Independent Watchmakers

With a foreword from Jean-Marie Schaller, founder and creative director of Louis Moinet, Independent Watchmakers introduces 60 of the most elegant watches the horological world has to offer, from independent makers, including several one-of-a-kind pieces that have never before appeared in print. Many of these ateliers handcraft both the watches and their complicated mechanical movements in-house. The level of expertise and craftsmanship involved is truly dazzling.

STEVE HUYTON

Steve Huyton, design blogger and founder of the Paolo Mathai Horology label, looks beyond the price tag, featuring affordable options of particular artistic merit as well as pieces from the luxury end of the scale. Discover the hidden gems of the watchmaking business – 60 independent artisans counted among the finest makers in the world.

ISBN: 978-1-85149-898-7

ËxHSLIPBy498987zv;:;:!:!:! £35.00/$50.00

www.accartbooks.com

STEVE HUYTON

C O N T E N T S © 2019 Steve Huyton World copyright reserved ISBN 978 185149 898 7 The right of Steve Huyton to be identified as author of this work has been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 The author and publisher are grateful to the individual brands for supplying the images used in this book. All images remain the copyright of the individual brand.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library The author and publisher gratefully acknowledge the permission granted to reproduce the copyright material in this book. Every effort has been made to trace copyright holders and to obtain their permission for the use of copyright material.

The publisher apologises for any errors or omissions in the text and would be grateful if notified of any corrections that should be incorporated in future reprints or editions of this book.

Printed in China for ACC Art Books Ltd, Woodbridge, Suffolk, England www.accartbooks.com

FOREWORD 7 PREFACE 8 INTRODUCTION 9 4N SAPPHIRE PLANET 10 15.48 DRIVER WATCH 14 ANDREAS STREHLER TIME SHADOW 18 ANGULAR MOMENTUM BLUE, GREEN LUME & BRONZE 22 ANTOINE PREZIUSO CHRON­ OMETER TOURBILLON OF TOURBILLONS 24 ANTTI RÖNKKÖ ICARUS 28 ANURA RAFAEL WRITE TIME 32 ATELIER BÉLIER THE REVERSE 36 AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CONCEPT CARBON 40 AZIMUTH GRAN TURISMO 44 BEXEI WATCHES DIGNITAS POWER RESERVE 46 BLU TOURBILLON MT3 50 BOVET OTTANTATRE 54 BREVA GÉNIE 03 58 CABESTAN TRIPLE AXIS TOURBILLON FULL SAPPHIRE 62 CHRISTOPHE CLARET MAESTRO TITANIUM 66 CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW PLANETARIUM ZODIAC SIGN SAGITTARIUS 70 CUERVO Y SOBRINOS HISTORIADOR TRADICIÓN 74 CZAPEK & CIE PLACE VENDÔME TOURBILLON SUSPENDU IN PLATINUM 76 D. CANDAUX 1740–THE FIRST 8 80 DE BETHUNE DREAM WATCH 5 METEORITE 84 DEWITT MATHEMATICAL ROSE GOLD 88 EVA LEUBE ARI WATCH 92 FAVRE-LEUBA RAIDER HARPOON 96 FIONA KRÜGER PETIT SKULL ‘ETERNITY’ 98 FRANCK DUBARRY CRAZY WHEEL CW0406 102 GOS WATCHES NORDIC SEASONS ‘WINTER’ 106 GREUBEL FORSEY INVENTION PIECE 1 110 GRÖNEFELD GTM-06 114 H. MOSER & CIE SWISS MAD WATCH 118 HAJIME ASAOKA CHRONOGRAPH 10 122 HYT H0 124 KAJ KORPELA TIMEPIECE NO. 1 128 KARI VOUTILAINEN 28 SARASAMON 132 KEES ENGELBARTS PLATINUM TSUBA 136 KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN LUNOKHOD PRIME 140 KRAYON EVERYWHERE 142 LINDE WERDELIN OKTOPUS REEF 146 LOUIS MOINET MOBILIS 150 MAÎTRES DU TEMPS CHAPTER ONE TONNEAU TRANSPARENCE TITANIUM 154 MANUFACTURE ROYALE ADN STREET ART 158 MASAHIRO KIKUNO SAKUBOU 162 MB&F HM6 ALIEN NATION 166 MOLNÁR FÁBRY CLASSIC ART TOURBILLON 170 MONTANDON & CO. WINDWARD TMA01 V1 174 NORD ZEITMASCHINE FREESDIAL 178 OCHS UND JUNIOR PERPETUAL CALENDAR 182 PAOLO MATHAI PURE CARBON 186 PARMIGIANI BUGATTI TYPE 370 VICTOIRE-2 188 PATEK PHILIPPE 6102P001 GRAND COMPLICATION 192 REBELLION WEAP ONE 194 RGM WATCHES PENNSYLVANIA TOURBILLON 198 RICHARD MILLE RM27-03 RAFAEL NADAL 202 SARPANEVA KORONA K0 NORTHERN LIGHTS 206 SINGER RE­ IMAGINED TRACK 1 210 TOCKR C-47 WING 214 TORGEN NAGENGAST EXTREME X1 218 URWERK UR-210 ‘AMADEUS’ EDITION 222 VAULT V1 226 VIANNEY HALTER DEEP SPACE TOURBILLON 230 VINCENT CALABRESE PEGASUS 234 WANDOLEC ART STUDIO UNIQUE 1/1 PIECE 236 ABOUT THE AUTHOR 240

C O N T E N T S © 2019 Steve Huyton World copyright reserved ISBN 978 185149 898 7 The right of Steve Huyton to be identified as author of this work has been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 The author and publisher are grateful to the individual brands for supplying the images used in this book. All images remain the copyright of the individual brand.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library The author and publisher gratefully acknowledge the permission granted to reproduce the copyright material in this book. Every effort has been made to trace copyright holders and to obtain their permission for the use of copyright material.

The publisher apologises for any errors or omissions in the text and would be grateful if notified of any corrections that should be incorporated in future reprints or editions of this book.

Printed in China for ACC Art Books Ltd, Woodbridge, Suffolk, England www.accartbooks.com

FOREWORD 7 PREFACE 8 INTRODUCTION 9 4N SAPPHIRE PLANET 10 15.48 DRIVER WATCH 14 ANDREAS STREHLER TIME SHADOW 18 ANGULAR MOMENTUM BLUE, GREEN LUME & BRONZE 22 ANTOINE PREZIUSO CHRON­ OMETER TOURBILLON OF TOURBILLONS 24 ANTTI RÖNKKÖ ICARUS 28 ANURA RAFAEL WRITE TIME 32 ATELIER BÉLIER THE REVERSE 36 AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CONCEPT CARBON 40 AZIMUTH GRAN TURISMO 44 BEXEI WATCHES DIGNITAS POWER RESERVE 46 BLU TOURBILLON MT3 50 BOVET OTTANTATRE 54 BREVA GÉNIE 03 58 CABESTAN TRIPLE AXIS TOURBILLON FULL SAPPHIRE 62 CHRISTOPHE CLARET MAESTRO TITANIUM 66 CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW PLANETARIUM ZODIAC SIGN SAGITTARIUS 70 CUERVO Y SOBRINOS HISTORIADOR TRADICIÓN 74 CZAPEK & CIE PLACE VENDÔME TOURBILLON SUSPENDU IN PLATINUM 76 D. CANDAUX 1740–THE FIRST 8 80 DE BETHUNE DREAM WATCH 5 METEORITE 84 DEWITT MATHEMATICAL ROSE GOLD 88 EVA LEUBE ARI WATCH 92 FAVRE-LEUBA RAIDER HARPOON 96 FIONA KRÜGER PETIT SKULL ‘ETERNITY’ 98 FRANCK DUBARRY CRAZY WHEEL CW0406 102 GOS WATCHES NORDIC SEASONS ‘WINTER’ 106 GREUBEL FORSEY INVENTION PIECE 1 110 GRÖNEFELD GTM-06 114 H. MOSER & CIE SWISS MAD WATCH 118 HAJIME ASAOKA CHRONOGRAPH 10 122 HYT H0 124 KAJ KORPELA TIMEPIECE NO. 1 128 KARI VOUTILAINEN 28 SARASAMON 132 KEES ENGELBARTS PLATINUM TSUBA 136 KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN LUNOKHOD PRIME 140 KRAYON EVERYWHERE 142 LINDE WERDELIN OKTOPUS REEF 146 LOUIS MOINET MOBILIS 150 MAÎTRES DU TEMPS CHAPTER ONE TONNEAU TRANSPARENCE TITANIUM 154 MANUFACTURE ROYALE ADN STREET ART 158 MASAHIRO KIKUNO SAKUBOU 162 MB&F HM6 ALIEN NATION 166 MOLNÁR FÁBRY CLASSIC ART TOURBILLON 170 MONTANDON & CO. WINDWARD TMA01 V1 174 NORD ZEITMASCHINE FREESDIAL 178 OCHS UND JUNIOR PERPETUAL CALENDAR 182 PAOLO MATHAI PURE CARBON 186 PARMIGIANI BUGATTI TYPE 370 VICTOIRE-2 188 PATEK PHILIPPE 6102P001 GRAND COMPLICATION 192 REBELLION WEAP ONE 194 RGM WATCHES PENNSYLVANIA TOURBILLON 198 RICHARD MILLE RM27-03 RAFAEL NADAL 202 SARPANEVA KORONA K0 NORTHERN LIGHTS 206 SINGER RE­ IMAGINED TRACK 1 210 TOCKR C-47 WING 214 TORGEN NAGENGAST EXTREME X1 218 URWERK UR-210 ‘AMADEUS’ EDITION 222 VAULT V1 226 VIANNEY HALTER DEEP SPACE TOURBILLON 230 VINCENT CALABRESE PEGASUS 234 WANDOLEC ART STUDIO UNIQUE 1/1 PIECE 236 ABOUT THE AUTHOR 240

15.48

15.48 is a design platform that creates exclusive, limited edition watches for enthusiasts. The company name commemorates the time of day when these four Italian friends created their first prototype timepiece, on 29 January 2015. Though their first model doesn’t have an official name, it makes up for this with its distinctive appearance. Dimensionally, the timepiece is on the large side, but thanks to its forged carbon case and detachable cover, the piece is exceptionally lightweight. Apart from the bespoke Swiss mechanical movement, all the components are crafted in Italy.

The watch features jumping hours and minutes. This display is visible from the side via a vertical sapphirecrystal prism, designed so that a driver might glance at it without taking their hands off the wheel. Power-reserve indication and constant seconds are shown on the top of the case. Both the cover and the strap are replaceable, allowing the wearer to customise their watch with a wide range of materials, including those they themselves provide. In this way, the final product is tailored to the individual.

Specifications Diameter: 42 mm Depth: 15 mm Weight: 61 g

Description

■ Rectangular carbon fibre case with extendable winding lever, waterproof to 3 atm ■ Super-LumiNova-coated digits revolve beneath an upright sapphire prism ■ A small VS2 F, conflictfree diamond indicates the current time

DRIVER WATCH

15.48

15.48 is a design platform that creates exclusive, limited edition watches for enthusiasts. The company name commemorates the time of day when these four Italian friends created their first prototype timepiece, on 29 January 2015. Though their first model doesn’t have an official name, it makes up for this with its distinctive appearance. Dimensionally, the timepiece is on the large side, but thanks to its forged carbon case and detachable cover, the piece is exceptionally lightweight. Apart from the bespoke Swiss mechanical movement, all the components are crafted in Italy.

The watch features jumping hours and minutes. This display is visible from the side via a vertical sapphirecrystal prism, designed so that a driver might glance at it without taking their hands off the wheel. Power-reserve indication and constant seconds are shown on the top of the case. Both the cover and the strap are replaceable, allowing the wearer to customise their watch with a wide range of materials, including those they themselves provide. In this way, the final product is tailored to the individual.

Specifications Diameter: 42 mm Depth: 15 mm Weight: 61 g

Description

■ Rectangular carbon fibre case with extendable winding lever, waterproof to 3 atm ■ Super-LumiNova-coated digits revolve beneath an upright sapphire prism ■ A small VS2 F, conflictfree diamond indicates the current time

DRIVER WATCH

ANDREAS STREHLER

Andreas Strehler is part of an elite organisation called the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants). Ultimately, this group promotes fine independent watchmakers from around the world. Although Andreas Strehler has created many timepieces for well-known brands, he also creates bespoke pieces under his own name. Recently he unveiled a new watch called the Time Shadow, which has an impressive twenty-jewel manual-winding mechanical movement, developed in-house. This piece boasts a modest 316L stainless steel case, designed to maximise refinement and comfort of wearing. Only eight have been made. This watch’s key feature is its minimalistic matt black dial; a study in dark colour theory and complementary textures, this watch is best appreciated in person, as a camera struggles to capture the subtleties of the grainage. Interestingly, hours are displayed on a rotating disc, while a more traditional watch-hand points to the minutes on a sub-dial. This rotating disc is actually a gear wheel, driven by the minute hand. In this way, the function of the watch is integrated seamlessly into its design. The overlapping dials reference Strehler’s initial concept for this watch: the figure of eight, the sign of infinity.

Specifications Length: 41 mm Width: 37.3 mm

Description

■ Rare grainage finish requires a high degree of craftsmanship ■ Hours are idicated by a steel silhouette passing in front of a circle of SuperLumiNova® paint ■ Simple, elegant handbevelled calibre of 132 parts

T I M E S H A D OW

ANDREAS STREHLER

Andreas Strehler is part of an elite organisation called the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants). Ultimately, this group promotes fine independent watchmakers from around the world. Although Andreas Strehler has created many timepieces for well-known brands, he also creates bespoke pieces under his own name. Recently he unveiled a new watch called the Time Shadow, which has an impressive twenty-jewel manual-winding mechanical movement, developed in-house. This piece boasts a modest 316L stainless steel case, designed to maximise refinement and comfort of wearing. Only eight have been made. This watch’s key feature is its minimalistic matt black dial; a study in dark colour theory and complementary textures, this watch is best appreciated in person, as a camera struggles to capture the subtleties of the grainage. Interestingly, hours are displayed on a rotating disc, while a more traditional watch-hand points to the minutes on a sub-dial. This rotating disc is actually a gear wheel, driven by the minute hand. In this way, the function of the watch is integrated seamlessly into its design. The overlapping dials reference Strehler’s initial concept for this watch: the figure of eight, the sign of infinity.

Specifications Length: 41 mm Width: 37.3 mm

Description

■ Rare grainage finish requires a high degree of craftsmanship ■ Hours are idicated by a steel silhouette passing in front of a circle of SuperLumiNova® paint ■ Simple, elegant handbevelled calibre of 132 parts

T I M E S H A D OW

26

ANTOINE PREZIUSO CHRONOMETER TOURBILLON OF TOURBILLONS

27

26

ANTOINE PREZIUSO CHRONOMETER TOURBILLON OF TOURBILLONS

27

BÉLIER REVERSE

BÉLIER REVERSE

BOVET

Without a doubt, the Swiss brand Bovet is one of the watch industry’s leading lights. The company was originally established by HenriFrançois Dubois-Bovet and is now owned by entrepreneur Pascal Raffy.

His mandate is to create a range of extraordinary watches that have timeless appeal, introducing new technological innovations to a house whose traditions stretch back for almost two centuries.

The Ottantatre is a collaboration with Pininfarina to celebrate this Italian design house’s eighty-third anniversary – hence the limited number of pieces. This openworked timepiece features Bovet’s trademark Amadeo® system, which enables the easy transformation of timepieces into necklace watches, pocket watches and clocks. The Ottantatre is also wholly reversible. On the obverse, jumping hours are indicated by a central disc that rotates over a dot of Super-LumiNova®, silhouetting the cut-out hours from below. Turn the watch over and you will find a smaller and more traditional dial, perfectly intermeshed with the skeletonised design.

Specifications Diameter: 44 mm Depth: 15.2 mm

Description

■ The crown is placed at 12 o’clock, as is common on Bovet pieces that convert into pocket watches, necklace watches and clocks ■ Hours, minutes and power reserve operate as a single holistic dial, overlaid one atop the other ■ Limited edition watch, with only 83 pieces in production, available in red or white gold

O T TA N TAT R E

BOVET

Without a doubt, the Swiss brand Bovet is one of the watch industry’s leading lights. The company was originally established by HenriFrançois Dubois-Bovet and is now owned by entrepreneur Pascal Raffy.

His mandate is to create a range of extraordinary watches that have timeless appeal, introducing new technological innovations to a house whose traditions stretch back for almost two centuries.

The Ottantatre is a collaboration with Pininfarina to celebrate this Italian design house’s eighty-third anniversary – hence the limited number of pieces. This openworked timepiece features Bovet’s trademark Amadeo® system, which enables the easy transformation of timepieces into necklace watches, pocket watches and clocks. The Ottantatre is also wholly reversible. On the obverse, jumping hours are indicated by a central disc that rotates over a dot of Super-LumiNova®, silhouetting the cut-out hours from below. Turn the watch over and you will find a smaller and more traditional dial, perfectly intermeshed with the skeletonised design.

Specifications Diameter: 44 mm Depth: 15.2 mm

Description

■ The crown is placed at 12 o’clock, as is common on Bovet pieces that convert into pocket watches, necklace watches and clocks ■ Hours, minutes and power reserve operate as a single holistic dial, overlaid one atop the other ■ Limited edition watch, with only 83 pieces in production, available in red or white gold

O T TA N TAT R E

CHRISTOPHE CLARET A glass-domed bezel caps this uncharacteristically restrained wristwatch from Christophe Claret. Claret is one of the most respected watchmakers in the industry, known for producing extraordinary pieces with a hefty price tag. One of his latest creations is the Maestro: the smallest and least bank-breaking in his range, it is a rare case of a high-end watch with neither a tourbillon nor a striking mechanism. However, on a visual level it punches well above its weight. The three-dimensional openworked dial is encapsulated within a sapphire-crystal dome. This ingeniously frames the watch’s mechanics, from its balance wheel (whose shape and colour – red or blue – depends on the iteration) to its series-coupled barrels, stacked one atop the other, which together ensure a 168-hour power reserve. Other details include the patented revolving conical date display, set with a ruby or a sapphire to match the balance wheel, and the MEMO function: another jewel-set cone that can be pivoted at the touch of a button to remind the absentminded wearer that another matter needs their attention.

Specifications Diameter: 42 mm

Description

■ An openworked yet intuitive dial, showing time, date, and the all-new MEMO function ■ The barrel and escapement lever of the DMC16 handwound calibre (built for this watch) can be seen on the dial ■ Available in Grade 5 titanium with sapphire detail, or rose gold with ruby detail. Each has 88 pieces

MAESTRO TITANIUM

CHRISTOPHE CLARET A glass-domed bezel caps this uncharacteristically restrained wristwatch from Christophe Claret. Claret is one of the most respected watchmakers in the industry, known for producing extraordinary pieces with a hefty price tag. One of his latest creations is the Maestro: the smallest and least bank-breaking in his range, it is a rare case of a high-end watch with neither a tourbillon nor a striking mechanism. However, on a visual level it punches well above its weight. The three-dimensional openworked dial is encapsulated within a sapphire-crystal dome. This ingeniously frames the watch’s mechanics, from its balance wheel (whose shape and colour – red or blue – depends on the iteration) to its series-coupled barrels, stacked one atop the other, which together ensure a 168-hour power reserve. Other details include the patented revolving conical date display, set with a ruby or a sapphire to match the balance wheel, and the MEMO function: another jewel-set cone that can be pivoted at the touch of a button to remind the absentminded wearer that another matter needs their attention.

Specifications Diameter: 42 mm

Description

■ An openworked yet intuitive dial, showing time, date, and the all-new MEMO function ■ The barrel and escapement lever of the DMC16 handwound calibre (built for this watch) can be seen on the dial ■ Available in Grade 5 titanium with sapphire detail, or rose gold with ruby detail. Each has 88 pieces

MAESTRO TITANIUM

CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW Christiaan van der Klaauw is a specialist watchmaker based in Heerenveen, in the Netherlands. He is the only altelier to exclusively design and craft mechanical astronomical watches by hand. The Sagittarius features a complication that was first executed to great success in van der Klaauw’s Planetarium watch: the smallest mechanical planetarium in the world, tracking the orbits of the first six planets in real-time. Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn all turn in concentric rings, beneath the sweep of the watch’s hands. This watch’s most striking feature is the threedimensional engraved gold dial, depicting Sagittarius, the archer, teacher and centaur who was an icon of knowledge in Ancient Greek mythology. Master-engraver Kees Engelbarts is to thank for this bas-relief, which renders Sagittarius in intricate detail, down to the hairs on his head and his flowing tail.

Specifications Diameter: 40 mm

Description

■ Complete with hours, minutes, date complications and a miniature planetarium, this double-barrelled watch has a 96-hour power reserve ■ Planets are hand-painted according to customer specifications ■ Comes with a black alligator-leather strap

PLANETARIUM ZODIAC

SIGN SAGITTARIUS

CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW Christiaan van der Klaauw is a specialist watchmaker based in Heerenveen, in the Netherlands. He is the only altelier to exclusively design and craft mechanical astronomical watches by hand. The Sagittarius features a complication that was first executed to great success in van der Klaauw’s Planetarium watch: the smallest mechanical planetarium in the world, tracking the orbits of the first six planets in real-time. Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn all turn in concentric rings, beneath the sweep of the watch’s hands. This watch’s most striking feature is the threedimensional engraved gold dial, depicting Sagittarius, the archer, teacher and centaur who was an icon of knowledge in Ancient Greek mythology. Master-engraver Kees Engelbarts is to thank for this bas-relief, which renders Sagittarius in intricate detail, down to the hairs on his head and his flowing tail.

Specifications Diameter: 40 mm

Description

■ Complete with hours, minutes, date complications and a miniature planetarium, this double-barrelled watch has a 96-hour power reserve ■ Planets are hand-painted according to customer specifications ■ Comes with a black alligator-leather strap

PLANETARIUM ZODIAC

SIGN SAGITTARIUS

S A R PA N E VA An independent micro watch label based in Helsinki, Finland, Stepan Sarpaneva’s eponymous company began as a kitchen-table project and grew into an obsession. Sarpaneva may jokingly describe his work as ‘really useless stuff ’, but as the son of Pentti Sarpaneva, renowned jeweller, and with a work record that spans some of the biggest names in the business – Piaget, Parmigiani, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret – his work is both technically accomplished and in possession of an unmistakable style. The Korona K0 Northern Lights, named after the Aurora Borealis, is one of his latest and most eyecatching pieces. Like many of Sarpaneva’s creations, its dial boasts a geometric design that radiates out from a central point.

Each segment of the base plate, visible beneath the steel cage, glows when charged – it is truly a watch that comes to life after dark. The dial was designed in collaboration with James Thompson of Black Badger Advanced Composites. At 6 o’clock we find the moon-phase talisman, which is practically Sarpaneva’s signature. Its face is a stylised caricature of the watchmaker himself.

Specifications Diameter: 46 mm Depth: 12 mm

Description

■ A generous 316L stainless steel case surrounds a luminous dial, available in green, blue or violet ■ The base plate is made of Grand Feu enamel, and the case is hand-engraved

by Joanne Ryal

KO RO N A K 0

NORTHERN LIGHTS

S A R PA N E VA An independent micro watch label based in Helsinki, Finland, Stepan Sarpaneva’s eponymous company began as a kitchen-table project and grew into an obsession. Sarpaneva may jokingly describe his work as ‘really useless stuff ’, but as the son of Pentti Sarpaneva, renowned jeweller, and with a work record that spans some of the biggest names in the business – Piaget, Parmigiani, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret – his work is both technically accomplished and in possession of an unmistakable style. The Korona K0 Northern Lights, named after the Aurora Borealis, is one of his latest and most eyecatching pieces. Like many of Sarpaneva’s creations, its dial boasts a geometric design that radiates out from a central point.

Each segment of the base plate, visible beneath the steel cage, glows when charged – it is truly a watch that comes to life after dark. The dial was designed in collaboration with James Thompson of Black Badger Advanced Composites. At 6 o’clock we find the moon-phase talisman, which is practically Sarpaneva’s signature. Its face is a stylised caricature of the watchmaker himself.

Specifications Diameter: 46 mm Depth: 12 mm

Description

■ A generous 316L stainless steel case surrounds a luminous dial, available in green, blue or violet ■ The base plate is made of Grand Feu enamel, and the case is hand-engraved

by Joanne Ryal

KO RO N A K 0

NORTHERN LIGHTS

With a foreword from Jean-Marie Schaller, founder and creative director of Louis Moinet, Independent Watchmakers introduces 60 of the most elegant watches the horological world has to offer, from independent makers, including several one-of-a-kind pieces that have never before appeared in print. Many of these ateliers handcraft both the watches and their complicated mechanical movements in-house. The level of expertise and craftsmanship involved is truly dazzling.

STEVE HUYTON

Steve Huyton, design blogger and founder of the Paolo Mathai Horology label, looks beyond the price tag, featuring affordable options of particular artistic merit as well as pieces from the luxury end of the scale. Discover the hidden gems of the watchmaking business – 60 independent artisans counted among the finest makers in the world.

ISBN: 978-1-85149-898-7

ËxHSLIPBy498987zv;:;:!:!:! £35.00/$50.00

www.accartbooks.com

STEVE HUYTON