Alma de Cuba

From Latin Mass to Latin-American bar

Alma de Cuba is the outrageous occupant of Liverpool’s oldest surviving Roman Catholic church. Dedicated to St Peter, the church opened with a High Mass on September 11, 1788, and served the Catholic community for almost 200 years. The original building, a simple brick box, was later enlarged. The imposing altar, flanked by marble columns with the inscription Tu es Petrus, dates from 1898. The church was damaged in the blitz, and after the war, the surrounding area fell into decline. With few people living in the parish, St Peter’s closed in 1978 and remained empty for the next 25 years. Finally the enterprising developer Urban Splash acquired it for conversion to offices, but unable to find tenants, they decided instead to turn the church into a bar and restaurant. The renovation was fraught with difficulties. Not only was the building on the point of collapse, but during construction they found buried in the crypt the remains of Benedictine monks, which had to be re-interred at Ampleforth Abbey.

When Alma de Cuba opened in 2005, it caused a stir amongst some of the Catholic community, for although the church had been deconsecrated, it retained sacred fittings such as the high altar, murals, and memorial tablets. Now they are highlighted with hundreds of flickering candles within the otherwise dark interior, where a LatinAmerican carnival atmosphere has been created. There is live music with samba dancers most evenings, and on Fridays and Saturdays at 11pm, thousands of rose petals are launched from the balcony onto the revellers below. On Sundays brunch is served to the accompaniment of a gospel choir.

The food also has a Spanish accent, with tapas at lunchtime and brochetta and grills in the evening. A speciality is the Ron Zacapa 23-year-old rum from Guatemala, a headier brew than the sacramental wine that was served in former days.

Address St Peter’s Church, Seel Street, Liverpool L1 4BH, +44 8435044692, www.alma-de-cuba.com | Getting there 10-minute walk from Central station | Hours Fri 2pm – 2am, Sat 2pm – 3am, Sun 11am – 11pm | Tip Seel Street is the heart of Liverpool clubland so if you’ve not yet had enough try Heebie-Jeebies (no. 80 – 82) for cool R&B sounds or The Arts Club (no. 90) for indie bands.