Southern Russia: Kossacks, Kalmyks & the Caucasus

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Southern Russia: Cossacks, Kalmyks & the Caucasus

June 15–30, 2021 from £4295 per person | with Alex Koller

View of Ascension Cathedral, Novocherkassk

• Journey from Taman to the Russian

Caucasus, via the architecturally important towns of Rostov-on-Don and Volgograd and the spa towns of

Pyatigorsk and Kislovodsk • Discover the history of southern

Russia, from classical Greek colonisation to 19th century literature • Take in the awe-inspiring scenery of

Europe’s highest mountain, Mount

Elbrus Tis brand new tour explores a part of Russia that was a relatively late addition to the Tsarist Empire. As we journey from Taman, close to the coast of the Black Sea, to Azau and Nalchik, near the border with Georgia, we will take in a series of historically important towns and cities, their art and architecture, as well as a wealth of stunning natural scenery. Taman, located on the site of the two ancient cities of Hermonassa and Tmutarakan, is of great archaeological signifcance. As well as being home to a fascinating archaeological museum, it contains museums devoted to Cossack history and to Mikhail Lermontov, providing an introduction to the various cultural threads that will weave throughout our tour. Sometimes called ‘the poet of the Caucasus’, Lermontov is considered one of the greatest fgures in Russian Romanticism, and we will explore his

52 This tour will be led by Alex Koller, PhD, an expert in art and architectural history and accomplished linguist who has been leading tours since 1998. His experience ranges from Russia and Eastern Europe to the Himalayas and Southeast Asia. Alex has studied in Vienna, Salzburg and Cambridge, gaining his PhD in History of Art from Magdalene College, where he has also lectured and supervised. Alex developed this new tour following a recce to southern Russia in summer 2019, and looks forward to introducing an ACE group to this fascinating area.

contribution to Russia’s literary history in Pyatigorsk with a visit to the house where he spent his last months, now a museum. Southern Russia also boasts connections with other great writers, including Tolstoy, and also Sholokhov, winner of the 1965 Nobel Prize for Literature and known for his writing on the lives of the Don Cossacks during the Russian Revolution.

Te history of the Don Cossacks of southern Russia will form an important theme of our tour. Te towns of Starocherkassk and Novocherkassk were both former capitals of the Don Cossacks, and contain exhibitions dedicated to them. Starocherkassk is also home to the Cossack Military Cathedral, which, along with the Buddhist khuruls (temples) in Elista, is one of the most important religious sites in our itinerary. Outstanding architecture can be seen in the towns and cities of Rostov-onDon and Azov, and the spa towns of Pyatigorsk and Kislovodsk. We will see the generously planned neoclassical layouts, featuring avenues and parks. Volgograd, formerly known as Stalingrad, will be a particular highlight of the tour. Its monuments and museums ofer one of the most poignant experiences of the magnitude of the war in the Soviet Union to be found in Russia. It is also home to a marvellous collection of Soviet art and architecture in its most exuberant incarnation.

In addition to visiting the towns and cities of southern Russia, we will journey to more rural areas to meet local people, including the Oyrat nomadic people, who speak the Kalmyk language and little or no Russian. Tey live in tent carts and herd Bactrian camels and sheep. We will have the opportunity to learn about their lifestyle and traditions, and taste traditional tea, pastries and milk vodka. Later in the tour, we will be privileged to meet a master of Kabardian martial arts, and a musician and blacksmith who makes traditional Kabardian instruments.

Te natural landscape of southern Russia is one of the area’s greatest attractions: from the steppe landscape of Kalmykia, to the great rivers of Don and Volga,

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Interior of Ascension Cathedral, Novocherkassk

and Kabardino-Balkaria in the north Caucasus. We will journey through the latter en route to Mount Elbrus, Europe’s highest mountain, where a partial ascent to the snowfelds will provide a ftting fnale for our tour.

We will stay throughout at hotels of three and four-star quality.

FITNESS / PRACTICALITIES: This tour includes a signifcant amount of travel by coach, including two journeys of approximately 5 hours in duration through the steppe, with some particularly scenic stretches. We will also travel by train to Rostov-on-Don, arriving late at night. The tour will involve a moderate amount of walking and standing. Much of the terrain is not physically challenging, but uphill walking will feature at the spa towns and there are steep steps to navigate at some sites. We hope to include a boat trip on the Volga River. The ascents of Mount Cheget and Mount Elbrus, which are optional, will involve use of chair lifts, cable cars and a snow cat. We will reach a maximum of 4200 metres altitude on the latter. These experiences will offer fantastic views, but there are different stages and participants can decide how far they wish to go. The hike on Mount Cheget is also optional and will take place over gravel-type terrain. Making the most of our visit to the region, this tour will feature several hotel changes, so a good level of stamina is required. Whilst we hope to enjoy good climactic conditions in the Caucasus, there is always a chance of inclement weather and therefore some elements of the itinerary are weather dependent.

Please note that the itinerary represents a guide to what we hope to offer, and some elements may be subject to change or confrmation. Certain aspects of the tour may be dependent on weather conditions.

Day 1 Depart London Heathrow 1040 on Aerofot via Moscow, arriving Anapa 2040. Day 2 Excursion to Taman for visits to Archaeological Museum, Lermontov Museum, Cossack Museum and Pokrov Church. Return to Anapa for optional early evening visit to the Archaeological Museum and excavations. Day 3 Morning excursion to Novorossiysk for city tour (embankment, Malaya Zemlya war memorial, Mikhail Kutuzov warship museum). Afternoon: visit to local winery for tour and tasting. Evening train to Rostov-on-Don. Three nights in Rostov-onDon. Day 4 Excursion to Azov: fortress with 18th century powder store museum (rare example of Catherinian Era architecture in southern Russia) and monuments to 1642 Cossack siege; Azov History, Archaeology and Palaeontology Museum. Day 5 Morning tour of Rostov-on-Don including Nativity Cathedral, Armenian Holy Cross Church and Don State Technical University (Don Cossack Guard exhibition). Afternoon excursion to Novocherkassk: visits including Ascension Cathedral (built in New Byzantine style in the 19th century, one of Russia’s biggest cathedrals) and Museum of Cossack History. Day 6 Transfer to Starocherkasskaya for visits including Transfguration Church, Resurrection Cathedral and Ataman’s Palace (exhibitions on the Cossacks). Continue to Volgodonsk for overnight stay. Day 7 Transfer to Kalach-on-Don (Monument to the Unifcation of the Fronts). Continue to Volgograd for two nights. Day 8 Visits in Volgograd: Avenue of Heroes, Victory Park, Pamyat Museum, Historical-Memorial Museum (history of the Russian Civil War), Stalingrad Panorama and boat trip on the Volga (time permitting). Day 9 Transfer to Elista (approx 5 hour journey) for two nights. Afternoon tour of Elista including visit to Kalmykia National Museum. Day 10 Morning excursion to Yashkul village for opportunity to meet Oyrat nomadic people. Return to Elista for afternoon visit to SyakyusnSyume Khurul (Buddhist temple). Day 11 Transfer to Pyatigorsk (approx 5 hour journey) for three nights. Afternoon visit to Lermontov House. Day 12 Morning tour of Pyatigorsk: Proval, Academic Gallery, Kirov Prospekt, Park Tsvetnik and Cathedral of the Saviour. Free afternoon. Day 13 Morning excursion to Essentuki: mud clinic (built in 1915), Tsanderovsky Institute of Mechanotherapy (gymnasium), Church of St Nicholas (built by Cossacks in 1826) and Essentuki Park (opportunity to taste local mineral waters). Afternoon excursion to Kislovodsk: 19th century fortress, St Nicholas Cathedral and Kislovodsk Park (monuments). Day 14 Transfer to Cheget village for ascent of Mount Cheget by cable car and mountain hike (weather permitting). Overnight in Azau. Day 15 Ascent of Mount Elbrus from Azau by cable car and snow cat (weather permitting). Afternoon: continue to Nalchik for meeting with master of Kabardian martial arts (demonstration of Adyg cold weapons) and Shalushka for meeting and dinner with musician and blacksmith (maker of traditional Kabardian instruments). Overnight in Nalchik. Day 16 Transfer to Mineralnye Vody for 1325 fight via Moscow, arriving London Heathrow 2125.

Cost of £4295 includes: return airfare, accommodation based on sharing a twin or double bedded room, breakfast, eight lunches, dinner (one packed) with water & coffee, excursions & admissions, gratuities. Not included: travel insurance, single room supplement £475. TOUR CODE: SORU21

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