A trip to neighbouring Wales also offers plenty of variety. Despite its rugged nature, stunning coastline and the snow-capped mountains in Snowdonia, the “Land of the Red Dragon” is not a harsh place. The Welsh are known for their cordial nature, and visitors will find pretty villages in between the fortified castles. THE ENGLAND & WALES BOOK invites you on a visual feast of a journey through the two countries, revealing the rich diversity of both in exciting photographs and expert texts.
ISBN 978-3-95504-756-6 UK £ 25.00 US$ 34.00
ENGLAND & WALES
England is a land of history and stories. The Romans, Celts and Normans have all left their mark here, as did William Shakespeare and Charles Dickens. From the chalk cliffs in the south to the Yorkshire Dales in the north, from the dramatic spires of the gothic cathedrals in Exeter and Salisbury to the romantic cottages of the Cotswolds – England, the largest country in the United Kingdom, offers an unusual variety of sights and landscapes, ranging from the dramatic scenery of the rugged Exmoor National Park to the tranquillity of the green hills in the heart of the country. Settled since prehistoric times, England boasts rich cultural treasures. Vibrant cities like Liverpool, Manchester and, of course, London stand out with their modern architecture and exciting cultural life, while the traditional England can still be discovered in magnificent gardens and old mansion houses.
ENGLAND WALES
THE ENGLAND BOOK
7
ABOUT THIS BOOK
8
While offering an abundance of cultural and natural
baked beans and eggs, and the pound continues to
experiences, England is still an insider tip for many.
rule ok – in England past and future always live next
Together with Wales, it represents the lion‘s share of
to each other. The country is the cradle of modern
the United Kingdom, which also includes Scotland
democracy, yet it still holds on to the monarchy –
and Northern Ireland. The colonial legacy has made
except that the Queen no longer exercises any
Britain perhaps the most cosmopolitan country in
power. Nowhere else in Europe are there as many
Europe, even though much is different in the island
and powerful castles, palaces and cathedrals.
kingdom. Not only do the cars drive on the left side
The Beatles, the Rolling Stones and William
of the road, the days often begin with fried bacon,
Shakespeare, Agatha Christie, Charles Dickens
CONTENTS
Above: The Lake District northwest of
SOUTH EAST ENGLAND
Manchester has preserved its mystique to this
KENT
12
Bristol
64
day – although at times England’s largest
Canterbury
14
Clifton Suspension Bridge
66
national park has had to cope with very large
Dover
16
SOMERSET
numbers of visitors.
Rochester
18
Bath
68
Cheddar Gorge
70
EAST SUSSEX Pictures on the preceding pages:
BRISTOL
Bodiam Castle
20
Wells
72
South Downs National Park
22
Glastonbury
74
24
Exmoor National Park
76
26
DEVON
Beachy Head p. 1: The guards in front of Buckingham
Brighton
Palace, wearing their typical red jackets
WEST SUSSEX
and bearskin hats
Arundel Castle
pp. 2/3: The moated Leeds Castle, standing
ISLE OF WIGHT
on an island in the River Len, in the county
Isle of Wight
of Kent
HAMPSHIRE
pp. 4/5: You could imagine yourself trans-
28
Exeter
78
Dartmoor National Park
80
CORNWALL 30
Tintagel
82
The Mines of Cornwall and West Devon
84
Portsmouth
32
St Michael’s Mount
86
ported into a fairy tale, yet although magical,
Winchester
34
St Ives
88
Stow-on-the-Wold in the Cotswolds is quite
Jane Austen: England‘s First Feminist?
36
Land’s End
88
real. The door, flanked by trees, belongs
BERKSHIRE
Isles of Scilly
90
to St Edward’s Church.
Windsor Castle
LONDON
92
pp. 6/7: The distinctive dome of London’s
St George’s Chapel
St Paul’s Cathedral, with the Millennium
OXFORDSHIRE
Bridge in the foreground
Oxford Blenheim Palace
38 40
Tower Bridge
94
42
Tower of London
96
44
St Paul’s Cathedral
98
Buckingham Palace and
SOUTH WEST ENGLAND
46
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
100 102
Cotswolds
48
Trafalgar Square
104
Pasties, Pastries and Pies
50
Piccadilly Circus
104
Gloucester
52
Westminster Palace
106
WILTSHIRE
Westminster Abbey
112
Stonehenge
54
London Eye
114
Salisbury
56
London Pubs
116
The Shard
118
DORSET
10
Victoria Monument
The Royals
Jurassic Coast
58
National Gallery
120
Durdle Door
59
National Portrait Gallery
120
CONTENTS
EAST OF ENGLAND
122
SUFFOLK Sutton Hoo
124
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
YORKSHIRE AND THE HUMBER 166
WALES
WEST YORKSHIRE
MONMOUTHSHIRE
Leeds
168
NORTH YORKSHIRE
Tintern Abbey
214 216
COUNTY OF CARDIFF
Ely
126
Yorkshire Dales National Park
170
Cardiff
218
Cambridge
128
Studley Royal Park and Fountains Abbey
172
Welsh Traditions
220
Peterborough
130
York Minster
174
Caerphilly Castle
222
PEMBROKESHIRE
NORFOLK The Broads National Park
132
NORTH WEST ENGLAND
Norfolk Coast
132
CHESHIRE Chester
EAST MIDLANDS
134
LEICESTERSHIRE Leicester
136
Charnwood Forest
138
The Wash
140
Lincoln
142
GREATER MANCHESTER
144
146
WARWICKSHIRE Stratford-upon-Avon
148
William Shakespeare – A Literary Titan
150
Warwick
152
St Govan’s Chapel
224
Solva
224
St Davids
226
Pembrokeshire Coast National Park
228
Salford
180
POWYS
Manchester
182
Brecon Beacons National Park
230
Football in Manchester
184
Hay-on-Wye
232
Powis Castle
232
Liverpool
186
CEREDIGION
Liverpool, Britpop: The Beatles and more
188
Aberystwyth
LANCASHIRE
DERBYSHIRE
WEST MIDLANDS
178
MERSEYSIDE
LINCOLNSHIRE
Peak District National Park
176
234
GWYNEDD
Blackpool
190
Lancaster
190
CUMBRIA
Harlech Castle
236
Edward I, Conqueror of Wales
238
Portmeirion
240
Celtic Traces in Cumbria
192
Welsh Steam Trains
242
Lake District National Park
194
Snowdonia National Park
244
Caernarfon Castle
246
NORTH EAST ENGLAND
196
ANGLESEY
WEST MIDLANDS (
COUNTY DURHAM
Anglesey
248
METROPOLITAN COUNTY)
Barnard Castle
198
Beaumaris Castle
248
Coventry
154
North Pennines
200
CONWY COUNTY BOROUGH
Birmingham
156
Durham
202
Conwy Castle
TYNE AND WEAR
SHROPSHIRE
WREXHAM
Shropshire Hills
158
Newcastle upon Tyne
204
Stokesay Castle
160
Gateshead
206
Ironbridge
162
NORTHUMBERLAND
Charles Darwin – Father of the Modern Theory of Evolution
164
250
Hadrian’s Wall
208
Northumberland National Park
210
Lindisfarne
212
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
252
Index
254
Picture Credits, Imprint
256
11
CHEDDAR GORGE Not only has the small town of Cheddar in Somer-
served skeleton in Britain, was discovered here in
set given its name to England’s favourite cheese,
1903 in Gough’s Cave, which had been inhabited for
but it is also home to one of the kingdom’s seven
millennia. Studies of even older bones indicate the
natural wonders. A wild gorge with walls up to
early dwellers were cannibals. The vibrant hues of
113 m (371 ft) high and striking limestone forma-
the stalactite caves are a particularly popular
tions extends for almost 5 km (3 miles). It was
attraction. Those interested can be whisked away
formed after the last Ice Age, when subterranean
into a fantasy world of lighting effects and video
rivers created countless caves here. The almost
projections in Cox’s Cave.
9000-year-old Cheddar Man, the oldest fully pre-
70
SOUTH WEST ENGLAND – SOMERSET
CHEDDAR GORGE
Cheddar Gorge glows a soft green at sunset (below). Left: Cheddar Gorge is home to several caves, including Cox’s Cave, which was discovered by accident in 1837. The very next year, the discoverer turned the cave into a tourist attraction, even though not all of the subterranean chambers and passageways had been explored at the time.
SOUTH WEST ENGLAND – SOMERSET
71
TOWER OF LONDON The mighty complex with the elaborate name of
Norman rulers to keep a watchful eye on the inde-
Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress The Tower
pendent and assertive Londoners. The two ram-
of London, but commonly known simply as Tower,
parts and moat were built in the 12th and 13th
stands guard by the Thames at the eastern end of
centuries. The Tower was a royal residence until
the City. At its centre is the White Tower, a solid
well into the 17th century, a prison until the mid-
fortress building erected on the orders of William
20th century, and today remains a royal treasury
the Conqueror following his crowning as King of
where the Crown Jewels have been on display to
England in 1078. It was designed not only to protect
the public for over 300 years.
the city against attacks, but also to enable the
96
LONDON
TOWER OF LONDON
The fortress by the river is visited by large numbers of people every year – not just for the grim tales of rolling heads and disagreeable noblemen starving in the dungeons, but also for the ancient ceremonies that continue to be held here for tourists, and the museum that provides information on the Royals. The Tower has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988.
LONDON
97
PETERBOROUGH The city on the River Nene north of Cambridge is
Europe. In stark contrast is the dizzyingly intricate
primarily known for its cathedral – one of the most
15th-century fan-vaulted ceiling in the chancel.
original examples of Norman early gothic architec-
Another tourist magnet just a few miles northwest
ture. Unique in itself is the wide façade, with its
of Peterborough is Burghley House, a stunning
three gables of equal height which rise up above
estate with parklands and an art collection. The city
giant arches. Once inside, visitors find themselves
centre, the Iron Age Flag Fen open-air museum,
in a 147-m- (482-ft-) long and surprisingly narrow
the Nene Valley Railway Museum and Nene Park
nave. The painted medieval wooden ceiling is the
are also worth a visit.
largest of only four to have been preserved across
130 EAST OF ENGLAND – CAMBRIDGESHIRE
PETERBOROUGH Left: The Butter Cross guildhall dates back to 1691. Far left: England is known for its stately manors, and one fine example of these is located some 15 km (9 miles) northwest of Peterborough. Burghley House is considered a masterpiece of the Tudor style. It was originally built on an E-shaped plan in honour of Queen Elizabeth I. Below and below, left: Peterborough Cathedral with wooden ceiling.
EAST OF ENGLAND – CAMBRIDGESHIRE
131
STUDLEY ROYAL PARK AND FOUNTAINS ABBEY The Cistercian Fountains Abbey was founded by
(storage cellar) and other storage rooms give an
monks from York, and it ended up becoming one of
idea of the size of the complex. After King Henry VIII
the largest and wealthiest monasteries in the
dissolved all the monasteries in England in the 16th
country through sheep farming and the wool trade.
century, the complex fell into disrepair, before
The 123-m- (404-ft-) long church, the 55-m- (180-
becoming part of the Studley Royal Park in the 18th
ft-) high tower above the northern transept, and the
century. Created in 1727, the Georgian park with
adjacent monastery buildings have been largely
the Octagon Tower, Temple of Piety and Moon Pond
preserved, albeit without a roof. The cloister, dor-
is one of the most magnificent in the country.
mitory, refectory, 100-m- (328-ft-) long undercroft
172 YORKSHIRE AND THE HUMBER – NORTH YORKSHIRE
STUDLEY ROYAL PARK AND FOUNTAINS ABBEY
Studley Royal Park in North Yorkshire is home to the imposing ruins of the former wealthy Cistercian abbey known as Fountains Abbey – one of the largest and best preserved monastery complexes in England, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998. Fountain Abbey’s nave continues to impress – despite its grassy floor and open-air ceiling (below).
YORKSHIRE AND THE HUMBER – NORTH YORKSHIRE
173
LIVERPOOL
186 NORTH WEST ENGLAND – MERSEYSIDE
Liverpool received its town charter as early as
cotton and sugar for transportation to Liverpool.
1207, but remained a fishing village for 500 long
Even after slavery was abolished in 1807, docks
years. Only when slave trading began was the first
continued to be built – for purposes such as ship-
dock built in 1715, after which Liverpool played the
ping emigrants, primarily to America. Liverpool
most strategic role in the slave-trade triangle. It
experienced a significant boom following the arrival
was here that weapons, alcohol and textiles were
of immigrants from the Caribbean, China and, dur-
loaded and exchanged for slaves in West Africa,
ing the Great Famine of 1845 in Ireland. Six parts of
who were then taken to the Caribbean and Amer-
the city centre and port were declared World Cul-
ica, where the ships were re-loaded with tobacco,
tural Heritage sites in 2004.
LIVERPOOL
With its impressive buildings and docks, Liverpool attests to Great Britain’s rise to the rank of a world power. The docks were used until the mid-20th century, after which followed an economic downturn. The historic centre and docks were then reconstructed with EU financial aid. The five-storey warehouses today contain shops, bars, restaurants and museums.
NORTH WEST ENGLAND – MERSEYSIDE
187
ABERYSTWYTH The university town of Aberystwyth is the adminis-
town and coast. The port, into which the rivers
trative centre of the west coast of Wales. Known
Ystwyth and Rheidol flow, once played a key role in
by its residents simply as ‘Aber’, the city stretches
trade with Ireland, and sometimes even in
between three hills and two beaches. One of the
trans-Atlantic trade, though this is no longer the
hills, Pen Dinas, today still bears the ruins of an
case. Penglais Hill is home to the National Library
Iron Age fort, while on Constitution Hill, a café has
of Wales and the university, whose most famous
been joined by a camera obscura showing the city
former student is Prince Charles.
and landscape as a projection, for the view from up here provides a spectacular panorama of the
234 WALES – CEREDIGION
ABERYSTWYTH Left: The seaside promenade of Aberystwyth bathed in the glow of the setting sun. Below: Aberystwyth University, set before the 143-m(469-ft-) high Constitution Hill, which provides views stretching as far as Snowdon on a clear day. A small mountain railway built in 1896, the Aberystwyth Cliff Railway chugs up the hill at a leisurely 6 km/h (4 mph). Passengers can enjoy a stop at the hilltop cafĂŠ after the ride.
WALES – CEREDIGION
235
A trip to neighbouring Wales also offers plenty of variety. Despite its rugged nature, stunning coastline and the snow-capped mountains in Snowdonia, the “Land of the Red Dragon” is not a harsh place. The Welsh are known for their cordial nature, and visitors will find pretty villages in between the fortified castles. THE ENGLAND & WALES BOOK invites you on a visual feast of a journey through the two countries, revealing the rich diversity of both in exciting photographs and expert texts.
ISBN 978-3-95504-756-6 UK £ 25.00 US$ 34.00
ENGLAND & WALES
England is a land of history and stories. The Romans, Celts and Normans have all left their mark here, as did William Shakespeare and Charles Dickens. From the chalk cliffs in the south to the Yorkshire Dales in the north, from the dramatic spires of the gothic cathedrals in Exeter and Salisbury to the romantic cottages of the Cotswolds – England, the largest country in the United Kingdom, offers an unusual variety of sights and landscapes, ranging from the dramatic scenery of the rugged Exmoor National Park to the tranquillity of the green hills in the heart of the country. Settled since prehistoric times, England boasts rich cultural treasures. Vibrant cities like Liverpool, Manchester and, of course, London stand out with their modern architecture and exciting cultural life, while the traditional England can still be discovered in magnificent gardens and old mansion houses.
ENGLAND WALES