Foreword A little over four years ago, I took over Clémence’s flat. A few weeks later, she came back to pick up her bike and we got chatting. The conversation quickly turned to our travel bucket list and our common dream of discovering Norway, which became our first destination together and something that really made the heart beat faster! After two years living together, we discussed the option of living in a van. In 2017, we took the plunge becoming full-time digital nomads. As we were eager for a more environmentally friendly lifestyle and were in love with road travel, Drive Your Adventure was an obvious choice for us when WeVan launched the second stage of its European adventures by van. The opportunity to return to Norway seemed too good to be true, especially as the book from the first edition had already taken pride of place in our library. To put it another way, there was some serious dancing about in the middle of the restaurant when we learned we had been selected! In our own words and with Clémence’s eye for a good photo, we were going to be able to share both our way of life and our Scandinavian experience. So come on board with us and we’ll take you to Norway!
Clémence Polge and Thomas Corbet, the team for DYA #2
Foreword A little over four years ago, I took over Clémence’s flat. A few weeks later, she came back to pick up her bike and we got chatting. The conversation quickly turned to our travel bucket list and our common dream of discovering Norway, which became our first destination together and something that really made the heart beat faster! After two years living together, we discussed the option of living in a van. In 2017, we took the plunge becoming full-time digital nomads. As we were eager for a more environmentally friendly lifestyle and were in love with road travel, Drive Your Adventure was an obvious choice for us when WeVan launched the second stage of its European adventures by van. The opportunity to return to Norway seemed too good to be true, especially as the book from the first edition had already taken pride of place in our library. To put it another way, there was some serious dancing about in the middle of the restaurant when we learned we had been selected! In our own words and with Clémence’s eye for a good photo, we were going to be able to share both our way of life and our Scandinavian experience. So come on board with us and we’ll take you to Norway!
Clémence Polge and Thomas Corbet, the team for DYA #2
Contents
The High North The North-Western Islands
Preparing your Norway trip properly pages 10 to 17
Making a success of your Norwegian adventure pages 18 to 25
South Coast pages 26 to 49
The Central Region
The Great East pages 50 to 75
Categories
The South-West pages 76 to 107
The Western Fjords pages 108 to 139
The Western Fjords
Stop-overs
The Central Region pages 140 to 155
Overnight spots
The North-Western Islands pages 156 to 189
The Great East The South-West Activities
The High North pages 190 to 221
South Coast
Meet-ups
Contents
The High North The North-Western Islands
Preparing your Norway trip properly pages 10 to 17
Making a success of your Norwegian adventure pages 18 to 25
South Coast pages 26 to 49
The Central Region
The Great East pages 50 to 75
Categories
The South-West pages 76 to 107
The Western Fjords pages 108 to 139
The Western Fjords
Stop-overs
The Central Region pages 140 to 155
Overnight spots
The North-Western Islands pages 156 to 189
The Great East The South-West Activities
The High North pages 190 to 221
South Coast
Meet-ups
P r e pa r i n g fo r th e j o u r n ey: be for e t h e r oad t r ip
Prepari ng for the jou rney : before the road tri p
Preparing your Norway trip properly
Climate From a climate point of view, Norway is one huge paradox. You might expect hostile, cold weather but the country is actually quite temperate. This is particularly true along the coasts, where the influence of the Gulf Stream is very much in evidence: although the Baltic Sea freezes in winter, further south, the Norwegian coastline never gets caught up in ice. Conditions inland are much harsher, however, which is why many roads are closed during the winter months. So you’re advised to visit the country between April and October, especially as you will enjoy the long – very long – days during this period, particularly in the north of the country from May to July, when the sun doesn’t set at all. The only downside to this climate, which is in the final analysis pretty mild, is that it rains all year round!
The main regions of Norway
Norway has only been independent since 1905, but it has a long history, from which it has inherited its administrative subdivisions. Long before the country’s emancipation, the territory was in fact under Danish control, run by the jarls – a rank equivalent to a count. Norway is divided into eighteen fylker, the largest administrative subdivision (such as Finnmark, Hordaland, Telemark, etc.). Each fylke is then divided into kommuner or municipalities. From a purely geographical point of view, though, the national territory is divided into five large regions, the landsdeler: Nord-Norge, encompassing the whole of the northern part of the country Midt-Norge (or Trøndelag): the Trondheim region Vestlandet, the south-west of the country, which is where most of the famous fjords are to be found Østlandet, the south-eastern part containing Oslo, the capital city Sørlandet, the southernmost point. To let us stick as closely as possible to our experience and to balance the various parts of our narrative, we decided to divide our journey into seven zones, which we’ll let you discover as you turn the pages!
Nord-Norge
Midt-Norge
Vestlandet Østlandet
Sørlandet
10
The administrative formalities
Health
Although Norway is not part of the European Union, it has a close relationship with the EU as a member of the European Free Trade Association (EFTA) and the European Economic Area (EEA). This guarantees the same freedoms as in the EU, including the freedom of movement of people (which is relevant for us). So a visa is not required for citizens of EU countries (including the UK at the time of writing) to stay in Norway. They do need to have a valid identity document, though (a European ID card or passport). And last but not least, an EU driving licence – including UK at the time of writing – is valid in Norway (and can even be exchanged for a Norwegian one if you plan to settle there). All you have to do is check that your van’s insurance covers Norway as well as the countries you’re travelling through!
You may not necessarily want to think about it when planning your trip, but it’s always better to be prepared for any eventuality. All the more so when it comes to health. There are two solutions available to travellers: – a European Health Insurance Card (which you can get through your usual channels) to cover your health expenses and get access to care without having to make advance payments, in the same way as Norwegians who are insured – retrospective reimbursement through your usual health insurance company So much for the administrative bits. Now you get the more medical bit. That means vaccinations (we were just as surprised as you are!) – principally against tick-borne encephalitis if you’re planning excursions in the countryside or forests (these small parasites have tended to proliferate in recent years). The guidebooks don’t tell you 11
P r e pa r i n g fo r th e j o u r n ey: be for e t h e r oad t r ip
Prepari ng for the jou rney : before the road tri p
Preparing your Norway trip properly
Climate From a climate point of view, Norway is one huge paradox. You might expect hostile, cold weather but the country is actually quite temperate. This is particularly true along the coasts, where the influence of the Gulf Stream is very much in evidence: although the Baltic Sea freezes in winter, further south, the Norwegian coastline never gets caught up in ice. Conditions inland are much harsher, however, which is why many roads are closed during the winter months. So you’re advised to visit the country between April and October, especially as you will enjoy the long – very long – days during this period, particularly in the north of the country from May to July, when the sun doesn’t set at all. The only downside to this climate, which is in the final analysis pretty mild, is that it rains all year round!
The main regions of Norway
Norway has only been independent since 1905, but it has a long history, from which it has inherited its administrative subdivisions. Long before the country’s emancipation, the territory was in fact under Danish control, run by the jarls – a rank equivalent to a count. Norway is divided into eighteen fylker, the largest administrative subdivision (such as Finnmark, Hordaland, Telemark, etc.). Each fylke is then divided into kommuner or municipalities. From a purely geographical point of view, though, the national territory is divided into five large regions, the landsdeler: Nord-Norge, encompassing the whole of the northern part of the country Midt-Norge (or Trøndelag): the Trondheim region Vestlandet, the south-west of the country, which is where most of the famous fjords are to be found Østlandet, the south-eastern part containing Oslo, the capital city Sørlandet, the southernmost point. To let us stick as closely as possible to our experience and to balance the various parts of our narrative, we decided to divide our journey into seven zones, which we’ll let you discover as you turn the pages!
Nord-Norge
Midt-Norge
Vestlandet Østlandet
Sørlandet
10
The administrative formalities
Health
Although Norway is not part of the European Union, it has a close relationship with the EU as a member of the European Free Trade Association (EFTA) and the European Economic Area (EEA). This guarantees the same freedoms as in the EU, including the freedom of movement of people (which is relevant for us). So a visa is not required for citizens of EU countries (including the UK at the time of writing) to stay in Norway. They do need to have a valid identity document, though (a European ID card or passport). And last but not least, an EU driving licence – including UK at the time of writing – is valid in Norway (and can even be exchanged for a Norwegian one if you plan to settle there). All you have to do is check that your van’s insurance covers Norway as well as the countries you’re travelling through!
You may not necessarily want to think about it when planning your trip, but it’s always better to be prepared for any eventuality. All the more so when it comes to health. There are two solutions available to travellers: – a European Health Insurance Card (which you can get through your usual channels) to cover your health expenses and get access to care without having to make advance payments, in the same way as Norwegians who are insured – retrospective reimbursement through your usual health insurance company So much for the administrative bits. Now you get the more medical bit. That means vaccinations (we were just as surprised as you are!) – principally against tick-borne encephalitis if you’re planning excursions in the countryside or forests (these small parasites have tended to proliferate in recent years). The guidebooks don’t tell you 11
Th e G r e a t E a s t • O s l o a n d sur r oun d in g s
Oslo
The Great Eas t • O s lo and s u rrou ndi ngs
Grünerløkka is also the ideal base for getting to the actual city centre, in part thanks to the tramways that criss-cross the city. You can then easily get to Aker Brygge, the old industrial docks where the red-brick buildings have been renovated and converted into restaurants and shops. This is where you will find the Nobel Peace Center and the Astrup Fearnley museum of contemporary art.
Even if you think travelling by camper van is all about escaping urban life, you should still visit Oslo. This capital city is on a human scale with ‘only’ just over 600,000 inhabitants spread across fifteen administrative districts and seventeen boroughs (Sentrum and Marka are not official administrative units). We particularly liked Grünerløkka. That was where we parked to take a walk around: the parking spaces may not be free but at least there are some! Grünerløkka could be described as Oslo’s hipster, bohemian district. We arrived on the day that a gastronomic festival was being held – obviously! Having said that, you don’t need a festival to find some great places here.
Down the road - C2C
If you’re looking for peace and quiet, you can take the van or get the ferry or bus to Bygdøy peninsula where you will find various museums. They include one dedicated to Viking longships, the drakkar, or the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History with its reconstructed stave church and traditional dwellings. There is something for everyone in Oslo!
53
Th e G r e a t E a s t • O s l o a n d sur r oun d in g s
Oslo
The Great Eas t • O s lo and s u rrou ndi ngs
Grünerløkka is also the ideal base for getting to the actual city centre, in part thanks to the tramways that criss-cross the city. You can then easily get to Aker Brygge, the old industrial docks where the red-brick buildings have been renovated and converted into restaurants and shops. This is where you will find the Nobel Peace Center and the Astrup Fearnley museum of contemporary art.
Even if you think travelling by camper van is all about escaping urban life, you should still visit Oslo. This capital city is on a human scale with ‘only’ just over 600,000 inhabitants spread across fifteen administrative districts and seventeen boroughs (Sentrum and Marka are not official administrative units). We particularly liked Grünerløkka. That was where we parked to take a walk around: the parking spaces may not be free but at least there are some! Grünerløkka could be described as Oslo’s hipster, bohemian district. We arrived on the day that a gastronomic festival was being held – obviously! Having said that, you don’t need a festival to find some great places here.
Down the road - C2C
If you’re looking for peace and quiet, you can take the van or get the ferry or bus to Bygdøy peninsula where you will find various museums. They include one dedicated to Viking longships, the drakkar, or the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History with its reconstructed stave church and traditional dwellings. There is something for everyone in Oslo!
53
Th e G r e a t E a s t • O s l o an d sur r oun d in g s
Overnight spot 5 9 ° 5 8 ’ 14 . 4 8 4 ’’ N | 10° 4 4 ’ 2 .37 4 ’’ E
Oslo The closer you get to a major conglomeration, the harder it is to find an overnight spot in rural surroundings. It should also be said that after a day spent walking around Oslo in the pouring rain, we weren’t particularly keen on driving in circles for hours to find the perfect place to park. As it happened, the car park on Sognsvann Lake is not only flat but also huge. We had no trou-
The Great Eas t • O s lo and s u rrou ndi ngs
Grimstad & Lillesand
ble finding a quiet spot! Now, at the start of September, we were experiencing a downpour of Biblical proportions (we were told they had even had flooding in the south of the country!), which made it the perfect moment for a warm, cosy evening reading and watching movies cocooned in Lagertha.
If you take Oslo as your starting point, there is a nice loop you can do through the south-eastern region. The first section involves taking the E18 out of the city and driving west along the coast. In the right season, you can make little detours from time to time to dip your toes in the water. But we were in mid-September by this point and Norway was already in the throes of autumn. Our afternoon swims were very much a thing of the past!
ty white houses, shops, cafés and restaurant. These two attractive towns were nice to walk around in... and great spots for trying artisanal ice cream, because it’s always the right season for ice cream! This first part of the loop takes you straight to Kristiansand, where you can park your wheels for the night in a small marina that might seem familiar (see page 30). Before heading north.
But never mind, there were other attractions along the route, such as the small towns of Grimstad and Lillesand with their marinas, pret54
Don’t let it pass - Junip
Th e G r e a t E a s t • O s l o an d sur r oun d in g s
Overnight spot 5 9 ° 5 8 ’ 14 . 4 8 4 ’’ N | 10° 4 4 ’ 2 .37 4 ’’ E
Oslo The closer you get to a major conglomeration, the harder it is to find an overnight spot in rural surroundings. It should also be said that after a day spent walking around Oslo in the pouring rain, we weren’t particularly keen on driving in circles for hours to find the perfect place to park. As it happened, the car park on Sognsvann Lake is not only flat but also huge. We had no trou-
The Great Eas t • O s lo and s u rrou ndi ngs
Grimstad & Lillesand
ble finding a quiet spot! Now, at the start of September, we were experiencing a downpour of Biblical proportions (we were told they had even had flooding in the south of the country!), which made it the perfect moment for a warm, cosy evening reading and watching movies cocooned in Lagertha.
If you take Oslo as your starting point, there is a nice loop you can do through the south-eastern region. The first section involves taking the E18 out of the city and driving west along the coast. In the right season, you can make little detours from time to time to dip your toes in the water. But we were in mid-September by this point and Norway was already in the throes of autumn. Our afternoon swims were very much a thing of the past!
ty white houses, shops, cafés and restaurant. These two attractive towns were nice to walk around in... and great spots for trying artisanal ice cream, because it’s always the right season for ice cream! This first part of the loop takes you straight to Kristiansand, where you can park your wheels for the night in a small marina that might seem familiar (see page 30). Before heading north.
But never mind, there were other attractions along the route, such as the small towns of Grimstad and Lillesand with their marinas, pret54
Don’t let it pass - Junip
Th e G r e a t E a s t • O s l o a n d sur r oun d in g s
The Great Eas t • O s lo and s u rrou ndi ngs
56
57
Th e G r e a t E a s t • O s l o a n d sur r oun d in g s
The Great Eas t • O s lo and s u rrou ndi ngs
56
57
Th e G r e a t E a s t • O s l o a n d sur r oun d in g s
Route 9
The Great Eas t • O s lo and s u rrou ndi ngs
This solution not only has excellent insulating properties but also makes the houses and bus shelters seem like something from a fairy tale (if there are any fairy tales that feature some kind of public transport, that is). And do you call the roofer or the gardener when you’ve got a leak? But we digress... And for those who enjoy digressing, but this time in a camper van, we can recommend the FV304 and FV323 roads, which go round Byglandsfjord and Araksfjord on the opposite side to Route 9: they may be even narrower but they are also even more stunning! If you get back onto Route 9 and then turn onto the 45, that will let you spend the night in Dalen. You could even stay in its amazing hotel if you are feeling flush. Or you could just pose for a photo in front of its facade and then choose the more reasonable option of the campsite!
After driving along the coast from Oslo to Kristiansand, Route 9 takes you through very different scenery and marks a complete break with the summery atmosphere (at least, for those lucky enough to have got some sun) of the coastal villages along the previous section. The countryside along Route 9 could almost be described as Canadian, with dense forests, fir trees, mountains, lakes – the lot! But Route 9 is mainly famous for the many houses you can see with turf roofs. It’s a simple enough idea: you cover the building with a layer of earth in which moss grows, or other low-growing vegetation or even small trees sometimes.
58
Hedwig’s Theme - John Williams
Th e G r e a t E a s t • O s l o a n d sur r oun d in g s
Route 9
The Great Eas t • O s lo and s u rrou ndi ngs
This solution not only has excellent insulating properties but also makes the houses and bus shelters seem like something from a fairy tale (if there are any fairy tales that feature some kind of public transport, that is). And do you call the roofer or the gardener when you’ve got a leak? But we digress... And for those who enjoy digressing, but this time in a camper van, we can recommend the FV304 and FV323 roads, which go round Byglandsfjord and Araksfjord on the opposite side to Route 9: they may be even narrower but they are also even more stunning! If you get back onto Route 9 and then turn onto the 45, that will let you spend the night in Dalen. You could even stay in its amazing hotel if you are feeling flush. Or you could just pose for a photo in front of its facade and then choose the more reasonable option of the campsite!
After driving along the coast from Oslo to Kristiansand, Route 9 takes you through very different scenery and marks a complete break with the summery atmosphere (at least, for those lucky enough to have got some sun) of the coastal villages along the previous section. The countryside along Route 9 could almost be described as Canadian, with dense forests, fir trees, mountains, lakes – the lot! But Route 9 is mainly famous for the many houses you can see with turf roofs. It’s a simple enough idea: you cover the building with a layer of earth in which moss grows, or other low-growing vegetation or even small trees sometimes.
58
Hedwig’s Theme - John Williams
Th e N o r th -We s t e r n I s l a n d s • L ofot e n & Ve st e råle n
The North-Wes tern Is lands • Lofoten & Ves terålen
A Gipsy in the Kitchen
here we were, meeting up rather sooner than we’d expected.
Today’s word: serendipity. Which you could define as the art of making a happy discovery (traditionally in the scientific world) thanks to a stroke of luck. Like Alexander Fleming’s discovery of penicillin, to give one famous example.
As Alice is a chef with her own restaurant in Milan when the couple aren’t on the road, we were happy to let her choose where to descend on for the evening. That was Maren Anna, not far from Å. A seriously cool establishment, where everything is cooked on site, including the bread. And you’d kill for the cinnamon waffles! Letting the professional follow her instincts paid off!
The equivalent discovery for us was Alice and Alessandro (not forgetting their dogs Brie and Baku), known to the world as the crew A Gipsy in the Kitchen. Having run into one another queuing for the ferry and then again during the crossing, we soon hit it off and exchanged contact details for a meet-up while exploring the islands. And 16 6
Quite apart from the meal, we had a really great evening with our new friends. We’d met barely 24 hours ago, yet we felt we’d known them for years. We returned together and decided to spend the night in the car park adjoining their cabin before joining them again for breakfast. New observation: even scrambled eggs can taste totally different when cooked by a chef. One shower later and it was time to say goodbye, with a promise of meeting up again soon, whether in Norway, Italy or France.
One of these things first - Nick Drake
Th e N o r th -We s t e r n I s l a n d s • L ofot e n & Ve st e råle n
The North-Wes tern Is lands • Lofoten & Ves terålen
A Gipsy in the Kitchen
here we were, meeting up rather sooner than we’d expected.
Today’s word: serendipity. Which you could define as the art of making a happy discovery (traditionally in the scientific world) thanks to a stroke of luck. Like Alexander Fleming’s discovery of penicillin, to give one famous example.
As Alice is a chef with her own restaurant in Milan when the couple aren’t on the road, we were happy to let her choose where to descend on for the evening. That was Maren Anna, not far from Å. A seriously cool establishment, where everything is cooked on site, including the bread. And you’d kill for the cinnamon waffles! Letting the professional follow her instincts paid off!
The equivalent discovery for us was Alice and Alessandro (not forgetting their dogs Brie and Baku), known to the world as the crew A Gipsy in the Kitchen. Having run into one another queuing for the ferry and then again during the crossing, we soon hit it off and exchanged contact details for a meet-up while exploring the islands. And 16 6
Quite apart from the meal, we had a really great evening with our new friends. We’d met barely 24 hours ago, yet we felt we’d known them for years. We returned together and decided to spend the night in the car park adjoining their cabin before joining them again for breakfast. New observation: even scrambled eggs can taste totally different when cooked by a chef. One shower later and it was time to say goodbye, with a promise of meeting up again soon, whether in Norway, Italy or France.
One of these things first - Nick Drake
Th e N o r th -We s t e r n I s l a n d s • L ofot e n & Ve st e råle n
Lofoten, a hikers’ paradise
The North-Wes tern Is lands • Lofoten & Ves terålen
923 metres/3,030 feet. From the beach to the top of the mountain with 360° views of Vestvågøya when you get there!
• Varden summit (‘cairn’ in Norwegian), Vestvågøya. A round trip of 5.6 kilometres/3.5 miles (three to four hours). You climb 578 metres (1,900 feet) passing various lakes. At the top, magnificent views of the Lofoten islands.
• Kangerurtinden summit, Vestvågøya. A round trip in completely wild country, all the more so as the trail is barely visible (make sure you respect the environment). Just two to three hours of intense hiking, barely 5 kilometres/3 miles to reach an altitude of 702 metres/2,300 feet.
• Hellostinden summit, Vestvågøya. A longer hike of 8.5 kilometres/5.3 miles, this round trip offers spectacular views from start to finish. The views of Austvågøya from the top are well worth the extra effort!
• Hellsegga plateau, Moskenesøya. Very much for the purists as the starting point can only be reached by boat or sea kayak. A loop of almost 7 kilometres/4.3 miles that takes five to six hours and reaches a maximum height of 614 metres/2,010 feet. It’s a real adventure, with the feeling of being in a different world when you get to the top.
For experienced hikers (level: intermediate) • Kvalvika beach and Ryten summit, Moskenesøya. An iconic Lofoten trail that takes you to the islands’ loveliest beach (Kvalvika, meaning “whales’ beach”). It’s 10 kilometres (6 miles, five hours) with a maximum altitude of 270 metres/900 feet (or twice that and an additional two hours if you go for the option of climbing Ryten). Peace and quiet are guaranteed at Kvalvika as it can only be reached by foot!
time! As we did nevertheless research the subject, here are some hiking trails that we found.
We’ve said it often enough but still we feel we’ve barely touched on the subject: the beauty of this archipelago is surreal. You have to visit it to appreciate that. On this subject, nothing beats a hike if you want to enjoy the unique panoramic views of the Lofoten islands.
For family hikes (level: easy) • Nordlandsnupen summit, Værøya. A round trip of 4 kilometres/2.5 miles (three hours), very straightforward. It takes you to an altitude of 457 metres (1,500 feet) where you have magnificent views of the southern point of Moskenesøya. You can reach the little island of Værøya by ferry from Moskenes.
But unfortunately there would be no hiking for us. Given our tight schedule and weather conditions that were changeable at best, every time we fancied a steep climb we had to regretfully conclude that we would be staying at sea level. The high altitude would have to wait for another
17 0
• Middagstinden summit, Vestvågøya. Three to four hours of hiking (nearly 9 kilometres or over 5 miles) to get to a summit of 694 metres/2,280 feet. Basically a trail along a ridge for breath-taking views. • Kvittinden summit, Austvågøya. A round trip of 9.3 kilometres/5.8 miles (four to five hours) and an altitude of 681 metres/2,230 feet at the top. A trail through wild country surrounded by classic mountain scenery with lakes and ridges.
For serious, dedicated hikers (level: difficult) • Himmeltinden summit, Vestvågøya. A climb for 7.7 kilometres/4.8 miles that takes about five hours, taking you to the ‘summit in the sky’ at 171
Th e N o r th -We s t e r n I s l a n d s • L ofot e n & Ve st e råle n
Lofoten, a hikers’ paradise
The North-Wes tern Is lands • Lofoten & Ves terålen
923 metres/3,030 feet. From the beach to the top of the mountain with 360° views of Vestvågøya when you get there!
• Varden summit (‘cairn’ in Norwegian), Vestvågøya. A round trip of 5.6 kilometres/3.5 miles (three to four hours). You climb 578 metres (1,900 feet) passing various lakes. At the top, magnificent views of the Lofoten islands.
• Kangerurtinden summit, Vestvågøya. A round trip in completely wild country, all the more so as the trail is barely visible (make sure you respect the environment). Just two to three hours of intense hiking, barely 5 kilometres/3 miles to reach an altitude of 702 metres/2,300 feet.
• Hellostinden summit, Vestvågøya. A longer hike of 8.5 kilometres/5.3 miles, this round trip offers spectacular views from start to finish. The views of Austvågøya from the top are well worth the extra effort!
• Hellsegga plateau, Moskenesøya. Very much for the purists as the starting point can only be reached by boat or sea kayak. A loop of almost 7 kilometres/4.3 miles that takes five to six hours and reaches a maximum height of 614 metres/2,010 feet. It’s a real adventure, with the feeling of being in a different world when you get to the top.
For experienced hikers (level: intermediate) • Kvalvika beach and Ryten summit, Moskenesøya. An iconic Lofoten trail that takes you to the islands’ loveliest beach (Kvalvika, meaning “whales’ beach”). It’s 10 kilometres (6 miles, five hours) with a maximum altitude of 270 metres/900 feet (or twice that and an additional two hours if you go for the option of climbing Ryten). Peace and quiet are guaranteed at Kvalvika as it can only be reached by foot!
time! As we did nevertheless research the subject, here are some hiking trails that we found.
We’ve said it often enough but still we feel we’ve barely touched on the subject: the beauty of this archipelago is surreal. You have to visit it to appreciate that. On this subject, nothing beats a hike if you want to enjoy the unique panoramic views of the Lofoten islands.
For family hikes (level: easy) • Nordlandsnupen summit, Værøya. A round trip of 4 kilometres/2.5 miles (three hours), very straightforward. It takes you to an altitude of 457 metres (1,500 feet) where you have magnificent views of the southern point of Moskenesøya. You can reach the little island of Værøya by ferry from Moskenes.
But unfortunately there would be no hiking for us. Given our tight schedule and weather conditions that were changeable at best, every time we fancied a steep climb we had to regretfully conclude that we would be staying at sea level. The high altitude would have to wait for another
17 0
• Middagstinden summit, Vestvågøya. Three to four hours of hiking (nearly 9 kilometres or over 5 miles) to get to a summit of 694 metres/2,280 feet. Basically a trail along a ridge for breath-taking views. • Kvittinden summit, Austvågøya. A round trip of 9.3 kilometres/5.8 miles (four to five hours) and an altitude of 681 metres/2,230 feet at the top. A trail through wild country surrounded by classic mountain scenery with lakes and ridges.
For serious, dedicated hikers (level: difficult) • Himmeltinden summit, Vestvågøya. A climb for 7.7 kilometres/4.8 miles that takes about five hours, taking you to the ‘summit in the sky’ at 171