INTRODUCTION
In the post-pandemic landscape Belgian chefs, restaurants and food suppliers are positioning themselves as champions of change, with many of them using the extraordinary events of the past 1,5 years as a springboard for meaningful action. By rethinking their business and adapting to the new industry standards they are developing a new, long-term model for the future. If Belgian cuisine is not at the top of your foodie bucket list, it should be: Belgium’s culinary scene is brimming with luxurious farm-to-table restaurants, bustling neighbourhood bistros, inventive vegan cafes and great fast-food joints. Our talented chefs take great pride in adding their own twist to Belgian terroir products, such as hop shoots, chicory, asparagus and Brussels sprouts. Simplicity, purity and freshness are at the heart of Belgian cooking. A new generation of ambitious hospitality entrepreneurs is now stepping up to the plate, making this an exciting time to eat your way through Belgium. This book is a must-read for anyone interested in food. It will guide you to the best spots to taste our iconic chocolate, beers, waffles and fries, and help you discover our country’s rebellious artisans who are challenging the status quo. We are keenly aware how hard it is to run a profitable and sustainable business in the highly competitive world of hospitality, which is why we want the world to know about Belgium’s most surprising eateries. The places in this book have either been picked because they are incredibly authentic and still standing proudly (despite the challenges they have faced over the years), because they offer perfectly prepared signature dishes, or because their owners possess an extraordinary sense of creativity, vision and personality. While this book doesn’t necessarily cover all the highlights of Belgium’s culinary scene, it aims to be a useful and inspiring guide to well-known places and hidden gems.
As proud Belgians, we strongly recommend you travel to Belgium with stretchy pants and leave it up to the local culinary artisans to satisfy your appetite.
INTRODUCTION
In the post-pandemic landscape Belgian chefs, restaurants and food suppliers are positioning themselves as champions of change, with many of them using the extraordinary events of the past 1,5 years as a springboard for meaningful action. By rethinking their business and adapting to the new industry standards they are developing a new, long-term model for the future. If Belgian cuisine is not at the top of your foodie bucket list, it should be: Belgium’s culinary scene is brimming with luxurious farm-to-table restaurants, bustling neighbourhood bistros, inventive vegan cafes and great fast-food joints. Our talented chefs take great pride in adding their own twist to Belgian terroir products, such as hop shoots, chicory, asparagus and Brussels sprouts. Simplicity, purity and freshness are at the heart of Belgian cooking. A new generation of ambitious hospitality entrepreneurs is now stepping up to the plate, making this an exciting time to eat your way through Belgium. This book is a must-read for anyone interested in food. It will guide you to the best spots to taste our iconic chocolate, beers, waffles and fries, and help you discover our country’s rebellious artisans who are challenging the status quo. We are keenly aware how hard it is to run a profitable and sustainable business in the highly competitive world of hospitality, which is why we want the world to know about Belgium’s most surprising eateries. The places in this book have either been picked because they are incredibly authentic and still standing proudly (despite the challenges they have faced over the years), because they offer perfectly prepared signature dishes, or because their owners possess an extraordinary sense of creativity, vision and personality. While this book doesn’t necessarily cover all the highlights of Belgium’s culinary scene, it aims to be a useful and inspiring guide to well-known places and hidden gems.
As proud Belgians, we strongly recommend you travel to Belgium with stretchy pants and leave it up to the local culinary artisans to satisfy your appetite.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
This guide lists over 350 mouth-watering and unexpected places, local food heroes and incredible culinary experiences that are worth checking out if you live in or are visiting Belgium and are a foodie. Places for drinks or a quick bite to eat, where food is paired with culture, famous spots for fish and seafood and so on. But the guide is also your go-to for places where you can eat straight from the field or enjoy an old-school fine dining experience, nostalgic brasseries and the restaurants of women chefs, the best shops for cheese, poultry and vegetables, or a place for a late-night meal. This guide was written during a difficult period, i.e., the worldwide corona virus pandemic. The information was checked right up until publication but it is always possible that a shop, cafe or restaurant is closed or has chosen not to reopen. Please bear in mind that the selection of addresses presented in this guide is highly personal. You might not always agree with it, or you might find that a certain place is missing. If you want to leave a comment, recommend a spot or share your favourite spot, please follow @500hiddensecrets on Instagram or Facebook and get in touch with the publisher. And of course it’s always a good idea to visit our website the500hiddensecrets.com, where you’ll find lots of new content, constantly updated info and travel inspiration about many other destinations and topics.
F E M K E V A N D E V E L D E divides her time between Ghent and the Belgian seaside, together with her partner Jens, their daughter Zadig and their dachshund Nabokov. Originally a cookbook blogger, she currently works as a freelance food editor and restaurant critic for Belgian newspaper De Morgen. She is also the author of the culinary guidebooks XIII Ghent and XIII Antwerp, and a contributing editor to Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery, as she believes in the power of food to connect us across cultural and political borders.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS FROM THE AUTHOR First and foremost, I would like to express my admiration and gratitude to all of the places featured and the Belgian chefs who kindly took the time to share their favourite haunts with me. All the generous people who offered their recommendations and shared their knowledge of Belgium’s finest culinary spots: you rock. High fives to Luster for believing in this project. If you ever have the opportunity to work with Marc, Dettie and their team at Luster, I highly recommend it. Tony Le Duc for his amazing pictures. And, last but not least, my family and my partner Jens, in his various roles as best friend, fellow explorer, in-house editor who never complains, and the most extraordinary sommelier anyone could ever have wished for. And of course to many others, whose fingerprints are all over this book. My sincerest thanks for bringing this book to life, and I hope that in the future we will share many excellent restaurant meals and bar crawls together. Femke
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
This guide lists over 350 mouth-watering and unexpected places, local food heroes and incredible culinary experiences that are worth checking out if you live in or are visiting Belgium and are a foodie. Places for drinks or a quick bite to eat, where food is paired with culture, famous spots for fish and seafood and so on. But the guide is also your go-to for places where you can eat straight from the field or enjoy an old-school fine dining experience, nostalgic brasseries and the restaurants of women chefs, the best shops for cheese, poultry and vegetables, or a place for a late-night meal. This guide was written during a difficult period, i.e., the worldwide corona virus pandemic. The information was checked right up until publication but it is always possible that a shop, cafe or restaurant is closed or has chosen not to reopen. Please bear in mind that the selection of addresses presented in this guide is highly personal. You might not always agree with it, or you might find that a certain place is missing. If you want to leave a comment, recommend a spot or share your favourite spot, please follow @500hiddensecrets on Instagram or Facebook and get in touch with the publisher. And of course it’s always a good idea to visit our website the500hiddensecrets.com, where you’ll find lots of new content, constantly updated info and travel inspiration about many other destinations and topics.
F E M K E V A N D E V E L D E divides her time between Ghent and the Belgian seaside, together with her partner Jens, their daughter Zadig and their dachshund Nabokov. Originally a cookbook blogger, she currently works as a freelance food editor and restaurant critic for Belgian newspaper De Morgen. She is also the author of the culinary guidebooks XIII Ghent and XIII Antwerp, and a contributing editor to Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery, as she believes in the power of food to connect us across cultural and political borders.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS FROM THE AUTHOR First and foremost, I would like to express my admiration and gratitude to all of the places featured and the Belgian chefs who kindly took the time to share their favourite haunts with me. All the generous people who offered their recommendations and shared their knowledge of Belgium’s finest culinary spots: you rock. High fives to Luster for believing in this project. If you ever have the opportunity to work with Marc, Dettie and their team at Luster, I highly recommend it. Tony Le Duc for his amazing pictures. And, last but not least, my family and my partner Jens, in his various roles as best friend, fellow explorer, in-house editor who never complains, and the most extraordinary sommelier anyone could ever have wished for. And of course to many others, whose fingerprints are all over this book. My sincerest thanks for bringing this book to life, and I hope that in the future we will share many excellent restaurant meals and bar crawls together. Femke
BELGIUM
3
1
2
4 5 6
8
7 10
9 1 WEST FLANDERS 2 EAST FLANDERS
7 WALLOON BRABANT
3 ANTWERP 8 HAINAUT 4 LIMBURG 9 NAMUR 5 FLEMISH BRABANT
10 LIÈGE
6 BRUSSELS
11 LUXEMBOURG
11
BELGIUM
3
1
2
4 5 6
8
7 10
9 1 WEST FLANDERS 2 EAST FLANDERS
7 WALLOON BRABANT
3 ANTWERP 8 HAINAUT 4 LIMBURG 9 NAMUR 5 FLEMISH BRABANT
10 LIÈGE
6 BRUSSELS
11 LUXEMBOURG
11
Famous spots for FISH & SEAFOOD
1
’T HOF VAN ORANJE Oudenaardse Steenweg 2 Balegem East Flanders +32 (0)9 360 01 27 hofvanoranje.be
2
’T WERFTJE Werfkaai 29 Zeebrugge West Flanders +32 (0)497 55 30 10 twerftje.be
3
HET NIEUWE PALINGHUIS Sint-Jansvliet 14 Antwerp +32 (0)3 231 74 45 hetnieuwe palinghuis.be
The family-style ’t Hof van Oranje can serve up to 500 guests (!) and has been in business for more than 40 years. Good to know: top chef Peter Goossens of the quintessential Hof van Cleve★★★ is hooked on their mussels. He likes them best natuur: cooked with celery and onions. The homemade fries that accompany the mussels are a treat all on their own.
Located in the old fishing port of Zeebrugge, charming walk-in ’t Werftje is open from the early morning until the last customer walks out the door. Blame the homemade shrimp croquette and the Rodenbach Vintage (a famous Belgian sour ale) on tap. Ask for a terrace table, and while you’re there you might as well order some fish soup, lobster and king crab claws.
Het Nieuwe Palinghuis has been the golden standard for high-quality fish since 1983; the seascapes and old photographs of Antwerp are a testament to the authenticity of this place. If you’re having trouble deciding, chef Erik Haentjens comes to the rescue with his personally presented fresh suggestions of the day. Must-try dish where the restaurant is called after: the eel in green herb sauce, a classic Belgian speciality.
34
35
6 NOORDZEE / MER DU NORD
Famous spots for FISH & SEAFOOD
1
’T HOF VAN ORANJE Oudenaardse Steenweg 2 Balegem East Flanders +32 (0)9 360 01 27 hofvanoranje.be
2
’T WERFTJE Werfkaai 29 Zeebrugge West Flanders +32 (0)497 55 30 10 twerftje.be
3
HET NIEUWE PALINGHUIS Sint-Jansvliet 14 Antwerp +32 (0)3 231 74 45 hetnieuwe palinghuis.be
The family-style ’t Hof van Oranje can serve up to 500 guests (!) and has been in business for more than 40 years. Good to know: top chef Peter Goossens of the quintessential Hof van Cleve★★★ is hooked on their mussels. He likes them best natuur: cooked with celery and onions. The homemade fries that accompany the mussels are a treat all on their own.
Located in the old fishing port of Zeebrugge, charming walk-in ’t Werftje is open from the early morning until the last customer walks out the door. Blame the homemade shrimp croquette and the Rodenbach Vintage (a famous Belgian sour ale) on tap. Ask for a terrace table, and while you’re there you might as well order some fish soup, lobster and king crab claws.
Het Nieuwe Palinghuis has been the golden standard for high-quality fish since 1983; the seascapes and old photographs of Antwerp are a testament to the authenticity of this place. If you’re having trouble deciding, chef Erik Haentjens comes to the rescue with his personally presented fresh suggestions of the day. Must-try dish where the restaurant is called after: the eel in green herb sauce, a classic Belgian speciality.
34
35
6 NOORDZEE / MER DU NORD
Vibrant V E G E T A B L E S take the lead
22
LEEUW Kapelstraat 51 Hasselt Limburg +32 (0)468 14 74 47 leeuw.restaurant
23
’T AARDS PARADIJS Merendreedorp 65 Merendree East Flanders +32 (0)9 371 57 56 aardsparadijs.be
24
PEGASUS Guido Gezelle straat 5-7 Poperinge West Flanders +32 (0)475 94 31 27 pegasusrestaurant.be
24 PEGASUS
Book a table at the brandnew restaurant of Laurens Snykers and Lien Buntinx if you’re up for a culinary adventure. The in novative seasonal tasting menu always includes a wide range of forgotten plants, root vegetables and seeds. As asparagus take pride of place in the Belgian terroir, we recommend booking a table at Leeuw during the asparagus season, which starts mid-April and runs until the end of June.
The green herb garden of ’t Aards Paradijs (paradise on earth) invites you to enter this converted shoe factory. Chef Lieven Lootens and his family have been running this restaurant for over 30 years now. His cuisine expertly pays respect to the natural flavours of vegetables, fruits and flowers. Lieven himself is a big fan of bees, as they pollinate no less than three-quarters of all our vegetable crops. Is it necessary to state that his honey-infused vegetable dishes are not to be missed?
Chef Bert Recour has a love for fine products which he serves without frills in his 18th-century dining room, including a romantic fire place. In addition to locally grown chicory and hop sprouts, there is much more to discover at Pegasus. Have a slice of Bert’s heavenly homemade bread, pair it with a reasonably priced wine from his cellar and your culinary party is just getting started.
45
Vibrant V E G E T A B L E S take the lead
22
LEEUW Kapelstraat 51 Hasselt Limburg +32 (0)468 14 74 47 leeuw.restaurant
23
’T AARDS PARADIJS Merendreedorp 65 Merendree East Flanders +32 (0)9 371 57 56 aardsparadijs.be
24
PEGASUS Guido Gezelle straat 5-7 Poperinge West Flanders +32 (0)475 94 31 27 pegasusrestaurant.be
24 PEGASUS
Book a table at the brandnew restaurant of Laurens Snykers and Lien Buntinx if you’re up for a culinary adventure. The in novative seasonal tasting menu always includes a wide range of forgotten plants, root vegetables and seeds. As asparagus take pride of place in the Belgian terroir, we recommend booking a table at Leeuw during the asparagus season, which starts mid-April and runs until the end of June.
The green herb garden of ’t Aards Paradijs (paradise on earth) invites you to enter this converted shoe factory. Chef Lieven Lootens and his family have been running this restaurant for over 30 years now. His cuisine expertly pays respect to the natural flavours of vegetables, fruits and flowers. Lieven himself is a big fan of bees, as they pollinate no less than three-quarters of all our vegetable crops. Is it necessary to state that his honey-infused vegetable dishes are not to be missed?
Chef Bert Recour has a love for fine products which he serves without frills in his 18th-century dining room, including a romantic fire place. In addition to locally grown chicory and hop sprouts, there is much more to discover at Pegasus. Have a slice of Bert’s heavenly homemade bread, pair it with a reasonably priced wine from his cellar and your culinary party is just getting started.
45
53 AU VIEUX PORT
53 AU VIEUX PORT
S W E E T spots worth the sin
129 SIGOJI Rue du Commerce 123 Ciney Namur +32 (0)83 65 57 50 sigoji.be
130 CONFISERIE
TEMMERMAN Kraanlei 79 Ghent East Flanders +32 (0)9 279 59 01 temmerman confiserie.com
Euphrasie Mbamba is at the forefront of a new generation of talented chocolatiers. Her chocolate brand – Sigoji – is inspired both by the Belgian culture and the raw materials from her native Cameroon. Visitors of her Ciney atelier and luxury boutique can witness on-site how the cacao nibs are turned into delicious treats. The chocolatière has said that she puts all her emotions into her 100% dark chocolate pralines, which have a distinctive fruity but exquisite taste. Just try not to drool.
Before you enter this cosy shop on Kraanlei in Ghent, take a look at the baroque façade from the 17th century. Six works of mercy are incorporated into the decoration. Confiserie Temmerman cheerfully claims to perform another work of mercy by making life sweeter. The shop originally started by selling gingerbread, but now you can find all kinds of oldfashioned sweets – like wippers, muilentrekkers and vuile taloren – as well as Ghent’s best-known candy, the cuberdons, made of gum arabic and raspberry juice. Stock up here!
116
130 CONFISERIE TEMMERMAN
S W E E T spots worth the sin
129 SIGOJI Rue du Commerce 123 Ciney Namur +32 (0)83 65 57 50 sigoji.be
130 CONFISERIE
TEMMERMAN Kraanlei 79 Ghent East Flanders +32 (0)9 279 59 01 temmerman confiserie.com
Euphrasie Mbamba is at the forefront of a new generation of talented chocolatiers. Her chocolate brand – Sigoji – is inspired both by the Belgian culture and the raw materials from her native Cameroon. Visitors of her Ciney atelier and luxury boutique can witness on-site how the cacao nibs are turned into delicious treats. The chocolatière has said that she puts all her emotions into her 100% dark chocolate pralines, which have a distinctive fruity but exquisite taste. Just try not to drool.
Before you enter this cosy shop on Kraanlei in Ghent, take a look at the baroque façade from the 17th century. Six works of mercy are incorporated into the decoration. Confiserie Temmerman cheerfully claims to perform another work of mercy by making life sweeter. The shop originally started by selling gingerbread, but now you can find all kinds of oldfashioned sweets – like wippers, muilentrekkers and vuile taloren – as well as Ghent’s best-known candy, the cuberdons, made of gum arabic and raspberry juice. Stock up here!
116
130 CONFISERIE TEMMERMAN
161 THE BARN
161 THE BARN
BELGIAN FRIES done right
182 FRITUUR
BOTERMARKT Hundelgemse steenweg 10 Ledeberg East Flanders +32 (0)9 330 01 70
183 MAISON ANTOINE Place Jourdan 1 Etterbeek Brussels +32 (0)2 230 54 56 maisonantoine.be
182 FRITUUR BOTERMARKT
You can’t very well visit Belgium without indulging in some frites – as they are the guilty pleasure of many Belgians – and Frituur Botermarkt always delivers. Do mind: the queue at Frituur Botermarkt can be long, but don’t worry, its length just illustrates how much people love this place. Apart from the very fresh chips, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, the homemade Belgian stew and vol-au-vent also make this place well worth the wait.
Maison Antoine has been in business for ages, starting as a small hut and evolving to its current form, a big shop. The speciality of this frituur or chip shop is Belgian frites – double-fried in beef fat by the way – with various sauces ranging from mayonnaise, samurai, andalouse, tartare sauce, and pickles to speciaalsaus (mayonnaise and ketchup topped with chopped onion). Since it doesn’t offer tables nor chairs, you’re allowed to bring your meal in at all of the nearby cafes, which offer drinks and accommodation. After visiting the EU Commission and Parliament, this is a great place to refuel. Even Angela Merkel queued here for her paper cone of fresh chips, so why wouldn’t you?
147
BELGIAN FRIES done right
182 FRITUUR
BOTERMARKT Hundelgemse steenweg 10 Ledeberg East Flanders +32 (0)9 330 01 70
183 MAISON ANTOINE Place Jourdan 1 Etterbeek Brussels +32 (0)2 230 54 56 maisonantoine.be
182 FRITUUR BOTERMARKT
You can’t very well visit Belgium without indulging in some frites – as they are the guilty pleasure of many Belgians – and Frituur Botermarkt always delivers. Do mind: the queue at Frituur Botermarkt can be long, but don’t worry, its length just illustrates how much people love this place. Apart from the very fresh chips, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, the homemade Belgian stew and vol-au-vent also make this place well worth the wait.
Maison Antoine has been in business for ages, starting as a small hut and evolving to its current form, a big shop. The speciality of this frituur or chip shop is Belgian frites – double-fried in beef fat by the way – with various sauces ranging from mayonnaise, samurai, andalouse, tartare sauce, and pickles to speciaalsaus (mayonnaise and ketchup topped with chopped onion). Since it doesn’t offer tables nor chairs, you’re allowed to bring your meal in at all of the nearby cafes, which offer drinks and accommodation. After visiting the EU Commission and Parliament, this is a great place to refuel. Even Angela Merkel queued here for her paper cone of fresh chips, so why wouldn’t you?
147
329 LE MONDE DES MILLE COULEURS
329 LE MONDE DES MILLE COULEURS
COLOPHON EDI T I N G and COM P OS I N G — Femke Vandevelde — gunpowderandsmoke.com P H OTO G R A P HY — Tony Le Duc — tonyleduc.be —
@tony_leduc
A D DI T I O N A L P HOTOG R A P HY — Michiel Peters (Westpunt, p. 208-209 #259) G RA PH I C D ES I G N — Joke Gossé and Sarah Schrauwen COV E R I MAG E — ’t Werftje (p. 34 #2) The addresses in this book have been selected after thorough independent research by the author, in collaboration with Luster Publishing. The selection is solely based on personal evaluation of the business by the author. Nothing in this book was published in exchange for payment or benefits of any kind.
D/2021/12.005/9 ISB N 978 94 6058 2684 N U R 440, 450
© 2021 Luster, Antwerp www.lusterweb.com — W WW.THE500HID D E NS EC RE TS.CO M info@lusterweb.com Printed in Italy by Printer Trento.
FSC
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior written consent of the publisher. An exception is made for short excerpts, which may be cited for the sole purpose of reviews.