Finding Shangri-La

Contents Introduction 8 A Forbidding Landscape

16

A Hazy Past 74 Living on the Roof of the World

90

Many People in Harmony

132

Syncretic Religion 152 Magnificent Monasteries

186

Conclusion 216

Detail of an embossed mural in the Tabo Monastery complex.

4

Contents Introduction 8 A Forbidding Landscape

16

A Hazy Past 74 Living on the Roof of the World

90

Many People in Harmony

132

Syncretic Religion 152 Magnificent Monasteries

186

Conclusion 216

Detail of an embossed mural in the Tabo Monastery complex.

4

tories from our geological and those from our

S

By religion, nearly half the population of Ladakh is

historical past unravel themselves in very different

Muslim. The rest, as also the population of Spiti, are almost

time frames. The last hundred million years have

entirely Buddhist in their faith. The form and practice of

resulted in the shaping of the Trans-Himalayan Tibetan

Buddhism there is different from that in the rest of India.

is the chief product; a little wheat is grown and, in some

Plateau into the present-day remote cold desert landscape.

Tibet, like most other places, had its own ancient culture,

places, apricots. Trees are scarce, so wood is hard to procure.

The splendid isolation of its hardy inhabitants was punctured

its belief systems, and rites and rituals known as Bon Chos.

There are many sheep, especially very large geldings; their

by the Mongol expansion from Central Asia, starting some

These were not abandoned but incorporated into Tibetan

flesh is most excellent, and their wool extraordinarily fine.

1,500 years back. Later, Tibet became an objective of the

Buddhism, examples of their inputs being their prayer flags,

The natives eat meat, and the flour of roasted barley, and

antagonistic Chinese and British imperial ambitions. Then,

prayer wheels and the cham dances. Constraints of living

drink chang, a sort of beer made from barley. Their clothes,

China physically occupied the political territory of Tibet in

in the cold, barren and bleak desert landscape shaped their

made of wool, are of suitable shape and make.

the 1950s and is currently disputing with India the sanctity

family structure, the village organization, their agricultural

of the national boundaries laid down in the past. Border

practices, livestock rearing and their culture of trade.

1715. Forming a part of the subsequently published journal ‘An A village near Lamayuru.

Account of Tibet’, his description of Ladakh is extracted below.

It is mountainous, sterile, and altogether horrible. Barley

skirmishes between the Indian Army and the Chinese

Continuity and Change

Peoples Liberation Army in the Galwan Valley and Pangong Tso Lake, and on the Siachen Glacier with the Pakistan

The dramatic political developments of the mid-twentieth

Army, have become commonplace.

Ladakh and Spiti, perched on the south-western edge of

century, having their genesis in events mostly external to

the vast Tibetan Plateau, are enchanting in their own way. In

Ladakh, did have a disrupting influence on the traditional

sharp contrast to their generally harsh and barren landscape

pattern of life in Ladakh. Yet, there has been an equilibrium

are the green agricultural fields with majestic and colourful

Given the commonality of geography and culture between

achieved by the Ladakhi society in living with the constraints

monasteries. Their remote villages are still untainted by

them, they are together also known as the ‘Little Tibet’. As

of their landscape. There was also a long-established internal

modernity. The hardy population is warm and hospitable,

the highest inhabited place in the world, Tibet is unique in its

harmony of its social organization. There was no compelling

enjoy their chang beer (brewed from barley, rice or millet)

lifestyle and culture. While it has always been a remote area,

motivation to change the age-old patterns of living.

and laugh easily. A serene place with its unique, though

the Chinese takeover of Tibet has further reduced access to

Consequently, the omnipresent interplay of continuity and

stark, beauty, it encourages one to slip into a meditative

this land often associated with the mythical ‘Shangri La’. The

change, in the traditional Ladakhi way of life, provide us with

contemplation effortlessly.

‘Cultural Revolution’ following the Chinese political control

a perspective to understand contemporary Ladakh.

Ladakh, as a Union Territory recently carved out of the State of Jammu and Kashmir on the one hand, and Spiti, a district in Himachal on the other, are not too far from each other. Both are accessible from Manali in Himachal Pradesh.

10

Multi-coloured mountain ranges near Likir Monastery.

Previous spread: Camels with riders on the Hundar Sand Dunes.

over Tibet has destroyed a large part of their traditional ways

As regards the contours of traditional Ladakh, it is

of life. These two regions falling within the political boundaries

interesting to take note of the snapshot of the area and its people

of India provide, arguably, the only authentic window left to

given by the Italian priest Ippolito Desideri. On his way from

that lost world.

Kashmir to Tibet, he passed through Ladakh in the summer of 11

tories from our geological and those from our

S

By religion, nearly half the population of Ladakh is

historical past unravel themselves in very different

Muslim. The rest, as also the population of Spiti, are almost

time frames. The last hundred million years have

entirely Buddhist in their faith. The form and practice of

resulted in the shaping of the Trans-Himalayan Tibetan

Buddhism there is different from that in the rest of India.

is the chief product; a little wheat is grown and, in some

Plateau into the present-day remote cold desert landscape.

Tibet, like most other places, had its own ancient culture,

places, apricots. Trees are scarce, so wood is hard to procure.

The splendid isolation of its hardy inhabitants was punctured

its belief systems, and rites and rituals known as Bon Chos.

There are many sheep, especially very large geldings; their

by the Mongol expansion from Central Asia, starting some

These were not abandoned but incorporated into Tibetan

flesh is most excellent, and their wool extraordinarily fine.

1,500 years back. Later, Tibet became an objective of the

Buddhism, examples of their inputs being their prayer flags,

The natives eat meat, and the flour of roasted barley, and

antagonistic Chinese and British imperial ambitions. Then,

prayer wheels and the cham dances. Constraints of living

drink chang, a sort of beer made from barley. Their clothes,

China physically occupied the political territory of Tibet in

in the cold, barren and bleak desert landscape shaped their

made of wool, are of suitable shape and make.

the 1950s and is currently disputing with India the sanctity

family structure, the village organization, their agricultural

of the national boundaries laid down in the past. Border

practices, livestock rearing and their culture of trade.

1715. Forming a part of the subsequently published journal ‘An A village near Lamayuru.

Account of Tibet’, his description of Ladakh is extracted below.

It is mountainous, sterile, and altogether horrible. Barley

skirmishes between the Indian Army and the Chinese

Continuity and Change

Peoples Liberation Army in the Galwan Valley and Pangong Tso Lake, and on the Siachen Glacier with the Pakistan

The dramatic political developments of the mid-twentieth

Army, have become commonplace.

Ladakh and Spiti, perched on the south-western edge of

century, having their genesis in events mostly external to

the vast Tibetan Plateau, are enchanting in their own way. In

Ladakh, did have a disrupting influence on the traditional

sharp contrast to their generally harsh and barren landscape

pattern of life in Ladakh. Yet, there has been an equilibrium

are the green agricultural fields with majestic and colourful

Given the commonality of geography and culture between

achieved by the Ladakhi society in living with the constraints

monasteries. Their remote villages are still untainted by

them, they are together also known as the ‘Little Tibet’. As

of their landscape. There was also a long-established internal

modernity. The hardy population is warm and hospitable,

the highest inhabited place in the world, Tibet is unique in its

harmony of its social organization. There was no compelling

enjoy their chang beer (brewed from barley, rice or millet)

lifestyle and culture. While it has always been a remote area,

motivation to change the age-old patterns of living.

and laugh easily. A serene place with its unique, though

the Chinese takeover of Tibet has further reduced access to

Consequently, the omnipresent interplay of continuity and

stark, beauty, it encourages one to slip into a meditative

this land often associated with the mythical ‘Shangri La’. The

change, in the traditional Ladakhi way of life, provide us with

contemplation effortlessly.

‘Cultural Revolution’ following the Chinese political control

a perspective to understand contemporary Ladakh.

Ladakh, as a Union Territory recently carved out of the State of Jammu and Kashmir on the one hand, and Spiti, a district in Himachal on the other, are not too far from each other. Both are accessible from Manali in Himachal Pradesh.

10

Multi-coloured mountain ranges near Likir Monastery.

Previous spread: Camels with riders on the Hundar Sand Dunes.

over Tibet has destroyed a large part of their traditional ways

As regards the contours of traditional Ladakh, it is

of life. These two regions falling within the political boundaries

interesting to take note of the snapshot of the area and its people

of India provide, arguably, the only authentic window left to

given by the Italian priest Ippolito Desideri. On his way from

that lost world.

Kashmir to Tibet, he passed through Ladakh in the summer of 11

A MAP OF LADAKH

14

A MAP OF Spiti

15

A MAP OF LADAKH

14

A MAP OF Spiti

15

Pangong Lake The landlocked and saline Pangong Lake stretches across the disputed and currently volatile IndoChinese Line of Actual Control (LAC)

The exposed sides of the presently landlocked Pangong Lake basin have stratified layers with fossilized freshwater marine creatures. They stand revealed due to erosion by water, pointing to the presence of a much larger volume of water earlier, and freshwater at that.

The water in that vast lake was connected, through the adjacent Tangtse Valley, with the Shyok River basin.

Consequent to a round of tectonic movements around 11,000 years ago, a catastrophic outburst (over perhaps two days) of the erstwhile freshwater lake occurred. The bulk of its water flowed out into the Tangtse Valley, over its spillway. A depleted lake was left behind, and the outflow now is only by way of evaporation. It resulted in a salty alkaline lake where very little marine life can survive. Migratory birds now have to manage with the small fish and crustaceans present in the snowmelt feeder streams flowing into the lake from the flanking Pangong and Changchenmo mountain ranges. Presently, threequarters of the expanse of the lake lies on the Chineseoccupied Aksai Chin plateau.

Pangong Lake.

32

33

Pangong Lake The landlocked and saline Pangong Lake stretches across the disputed and currently volatile IndoChinese Line of Actual Control (LAC)

The exposed sides of the presently landlocked Pangong Lake basin have stratified layers with fossilized freshwater marine creatures. They stand revealed due to erosion by water, pointing to the presence of a much larger volume of water earlier, and freshwater at that.

The water in that vast lake was connected, through the adjacent Tangtse Valley, with the Shyok River basin.

Consequent to a round of tectonic movements around 11,000 years ago, a catastrophic outburst (over perhaps two days) of the erstwhile freshwater lake occurred. The bulk of its water flowed out into the Tangtse Valley, over its spillway. A depleted lake was left behind, and the outflow now is only by way of evaporation. It resulted in a salty alkaline lake where very little marine life can survive. Migratory birds now have to manage with the small fish and crustaceans present in the snowmelt feeder streams flowing into the lake from the flanking Pangong and Changchenmo mountain ranges. Presently, threequarters of the expanse of the lake lies on the Chineseoccupied Aksai Chin plateau.

Pangong Lake.

32

33

Sunset in Sangla Valley.

64

65

Sunset in Sangla Valley.

64

65

NATURAL FORMS OF LIFE Wild growth near Hundar.

The quantum of precipitation was much more in Ladakh and Spiti, millions of years ago, till the rising Himalayas began forcing the monsoon-bearing winds to cool down.

Consequently, the monsoon clouds shed the bulk of their moisture well before reaching this area. Being in a rain shadow zone, the lack of humidity combined with the high altitude resulted in the generally dry, barren and an undulating landscape. The place seems, at first glance, incapable of supporting any biological life.

However, between the trickle of the Indian monsoon of late summer and the winter north westerlies blowing in from Central Asia, some moisture does reach them. That is deposited mainly as snow on the mountaintops.

The rare life forms that do survive in Ladakh and Spiti owe their existence primarily to the snow and the glaciers in the higher reaches of the mountains. Living beings, only marginally, depend on the intermittent and scanty summer rainfall. The short local summer, varying in its length depending on the altitude and the direction of the sun, generally extends for four to five

Melting snow with the onset of summer enables hardy plant life to grow that supports wild goats and sheep, their predators and also domesticated livestock 92

Preceding spread: Palace and Fort Complex at Basgo.

months, from May to September in Ladakh. The bright sun in this season causes the snow on the lower slopes to melt, sending trickles of water down the mountainsides.

They aggregate into cascades and, finally, come together as the mighty Indus, along with its Punjab tributaries in Ladakh and the Spiti river in the Spiti Valley. The seasonally available water cuts grooves in this bleak and barren landscape to create tiny micro-niches capable of supporting hardy plant life consisting of creepers and sparse bushes.

In Ladakh and Spiti, the sparse vegetation springing up wherever the ground is moist supports the wild goats and sheep which, in turn, sustain the predators – including the iconic snow leopard. These wild creatures created the space and opportunity for their human hunters who, in all likelihood, led the first incursions into this region. The highland pastures also play host to the domestic goat and sheep, and their pastoral herders.

However, as the carrying capacity of the natural biomass is low, the sustained use of these elevated pastures by the domesticated herds is possible only in strict, communitymonitored and seasonal cycles.

93

NATURAL FORMS OF LIFE Wild growth near Hundar.

The quantum of precipitation was much more in Ladakh and Spiti, millions of years ago, till the rising Himalayas began forcing the monsoon-bearing winds to cool down.

Consequently, the monsoon clouds shed the bulk of their moisture well before reaching this area. Being in a rain shadow zone, the lack of humidity combined with the high altitude resulted in the generally dry, barren and an undulating landscape. The place seems, at first glance, incapable of supporting any biological life.

However, between the trickle of the Indian monsoon of late summer and the winter north westerlies blowing in from Central Asia, some moisture does reach them. That is deposited mainly as snow on the mountaintops.

The rare life forms that do survive in Ladakh and Spiti owe their existence primarily to the snow and the glaciers in the higher reaches of the mountains. Living beings, only marginally, depend on the intermittent and scanty summer rainfall. The short local summer, varying in its length depending on the altitude and the direction of the sun, generally extends for four to five

Melting snow with the onset of summer enables hardy plant life to grow that supports wild goats and sheep, their predators and also domesticated livestock 92

Preceding spread: Palace and Fort Complex at Basgo.

months, from May to September in Ladakh. The bright sun in this season causes the snow on the lower slopes to melt, sending trickles of water down the mountainsides.

They aggregate into cascades and, finally, come together as the mighty Indus, along with its Punjab tributaries in Ladakh and the Spiti river in the Spiti Valley. The seasonally available water cuts grooves in this bleak and barren landscape to create tiny micro-niches capable of supporting hardy plant life consisting of creepers and sparse bushes.

In Ladakh and Spiti, the sparse vegetation springing up wherever the ground is moist supports the wild goats and sheep which, in turn, sustain the predators – including the iconic snow leopard. These wild creatures created the space and opportunity for their human hunters who, in all likelihood, led the first incursions into this region. The highland pastures also play host to the domestic goat and sheep, and their pastoral herders.

However, as the carrying capacity of the natural biomass is low, the sustained use of these elevated pastures by the domesticated herds is possible only in strict, communitymonitored and seasonal cycles.

93

Wild bushes and shrubs.

116

117

Wild bushes and shrubs.

116

117

174

175

174

175

Cham Dances During the winter months, when the agricultural operations are at a standstill, most monasteries have their independent two-day festival based on specific dates of the Tibetan calendar. Hemis near Leh, one of the wealthiest monasteries, modified this and held its celebration in summer. It has, consequently, become popular with tourists. Some other monasteries appear to be following suit to tap into this new potential. The Diskit Monastery, in contrast, has its festival in February when it becomes the focal point for the Buddhists of the Nubra Valley. At that time, they are cut off by the snow cover enveloping the Khardung La, their only access to the rest of Ladakh.

In these festivals, the monks, attired in luxurious brocade gowns and fearsome masks, enact an elaborate dance drama, narrating the age-old story of the victory of good over evil. The symbolism, typical of the tantric version of Vajrayana Buddhism practised in Ladakh, has made the actual story secondary to the stylized rhythmic movements of the dancers to the accompaniment of the droning sound of chanting of hymns, drums, cymbals and longhorns. The vestiges of the traditional shamanic religious practices make their appearance as the grotesque masks worn by the performers. These masks led the early Western explorers to describe these cham festivals as ‘devil dances’.

A masked Cham dance performer.

Facing page: Cham dance performers resting.

212

213

Cham Dances During the winter months, when the agricultural operations are at a standstill, most monasteries have their independent two-day festival based on specific dates of the Tibetan calendar. Hemis near Leh, one of the wealthiest monasteries, modified this and held its celebration in summer. It has, consequently, become popular with tourists. Some other monasteries appear to be following suit to tap into this new potential. The Diskit Monastery, in contrast, has its festival in February when it becomes the focal point for the Buddhists of the Nubra Valley. At that time, they are cut off by the snow cover enveloping the Khardung La, their only access to the rest of Ladakh.

In these festivals, the monks, attired in luxurious brocade gowns and fearsome masks, enact an elaborate dance drama, narrating the age-old story of the victory of good over evil. The symbolism, typical of the tantric version of Vajrayana Buddhism practised in Ladakh, has made the actual story secondary to the stylized rhythmic movements of the dancers to the accompaniment of the droning sound of chanting of hymns, drums, cymbals and longhorns. The vestiges of the traditional shamanic religious practices make their appearance as the grotesque masks worn by the performers. These masks led the early Western explorers to describe these cham festivals as ‘devil dances’.

A masked Cham dance performer.

Facing page: Cham dance performers resting.

212

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