Beth Bernstein Sonia Esther Soltani
JEWELRY CREATORS Dynamic Duos and Generational Gems
Contents Foreword Introduction by Beth Bernstein Introduction by Sonia Esther Soltani
6 8 10
Dynamic Duos Artëmer Auroro Borgioni Coomi Jane Taylor Lionheart Lord Jewelry Monica Rich Kosann NeverNoT OX Sethi Couture Single Stone Sorellina Tap by Todd Pownell Walters Faith
14 20 26 32 38 40 44 48 54 58 60 66 72 78 80
Generational Gems
Previous page: Confetti Heart Pendant by Sethi Couture. 18k necklace set with natural multicolor diamonds. Opposite page: Cirque Square Stacking Bands Ring Totem Pole by Jane Taylor in 14k gold with various colored gemstones, diamonds and white topaz.
Jade Trau Julius Klein Diamonds LALAoUNIS Nadine Aysoy Omi Gems/Omi Privé Rahaminov Diamonds Selim Mouzannar
88 94 98 104 110 116 120
Designer Biographies Author Biographies Acknowledgments Photo Credits
126 172 174 175
Contents Foreword Introduction by Beth Bernstein Introduction by Sonia Esther Soltani
6 8 10
Dynamic Duos Artëmer Auroro Borgioni Coomi Jane Taylor Lionheart Lord Jewelry Monica Rich Kosann NeverNoT OX Sethi Couture Single Stone Sorellina Tap by Todd Pownell Walters Faith
14 20 26 32 38 40 44 48 54 58 60 66 72 78 80
Generational Gems
Previous page: Confetti Heart Pendant by Sethi Couture. 18k necklace set with natural multicolor diamonds. Opposite page: Cirque Square Stacking Bands Ring Totem Pole by Jane Taylor in 14k gold with various colored gemstones, diamonds and white topaz.
Jade Trau Julius Klein Diamonds LALAoUNIS Nadine Aysoy Omi Gems/Omi Privé Rahaminov Diamonds Selim Mouzannar
88 94 98 104 110 116 120
Designer Biographies Author Biographies Acknowledgments Photo Credits
126 172 174 175
ARTËMER
Tomer Michaelin & Tanya Michaelin Relationship: Husband and wife How did the two of you meet? We met at the art academy in Jerusalem. Tomer was majoring in jewelry design, and I majored in fine art. At first, we were just friends, for years. We had a lot in common and could talk and laugh for hours on end. We fell in love long before we even consciously realized it. But once we crossed that bridge, an incredible abundance of wonderful things happened in our lives. – Tanya
“We share a great friendship and a beautiful marriage. Together, we have built a family and established a jewelry brand. We also share hobbies, chores, dreams, ideas... pretty much everything in our lives and work.” – Tomer
14
Opposite page: Floe Unisex Diamond Engagement Ring. 18k gold ring set with a 2.01ct diamond.
JEWELRY CREATORS
This page: Above: Yin Yang Ring in 18k gold with novelty cut blue sapphire and novelty modified brilliant diamond. Below: Saturn Moons Ring. 18k gold ring set with blue sapphires and diamond baguettes.
Did you both start your careers in jewelry? Tomer was in the jewelry field from the very beginning. He has a BA in jewelry design and never strayed away from the industry. He has an abundance of technical knowledge and experience, and knows how to work with gold, stone setting, wax carving and 3D design. I think this is a huge advantage when the designer knows the ins and outs of the craft, because every technical decision is also a design-related decision. – Tanya What is it you love about being a jewelry designer? For me, jewelry design embodies education, profession, hobby, inspiration, dreams, and sometimes even leisure— all of this exists there for me and I love that. – Tomer What is your design process? Sometimes, a design begins with a stone—its shape, shade, or cut inspires the design. But more often, I have an idea and draw many sketches of the same idea in different ways and variations. I stop when I feel that I have got it and when I’ve placed the idea in the right form. Then Tomer and I choose one or two raw designs and start developing them into a piece of jewelry. – Tanya
15
DYNAMIC DUOS
ARTËMER
Tomer Michaelin & Tanya Michaelin Relationship: Husband and wife How did the two of you meet? We met at the art academy in Jerusalem. Tomer was majoring in jewelry design, and I majored in fine art. At first, we were just friends, for years. We had a lot in common and could talk and laugh for hours on end. We fell in love long before we even consciously realized it. But once we crossed that bridge, an incredible abundance of wonderful things happened in our lives. – Tanya
“We share a great friendship and a beautiful marriage. Together, we have built a family and established a jewelry brand. We also share hobbies, chores, dreams, ideas... pretty much everything in our lives and work.” – Tomer
14
Opposite page: Floe Unisex Diamond Engagement Ring. 18k gold ring set with a 2.01ct diamond.
JEWELRY CREATORS
This page: Above: Yin Yang Ring in 18k gold with novelty cut blue sapphire and novelty modified brilliant diamond. Below: Saturn Moons Ring. 18k gold ring set with blue sapphires and diamond baguettes.
Did you both start your careers in jewelry? Tomer was in the jewelry field from the very beginning. He has a BA in jewelry design and never strayed away from the industry. He has an abundance of technical knowledge and experience, and knows how to work with gold, stone setting, wax carving and 3D design. I think this is a huge advantage when the designer knows the ins and outs of the craft, because every technical decision is also a design-related decision. – Tanya What is it you love about being a jewelry designer? For me, jewelry design embodies education, profession, hobby, inspiration, dreams, and sometimes even leisure— all of this exists there for me and I love that. – Tomer What is your design process? Sometimes, a design begins with a stone—its shape, shade, or cut inspires the design. But more often, I have an idea and draw many sketches of the same idea in different ways and variations. I stop when I feel that I have got it and when I’ve placed the idea in the right form. Then Tomer and I choose one or two raw designs and start developing them into a piece of jewelry. – Tanya
15
DYNAMIC DUOS
LIONHEART
Joy Haugaard & Sarah Haugaard Relationship: Siblings How did the two of you meet? Sarah is my sister, so our story started the day she was born. We’ve always been close, attached at the hip and always wanted to build something together. It’s this closeness that has shaped everything we do. Our bond is built on a lifetime of love, trust, and shared dreams. – Joy
“We’re the yin and yang of one another. I’m the Lion and Sarah is the Heart. Our strength comes from our unity, and it’s that unwavering connection that keeps us moving forward.” – Joy
What is your process? Joy pours her heart into every piece, thinking through every detail with so much passion. Watching her work is like seeing a vision come to life, and I’m always amazed by how she brings her ideas into reality. My role is more practical—I handle the logistics, planning, and business side of things to make sure everything stays on track. Once we’re in sync, we come together to decide on the collection, blending her creativity with the practicality I bring to the table. – Sarah Is there an overlap? Absolutely. We’re constantly bouncing ideas off each other, and even though we each have our areas of expertise, we both play a role in shaping every aspect of Lionheart. Whether it’s design, strategy or operations, our collaboration ensures that our vision stays consistent and true to who we are. – Joy Tell us about branding and marketing. At its core, Lionheart embodies the courage, resilience, and beauty reflected in its name, inspired by our favorite childhood story, The Brothers Lionheart. Like the tale, which tells a story of bravery and the beautiful bond between two siblings, our brand celebrates bravery, individuality, and the power of embracing one’s journey with confidence and grace. – Sarah
Opposite page:
40 JEWELRY CREATORS
Above: Cassandane Sun Pendant. 14k gold medallion with pink sapphire and diamonds, with chain.
This page:
Below: Lucky Emerald Horseshoe Charm. 18k gold charm with emeralds and diamonds.
Seasons Starry Night Charm. 18k gold charm with blue sapphires and diamonds.
41
DYNAMIC DUOS
LIONHEART
Joy Haugaard & Sarah Haugaard Relationship: Siblings How did the two of you meet? Sarah is my sister, so our story started the day she was born. We’ve always been close, attached at the hip and always wanted to build something together. It’s this closeness that has shaped everything we do. Our bond is built on a lifetime of love, trust, and shared dreams. – Joy
“We’re the yin and yang of one another. I’m the Lion and Sarah is the Heart. Our strength comes from our unity, and it’s that unwavering connection that keeps us moving forward.” – Joy
What is your process? Joy pours her heart into every piece, thinking through every detail with so much passion. Watching her work is like seeing a vision come to life, and I’m always amazed by how she brings her ideas into reality. My role is more practical—I handle the logistics, planning, and business side of things to make sure everything stays on track. Once we’re in sync, we come together to decide on the collection, blending her creativity with the practicality I bring to the table. – Sarah Is there an overlap? Absolutely. We’re constantly bouncing ideas off each other, and even though we each have our areas of expertise, we both play a role in shaping every aspect of Lionheart. Whether it’s design, strategy or operations, our collaboration ensures that our vision stays consistent and true to who we are. – Joy Tell us about branding and marketing. At its core, Lionheart embodies the courage, resilience, and beauty reflected in its name, inspired by our favorite childhood story, The Brothers Lionheart. Like the tale, which tells a story of bravery and the beautiful bond between two siblings, our brand celebrates bravery, individuality, and the power of embracing one’s journey with confidence and grace. – Sarah
Opposite page:
40 JEWELRY CREATORS
Above: Cassandane Sun Pendant. 14k gold medallion with pink sapphire and diamonds, with chain.
This page:
Below: Lucky Emerald Horseshoe Charm. 18k gold charm with emeralds and diamonds.
Seasons Starry Night Charm. 18k gold charm with blue sapphires and diamonds.
41
DYNAMIC DUOS
JADE TRAU
Jade Trau Fifth-generation, founder and designer When and how did your family start in the diamond business? My family’s history in the diamond trade dates from the late 1800s with my grandfather’s father, Chaim Trau. During World War II, the entire family fled Belgium. After the war, my grandfather’s two brothers started cutting rough diamonds again. My grandfather immigrated to the USA and was working as a rabbi in Brooklyn.
“My first memory of being around jewelry was when I was about five years old and a male friend, whose grandfather—like mine— was in the diamond business, gave me tiny diamond studs for my birthday. It was a tough act to follow getting diamonds so young from a boy.” Previous page:
How did he get back into the business? One day, one of his constituents said, “Are you Trau from the diamond business?” and asked if he would be able to order some diamonds from his family. That one package of baguettes resulted in my grandfather turning his rabbi career into a side gig, while his main profession became diamonds. He later became a sightholder for De Beers and had a cutting and polishing wholesale business on 47th Street for many years. Did you visit your grandfather often as a girl? When I was around seven, my mother would start taking me to my grandfather’s office on 47th Street. He’d sit me down with a parcel of diamonds and let me sort through all the shapes and count them. At the end, he’d let me pick one that he’d keep in a special paper parcel with the other ones I’d chosen. Those might have been my first thoughts of starting a jewelry line when I grew up. Why did you break away and start your own business? People talk about a ‘want’ versus a ‘need.’ Starting my own line of jewelry and doing what I’m doing today felt like a ‘need.’ I was destined for this. What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned from your family? “You’re only as good as your word” is something my grandfather taught me early on. We still work in an industry that requires an immense amount of trust on so many levels. It doesn’t matter if it’s a $100 repair service or sourcing the biggest and best diamond for a client.
Bracelet by LALAoUNIS. Opposite page: Above: One-of-a-kind Hanging Frankie ring with marquise diamond. Below: Antiqueinspired Drop Earrings. 18k gold and platinum with pear-shaped diamond.
This page: Group of diamond-set and 18k gold bangles.
88 JEWELRY CREATORS
89
GENERATIONAL GEMS
JADE TRAU
Jade Trau Fifth-generation, founder and designer When and how did your family start in the diamond business? My family’s history in the diamond trade dates from the late 1800s with my grandfather’s father, Chaim Trau. During World War II, the entire family fled Belgium. After the war, my grandfather’s two brothers started cutting rough diamonds again. My grandfather immigrated to the USA and was working as a rabbi in Brooklyn.
“My first memory of being around jewelry was when I was about five years old and a male friend, whose grandfather—like mine— was in the diamond business, gave me tiny diamond studs for my birthday. It was a tough act to follow getting diamonds so young from a boy.” Previous page:
How did he get back into the business? One day, one of his constituents said, “Are you Trau from the diamond business?” and asked if he would be able to order some diamonds from his family. That one package of baguettes resulted in my grandfather turning his rabbi career into a side gig, while his main profession became diamonds. He later became a sightholder for De Beers and had a cutting and polishing wholesale business on 47th Street for many years. Did you visit your grandfather often as a girl? When I was around seven, my mother would start taking me to my grandfather’s office on 47th Street. He’d sit me down with a parcel of diamonds and let me sort through all the shapes and count them. At the end, he’d let me pick one that he’d keep in a special paper parcel with the other ones I’d chosen. Those might have been my first thoughts of starting a jewelry line when I grew up. Why did you break away and start your own business? People talk about a ‘want’ versus a ‘need.’ Starting my own line of jewelry and doing what I’m doing today felt like a ‘need.’ I was destined for this. What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned from your family? “You’re only as good as your word” is something my grandfather taught me early on. We still work in an industry that requires an immense amount of trust on so many levels. It doesn’t matter if it’s a $100 repair service or sourcing the biggest and best diamond for a client.
Bracelet by LALAoUNIS. Opposite page: Above: One-of-a-kind Hanging Frankie ring with marquise diamond. Below: Antiqueinspired Drop Earrings. 18k gold and platinum with pear-shaped diamond.
This page: Group of diamond-set and 18k gold bangles.
88 JEWELRY CREATORS
89
GENERATIONAL GEMS
NEVERNOT
Founded in 2018 by Nina Dzhokhadze and Natia Chkhartishvili, NeverNoT is a fine-jewelry brand that celebrates vibrant color, playful spirit, and everyday luxury. After years of working in the jewelry and fashion industries, the duo united to create a line that reflects their personal style and a desire to make fine jewelry feel effortless and accessible. Rooted in friendship and a shared creative vision, NeverNoT’s enameled and gem-set pieces are designed to seamlessly work for any occasion. “Our style is very colorful and easy to wear, both during the day and nighttime,” Nina says. The bold aesthetic draws inspiration from the founders’ Georgian heritage while embracing global influences, reflecting a brand that lives and travels worldwide. NeverNoT regularly exhibits at London Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week, and Couture Las Vegas. The friends’ roles are complementary: Nina oversees the London office, leading all sales and press, while Natia manages design, production, and the brand’s digital presence. The duo has always prioritized working with and supporting fellow Georgian creatives. “We do branding and marketing in-house and try to involve our team from Georgia as much as possible,” says Natia.
152 JEWELRY CREATORS
Opposite page: Suitcase Pendants in 14k gold with various gemstones.
153
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHIES
NEVERNOT
Founded in 2018 by Nina Dzhokhadze and Natia Chkhartishvili, NeverNoT is a fine-jewelry brand that celebrates vibrant color, playful spirit, and everyday luxury. After years of working in the jewelry and fashion industries, the duo united to create a line that reflects their personal style and a desire to make fine jewelry feel effortless and accessible. Rooted in friendship and a shared creative vision, NeverNoT’s enameled and gem-set pieces are designed to seamlessly work for any occasion. “Our style is very colorful and easy to wear, both during the day and nighttime,” Nina says. The bold aesthetic draws inspiration from the founders’ Georgian heritage while embracing global influences, reflecting a brand that lives and travels worldwide. NeverNoT regularly exhibits at London Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week, and Couture Las Vegas. The friends’ roles are complementary: Nina oversees the London office, leading all sales and press, while Natia manages design, production, and the brand’s digital presence. The duo has always prioritized working with and supporting fellow Georgian creatives. “We do branding and marketing in-house and try to involve our team from Georgia as much as possible,” says Natia.
152 JEWELRY CREATORS
Opposite page: Suitcase Pendants in 14k gold with various gemstones.
153
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHIES
OMI GEMS/OMI PRIVÉ
Founded in 1985, Omi Gems is a family-owned gemstone House built on five generations of heritage in the colored-stone trade. Its roots trace back to Omi Nagpal, who arrived in New York in 1975 with his wife, Preeti, and son, Niveet. Though Omi’s career began in engineering and computer sales, Preeti’s deep familial ties to the gem trade—cultivated over decades, from India to Thailand—laid the foundation for the company. Today, Omi Gems is internationally recognized for sourcing and supplying exceptional colored gemstones to designers and retailers. Niveet joined the family business in 1997, after leaving his finance job. “What drew me back to the jewelry industry wasn’t the gemstones, it was the people,” he shares. “The relationships I built, what I learned, and the passion within this community, many of whom run generational family businesses, felt very different from finance.” The company moved from selling loose, mainly calibrated gemstones to manufacturers producing mass jewelry in the USA, to sourcing larger, higher-end stones. As a result, Niveet launched Omi Privé in 2012, a fine-jewelry line dedicated to transforming rare gemstones, such as sapphires, rubies, emeralds, alexandrites, and Paraiba tourmalines, into one-of-a-kind pieces. Each Omi Privé piece is designed and made in the USA. The brand’s commitment to excellence has been recognized with multiple accolades, including AGTA Spectrum Awards.
154 JEWELRY CREATORS
Opposite page: Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond Ring.
155
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHIES
OMI GEMS/OMI PRIVÉ
Founded in 1985, Omi Gems is a family-owned gemstone House built on five generations of heritage in the colored-stone trade. Its roots trace back to Omi Nagpal, who arrived in New York in 1975 with his wife, Preeti, and son, Niveet. Though Omi’s career began in engineering and computer sales, Preeti’s deep familial ties to the gem trade—cultivated over decades, from India to Thailand—laid the foundation for the company. Today, Omi Gems is internationally recognized for sourcing and supplying exceptional colored gemstones to designers and retailers. Niveet joined the family business in 1997, after leaving his finance job. “What drew me back to the jewelry industry wasn’t the gemstones, it was the people,” he shares. “The relationships I built, what I learned, and the passion within this community, many of whom run generational family businesses, felt very different from finance.” The company moved from selling loose, mainly calibrated gemstones to manufacturers producing mass jewelry in the USA, to sourcing larger, higher-end stones. As a result, Niveet launched Omi Privé in 2012, a fine-jewelry line dedicated to transforming rare gemstones, such as sapphires, rubies, emeralds, alexandrites, and Paraiba tourmalines, into one-of-a-kind pieces. Each Omi Privé piece is designed and made in the USA. The brand’s commitment to excellence has been recognized with multiple accolades, including AGTA Spectrum Awards.
154 JEWELRY CREATORS
Opposite page: Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond Ring.
155
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHIES
SORELLINA
In 2012, sisters Kim and Nicole Carosella launched their first collection under their Sorellina label, but their affinity for jewelry started long before that. “Our fascination began when our mother lulled us to sleep by dangling her sparkly jewelry in front of us,” says Kim. Initially, their designs evoked the symbolism and silhouettes of Victorian jewelry, in particular snake motifs. “The Sorellina inspiration was and still is timeless, antique jewelry,” says Kim. “It’s important to us that we honor the techniques of the past, while bringing in a fresh perspective so that our jewelry transcends time. We always aim to design pieces that women are inspired to purchase for themselves.” As the brand grew, the sisters’ influences expanded to include the mysticism of Tarot cards and the shapes of the Art Deco period. “We continue to sell some of our most popular original gold and diamond pieces but push the boundaries of stonecut jewelry, and it has become a hallmark of the brand,” explains Kim. “We have also added more symbolic and sentimental motifs, to offer a personalized experience to our clients.” Sorellina’s signet rings and necklaces are each set with an opaque stone; they then add meaningful motifs, such as a heart with an arrow, a crescent moon and star, or a hummingbird, among other symbols. “Our customers can choose their stones and motifs,” says Kim. The idea of personal talismans has been fundamental to the Sorellina brand. “There’s something incredibly special about owning a piece of jewelry you’ve helped to design yourself.”
166 JEWELRY CREATORS
Opposite page: Gemini Zodiac Pendant in 18k gold with diamonds. Both pages: Nomad Signet Rings in 18k gold set with various colored gemstones.
167
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHIES
SORELLINA
In 2012, sisters Kim and Nicole Carosella launched their first collection under their Sorellina label, but their affinity for jewelry started long before that. “Our fascination began when our mother lulled us to sleep by dangling her sparkly jewelry in front of us,” says Kim. Initially, their designs evoked the symbolism and silhouettes of Victorian jewelry, in particular snake motifs. “The Sorellina inspiration was and still is timeless, antique jewelry,” says Kim. “It’s important to us that we honor the techniques of the past, while bringing in a fresh perspective so that our jewelry transcends time. We always aim to design pieces that women are inspired to purchase for themselves.” As the brand grew, the sisters’ influences expanded to include the mysticism of Tarot cards and the shapes of the Art Deco period. “We continue to sell some of our most popular original gold and diamond pieces but push the boundaries of stonecut jewelry, and it has become a hallmark of the brand,” explains Kim. “We have also added more symbolic and sentimental motifs, to offer a personalized experience to our clients.” Sorellina’s signet rings and necklaces are each set with an opaque stone; they then add meaningful motifs, such as a heart with an arrow, a crescent moon and star, or a hummingbird, among other symbols. “Our customers can choose their stones and motifs,” says Kim. The idea of personal talismans has been fundamental to the Sorellina brand. “There’s something incredibly special about owning a piece of jewelry you’ve helped to design yourself.”
166 JEWELRY CREATORS
Opposite page: Gemini Zodiac Pendant in 18k gold with diamonds. Both pages: Nomad Signet Rings in 18k gold set with various colored gemstones.
167
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHIES
Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos and Generational Gems is a beautifully illustrated book that celebrates the relationships at the core of the jewelry and gemstone industry. Divided into two chapters, the book provides an insight into the world of those that work as a duo, be it family members or close friends, and those that are part of a generational legacy. More than just an illustrious tome presenting the art of jewelry making, Jewelry Creators is a fun and informative read with behind-the scenes anecdotes and little-known secrets from 22 brands. All who are featured in the book have merged their artistic talents and professional styles, complementing one another to create some of the most memorable and enduring pieces that delve into the past, reveal the present, and speak to the future. Whether you’re new to the jewelry world, a longtime enthusiast, a collector who cherishes innovation and heritage, or simply someone who delights in lively conversational narratives, the stories shared within these pages are here to inspire.
ISBN: 978-1-78884-326-3
9 781788 843263 www.accartbooks.com
56000 £45.00/$60.00