Vanishing Bangkok

Lost in time on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. An elegant mansion in this century-old community evokes an era before cars and condominiums devoured the city. Bangkok’s extraordinary mixture of architectural styles combines the charm of the old with a modern skyline that is barely outclassed by New York or Dubai.

Market stall and umbrella, Chinatown. Hidden down a warren of narrow alleyways, this dimly-lit market is one of the most authentic in the city. But the modern world is encroaching fast. “I remember how we used to listen to Chinese opera out on the street. Today we only hear loud motorbikes,” says Khun Sukit, who works in a 90-year-old paper shop nearby.

Klong San district, 2018

Pom Prap Sattru Phai district, 2015

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Lost in time on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. An elegant mansion in this century-old community evokes an era before cars and condominiums devoured the city. Bangkok’s extraordinary mixture of architectural styles combines the charm of the old with a modern skyline that is barely outclassed by New York or Dubai.

Market stall and umbrella, Chinatown. Hidden down a warren of narrow alleyways, this dimly-lit market is one of the most authentic in the city. But the modern world is encroaching fast. “I remember how we used to listen to Chinese opera out on the street. Today we only hear loud motorbikes,” says Khun Sukit, who works in a 90-year-old paper shop nearby.

Klong San district, 2018

Pom Prap Sattru Phai district, 2015

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A covered food market off Sam Sen Road. Traditional street markets continue to flourish in many parts of the capital, often squeezed incongruously against modern housing developments or high-rises.

The unusual combination of old and new architecture helps to give Bangkok its unique character.

Abandoned riverside mansion, Somdet Chao Phraya Road. King Chulalongkorn is said to have visited this splendid 3-storey residence, which contains a shrine with a framed photograph of the revered monarch.

This building is one of the last of its kind along Bangkok’s waterfront.

Phra Nakhon district, 2015

Klong San district, 2016

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A covered food market off Sam Sen Road. Traditional street markets continue to flourish in many parts of the capital, often squeezed incongruously against modern housing developments or high-rises.

The unusual combination of old and new architecture helps to give Bangkok its unique character.

Abandoned riverside mansion, Somdet Chao Phraya Road. King Chulalongkorn is said to have visited this splendid 3-storey residence, which contains a shrine with a framed photograph of the revered monarch.

This building is one of the last of its kind along Bangkok’s waterfront.

Phra Nakhon district, 2015

Klong San district, 2016

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Last days on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. Overshadowed by luxury apartments, a 2-storey wooden house looks out over the changing city. At dusk, children play in the water, barely aware of the modern world so close. Eighteen months after taking this photograph I returned, but the house had been torn down and the inhabitants were gone.

The new world meets the old at Asiatique, The Riverfront. This popular night bazaar features everything from converted 19th century warehouses to restaurants, shopping arcades and a giant ferris wheel. Growing numbers of tourist attractions along the river lure well-healed visitors but threaten to displace the traditional communities that are part of Bangkok’s living history.

Thonburi district, 2014

Bang Kho Laem district, 2014

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Last days on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. Overshadowed by luxury apartments, a 2-storey wooden house looks out over the changing city. At dusk, children play in the water, barely aware of the modern world so close. Eighteen months after taking this photograph I returned, but the house had been torn down and the inhabitants were gone.

The new world meets the old at Asiatique, The Riverfront. This popular night bazaar features everything from converted 19th century warehouses to restaurants, shopping arcades and a giant ferris wheel. Growing numbers of tourist attractions along the river lure well-healed visitors but threaten to displace the traditional communities that are part of Bangkok’s living history.

Thonburi district, 2014

Bang Kho Laem district, 2014

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The crumbling façade of the East Asiatic company viewed through a web of twisted cables. Constructed around 1900, this elegant Venetian-style structure is considered one of the finest colonial buildings in the city. Today it stands empty, a reminder of Bangkok’s long history as one of the major international trading hubs in Asia.

Soi Oriental, Bang Rak district, 2014 26

A worker transports cardboard boxes along Song Wat Road in Chinatown. These exquisite Sino-Portuguese shophouses are famous for their stucco decorations of coconuts, water melons and other tropical fruits. Believed to symbolize abundance and good fortune, these fruit decorations were popular among Chinese traders who settled all over Southeast Asia.

Samphanthawong district, 2015 27

The crumbling façade of the East Asiatic company viewed through a web of twisted cables. Constructed around 1900, this elegant Venetian-style structure is considered one of the finest colonial buildings in the city. Today it stands empty, a reminder of Bangkok’s long history as one of the major international trading hubs in Asia.

Soi Oriental, Bang Rak district, 2014 26

A worker transports cardboard boxes along Song Wat Road in Chinatown. These exquisite Sino-Portuguese shophouses are famous for their stucco decorations of coconuts, water melons and other tropical fruits. Believed to symbolize abundance and good fortune, these fruit decorations were popular among Chinese traders who settled all over Southeast Asia.

Samphanthawong district, 2015 27

Mahakan Fort Community after dozens of houses were razed to make way for a public park.

Although several houses date back to the early 19th century, officials claimed this community had little historic value.

Once the government tax and excise office, now overrun by luxuriant tropical vegetation.

This building will soon be torn down, erasing another part of the city’s heritage.

Phra Nakhon district, 2017

Si Phraya Road, 2015

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Mahakan Fort Community after dozens of houses were razed to make way for a public park.

Although several houses date back to the early 19th century, officials claimed this community had little historic value.

Once the government tax and excise office, now overrun by luxuriant tropical vegetation.

This building will soon be torn down, erasing another part of the city’s heritage.

Phra Nakhon district, 2017

Si Phraya Road, 2015

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The first paved road in the city, Charoen Krung was built in 1862 after foreign residents complained about the smell of rotting animal carcasses thrown into the canals and demanded a road upon which to use their horse drawn carriages.

Today the street runs parallel to the Chao Phraya River all the way from Wat Po in the West to Bang Kho Laem in the East.

Street life, Saladaeng Road. At the start of the 20th century, this district was largely made up of paddy fields, sleepy canals and rosewood trees. In a city lurching into the modern world, it provides a rare window on the Bangkok of old still barely touched by the 21st century.

Samphanthawong district, 2015

Bang Rak district, 2014

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The first paved road in the city, Charoen Krung was built in 1862 after foreign residents complained about the smell of rotting animal carcasses thrown into the canals and demanded a road upon which to use their horse drawn carriages.

Today the street runs parallel to the Chao Phraya River all the way from Wat Po in the West to Bang Kho Laem in the East.

Street life, Saladaeng Road. At the start of the 20th century, this district was largely made up of paddy fields, sleepy canals and rosewood trees. In a city lurching into the modern world, it provides a rare window on the Bangkok of old still barely touched by the 21st century.

Samphanthawong district, 2015

Bang Rak district, 2014

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The name Talad Noi means Little Market. One of the oldest communities in Bangkok, this has been a trading centre for close to 200 years. Originally famed for its Hokkien blacksmiths, the locals now deal in second hand engine parts and gear boxes imported from as far afield as Japan and China.

The popular Khao Gaeng Jek Pui street foodstall on Mangkon Road. Locals claim this establishment serves the best curry and rice in the city. Whilst Bangkok is famous as the street-food capital of the world, city officials have banned vendors and food carts from many neighbourhoods in a bid to clean up congested roads and pavements.

Soi Phanurangsi, 2016

Pom Prap Sattru Phai district, 2017

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The name Talad Noi means Little Market. One of the oldest communities in Bangkok, this has been a trading centre for close to 200 years. Originally famed for its Hokkien blacksmiths, the locals now deal in second hand engine parts and gear boxes imported from as far afield as Japan and China.

The popular Khao Gaeng Jek Pui street foodstall on Mangkon Road. Locals claim this establishment serves the best curry and rice in the city. Whilst Bangkok is famous as the street-food capital of the world, city officials have banned vendors and food carts from many neighbourhoods in a bid to clean up congested roads and pavements.

Soi Phanurangsi, 2016

Pom Prap Sattru Phai district, 2017

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Vintage car and tyres, Soi Charoen Phanit. This narrow lane in the heart of Chinatown is filled with shops selling everything from carburetors and springs to tool boxes and plastic wheels. The community sprung up in the late 19th century after merchants built wharfs along the nearby waterfront to transport their goods.

An old chain shop on Song Wat Road. “Five years from now, there will be no more shops like this in the neighbourhood,” said the owner, who blamed the changing economy and reluctance of young people to take up manual labour.

“I am not sad. I understand. You can’t keep doing this type of work forever.”

Samphanthawong district, 2015

Talad Noi, 2015

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Vintage car and tyres, Soi Charoen Phanit. This narrow lane in the heart of Chinatown is filled with shops selling everything from carburetors and springs to tool boxes and plastic wheels. The community sprung up in the late 19th century after merchants built wharfs along the nearby waterfront to transport their goods.

An old chain shop on Song Wat Road. “Five years from now, there will be no more shops like this in the neighbourhood,” said the owner, who blamed the changing economy and reluctance of young people to take up manual labour.

“I am not sad. I understand. You can’t keep doing this type of work forever.”

Samphanthawong district, 2015

Talad Noi, 2015

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Making traditional medicine, Talad Luang Phaeng. This grinding machine is at least 50 years old. It mixes herbs and roots used to treat high blood pressure and fever. The powder is turned into paste and the tablets hand pressed and dried in the sun. ‘Before we acquired this machine, we would mix everything by hand,’ said Kamron Thong Mak, who runs the old pharmacy with his wife.

Abandoned community on the banks of the ‘Big Crocodile Canal’. Thirty years ago, Talad Ton Sai was a thriving market town.

But when the klong boats stopped coming, the community fell on hard times. ‘Almost nobody uses this canal anymore,’ said Uncle Som, 69, who runs its only barber shop. ‘I am lucky if I get one customer a day.’

Lat Krabang district, 2017

Lat Krabang district, 2017

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Making traditional medicine, Talad Luang Phaeng. This grinding machine is at least 50 years old. It mixes herbs and roots used to treat high blood pressure and fever. The powder is turned into paste and the tablets hand pressed and dried in the sun. ‘Before we acquired this machine, we would mix everything by hand,’ said Kamron Thong Mak, who runs the old pharmacy with his wife.

Abandoned community on the banks of the ‘Big Crocodile Canal’. Thirty years ago, Talad Ton Sai was a thriving market town.

But when the klong boats stopped coming, the community fell on hard times. ‘Almost nobody uses this canal anymore,’ said Uncle Som, 69, who runs its only barber shop. ‘I am lucky if I get one customer a day.’

Lat Krabang district, 2017

Lat Krabang district, 2017

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Invaded by jungle, an abandoned community surrenders to the forces of nature. For much of the 20th century this area on the west bank of the Chao Phraya was made up of old rice warehouses and naval buildings. Today the land is waiting to be redeveloped. ‘We don’t know what will happen to the neighbourhood,’ said Khun Phu, 57, who works nearby. ‘I miss the old days in the city. Life was simple.’

Overrun by tree roots, this ruined building looks like it could have been plucked out of fabled Angkor Wat in Cambodia, except that directly opposite on the far side of the Chao Phraya is a high-rise apartment block, while a vast shopping mall and entertainment complex little more than a kilometre to the east now dominates the landscape.

Klong San district, 2018

Klong San district, 2018

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Invaded by jungle, an abandoned community surrenders to the forces of nature. For much of the 20th century this area on the west bank of the Chao Phraya was made up of old rice warehouses and naval buildings. Today the land is waiting to be redeveloped. ‘We don’t know what will happen to the neighbourhood,’ said Khun Phu, 57, who works nearby. ‘I miss the old days in the city. Life was simple.’

Overrun by tree roots, this ruined building looks like it could have been plucked out of fabled Angkor Wat in Cambodia, except that directly opposite on the far side of the Chao Phraya is a high-rise apartment block, while a vast shopping mall and entertainment complex little more than a kilometre to the east now dominates the landscape.

Klong San district, 2018

Klong San district, 2018

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