Traditional Jewelers

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

FALL/WINTER 2015/16

WHAT’S NEW IN THE WORLD OF

WATCHES

SPOTLIGHT ON SMART-TECH

RUNWAY INSPIRATION

DIAMOND DECADENCE

F A S H I O N

I S L A N D ,

N E W P O R T

B E A C H ,

C A

GREAT

VA C AT I O N S DON’T HAPPEN BY CHANCE They require the perfect storm of service and value, with someone looking out for your best interest. That’s what we do best.

Inspirato is a club that offers privileged access to a curated collection of luxury vacations, with personalized service to ensure peace of mind on every trip. What’s more? We’ll serve up deep, deep savings on scores of club vacation options.

Why Inspirato?

CURATION

SERVICE

We hand-select our curated collection of luxury vacation options to meet our exacting standards.

We make vacations easy by providing access to expert guidance and on-site concierge service.

VA L U E

CERTAINT Y

We offer verifiable savings versus comparable luxury alternatives in the same destinations.

We deliver peace of mind by removing the uncertainty and stress of planning vacations.

Inspirato® is a private travel membership club that requires a non-refundable Initiation Fee and Annual Membership Fee. Membership is subject to acceptance of terms and conditions and other reservation and use rules. Availability, benefits, minimum stay requirements and nightly fees may vary by residence, date and membership option selected. See website (www.inspirato.com) for complete details. Inspirato is owned by Inspirato LLC and operated by its subsidiary Best of 52, LLC, 1637 Wazee Street, Denver, CO 80202, info@inspirato.com, 303-586-7771. Operator is registered as Florida Seller of Travel Registration No. ST38403; Washington Seller of Travel Registration No. UBI 603086598; California Seller of Travel Registration No. CST 2107465. ©2015 Inspirato LLC. All products and services offered and rendered by Inspirato® (including the operation and management of any vacation residence) are provided solely by Inspirato LLC, Best of 52, LLC, or their respective agents and affiliates, and not by the American Express Company or its subsidiaries or affiliates.

TUSCANY, ITALY

T A L K W I T H U S T O D AY . VA C A T I O N T O M O R R O W .

CALL OR VISIT US ONLINE TO LEARN MORE.

8 8 8 . 5 46 . 50 0 8 INSPIRATO.COM

Fall/Winter 2015/16

60 FEATURES 10 Welcome Letter

45

18 Community Events 24 From the Runways 30 Designers: Marco Bicego 32 Glacial Goddess 38 Watch News 40 Is it a Watch?

42 Traditional Jewelers Watch Report 44 Timepieces: Films to Watch 46 Timepieces: Jaeger-LeCoultre 48 Timepieces: Breitling 50 Speed: Leading the Charge 52 Conservation: Underwater Pioneers 54 Designers: Phillips House 56 Designers: Pesavento 58 Trends: Subtly Sensual 60 Pearls: Timeless & Trendy 62 Perfect Gems 64 Collectors: Above Parr

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

FALL/WINTER 2015/16

ON THE COVER

WHAT’S NEW IN THE WORLD OF

WATCHES

SPOTLIGHT ON SMART-TECH

RUNWAY INSPIRATION

28

DIAMOND DECADENCE

F A S H I O N

I S L A N D ,

N E W P O R T

B E A C H ,

C A

Model Gintare Sudziute (Wilhelmina NY) in Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection earrings and ring. Photography and creative by Edwin Santa.

Jewelry styling by Jennifer Ferkenhoff. Makeup and hair by Michelle Ortega. Makeup assisant Ariel Palma. Photography assistant Steve Burton.

TRADITIONALJEWELERS.COM NEWPORT BEACH FASHION ISLAND 817 NEWPORT CENTER DRIVE, NEWPORT BEACH, CA 92660 PHONE (949) 721-9010 HYDE PARK DENVER HYDE PARK CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E. 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 PHONE (303) 333-4446 HYDE PARK PHOENIX HYDE PARK BILTMORE FASHION PARK 2502 E. CAMELBACK ROAD, PHOENIX, AZ 85016 PHONE (602) 667-3541 OMEGA BOUTIQUE AT HYDE PARK — DENVER CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E. 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 PHONE (303) 331-7749 BREITLING PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 303-331-7015 ROBERTO COIN PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 303-331-7016 ROLEX PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK — LAS VEGAS THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS 3500 LAS VEGAS BLVD SOUTH, LAS VEGAS, NV 89109 PHONE (702) 794-3541 MICHAEL POLLAK CEO SHEREEN POLLAK PRESIDENT DAMON GROSS COO BRENT SEYLER SENIOR SALES MANAGER SUSI LEXIER-ALTMAN HYDE PARK DENVER GENERAL MANAGER NICK VEGA HYDE PARK PHOENIX GENERAL MANAGER SANDI PERRY ROLEX PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK LAS VEGAS GENERAL MANAGER JOHN BURBA OMEGA PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK MANAGER ANTONIS DEVES BREITLING/ROBERTO COIN PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK MANAGER JENNIFER FERKENHOFF DIRECTOR OF MARKETING PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN CREATIVE DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER

PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS JOHN FRASCONE

MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES

DESIGNER JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2015. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 13, Issue 2. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE II IN PL ATINUM

rolex

oyster perpetual and day-date are

速

trademarks.

welcome

Celebrating a Milestone Birthday!

It’s hard to believe a career that started on the lawn of the University of Denver campus in the spring of 1973, where I sold turquoise and American-Indian jewelry, has evolved into a jewelry, watch and engagement ring business at the threshold of its 40th year. Who would have imagined what began as a 1,000-square-foot boutique in southeast suburban Denver would grow into a group of seven stores in four western states (Colorado, Arizona, Nevada and California)?

I’m enormously proud of our team of 100 professionals, without whom this wouldn’t have been possible. Our success is due to the fact that all of them subscribe to our company values: • Treat every client with respect.

• Employ ethical and transparent business practices.

• Elevate the selection and quality of our products and services.

• Give back to the communities we serve.

So much has changed in our industry; demographic shifts, world events and technological advances have made it more important than ever for us to be proactive in meeting the needs of our clients. We are committed to adapting and serving you in any way you prefer, be it online, over the phone, via text, or in person at any one of our locations. I want to thank each and every one of you for giving us the opportunity to be your preferred jeweler by earning your trust and confidence. If we ever disappoint you, please let us know. We can’t fix what we are unaware of. You can always get my attention by emailing me at Customers-Are-Number-1@traditionaljewelers.com.

In this fall/winter issue of our magazine, I have shared my thoughts about the emerging category of smart-tech wearables on page 40. The Traditional Jewelers team has also provided an inside look into fun and fulfilling activities that are part of our giving back initiatives, which you can find on pages 18 and 20. In addition and just as exciting, we have a highlight of our beautiful new jewelry offerings awaiting you beginning on page 24.

This holiday season, take a moment to express your feelings for those you love and cherish. We are confident that we can help you make their dreams come true!

Warm Regards,

Michael Pollak CEO, Traditional Jewelers and Hyde Park Jewelers mpollak@traditionaljewelers.com

history a n d heroes.

luminor submersible 1950 GD\V FKURQR ﾃ―EDFN automatic titanio (ref. 615)

Exclusively at Panerai boutiques and select authorized watch specialists.

TAG HEUER CARRERA LADY DIAMONDS Cara Delevingne challenges rules. Being free-minded is her motto. Like TAG Heuer, she defies conventions and never cracks under pressure.

EVENTS

Scott McCarty, Traditional Jewelers’ Jamere Tabello, Norman and Rosy Tabello

Cocktail reception at the Glass Slipper Guild Gala

CHOC GLASS SLIPPER GUILD GALA MAY 2015, NEWPORT BEACH The Glass Slipper Guild of CHOC hosted its 21st Annual Gala in May at the Newport Dunes to raise funds for a post-anesthesia care unit. Event co-chairs Jami Koontz, Marita Quint Bruni and Shannon Wilkins, along with Glass Slipper Guild co-presidents Natalie Barberi and Anna-Marie Claassen, welcomed guests to a celebratory evening recognizing CHOC and its beloved patients, invaluable doctors and generous supporters in the community.

To celebrate the Guild’s 21st anniversary with “A Night in the Bohemian Garden,” the beautiful Newport Dunes overlooking the Back Bay was transformed into a luxurious and elegant setting.

There, guests enjoyed silent and live auctions, a delectable menu and an uplifting program recognizing four CHOC patients.

Traditional Jewelers sponsored a one-of-a-kind table raffle where guests had the opportunity to win stunning jewelry and gift cards to Traditional Jewelers. Some of the amazing jewelry items included a Kwiat 18K white gold diamond drop pendant, Roberto Coin diamond earrings, Armenta earrings and more! In addition to the table raffle sponsorship, Traditional Jewelers donated a live auction package that included an IWC Portofino timepiece and a trip for two to the Tribeca Film Festival and an IWC “For Love of Cinema” event in New York.

CHOC is exclusively committed to the health and well-being of children through clinical expertise, advocacy, outreach and research that brings advanced treatment to pediatric patients.

Gala co-chair Marita Quint, CHOC patient Honoree Colin Gardner and CHOC Glass Slipper Guild copresident Natalie Wackeen Gala live auction action

Auction chair Debbie Eldridge and CHOC Glass Slipper Guild copresident Anna-Marie Claassen

速ROBERTOCOIN

BLACK JADE COLLECTION

EVENTS

Natalie, Nancy and Alex Stack

CRF founding trustees Geoffrey and Nancy Stack

Longtime family friends and CRF supporters Bob and Christyne Olson CRF board member Michael K. Hayde, Sue Werner and CRF board member John Hagestad Board members Traci and Tom Gendron

NATALIE’S WISH CELEBRATION APRIL 2015, NEWPORT BEACH On Saturday, April 18, more than 430 guests packed the ballroom of the Balboa Bay Resort for the 2015 Natalie’s Wish Gala. The Cystinosis Research Foundation raised more than $2.35 million at its annual fundraiser, where it was announced that the first clinical trial using stem cell therapy is anticipated for 2016 amid hopes it will produce a cure for the rare metabolic disease.

Guests traveled from all corners of the world to join this annual celebration of the milestones CRF has already achieved and to cheer the possibilities that lie just ahead on the journey to find a cure. Cystinosis destroys the body’s organs and afflicts about 2,000 people worldwide, mostly children. “The treatment, if successful, could potentially cure this disease,” said Nancy Stack, CRF trustee and president.

Guests who attended the CRF’s Natalie’s Wish event enjoyed entertainment by the all-male a cappella group Straight No Chaser and an auction that included lavish vacations, concert tickets, dinners and more. Traditional Jewelers and Jaeger-LeCoultre donated an extraordinary live auction package of a trip for two to the 2015 New York Film Festival and a Jaeger-LeCoultre private dinner event, as well as a stunning Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grand Taille timepiece.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grand Taille

Film Society of Lincoln Center

spotted

Dakota Johnson wore Forevermark at the 2015 Academy Awards.

Kristen Stewart wore Stephen Webster in the August 2015 issue of Marie Claire.

Our favorite stars share a love for our favorite brands!

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

IMAGE BY TESH, STYLING BY ALISON EDMOND

As Seen On...

Jennifer Lopez wore Sutra at the Met Gala.

Allison Janney wore Ippolita at the U.K. premiere of Spy.

22

Sienna Miller wore Forevermark at the 2015 Academy Awards.

Marisa Tomei wore Ippolita at the 2015 Vanity Fair Oscar Party.

Dascha Polanco wore Roberto Coin at the Billboard Latin Music Awards.

Kate Winslet wore Marco Bicego in the April 2015 issue of In Style.

23

from the

RUNWAYS

NOW NEUTRALS

1

2

5

3

4 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Stephen Webster Thorn 18K white gold and diamond twist pendant Henri Daussi 18K rose gold and pavĂŠ diamond eternity band Roberto Coin Pois Moi 18K white gold and diamond bangle Roberto Coin mother of pearl, 18K rose gold and diamond drop earrings IWC Portofino stainless steel 40mm watch

MAX MARA RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE

from the

RUNWAYS

RICH TEXTURE

1

2

3

5 4 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Reserve Collection 18K white gold and pavé diamond link necklace Ivanka Trump Liberté 18K yellow gold and diamond cuff Armenta Old World Midnight pavé round ring with champagne diamonds and white sapphires Roberto Coin Cento Rosette 18K white gold and diamond drop earrings Pesavento Pixel ruthenium and diamond ring

CHANEL RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE

from the

RUNWAYS

SEVENTIES GLAM

1

2

5

3 4

1..

2.

3.

4.

5.

Phillips House Infinity 18K yellow gold and diamond tassel necklace Reserve Collection 18K white gold marquee diamond drop earrings Reserve Collection 18K rose gold and pavĂŠ diamond link bracelet Reserve Collection 18K white gold and diamond fan earrings Roberto Coin Black Jade 18K rose gold, diamond and black jade ring

REBECCA MINKOFF RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE

designers

EXQUISITE

elegance Marco Bicego delivers Italian style and craftsmanship.

BY BARBARA WHEAT

Left: Marco Bicego Paradise collection and Diamond Lunaria collection

T

here’s a reason that jewelry designer Marco Bicego embraces “Made in Italy” branding for his contemporary jewelry designs: his work is inspired by his Venetian origins and the area’s natural surroundings. Moreover, having grown up in his father’s atelier in Veneto, Italy, he understands the importance of old-world tradition and fine craftsmanship. No wonder Bicego is involved in every aspect of the production of his handmade creations.

At his state-of-the-art factory in Vicenza, the grated floor serves as a safety net for catching findings and other parts used in the making of his jewelry lines. (The grating is lifted twice a year in order to sweep the floor below, where all of the materials are reclaimed for use.) Inside the factory, the talented artisans who specialize in different areas of the production process carefully craft each component of Marco Bicego jewelry. Some fashion the intricate gold constructions, while others set the many colored stones and diamonds used in the designs. What they have in common is that they all feel the same passion for ensuring quality in every piece of jewelry.

In keeping with the designer’s passion for nature, the signature of his Goa collection is the use of swirling lines and curves combining 18K white or yellow gold with white diamonds. Bicego’s vision can also be seen in his latest collection of 18K gold jewelry and colored gemstones, aptly named Paradise: The New Color Explosion, which features fabulous styles in “sorbet colors.” Layered necklaces of gold chains and colored gemstone drops are the highlight of this grouping. Bracelets and earrings are similarly adorned and crafted with hand-engraved yellow gold elements.

Fanciers of Bicego’s work, notably those who are already familiar with his Lunaria collection of organically shaped gold leaves, will especially appreciate his newly launched Diamond Lunaria collection, featuring hand-set diamonds and bulino-technique hand-engraved links.

Many of these designs boast an exquisite texture, an effect that is achieved by extremely fine hand etching.

No matter which line you purchase, Marco Bicego brings exquisite elegance to every woman’s personal style.

30

L I F E

I S

A B O U T

M O M E N T S

C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0

PROMESSE STEEL, 34 MM, QUARTZ 69 DIAMONDS

Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection earrings, rings and bracelets.

GLACIAL GODDESS Adorn yourself this season with our most brilliant diamond collections.

Photography and creative

by Edwin Santa.

Kwiat Entwine Collection earrings, ring and bracelet.

Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection rings.

A.Link Deco Collection earring and rings. Rolex Daytona 18K white gold and diamond watch on a white leather strap.

Etho Maria Tsiki Tsiki Collection earrings, ring and bracelet.

Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection rings and bracelets.

Traditional Jewelers Reserve Collection earrings, rings and bracelets. Cartier Baignoire 18K white gold and diamond watch.

Model Gintare Sudziute (Wilhelmina NY). Jewelry styling by Jennifer Ferkenhoff. Makeup and hair by Michelle Ortega.

Makeup assisant Ariel Palma. Photo assistant Steve Burton.

WATCHNEWS

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

There’s always something new in the wide world of watches, from timepieces that commemorate special occasions in history to state-of-the-art technological innovations to books and blogs that let us know more about what we wear on our wrists.

THE WRITE STUFF Watch connoisseurs who are seeking the most up-todate information on what to wear on their wrists are turning more frequently to the internet to increase their knowledge. Among the most popular sites is hodinkee.com, an eight-year-old online magazine whose popular features include Hands On, which provides all the skinny on the newest watches. Another favorite is watchanish.com, a three-year-old blog that is known not only for its smart text, but also for its super-sharp photography taken all over the world.

Co-founder Anish Bratt gears the writing to both aspirational men and those who are already immersed in the wide world of watches. Meanwhile highly informational site watchreport.com keeps buyers and enthusiasts up on the latest news in the industry, while watchville.com aggregates content from all the relevant blogs and websites.

HISTORY LESSON Few books live up to their titles as accurately as Rolex: History, Icons and Record-Breaking Models, the lavishly illustrated new tome by Mara Cappelletti and Osvaldo Patrizzi. This stunning 152-page volume, published by the Antique Collectors Club, not only delves into the heritage of the beloved Geneva-based watch company, but also includes technical information on the brand, numerous pages devoted to such timeless timepieces as the Oyster Perpetual, the Explorer, the Submariner and the Daytona, and an entire section on vintage Rolexes that fetched jaw-dropping prices in the auction market. It’s the next best thing to actually owning a Rolex…or adding another one to your collection.

38

RACE RELATIONS

OPEN AND SHUT CASE

Fifty years after automotive legend Carroll Shelby won the 1965 FIA International Championship of GT Manufacturers in his iconic A.C. Cobra, achieving a victory that would change the course of international racing forever, history is being made again.

Baume & Mercier, in association with the Carroll Shelby Company, is marking this milestone by releasing a limited edition of Capeland Shelby Cobra timepieces.

These special watches are inspired by the vintage 1948 mono-push-piece chronograph found in the Baume & Mercier museum, and feature retro accents, classic lines, chronograph and tachymeter functions, a polished and satin-finished case and specially crafted hands featuring the Cobra logo. On your mark, get set, buy!

There’s no question you know what you’re getting when you purchase Officine Panerai’s new specialedition watch, the Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso, because the back of the timepiece’s case is open, revealing the movement. The front of the watch is equally smart, thanks to a 47mm cushion case which is made entirely of 5Npt red gold, a brown dial treated with a satiné soleil finish which catches the light, and the characteristic Panerai “sandwich” dial, which is formed of two superimposed discs. Moreover, the arrow-shaped central hand of the main dial can be used to indicate a second time zone, for those wearers who are caught between two worlds.

RAISING THE FLAG There’s an old saying that suggests if you want something done right, you must do it yourself. Tudor Watch U.S.A. is taking that sentiment to heart by introducing in-house manufacture movements to two of its most popular models: the Tudor Pelagos, a chronometer-based timepiece, which also now features a blue colorway for the dial and bezel, and the Tudor North Flag, which features a selfwinding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system, power reserve indicator, and a 70-hour power reserve. These up-to-the-second timepieces are definite must-haves for this year’s “in” crowd.

39

IS IT A WATCH?

BY MICHAEL POLLAK

I

embrace technology. Any device or software that makes life more seamless gets my vote. So it’s not surprising that I am continuously being asked about my opinion as to whether Apple’s latest release, the Apple Watch, is worth buying, and how it would impact the Swiss watch business.

My first answer is that this so-called smart device for the wrist is not so much a watch, but, in many ways, it’s really little more than an extension of the iPhone. Yes, it tells time, but so does your microwave. And after I bought one, I found that the biggest convenience it provided was that I wasn’t whipping out my iPhone every 30 seconds. It provides a cohesive bridge for alerts with only a limited amount of engagement, and performs many of the app functions of an iPhone, except on an abbreviated basis.

But will it really replace buying fine mechanical Swiss watches? No! I believe that if any change will occur, it will be in the entry level of the watch market, where prices are somewhat comparable to the Apple Watch. And let’s face it: the Swiss have been challenged before. Many people predicted the demise of the Swiss watch industry when the quartz watch was commercialized decades ago. Instead, Swiss watch exports have expanded tenfold since the early 1980s to over 28 million timepieces in 2014.

In conclusion, I believe the Swiss, along with their other European watchmaking colleagues, will continue to innovate and adapt as they always have. In doing so, they will delight the legions of passionate watch aficionados with micro-mechanics, haute design and the pride of wearing a brand steeped in craftsmanship and heritage.

40

Thorn Collection

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS

WatchReport

CARTIER AUDEMARS PIGUET

SHINOLA

For Her CHANEL

PATEK PHILIPPE

AUDEMARS PIGUET Ladies Royal Oak, 33mm 18K pink gold case, silver-toned dial with Grande Tapisserie white rubber strap with 18K pink gold AP folding clasp, water-resistant to 50 meters SHINOLA The Birdy, 34mm stainless steel case with PVD rose gold, semi-gloss silver dial, natural aniline Latigo leather strap, water-resistant to 50 meters CARTIER Cle de Cartier, 31mm 18K pink gold case set with brilliant-cut diamonds, flinquĂŠ dial with sunray finish, 18K pink gold bracelet, waterresistant to 30 meters CHANEL Large Boy.Friend, 28.6 x 37mm 18K beige gold case set with 66 brilliant-cut diamonds, opaline guilloche dial, black alligator strap, waterresistant to 30 meters PATEK PHILIPPE Ladies Aquanaut, 35mm stainless steel case bezel-set with 46 diamonds, embossed dial with gold applied numerals, Tropical composite strap with Aquanut fold-over clasp, water-resistant to 120 meters

42

WALTHAM OMEGA

ROLEX

For Him BREITLING

IWC

OMEGA Speedmaster ’57, 41.5mm stainless steel case, black dial, steel bracelet, water-resistant to 100 meters ROLEX Yacht Master 40mm 18K Everrose gold case with back ceramic bezel, black dial, black OysterFlex strap, water-resistant to 100 meters WALTHAM CDI Eclipse 47mm bi-colored Titanium/GVD Bezel case, embossed black dial, vulcanized VulCarbone rubber strap, water-resistant to 300 meters BREITLING Emergency, 51mm titanium case, Cobra yellow dial, titanium bracelet, water resistant to 500 meters IWC Portugieiser Perpetual Calendar, 44.2mm 18K red gold case, silver-plated dial, dark brown alligator leather strap, water-resistant to 30 meters

43

timepieces

FILMS TO

Watch Hollywood’s leading men have kept wristwatches in fashion.

BY BETH BERNSTEIN

most desirable male stars over the past 90 years.

The Son of The Sheik, 1926

W

omen’s jewelry often helps define what we know about female film characters and creates a desire among viewers for similar pieces in real life. Unsurprisingly, watches worn by leading men have done the same. In the past few years alone, IWC has provided character-driven timepieces for Jeremy Renner in The Bourne Legacy and Michael Douglas in Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps; Justin Timberlake wore a Breitling Chronomat 44 as he pursued Mila Kunis in Friends with Benefits; and Matthew McConaughey shared screen time with his Tag Heuer Grand Carrera Chronometer in the title role of the The Lincoln Lawyer. Many companies have even designed special-edition watches for films, such as the U.K.-based specialty brand Bremont, which created three chronometers for the 2014 action film Kingsman: The Secret Service, starring Colin Firth.

Cartier, Rolex and Omega take top honors in the Hollywood pantheon, having made a slew of memorable appearances on some of the film world’s

The first wristwatch ever to be shown on celluloid was the Cartier Tank worn by heartthrob Rudolph Valentino in 1926’s silent film The Son of the Sheik. It reportedly belonged to Valentino himself; indeed, the watch had nothing to do with the costumes and had no place in the story. Back then, men were still flipping open their pocket watches to tell time.

But once Valentino sported the Cartier Tank (which was inspired in name and design by World War I tanks) wristwatches began to replace the pocket watch in popularity. The sleek Tank is now available in approximately 250 variations.

Charismatic Cary Grant, himself a Tank fancier offscreen, wore one as beleaguered ad executive Roger Thornhill in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1959 thriller North by Northwest. The 1968 film The Thomas Crown Affair starred Steve McQueen, one of Tinseltown’s most passionate watch lovers, as a stylishly bored millionaire-turned-jewel-thief who wears a variety of high-end watches, including a Cartier Tank. Strong-but-sometimes-silent Gary Cooper owned the Tank Basculante (the so-called “tipping” Tank), while screen icon Warren Beatty sported Cartier Tanks throughout much of the 1960s and 1970s.

ROLEX Clark Gable personified tough-guy sex appeal, but off the screen he also understood the value of refined luxury timepieces. His vast watch collection included a 14K gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 6011, which he wore in the 1953 adventure film Mogambo. When that timepiece went up for auction at

44

IMAGE COURTESY OF FEATURE PRODUCTIONS/ KOBAL

CARTIER

Fifty Shades of Grey, 2015

IMAGE COURTESY OF FEATURE PRODUCTIONS/ KOBAL

sport an Omega Seamaster Professional 300m.

Hunky Daniel Craig continues the tradition to this day: He wore two Omega models—a blue Omega Seamaster300m Chronometer and a Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Co-Axial Chronometer—in his Bond debut, Casino Royale. He is expected to don an Omega or two in the upcoming 24th Bond film, Spectre.

Intriguingly, Omega watches are worn by another character who craves danger: sadomasochistic businessman Christian Grey, who has an Omega on his wrist in E.L. James’ steamy best-selling novel Fifty Shades of Grey.

Staying true to the book, Grey’s cinematic portrayer, Jamie Dornan, wears an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Chronograph and a black-faced Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Chronograph in the film version released in early 2015. Clearly, it’s a step up from handcuffs.

Bonhams’ “What Dreams Are Made Of” sale in November 2013, it sold for over $28,000.

The dream team of Robert Redford and Paul Newman shared the screen on numerous occasions (including in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid), along with their love of Rolexes. Redford wore a Rolex Submariner, model 1680, in his private life and in at least two of his films: The Candidate and All the President’s Men. Meanwhile, Newman caused a stir when he sported a Rolex Daytona with a bi-color dial in the poster for the racing film Winning, which caused collectors around the world to begin referring to this model by the actor’s name.

Talk about dashingly handsome men and you can’t help but think of British MI6 agent James Bond. In the series’ 11th book, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, author Ian Fleming wrote that Bond sees a heavy Rolex Oyster Perpetual on a metal bracelet as he awakens in the middle of the night. Meanwhile, Sean Connery, the original actor to portray Agent 007, wore a Rolex Submariner in the first of the Bond films, 1962’s Dr. No, as well as in the next six Bond films in which he appeared.

Beth Bernstein is the author of If These Jewels Could Talk (ACC Art Books).

FILM FACT: Both Rolex and Omega have been the official watches of James Bond on screen.

IMAGE COURTESY OF WARNER BROS/KOBAL

All the President’s Men, 1976

OMEGA In 1995, Omega won the bid to become the new official 007 watch. In GoldenEye, Pierce Brosnan became the first Bond to

45

timepieces

Top (L-R): Jeremy Renner, Ethan Hawke, Lily Tomlin, Robert Downey, Jr. Bottom (L-R): Clive Owen, Diane Kruger

I

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a film world favorite. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

n 1833, when Antoine LeCoultre opened his first watchmaking workshop, the cinema was still more than half a century from being invented. Now, more than 100 years later, Swiss watchmaking giant Jaeger-LeCoultre is at the forefront of sponsoring both established and up-and-coming film artists, and its extraordinary timepieces are gracing the wrists of some of the most glamorous and accomplished actors in show business. The match between these

two industries makes perfect sense to Jaeger-LeCoultre, as both are inspired by longstanding traditions and both are committed to the quest of absolute excellence.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s involvement with international cinema began in the last decade, when the company became an official partner of the prestigious Venice International Film Festival, where it now confers the annual Glory to the Filmmaker Award. In 2013, Jaeger-LeCoultre began a major involvement with the nonprofit Film Society of Lincoln Center in New York, launching the Filmmaker in Residence Program; it is also a major sponsor of the Society’s annual Chaplin Award Gala, where honorees have included Oscar winners Meryl Streep, Sidney Poitier and Robert Redford.

The watchmaker recently entered into its second year as a sponsor of the Los Angeles Film Festival and is also actively involved with such events as the Toronto International Film Festival, the Shanghai International Film Festival and the Cannes Film Festival.

In addition, Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces have recently been seen on the arms of Robert Downey Jr. (who wore a pink gold Geophysic 1958 timepiece to the 2014 Toronto International Film Festival), Ethan Hawke (who sported the Master Hometime at the 2015 BAFTAs) and Jeremy Renner (who had on the company’s new Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon at the New York premiere of Mission Impossible:Rogue Nation).

Among its brand ambassadors are actors Diane Kruger and Clive Owen.

“I have been a huge fan of their brand for a while,” says Owen. “I owned some before they even approached me, so it was a really organic coming together.”

Jaeger-LeCoultre has not only beoome one of the watch world’s shining stars, but one of the film world’s favorite watches.

46

IMAGES COURTESY OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE/GETTY IMAGES

Quality

WIREIMAGE

Star

THE MOON IS A LOT CLOSER THAN YOU MIGHT THINK.

THE RUNWELL MOON PHASE IN PVD GOLD CASE, MOON PHASE COMPLICATION AND DATE WINDOW, WHITE DIAL, DETROIT-BUILT ARGONITE 708 MOVEMENT, AMERICAN-MADE ALLIGATOR LE ATHER STR AP. BUILT TO L AST A LIFE TIME OR LONGER UNDER THE TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF THE SHINOL A GUAR ANTEE.

timepieces

BREITLING

Goes Bronze

Leave it to Breitling to first reinterpret the Chronograph– and then go one better with an exclusive 100-piece limitededition bronze-dial model.

A

hundred and thirty-one years ago, LĂŠon Breitling played a leading role in the creation of the first wrist chronograph. And today Breitling carries on that tradition by creating descendants of that watch that are more innovative and incorporate better design than any that can be found worldwide. The company has carved out a unique and unparalleled niche as the official supplier to world aviation and its watches reflect its unwavering dedication to accuracy and durability. And the company itself is as durable as its timepieces. In fact, in this era of huge conglomerates, it is still a family business and one of the last remaining independently owned Swiss watch brands.

The Breitling Transocean Chronograph is a new watch that combines the pure design of classic chronographs from the 1950s and 1960s with sleek contemporary style for today’s discriminating watch customer. Its steel case creates a striking home for the Breitling-built Caliber 01 movement that is its engine. The dial is a model of clarity and readability, featuring beautiful details including applied hour-markers and recessed and snailed counters. It is water-resistant to 100 meters.

As beautiful as the standard model is, our customers have an extremely rare opportunity to buy something truly special: one of just 100 exclusive limited-edition models worldwide with the elegant bronze dial pictured here. So call us today to reserve one for yourself or someone special before there are none left. This is a truly once-in-a-lifetime chance to own a watch that will be talked about (and cherished) for years to come!

48

DISCOVER THE TOUGHNESS OF

Model Shown: GSTS110D-1A

©2015 CASIO AMERICA, INC.

speed

A

LEADING THE CHARGE TAG Heuer sponsors the next big thing in auto racing.

BY DAVID A. ROSE

THE RACE IN MIAMI The only American driver in the field was Scott Speed, who drove for the only American team, Andretti Autosport. Speed was 10th on the starting grid, but each lap he challenged those ahead of him and made one pass after another. During the penultimate lap he took over second position and then chased down the leader. He got within a millisecond of the first-place car just as the checkered flag dropped to end the race, rewarding Speed with a second-place finish in his home Formula E race.

“Racing this car is the most unique experience I’ve had in my racing career,” notes Speed.

“Without being able to hear the engine (and with such advanced technology), you have to be a lot more calculating in the car. Fortunately, this is a strong suit of mine because I’ve always been a methodical thinking-type of driver. It’s much more of a chess game in this series because you’re dealing with varying energy levels. And with so many important people behind it, [Formula E] will

IMAGES COURTESY OF FIA FORMULA E COMMUNICATIONS DEPARTMENT

surely be a big part of motor racing’s future.”

s the world becomes more sensitive to sustainability, so does the auto industry. While hybrid cars have been on the market for a while, experts predict with continued battery development, the future will be all-electric.

In fact, this year marked the world’s first-ever racing series featuring all-electric cars. Held on city streets around the world, the Formula E races began in Beijing with subsequent races taking place in Malaysia, Uruguay, Buenos Aires, Miami, Long Beach, Monte Carlo, Berlin and Moscow, The season finale was on June 27, 2015 in London.

I was in Miami for the first-ever Formula E race in North America—and it was amazing. Formula E cars closely resemble Formula 1 and Indy cars but they’re all-electric powered. The electric engines catapult them from 0 to 62 MPH in three seconds and to a top speed of 140 MPH. There are 10 teams in Formula E; each team has two drivers and each driver has two cars. At half distance, each driver pulls into the pits, jumps out of one car and slides into the other to complete the race.

This will be the format for the hour-long race until a battery is developed that can last the whole event.

All the elements that have thrilled race fans for decades are part of the show, but these cars burn no fuel so there’s no exhaust, no fumes and zero emissions.

In addition to the pristine air, the most notable difference between Formula E and other forms of motorsport is the reduced noise level. With no screaming engines, the sound is limited to squealing tires, transmission gears and the whisper of the wind.

A longtime sponsor of motorsports, TAG Heuer considered Formula E its next logical step in marketing since the company is genuinely committed to sustainability. (In fact, its facilities in Switzerland have solar roofs!)

In addition to preserving the planet, perhaps the most significant contribution of Formula E racing is that the technology being developed in its advancement will ultimately translate to even better road car safety.

50

If the car in your dreams is not the car in your garage, we should talk.

The New 2016 Mercedes-Maybach S600 Sedan

2013 SL550 ROADSTER

8.5” longer than the S550. 0-60 in five seconds. 12-cylinder 6 liter engine.

Experience The Fletcher Jones Difference.

FLETCHER JONES MOTORCARS N

E

W

P

O

R

T

B

E

A

C

H

330 0 Jamb o r e e Road • w w w . f j m e r c e d e s . c o m

7 1 8

▼

▼

9 4 9

3 0 0 0

conservation

Underwater PIONEERS Life began underwater. To understand life, we must understand the underwater world. BY DAVID A. ROSE

52

TOP: 2014 North American Rolex Scholar Ana Sofia Guerra with a pot-bellied seahorse in Nelson Bay, NSW, Australia CENTER: 2014 North American Rolex Scholar Ana Sofia Guerra with a potato cod at Cod Hole, Great Barrier Reef, Australia BOTTOM: Crown of Thorns eradication by National Park Service of American Samoa employee in American Samoa

IMAGES COURTESY OF OUR WORLD - UNDERWATER SCHOLARSHIP SOCIETY

T

here’s something comforting about knowing that while we carry on with our daily lives, special people are acting as stewards of our oceans and lakes.

Rolex Watch USA is the founding corporate sponsor for “Our World Underwater Scholarship Society.” They’ve been the organization’s partner since its inception in 1974, with the goal to provide young people with experiences that will lead to their becoming leaders in marine life conservation. During the past 41 years, they’ve awarded 91 Rolex scholarships in North America, Europe and Australia as well as 89 internships. Many of the winners have established careers in underwater sciences, marine research and photography.

Each year, the Society awards three new scholarships to deserving young people, with financial support provided by Rolex and equipment provided by various marine equipment manufacturers. Each scholar’s hands-on work is done side by side with underwater professionals. They travel the world to experience field studies, underwater research, scientific expeditions, laboratory assignments, equipment testing and design, photographic instruction, and other specialized assignments. Each scholar is required to keep a journal and to produce a film of their year, which they present at the Explorers Club in New York City at the conclusion of the scholarship period. Scholars are on the road from spring to spring with very little time at a home base, spending most of the year with the society’s friends, hosts and coordinators around the world.

Michele Felberg from Houston is the 2015 North American Rolex Scholar. She’s always had an affinity for water, but it wasn’t until she took Environmental Studies at the University of California that she discovered her love for the underwater world. Michele and the other scholars received their awards at the New York Yacht Club, where they were presented with beautiful Rolex timepieces. “After I leave New York I go to North Carolina for a week of training, then to the Dominican Republic, the Pacific Northwest and then the Bahamas,” she told us excitedly, explaining that her long-term goal is to get people more involved in marine conservation.

designers

A CHANGING OF THE GUARD

Phillips House takes over modern American luxury.

Phillips House Affair Collection photographed on Fisher Island, Florida

Phillips House designers Lisa Phillips Frankel and Danielle Frankel Nemiroff

54

T

here are few jewelry brands in history that have made the impact Phillips House has in its first five years. It was launched in 2010 after years of highly coveted bespoke work by American designers Lisa Phillips Frankel and Danielle Frankel Nemiroff, who recognized an important void within the jewelry space.

“At the time, we saw jewelry that would largely fall on the extreme ends of the aesthetic spectrum: styles that were either so heavily fashion-driven they were not wearable every day, or styles that were so diluted they lacked a fashion component,” Lisa explains.

Accordingly, the duo set out to create a signature style of gold and diamond jewelry that mixed elevated fashion with a wearable, classically chic aesthetic to allow women to thrive inside their zones of comfort.

The origins of Phillips House, created on Florida’s Fisher Island off Miami Beach, closely reflect this sentiment of casual luxury. The island, accessible only by private ferry, was originally a cloistered retreat for William Vanderbilt. It transferred hands until ultimately becoming a private beach club offering some of the most exotic landscapes in Florida.

Over the years, Lisa and Danielle would sit there for hours at a time, sketch books scattered across the table, gazing through the palm trees, past the roaming peacocks, beyond Rosemary’s Cottage and overlooking the Vanderbilt Mansion to the ocean while creating their jewelry designs.

In April 2010, as the demand for their styles became overwhelming, the duo officially launched the collection. The industry immediately took notice; the well-respected fashion industry publication Women’s Wear Daily put the brand’s rings on its famed cover—the first still-life jewelry cover they had done in over seven years.

Since then, Phillips House has expanded to the four corners of the country into 60 U.S. markets, onto the covers and pages of every nearly fashion publication of note, and even onto of the First Lady of the United States, who selected the brand’s earrings as the sole piece of jewelry to wear during a meeting with her international fashion counterpart Kate Middleton (the Duchess of Cambridge) and Queen Elizabeth II of England.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Weight Carat 1.53

ColorE Grade

Grade Clarity VS1

Grade CutExcellent

For over 80 years, GIA has brought clarity and global standards to gem evaluation. A GIA report means expert, independent verification from the creator of the 4Cs and the world’s most widely recognized gem authority.

Look for GIA-graded diamonds and jewelers who offer them.

CARLSBAD ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MUMBAI NEW YORK OSAKA RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO

designers

Clockwise from top: The Polvere di Sogni collection; the DNA collection; Marino Pesavento; Chiara Carli

BOLD&

beautiful Pesavento offers unique creativity and innovation.

BY BARBARA WHEAT

C

reativity and innovation are the hallmarks of the Italian jewelry line Pesavento, which has been experimenting with unusual materials and proprietary jewelry-making processes since 1992 to create bold and vibrant designs. In the early days of the brand, creators Marino Pesavento and Chiara Carli were influenced by architecture, but their current inspiration comes from the multitude of beauty found in their surroundings. Their goal remains the same as it has always been: to put together beautiful pieces that every woman will enjoy wearing, whether on a daily basis or for special occasions.

Each and every Pesavento piece is crafted entirely in Italy and is the result of the combination of the classic workings of the Italian goldsmith’s tradition, innovation and technological experimentation.

Marino Pesavento describes the development process as being quite time-consuming, especially since it includes the actual wearing of the jewelry over several days to “understand the piece and discover ways to fine-tune it.” After any needed revisions are decided upon, the final

prototype is made and worn once again to satisfy the team.

One of Pesavento’s proprietary manufacturing techniques can be seen in the DNA Collection: a process that delicately weaves elastic links into the sterling silver design, giving the piece a soft, flexible property. Like most of the Pesavento collections, DNA rings contain adjustable bars along the interior for easy sizing. Materials include antique pink sterling silver, 18K pale pink gold oxidized with a sulfate, and ruthenium sterling silver.

Rhodium sterling silver dome rings, multi-colored leather and sterling silver-wrapped pieces characterize the Pixel Collection, which also features diamond accents in some designs.

Meanwhile, Pesavento’s “dust” is a proprietary manufacturing technique that utilizes nanotechnology to combine enamel with other natural products. It can be seen in the company’s Links and Polvere di Sogni collections.

Pesavento designs are the perfect additions to any jewelry wardrobe for women seeking an added touch of elegance and sophistication.

56

速ROBERTOCOIN

CENTO AND NEW BAROCCO COLLECTIONS

trends

Subtly

sensual

Fall is a season of peek-a-boo metals, natural gem hues, and body-skimming shapes.

BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

W

ith long, bodygliding necklaces and earrings, gems in nude and nature-inspired hues, and open-work metals that are tastefully suggestive, it’s a jewelry season that’s all about effortless elegance. There’s a sexiness, too, but it’s subtle. “Fashion right now is very focused on ethereal loveliness,” says David Wolfe, creative director of international forecasting agency The Doneger Group, in New York City. “We’re in a sort of backlash movement, with an almost refreshing return to innocence. Fashion and accessories have lots of lacy looks, pastry-icing colors, and plenty of sweetness and light.”

Jewelry blogger Monica Stephenson of iDazzle has seen signs of this lighter mood since the beginning of the year, when she attended fine

jewelry’s VicenzaOro fair in Vicenza, Italy. As website editor of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group (CJDG), she noted, “Many of the jewelry shapes are distilled down to their essence, simplified and stylized. There are lots of lyrical shapes, like scrolls, open-work and lacy filigree.” As for the notable trending motifs, “Nature rules. Butterflies, flowers, and leaves,” she specified.

What else is new? Says Stephenson: “Negative space is everywhere, with cutouts and open-work in every conceivable pattern. So your skin becomes part of the design, revealed where the jewelry becomes undone.”

Consider adding a few of these contemporary “space-y” styles, starting with a bangle bracelet, ring, or collar necklace.

THAT 70s SHOW IS BACK Everything old is new again. For example, chokers certainly hark back to the 1970s, according to Wolfe. “We’re definitely revisiting the 1970s in fashion,” he notes. “There’s so much fringe—long, short, color, silk—any kind of fringe.” In stores this year, you’ve spotted it on many of those everyday cool-again hobo handbags, right? “Now, it’s hit the jewelry world in a big way, too,” says Edelstein. “There are sexy, swingy, fringy details in all kinds of designs, from simple earrings to major necklaces.

We’re talking tassels, full sweeps and micro-drapes in metal and in stones.

It’s fun and flirty, and the movement is eye-catching.”

Speaking of eye-catching, gems this season aren’t as bold and bright as in cool-weather months in the recent past. Nonetheless, they are a feast for the eyes, particularly because many of the on-trend hues also evoke that fashion-fun era of singers Stevie Nicks, Cher and Donna Summer. “Lots of 1970s colors are being revived, like browns, yellows, caramels and neutrals,” says Wolfe. “So this fall and winter, the same neutrals that you saw in spring, which were light, have now gone dark.

They’re getting pops of color with sunshine yellows and all different blues.” In jewelry, lots of luxe brands have added brown diamonds to their designs and, as in clothing, there are often monochromatic mixes of cream, cognac and champagne.

From top: Marco Bicego 18K gold Goa necklace; Penny Preville diamond and rose gold ring; Roberto Coin Tanaquilla gold earrings with brown diamonds

58

With a soft color palette so in-vogue, be sure to add something in opal to your jewelry wardrobe. The gem that exploded onto the fashion scene last year just keeps getting more popular. The whole spectrum of blues, in fact, is something to think about this season. In addition to opal, ask your jeweler to show you some new designs in blue chalcedony, labradorite, blue quartz, aquamarine, Larimar, blue zircon, tanzanite or blue sapphire.

Pretty-in-pink stones are also spotlighted in many new collections, especially morganite and pink sapphire. And now’s the time to ask about the different peachy shades—try light orange sapphire or peach moonstone—which are reminiscent of the 1970s sun-kissed oranges.

THE TOP THREE NECKLACES Wolfe calls the current fashion mood we’re in “one of gentle modernism— Xanax-to-wear. Cool, calm and collected. Relaxed, sublime simplicity.” So how do you keep this easygoing mindset front and center during your jewelry shopping this season? Well, there are three must-have necklaces for an au courant look: Y-necklaces, long station chains and short ‘n’ slim chokers/collars.

“Layering has also reached new lengths,” Stephenson noted on her blog, while previewing luxury collections at the Italian show. “I saw new mid-length necklaces, but they were almost always layered, worn with shorter and longer lengths.” Longer chains with stations, often very inventive and asymmetrical, are also important,” she said, “They’re very versatile—when doubled up, your look completely changes.”

On her blog Cindy’s TrendTracker, Cindy Edelstein, president of the

Fashion right now is very focused on ethereal loveliness. Lots of lacy looks, pastry-icing colors, and plenty of sweetness and light.” —David Wolfe Jeweler’s Resource Bureau, talked about shorter necklaces, saying, “Fashion is definitely ripe for the choker. Maybe it’s a thing that comes and goes with rising hemlines and dipping cleavage.”

SLENDER, SEXY AND SOMETIMES STACKED Despite what Wolfe calls “a pretty fashion period in time, not dominatrix and leathery,” the newest jewelry often manages to call attention to various body parts. As iDazzle’s Stephenson explains, popular designs with negative-space openness allow your skin to show through. Beyond that, however, shapes themselves are super-sensual. Ultra-long Ynecklaces dip daringly downward toward plunging necklines, while lengthy matchstick-thin stiletto earrings slightly and suggestively swing from the lobe, ending just above the shoulder.

If you decide on a great pair of stilettos, Edelstein recommends that “You might want to also think about adding a single stud or ear climber or cuff on just one ear.” Indeed, that’s one fashion-forward way to “layer” earrings. And because jewelry, in general, is about slender silhouettes this year, stacking everything is more popular than ever. Quite simply, it’s one of those years when the more you pile on, the more on-trend you’ll look.

From top: Ivanka Trump Y-necklace in 18K white gold; Penny Preville diamond and gold stiletto earrings; Penny Preville double opal and white gold bangle bracelet

59

pearls

TIMELESS &

TRENDY

Today’s fashion-forward pearls can be mixed with traditional styles. BY RUTH J. KATZ

THE CULTURE OF MIKIMOTO

T

The genius behind the cultured pearl was Kokichki Mikimoto. Prior to his determined experimentation over 100 years ago, pearls existed naturally, and only naturally. They are created when an “intruder” (something even as tiny as a grain of sand) enters a mollusk, and in an effort to protect itself against the invading irritant, the oyster coats it with calcium carbonate, or nacre.

Mikimoto developed a way to induce the oyster to create pearls “on demand” by introducing that irritant by hand, a laborintensive operation. Today, Mikimoto produces the world’s finest pearls in designs from classic to high-fashion.

According to Meyer Hoffman, chief operating officer, Mikimoto America, “Design and fine craftsmanship are the core principles of Mikimoto, and the classic cultured pearl strand is iconic to the brand.

Our new collection features an array of gemstones, vibrant colors, and new shapes, drawing inspiration from an imagined, magical world, exploring new and innovative ways to create jewelry that showcases the pearl, nature’s purest gem, in unexpected playful ways.”

he pearl is truly the world’s most timeless jewel. Cleopatra is said to have created a lavish repast by crushing pearls into nectar, while Coco Chanel was always awash in a sea of pearls (and is an excellent model to emulate by owning many strands, worn mix-and-match). So whatever pearls you buy today will become tomorrow’s heirlooms, as these gorgeous gems are always a solid investment.

For fall/holiday 2015, fashion-forward designers are making bold statements with pearls in fanciful ways, whether mixed with cascades of rainbow-hued gemstone briolettes, offset with semi-precious stones, like lapis or turquoise, or wrapped like a twisted rope

(a torsade) and set with staccato notes of coral or jade. Today, pearls are often accented with rondelles (bead-like “spacers”) of emeralds, rubies, sapphires or diamonds, which telegraph chic opulence alongside the snowy orb. At the other end of the spectrum, we’ve also seen pearls mixed with wood, ebony— even denim!

Still, the traditional look never feels dated.

The crowning jewel of a bride’s wedding-day finery—a single, luxe strand of pearls—remains the just-right accessory. And that same single strand—whether crafted with pearls of the same size or graduated—packs an equally strong fashion punch worn with a simple T-shirt or a red-carpet-worthy gown.

In the words of Peter Bazar, president of the Cultured Pearl Association of America (a non-profit association comprised of some 50 pearl manufacturers, wholesalers and dealers), “Pearls never go out of style and are the most appropriate jewelry for career women, socialites, politicians—any woman who wants to feel and look classy and sophisticated.”

60

PERFECTGEMS

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

THE PERFECT BLACK DRESS

Artist Alex Katz remains fascinated by the little black dress. His Black Dress project was first created as a series of paintings done on door panels, depicting standing women in the classic fashion design. He recently revealed his Black Dress, A Suite of New Prints at the Mary Ryan Gallery in New York City. This exhibition centered around nine original screen prints, each rendered at a monumental size of 80 x 30 inches, which mimic the size of the paintings. These prints follow Katz’s signature style of exploring portraiture and monochromatic elements. Among the series’ fans is noted fashion designer Calvin Klein, who wrote: “Alex Katz’s Black Dress series is… modern and wonderful… And despite their apparent simplicity, they’re extremely expressive and perfectly capture the essence of his subjects. You can’t help but notice these women, these beautiful enigmas drawn in bold and certain strokes. You wonder who they are, how they live, what they feel, just exactly what they have going on.”

GRANDE VINO

Whenever you feel the need to celebrate a truly special occasion, open a bottle of Rocca di Frassinello Baffonero Maremma Toscana. This rare merlot (only 3,000 bottles were produced) takes the name of the vineyard in which the grapes are cultivated. Produced from the first vines to be planted at Rocca di Frassinello, Baffonero, the wine is fermented using natural yeasts in stainless steel for 15 days at a controlled temperature. It is then aged 14 months, followed by 12 months of bottle refinement. This fresh and truly impressive wine is an intense ruby red and the bouquet is concentrated dark fruit notes, including blackberry and blueberry. Fresh and full, it’s an ideal accompaniment to a variety of meats or aged cheeses. And good news: the makers even suggest it as a meditation wine.

62

EXOTIC INDULGENCES

If you want to experience the far corners of the world in ultimate opulence, the Asia Transpacific Journeys team specializes in customized itineraries built from scratch around a traveler’s interests. Perhaps you’d like to tour Australia’s renowned Barossa Valley vineyards with an expert sommelier? Would you prefer to plunge into Indonesia’s natural beauty and culture aboard your own luxurious single-cabin yacht, which provides complete privacy along with the services of a personal chef, massage therapist, snorkeling expert and personal concierge? Why not board the Sanctuary Ananda luxury riverboat in Mandalay for a four-night cruise down the Irrawaddy to Bagan? Or maybe go to Cambodia, where you can cap off a visit to Angkor with a stay at the Song Saa Private Island resort, located on Cambodia’s pristine Koh Rong archipelago, a deserted oasis of virgin rainforests, tropical reefs and glistening white beaches.

STATING THE FACTS

This fall and winter, The San Francisco Wine School is offering a three-day intensive “edu-vacation” for serious wine lovers who want the chance to learn about California wines (California produces roughly 90 percent of U.S. wine). The school’s founder David Glancy, one of only 12 people in the world to hold both a Master Sommelier diploma and a Certified Wine Educator credential, created this program because he believes that all lovers of California wine should know the whole story of the state’s diverse range of climates, grape varietals and wine styles.

Those who don’t have the full three days to spare but are visiting the San Francisco Bay Area for vacation or work can attend any part of a SFWS professional wine program as a single-class workshop and still take part in a truly elite experience.

KODIAK MOMENT

ADRIANA LO

If you’ve always wanted to get up close and personal with a bear, Natural Habitat Adventures (Nat Hab) can fulfill your fantasy. The company recently chartered a vessel, which it rechristened M/V Natural Habitat Ursus (Latin for bear), and is preparing to take guests as close as is safely possible to the largest coastal grizzlies in the world. This new adventure, Alaska’s Coastal Grizzlies: Kodiak to Katmai, takes place in the spring and summer, and these photofocused departures are led by a naturalist guide who is also a professional photographer. While it’s not uncommon to find massive grizzlies in great numbers, there are only eight guests on each exploit, so get your reservation in early.

63

collecting

Parr

ABOVE

Stuart Parr’s vintage Italian motorcycles match unparalleled design and engineering.

BY DAVID A. ROSE

From left: The MV Agusta

P

eople who collect cars or motorcycles don’t always do so for their beauty or even for financial rewards. What they appreciate most often are performance and history. One such collector is Stuart Parr, an internationally renowned architect, artist and film producer (whose recent credits include Southpaw starring Jake Gyllenhaal, and Nina starring Zoe Saldana and David Oyelowo).

Parr currently owns 26 gorgeous Italian motorcycles, including some from Ducati, MV Agusta, Magni, Laverda and other Italian marques, primarily from the 1970s. ”I began collecting Italian motorcycles about 10 years ago, and even though these bikes are in museum condition, I ride them all,” he insists. “In fact, if it’s 36 degrees or above, I’m riding.”

What makes his collection so appealing? “I find the combination of design and engineering on these bikes immensely beautiful,” explains Parr.

“During the era my bikes were made, people would race these magnificent machines on the track, and later show them off on public roads. They’re a perfect combination of speed, balance and beauty.”

Less so for today’s bikes, says Parr. “I don’t especially like the design of

some of the new motorcycles. There are new cars too that I don’t like. Some of today’s designs have radiuses and angles that just don’t match up,” he explains. “I think the Italian motorcycle designers of the 1970s truly understood the need for this concept, and that’s why we have such fabulous bikes from that era.”

While Parr also owns some vintage cars, he finds the company of motorcycle enthusiasts more to his liking. “You can take a car guy out to a bar in Montana where there are a bunch of American muscle cars parked out front, and he or she would likely act a bit snobbish because they’re not Ferraris or Lamborghinis,” insists Parr. “Whereas if you have a group of motorcycle enthusiasts at a ranch where there are a bunch of motorcycles for them to ride, they’d go ahead and jump on any of them and just have a wonderful time.”

With his busy schedule, one might wonder when Parr might actually ride his magnificent machines. He finds the time. For example, when going from one activity to another in New York City, he simply hops on one of his motorcycles. Crosstown travel could not possibly be more pleasurable.

64

IMAGES COURTESY OF STUART PARR

750s, Stuart Parr atop a NYPD motorcycle

76 °F

BELOW ZERO

It is at the coldest and most remote extremities of the planet, visited by expeditions and studied by universities but never inhabited by man, that the soul of TUDOR North Flag belongs. A finely honed instrument, with the first movement developed and produced by TUDOR sheltered within, it is the modern adventurer’s solid companion, beginning a new era in the brand’s history.

TUDOR NORTH FLAG Self-winding mechanical Manufacture TUDOR MT5621 movement, officially certified chronometer, non-magnetic silicon spring, approx. 70 hour power reserve. Sapphire case back, waterproof to 100 m, 40 mm steel case. Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more. TUDOR Watch U.S.A., LLC. New York

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

FALL/WINTER 2015/16