Discover France

THE BEST TRAVEL ROUTES UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES DETAILED TRAVEL ATLAS

France is a country with a rich and fascinating past as well as a legendary art of living – its savoir vivre – which makes every day of travel in that country a special experience. Its regional diversity is amazing – from Brittany with its Celtic and Gallic culture and the romantic Alsace, via the bustling world city of Paris and the Champagne region with its limestone landscapes, to the many enchanting châteaux of the Loire, as well as Burgundy with its great culinary traditions, right up to the high mountains of the Pyrenees and the Alps, which boast Europe’s highest mountain, and onto the fragrant Midi and the spectacular coasts of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic.

“Discover France” presents this mesmerizing European country in all its glorious variety. The first, more extensive section in the book explores the country by following the twelve “most scenic drives” – whether this be along the classic routes, such as the Via Turonensis pilgrim trail, or off the beaten track, such as through the Massif Central. To finish, the book contains detailed descriptions of the historic city centers, monuments and natural landscapes in France that have now been declared UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage Sites.

With informative texts, some 600 color photos, detailed route maps and a indexed France travel atlas, “Discover France” provides an extensive overview of the spellbinding diversity you can expect to find here, encouraging you to set off and explore its attractions yourself.

Pages 2–3: The Eiffel Tower seen from the Alexandre III Seine bridge in Paris.

Pages 4–5: The Château of Saumur towers like a

picture-postcard castle high above the lower Loire Valley.

This page: Italian joie de vivre can be felt in the Old Town of Menton on the Côte d’Azur.

THE MOST SCENIC DRIVES Route 1: Across the North of France Route 2: Normandy and Brittany Route 3: The Champagne Region Route 4: Through Burgundy Route 5: On the Road in Alsace Route 6: Via Turonensis Route 7: Limousin, Dordogne, Périgord Route 8: Roussillon, the Pyrenees, Aquitaine Route 9: Through the Massif Central Route 10: Côte d’Azur, Provence, Rhône-Alpes Route 11: The Mediterranean Coast Route 12: A Tour of Corsica

12 30 44 60 84 98 124 144 160 174 188 206

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE

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Belfries of Belgium and France The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier

218 218

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Fortifications of Vauban Nord-Pas de Calais Mining Basin Amiens Cathedral Cathedral of Notre-Dame, former Abbey of St-Remi and Palace of Tau, Reims The Climats, Terroirs of Burgundy Champagne Hillsides, Houses and Cellars Mont-Saint-Michel Le Havre Palace and Park of Versailles Paris, Banks of the Seine Palace and Park of Fontainebleau The Loire Valley between Sully-sur-Loire and Chalonnes Provins, Town of Medieval Fairs Chartres Cathedral Place Stanislas, Place de la Carrière and Place d’Alliance in Nancy Cistercian Abbey of Fontenay Strasbourg, Grande Île

219 219 220 221 222 223 224 225 226 227 228 229 230 231 232 233 234

Vézelay, Church and Hill Bourges Cathedral The Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans Abbey Church of St-Savin sur Gartempe Vézère Valley, Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves Historic Site of Lyon Jurisdiction of St-Émilion Historic Center of Bordeaux Episcopal City of Albi The Causses and Cevennes Roman Theatre and the “Triumphal Arch” of Orange Pont du Gard Arles, Roman and Romanesque Monuments Decorated Cave of Pont d’Arc, known as Grotte Chauvet-Pont d’Arc, Ardèche Papal Palace and Historic Center of Avignon Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps

235 236 237 238 239 240 241 242 243 243

Canal du Midi Historic Fortified City of Carcassonne Pyrenees – Mont Perdu Gulf of Porto Pitons, cirques and remparts of Réunion Island Lagoons of New Caledonia Taputapuatea

250 251 252 253 254

TRAVEL ATLAS FRANCE INDEX ATLAS INDEX ROUTES PICTURE CREDIT/IMPRINT

256 432 462 464

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244 245 246 246 247 248 249

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France’s Most Scenic Drives It would be a shame to stay in just one place when you’re in France – instead you should drive along its charming country roads and explore the country. The twelve routes described here range from a tour along the chic and urbane Mediterranean coast to degustation and exploration in the Champagne, from a drive along the storm-battered Atlantic coast to a journey around the wildly romantic island of Corsica, from the Route Napoleon through the French Alps to the Route des Vins around the vineyards of the Alsace.

Route 7

An underground lake in the bizarre cave world of the Gouffre de Padirac.

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The buildings in the pilgrimage site Rocamadour look chiseled out of the rock.

5 Gouffre de Padirac The

karst of the Causse de Gramat conceals, at about 100 m (328 ft) depth, an extensive system of caves, lakes and a river. The corridors that are known today extend over more than 20 km (12.5 mi).

Access to this subterranean world is via a 32-m-wide (105-ft) chasm, which opens out to a rubble cone at a depth of 75 m (246 ft). From there you descend another 28 m (92 ft) to the underground river.

Open to the public at the bottom of the cave are some 400 m (437 yds) to walk on foot and a further 500 m (547 yds) by boat. Flat-bottom boats take visitors across the crystal-clear water, at a constant temperature of 11°C (51.8°F), into a unique fairytale world.

At the end of the boat trip, is the surprising Grande Pendeloque and the Lac de la Pluie (rain lake). This stalactite is part of a 78-m-high (256-ft) sinter formation. The Grand Pilar is 40 m (131 ft) tall, while the Salle du Grand Dôme has an overwhelming 91-m-high (299-ft) cupola.

Via the village of Padirac and the D 673 you’ll reach a spectacular pilgrimage destination.

6 Rocamadour The small

town was built in a breathtaking location into the walls of a

rock rising some 150 m (492 ft) above the Alzou. It is not known whether Saint Amadour ever really existed, but this has not dented his reputation. Until the Reformation the pilgrimage to the obscure saint was one of the most famous in Christendom.

A “Black Madonna” has been here since the 13th century, venerated today in the Notre-Dame Chapel. The St-Michel Chapel is richly decorated inside and out with frescoes. Those on the exterior walls date from the 12th century, those in the choir from the 13th.

To appreciate the extent of the entire complex you’ll have to climb the 233 steps of the Via Sancta, not forgetting a visit to the Musée d’Art sacré Francis Poulenc. The treasury holds objects of the pilgrimage treasure.

The D 673 and the D 820 now take you to Cahors, beautifully located in a bend of the Lot. 7 Cahors The capital of the

Quercy and of the Lot département was in the 13th century one of the largest cities in France, and traders from Lombardy made it the foremost banking center in Europe. This proud past is still evident today when you approach the city via

the magnificent seven-arched Pont Valentré. A grand testimony to medieval fortification, it boasts three towers, each 40 m (131 ft) high and still featuring machicolations. The two outer towers also had lockable gates and portcullises, while the central tower housed the command post.

Cahors’ St-Étienne Cathedral is one of the most unusual domes churches in the South-West.

Its Romanesque nave was enlarged by Gothic chapels in the 13th century, while the façade was not completed until a century later. The 12th-century Romanesque north portal is impressive. In the choir and in the first dome, frescoes from the 14th century are preserved.

All around the cathedral there are numerous houses from the Gothic and Renaissance periods for you to discover.

Continue upriver along the Lot and you’ll quickly reach the next highlight.

Left: The domed cathedral of St-Étienne (12th century) in Cahors, capital of the Lot. Above: The Old Town of Cahors seems to sit on a peninsula in a bend of the Lot.

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Cahors The Pont Valentré in Cahors, today the city’s main landmark – and as such it features on the local Cahors wine bottles and corks –, is an unusual example of a medieval defense structure.

On the one hand, it serves as a bridge over the river Lot, but it once also had an unmistakable military purpose. The defense building, erected in the early 14th century, thus features three

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40-m-high (131-ft) towers with machicolations, while the bridge piers have also been reinforced with tapering bastions.

The bridge itself was never actually captured. A legend surrounding a pact made with the devil during construction is told by the keystone subsequently placed in the central bridge tower, which depicts the devil trying in vain to rip out the stone.

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Route 7 The chapterhouse of a monastery destroyed by the Protestants became the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Pitié in Figeac in 1622.

8 Grotte du Pech-Merle

The dripstone cave is particularly fascinating thanks to its prehistoric wall paintings, dating back to about 20,000 years. Several halls follow one another along 1,200 m (1,312 yds) of cave.

The Chapelle des Mammouths depicts larger-than-life mammoths, and in one corridor you can see the renowned spotted horses. The Galerie de l’Ours has impressive stalacmite columns, and the Salle de Combel contains the bones of cave bears. At the Musée Amédée-Lemozi you can gain an insight into the preand early history of the Quercy.

A few miles farther south, on the left bank of the Lot, you’ll enter a medieval world.

9 Saint-Cirq-Lapopie Cas-

tle and village are huddled around an 80-m-high (262-ft) rock above the Lot. The village

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owes its double name to its patron saint, Saint Cyrus, and to the aristocratic La Popie family, who ruled here in the Middle Ages. The once mighty fortress was demolished by Henry of Navarre in 1580.

The ruins do, however, still afford magnificent views from the highest point of the rock.

The vast village church was built as a fortified structure in the 16th century. St-Cirq-Lapopie’s narrow lanes are lined with Gothic timber-framed houses.

Many now have restaurants, art galleries and souvenir stalls.

The road along the Lot right bank takes you to Cajarc.

0 Cajarc In this small but lively town the former French President, Georges Pompidou, had his second home. The Centre d’Art Contemporain Georges Pompidou, an arts center, was

opened here in 1989, making Cajarc one of the foremost regional centers of contemporary art. The writer Françoise Sagan was born in Cajarc.

Continuing along the right bank of the Lot, then taking the D 662, you’ll soon reach the next stop on the route, Figeac. q Figeac A stroll around this

small trading town on the Célé will again take you into a medieval environment. Many of the buildings here date from the 13th to 15th centuries. They all follow the same basic design: the ground floor is broken up by large pointed arches, a gallery runs along the floor above, and the open storage space at the top is covered by a flat roof. The 13th-century Hôtel de la Monnaie is a typical example. Also worth a visit is the Place des Écritures. A giant reproduction

of the Rosetta Stone was set in the floor here. The Stone was found during Napoleon’s Egypt campaign in 1799, and with its help Jean-François Champollion, a native son of Figeac, for the first time deciphered Egyptian hieroglyphics. The Musée Champollion is dedicated to his work.

Follow the Lot upstream until the D 901 branches off south; from here it is not far to the next stop on the route. w Conques The Abbaye de

Ste-Foy stands hidden here in remote woodland above the Dourdou River. In the ninth century, a tiny monastery stood here, while the reliquary of Sainte Foy was kept at another abbey, in Agen. It was then stolen by a monk from the Conques Abbey who thus transformed the place into a destination for pilgrims and a stop on the way to San-

This 15th-century burial scene in the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Rodez was worked in polychrome stone.

with rock crystals and gems. The body of the statue dates from the ninth century, the head probably from the fifth century. The reliquary shrine was allegedly donated by Charlemagne.

From Conques continue south on the D 901 which will take you directly to Rodez. e Rodez The Aveyron flows

tiago de Compostela in Spain.

The pilgrims brought with them the wealth that made it possible to build this beautiful basilica church between 1050 and 1135.

Its central nave soars up 22 m (72 ft) and has three arched floors. The columns count no fewer than 250 richly adorned

capitals. The tympanum depicting the Last Judgment is one of the masterpieces of medieval sculpting. The treasury at Conques is also unique; it contains precious items from the ninth to the 16th centuries. The most valuable piece is a gold-plated reliquary of Sainte Foy, studded

around the town which clearly demonstrates the medieval separation of worldly and clerical powers. The Place du Bourg is the commercial center, while the Place de la Cité next to the cathedral the spiritual heart. Originally built as a fortified church in the 13th century, the cathedral with its fortress-like west façade clearly dominates the town. Its walls are made from a reddish sandstone which glows in the right light as if illuminat-

ed from inside. The 87-m-high (285-ft) tower is adorned with a tip reminiscent of a stone flower bouquet. The Gothic interior is characterized by rows of tall columns. Eye catchers are an excellently worked 16th-century rood screen and an entombment made from polychrome stone.

The choir stalls feature rich carvings dating from the 15th century and depicting many a strange creature – a winged lion can be seen and also a naughty boy baring his behind.

The N 88 takes you in a southwesterly direction to Albi.

Top: The castle ruins, the fortified church and the houses of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie sit perched on an 80-m-high (-ft) rock above the Lot. Left: Ste-Foy Abbey in Conques, charmingly nestled into green hills.

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Les Étangs

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AISC

REUTIN

Rötenbach Peterzell Pochenmü

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