Paachakam

paachakam h er i t ag e c u i s i n e o f k eral a

SABITA RADHAKRISHNA P hoto g raphs by S u m anth K u m ar Illu stratio ns by N u pu r P anem ang lo r

paachakam h er i t ag e c u i s i n e o f k eral a

SABITA RADHAKRISHNA P hoto g raphs by S u m anth K u m ar Illu stratio ns by N u pu r P anem ang lo r

contents God's Own Country

9

Basic Tips

14

Basic Utensils

16

Glossary

18

1. Nairs

23

2. Syrian Christians

49

3. North Malabar Thiyas

73

4. Moplahs

105

5. Cochin Jews

124

6. Nambuthiris & Poduvals

137

7. Classic Favourites

159

8. Sadya

194

9. Index of Recipes

198

contents God's Own Country

9

Basic Tips

14

Basic Utensils

16

Glossary

18

1. Nairs

23

2. Syrian Christians

49

3. North Malabar Thiyas

73

4. Moplahs

105

5. Cochin Jews

124

6. Nambuthiris & Poduvals

137

7. Classic Favourites

159

8. Sadya

194

9. Index of Recipes

198

Kasaragod

KARNATAKA Kannur

MAHE

Wayanad

(Puducherry)

kerala: god’s own country

Kozhikode

Malappuram N

Palakkad

TAMIL NADU

Thrissur

Ernakulam Idukki

Arabian Sea Kottayam

Alappuzha Pathanamthitta

Kollam

Thiruvananthapuram

The story of the birth of Kerala lies in the legend of Lord Parasuram, the sixth of the ten avatars of Lord Vishnu, who threw his bloodstained axe into the Arabian Sea and pulled out the bountiful land between Gokarna and Kanyakumari – Kerala. Soon, news of this rich 600-kilometer stretch of sandy beaches dotted with swaying palms on the tropical Malabar Coast spread and people from all around arrived in search of wealth, bringing with them new cultures, traditions, religions and flavours that melded together into new practices and identities that made each community unique and yet a wholesome one.

Bordered by Karnataka in the north and northeast, Tamil Nadu in the east and south and the Lakshadweep Sea in the west, Kerala today is a prominent tourist destination in India. The Western Ghats house tea, coffee and spice plantations. The valleys are resplendent with farms of pepper and natural rubber contributes significantly to the total national output. In agriculture, coconut, tea, coffee, cashew and spices are important. More than a million people in the state are dependent on the fishery industry. But the region has been most prominently known as a spice exporter, since as early as 3000 BCE. It was this spice trade that attracted Portuguese traders to Kerala in the fifteenth century and paved the way for the European colonization of India. Following this, Kerala has played host to travellers and traders from across the world, including the Greeks,

Kasaragod

KARNATAKA Kannur

MAHE

Wayanad

(Puducherry)

kerala: god’s own country

Kozhikode

Malappuram N

Palakkad

TAMIL NADU

Thrissur

Ernakulam Idukki

Arabian Sea Kottayam

Alappuzha Pathanamthitta

Kollam

Thiruvananthapuram

The story of the birth of Kerala lies in the legend of Lord Parasuram, the sixth of the ten avatars of Lord Vishnu, who threw his bloodstained axe into the Arabian Sea and pulled out the bountiful land between Gokarna and Kanyakumari – Kerala. Soon, news of this rich 600-kilometer stretch of sandy beaches dotted with swaying palms on the tropical Malabar Coast spread and people from all around arrived in search of wealth, bringing with them new cultures, traditions, religions and flavours that melded together into new practices and identities that made each community unique and yet a wholesome one.

Bordered by Karnataka in the north and northeast, Tamil Nadu in the east and south and the Lakshadweep Sea in the west, Kerala today is a prominent tourist destination in India. The Western Ghats house tea, coffee and spice plantations. The valleys are resplendent with farms of pepper and natural rubber contributes significantly to the total national output. In agriculture, coconut, tea, coffee, cashew and spices are important. More than a million people in the state are dependent on the fishery industry. But the region has been most prominently known as a spice exporter, since as early as 3000 BCE. It was this spice trade that attracted Portuguese traders to Kerala in the fifteenth century and paved the way for the European colonization of India. Following this, Kerala has played host to travellers and traders from across the world, including the Greeks,

Romans, Arabs, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch, French and the British – all of whom have left their imprint on this land in some form or the other – architecture, literature and cuisine to recount a few.

From within the country, too, Kerala has served as a home to a large population of migrants, who, over the years, have intermarried and, just as others from around the world, have left a prominent mark in the state’s thriving culture.

Trichur, river fish is eaten and cooked with sour kokum fruit rind or kodam pulli. Meen pattichadu or deep-fried sardines are consumed frequently. Jaggery is widely used and cooked with jackfruit and cardamom (chakka varattiyathu). The Kerala roti is podi patthiri, prepared from a boiled mash of rice cooked on a tawa, or a thicker ari patthiri made of parboiled rice or a nai patthiri, which is like a puri made of rice flour with coconut.

Today, Kerala boasts of a diverse group of communities, the culinary habits of each displaying its own unique character, although almost every dish hints of a mix of coconut and spices. The main spices used in the state are the locally grown cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, green and red peppers, cloves, garlic, cumin seeds, coriander, turmeric etc. Because of the profusion of coconut groves, coconuts and coconut oil are generously used. Seasonal fruits like mango, jackfruit, banana and more are cooked with in several forms. Then there are preparations that bring communities together and are shared amongst them, like the idi appam – steamed rice noodles eaten with coconut milk or chicken curry. Both in Kottayam and

The medium of cooking is always pure coconut oil. Fish is a must for non-vegetarians. Curry leaves are used in plenty, and the cuisine is marked by the absence of heavy tempering as compared to other cuisines from the South. The flavours of Kerala are distinct, and when these coconut gratings are fried to a light brown or dark brown as the recipe demands, the richness of the gravy is exceptionally unique.

In the following pages, I have featured recipes from five dominant communities. I had to be selective as the food differs dramatically from region to sects and castes.

Romans, Arabs, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch, French and the British – all of whom have left their imprint on this land in some form or the other – architecture, literature and cuisine to recount a few.

From within the country, too, Kerala has served as a home to a large population of migrants, who, over the years, have intermarried and, just as others from around the world, have left a prominent mark in the state’s thriving culture.

Trichur, river fish is eaten and cooked with sour kokum fruit rind or kodam pulli. Meen pattichadu or deep-fried sardines are consumed frequently. Jaggery is widely used and cooked with jackfruit and cardamom (chakka varattiyathu). The Kerala roti is podi patthiri, prepared from a boiled mash of rice cooked on a tawa, or a thicker ari patthiri made of parboiled rice or a nai patthiri, which is like a puri made of rice flour with coconut.

Today, Kerala boasts of a diverse group of communities, the culinary habits of each displaying its own unique character, although almost every dish hints of a mix of coconut and spices. The main spices used in the state are the locally grown cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, green and red peppers, cloves, garlic, cumin seeds, coriander, turmeric etc. Because of the profusion of coconut groves, coconuts and coconut oil are generously used. Seasonal fruits like mango, jackfruit, banana and more are cooked with in several forms. Then there are preparations that bring communities together and are shared amongst them, like the idi appam – steamed rice noodles eaten with coconut milk or chicken curry. Both in Kottayam and

The medium of cooking is always pure coconut oil. Fish is a must for non-vegetarians. Curry leaves are used in plenty, and the cuisine is marked by the absence of heavy tempering as compared to other cuisines from the South. The flavours of Kerala are distinct, and when these coconut gratings are fried to a light brown or dark brown as the recipe demands, the richness of the gravy is exceptionally unique.

In the following pages, I have featured recipes from five dominant communities. I had to be selective as the food differs dramatically from region to sects and castes.

ba s ic ut e n si l s

traditional iddiappam maker

modern iddiappam maker

traditional puttu maker

modern puttu maker

bell metal uruli

steel utensil

traditional coconut scraper

modern coconut scraper

traditional earthen pot

steel utensil

traditional appam chatti

modern appam chatti

16 | basic utensils

basic utensils | 17

ba s ic ut e n si l s

traditional iddiappam maker

modern iddiappam maker

traditional puttu maker

modern puttu maker

bell metal uruli

steel utensil

traditional coconut scraper

modern coconut scraper

traditional earthen pot

steel utensil

traditional appam chatti

modern appam chatti

16 | basic utensils

basic utensils | 17

S E RV E S 4

mam p a zha p ul i s e r i Ripe Mango in Yoghurt Coconut Gravy A curry made with ripe mangoes and curds. The sweetness and sour taste of the fruit melds with the tartness of curds imparting an unusual flavour, and the touch of Kashmiri chilli powder enhances the taste.

Ingredients

Method

4 small ripe mangoes or 2 large mangoes (see note) 2 green chillies, slit lengthwise 1 tsp turmeric (haldi), powder 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli (Kashmiri lal mirch) powder 1 tsp salt, or to taste 1 cup (240 g) sour yoghurt (dahi) ½ cup (40 g) fresh coconut (nariyal), grated 1 tsp cumin seeds (jeera) 1 marble-size piece jaggery (gur)

1. To make the mango curry: Mash the mango pieces slightly, only so the juice comes out. Place them along with the green chillies, turmeric, chilli powder, and salt in a saucepan. Add enough water to cover the ingredients. Place the pan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the mangoes are well cooked and soft.

Tempering 1 Tbsp (15 ml) coconut oil or any oil of your choice 1 tsp mustard seeds (rai) ½ tsp fenugreek seeds (methi dana) 1 dried red chilli (sookhi lal mirch) 1 sprig curry leaves (kadhi patta)

2. In a food processor or blender, combine the yoghurt, coconut, and cumin seeds. Grind to a very fine paste.

3. Add this paste to the mango curry. Stir to combine.

Add more water to gain sauce-like consistency.

4. Add the jaggery to balance the sweetness and sourness of the curry. Stir continuously and let the gravy simmer for 1 minute.

5. To make the tempering: In a small pan over medium heat, heat the coconut oil. Add the mustard seeds and fenugreek seeds. Cook until the seeds begin to crackle.

6. Add the dried red chilli and curry leaves. Pour the tempering over the mango curry.

Note: If using small mangoes, peel and cook whole. If using large mangoes, cut them into pieces. The taste of this curry will depend on the flavour of the mangoes. In Kerala, a small variety of delicious nattu manga (native mangoes) are used for this curry.

26 | nairs

S E RV E S 4

mam p a zha p ul i s e r i Ripe Mango in Yoghurt Coconut Gravy A curry made with ripe mangoes and curds. The sweetness and sour taste of the fruit melds with the tartness of curds imparting an unusual flavour, and the touch of Kashmiri chilli powder enhances the taste.

Ingredients

Method

4 small ripe mangoes or 2 large mangoes (see note) 2 green chillies, slit lengthwise 1 tsp turmeric (haldi), powder 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli (Kashmiri lal mirch) powder 1 tsp salt, or to taste 1 cup (240 g) sour yoghurt (dahi) ½ cup (40 g) fresh coconut (nariyal), grated 1 tsp cumin seeds (jeera) 1 marble-size piece jaggery (gur)

1. To make the mango curry: Mash the mango pieces slightly, only so the juice comes out. Place them along with the green chillies, turmeric, chilli powder, and salt in a saucepan. Add enough water to cover the ingredients. Place the pan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the mangoes are well cooked and soft.

Tempering 1 Tbsp (15 ml) coconut oil or any oil of your choice 1 tsp mustard seeds (rai) ½ tsp fenugreek seeds (methi dana) 1 dried red chilli (sookhi lal mirch) 1 sprig curry leaves (kadhi patta)

2. In a food processor or blender, combine the yoghurt, coconut, and cumin seeds. Grind to a very fine paste.

3. Add this paste to the mango curry. Stir to combine.

Add more water to gain sauce-like consistency.

4. Add the jaggery to balance the sweetness and sourness of the curry. Stir continuously and let the gravy simmer for 1 minute.

5. To make the tempering: In a small pan over medium heat, heat the coconut oil. Add the mustard seeds and fenugreek seeds. Cook until the seeds begin to crackle.

6. Add the dried red chilli and curry leaves. Pour the tempering over the mango curry.

Note: If using small mangoes, peel and cook whole. If using large mangoes, cut them into pieces. The taste of this curry will depend on the flavour of the mangoes. In Kerala, a small variety of delicious nattu manga (native mangoes) are used for this curry.

26 | nairs

MAKES 2 CUPS

chakka varattiyathu Jackfruit Preserve Made in bulk during season and preserved, this is used for making payasam (page 45) and kumbilappam (page 33).

Ingredients 2 cups (330 g) (small pieces) ripe seeded jackfruit (kathal), chopped 1½ cups (360 ml) water 1 cup (336 g) jaggery (gur) 4-5 Tbsp (56 to 70 g) ghee

Method 1

Method 2

1. Pressure cook the jackfruit pieces with 1 cup (240 ml) of water for 15 minutes.

1. In a food processor or blender, purée the jackfruit pieces.

2. In a small saucepan, melt the jaggery with ½ cup (120 ml) of water. Strain the syrup to filter out the impurities.

2. In a small saucepan, melt the jaggery with ½ cup (120 ml) of water. Strain the syrup to filter out the impurities.

3. Using a ladle, mash the cooked jackfruit pieces in the cooker. Transfer the mashed fruit into a widemouth, heavy-bottomed vessel or the traditional bell metal uruli. Place the vessel over high heat.

3. In a wide-mouth, heavy-bottomed vessel or a bell metal uruli, combine the jackfruit and jaggery syrup.

4. Stir in the jaggery syrup. Cook, stirring continuously, until the water evaporates. Taste and add more jaggery, if needed, depending on the sweetness of the jackfruit and quality of the jaggery.

Note: Using this method will make the mixture splutter, so take care while stirring. If you prefer a very smooth texture, use this method.

5. Reduce the heat to low. Continue cooking and stirring. Little by little, add the ghee until the mixture turns dark brown in colour and starts pulling away from the sides of the vessel.

Note: A pinch of ground cardamom and ¼ tsp of dry ginger (sonth) may be added (optional).

30 | nairs

4. Continue with steps 4 and 5 as in the first method

MAKES 2 CUPS

chakka varattiyathu Jackfruit Preserve Made in bulk during season and preserved, this is used for making payasam (page 45) and kumbilappam (page 33).

Ingredients 2 cups (330 g) (small pieces) ripe seeded jackfruit (kathal), chopped 1½ cups (360 ml) water 1 cup (336 g) jaggery (gur) 4-5 Tbsp (56 to 70 g) ghee

Method 1

Method 2

1. Pressure cook the jackfruit pieces with 1 cup (240 ml) of water for 15 minutes.

1. In a food processor or blender, purée the jackfruit pieces.

2. In a small saucepan, melt the jaggery with ½ cup (120 ml) of water. Strain the syrup to filter out the impurities.

2. In a small saucepan, melt the jaggery with ½ cup (120 ml) of water. Strain the syrup to filter out the impurities.

3. Using a ladle, mash the cooked jackfruit pieces in the cooker. Transfer the mashed fruit into a widemouth, heavy-bottomed vessel or the traditional bell metal uruli. Place the vessel over high heat.

3. In a wide-mouth, heavy-bottomed vessel or a bell metal uruli, combine the jackfruit and jaggery syrup.

4. Stir in the jaggery syrup. Cook, stirring continuously, until the water evaporates. Taste and add more jaggery, if needed, depending on the sweetness of the jackfruit and quality of the jaggery.

Note: Using this method will make the mixture splutter, so take care while stirring. If you prefer a very smooth texture, use this method.

5. Reduce the heat to low. Continue cooking and stirring. Little by little, add the ghee until the mixture turns dark brown in colour and starts pulling away from the sides of the vessel.

Note: A pinch of ground cardamom and ¼ tsp of dry ginger (sonth) may be added (optional).

30 | nairs

4. Continue with steps 4 and 5 as in the first method

syrian ch rist ian s There are three major religious groups in Kerala – the Christians, the Hindus, and the Muslims. The Christians are presently the minority, with their population count to about 6.07 million according to the 2001 Census.

Also called the Nasranis, they are a community of mercantile traders and agriculturists. Many of them own large estates where rubber, spices, and cash crops are cultivated. They are landed gentry, professional money lenders, financiers, and have made their mark in many fields such as politics, media, literature, business, arts, etc. The Nasrani society is strongly patriarchal.

Essentially non-vegetarian, the Syrian Christians eat meat anytime, starting with their breakfast. Short red rice and tapioca are a must almost every day.

The use of kodam puli, with its tangy flavour, makes the curries stand out.

The kachiamoru, drunk every day if possible, or eaten with rice, is like flavoured buttermilk, delicious when had ice cold. It is served as a midmorning snack along with a bowl of kanji. Beef is relished, so is mutton.

Fresh fish is never to be missed – the favourites being seer or king fish and the pearl spot fish or karimeen, which is cooked in a coconut milk base and tempered with curry leaves using coconut oil. The mud meen chatti enhances the flavour of the fish curry, especially when cooked on slow moderate heat, with the spices being added at different times during the cooking process.

In conventional homes, meals are still cooked on wood fires to impart a smoky flavour, and spices are ground on stone. Modern homes are equipped with gadgets, though old-timers with refined taste buds would not agree.

The bell metal, uruli, ideal for making payasams and once discarded as impractical, has returned to kitchens, presumably to stay for a long time.

syrian ch rist ian s There are three major religious groups in Kerala – the Christians, the Hindus, and the Muslims. The Christians are presently the minority, with their population count to about 6.07 million according to the 2001 Census.

Also called the Nasranis, they are a community of mercantile traders and agriculturists. Many of them own large estates where rubber, spices, and cash crops are cultivated. They are landed gentry, professional money lenders, financiers, and have made their mark in many fields such as politics, media, literature, business, arts, etc. The Nasrani society is strongly patriarchal.

Essentially non-vegetarian, the Syrian Christians eat meat anytime, starting with their breakfast. Short red rice and tapioca are a must almost every day.

The use of kodam puli, with its tangy flavour, makes the curries stand out.

The kachiamoru, drunk every day if possible, or eaten with rice, is like flavoured buttermilk, delicious when had ice cold. It is served as a midmorning snack along with a bowl of kanji. Beef is relished, so is mutton.

Fresh fish is never to be missed – the favourites being seer or king fish and the pearl spot fish or karimeen, which is cooked in a coconut milk base and tempered with curry leaves using coconut oil. The mud meen chatti enhances the flavour of the fish curry, especially when cooked on slow moderate heat, with the spices being added at different times during the cooking process.

In conventional homes, meals are still cooked on wood fires to impart a smoky flavour, and spices are ground on stone. Modern homes are equipped with gadgets, though old-timers with refined taste buds would not agree.

The bell metal, uruli, ideal for making payasams and once discarded as impractical, has returned to kitchens, presumably to stay for a long time.