed away in November at the age of 84. A longtime member of ACF Philadelphia-DVCA, Chef Bast served on the board of directors as treasurer and raised money for ACF Culinary Team USA as well as many other fundraisers for the chapter. He also served as judge for many culinary competitions and as manager of the ACF Junior Culinary Team. Chef Bast immigrated to the U.S. from Rheydt, Germany, in 1965 and served as executive chef for Manufacturers' Golf and Country Club in Fort Washington, Pa., and later for Fidelity Bank and ARA (now Aramark). He was also a professor at the Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College during his working career.

Have news to share? Email NCR Editor Amelia Levin, alevin@ acfchefs.org.

WEARECHEFS.COM

11

| Trend |

2024 FOOD & INDUSTRY TRENDS ACF’s predictions for what will dominate F&B menus, concepts and lifestyles this year

A

s the premier organization setting the standards of excellence for the culinary industry, ACF remains committed to staying on the pulse of consumer interests and evolving tastes — here and afar — so that we can best feed and serve our customers as well as educate and mentor current and future generations of chefs.

That is why we’re excited to announce that we’ve launched our first-ever Trends Report this year, offering a closer look at the macro and micro trends poised to impact the culinary industry in 2024. We consulted with foodservice research firms, trends experts and culinary leaders to help us

12

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

both track trends happening in our immediate food communities as well as identify global influences gaining ground on menus in the U.S. The following summary offers just a snippet of the 2024 ACF Trends Report, with a deeper dive into our first trend, comfort foods, in our Main Course and On the Side sections. Expect more coverage of food and menu trends in upcoming issues of NCR. We hope this and our accompanying report will offer you inspiration and insights as you develop new dishes, menus, foodservice products, concepts, lesson plans and services throughout the year.

1. CULINARY HERITAGE Whether it’s updating a classical European dish with new plating techniques or modernizing your grandmother’s casserole with high-level ingredients, nostalgic dishes and comfort foods have been exciting chefs today as we celebrate our culinary heritage.

Meatloaf, green bean casserole and chicken and dumplings all have a place on today’s menus, along with modern takes on boeuf bourguignon, On the Menu: 40-Layer Lasagna by Chef David bouillabaisse, Deshaies of L’Ardente in Washington, D.C. cassoulet, steak frites and jambon-beurre. According to third-party research firm Datassential, osso buco and cassoulet are two of the fastest growing comfort food dishes on menus nationwide, while Mexican cuisine remains the go-to for comfort foods in the U.S., especially among Gen Zers and millennials, reported by Unilever consumer research.

139% - the growth of birria tacos on menus between September 2022 and 2023 (Source: Datassential Comfort Food, Sept. 2023)

2. FOOD AS MEDICINE More consumers today seek tailored meals and nutrition programs, and this has tasked chefs to deliver on those wants and needs. At the same time, increasing numbers of medical and culinary professionals are realizing that healthy diets can prevent, manage and treat various diseases. Culinary nutrition as a discipline is becoming widely On the Menu: Mango & Kale Chaat Salad by Chef Ashfer Biju, Perrine at The Pierre Hotel recognized in the

health care sector, with groups such as the American Society for Nutrition recognizing that certain diets, ingredients and combinations of nutrients are imperative for improving the health and wellness of our bodies and minds.

The term “keto” used on menus was up 64%, followed by “plant-based” at 35% (Source: Datassential Deep Dive Diet Trends, May 2022)

3. HIGHER CUISINE With cannabis becoming recreationally legal in much of the U.S., it’s also finding its way to the dinner table. We’ve seen the explosive growth of THC-laced edibles like gummies, chocolates and baked goods over the past couple years; now, chefs and beverage makers are experimenting with infusions in composed dishes and drinks. According to Datassential, millennials are driving interest and consumption in products containing both cannabis and non-high-inducing CBD, which is said to relieve anxiety and can be found in everything On the Menu: While not legally allowed on restaurant menus, chefs are from cocktails to experimenting with THC-infused dishes donuts. Last year, ACF like sous-vide lamb chops with smoky, THC-laced eggplant puree and marijuana launched a Specialized bud “dusting,” that can be served at private Certificate in Culinary dinners that don’t officially charge guests but might ask for “donations.”

Cannabis and Edibles, available through the Online Learning Center.

Just under half of consumers have tried both THC (53%) and CBD (55%) products, and the use of CBD oil can be found on 0.6% of U.S. menus, a +328% increase over the past four years (Source: Datassential Cannabis report, Nov. 2023)

WEARECHEFS.COM

13

| Trend |

4. MODERN BARBECUE AND SMOKE When we picture barbecue, we often think low and slow here in the U.S. Chefs are taking things one step further, exploring the science behind injects and rubs and experimenting with new and bold spices and flavor combinations.

On the Menu: Barbecue Chefs are also reaching beyond pork Chopped Mutton and Sliced Mutton Plate at and beef to include lamb and other Moonlight Bar-B-Q Inn proteins in the barbecue mix. On top in Owensboro, Ky. (credit: American Lamb) of that, smoke and live-fire cooking are taking center stage in kitchens with delicacies like smoked chicken wings, smoked salts, smoked cocktails — even smoked cheeses and desserts — hitting the table.

Honey and Korean barbecue sauce flavors are leading the pack in terms of menu growth, at 5.2% and 2.7%, as of last year (Source: Datassential MenuTrends, Q3 2023)

5. FOOD TRUCK MADNESS The industry is changing in many ways, and COVID-19 certainly escalated that. Staff shortages and labor challenges are the most talked-about issues among chefs. Now, rising real estate and food costs are becoming a concern. Pre-pandemic, food trucks broke these startup barriers by offering a lower cost of entry in the form of smaller footprint and less staff requirements, not to mention creative freedom. We think food trucks are poised to make a major comeback in the coming years as the culinary landscape On the Menu: Food truck at weekly street fair in White Bear Lake, Minn. continues to evolve.

74% of consumers say they’ve visited a food truck; 55% say they want to see more of them in their city.

(Source: Datassential, Food Trucks, April 2023)

14

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

6. GLOBAL PANTRY With such a diverse culture in the U.S. and how easy it’s become to access global ingredients, our pantries have changed dramatically. Sriracha sauce has become as mainstream as ketchup in some parts of the country, with Korean gochujang following closely behind. It’s common to see a splash of XO sauce or a dusting of furikake. Japanese matcha is being used more in green sauces, and the availability of chiles from Latin America to Asia continues to grow. According to Datassential, 30% of consumers are familiar with Argentine chimichurri, commonly served with steaks and seafood.

44% of U.S. consumers are interested in global condiments and sauces; 51% of U.S. operators would menu them today (Source: Datassential Trendspotting: Global Sauces and Condiments, April 2023)

7. THE WHOLE CHEF From work-life balance to mental health awareness and new exercise regimens, chefs are prioritizing health and wellness in their everyday lives and becoming far more aware of the need to take care of themselves and those in their communities than ever before. Organizations such as CHOW (Culinary Hospitality Outreach Wellness), A Sip of Paradise, the Giving Kitchen, Healthy Pour and I Got Your Back (IGYB) all work to support those in the hospitality industry with a goal to eighty-six stigmas around mental health and substance-free lifestyles.

68% of consumers want to drink more water and exercise more in 2024 (Source: Datassential 2024 Food Trends Report, Nov. 2023)

8. FIVE-STAR ELEGANCE FOR EVERYONE Once reserved only for fine-dining outlets, high-end ingredients like black truffles can be found on a wider swath of menus, from truffle-infused mayo at Popeyes to the truffledusted French fries at Dave & Buster’s. There is no denying that the everyday guest is looking for an elevated food experience. Barrelaged soy sauce, flowerspecific honeys and new wave barbecue sauces help elevate everyday flavors. At On the Menu: Smoked Lobster Mac and Cheese by Chef Alex Hoefer, Wind Creek the same time, we’re Hospitality seeing more examples of familiar meeting fancy in the form of Wagyu beef burgers, nduja-topped pizzas and saffron-spiked sauces.

The use of hot honey as an ingredient has grown 111% over the past four years with a 5.6% growth among restaurants last year (Source: Datassential MenuTrends Q3 2023)

9. THE NEW BAR

On the Menu: Melon Baller with Watermelon, Citrus and Soda at Fly Trap in San Francisco. (credit: Paprika Studios)

Functional beverages like CBD drinks, kombucha, mushroom tea, cold coffee and even energy lemonade are elevating the cocktail experience — with or without alcohol. As more consumers seek low- or no-alcohol libations, these products make it easier to please the sober curious, or just those looking for fun sans booze. Even non-alcoholic beers taste more like the real thing and natural wines with naturally lower ABV are becoming more commonplace.

10. CULINARY MASH-UPS Fusion has been around forever, but it might have been the infamous cronut that brought the kitsch and the fandom. Today, we’re focused more on “crosscultural cooking” — as af&co.’s 2024 Hospitality Trend report called it — with chefs drawing from professional experience and personal backgrounds to create dishes, menus and full restaurant concepts that combine elements from one or two cuisines On the Menu: Ramen Bolognese, Soy Sauce Injected Burrata Fettunta and Temomi Ramen at a time.

Shrimp Scampi by Chef Robbie Felice of Korean pastaRAMEN (credit: Kikkoman) tacos and Rueben egg rolls got the ball rolling; now we’re seeing Vietnamese-Cajun, Mexican-Mediterranean and Jewish deli-Cuban mashups, plus more applications of Wafu cuisine combining Italian and Japanese flavors as well as a wave of fun ingredient combos like chicken bacon ranch, chile garlic and mango habanero.

Compound flavor mango habanero is up 83% on menus over the past four years (Source: Datassential Flavor Remix, July 2022)

58% of consumers are interested in low-alcohol drinks and 45% are interested in no-alcohol drinks (Source: Datassential Future of Drink, Oct. 2023)

WEARECHEFS.COM

15

| Trend |

COMFORT FOOD Chefs are revisiting European classics and putting global spins on American staples // By Amelia Levin

N

ostalgia’s back, baby. We kicked off the new year with our 2024 trends summary and our February monthly trend — culinary heritage and comfort food. Apparently, we’re right on target.

“A new generation of chefs are rethinking what classic cuisines can be,” third-party research firm Datassential’s 2024 Food Trends report states. “Look across the country and you’ll find new Italian restaurants with bolder, spicier, often TikTok-friendly dishes on the menu, French spots that combine both light and indulgent dishes, new takes on classic desserts and pastries, and a less stuffy view of fine dining.”

Fried snacks like empanadas and arancini, along with fried chicken cutlet sandwiches and Eastern European favorites such as pierogies and paprikash, are just beginning to gain traction on menus nationwide, according to Datassential’s Comfort Food report released in October 2023.

Coming more into focus are reinvented French and Italian classics. According to Datassential, cassoulet is the top-growing comfort food option on menus in the past 12 months, growing 33.4% on menus during that time. Osso buco is another classic dish that’s growing in popularity, Datassential reports.

16

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

We’re also seeing a growth in “upscale comfort,” with chefs taking familiar favorites like cheesy casseroles, mashed potatoes and mac and cheese and adding fancy ingredients like truffles and truffle oil, smoked cheeses — even uni.

Chef Roy Villacrusis of Asiatic Culinary Services takes a global approach with his mac and cheese, which features chicharron seasoned with Ethiopian berbere and ayib (Ethiopian cheese) (left)(credit: Barilla). Chef K.N. Vinod of Indique in Washington, D.C., draws from his Indian heritage with his Kerala shepherd’s pie featuring seasoned lamb leg and curried mashed potatoes (right) (credit: Aussie Beef & Lamb).

On the Menu According to both Datassential and Bacon Paprikash at a recent report from Unilever Food Greenbush Brewing Co., Solutions, Mexican cuisine has fast Sawyer, Mich. become the source for North America’s Pastina in Brodo at Frank favorite comfort foods, especially Restaurant, NYC amongst Gen Z and millennials.

Osso Buco Taco at Rye, “Most diners want to enjoy comfort Craft Food and Drink, food at least once a week, so whether McKinney, Texas it’s an LTO or a menu mainstay, Cassoulet at Small Batch Mexican-influenced dishes are worth at the Cupola, Harbor considering,” Datassential’s October Springs, Mich.

2023 Comfort Food report states.

Akara at Upohar, Birria tacos have exploded on the Lancaster, Texas restaurant scene, claiming a 139% Menudo at Cielito Cafe, growth on menus across the U.S. in Houston the last year, and a whopping 2,995% Albondigas Soup at Don menu growth over the last four years.

Juan’s Mexican Grill, The spiced and stewed meat, often Glendale, Ariz. served with the broth it was cooked in, has become a consumer favorite across the U.S. Comfort foods — from here and afar — offer chefs a blank canvas to play, experiment and please their crowds.

Let your customers know you have their safety in mind.

ACF COVID-19 Safety Training Take the ACF COVID-19 Safety Training for Foodservice course and earn a certificate and verifiable digital badge that can be displayed on your website and social media channels.

Available in the ACF Online Learning Center. Visit acfchefs.org/OLC

Topics Covered:

• Key Features of COVID-19 • Minimizing Risk and Preventing Spread • Best Practices for Foodservice • Examples from Chefs in the Industry

| Sponsored Content |

HARNESSING UMAMI The Essence of Deliciousness and Versatility

A

ny dedicated chef knows that it’s how you build flavor that sets your dish apart.

Deliciousness is at the heart of cooking — at the end of the day it doesn’t matter how many hours you spent or how appetizing the food looks if the taste of your food isn’t truly memorable. Umami is a very powerful tool to create superlative food, and understanding how it works and how to get it into your food is essential.

The History Umami, one of our five basic tastes, has been at the heart of delicious and traditional foods globally even before we knew what it was. The reason is that all humans have taste receptors that are specific to umami and transfer a message of deliciousness to the brain. Examples of umami-

18

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

rich foods (parmesan, sun-dried tomatoes, various dried mushrooms, cured hams, miso, fermented fish sauce, etc.) dot the globe. Understanding the science of umami begins in Japan with a chemist named Dr. Kikunae Ikeda. In 1908, he made the discovery (spurred on by his wife’s soup) that glutamate is the source of a taste he could not identify. He named it umami which means "essence of deliciousness." Glutamate is an important amino acid for all living creatures (amino acids are the building blocks of protein). When glutamate is not attached to other amino acids, it is the substance that pleasurably engages with our umami taste receptors.

Dr. Ikeda went on to co-found The Ajinomoto Group with its first product: monosodium glutamate (MSG). MSG is basically a sodium atom attached to glutamate. Dr. Ikeda created MSG to make it easy to handle and cook with (and to make it less acidic). As such, MSG is the purest form of umami readily available to chefs. Despite MSG's proven safety, delicious umami taste and efficacy as a flavor enhancer, the U.S. witnessed a wave of anti-Asian xenophobia in the 1960s, leading to unfounded fears about MSG. Triggered by a 1968 letter in the New England Journal of Medicine, this misinformation

impacted Chinese restaurant owners, compelling them to display "No MSG" signs.

Decades later, Ajinomoto Health and Nutrition (AHN) is working hard to change this misconception. Respected scientific bodies nationally and internationally tasked with determining the safety of food ingredients all agree that MSG is safe for consumption. This makes sense given that the glutamate in foods like parmesan, miso, and tomatoes is identical to the glutamate in MSG. Nonetheless, scientific misinformation continues to be spread throughout the food community which only further confuses the public. Often, this spread of misleading information is done from a marketing and branding perspective and discourages chefs from using a powerful tool to increase the taste profiles of their food.

Propagating untruth is simply disingenuous.

The Possibilities AHN produces MSG in southeastern Iowa to this day using local corn and fermentation. In today’s increasingly nutritiousconscious world, MSG can play a role in reducing sodium all the while creating a strong depth of flavor. The reason for this is that MSG contains one third the amount of sodium as table salt.

Replacing pure salt with a mix of 2/3 salt to 1/3 MSG reduces total sodium by 25%. A blend of 50% salt and 50% MSG reduces sodium by 40%. This well-documented strategy can help achieve the FDA’s recommendation that restaurants voluntarily comply with the FDA’s short-term sodium reduction targets by April 2024.

Recalling that umami means “essence of deliciousness,” how can chefs start to incorporate MSG into dishes to increase umami and enhance other flavors? AHN Corporate Chef Chris Koetke, CEC, CCE, HAAC, recommends using ½ to 1 teaspoon of MSG per 1,000 grams of total ingredients as a general guideline to start. From there, as any good chef will tell you, taste and adjust as needed. Here are some suggestions to start with: • Toss vegetables with olive oil, salt, MSG and other seasonings as desired before roasting in the oven or sautéing.

For steamed or boiled vegetables, season after cooking.

• Season your favorite cooked grains with salt and MSG while they are cooking. The added umami creates a meatier and more satisfying flavor profile.

• Eggs benefit tremendously from MSG as the increased umami adds flavor complexity.

• MSG is essential in plant-based cuisine such that the increase of umami provides a rich, savory note that is often missing.

The Future Umami has a bright and versatile future in the U.S. While MSG was once unfairly stigmatized, American consumers are increasingly understanding the role that MSG plays in making memorable food.

Younger consumers are not only accepting of MSG, but they also embrace it as a common ingredient.

Trendsetting chefs and mixologists are spotlighting umami and specifically MSG. As sodium concerns become more center-stage, driven by the FDA sodium reduction targets, MSG can be an important tool to reduce sodium.

MSG is the fastest way of adding umami and its flavor enhancing abilities to food without adding other flavor compounds. It is analogous to chefs’ use of salt to increase salinity or sugar to increase sweetness without additional flavor compounds. MSG is a powerful tool in the kitchen and deserves to be used unabashedly as the important fifth taste that it is.

• Elevate the flavor of dips, soups, sauces and dressings by seasoning with salt and MSG, along with other desired ingredients. It adds a savory element and flavor persistence.

WEARECHEFS.COM

19

GLOBAL COMFORT | Main Course |

A look at three dishes from around the world gaining traction on U.S. menus // By Mike Kostyo How to Work With It

While the name may be new to many U.S. consumers, the flavor profiles are familiar — avgolemono soup is basically a creamy chicken noodle soup with a citrus twist. There’s no single, agreedupon recipe for the soup in Greece, giving chefs carte blanche to play with the build. Rice or orzo are classic additions, but chefs can experiment with ratios (some versions feature a hint of lemon, while others are almost mouth-puckeringly tart), swap in different proteins (chicken meatballs, seafood) or add whatever veggies are on hand. Flavor-enhancers like garlic and dill are also common.

AVGOLEMONO SOUP What is It?

Avgolemono might be considered the one true mother sauce of Greece, combining eggs, lemon and stock to create a concoction that is rich and creamy, yet balanced by the tart citrus.

Originally introduced by Sephardic Jews, with a name derived from the Greek words avgo and lemoni (or egg and lemon), today avgolemono is used as a sauce for meats and vegetables or as a thickener for soups and stews. It’s often served with dolmades. Indeed, the name avgolemono has become synonymous with Greek lemon chicken soup in the U.S., found everywhere from classic Greek diners to a new generation of Greek restaurants that are taking the cuisine in new directions. At both locations of Chef Jose Andres’ modern Eastern Mediterranean concept Zaytinya, chicken soup avgolemono is a staple on the menu, upgraded with housemade kritharaki pasta and extra veggies in the form of carrots, onions, celery and greens with the option to add a soft-poached egg on top.

20

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

MALFATTI What is It?

A dish that translates to “poorly made” may not sound like a promising start to a tasty entree option, but it’s simply code for “rustic” and “homemade” when it comes to these Italian dumplings. Malfatti can be found throughout Italy’s Lombardy and Tuscany regions, combining greens like spinach or Swiss chard with

ricotta, flour, eggs and the chef’s choice of flavorings (fresh herbs, ground nutmeg, chili flakes, onions, etc.).

Like gnudi and gnocchi, malfatti are formed by hand, though they are often rolled into plump little fingershaped dumplings. Malfatti have become something of a specialty in Napa Valley, but they can be found on menus throughout California. At Bellanico, a restaurant and wine bar in Oakland, the malfatti are made with Swiss chard, served in a browned butter and sage sauce, and finished with nutty Grana Padano.

How to Work With It

As Asian and Mexican ingredients and dishes have captured the attention of younger U.S. consumers, chefs have to keep innovating to keep well-known cuisines — like Italian — from stagnating.

Introducing consumers to new, on-trend options like burrata or cacio e pepe has been one way to keep Italian cuisine fresh and exciting to modern consumers. Enter malfatti, a comforting dish that is easy to produce back of house (no rolling and cutting sheets of pasta dough required). Malfatti can showcase just about any seasonal greens and herbs you have on hand, while the dumplings are equally at home in a light broth, richer butter sauce or flavor-packed tomato sauce (consider baked malfatti for a particularly rustic and comforting menu option).

IDLI

What is It?

If you ask anyone who grew up in southern India what they remember eating for breakfast as a child, they’ll likely recall fond memories of soft, fluffy, warm idlis. Eaten in some form for over a thousand years, these tender, savory cakes are made from black lentils and rice, which are soaked, ground or blended into a batter, then fermented and steamed in special molds.

While idlis are breakfast staples in India, typically served with chutney or sambar, they are also popular for lunch, dinner or a quick snack. At Kaveri, a south Indian concept in Gaithersburg, Md., the idli section of the menu includes options like mayavaram kostu idli made with ghee, ginger, chili and cashews; parcel idli steamed in banana leaves; and even mini bitesized idlis for kids.

How to Work With It

Idlis sit at the intersection of multiple trends that are catching on in the U.S. Idlis showcase

fermentation; other fluffy global carriers like bao are becoming increasingly common; and idlis use the same batter as dosas, the thin, savory Indian crepes that have grown 11% on U.S. menus in the past 12 months alone, according to Datassential, a thirdparty research firm focused on the restaurant and foodservice industry. Consider idlis as a starting point for culinary creativity — cooks and chefs in India certainly do. Fenugreek is the classic flavoring, but options like cumin, ginger, pepper, turmeric and garam masala are common. You can stuff idlis, serve them in soups and stews or even use them in mashup dishes (Indian street food vendors will often use idlis left over from breakfast in savory dinner dishes, like idli Manchurian, an Indo-Chinese take on gobi Manchurian). The steamer molds used to make idlis are inexpensive, but chefs can also use small bowls or even large cake pans or pie tins and cut idli into individual servings.

Mike Kostyo is a food trends expert and writer based in Chicago. Kostyo was a recurring guest on Fusion TV's “The AV Club Show”; has been featured on NBC Nightly News, WGN Radio, CBS Radio and Gimlet Media’s “Why We Eat What We Eat” podcast; is regularly featured in newspapers and magazines; speaks at numerous conferences across the country annually; and was a judge on Food Network’s “Eating America.” He has a master’s degree in gastronomy from Boston University, plus certificates in the culinary arts, baking arts, wine and artisan cheese production.

WEARECHEFS.COM

21

| Management |

Corporate Cooking A Day in the Life of a B&I Chef // By Amelia Levin

W

e caught up with ACF Chef Doug Patten Sr., CEC, CCA, AAC, a senior corporate executive chef for FLIK Hospitality (part of Compass Group) who has been with the company for the past three decades. Chef Patten oversees more than 100 accounts in the Northeast region, and he also travels around the country to oversee and train during new business openings.

“A lot of my work is ensuring our accounts are following the FLIK standards and offering support in any way, whether it’s helping with sanitation logs, providing recipes and training videos,” says Chef Patten, who notes he’s worked with just about every Fortune 500 company during his tenure at FLIK, where he serves in the B&I division, though the company maintains accounts in other segments such as sports and entertainment. Chef Patten has worked with businesses of all types, including law firms, investment firms, pharmaceutical companies and others.

Lately, with the advent of remote work, Chef Patten has noticed that the busier days tend to be Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, so chefs need to “check the badge counts from the previous day and weeks to get a rough estimate of how many people they’re prepping for and adjust accordingly,” he says.

On the menu development front, Chef Patten says FLIK maintains a strong marketing and R&D team that continually tracks industry trends and develops and tests recipes for the company’s proprietary recipe and nutrition database that he can access while helping onsite chefs plan their menus. “Our chefs have a lot of leeway to create their menus and if they need help, there are plenty of recipes in our database with all the nutritional info as well as cooking demo videos.” Lately, Chef Patten has been noticing that most of the FLIK customers are looking for classic, signature dishes and recipes without a ton of fuss, from pasta stations with plenty of ingredient add-ins

22

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

10:30 A.M. – OFFICE TIME “After breakfast, I’ll go right into the office and might tweak some of the station diagrams that we will leave behind so if another manager or chef comes in down the road they’ll have a guide to follow. I also noticed the team was missing a couple logs so I’ll help with that. And then there are other items on my checklist on standards, procedures, sanitation and ordering guides that I might not have gotten to during the initial opening.”

11 A.M. – LUNCH PREP “We’ll start getting the soups out and taking temperatures and marking those in the production records. I’ll make sure everything is set up correctly at the stations and then help get additional food out for lunch service.”

1:30-4 P.M. – CATERING ASSISTANCE ACF Chef Doug Patten Sr., CEC, CCA, AAC

to sizzling steak and other protein- and plant-based bowl options, plus indulgent items like chocolate chip cookies and lemon bars. Allergen-friendly items are hugely important, too.

Authentic items have to be just that. “If we are introducing a new program like a Chinese bing station, we’ll do videos on how to cook the items, set up the station and work with the equipment to get the message out correctly,” Chef Patten says.

To maintain quality and consistency, FLIK uses an outside auditing service to track customer feedback.

“If a low score pops up, that’s when we’ll make sure we visit that account and support the team to get back on track,” Chef Patten says.

During this interview, Chef Patten was at a law firm in Houston. Here, he tells us a little about his day.

“I usually head to the office again to finish up some other logs for the catering division and then I’ll visit the catering kitchen to help pump out the last of those jobs. I might also do a few culinary demos for the staff, especially for new staff members. I’ll show how to correctly cut a pepper to save on waste, for example. They love that attention and that someone cares. That’s what gets me up in the morning.”

4-5:30 P.M. – FINAL OFFICE WORK “To close out the day, I’ll update the production records so they don’t have to and make sure all the logs are in place. Maybe we’ll do a little prep for the next day. Or I’ll do other little things [the client] might need, like print off and help hang an allergen sign that was missing. I’ll spend at least a week at a time at a site to ensure the proper support. We don’t just walk in for a day or two.

We stay, and when I leave here, another corporate chef will come in on the second week, and I might even be back in a couple weeks to follow up. We pride ourselves in that support, and [the kitchen teams] have our numbers and they can call us for anything they need going forward. We’re always there for them.”

7 OR 8 A.M. – ARRIVE ON-SITE “Usually when I get there I’ll do a quick assessment of the kitchen and servery. I’ll make sure everything is set up and help get last-minute dishes together. I might also help them pump out the food during breakfast service. Today it was only the chef ’s third day so I also helped him set up the breakfast bar according to our standards using FLIK diagrams and photos.”

WEARECHEFS.COM

23

| Classical vs. Modern |

Classical

ACF Competition Committee Chair Frank Costantino, Ed.D., CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC, dean of the School of Hospitality Management and the Culinary Institute of New York at Monroe College, and student Isabella Torres collaborated to present Chef Auguste Escoffier’s Recipe #1929, sole à l’andalouse, in classical and modern form. For the classical version, plated in the handheld, Russian platter-style Escoffier was known for, Chef Costantino and Torres prepared a sole and scallop forcemeat containing braised and chopped pimento that was then rolled into paupiette shape and poached in a buttered saute pan with fish stock and wine. The paupiette was nestled in a lightly cooked tomato shell with a pimento-studded risotto cooked the traditional way at the base. The stuffed tomato was then served on a round slice of fried eggplant and finished with a drizzle of beurre noisette.

Modern

Monroe College students presented this same modernized version of sole à l’andalouse during the ACF National Competition Qualifiers last year that advanced the students to the national stage at convention. Torres, who was an apprentice on the student team at the time, will lead the team in this year’s competitions. For this version, Chef Costantino and Torres prepared the same seafood forcemeat but used piquillo pepper powder for extra color and flavor. The resulting pimento mousseline was then piped onto sole filets, rolled up “pinwheel style” and lightly poached in fish fumet and white wine. To speed up the risotto cooking process for competitions, the Arborio rice was ground into a coarse powder to transform into a porridge of sorts when cooked in just a few minutes. For plating, a tomato coulis formed the base and was topped with the risotto porridge, paupiettes of sole, panfried Japanese eggplant slices and a brown butter foam. Dots of a piquillo pepper gel made with the powder and agar encircle the fish at the center with a chervil garnish offering a final ode to the legendary Escoffier, who was known for using this fine herb in many of his dishes.

For recipes, visit acfchefs.org/recipes.

24

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

CL

LASSICAL

vs. MODERN

Photo Credits: Frank Naccari

Celebrating 95 Years of ACF History

Chefs, Don’t Forget Your Culinary Heritage!

The importance of remembering and honoring the iconic Chef Auguste Escoffier // By ACF Chef Paul Sorgule, AAC

I

n 1998, I walked down the streets of Villeneuve-Loubet, pride, respect each other and carry themselves as consummate France, with great anticipation of my destination. Walking representatives of the kitchen where they worked. What they did as cooks and chefs was important and impactful. through the doors at 3 Rue Auguste Escoffier, I entered the He developed a brigade system still used in kitchens museum and previous home to the late, great Chef Auguste today. Chef Escoffier used his background Escoffier. I had been dreaming of this day as chef in the French military to develop since I first heard the story of the culinary the kitchen brigade: how his kitchens were icon from the first executive chef I worked organized, respect for the chain of command for in Buffalo, N.Y. In his office at the Statler and delineation of responsibilities and skill.

Hilton Hotel, Chef had a copy of “Le Guide Although it has changed a bit, the structure Culinaire,” a book that contained 5,000 of today’s kitchen still follows the essence of recipes from Chef Escoffier. this model.

“Sit down, Paul, and let me tell you about the He championed organization and great man who wrote this,” he said at the time. communication.

With his kitchen brigade From that day on, I knew this visit to came the ability to organize work for ACF Chef Paul Sorgule, AAC Escoffier’s home would be part of my bucket efficiency and build strong communication list. Walking through the rooms and halls between cooks and departments.

Mise en place is a way of life in where Chef Escoffier lived, I came upon his desk, one that was kitchens — much of which can be credited to his brigade design. likely used when he wrote parts of “Le Guide Culinaire” and He strove for excellence in service.

Chef Escoffier and his developed the brigade system that’s still used in kitchens around front-of-the-house counterpart, César Ritz, built an environment of the globe to this day. I placed my hand on his desk and felt the mutual respect between employees and guests that led to a model electricity course through me — it was a magical moment. of service that remains the benchmark in quality operations today.

Hearing all this, some will certainly nod in understanding.

He introduced one of the first forms of a la carte dining.

Others, however, might ask, “Why is this important to me? Why Chef Escoffier discounted the ancient style of service requiring should we care about a chef who lived and worked over a century ago?” all food to be presented simultaneously (service à la Française) In so many walks of life there are individuals who become a and introduced service by course (service à la russe). This helped symbol of something special — a point of inspiration and guide to maintain temperature and quality, reduce waste, improve those who aspire to greatness in their lives. They may be political efficiency and increase profitability, and became the precursor figures, athletes, artists, musicians, religious leaders, business to the model that defines our industry today. He also believed in visionaries or beacons of intellect, but in all cases, they provide a simplicity in cooking and presentation — something that today benchmark and direction for those who aspire to be like them. Chef we espouse by letting the ingredients speak for themselves and Escoffier is the iconic representative of greatness for professional respecting their contribution to the meal. chefs. You will likely find a copy of “Le Guide Culinaire” on many Some believe that traditions and history hold people back chef’s desks that’s as much a source of inspiration as it is a reference and discourage creativity. Some may feel that respecting for cooking. Since that day in Villeneuve-Loubet, a framed picture tradition is simply another way of resisting change. I feel quite of Chef Escoffier has held a place on my office wall in kitchens I led differently especially when it comes to the kitchen. One would and later in my home office. He is there to remind me of why I chose only need to look at other art forms to understand the role cooking as a career and to whom I should aspire as a chef. tradition plays in contemporary expression. Chef Escoffier is a So, to answer the question: Why should we care about benchmark for modern cooks and chefs — the foundation on Escoffier? Here are my thoughts on his contributions: which today’s systems, menus and concepts are built. As such, He elevated the status of chef to be a proud and noble he deserves to be respected and referenced. profession. Chef Escoffier operated his kitchen with discipline, Opposite from top: The iconic Chef Auguste Escoffier (center, in black), ACF’s but at the same time, always showed respect for those who were first president, Charles Scotto (left), and other Escoffier pupils (Photo courtesy of Robert Hendry, oldcooksbooks.com); Chefs at the second ACF convention in 1950. members of his team. He insisted they wear their uniform with

WEARECHEFS.COM

27

| ACF History |

A Brief Look at the History of the ACF The following timeline is just a snapshot of ACF’s storied 95 years of history. The ACF Past Presidents Committee and other volunteers are collecting more information and materials showcasing ACF history for a complete archive of the federation.

1920s – 1940s

The first American-based culinary organization is formed amid the Great Depression and world wars

1929 – The American Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF), a professional organization for chefs and cooks, is founded in New York.

The mission of ACF has remained steadfast throughout the years: to promote the professional image of American chefs worldwide through education of culinarians at all levels, and above all else, to set the standard of excellence for the culinary industry.

1930 – The first ACF officers, including the late Charles Scotto, HOF, as National president, are elected on Jan. 14. Chef Scotto was an early protégé of the legendary Chef Auguste Escoffier and was once referred to as Escoffier’s “favorite pupil.”

1932 – The first edition of the National Culinary Review is printed and distributed.

The first issue of the National Culinary Review was printed in October 1932.

1950s

Post-war growth and chapter formation

1939 – The first Culinary Congress is held at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel on Nov. 6-9.

This would be the precursor for the ACF National Convention, though it was much smaller at the time and consisted of chefs from a few different culinary organizations rather than ACF chapters.

1941-1944 – ACF sends food relief packages to those in need in Asia and Europe during W WII. 1950 – ACF hosts the first official ACF National Convention in New York City.

1955 – ACF’s subgroups are consolidated into a single national body with separate chapters at the ACF National Convention in Pittsburgh. Also at that convention, the American Academy of Chefs is formed based on a majority vote.

1956 – The ACF Culinary Team USA (formerly known as U.S. Culinary Team) is formed, putting American chefs on the international stage at the IKA/Culinary Olympics for the first time.

1960s – 1970s

Elevating the professional status of chefs and American chef competitors

28

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

1972 – ACF Chefs Ferdinand Metz, CMC, AAC, HOF, and Jack F. Braun, CEC, AAC, HOF — with the support of L. Edwin Brown, HAAC, HHOF (who would become the ACF’s first executive director) — develop the first ACF certification program. Six levels of certification are recognized: CEC, CEPC, CCC, CWC, CCE and CMC. Chef Metz also spearheads the implementation of ACF apprenticeship programs after a false start in that effort in the ‘30s.

1960s – 1970s continued

1976 – After the 1960 and 1964 ACF Culinary Team USA teams score multiple gold medals at the IKA/Culinary Olympics, the watershed moment occurs when the 1976 team, captained by Chef Metz, ties the French team (led by Chef Joel Robuchon) for third place, putting American cuisine firmly on the map.

1977 – ACF forever changes the culinary industry by helping to elevate the position of the executive chef from service/domestic status to the professional category in the U.S. Department of Labor’s Dictionary of Occupational Titles. Since then, U.S. chefs have been recognized as skilled and professional members of the workforce.

The first Culinary Congress, held at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, on Nov. 6-9, 1939.

1980s – 1990s Competition prowess on the national and international stage

“The ACF worked long and hard to raise the position of chefs from that of a mere domestic servant to a skilled professional. Because of ACF’s effort to upgrade the U.S. government’s culinary classification, cooking was no longer reserved for the lazy and the untrained. As a result, cooking became an acknowledged profession.” — ACF Chef Ferdinand Metz, CMC, AAC, HOF 1981 – The first Certified Master Chef exam is held in September at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. The exam takes 10 days lasting nearly 14 hours per day; five out of eight chefs earn the title as the first CMCs. Today, there are just under 70 CMCs nationwide.

1982 – ACF opens permanent offices in St. Augustine, Fla. The location was chosen when the city offered a free plot of land on which to build.

1980, 1984, 1988 – ACF Culinary Team USA sets the world record for the most consecutive World Championships in the hot food category at the IKA/Culinary Olympics.

1989 – The ACF Chef & Child Foundation is formed to promote proper nutrition education at elementary schools and in communities across the country.

The first Certified Master Chef candidates and some of their instructors involved in presenting the program.

1992 – ACF Chef Lyde Buchtenkirch becomes the first woman elected to the AAC and the first woman to compete on an IKA competition team. She would later become the first woman to earn the distinguished title of Certified Master Chef.

2000s

2001 – ACF introduces its first-ever five-year strategic plan under ACF Chef Michael Baskette, AAC, the then director of operations.

ACF certifications, media and brand awareness

2004 – Sizzle, ACF’s first magazine for students, is printed.

2010s – Present

2016 – The newly formed ACF Women’s Task Force presents its first roundtable discussion at the ACF National Convention in Phoenix, during which topics surrounding diversity, equity and inclusion — not just women’s issues — are discussed.

Diversity, equity and inclusion become new focal points for the ACF

2004 – ACF’s certification programs grow to include Certified Fundamentals Cook, Certified Culinarian, Certified Pastry Culinarian, Personal Certified Chef, Certified Sous Chef and others.

2016 – At the IKA/Culinary Olympics in Erfurt, Germany, ACF Culinary Team USA ranks fourth in the world overall and earns the top score and overall gold medal in culinary art in the cold food competition. The ACF Young Chefs Club is established.

WEARECHEFS.COM

29

| ACF History |

2010s – Present continued

“It takes a lifetime to build a legacy. Young chefs need to be aware of what’s been done before them in order to fully develop their own path.

As a young student, I made it my goal to absorb as much as possible from each ACF chef I worked with, including many successful women chef mentors.” — ACF Young Chefs Club President Xiomara Mora-Rivera 2017 – ACF Chef Denise S. Graffeo, CEC, AAC, HOF, becomes the first woman elected to the American Academy of Chefs Hall of Fame.

2020 – The COVID-19 pandemic temporarily shutters dine-in, causing many restaurants and foodservice businesses to lose funds and close permanently; ACF Chefs are rethinking the way they do business, from offering takeout to switching to virtual learning at the educator level.

2021 – ACF Chef Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC, becomes the first woman of color and first pastry chef elected as ACF National president. Chef Brock Brown brings back the Diversity and Inclusion Task Force and creates the Work/Life Balance Task Force during her two-year term.

ACF Young Chefs Club President Xiomara Mora-Rivera

2021 – ACF Chef Ashten Garrett is the first recipient of the newly created L. Edwin Brown Leadership Award.

2022 – ACF introduces the first Student Pastry Chef of the Year Award under Chef Brock Brown’s leadership, earned by Sarrenity Dickson.

2023 – ACF René Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC, becomes the first former military chef elected as ACF National president. He creates the Military, International Chefs Day and Chapters Supporting Chapters Task Forces.

Past ACF Presidents 1929-1937 1953-1954 1954-1956 1956-1959 1959-1960 1960-1962 1962-1964 1964-1967 1967-1973 1973-1975 1975-1979 1979-1983 1983-1987 1987-1991 1991-1993

30

Charles Scotto, HOF* Paul Laesecke, AAC, HOF* Pierre Berard, AAC, HOF* Eugene Ertle, HOF* Peter Berrini, CEC, AAC, HOF* C. Orby Anderson, CEC, AAC, HOF* Willy Rossel, AAC, HOF* John Bandera, CEC, AAC, HOF* Jack L. Sullivan, AAC, HOF* Amato Ferrero, CEC, AAC, HOF* Richard Bosnjak, CEC, AAC, HOF* Ferdinand E. Metz, CMC, AAC, HOF Baron H. Galand, CEC, AAC, HOF* Jack F. Braun, CEC, AAC, HOF* Keith Keogh, CEC, AAC

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

1993-1994 1994-1995 1995-1996 1996-1997 1997-2001 2001-2005 2005-2009 2009-2013 2013-2017 2017-2020 2020-2021 2021-2023 2023-

Michael Ty, CEC, AAC, HOF* John Folse, CEC, AAC, HOF, HBOT Tim Ryan, CMC, AAC Reimund Pitz, CEC, CCE, AAC, HOF Noel Cullen, CMC, AAC, HOF* Edward G. Leonard, CMC, AAC John Kinsella, CMC, CCE, AAC, HOF* Michael Ty, CEC, AAC* Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, HOF, HBOT Stafford DeCambra, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, HOF, HBOT Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC Present René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC *deceased

The Establishment of the American Academy of Chefs The idea of creating an honor society for the ACF was considered for many years before it was ever officially presented to the officers and members in 1948. Several years later after much debate, on Nov. 12, 1952, during the third annual National Convention of the ACF, the newly elected National President Paul Laesecke, AAC, HOF, of Pittsburgh, hosted a renewed discussion of the proposal. In 1954, ACF Chef Pierre Berard, HOF, then the ACF National president, sent a letter to the Board of Governors convening in New York City, and he also requested the help of a U.S. representative to introduce a bill to charter the establishment of the AAC. Though the bill failed to get out of committee, at the ACF National Convention in Pittsburgh in 1955 delegates finally voted to establish the new honor society.

ACF Chef Peter Berrini, AAC, HOF, a delegate from Boston, was charged with the responsibility of organizing the academy.

He was elected as the first chairman of the academy, and he held that office until his election to the office of ACF National president in 1959. At that time, the academy boasted a membership of 37.

Since then (and two The American Academy of Chefs was medal designs later), the established in 1955. academy has had a host of chairpersons, many of whom also served as ACF National president.

This year, ACF Chef Americo S. DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC, passed the torch as chair to ACF Chef Joe G. Aiello. For the full AAC history and list of past chairpersons, visit acfchefs.org/aac.

ACF Culinary Team USA and the Culinary Olympics The Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung (IKA) Culinary Olympics is one of the oldest, largest and most diverse international culinary art exhibitions in the world, dating back to 1900. The event is hosted every four years by the German Chefs Association. This year’s IKA will take place in Stuttgart, Germany, on Feb. 2-7, when roughly 2,000 chefs and pastry chefs from more than 60 nations compete for medals in individual and team categories.

in the shape of Texas; salmon in puff pastry; stuffed Long Island duck with coulis; turkey casserole; and even cantaloupe melon filled with turkey stew and decorated with a turkey made out of pie dough. “We even put blue, red and white American potatoes on the table — no one had ever seen potatoes in those colors before at the Olympics,” says Chef Sonnenschmidt, who would go on to serve as team manager in ’80, ’84 and ’88. “That was the beginning of the understanding of American cuisine.”

ACF Culinary Team USA’s history with the Culinary Olympics dates back to 1956.

Into the ‘90s, the team continued to break In 1960, only six years after American from European tradition and prepare 1964 ACF Culnary Team USA chefs first competed on the world stage, American food using American techniques, the U.S. Culinary Team (as it was then known) captured its ingredients and style — a torch today’s team still carries. At first World Championship title at IKA. The team returned in press time, the 2024 ACF Culinary Team USA wasn’t able to go 1964 to rack up eight gold medals. The wins continued for the into detail about the final menu to be presented at the upcoming next two decades, from 1968-1988, under the guidance of ACF Culinary Olympics, but Team Captain Dan Holtgrave, CEC, has Chef Ferdinand E. Metz, CMC, AAC, HOF, HBOT, who has said it would reflect regional nuances and ingredients indigenous to won more than 30 gold medals in international competitions. the U.S. This is only the second Olympics when teams will present He served as team manager for the culinary team that won edible cold platters. The Chef’s Table, as it’s called, requires a meal the 1968 Culinary World Cup, and he led Team USA to three for 12 people, including hors d’oeuvres, a seafood platter, a vegan consecutive World Championships at the IKA. course (another newer introduction), entree and petit fours. The hot food portion of the event, including Restaurant of the Nations ACF Chef Fritz Sonnenschmidt, CMC, AAC, HOF, who was and Live Carving, will remain the same and test teams to produce on the 1976 team, says the worldwide bronze medal and tie with a multi-course restaurant and banquet meal demonstrating the France was “a big achievement at that time.” “Everybody looked highest levels of precision and creativity. at American food as frankfurters and hamburgers, but when we won in ’76, it was the first time we ever put American food on To read more about the current ACF Culinary Team USA, visit the Olympic table,” he says. That year, the team served Texas acfchefs.org/team. steak with a coffee-infused barbecue sauce; deep fried onions WEARECHEFS.COM

31

| Health |

FOR THE KIDS These ACF Chefs are feeding healthy food to future generations // By Lauren Kramer

C

hildren are the next generation, and their dietary and nutritional habits should be in the spotlight. Their eating habits will dictate their future health, which will have farreaching implications on their longevity, their contribution to the workforce and the toll they will exact on the American health care system. But the data on kids’ eating habits remains worrying; a 2021 study published in the medical journal JAMA noted that 67% of calories consumed by children and adolescents in 2018 came from ultra-processed foods.

We caught up with two ACF members of the newly formed International Chefs Day Task Force who are determined to make a difference, and who recognize the inherent value in teaching nutrition to the younger generation.

When ACF Chef Kareen “Coco” Linton left a career in fashion design to become a chef, she knew food would be her vehicle to connect with people. But one thing that shocked her was how many ACF Chef Kareen "Coco" Linton children around her in Tampa, Fla., didn’t know where fruit and vegetables even came from. “They think it comes from supermarkets,” she says.

As a kid in Barbados, Chef Linton, the CEO of A Dash of Coco LLC, recalls picking bananas from a tree outside her house and having a vegetable garden out back. “Many kids today don’t have the opportunity to see how these things can be grown, and to learn about the nutritional value of food,” she reflected. She knew she wanted to change that.

When an urban farm was established behind her building in Tampa’s Downtown Tempo District in 2019, the opportunity

32

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

presented itself. Chef Linton got to know one of the farmers, Travis Malloy, and discussed her vision of bringing elementary-aged children from the community to the farm to learn about food. He loved the idea and was eager to collaborate with her to make it happen. But with delays caused by COVID-19 among other challenges, the vision took four years to come to life.

Partnering with the ACF Tampa Bay Chapter, the Tampa Housing Authority, Meacham Urban Farms, developers from Encore! Downtown Tempo District and others, Chef Linton arranged a tour for 12 neighborhood children aged 6 through 8 in October 2023.

The program, set to coincide with International Chefs Day and Childhood Nutrition Day (Chef Linton is a member of the newly formed ACF International Chefs Day Task Force), involved a farm tour to meet the chickens, watch the bees in their hives and learn about some of the herbs and vegetables grown on the farm. After that, the children were taken to the Meacham Urban Farm kitchen, where they donned chefs’ caps and aprons and were given a demonstration on how to make pizza using the basil they had just learned about.

“Of course, because it was pizza, everyone was happy!” Chef Linton says with a laugh. “The kids enjoyed making their own meal and wanted to know when they could do it again. Seeing the joy in their faces really touched my heart.”

At press time, Chef Linton was already planning the three-course meal she would be making for those children for a Thanksgiving-style dinner. “We’re making it a white tablecloth, farm-to-table meal so they can see where these ingredients came from and at the same time, see what the different levels of service are, using food as a vehicle,” she says.

A Christmas event is also in the planning, where

shoppers at Meacham Urban Farm retail stores will be able to make a Christmas gift wish come true for one or more of those children. Her hope is to make these programs a monthly event focused on food education and nutrition.

ACF Chef Michael Garahan, CEC, makes healthy food fun for kids through his food “mascots” — cartoon-like characters aligned with healthier choice foods that he showcases to students at elementary schools he visits throughout the country to educate and host cooking demonstrations.

“A lot of kids say they don’t like spinach, but when they’re introduced to it in a Green Goddess smoothie, they realize they like it,” says Chef Garahan, a private chef. The smoothie, which contains spinach, green grapes, pineapple, banana, water and ice, is one of the items he demonstrates in schools. Far from turning their noses up at it, most of the children are coming back for second helpings. When farmers markets are in season, he purchases local, seasonally available produce. Chef Garahan once prepared a selection of purple radishes, roasted beets and roasted carrots for children to sample. Again, the response was overwhelmingly positive.

“I get emails from parents requesting more healthy ideas for their kids because their kids love it,” he says. Chef Garahan has prepared kits of broccoli, olive oil and fresh garlic for kids to make at home. That dish replaces traditional broccoli casseroles

made with canned cream of mushroom soup — a staple in many households he’s found over the years. His granola recipe, with pecans, almonds, coconut and oatmeal served with yogurt, was also a hit. “We gave the kids a twocompartment cup ACF Chef Michael Garahan, CEC for their granola and yogurt, and they’re now coming to school with yogurt parfaits instead of processed granola bars,” he says.

“As a result of their introduction to healthy, simple foods, kids are changing their eating habits,” says Chef Garahan. “But it takes time. The Centers for Disease Control says kids need 50 hours of nutritional education a year for behavioral change, but they only get 10 hours per year on average. The repetition is important.”

ACF’s Commitment to Child Nutrition Planning for next year’s Childhood Nutrition Day and International Chefs Day, both in October, is already underway, thanks to the ACF International Chefs Day Task Force created last year. The task force is the umbrella group for ACF’s commitment to childhood nutrition and an advocate for the ACFEF Chef & Child Initiative. ACF members may apply for Healthy Eating Grants to fund their child nutrition initiatives. Qualified applicants can receive up to $300 per event, and programs can receive up to $2,500 per granting cycle. The next deadline to apply will be March 31. Learn more at acfchefs.org/ partnerships. To learn more about the task force and contact task force Chair Vanessa Marquis, CEC, AAC, visit acfchefs.org/about.

WEARECHEFS.COM

33

| Chef-to-Chef |

A LOOK BACK The importance of understanding, respecting and appreciating our history // By ACF Chef Thomas Recinella, CEC, AAC

A

s I sat at an ACF national convention dinner with my colleague and dear friend ACF Chef Michael “Mickey” Beriau, CEC, AAC, another chef who we did not know asked to join us at the table. We of course said yes and welcomed him by introducing ourselves. After he settled in, he looked at us and noticed our Honorable Order of the Golden Toque lapel pins. He said, “Oh, you are both one of them.”

Chef Beriau and I looked at each other and really did not know what to say. We both consider ourselves chefs no different than any other really. It made me think that many in our federation simply have no idea of the rich history of not only the ACF but also the American Academy of Chefs (AAC) and the Honorable Order of the Golden Toque (HOGT). The ACF, AAC and HOGT are inexorably intertwined in their history through many chefs who moved between these three incredible organizations. These chefs have made great strides in impacting the future of our profession. In fact, many past ACF national presidents and AAC chairs were also members of the HOGT. Without all of these chefs’ contributions, sacrifices and innovations, our profession would not be where it is today.

ACF Chef Pierre Berard, AAC, HOF, served the ACF as its third national president from 1954 to 1956.

According to the historical record of the AAC, in 1954, Chef Berard sent a letter to the Board of Governors convening in New York City asking for the establishment of the AAC. Chef Berard, however, did not stop there. His determination and passion to form an honor society to honor and celebrate excellence and dedication to the profession burned Archive photo of ACF Chef deep in him. Knowing that the AAC Pierre Berard, AAC, HOF was in the capable hands of ACF Chef Peter Berrini, AAC, HOF, who became the AAC’s first chairman and went on to become ACF’s

34

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

Left: ACF Chef Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC, HOF, in 1959. RIght: modern era photo of Chef Perrotte.

fifth national president, Chef Berard set his sights on the formation of the Honorable Order of the Golden Toque.

One of ACF’s most venerable and beloved senior members, ACF Chef Louis Perrotte, CEC, AAC, HOF, unbeknownst to himself at the time, was actually present for one of the very first gatherings that Chef Berard organized to discuss his vision with fellow chefs.

“In 1959, as a 19 years old cook, I briefly met Chef Pierre Berard while working at the Carlton Hotel in Washington, D.C.,” Chef Perrotte, a former ACF Southeast Region vice president who will be 84 years young this January, told me. “This was during an informal meeting chaired by him with a few chefs from hotels like the Carlton, Willard, Statler Hilton, Mayflower and Hay-Adams. I had no interest at all in attending, but I heard later on that it was about gathering ideas and supporting one another.”

Little did Chef Perrotte know that members of that group would be the ones to found the HOGT. Chef Perrotte was later inducted in 1992 after many years of service in the industry.

Chef Bernard’s contributions to the industry extend beyond just the establishment of the HOGT. “At the time Chef Berard retired, my Chef Bernard Binon would have lunch with him in his office,” Chef Perrotte said to me. “I had no idea of who he was, but he seemed more ‘Americanized’ than the other foreign chefs. I learned that he had been in the U.S. for already a few years. Contrary to most other European chefs, he was very involved in improving the training, the respect, the opportunities of the cooks of the country by using the European traditional customs of the times. He was doing this with the help of other progressive chefs. Despite being retired he was still working for the betterment of the profession.”

Not long after, the HOGT was registered with the U.S. patent office. Dr. L.J. Minor, HAAC, HHOF, Chef Louis I. Szathmary, AAC, HOF, and Lt. Gen. John D. McLaughlin (all members of the ACF, AAC

and HOGT), among others, were successful in petitioning the U.S. government to elevate the status of executive chef from the Services to the Professional category in 1977. This paved the way for the success of the modern-day ACF certification program.

Our federation was founded by chefs who understood the history of their profession and how important it was to never forget our origins. They understood the foundations and pillars upon which ACF was built, and the challenges that chefs have faced throughout its development. The ACF was born out of a desire to unite chefs together in support of each other and the betterment of all chefs. What would it have been like had Chef Berard and chefs like him forgotten about their past and never concerned themselves with the future? Thankfully we will never know.

ACF Chef Thomas Recinella, CEC, AAC, is dean of culinary at the Culinary Institute of Michigan in Muskegon. His career has spanned more than 40 years in the industry and post-secondary education. An active ACF member for more than 35 years, Chef Recinella is an ACF certified culinary and ice carving judge and an ACF practical exam mentor. He is a member of the Honorable Order of the Golden Toque, for which he serves as historian and archivist. He enjoys spending time with his family, especially his beautiful grandchildren.

Digital.

Secure.

Verified.

As the premier certifying body for cooks and chefs in America, The American Culinary Federation remains committed to providing you with the tools to achieve your professional goals. We are pleased to announce the launch of a new way to communicate the ACF credentials you have earned in the ever-expanding online marketplace — at no cost to you!

WEARECHEFS.COM

35

| ACF Chef Profile |

ACF CHEF TONY LE, CEC

The 2023 ACF Chef of the Year

By John Bartimole

W

ACF Chef Tony Le, CEC

36

hat began innocently enough as a 10-year-old boy gamely assuming cooking duties for his family set ACF Chef Tony Le, CEC, on a professional path that recently included him being named ACF’s Chef of the Year for 2023 following a grueling qualifying competition and national competition at the ACF National Convention last year.

“I come from a family with three boys, and we each had different responsibilities,” he says.

“With both my parents having to travel for their jobs, it fell on me somehow to cook. And I enjoyed it, though, in the beginning, I cooked a lot of eggs and other dishes such as pulled pork. You know — a lot of quick and easy, or ‘set it and forget it’ types of dishes.

But that’s where my passion for cooking came from — making meals for my family.”

Chef Le quickly advanced from those simple dishes and, as his repertoire expanded, so did his interest in the culinary arts.

“Then I started cooking for my friends, and within my small social group, I became known as the cook,” he says, adding with a laugh, “perhaps that’s why I was invited to so many parties.”

But Chef Le, who was raised in California, decided to let fate decide his path after he graduated from high school. “My parents said to me, ‘OK, you

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

graduated high school. Now, go out and get a job.’”

After pondering his options for some time after graduation, he decided to apply to Johnson & Wales University “on a whim.”

“But it was a whim that was prodded by my passion for cooking,” he says. “No one in my family had gone to college, so I was the first. I was 21 at the time when I went to [JW]. I had never really been away from home, and I had never really traveled anywhere far away alone. It was quite an experience.”

Chef Le earned two degrees from JW — an associate degree in culinary arts/ chef ’s training and a bachelor’s degree in food service, waiter/waitress and dining room management. It wasn’t long before Chef Le landed a position at the Somerset Club in Boston. “That experience is a big part of my culinary upbringing,” he says.

“At the time, there were a lot of strong individuals, excellent chefs, working there. Those people are giants in our industry. They pushed me every day. I failed every day. I stood up every day and tried again.”

“Every day was a learning experience,” Chef Le adds. “I was the small fish swallowing every bit of information from them that I could. I learned so much from them.”

That willingness to teach others resonated with Chef Le, who currently serves as executive chef at The Country Club in Brookline, Mass., where he rose to that position — from a line cook — in just under eight years.

ACF Chef Tony Le, CEC (right), the 2023 ACF Chef of Year, and his winning dishes from the national competition last July, tasting of summer corn with zucchini, summer corn puree, confit tomato, marinated fava beans, charred corn, marinated sweet pepper, peanuts and coconut tuile.

“I believe so much in the ACF’s mission statement: ‘To be the leader in professional and personal development for the culinary community, while promoting current culinary techniques and preserving the history and skills of our craft.’ I find that chefs are so willing to help out. It’s a very giving community, one that believes in educating others and the next generation.”

Toward that end, Chef Le is trying to set an example for the team he works with. “I’m not someone who normally participates in competitions,” he said.

“But I entered [the ACF Chef of the Year Competition] because I wanted to show my team what was possible for them — such notoriety is not just something you see on TV.” Chef Le wanted to “prove to them it was OK to try to succeed,” he said. “I told them, if we don’t win, I’ll just do it again and again until I do.” But there was no need for that; Chef Le won the only two competitions he’s ever been in — the regional qualifying competition for ACF’s national competitions and the national

competition held during the 2023 ACF National Convention in New Orleans.

“The medal, certificate, and [Chef of the Year] title is great, but the journey is the part that I’ll hold on to for a lifetime,” he said. “Competing for the ACF Chef of the Year was the most challenging hours of my career. It was physically and mentally draining, but those feelings were trumped by the fact that I shared it with the people I love and care about the most.” Chef Le’s next goal is to become a Certified Master Chef (CMC).

At home, Chef Le’s wife, who is Puerto Rican and Portuguese, “does most of the cooking, primarily of Puerto Rican origin, rice and beans, salted cod,” he says. “I enjoy cooking wings at home. In my professional kitchen, I enjoy cooking Nantucket bay scallops.”

Chef Le is optimistic about the future of culinary. “Our profession has a very bright future,” he says. “It’s up to us to bring out the fire in our young chefs. We need to grow this field and encourage and motivate as many people as possible.”

WEARECHEFS.COM

37

| Pastry |

CHOCOLATE FEVER An ACF Pastry Chef and ACF Culinary Team USA advisor talks shop about owning her own chocolate business // By ACF Chef Robert Wemischner

I

f you ask ACF Chef Susan Notter, CEPC, AAC, her favorite part of being a pastry chef, she says this: “Whatever I am doing at the moment. I have loved all of the different segments of the business.” Whether competing or coaching hopefuls in world pastry competitions, teaching, creating a sugar masterpiece fantasy or designing a full line of delectable products for her retail business, Chef Notter has a career that has spanned the gamut.

Today, she offers customers high-quality chocolate and confections at her two-year-old retail shop, Elizabeth Moore Chocolates, near Birmingham, Ala. “I have quite a unique store for the area so even though some may find my flavors somewhat mainstream, I also have fun with a bit more edgy combinations in my chocolate like chestnut mandarin and chai latte toffee apple,” Chef Notter says.

“Around New Year’s last year my theme was infusing cocktail- and spirit-inspired flavors in my chocolates.”

Apple and pear martini, espresso with Bailey’s, and truffles flavored with white port wine headed the list.

“In my shop, I find myself introducing taste experiences to many who are new to high-quality chocolate,” says Chef Notter, who often uses Felchlin Swiss chocolate. She previously served as corporate pastry chef for the chocolate maker, designing dessert programs, troubleshooting, and helping pastry chefs around the country to maximize their usage of top-quality chocolate. “I am gratified to find that customers have begun to seek single-origin chocolate bars.

This is just one of the many perks of owning my own shop and a yardstick by which I measure my success. I get to exercise creative freedom and re-explore here many roles I have played throughout my career.”

38

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

Artisan chocolate by ACF Chef Susan Notter, CEPC, AAC, on display at her two-year-old retail shop, Elizabeth Moore Chocolates, near Birmingham, Ala.

For example, playing off her education background, Chef Notter has developed a series of three-hour classes given three times per month in the shop to enthusiastic audiences. Through these classes, Chef Notter finds that her customers gain a deeper appreciation of the processes, ingredients and price involved in creating unique high-quality products.

As the owner of a small business in a small town, she has found that prized balance between life and work. “I know that I will never be a millionaire and instead choose to divide my time between running the shop and getting away to work toward being a judge for competitions,” says Chef Notter, who is the pastry advisor for ACF’s Culinary Team USA due to compete in the IKA/Culinary Olympics in Stuttgart, Germany, in February. “I suggest that pastry chefs in training compete at the local level and do as many live competitions as possible to gain confidence. It’s only from experience that you will learn.”

ACF Chef Susan Notter, CEPC, AAC (left) and her artisan chocolates (right).

"I AM GRATIFIED TO FIND THAT CUSTOMERS HAVE BEGUN TO SEEK SINGLE-ORIGIN CHOCOLATE BARS. THIS IS JUST ONE OF THE MANY PERKS OF OWNING MY OWN SHOP AND A YARDSTICK

BY WHICH I MEASURE MY SUCCESS. I GET TO EXERCISE CREATIVE FREEDOM AND REEXPLORE HERE MANY ROLES I HAVE PLAYED THROUGHOUT MY CAREER.”

Chef Notter’s Chocolate-Making Tips To enhance shelf life – Reduce water activity through sugar choice. Using a blend of dextrose, low DE glucose and sorbitol sugars “prevents crystallization and creates a smoother, creamier product.”

To maintain flavor – “Use good quality ingredients — that’s paramount to making good chocolate.” Chef Notter prefers single-origin chocolates and couvertures with a strong flavor profile to start. “I like the 88% Venezuela couverture because it has some nice fruit notes with a little bit of cinnamon.”

To create a smooth texture – Process the melted chocolate on low with half of the cream-sugar mixture for a few minutes until the ganache breaks and is grainy.

“Then re-emulsify with the rest of the liquid until smooth and shiny.”

- ACF CHEF SUSAN NOTTER, CEPC, AAC

SCAN HERE TO READ CHEF NOTTER'S 88% VENEZUELA SINGLE-ORIGIN TRUFFLES RECIPE ON ACFCHEFS.ORG. WEARECHEFS.COM

39

| Chapter Close-Up |

ACF OF GREATER BUFFALO NEW YORK NY061

By John Bartimole

T

he ACF Greater Buffalo Chapter is known for celebrating its youth — many of its fundraisers are focused on scholarships for students who will be pursuing careers in the culinary arts. Even more symbolic of its focus on youth is the fact that its president, ACF Chef Phoebe Beiter, CCC, is one of the youngest presidents of any ACF chapter in the country at just 23 years of age.

“We award scholarships in the range of $250-$500 to deserving students,” says Chef Beiter, junior sous chef at the Country Club of Buffalo. “All of those proceeds go to our scholarship fund, which then helps students at two local culinary programs. Niagara Falls Culinary Institute gives memberships to their graduating class and SUNY Erie Community College offers memberships to students involved in the chapter. Both schools are ACFaccredited and the teachers and students are very active in the chapter.”

One of the chapter’s signature fundraisers is its annual golf tournament. Funds from that tournament have since rebounded from a

Above: Buffalo chapter members at the annual Monte Dolce Spring Classic Competition, including some students who competed and the chapter competition chair and event host, ACF Chef Scott Steiner, CCE, AAC, a chef/insturctor at Niagra County Community College (first row, second from left). Below: a Smithfield chef demonstrates pig butchery during a chapter meeting.

40

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

The ACF of Greater Buffalo New York Board President Phoebe Elizabeth Beiter, CCC Chairman of the Board Jean White Vice President Mark G. Wright, CEC, AAC, HOF, HBOT Secretary Kyle J. Haak, CEPC Treasurer Donald A. Schmitter, CCE, CEC Bylaws/Policy & Procedures Committee Chair Scott E. Steiner, CCE, AAC Associate Member James M. Binner, HAAC Board Member Evan Thur Board Member Jacob Rhodes Board Member Joseph J. Piazza, CEC, CCA, AAC Student Chapter President Danica Geinitz

Clockwise from top left: a demo at Rich Products’ corporate headquarters; Buffalo chapter members and Peter and Mary Lou Huebner form Canada Cutlery, regular sponsors of the chapter’s annual golf outing; Buffalo chapter members (from left) Julie Murphy, Jacob Taylor, Angela Nickerson, Rob Lukasik, Joe Piazza, CEC, CCA, AAC, chapter President Phoebe Beiter, CCC, Jackie Bamrick, CEC, AAC (former chapter president), Kyle Haak, CEPC (chapter secretary), Kristin Goss and Michael Roberts pictured at a local CFSA dinner during which Chef Piazza was awarded a silver medal.

pandemic-caused dip in dollars; the event last year helped the chapter’s scholarship fund swell to more than $6,000.

Most recently, the chapter held a fundraiser at Remington Tavern and Seafood Exchange, where the burgers went for $30 but part of the proceeds funded scholarships and certifications.

Networking Opportunities Buffalo chapter leaders host social meetups once per month with a focus on networking.

“We’re all about the people and relationships and networking,” says longtime ACF Chef and Buffalo chapter Vice President Mark Wright, CEC, AAC, HOF, HBOT. Chef Wright, who has been an ACF member for 54 years, recalls the first crop of Buffalo chapter members being high-end chefs who had immigrated from France and Italy and were looking to create a safe place to connect and support each other in finding work and honing

their craft. “I remember as a young chef back then how those chefs would always be talking about ‘the good ole’ days.’”

Since then, the membership has grown to include chefs from all backgrounds and segments. “We have members of all types, some from country clubs, some health care chefs and many over the years from Rich Products, which is based here, along with many students from local culinary schools,” Chef Wright says. “We have always had a strong focus on students and mentoring the next generations of chefs.”

Says Chef Beiter, “Right now, we’re at 148 members, and that includes 79 professional members and 69 student members. We’re averaging between 30 and 60 participants at our meetings, which is up from our low of 15 or so during COVID. And we have between one and 12 students at each meeting.”

“We did have issues during COVID,” she adds.

“We lost a good portion of membership at that time.

We tried to do Zoom meetings, but they weren’t

WEARECHEFS.COM

41

| Chapter Close-Up |

Clockwise from left: ACF Chef Mark Wright, CEC, AAC, HOF, HBOT, Buffalo chapter vice president; ACF Chefs Phoebe Beiter, CCC, Buffalo chapter president, and Joe Plazza, CEC, CCA, AAC; Chef Beiter in her kitchen at the Country Club of Buffalo; Buffalo chapter members and other attendees watch a pig butchery demo presented by Smithfield.

nearly as effective as in-person meetings. Not only was it difficult to stay in touch with our members, but some of our members are just across the border in Canada, and it was almost impossible to cross the border during COVID. “But we were patient, and we realized that some chefs, even as COVID ebbed, couldn’t afford to come back — at least not immediately,” Chef Beiter says. “It took a solid two years of patience and recruiting chefs back to get us to where we are today.”

Educational Focus Chapter members recently enjoyed a sous vide demonstration and an update on health regulations at Buffalo State University, where its culinary students prepared hors d’oeuvres for attendees.

“We try to have a demonstration or talk at each meeting,” says Chef Beiter. “That information really helps everyone. And we’re fortunate that sponsors enjoy

42

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

participating, too. In June, a Smithfield [chef] broke down a half-hog for us — it was very educational.”

Chef Beiter herself is an educator who teaches basic culinary skills at Erie Community College. “There’s nothing quite as fulfilling as seeing a student do something properly for the first time — their face just lights up,” she says.

That desire to teach comes from her own experience during culinary school. “When I began in culinary school, there was so much I didn’t know, like the proper way to hold a knife or how to cut an onion,” she says. “And then, working at the Country Club at Buffalo was where I really honed my culinary skills and gave me the background to help teach in college.”

With its emphasis on the next generations, ACF of Greater Buffalo New York already has formed a strong foundation not only for the culinary industry today — but also for the future.

ACF Thanks Our Loyalty Partners

C R E AT I N G M E N U I N S P I R AT I O N

| Segment Spotlight |

Creative Catering Three chefs discuss the benefits and trends when catering to today’s customers // By Amanda Baltazar

A

CF Chef Jon Papineau threw in the towel at the police department he was working at in 1998 and decided to open his own restaurant. He had no culinary training, just a desire to cook and serve food to people.

By 2006 he was working for the Denver Merchandise Mart, a large catering operation, and since then has worked as a caterer for various operations, from hotels to a convention center and a ski resort. Currently, he serves as director of catering and events for Larkin’s Restaurant Group in Greenville, S.C. Chef Papineau loves catering.

“It’s always something different and I love the personal satisfaction side of it,” he says. He also loves the problem-solving, the “‘how are ACF Chef Jon Papineau we going to pull this off?’ aspect.”

Larkin’s hosts about 360 events per year, including everything from casual gatherings to high-end weddings, and mostly offers on-site catering at its two event spaces. But there’s a big increase in off-site events, says Chef Papineau. For on-site events he can cater to around 250 people due to space, but offsite “the sky’s the limit,” he says.

Chef Cassondra Armstrong, CEC, grew up preparing food for a Jewish caterer in a Jewish synagogue, alongside her mom and grandmother.

When Chef Armstrong graduated from culinary school in 1988, she launched a catering company — and a restaurant for a time — before moving exclusively into catering and personal cheffing.

“I love to entertain so catering has always been my fancy,” says Chef Armstrong, who has catered events for up to 600 people. “I love to put on fabulous events, and I appreciate when people eat the food and the plates come back empty.”

Typically, her events take place in homes — intimate dinners for two to eight people — as well as at various venues for weddings, and she also caters corporate events. She loves the larger events, she says, where she has more support staff. “Then I

44

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

Larkin’s Restaurant Group in S.C. (owned by ACF Chef Jon Papineau) hosts about 360 events per year, including casual gatherings and high-end weddings, at its two event spaces.

can truly command the floor and be the captain of the whole thing. I can see how it looks front of house.”

Working in hotels when he was younger was when ACF Chef Keith Blauschild, CEC, executive chef of The Cook and the Cork in Coral Springs, Fla., and owner of the 17-year-old Parkland Chef Catering, first developed an appetite for catering because of how it offers the ability to showcase various skills, from the pastry arts to butchery to foodservice management.

Starting out in the industry with a catering business worked well, he says, “because there’s so many items you can rent without having to invest in it.” Now his work is split fairly evenly between the catering business and the restaurant.

Catering Trends Today’s catering customers are requesting more appetizer stations, says Chef Papineau, as well as pasta dishes, and he’s getting more specialty alcohol requests — certain types of beer or wine.

Buffet stations outpace plated meals, and Chef Papineau recently had a tasting for an all-Indian wedding, something he’d not seen before.

Special requests tend to be mostly gluten-free, which, he says, “has become so frequent that we don’t even make roux any more — we just use cornstarch.”

For Chef Armstrong, vegan, vegetarian and pescatarian requests are regular, and she has to pay attention to allergens, especially nuts. What’s really popular right now, probably propelled by social media, are island stations, with everything served cold, she says. She’s not a fan of those and says maybe those posting about it are more “caught up with the elaborate presentation and the look of it” over everything being cold.

Chef Blauschild’s clients are looking for high-end plated cuisine similar to “what they’d expect in an a la carte restaurant,” he says. “That’s one of the reasons we’re popular, because the restaurant works hand-inhand with the catering.”

A Sustainable Focus Before he came to Larkin’s, Chef Papineau created two completely green, sustainable programs with previous employers and plans to get this off the ground with Larkin’s.

At Denver Merchandise Mart, he donated all of his scraps to a composting company, which picked them up. He recycled all oils and only sourced sustainable proteins. He also eliminated cardboard cup holders and switched to plastic trays, saving $12,000 per year.

At Larkin’s, Chef Papineau has an herb garden he’s going to expand next year and two bee hives. He buys sustainable food and is eliminating everything that’s not compostable. “One of the farms I work with is trying to find an outlet for my food scraps, but we’ll probably end up taking them to a hog farm so it would become food for the pigs,” he says.

ACF Chef Keith Blauschild, CEC (top left), executive chef of The Cook and the Cork in Coral Springs, Fla.; Various catering creations by ACF Chef John Papineau.

Chef Blauschild also tries to focus on biodegradable products, so less goes to the landfill. “The volume we’re doing makes a difference, at least to us,” he says. And this usually costs more. “Styrofoam containers are the cheapest way to package something, and bamboo costs more, but we work it into the price.”

He also looks to use better chemicals and cleaning products.

“Even just for our own employees. I’ve had people spraying oven cleaner and you can’t breathe in the kitchen so I prefer to buy ones with citrus rather than harsh chemicals.”

Because he has the restaurant he can keep waste low, using up trim “as an appetizer for example. It’s definitely a better way of doing things. And cost-wise it works out if I have something for a catered event and have catered staff prep it and do 30 extra, then I use it in the restaurant, so it cross-utilizes labor.”

Thanks to the variety and flexibility of catering, chefs who discover this segment of the industry typically find they never want to leave it.

WEARECHEFS.COM

45

| Quiz |

NCR Quiz January/February 2024

By Robert Penry Why does ACF Chef Paul Sorgule, AAC, believe Chef Auguste Escoffier is an important figure for professional chefs?

a. He invented modern cooking techniques b. He introduced molecular gastronomy c. He elevated the status of the chef profession d. He was a famous food critic How does ACF Chef Doug Patten Sr., CEC, CCA, AAC, ensure and uphold quality and consistency in the services provided by FLIK Hospitality?

a. Internal audits conducted by FLIK chefs b. Customer feedback tracking through an outside auditing service c. Regular inspections by health department officials d. Online surveys filled out by FLIK employees What percentage of calories consumed by children and adolescents in 2018 came from ultra-processed foods, according to a 2021 study by the Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA)?

a. 45% b. 57% c. 67% d. 75%

What is one of the fastest-growing comfort food dishes on menus nationwide, according to Datassential?

a. Chicken and dumplings b. Boeuf bourguignon c. Green bean casserole d. Cassoulet The use of hot honey as an ingredient has grown 111% over the past four years, according to Datassential MenuTrends in Q3 2023.

a. True b. False Based on reports from Datassential and Unilever Food Solutions, Mexican cuisine has become a primary source for North America’s favorite comfort foods, especially among Gen Z and millennials.

a. True b. False What is the primary ingredient in idli, a soft, fluffy and warm breakfast staple in southern India?

a. Wheat and rice b. Corn and black lentils c. Black lentils and rice d. Oats and rice

In the modern version of sole à l’andalouse prepared by ACF Chef Frank Constantino, Ed.D., CEC, CCA, CCE, CEPC, AAC, and culinary student Isabella Torres, how is the Arborio rice transformed to speed up the risotto cooking process?

a. Soaked in water b. Ground into a coarse powder c. Fermented d. Infused with truffle oil The handheld Austrian platter-style of presentation is a characteristic of Chef Auguste Escoffier’s classical approach to culinary arts.

a. True b. False Where did ACF Chef Tony Le, CEC, land his first position after earning degrees from Johnson & Wales University?

a. California b. New York c. Rhode Island d. Massachusetts Why does ACF Chef Susan Notter, CEPC, AAC, suggest using a blend of dextrose, low DE glucose and sorbitol sugars in chocolate making?

a. It increases water activity b. It prevents crystallization c. It enhances flavor d. It helps achieve a puffy texture What type of chocolate does ACF Chef Susan Notter, CEPC, AAC, use when making her single-origin chocolate truffles?

a. 82% Valrhona couverture b. 84% Venezuela couverture c. 86% Valrhona couverture d. 88% Venezuela couverture The key role in elevating the status of executive chef from the services to the professional category in 1977 was played

by Dr. L.J. Minor, HAAC, HHOF, Chef Louis I. Szathmary, AAC, HOF, and Lt. Gen John D. McLaughlin.

a. True b. False See the rest of the questions, finish the quiz and earn four CEHs toward your certification on ACF’s new Online Learning Center at acfchefs.org/olc.

46

NCR | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

Do you have

WHAT IT TAKES?

The ACF can help you turn your passion into a profession. Certify your culinary skills today.

Get started at acfchefs.org/certify.

Join us in

The 2024 ACF National Convention is being held July 14-17, 2024, at the Phoenix Convention Center in Phoenix, Arizona.

Visit acfchefs.org/events for more information