500 miami

The 500 Hidden Secrets of

MIAMI JEN KARETNICK

LIGHTKEEPERS

5 superb STEAK HOUSES

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EDGE STEAK & BAR AT: FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MIAMI 1435 Brickell Ave Brickell ➄ +1 305 381 3190 edgerestaurant miami.com

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FIORITO 5555 NE 2nd Ave Little Haiti ➁ +1 305 754 2899 fioritomiami.com

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LAS VACAS GORDAS ARGENTINE STEAK HOUSE 933 Normandy Drive Normandy Isle �� +1 305 867 1717 lasvacasgordas.com

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With its farm-to-table sourcing by chef Aaron Brooks and rooftop location – where you’re warmed by fire pits when the cool winter weather sets in – the restaurant would never strike you as a corporate entity if you didn’t have to go through a hotel lobby to get here. Delicacies include Wagyu beef from Australia and America.

This charming Argentine spot, run by a trio of brothers, serves a tempting breaded steak Milanesa, topped with ham, tomato sauce and mozzarella. The Rioja-braised short ribs, which arrive with a fried egg, rival only the skirt steak with chimichurri for your attention.

Owners Luis and Rosie Gajer have been serving Argentine-style steaks, short ribs and sausages grilled to perfection for decades. Ask for the ever-popular enrollada (the rolled over), a steak weighing 0,68 kilograms that is also available as veal or as Kobe beef. Or sample a platter of mixed sausages for two. It’s all espectacular!

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RED, THE STEAKHOUSE – MIAMI BEACH 119 Washington Ave South Beach �� +1 305 534 3688 redthesteakhouse.com

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QUINTO LA HUELLA

Chef-partner Peter Vauthy is known for pushing the luxe limits at this South Beach steakhouse. The prime beef cuts are enormous and the free-range veal chops can be ordered as Marsala, Milanesa, Parmigiana or stuffed with foie gras, mushrooms, fontina and truffled Diane. There’s even a 4,5-kilogram whole Alaskan king crab available.

This sibling to Uruguay’s famous beach

AT: EAST, MIAMI, 5TH FLOOR restaurant features a parrilla as center788 Brickell Plaza Brickell ➄ +1 786 805 4646 quintolahuella.com

piece in the open kitchen. From this, all the Uruguayan grass-fed beef (and other good things) emanate, including the Bife Angosto, a 0,4-kilogram New York strip, and the Entrecôte, a 0,4-kilogram rib eye.

11 EDGE STEAK & BAR

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5 excellent OYSTER bars

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LURE FISHBAR AT: LOEWS MIAMI BEACH HOTEL 1601 Collins Avenue South Beach �� +1 305 695 4550 lurefishbar.com

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MIGNONETTE DOWNTOWN 210 NE 18th St Edgewater ➂ +1 305 374 4635 mignonettemiami.com

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ELLA’S OYSTER BAR 1615 SW 8th St Little Havana ➆ +1 786 332 4436 ellasoysterbar.com

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Don’t go through the main hotel lobby to get to this chic offshoot of a New York City brand. This restaurant, where the raw bar features six kinds of oysters (3 each from the East and West coast), has its own entrance. Try the oysters with pineapple relish, wasabi leaf or jalapeño ponzu.

Chef-owner Danny Serfer struck gold when he started shucking oysters in this Edgewater spot. Now he has two locations where the servers know the minute differences between each mollusk. Also available fried or Rockefeller. Lots of daily specials round out the offerings.

Much of the fare is infused with Florida influences, so even the oysters reflect it, designated as East Coast, West Coast and Gulf Coast. Beyond the raw, oysters Rockefeller incorporate uni butter and lime, and a lobster roll is served on a medianoche (sweet) bun with Tajín (chili peppers, salt and lime) mayo.

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THE RIVER OYSTER BAR MIAMI 650 S Miami Ave Brickell ➄ +1 305 530 1915 therivermiami.com

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JUVIA 1111 Lincoln Road South Beach �� +1 305 763 8272 juviamiami.com

The first oyster bar to take root in 2003, courtesy of chef-owner David Bracha, who has had several trend-setting restaurants since the early 1990s. Choose from a halfdozen varieties daily, from Hama Hama to Tatamagouche (3 dollars each). Then move on to crudos, ceviches and more fresh fish and seafood, paired with moderately priced wines.

Score a Kumamoto or Shigoku with panache. While not strictly an oyster bar, this classy, rooftop establishment combines French, Peruvian and Asian concepts. So you can enjoy them on the half shell or have oysters ‘Chino’ style, sizzling under chili, black beans and crisp shallots. Dress code: Miami chic (no tank tops for men).

37 MIGNONETTE DOWNTOWN

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5 RESTAURANTS THAT ARE SO MIAMI

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CAFÉ ROVAL 5808 NE 4th Ct MiMo District/ Upper East Side ➁ +1 786 953 7850 caferoval.com

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SHERWOOD’S BISTRO & BAR 8281 NE 2nd Ave Little River ➁ +1 786 359 4030 sherwoodsbistro.com

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THE LOCAL CRAFT FOOD & DRINK 150 Giralda Ave Coral Gables ➈ +1 305 648 5687 thelocal150.com

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Owner Mark Soyka, who started the South Beach Renaissance with News Café, transformed this historic 1923 location into his latest indoor-outdoor success. Now this one-time pump house, made from native coral, is a design dream. Dine al fresco amidst lush landscaping on deboned yellowtail snapper with faro tabbouleh.

Don’t be confused by the Native American references and artwork. They’re meant to reference the area’s connection to the Tequesta Indians (there’s a burial mound close by). The reclaimed vintage floor and ceiling are oh-so-MiMo, and the fare is oh-so-modern, roaming from ramen to rabbit potpie.

Inconspicuous from the outside, charming on the inside. This gastropub uses products that cater to the community like Zak the Baker bread and Abita root beer, plus craft beers. This place reps the Miami that residents like to keep to themselves.

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MANDOLIN AEGEAN BISTRO 4312 NE 2nd Ave Miami Design District ➁ +1 305 749 9140 mandolinmiami.com

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PUBBELLY SUSHI 1424 20th St South Beach �� +1 305 531 9282 pubbellysushi.us

In 2009, husband-and-wife team Ahmet Erkaya and Anastasia Koutsioukis reconditioned a house to fashion this mostly outdoor Greek-Turkish restaurant. You can’t help but be seduced by the dips and salads, kebabs, moussaka and whole grilled fish as you dine under the large shade trees that have been there since the 1940s.

Original, inventive and homegrown, this sushi gastropub launched both the Sunset Harbour neighborhood and an empire for chef-owners José Mendín, Andreas Schreiner and Sergio Navarro. Expect palate-challenging combinations like the Softshell Crab BLT or the Porkbelly & Clams rolls. Like Miami, it sounds weird but works. Several locations.

91 CAFÉ ROVAL

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The 5 nicest boutiques for UNUSUAL GIFTS

231 INIVA MIAMI AT: WYNWOOD BLOCK SPACE #19 2621 NW 2nd Ave Wynwood ➂ +1 786 614 8380 inivaboutiques.com

232 COCO BELLA 305 Alcazar Ave Coral Gables ➈ +1 305 444 1334 cocobellamiami.com

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Stylist Sandra Bellon and designer Sophie Pozmentier run this concept store dedicated to African artists and artisans from countries including Kenya, Tanzania and Senegal. Sibling to two boutiques in Gabon and Burkina Faso, the INIVA Miami location stocks photography, handmade bronze jewelry, juju hats, limited edition masks, eco-friendly wax print clothing and more.

Sometimes you find the gift you’ve been looking for (like presents for bridesmaids/ groomsmen, or a trinket for a beloved teacher, or something for that person who collects holiday paraphernalia) when you’re not looking for it. Coco Bella houses so many cute items that you leave with an armful of them.

231  INIVA MIAMI

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5 lovely DAY TRIPS

456 KEY LARGO Mile Marker #106 The Keys �� floridarambler.com, fla-keys.com/key-largo

457 LAS OLAS BLVD Fort Lauderdale lasolasboulevard.com

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This large island is home to the historic Key Largo Rock Castle or the centuryold African Queen, used on the 1951 movie. Spot wildlife at John Pennekamp State Park, the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center or the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. And swim with everyone’s favorite marine mammals at Oceanside Dolphins.

Pleasantly panoramic, the heart of Fort Lauderdale’s downtown district is filled with artsy shops, fashionable boutiques and trendy indoor/outdoor cafes and bars.

It’s slightly more relaxed than Miami’s main thoroughfares, but no less fabulous for people watching. Las Olas also hosts annual festivals and art shows.

456 KEY LARGO

457 LAS OLAS BLVD

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The 5 greatest GOLF COURSES

471 MIAMI SHORES

COUNTRY CLUB 10000 Biscayne Blvd Miami Shores ➀ +1 305 795 2360 miamishoresgolf.com

This 18-hole, country club golf course has both history and reasonable prices going for it. In addition to some gorgeous, subtropical landscaping, there’s plenty of wildlife, including an albino fox, that lives here. Non-resident tee times are listed on the site.

472 TURNBERRY

Where else can you play with pink flamingos? They gather, along with swans ISLE MIAMI 19999 W Country and ducks, at the water features on these Club Drive two famed 18-hole courses, originally Aventura ➀ designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr., then +1 305 932 6200 redesigned by Raymond Floyd. They’re turnberryislemiami.com home to PGA and LPGA tournaments – but also where fledglings can learn to fly.

473 MIAMI BEACH

These lovingly groomed greens were once known as the neglected Bayshore GOLF CLUB 2301 Alton Road Golf Course, built in 1923. Now thriving South Beach ���� with a Jim McLean Golf Academy on +1 305 532 3350 the premises, it truly fulfills original miamibeachgolfclub.com developer Carl Fisher’s dream for it.

The club embraces visitors of all ages and also allows installations during Art Basel.

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474 CRANDON

GOLF COURSE 6700 Crandon Blvd Key Biscayne ➅ +1 305 361 9129 golfcrandon.com

475 GRANADA

GOLF COURSE 2001 Granada Blvd Coral Gables ➈ +1 305 460 5367 coralgables.com

472 TURNBERRY ISLE MIAMI

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With a stunning backdrop of downtown Miami and a foreground of Biscayne Bay, Crandon practically begs visitors to play golf, if only for the views. Its beautifully kept public course is also one of the hardest par-72 in the state.

That seventh hole… well, there’s a reason it makes Golf Digest. Pros play here.

When you don’t have much time, try this 9-hole, par-36 course. Debuting in 1923, it’s the oldest of its kind in the state.

Perfect for beginners or more seasoned golfers who want to get in a few rounds, followed by a meal at the 10th hole, aka Burger Bob’s.

488 GARDENS BY

MOONLIGHT

AT: VIZCAYA MUSEUM AND GARDENS 3251 S Miami Ave Coconut Grove ➇ +1 305 250 9133 vizcaya.org, deeringestate.org

489 ‘BARNACLE UNDER

MOONLIGHT’ CONCERTS

AT: THE BARNACLE HISTORIC STATE PARK 3485 Main Hwy Coconut Grove ➇ +1 305 442 6866 thebarnacle.org

490 FULL MOON

DRUM CIRCLE AT: NORTH SHORE OPEN SPACE PARK 79th and Collins Ave North Beach ��

There are so many ways to experience this elaborate villa, built by James Deering – through guided tours, afternoon tea, workshops, holiday parties, community-based scientific studies. But seeing the carefully manicured gardens via moonlight, with live musicians and local artists performing, is perhaps the most meaningful for the soul.

The Barnacle was built in 1891 by Ralph Middleton Munroe, one of the first to settle bayside. Now a Historic State Park, the preserved property is host to events, including concerts under the full moon. Take a blanket, picnic and loved ones for the sound and sight of days long gone.

Founded in 2007, this group (Drum Circle Miami Group) has been drumming on the beach during every full moon, and the public is invited to join. It’s an amazing ritual, but there is etiquette involved. Read the list of full moon dates and rules on the group’s Facebook page, and be aware this is not a family-style event.

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5 N E E D-TO-K N OW FAC T S about Miami

496 DRESS CODES

Because it’s very hot in Miami for six months, women sometimes seem to dress in as little as possible, and men do not don dinner jackets even in formal restaurants. That said, the air conditioning in public places can make it chilly. And being shirtless or in bathing suits inside is bad form.

497 RULES OF THE ROAD

Miami’s roadways are limited with too-few main arteries and near-constant construction. The beaches are connected to the mainland by causeways with drawbridges, creating more traffic.

Drivers come from many different countries and don’t always obey local laws. Drive defensively and always use a current app or Sat-Nav system.

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498 PUBLIC

TRANSPORTATION AND PARKING miamidade.gov/transit, miamigov.com/trolley, miamibeachfl.gov/ transportation, cityofdoral.com

499 TIPPING POLICIES

The Metrobus, Metrorail and Metromover are helpful for moving around on the mainland, especially Brickell/Downtown.

Municipalities have their own trolley systems, which is useful in places like South Beach, where parking is tight.

Check your car in at beautifully designed garages like the Herzog & de Meuron project on Lincoln Road, then trolley to various destinations.

Leave 18 to 20 percent tip for food/drink service and spa treatments. But always check your bill – some establishments add it automatically. Tip valets a few dollars when your car is returned. Bellhops receive 2 to 3 dollars per bag; door attendants who unload your car or hail taxis, 1 to 2 dollars. For housekeeping, 3 to 5 dollars per night.

500 LAWS AND MANDATES You will see people flaunting liquor and drug laws in places like Wynwood and South Beach, which may lead to imitation. Be clear: Open containers of liquor are not allowed in public outside of bars and restaurants, and marijuana in any form is only legal if you are licensed for a medical marijuana card.

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The 500 Hidden Secrets of Miami reveals 500 off-the-beatentrack places and interesting details for anyone who’s keen to explore Miami’s best-kept secrets, e.g.

• the 5 nicest water views • 5 stunning Mediterranean Revival buildings • 5 renowned Miami-based fashion designers • the 5 coolest hotel pools • the best 5 places with wildlife … and much more.

The 500 Hidden Secrets is a series of essential city guides.

Every guide • is written by a savvy local • only contains independent advice • is based on thorough research and the author’s personal opinions • is frequently updated and reissued.

J E N K A R E T N I C K is a dining critic, lifestyle journalist, poet

and educator in Miami. She’s the author/editor of 15 previous books, including Mango. V A L E R I E S A N D S is a SouthFlorida based photographer with a laidback and witty approach, and a knack for taking organic, ‘in the moment’ photos.

@500hiddensecrets

ISBN 978 94 6058 2097

#500hiddensecrets 500hiddensecrets the500hiddensecrets.com 1ST EDITION – SEPTEMBER 2017