Café Culture

Robert Schneider

Ca fĂŠ Culture For Lovers of Coffee and Good Design

|||| Contents |||| 6 Foreword

98 The Coffee Collective

180 Paramount Coffee Project

Todd Heiser

Copenhagen, Denmark

Sydney, Australia

8 Introduction

104 Coffee for Sasquatch

188 Pilot Coffee Roasters

Robert Schneider

Los Angeles, United States

Toronto, Canada

110 Coutume Café

196 Public Space

Paris, France

Amsterdam, the Netherlands

116 Dolcezza at the Hirshhorn

202 Revolver

Washington D.C., United States

Vancouver, Canada

122 Drop Coffee

208 Seven Coffee

Stockholm, Sweden

Changzhou, China

128 EZER Coffee

214 Sightglass Coffee Roasters

Seoul, South Korea

San Francisco, United States

136 Houndstooth Coffee

222 Skye Coffee

Dallas, United States

Barcelona, Spain

144 Intelligentsia Coffee

228 Supreme Supreme

Boston, United States

Christchurch, New Zealand

150 Manufact Coffee Roasters

234 Vacation

Seoul, South Korea

Melbourne, Australia

156 Nice Coffee

238 Verve Coffee Roasters

Los Angeles, United States

Los Angeles, United States

160 NOC Coffee–Gough Street

242 Voice of Coffee

Hong Kong, China

Kobe, Japan

20 % Arabica Kyoto, Japan

26 ACOFFEE Melbourne, Australia

32 Anthracite Coffee Roasters Seoul, South Korea

38 APF. KAFE Guangzhou, China

46 The Association London, United Kingdom

52 Big Small Coffee Beijing, China

58 Bistro Proti Proudu Prague, Czech Republic

66 Blue Bottle Coffee Tokyo, Japan

72 Bonanza Coffee Roasters Berlin, Germany

78 BUNA café rico Mexico City, Mexico

86 Clark St Coffee Melbourne, Australia

92 Code Black Coffee Melbourne, Australia

166 NOC Coffee–Roastery Hong Kong, China

172 Origin Coffee Roasters London, United Kingdom

176 Orsonero Coffee Milan, Italy

248 251 252 254

Acknowledgments About the Author Design and Photography Credits Index of Cafés

Foreword Todd Heiser

“We should get coffee sometime.” We hear and say this phrase

is, at that exact moment, being brewed fresh. When the barista

constantly: when we run into an old friend on the street, when

who takes your order goes on to carefully craft your drink, the

we network, when we meet someone intriguing and want to get to

barrier between transaction and product is removed; the intimacy

know them in a low-pressure setting. We should get coffee has become

of watching someone make something by hand, just for you, is

cultural shorthand for “We should spend time together. Let’s talk,

intensely palpable in that moment. And though music plays through

let’s stay awhile.”

a speaker overhead, the whirl of the grinder is at the forefront, reminding you that someone else is enjoying this ritual, too.

It makes sense that coffee is the drink we gather around. It’s simultaneously comforting and energizing, it can be enjoyed

Coffee shops breed connection because they are public spaces

morning or evening by young and old, and though it starts with

where we feel relaxed and are invited to linger. Even if your nose is

just two simple ingredients—water and beans—it’s endlessly

in a book or your eyes are glued to a laptop screen, you feel a sense

customizable. The best coffee shops feel like magic because they

of openness to encounter, a byproduct of what can only be described

parallel and even enhance what the coffee itself is already doing.

as the space’s acceleration of serendipity. You may choose to keep to yourself entirely, but there’s still the beautiful feeling of being alone

All design seeks to engage the senses, as sensory association maps

together—you could have stayed home but chose to spend time in a

emotion onto our experiences. Coffee shops do this without even

room full of sound, texture, and energy. It’s something you carry

trying. They’re not pumping espresso-scented air freshener through

with you when you leave. It’s why you came in the first place.

the vents, but the aroma overtakes you nonetheless because coffee

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Coffee culture, in a focused sense, is also complicated and ever-

commonplace and very popular. However, signature drinks appear

changing as it has gone through three distinct phases or waves.

to resemble espresso drinks at second-wave corporate chains—

First-wave coffee focused on mass-produced and mass-marketed

although admittedly more sophisticated and of higher quality.

coffee—a fast and cheap cup of coffee that satiates the need for that

Similarly, an independent locally owned third-wave coffee shop or a

caffeine jolt to help one get through the day. Second-wave coffee

third-wave corporate chain that mass produces, mass markets, and

shops (corporate chains) provide batch-brewed coffee and espresso

mass distributes cold brew, appears much more second wave than

drinks with syrups, toppings, and whipped-cream. Third-wave coffee

third wave—as it is what second-wave chains have always done.

shops (specialty coffee) offer craft quality coffee (often single-serve pour-over, but also batch-brewed) and espresso drinks that stand on

Capital Investments / Acquisitions The specialty coffee

their own or with various milks—no gimmicks required. These shops

industry has seen numerous examples of third-wave coffee pioneers

appreciate and respect the entire seed-to-cup process and stress

receiving significant amounts of private capital investment to fund

origin/traceability, community, relationships, direct trade, and

growth opportunities. As a result, many of these third-wave pioneers

sustainability. Third-wave operators place much significance on the

have grown in size, adding multiple store locations—essentially

entire experience and enjoyment of the coffee journey.

becoming third-wave corporate chains. Many of these industry players have been subsequently acquired by private equity firms or large coffee and food companies.

Regarding the future: Is there a fourth wave? The landscape has definitely changed but it would appear, rather than a new fourth wave, that the industry has actually reverted back to the second

The capital investment and acquisition activity taking place

wave in some ways with significant changes blurring the wave in

within the specialty coffee industry is not surprising—it happens

other ways, which are touched on below.

in all industries. However, the activity is resulting in industry consolidation that is likely to impact growers, exporters, importers,

Signature Drinks / Cold Brew The concepts of signature

and other industry players, perhaps in adverse ways. For instance,

drinks and cold brew (coffee grounds steeped with cold or room-

large companies may squeeze prices paid for green coffee beans and

temperature water over a long period of time) have become

demand more favorable transaction terms.

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CafĂŠ Culture

AC0

Melbourne, Australia

ACOFFEE operates its coffee bar and roastery in this wonderfully renovated warehouse. The bright and upbeat space is simple, minimal, and transparent in order to showcase the product—coffee!

The coffee bar is simply a long, level, low, open, and transparent white bench positioned down the middle of the space with an espresso machine, filter coffee brewing, and some seating. Welcoming—it invites interactions and conversations with baristas. Relaxing—it invites people to stay awhile and enjoy the coffee.

A wonderful design feature is the lack of a physical division between the front (coffee bar) and back (roastery) of the space—no ropes, no glass walls, no counters.

Rather, the coffee bar and the bench situated parallel to it end together to create an imaginary barrier; a visual queue that clearly identifies the roastery as a separate area while allowing an open and unimpeded space.

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CafĂŠ Culture

ACOFFEE

31

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CafĂŠ Culture

Anthracite Coffee Roasters

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The A ssociation London, United Kingdom

Herbert & Mason (Melbourne) designed The Association at 10-12 Creechurch Lane in London. The design appropriately pays homage to the history and authenticity of the building, which was originally the location for coffee and tea merchants Davison Newman & Co. The design supports, rather than distracts, from the coffee experience and is consistent with a no-nonsense approach to coffee. The design also reflects brand values of precision and beauty and instills a natural serenity that invites one to be a little more receptive and reflective.

The space is a wonderful and appropriate mix of old and new. It features old exposed brick, steel frames, and stripped wood floors. Yet, it is softly infused with modern elements, including geometrically designed table tops, a dark olive rubber surface on the coffee bar, subdued lighting, aprons by Klezinski, and chairs by designer Friso Kramer.

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Big Small Coffee Beijing, China

Big Small Coffee + Guest Room is a tiny coffee shop and guest room linked by a courtyard that allows one to experience a unique combination of coffee with authentic Chinese hútòng (alley) living—sparsely furnished high-density singlestory houses set along narrow alleys and around courtyards.

OFFICE AIO (Beijing) designed the space: modern, minimal, creative, friendly, unexpected, and original (one of a kind). The design is straightforward and easily understood resulting from careful curation of the spatial layout, its context and conditions. The end result enhances a sense of belonging—one wants to visit and stay.

The coffee shop is split lengthwise by a mirror-clad bar topped with Volga Blue granite that actually passes through a slot in the glass front façade providing a small outdoor seating area covered by a clear acrylic canopy. The wall behind the bar is covered with small white tiles—timeless and versatile they provide a bright backdrop. The wall opposite the bar is covered with cork—warm and inviting, it also absorbs sound.

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Coffee for Sasquatch

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CafĂŠ Culture

Coutume Café

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Houndstooth Coffee Dallas, United States

OFFICIAL (Dallas) designed this strikingly beautiful Houndstooth Coffee location at the Sylvan Thirty mixed-use development in Dallas. The design concept was driven by the dual functions of a coffee bar (Houndstooth Coffee) and a cocktail bar (Jettison). The architects developed an elemental concept of day-to-night with the coffee bar filling the larger sunlit space and the cocktail bar occupying the smaller more intimate back corner. Finishing materials are lighter in the coffee shop and darker in the cocktail bar—keeping with the day-to-night concept. Gold accents are used throughout, however, to tie the two spaces together. The two spaces are also connected by a corridor with sliding doors at both ends that allow the spaces to operate independently or together.

The architects designed the coffee shop by taking advantage of the loftiness of the space with abundant natural light along with using natural materials to create a unique identity—a crisp and elegant design.

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Sightglass Coffee Roasters San Francisco, United States

Studio BBA (San Francisco) designed this refined coffee bar and roastery. The setting, on a rather quiet tree-lined block, has a very authentic neighborhood feel.

Warm and welcoming—yet on approach one senses something special.

The coffee shop occupies a converted manufacturing building with the façade painted a cheerful and vibrant blue. The paint color enhances the street experience, differentiates the building from its neighbors, and serves as a dramatic and playful frame to the view of the interior. The large factory windows along the tall front wall allow plenty of natural light into the space whether opened or closed.

The interior is bright and open; and one quickly notices that the height and volume of the space is balanced with natural materials and well-thought-out design details. The welcoming coffee bar is topped with white Carrara marble. The flooring is simple ceramic mosaic tile but contains an interesting star-shaped inlay.

The ceiling consists of redwood sapwood set at angles.

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There’s something very special about being able to relish a quality espresso or expertly brewed filter coffee in beautifully designed surrounds. Café Culture: For Lovers of Coffee and Good Design brings together a selection of well-crafted interior spaces by those with both a strong sense of good design aesthetics and a refined appreciation of the art of a good coffee experience. As the much-anticipated follow-up to Coffee Culture: hot coffee + cool spaces that presents many coffee shop designs from across the United States, in his new book Robert Schneider expands on the theme by showcasing a wonderful new collection of café designs, this time from 28 different cities around the globe.

$40.00 [USA] £30.00 [GB]