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Stardust

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TA R D U S T S

THE WORK AND LIFE OF JEWELER EX TR AORDINAIRE


珠宝设计师腓德力克˙萨维太短暂的人生

THE TOO -SH ORT LIFE OF FRÉDÉRIC Z A AV Y, JE WELER

2011 年七月底,葡萄牙孔波尔塔

Comporta, Portugal, late July 2011

微风吹动海面,碎浪规律地涌上沙滩、迎向我们。我们就在那里,就在浩瀚无垠的大西洋岸 边,沙丘后面的葡式庄园里。经由他的细心安排,他的旧识亲友及新交知己聚集,每一个人

从自己的视角出发,总合他的创作和人生。大家围绕他、陪伴他,赞扬他。宾客包括:一对美 国摄影家伴侣(几年来,他们一直在拍摄、纪录他的作品和生活并建文件,为完成一本书准 备着)、一位前来为他完成肖像画的西班牙画家与我。我将陪伴着他,一天又一天,和他一

起写出他构思的书。此外,还有他年幼的儿子米兰、他敬爱如母的大姊玛汀、大姊夫艾尔维 及其它朋友,最后再加上他本人:腓德力克˙萨维。

这是夏日假期最幸福的时光。孔波尔塔的沙地上有几幢矮房,那是沐浴在海风中的朴实乐 土。我们穿着白色的短衣短裤,享用他招待我们的各式烤鱼及带壳海鲜,都是他精心挑选 的上等货。他还亲自开着电动车载我们到沙丘兜风,欢乐的模样就像小孩在玩玩具。但是

宾客已模糊感受到,那几天幸福洋溢的日子将成绝响。是宽限期,是临终的阶段,是生命最 后的恩赐。在清新的破晓时分,我们谈的话题内容异于平时,这些将会铭刻在我们记忆中

的深处,那几天生活中的点点滴滴也是,都是他深植我们心中的鲜活遗嘱。一个月后,腓德 力克˙萨维在亲人的陪伴下,于巴黎里耳街的自宅中与世长辞。三年来,他受癌症折磨,始 终坚信自己可以克服难关。

这位高品味、对生命充满热情的人在四十六岁时逝世,大家原本看好他将成为法国一位伟

大的珠宝设计师,享有大师的荣耀。他知道自己来日无多,仍奋力成为该行业的顶尖人物。 他来去匆匆,是耀眼的流星,生前热爱宝石,发挥想象力,创造出珍稀的珠宝。离世前的十 五年里,他马不停蹄地设计监制,死后虽然仍有作品尚未完成,但在收藏家—少数拥有他

作品的幸运者心里,他的地位已经不同凡响。透过本书,在欣赏约翰˙泰勒及黛安娜˙杜 伯乐那令人炫目的摄影作品前,我们想要用几页文字呈现腓德力克˙萨维生命中的两种

紧密连结的面向,一面是一位年轻冒险家传奇甚至跨入神秘主义的一生,另一面是追求绚

The steady whisper of the surf brushing the beach reached our ears on the breeze. There we were in that Portuguese hacienda, behind the dunes on the shore of the vast Atlantic, members of his tribe of recent acquaintances whom he had brought together to talk to him, each in our way, about his work and his life, to surround him and praise him as he deserved: the pair of American photographers who had spent the last year archiving his work and lifestyle in preparation for producing a book on his life; the Spanish artist who had just completed his portrait; me to help him set down, as the days passed, the book writing itself within him; his young son, Milan; his elder sister, Martine, whom he cherished like a second mother, and her husband, Hervé, among other friends. And himself, of course, Frédéric Zaavy. It was summer, and Comporta, a collection of a few low houses built on the sand, was a simple paradise bathed by the sea breeze. We were dressed in white, simply. And, behind the pleasure we took in lunching on grilled fish and shellfish of every description that he provided for us with an unfailing

烂、名誉及永恒的艺术家令人惊艳的创作。这是本书的心愿。

sense of the best, or during rides on the dunes in the electric car that he drove as if it were a child’s

促成这本书面世的幕后推手是一位亚洲女士。这位名为莉萨˙陈的女士曾和萨维相爱,记

death. In extremis. Like the sometimes strange conversations we had in the cool dawn air, they

忆中珍藏着他的点点滴滴。若无她的鼎力赞助,这本书是不可能出版的。目前她正精心筹

划腓德力克˙萨维的作品集,那么且让拙作成为那一场重生的前奏曲吧!腓德力克˙萨维 虽已远离我们,很幸运地,因为有莉萨˙陈,他的梦想能够持续。

腓德力克˙萨维的生命太短暂了,无法以宁静的大江大河比喻。他的生命是一场狂热的探 索,壮阔、灿烂、真实。他将一生职志寄托于珠宝工艺。

14

toy, we all sensed, somehow, that these few days would be his last. Days of grace. On the verge of are engraved in our memories as his living testament. A month later in Paris, surrounded by those closest to him, Frédéric Zaavy died in his apartment on the Rue de Lille of a cancer that had dogged him for three years, an illness that, up until his last hours, he had persuaded himself he could beat. This passionate dandy, struck down at the age of forty-six, was poised to become a great French jeweler, on the threshold of certain glory. He wanted to be the greatest and knew he was living on borrowed time. This man in a hurry—this human meteor, lover of precious stones, and creator of

15


珠宝设计师腓德力克˙萨维太短暂的人生

THE TOO -SH ORT LIFE OF FRÉDÉRIC Z A AV Y, JE WELER

2011 年七月底,葡萄牙孔波尔塔

Comporta, Portugal, late July 2011

微风吹动海面,碎浪规律地涌上沙滩、迎向我们。我们就在那里,就在浩瀚无垠的大西洋岸 边,沙丘后面的葡式庄园里。经由他的细心安排,他的旧识亲友及新交知己聚集,每一个人

从自己的视角出发,总合他的创作和人生。大家围绕他、陪伴他,赞扬他。宾客包括:一对美 国摄影家伴侣(几年来,他们一直在拍摄、纪录他的作品和生活并建文件,为完成一本书准 备着)、一位前来为他完成肖像画的西班牙画家与我。我将陪伴着他,一天又一天,和他一

起写出他构思的书。此外,还有他年幼的儿子米兰、他敬爱如母的大姊玛汀、大姊夫艾尔维 及其它朋友,最后再加上他本人:腓德力克˙萨维。

这是夏日假期最幸福的时光。孔波尔塔的沙地上有几幢矮房,那是沐浴在海风中的朴实乐 土。我们穿着白色的短衣短裤,享用他招待我们的各式烤鱼及带壳海鲜,都是他精心挑选 的上等货。他还亲自开着电动车载我们到沙丘兜风,欢乐的模样就像小孩在玩玩具。但是

宾客已模糊感受到,那几天幸福洋溢的日子将成绝响。是宽限期,是临终的阶段,是生命最 后的恩赐。在清新的破晓时分,我们谈的话题内容异于平时,这些将会铭刻在我们记忆中

的深处,那几天生活中的点点滴滴也是,都是他深植我们心中的鲜活遗嘱。一个月后,腓德 力克˙萨维在亲人的陪伴下,于巴黎里耳街的自宅中与世长辞。三年来,他受癌症折磨,始 终坚信自己可以克服难关。

这位高品味、对生命充满热情的人在四十六岁时逝世,大家原本看好他将成为法国一位伟

大的珠宝设计师,享有大师的荣耀。他知道自己来日无多,仍奋力成为该行业的顶尖人物。 他来去匆匆,是耀眼的流星,生前热爱宝石,发挥想象力,创造出珍稀的珠宝。离世前的十 五年里,他马不停蹄地设计监制,死后虽然仍有作品尚未完成,但在收藏家—少数拥有他

作品的幸运者心里,他的地位已经不同凡响。透过本书,在欣赏约翰˙泰勒及黛安娜˙杜 伯乐那令人炫目的摄影作品前,我们想要用几页文字呈现腓德力克˙萨维生命中的两种

紧密连结的面向,一面是一位年轻冒险家传奇甚至跨入神秘主义的一生,另一面是追求绚

The steady whisper of the surf brushing the beach reached our ears on the breeze. There we were in that Portuguese hacienda, behind the dunes on the shore of the vast Atlantic, members of his tribe of recent acquaintances whom he had brought together to talk to him, each in our way, about his work and his life, to surround him and praise him as he deserved: the pair of American photographers who had spent the last year archiving his work and lifestyle in preparation for producing a book on his life; the Spanish artist who had just completed his portrait; me to help him set down, as the days passed, the book writing itself within him; his young son, Milan; his elder sister, Martine, whom he cherished like a second mother, and her husband, Hervé, among other friends. And himself, of course, Frédéric Zaavy. It was summer, and Comporta, a collection of a few low houses built on the sand, was a simple paradise bathed by the sea breeze. We were dressed in white, simply. And, behind the pleasure we took in lunching on grilled fish and shellfish of every description that he provided for us with an unfailing

烂、名誉及永恒的艺术家令人惊艳的创作。这是本书的心愿。

sense of the best, or during rides on the dunes in the electric car that he drove as if it were a child’s

促成这本书面世的幕后推手是一位亚洲女士。这位名为莉萨˙陈的女士曾和萨维相爱,记

death. In extremis. Like the sometimes strange conversations we had in the cool dawn air, they

忆中珍藏着他的点点滴滴。若无她的鼎力赞助,这本书是不可能出版的。目前她正精心筹

划腓德力克˙萨维的作品集,那么且让拙作成为那一场重生的前奏曲吧!腓德力克˙萨维 虽已远离我们,很幸运地,因为有莉萨˙陈,他的梦想能够持续。

腓德力克˙萨维的生命太短暂了,无法以宁静的大江大河比喻。他的生命是一场狂热的探 索,壮阔、灿烂、真实。他将一生职志寄托于珠宝工艺。

14

toy, we all sensed, somehow, that these few days would be his last. Days of grace. On the verge of are engraved in our memories as his living testament. A month later in Paris, surrounded by those closest to him, Frédéric Zaavy died in his apartment on the Rue de Lille of a cancer that had dogged him for three years, an illness that, up until his last hours, he had persuaded himself he could beat. This passionate dandy, struck down at the age of forty-six, was poised to become a great French jeweler, on the threshold of certain glory. He wanted to be the greatest and knew he was living on borrowed time. This man in a hurry—this human meteor, lover of precious stones, and creator of

15


"It is what we see in our imagination, in our inner self that counts. A jewel becomes an ocean of stars . . . " —Frédéric Zaavy


"It is what we see in our imagination, in our inner self that counts. A jewel becomes an ocean of stars . . . " —Frédéric Zaavy


Le gend


Le gend


Iris


Iris


TULIP BROOCH | 2006–2010

OPAL LEGEND RING | 2011

AMAZON BRACELET | 2005

IRIS BRACELET | 2011

RADIANT NECKLACE | 2003

Tulip brooch – blue sapphire (2006)

Center stone : white opal

diamond, rose cut diamond, gold and silver

Center stone: vivid yellow diamond, purple

radiant cut diamond, platinum and gold

Center stone: oval diamond

diamond, spessartite, paraiba, tsavorite and

diamond

white diamond, blue sapphire, gold and silver

demantoid

yellow diamond, white diamond, sphene, deman-

NYMPHÉA BRACELET | 2005 Text tk

toid, tsavorite, palladium, gold and silver Tulip brooch – pink diamond (2010) Center stone: pink diamond purple sapphire, lavender spinel, moonstone, purple diamond, white diamond and pink gold Tulip brooch – ruby (2006) Center stone: oval diamond diamond, ruby, pink sapphire, purple sapphire, spinel, gold and silver

LITTLE POLAR BEAR BROOCH | 2003

BLUE VAGABOND RING | 2004

BAOBAB RING | 2002

AMAZON RING | 2004

gold and silver

Center stone: blue sapphire sapphire, hauyne, diamond, palladium, gold and silver

Center stone: spinel diamond and gold

white diamond, rose cut diamond, gold and silver

BLUE ANGEL RING | 2006–2010

BLOSSOM RING | 2006

VAGABOND RING | 2005

COQUELICOT NECKLACE | 2000

GINGKO BROOCH | 2006

Center stone: blue diamond

Text tk

Center stone: blue sapphire

white oval diamond, white diamond, natural ruby, platinum and gold

white diamond, yellow diamond, demantoid, tsavorite, gold and silver

opal, diamond, ruby, demantoid, crystal, platinum,

blue sapphire, moonstone, paraiba, white opal,

diamond, blue sapphire, pink sapphire, violet

diamond, aquamarine and emerald

sapphire, palladium and gold

FREDERIC RING | 2002 Center stone: blue sapphire platinum and gold

FLOWER BROOCH LIMITED EDITION | 2000 pink sapphire, tsavorite, diamond and yellow diamond


TULIP BROOCH | 2006–2010

OPAL LEGEND RING | 2011

AMAZON BRACELET | 2005

IRIS BRACELET | 2011

RADIANT NECKLACE | 2003

Tulip brooch – blue sapphire (2006)

Center stone : white opal

diamond, rose cut diamond, gold and silver

Center stone: vivid yellow diamond, purple

radiant cut diamond, platinum and gold

Center stone: oval diamond

diamond, spessartite, paraiba, tsavorite and

diamond

white diamond, blue sapphire, gold and silver

demantoid

yellow diamond, white diamond, sphene, deman-

NYMPHÉA BRACELET | 2005 Text tk

toid, tsavorite, palladium, gold and silver Tulip brooch – pink diamond (2010) Center stone: pink diamond purple sapphire, lavender spinel, moonstone, purple diamond, white diamond and pink gold Tulip brooch – ruby (2006) Center stone: oval diamond diamond, ruby, pink sapphire, purple sapphire, spinel, gold and silver

LITTLE POLAR BEAR BROOCH | 2003

BLUE VAGABOND RING | 2004

BAOBAB RING | 2002

AMAZON RING | 2004

gold and silver

Center stone: blue sapphire sapphire, hauyne, diamond, palladium, gold and silver

Center stone: spinel diamond and gold

white diamond, rose cut diamond, gold and silver

BLUE ANGEL RING | 2006–2010

BLOSSOM RING | 2006

VAGABOND RING | 2005

COQUELICOT NECKLACE | 2000

GINGKO BROOCH | 2006

Center stone: blue diamond

Text tk

Center stone: blue sapphire

white oval diamond, white diamond, natural ruby, platinum and gold

white diamond, yellow diamond, demantoid, tsavorite, gold and silver

opal, diamond, ruby, demantoid, crystal, platinum,

blue sapphire, moonstone, paraiba, white opal,

diamond, blue sapphire, pink sapphire, violet

diamond, aquamarine and emerald

sapphire, palladium and gold

FREDERIC RING | 2002 Center stone: blue sapphire platinum and gold

FLOWER BROOCH LIMITED EDITION | 2000 pink sapphire, tsavorite, diamond and yellow diamond


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