
1 minute read
Classical vs. Modern
from National Culinary Federation (Jan/Feb 2021)
by National Culinary Review (an American Culinary Federation publication)
Classical
Cuban-American Chef Carlos Villanueva, a Culinary Institute of America graduate and the director of culinary and operations for Puff ‘n Stuff Catering in Orlando, Florida, has nostalgic memories about Boliche Cubano, a classic dish from his heritage that his grandmother Aya often made. The dish features an eye of round roast beef stuffed with Spanish chorizo that has marinated overnight in a mixture of sour orange juice and other citrus juices. As with many Cuban dishes, the cooking process begins with sofrito — a sauté of onions, garlic, bell peppers and a touch of tomato paste. White wine, stock, bay leaves, cumin, oregano and olives are added to a Dutch oven or large, ovenproof pot, and in goes the meat for a braise until tender. While the type of meat can be changed up between a top round or eye, the key ingredients are the citrus, chorizo and sofrito, Chef Villanueva says.

Modern
For a modern spin on the classic Boliche Cubano, and to elevate it to fine-dining status, Chef Villanueva swaps the beef for quail, stuffing the legs and breast meat with a homemade sausage of pork shoulder, heart and blood. He then cooks the quail sous vide until tender, and finishes off the dish with a pan-sear while basting with a thyme-garlic butter. As a nod to the fall and winter seasons, he pairs the quail with a puree of yellow and red beets straight from his garden, along with an onion brûlée, pea tendrils, and a pistachio-puree crumble for a pop of color.
See the classical and modern recipes, as well as more, photos at wearechefs.com.