CHRISTINE COUNTESS PAHLEN
MAYK WENDT
AMALFI
C OAST
FOREWORD 6
CUISINE OF THE AMALFI COAST 8
LA COSTA DIVA 10
12
SORRENTO
L’ORANGERIE 16
RISTORANTE O ’ PARRUCCHIANO
LA FAVORITA 22
RISTORANTE MUSEO CARUSO 28
DON ALFONSO 1890 34
RISTORANTE A KM ZERO 40
RISTORANTE LE SIRENE 46
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 52
54
POSITANO/PRAIANO
LE TRE SORELLE 58
LA SPONDA 64
IL RITROVO RESTAURANT 70
IL PIRATA 76
UN PIANO NEL CIELO 82
TRATTORIA SAN GENNARO 88
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 94
96 AMALFI
TRATTORIA DA GEMMA 100
RISTORANTE DEI CAPPUCCINI 106
RISTORANTE LIDO AZZURRO 112
MARINELLA RESTAURANT 118
IL REFETTORIO 124
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 130
136
RAVELLO
ROSSELLINIS 136
TRATTORIA DA LORENZO 142
IL GIARDINIELLO 146
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 152
154
VIETRI SUL MARE
VOLTA DEL FUENTI 158
RISTORANTE AL CONVENTO 164
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 170
172 CAPRI
LA COLOMBAIA 176
LA CAPANNINA 180
TRATTORIA LE GROTTELLE 186
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 192
194
ISCHIA
RISTORANTE LA TORRE 198
LISOLA RESTAURANT 202
RISTORANTE DA CICCIO 206
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 212
214
NAPLES
IL RISTORANTE ALAIN DUCASSE NAPOLI 218
BISTRO & VINERIA L’EBBREZZA DI NOÈ 224
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 228
230 SERVICE
VIVA LA PIZZA 232
HOTELS & VILLAS TO DREAM OF 234
236 INDEX
240 IMPRINT
LA COSTA DIVA
It was Giuseppe, Napoleon Bonaparte’s older brother, who decided during a trip through southern Italy in 1807 to build a road for the coast between Sorrento and Salerno, at the time only accessible by boat. Of course, what he envisaged was not cars or buses, but mules and horsedrawn carts to move people and goods around. Several decades would pass before the Strada Statale 163 finally opened in 1850. Today, the winding route is considered one of the most beautiful—and exciting—coastal roads in the world. And one of the busiest. Drivers’ nerves are particularly frayed between April and the end of October. With the ink-blue Tyrrhenian Sea on the left and the steep Monti Lattari mountains on the right, they toil from one hairpin bend to the next, from one town sign to another. The scorching heat and smell of gasoline are great deterrents for anyone thinking about opening the convertible top, or even switching from a car to a Vespa. During the summer months, smart travelers follow the example of those artists and aristocrats of the pre-road past, and choose today’s smoothly operating ferry links between Naples, Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi, and from there onward to Capri and Ischia. Leave the car in the garage, and travel with hand luggage and comfortable shoes. Sandals-lovers are welcomed everywhere; the footwear is still made to measure, nailed together in no time at all, and decorated with coral, beads, or sparkling Swarovski stones. The perfect stylish accessories for enjoying déjà-vus on the sunset terraces of legendary locales that have stood the test of time.
COZZE ALLA NAPOLETANA
MUSSELS NEAPOLITAN STYLE
SERVES 4 DIFFICULTY
ZUPPA
2.2 lb (1 kg) fresh mussels
2½ tbsp/1⅓ fl oz (40 ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 clove of garlic
1 fresh chili pepper
12⅓ oz (350 g) pomodorini del piennolo (or ripe cherry tomatoes)
Pinch of salt
Pinch of black pepper
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley
TO SERVE
2¾ oz (80 g) crostini (or toasted slices of white bread or ciabatta)
1 PREPAR E THE MUSSELS
Clean the mussels thoroughly under running cold water. Remove any deposits with a brush and pull out the beard (byssus). Rinse the mussels again and rest in cold water for 15 mi nutes. Discard any open mussels that do not close when tapped.
2 BASE
Heat olive oil in a large, wide pan. Lightly crush the garlic and add it to the oil with the whole chili pepper—slice the chili for more spice—and infuse over medium heat. Do not let the garlic brown.
3 COOK THE TOMATOES
Wash and halve the tomatoes. Add to the pan, sprinkle with a little salt, and fry for 3–4 minutes until they start to release their juices and become intensely fragrant.
4 COOK THE MUSSELS
Drain the mussels well, add to the pan, and cover immediately. Cook over medium heat for 5–6 minutes until the mussels have opened up and released their juices.
5 FINISH
Remove the lid and reduce the broth briefly to a flavorful, not-too-thin soup. Season with pepper. Remove the garlic and chili. Stir in the parsley and finish with a final splash of olive oil.
6 TO SERVE
Serve the zuppa di cozze immediately while piping hot, with the crisp crostini on the side.
RISOTTO FRUTTI DI MARE
RISOTTO WITH SEAFOOD
SERVES 4 DIFFICULTY
SHELLFISH BROTH
10.5 oz (300 g) shells and heads from shrimp and scampi
1 fennel bulb
1 carrot
1 celery stalk
4 vine-ripened tomatoes
1 onion
Extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp/1 oz (30 g) tomato paste
RISOTTO
1¼ cups/8½ oz (240 g) Carnaroli rice
2 tbsp/1 fl oz (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
2.8 oz (80 g) squid, very finely diced
16 red shrimp, peeled
10½ oz (300 g) scampi
24 mussels, shucked
40 clams
2 tbsp/1 oz (30 g) butter, well chilled
2 tsp/0.35 fl oz (10 ml) lemon juice
¼ cup/1 oz (30 g) Parmesan, finely grated
3½ oz (100 g) flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Salt
Pepper
1 MAK E THE SHELLFISH BROTH
Rinse the shellfish shells and heads thoroughly. Wash the fennel, carrot, celery, tomatoes, and onion, and cut into julienne strips. Heat a little olive oil in a large, heavy pot and roast the shells until starting to color. Add the vegetables and shellfish heads and sweat briefly. Stir in the tomato paste, then cover with icecold water. Bring slowly to a simmer and cook gently on low heat for about 3 hours. Strain the broth through an extra-fine sieve and keep warm.
2
PREPAR E THE MUSSELS
Clean the mussels and clams thoroughly. Cook covered in a pot with a little water on high heat until they open up. Extract the mussels from their shells, strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve, and set aside.
3 RISOTTO
Toast the rice in a pot without fat over low heat until the grains are very hot. Add olive oil and a pinch of salt. Gradually pour in the hot shellfish broth, stirring constantly, and add the mussel liquid as needed.
4 ADD THE SEAFOOD
Halfway through the cooking time, stir in the finely diced squid. After about 16 minutes, the rice should be creamy and al dente. Take the pot off the heat and gently fold in the shrimp, scampi, and shelled mussels; they will cook to perfection in the residual heat.
5 MANTECATURA AND FINISHING TOUCHES
Stir in the butter, a drizzle of olive oil, lemon juice, and, if desired, a very little Parmesan, until the risotto is silky and creamy. Season with salt and pepper, and fold in the parsley.
6 S ERVE
Plate up the risotto and serve hot.
RISOTTO AL PESTO DI BASILICO NAPOLETANO E GAMBERI ROSSI
RISOTTO WITH BASIL PESTO AND RED PRAWNS
SERVES 4 DIFFICULTY
BASIL PESTO (NEAPOLITAN STYLE)
2¾ oz (80 g) basil leaves
2 tbsp/⅓ oz (10 g) parsley
¾ oz (20 g) walnut kernels
¾ oz (20 g) pecan kernels
¾ oz (20 g) pine nuts
½ cup/1½ oz (40 g) finely grated Parmesan
½ oz (15 g) Pecorino (or aged sheep’s cheese)
1 garlic clove
Extra virgin olive oil
Pinch of salt
Pinch of black pepper
PIZZAIOLA EMULSION
3½ oz (100 g) vine tomatoes
1½ oz (40 g) red datterini tomatoes (or cherry tomatoes)
1 clove of garlic
10 basil leaves
Pinch of dried oregano
Pinch of salt
Pinch of black pepper
RISOTTO
1 oz (30 g) shallot
Extra virgin olive oil
12 medium raw red prawns
1⅔ cups/11 oz (320 g) Carnaroli rice
Approx. 4¼ cups/34 fl oz (1 l) hot vegetable broth
1 oz (30 g) butter
½ cup/1½ oz (40 g) finely grated Parmesan
2 tbsp/1 oz (30 g) basil pesto (see above)
1½ tbsp/¾ oz (20 g) pizzaiola emulsion (see above)
1½ tbsp/¾ oz (20 g) buffalo milk kefir (or mild yogurt or buttermilk)
Salt
Black pepper
1
MAK E THE PESTO
Blend basil, parsley, nuts, pine nuts, Parmesan, Pecorino, and garlic until smooth. Gradually add olive oil to form a creamy, smooth pesto. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
2 MAKE THE PIZZAIOLA EMULSION
Wash and roughly chop the tomatoes. Blend very finely with garlic, basil, oregano, salt, and pepper. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve to give a smooth, velvety emulsion. Chill.
3 P REPAR E FOR THE RISOTTO
Finely dice the shallot and sauté it in a little olive oil over low heat until translucent. Peel and devein the prawns, then marinate just before serving with a little olive oil and a pinch of salt.
4
MAK E THE RISOTTO
Toast the rice in a pot without fat until the grains are really hot. Gradually add hot vegetable broth and cook for about 14 minutes, stirring regularly. Meanwhile, stir in the shallot and part of the butter, and add a little salt.
5 MANTECATURA
Take the pot off the heat. Beat in the rest of the butter, Parmesan, and basil pesto until the risotto is creamy and smooth. Season with salt and pepper and rest covered for 1 minute.
6 TO SERVE
Spoon the risotto loosely onto plates. Add dots of pizzaiola emulsion and a few drops of buffalo kefir for freshness. Top with the raw, marinated prawns. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4 DIFFICULTY
SPAGHETTI AL POMODORO
SPAGHETTI WITH TOMATO SAUCE—A CHILDHOOD MEMORY
TOMATO SAUCE
2½ tbsp/1⅓ fl oz (40 ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 clove of garlic
10½ oz (300 g) pomodoro riccio (or very ripe beefsteak tomatoes)
10½ oz (300 g) pomodoro ramato (vine tomatoes)
7 oz (200 g) San Marzano tomatoes
12½ oz (350 g) pomodorini del piennolo
⅓ oz (10 g) fresh basil
5¼ oz (150 g) datterini tomatoes, peeled and finely sliced
Salt
PASTA
11¼ oz (320 g) spaghetti
1 TOMATO SAUCE
Gently heat the olive oil in a pot. Lightly crush the garlic clove, infuse in the oil until golden, then remove.
Add all the tomatoes except the datterini to the pot, along with the basil leaves and a pinch of salt. Simmer gently on low heat for 20–30 minutes until the tomatoes have completely broken down and released all their flavor. First pass the sauce through a food mill, then through a fine sieve, until smooth and velvety. Keep warm.
2 PASTA
Cook the spaghetti in plenty of well-salted water until al dente. Drain, saving a little of the cooking water.
3 MANTECATURA
Add the spaghetti to the warm tomato sauce, and add the thin datterini slices and a few fresh basil leaves. Mix gently, adding a splash of cooking water if needed to bring it together. The sauce should coat the pasta completely, but not feel heavy.
4 SERVE
Serve the spaghetti immediately on warmed plates. If desired, finish with a few drops of extra virgin olive oil and some fresh basil.
ALICI ’NAMMURATE
STUFFED ANCHOVIES WITH PROVOLA IN CRISP BREADED COATING
SERVES 4 DIFFICULTY
1 lb 2 oz (500 g) fresh anchovies, cleaned and butterflied
Italian flour, Tipo 00 (or all-purpose flour), for dredging
4½ oz (125 g) provola (smoked mozzarella; or scamorza affumicata), thinly sliced
Freshly grated Parmesan, to taste
5 eggs
4½‒5 cups/9 oz (250 g) breadcrumbs
Sunflower oil, for frying
Salt
1 PREPARE THE ANCHOVIES
Gut the anchovies, carefully remove the bones, and open them up along the belly like a book, being careful not to cut off the tail. Rinse the anchovies quickly under cold water and drain well.
2 FILL AND CLOSE
Lay out half the anchovies skin side down on the work surface and dust lightly with a little flour. Cut the provola into thin strips and place a small amount on each anchovy. Sprinkle with some grated parmesan and a pinch of salt. Cover with a second anchovy to form little “sandwiches.”
3 BREADING
Dip the stuffed anchovies in beaten egg, then coat carefully in breadcrumbs. Make sure the edges are well sealed to prevent the cheese from leaking out during frying.
4 FRYING
Heat the sunflower oil in a pot or deep pan to about 335–345°F/170–175 °C. Fry the anchovies in batches until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
5 SERVE
Serve the alici ’nnammurate hot just as they are, with a fresh green salad, or with a light parmesan sauce.
RAVIOLI ALLA CAPRESE
STUFFED RAVIOLI WITH CACIOTTA, PARMESAN, AND MARJORAM
SERVES 4 DIFFICULTY
PASTA
4 cups/17½ oz (500 g) Italian flour, Tipo 00 (or all-purpose flour)
2 tbsp olive oil
2 cups (500 ml) boiling water
FILLING
2 eggs
14 oz (400 g) caciotta (semi-soft cow’s or sheep’s milk cheese), finely grated
7 oz (200 g) Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated
Marjoram, finely chopped
Pinch of salt
FOR SERVING
Fresh tomato sauce
Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated
Fresh basil
1 PASTA
Mound the flour on the work surface. Gradually work in the olive oil and boiling water, kneading everything quickly into a smooth, compact dough. Shape into a ball, wrap it in plastic wrap, and rest for about 20 minutes.
2 FILLING
Beat the eggs in a bowl. Stir in the caciotta, Parmigiano, marjoram, and a pinch of salt to form a smooth, easy-to-shape mixture.
3 SHAPE THE RAVIOLI
Cut the pasta dough in half. Roll out one half thinly on a lightly floured surface (about 6 inches/15 cm wide). Use a teaspoon to place small portions of filling evenly spaced on the dough.
Roll out the second half of the dough thinly and carefully lay it over the top. Press the dough firmly around the filling, making sure no air is trapped. Cut out the ravioli with a glass (2 inches/4–5 cm Ø) or cookie cutter.
4 COOK AND FINISH
Cook the ravioli in plenty of boiling salted water for about 5 minutes until they float to the surface. Lift them out with a slotted spoon, toss with fresh tomato sauce, and serve on warmed plates.
Sprinkle with Parmigiano and decorate with basil leaves.
SERVES
4 DIFFICULTY
ZUPPA DI PESCE ALL’ISCHITANA
CLASSIC ISCHIAN FISH SOUP (BOUILLABAISSE STYLE)
FISH AND SEAFOOD
(depending on the catch of the day, a total of about 3¼–4½ lb / 1.5–2 kg)
Cozze
Vongole
Polipetti (small octopus)
Seppioline (small cuttlefish)
Scorfano (scorpionfish) – a must-have
Grongo (conger eel)
Moray eel
Tracina (weever fish)
Perchia (small grouper)
Lucerna (gurnard)
Rana pescatrice (monkfish)
Cicale di mare (langoustine / mantis shrimp)
BROTH
Generous amount of extra virgin olive oil
14 oz (400 g) ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves
1 fresh chili pepper (peperoncino)
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 PREPARE THE MUSSELS
Clean the cozze and vongole thoroughly. Let them open in a covered pot with a little olive oil.
Leave the mussels in the pot, strain the liquid, and set it aside.
2 PRE-COOK THE MOLLUSKS
Roughly chop the polipetti and seppioline. In a separate pot, gently pre-cook them with a few pieces of tomato and a little olive oil until just soft. Set aside.
3 START THE BROTH
Heat plenty of olive oil in a wide, heavy casserole and gently sauté the crushed garlic cloves and peperoncino.
Add a few tomatoes and simmer briefly to retain their freshness.
4 COOK THE FISH
In the right order
Now add the fish gradually, according to their cooking time.
First the firm fish (scorfano, grongo, murena), then the more delicate types.
Add a little mussel broth and cook gently over medium heat.
Shortly before the end, add the polipetti, seppioline, cozze, and vongole.
Season with salt and pepper.
5 FINISHING
Let the soup reduce uncovered briefly until the broth thickens slightly.
Carefully place all the fish in a serving dish. Briefly reduce the broth again separately and then pour it over the fish. Sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley.
6 SERVE
Serve hot with toasted bread slices or crostini, perfect for soaking up that intense broth.
TRIGLIA CON PEPERONE ARROSTO, MANDORLE FRESCHE
E OLIVE TAGGIASCHE
RED MULLET WITH PEPPERS, ALMONDS, AND TAGGIASCA OLIVES
SERVES 4
DIFFICULTY
TOMATO AND RED MULLET SAUCE (MAKES
A GOOD 2 CUPS/17 ½ oz (500 G); YOU NEED JUST UNDER ½ CUP/3½ OZ (100 G))
17½ oz (500 g) red mullet heads and bones
1 small white onion
1 clove of garlic
1 small fennel bulb
1 celery stalk
Extra virgin olive oil
6¾ cups/54 fl oz (1.6 l) fish broth
1 handful fresh basil
9 oz (250 g) datterini tomatoes
10½ oz (300 g) ramati or piennolo tomatoes
Thyme
ROASTED PEPPER-TOMATO BASE (MAKES
ABOUT 1 CUP/9 OZ (250 G); YOU’LL NEED ABOUT 4 TBSP/2 OZ (60 G))
1 red bell pepper
1 spring onion
Extra virgin olive oil
2 oz (60 g) tomatoes
3–4 drops Pedro Ximénez vinegar (or: aged sherry vinegar)
FISH AND FINISH
4 red mullets (triglia di scoglio), cleaned
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt, black pepper
GARNISH
½ oz (40 g) peeled fresh almonds
1 oz (30 g) Taggiasca olives, pitted
0.07 oz (2 g) preserved lemon, cut into fine julienne strips
Mild or smoked paprika (to taste)
1 TOMATO AND RED MULLET SAUCE
Wash the red mullet heads and bones thoroughly and roast them in the oven at 380°F/195°C for about 25 minutes until nicely browned. Roughly chop the onion, garlic, fennel, and celery, and sauté them in a pot with olive oil until translucent.
Add the roasted fish bones, roughly chopped datterini and ramati (or piennolo) tomatoes, and sauté briefly until they release their juices. Pour in the fish broth, bring to a boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently over low heat for 25 minutes.
Remove from the heat, add the basil, and infuse for 10 minutes
Strain the sauce through a fine sieve and reduce to about 2 cups/17½ oz (500 g).
2 ROASTED PEPPER-TOMATO BASE
Roast the peppers in the oven at 375°F/ 190°C for about 30 minutes until the skin is dark. Rest covered, then peel, deseed, and cut into thin strips.
Sauté the spring onion in olive oil, add the peppers and tomatoes, and stew gently until soft. Season with a few drops of Pedro Ximénez vinegar. Set aside.
3 FINISH THE SAUCE
Mix the pepper-tomato base with about ½ cup/ 3½ oz (100 g) tomato and red mullet sauce until smooth and concentrated. Keep warm.
4 PREPARE THE FISH
Pat the red mullet fillets dry. Season with salt and pepper.
Heat olive oil in a pan and fry the fillets skin side down over medium heat until crisp, then flip them briefly. Remove from the heat and rest.
5 TO SERVE
Spoon the sauce into the center of warmed plates and top with the red mullet.
Roughly chop the almonds and finely slice the olives. Sprinkle them over the fish along with the julienned lemon strips.
Add a touch of paprika powder and finish with extra virgin olive oil.
AN INDULGENT JOURNEY
ALONG ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL COASTLINES
From the dramatic cliffs of Capri to the sun-drenched lemon terraces of Amalfi, this Callwey book is an invitation to immerse yourself in the spirit of the Mediterranean. It portrays authentic eateries, vibrant markets, and the people who are passionate about cooking, eating, and living here.
Accompanied by inspiring photography, the book offers glimpses into lively kitchens, colourful gardens, and fragrant lemon groves. Each chapter celebrates the magic of dolce far niente and, through exclusive recipes, stories, and travel tips, brings the sunshine, lightness, and flavors of the Amalfi Coast straight into your home.
UNIQUE
Authentic portraits, insider tips, and culinary highlights from Sorrento to Cetara
Exclusive recipes and stories celebrating classics such as limoncello, spaghetti alle vongole, and sfogliatella
Mediterranean joie de vivre— for browsing, dreaming, and cooking at home