Traditional Jewelers

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPECIAL WATCH EDITION

RENEW AND REFRESH

F A S H I O N

I S L A N D ,

SPRING/SUMMER 2014

CELEBRATE SPRING! TRAVEL THE WORLD WITH INSPIRATO

N E W P O R T

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Inspirato® is a private travel membership club that requires a non-refundable Initiation Fee and Annual Membership Fee. Membership is subject to acceptance of terms and conditions and other reservation and use rules. Availability, benefits, minimum stay requirements and nightly fees may vary by residence, date and membership option selected. See website (www.inspirato.com) for complete details. Inspirato is owned by Inspirato LLC and operated by its subsidiary Best of 52, LLC, 1637 Wazee Street, Denver, CO 80202, info@inspirato.com, 303-586-7771. Operator is registered as Florida Seller of Travel Registration No. ST38403; Washington Seller of Travel Registration No. UBI 603086598; California Seller of Travel Registration No. CST 2107465.

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spring/summer 2014

58 FEATURES 12 Welcome Letter 16 Behind the Scenes 18 Traditional Community 20 Personalities: John Braeger of GARYS 22 Red Carpet 26 Profile: Armenta 28 Profile: Stephen Webster 30 Profile: Fred Leighton 32 From the Runways 38 Floral Fantasy

WATCHES A C C E NT M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 014

60 Destinations: Inspirato Style 62 Perfect Gems 64 Style: In the Mix

WATCH SECTION 44 Watch Advisor 46 Spotlight: 10 Hot Watches GETTY 1 PASIEKA

48 Q&A: Max Sotodeh 50 Profile: Patek Philippe

43

52 Service: Watches Are Not Perpetual Motion Machines 56 Watchmaking: Hooked on Classics 58 Wheels: Need for Speed

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2014

SPECIAL WATCH EDITION

RENEW AND REFRESH

36

D E N V E R

8

•

CELEBRATE SPRING! TRAVEL THE WORLD WITH INSPIRATO

L A S

V E G A S

•

P H O E N I X

ON THE COVER

Model Katherina Linke (Wilhemina Models) wears Pesavento Polvere di Sogni collection earrings, necklace, rings and bracelets.

Photography and creative by Edwin Santa. Makeup and hair by Eliut Tarin. Styling by Jennifer Ferkenhoff.

TRADITIONALJEWELERS.COM

FASHION ISLAND 203 NEWPORT CENTER DRIVE NEWPORT BEACH, CA ( 9 4 9 ) 721- 9 010 HOURS: M O N - F R I : 10 : 0 0 A M - 8 : 0 0 P M S AT : 1 0 : 0 0 A M - 7 : 0 0 P M S U N : 11 : 0 0 A M - 6 : 0 0 P M

MICHAEL POLLAK CEO SHEREEN POLLAK PRESIDENT DAMON GROSS COO BRENT SEYLER STORE MANAGER MAX SOTODEH SALES MANAGER JENNIFER FERKENHOFF DIRECTOR OF MARKETING MOLLY WOJCIK DIRECTOR OF INTERACTIVE MARKETING

PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP

PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA

PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI

PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN CREATIVE DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS JOHN FRASCONE

MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES

DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2014. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

10

oyster perpe tual date just l ady

rolex

oyster perpetual and datejust are trademarks.

31

welcome

The Dawn of a New Tradition…

We can’t contain our excitement!

After 30 years, it is our privilege to enhance your experience at Traditional Jewelers as you discover a modern environment in our new location at Fashion Island. Conveniently located between the iconic koi pond and the Grand Lawn, this summer Traditional Jewelers will unveil an extraordinary new 10,000 square foot store, which promises to enamor jewelry lovers, watch enthusiasts and diamond aficionados alike.

Our new store will house watch boutiques including Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe and Panerai. Additionally, we will have special presentations of A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC along with 10 other highly soughtafter Swiss watch collections.

Jewelry lovers will be delighted to hear that Fred Leighton jewelry will now be a special highlight at the new Traditional Jewelers. Fred Leighton collection is a favorite on Hollywood red carpets and is known internationally as the premier curated collection of estate jewels. To read more on Fred Leighton’s designs, see page 30 in this issue.

You’ll also find an amazing selection of modern and classic collections from premier jewelry designers Stephen Webster, Kwiat, Pesavento, Penny Preville and Ashoka, plus exquisite collections we have discovered from Italy, Spain and Germany.

State-of-the-art facilities for watchmaking and custom jewelry design will allow you the opportunity to engage our jewelers to create a custom design on a 3-D CAD display, enhancing your experience while creating a special design of your dreams. And of course, we will continue to be dedicated to serving you with world-class customer service.

We are planning to host grand re-opening events in mid-August and look forward to inviting you to the festivities. As we approach this exciting milestone, please enjoy this issue of ACCENT magazine.

We look forward to seeing you soon.

Warm Regards,

Michael Pollak

12

Mediterranean Sea. “Gamma� men in training.

The diver emerging from the water is wearing a Panerai compass on his wrist.

history a n d heroes. radiomir 1940 3 days (ref. 514) available in steel and red gold

CONNECT WITH US \ZILQ\QWVITRM_MTMZ[ KWU OQ^M[ aW] ]VXIZITTMTML IKKM[[ \W \PM TI\M[\ QV Ă…VM RM_MTZa IVL \QUMXQMKM[ Join the Traditional Jewelers community by connecting with us on social media to get insider information on all the latest trends and happenings, as well as new product unveilings and much more.

FACEBOOK TraditionalJewelers

INSTAGRAM traditionaljewelers

PINTEREST tradjewelers

BEHIND THE SCENES At our spring fashion shoot, we sat down with photographer Edwin Santa to find out where his creative streak comes from.

What was your inspiration for this shoot?

Spring always gets me inspired: grass, trees, flowers, leaves, birds and color come to mind when the season approaches.

For this photo shoot we wanted to go with everything in white and let the jewelry "bloom” in color.

Who are some of the artists, photographers and fashion designers that have inspired you?

Since early in my life I have been inspired by fashion.

I admired the work of great photographers like Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Paolo Roversi, Ruven Afanador, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, Erwin Olaf... and so on! But I have been even more greatly influenced by the great fashion houses like Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga, Valentino, Ippolita 18K Alexander McQueen, Lanvin and Prada.

What other creative projects are you working on?

Right now I’m working on a few personal projects.

One of them is an exhibition of my work for Art Basel week in Miami. I'm bringing together my love and passion for art, fashion and design .

Rock Candy Gelato collection in sailor

Tell us about the places you have lived. What do you like about where you’re currently living, in Miami?

I moved almost six years ago to the States from Bogotá, Colombia. I have lived in New York, Colorado and Tennessee— wherever my work has taken me! I'm now based in Miami, where the weather is beautiful all year and where the art scene is growing. But I’m always excited and open to where life will be taking me next.

What is your next dream destination?

I love to travel and meet new people, new cultures... there's a lot of places I have left to experience. I would love to go next to China or Japan.

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TRADITIONAL COMMUNITY

CYSTINOSIS RESEARCH FOUNDATION’S NATALIE’S WISH CELEBRATION Last April, 450 guests attended the 2013 Natalie’s Wish Celebration and raised a stunning $2.2 million for cystinosis research. Attendance and funds raised broke Cystinosis Research Foundation records. The fundraising dinner featured American Idol winner and Las Vegas headliner Taylor Hicks, and the All-American Boys Chorus. Among other packages auctioned off, Omega partnered with Traditional Jewelers to donate a limited-edition timepiece and an incredible NASA tour in Houston, Texas. The package included Omega’s Speedmaster 40th Anniversary Apollo 17 Limited-Edition watch and a tour of NASA’s Johnson Space Center with Gemini and Apollo astronaut Lt. General Thomas P. Stafford. Omega has had a unique relationship with NASA over the past 40 years and has played in an integral role in American history; Omega is the first and only watch worn on the surface of the moon and approved by NASA for all manned space missions.

HOAG HOSPITAL FOUNDATION'S 47TH ANNUAL CHRISTMAS CAROL BALL Traditional Jewelers teamed up with watch company Longines, the official watch and timekeeper of the Kentucky Derby, to donate an incredible live auction package at the Hoag Hospital Foundation’s 47th Annual Christmas Carol Ball. The lucky winner received a Conquest Classic 18K pink gold timepiece from Longines’ newest collection and a VIP package for two throughout the 2014 Kentucky Derby weekend. The unique experience includes access to the Kentucky Oaks Fashion Contest, the Taste of the Derby, the Kentucky Derby Winner’s Circle Party and the exclusive Turf Club at Churchill Downs.

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personalities

KNOWYour Neighbors In this issue of Accent, we check in with John Braeger of GARYS, our favorite family-owned men’s specialty shop and Fashion Island neighbor.

Tell us a bit about the history of your business and the mission of GARYS. GARYS has been a staple in the community for over 45 years. We pride ourselves on being a leader in men’s fashion and our mission is to continue to provide men the latest in quality and design with the best possible service. Our staff has been with us for many years and everyone is very qualified. It is not uncommon to go to a customer’s home and clean their closet. Relationships are the most important piece of our business.

Who is the average GARYS shopper?

We have a very diverse clientele because we can dress a man from head to toe, in anything from jeans to suits. Since we have been around for so long, GARYS is lucky enough to get tiers of family generations shopping with us: sons, fathers and grandfathers can all find what they need.

The typical client we work with is a professional, who likes having all of his shopping done in one space. We also offer a very warm environment with incredible customer service that keeps our clients coming back.

Over the last few years in an unstable economy, we’ve made a conscious effort to offer products at all price points, so even if the customer is not at the highest level of affluence they can still find something in our store.

What are some of the trends in menswear for the upcoming spring/summer season?

Colors, textures and layers are some of the exciting things happening in menswear. Men are not as wary as before about color and are willing to take risks. For spring and summer, linen suits, shorter hems and streamlined bottoms are probably the biggest trends coming over from Europe. Give them a try!

Any tips for dressing well in the warmer months, without looking too casual or sloppy?

Always finish off an outfit with a sports jacket or great outerwear piece.

In the warmer months we offer them in an array of lightweight linens, cottons and wools. This will make your outfit complete and gives you a place to put your wallet, phone and keys.

How can a man take his look to the next level with accessories?

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Like anything else—all in moderation. A pocket square in a jacket always gives the finishing touch. Try to coordinate the colors in the pocket square to the underlying colors in the rest of your outfit (shirt, tie, pants, socks). This makes the subtle tones pop. But the best accessory, in my opinion, is a great watch.

What are some of the watches you have in your own collection, or have your eye on to add to your collection?

My taste in watches is very classic. Just like when I choose my clothing, I gravitate to brands that I am familiar with and that I know offer the highest quality. My first watch was from Cartier, and when I got married my wife bought me a Rolex Chronograph. Since then I have added a Panerai, which I like to wear when I am dressed in more of a sporty look.

Where do you travel for inspiration?

Inspiration can be found everywhere when it comes to clothing, but my favorite places to go are Italy and New York. When I travel to these places I can see many different looks.

Where can we find you when you’re off duty? Either on the golf course or spending time with my family and friends. We enjoy entertaining at home and trying new restaurants in town.

What are some of your favorite restaurants?

Gulfstream, Mastro’s, Quiet Woman, Javier’s, and a new favorite, Fig & Olive.

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SAMIRA WILEY at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week

MIKE COPOLA/GETTY IMAGES FOR MERCEDES-BENZ

CARLA GUGINO at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards

COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN

red carpet

REGINA HALL at the Hollywood premiere of The Best Man Holiday 22

COURTESY OF SAZINGG AND KUUMBA

JULIETTE BINOCHE at the Cartier: Le Style et l’Histoire exhibition in Paris

RINDOFF PETROFF-CASTEL

RED HOT!

KATE WINSLET at the BFI London Film Festival Labor Day screening

BEN PRUCHNIE FOR PARAMOUNT PICTURES INTL

COURTESY OF CHIMENTO

EMMA ROBERTS at the 2014 Vanity Fair Oscar Party

In this bold hue, there’s no chance of blending in.

EMMY ROSSUM at the BTJA 3rd Annual Critics’ Choice Awards 24

COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN

KELLY OSBOURNE at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards

COURTESY OF AMRAPALI

JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

profile

Emily Armenta’s business model may not be typical, but her company’s unique take on celebrating the beauty of women—both on the inside and out—is making its mark in the jewelry industry.

E

ARMENTA’S

fresh

APPROACH

mily Armenta comes from a family of artists and has always had a lot of support to express herself through artwork. As a result, she says, “I have been designing, sketching and working with stones ever since I was a young girl. Designing jewelry has not only been a vehicle for me to express my creativity, but also my thoughts and emotions.”

It wasn’t until she began an MBA program that she realized her passion could become a career path.

“While taking an entrepreneurship class at Rice, I was given an assignment to create a fictitious company and write a business plan,” Armenta explains. “I chose to focus my project on my passion, which is designing jewelry. I was very fortunate to have the support of the school and an amazing mentor who not only believed in me, but also gave me a chance to fulfill my dream.”

Since then, Armenta’s aesthetic has evolved and matured, and she has found deeper inspiration after reading the Spanish poetry of Fedrico Garcia Lorca, who wrote about a creative force that dwells within all of us, known as duende. He writes that duende “is a power and not a behavior; it is the struggle that one must endure to create something of greatness.” Armenta uses this principle as a starting point for her creative process.

The results are her bold, striking designs primarily made of 18K and 22K yellow gold, 18K rose gold and “midnight” oxidized sterling silver with diamonds and gemstones. Armenta mixes her own yellow and rose golds to acquire the exact color she has envisioned.

The company’s culture is equally driven by Armenta’s commitment to duende. She makes a point to hire and promote women who are talented, but not necessarily qualified in a traditional way. “I have chosen to hire women based on their passion and courage for life rather than their skill set,” says Armenta. “I hire people who have duende. I am so proud we have trained and educated every person at the studio, and they have blossomed into incredibly skilled craftsmen, each of whom are true artisans.

“I cannot imagine outsourcing my art and missing out on the creativity that takes place every day. I am able to see firsthand how believing in duende can make the impossible a reality.”

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I S

M Y

E V E R Y T H I N G

THE CENTER OF MY UNIVERSE™ FROM FOREVERMARK

© 2 0 1 3 FO R E V E R M A R K . FO R E V E R M A R K ®,

Less than one percent of the world ’s diamonds c an c arr y the Forevermark inscription — a promise that each is beautif ul, rare and responsibly sourced .

® , C E N T E R O F M Y U N I V E R S E ™ A N D S H E I S M Y E V E R Y T H I N G ™ A R E T R A D E M A R K S O F T H E D E B E E R S G R O U P O F C O M PA N I E S .

S H E

Forevermark is part of the De Beers group of companies.

profile

Stephen

WEBSTER We caught up with the acclaimed jewelry designer to find out what he’s up to.

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PROFESSIONAL JEWELLER

S

tephen Webster, the London-based jewelry brand internationally heralded for its exquisite cutting-edge designs, has flourished under founder and creative director Stephen Webster MBE. Webster blends his love of traditional craftsmanship with his passion for music, fashion and art to produce contemporary, yet eternally chic and glamorous, jewelry. It’s a unique approach that has been some 37 years in the making and won him huge recognition within the industry.

From a modest upbringing near London, Webster has attracted some of the entertainment world’s most alluring and glamorous clients while also establishing a loyal global customer base. His enthusiasm, commitment and unmistakable creativity have helped him to earn numerous accolades including a three-time win of the British Luxury Jeweler of the Year award, Diamond Jeweler of the Year award, Jewelry Designer of the Year award, and UK Jewelry Brand of the Year award.

Webster was awarded an honorary Master of Arts degree from the University of Creative Arts in 2007 for his outstanding contribution to the arts, and also holds the honor of being a Liveryman of the City of London. In January 2013, Webster was awarded an MBE for his services to training and skills in the British Jewelry Industry.

While the jewels in Stephen Webster’s exquisite pieces may be multifaceted, his vision has always been singularly focused. Webster’s love for things that sparkle found him attending a Jewelry and Silversmith course at the Medway College of Design at the age of 16. By the end of his first term, Webster had become consumed by a passion for jewelry design and craftsmanship. After completing his training under Tony Sheperd, a former Prime Warden of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, Webster worked as a craftsman for several established London design houses.

Among many highly regarded commissions was the honor, on two occasions, of setting the De Beers Diamond Stakes Trophy.

After receiving the acclaimed De Beers honor in 1982, which marked an emergence for Webster into the fine jewelry market, he relocated to Canada to design for an independent jeweler. Following a brief return to the UK in 1984, Webster identified an opportunity for his jewelry in California.

His bold, iconic style and use of exotic and unusual gems attracted the fashion-savvy and uninhibited audience out west. After much success and expansion, Stephen returned to London in 1989 to establish the company that is known today as Stephen Webster Ltd. The original Stephen Webster philosophy has remained: to offer the consumer a true lifestyle experience founded upon the finest craftsmanship and distinctive creativity.

With one of the largest jewelry manufacturing and design studios in London’s West End, Webster is widely considered to be one of the international scene’s most accomplished and exciting designers. The company has expanded globally with close to 200 points of sale worldwide in the U.K., U.S., Russia and ex-Soviet Republics, Dubai, Japan, South Korea, Spain, Kuwait and Hong Kong.

Throughout his career, Webster has been an advocate of ethically and socially mined materials, traveling to mines in Tanzania and Peru to meet the mining communities and trace the origins of the materials he knows so

well. He’s an ambassador for Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold and works closely with Forevermark, the world’s most carefully selected diamonds.

Over the past few years he has designed one-of-a-kind pieces for a diverse list of clients that includes Madonna, Kate Moss, Jennifer Lopez, Cameron Diaz, Elton John, Jay Z, Ozzy Osborne, Johnny Depp and Russell Brand, to name a few. His talent has helped put fine jewelry back in the spotlight. “The fear factor, the reverence and the rather staid formality have all but disappeared,” Webster says.

“Magazines now have fashion shoots featuring H&M jeans accented by $10,000 diamond rings.

Adding a diamondstudded detail to a watch or a piece of jewelry no longer marks a customer as a flashy, ostentatious type. It just makes a person look...more lively.”

In His Own Words TJ: What is the best advice anyone has ever given you?

SW: Well the worst piece of advice I have ever been given was from my careers teacher at school. He advised me to take an apprenticeship at the local dockyard as a draftsman. Thankfully I didn’t listen.

TJ: Tell us a bit about your involvement with charity.

SW: I love making artistic pieces, and often charities will ask us to customize different objects that are then auctioned. I recently designed a rocking horse for Chiva Africa called the Mod Roka, which was inspired by the preferred mode of transport of the mod movement in the 1960s. Chiva Africa does fantastic work in helping those affected by the AIDS epidemic. We’ve also designed pendants for both Malaria No More and Mummy Rocks. My creative department loves to be able to get stuck in for a good cause.

TJ: In your opinion, what is the biggest misconception about fashion?

SW: That comfort is an enemy of style. Some of my most stylish things are my most comfortable.

TJ: How do you relax?

SW: At our country house in St Margaret’s, Kent. We have wonderful sea views and a big back garden that I’ve started to get involved with (I haven’t actually planted anything yet but I’m very good at pulling). Even though it’s only an hour and 45 minutes away from London, the pace changes so drastically that it forces you to relax with it, which is fantastic—unless you are trying to get something done.

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profile Fred Leighton diamond and black jade link necklace

FRED LEIGHTON A red carpet favorite comes to town.

ADAM GEBHARDT

W

e are delighted to highlight the gorgeous designs of Fred Leighton, a brand renowned for its extraordinary signature creations combining the aesthetic of the past with the finest materials and crafstmanship available in the world today.

In the mid-1970s, Fred Leighton opened his first boutique in New York’s Greenwich Village. In those early days, he sold unique crafts and ethnic jewels from around the world. In the process, he became widely admired for his memorable designs and eclectic taste.

By the time Fred Leighton opened the flagship salon on Madison Avenue in 1984, its cases housed a remarkable collection of the precious antique and vintage jewels that would become the hallmark of the brand.

Since then, the collection has grown in breadth and importance. Hollywood and Fred Leighton have long enjoyed an intimate relationship, with Leighton’s jewelry appearing on A-list actresses like Nicole Kidman, Sarah Jessica Parker, Cameron Diaz, and many more.

Through these red carpet appearances, and through thousands of pages of editorial coverage in the world’s top fashion publications, Fred Leighton has garnered global recognition for its designer brand.

As a design house, Fred Leighton finds its inspiration through careful

research and its vast collection of vintage and estate jewelry. Among the company’s holdings are pieces made during the greatest design periods in jewelry history. Ranging from the Georgian and Victorian periods through the Edwardian and Art Deco eras, to the designs of the mid-20th century, the Fred Leighton collection features beautiful works and signed pieces by the great masters in jewelry history.

This historic and important collection serves as an endless go-to source of inspiration that informs the modern-day creations of the company.

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Fred Leighton winding serpent diamond and opal earrings

SPRING 2014 Available at

GARYS Fashion Island Newport Beach 949.759.1622 garysonline.com

Knowledge. Wisdom. Truth

from the

RUNWAYS

2

3

1 NEARLY NUDE A rosy outlook on spring fashion.

6

5 1. IPPOLITA 18K gold Rock Candy Gelato rectangular stone hoops in mother of pearl. 2. PENNY PREVILLE 18K rose gold pendant with oval moonstone and diamonds, shown on diamond station chain. 3. PESAVENTO DNA pink sterling silver necklace. 4. CARTIER Tank Anglaise, medium model, 39.2 x 29.8 mm 18K rose gold case and bracelet with diamonds.

5. TACORI Pretty in Pink marquise-shaped round diamond eternity band. 6. ZOCCAI 18K rose gold triple-drop earrings.

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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

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from the

RUNWAYS

1

2 LOVELY LADY

Feminine flair is always on trend.

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6 5

1. FOREVERMARK Center of my Universe necklace with round diamond and round diamond halo. 2. EFVA ATTLING Mini Twosome and Stars 18K yellow gold necklace with diamonds.

EFVA ATTLING Mini Pencez de Moy (Think of Me) 18K yellow gold necklace. 3. RESERVE COLLECTION Long pearl necklace in 18K white gold with deco diamond motifs.

4. WELLENDORFF Keep Me Safe spinning ring in 18K white gold with diamonds. 5. TACORI Promise bangle bracelet in sterling silver and 18K rose gold. 6. MIKIMOTO Akoya cultured pearl stud earrings in 18K white gold.

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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

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2

1

MUTED METALS

3

This shining style is anything but dull.

6 4 5 1. MARCO BICEGO Delacati 18K hand-engraved yellow gold pendant necklace. 2. PESAVENTO Pixel sterling silver ring. 3. IVANKA TRUMP Metropolis 18K yellow gold and diamond drop earrings. 4. ARMENTA granulated bangles in blackened sterling silver and 18K yellow gold. 5. ADOLFO COURRIER Thin Choco stack ring set in 18K rose gold, enamel and diamonds. 6. IPPOLITA 18K gold and black sterling silver Notte bangle set.

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from the

RUNWAYS

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1

EVENTFUL EVENING

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Statement jewels make it a night to remember.

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5 1. STEPHEN WEBSTER Fly by Night Crystal Haze Flutter ring in 18K white gold with black opalescent crystal haze and black diamonds. 2. KWIAT drop earrings with white fancy and pavĂŠ yellow diamonds set in 18K yellow gold. 3. IPPOLITA Sterling silver Stella two-stone ring in chrysoprase doublet with diamonds. 4. PENNY PREVILLE 18K white gold and diamond drop earrings. 5. MARCO BICEGO 18K hand-engraved yellow gold bangle with multicolored rose-cut stones. 6. IVANKA TRUMP Patras blue sapphire earrings in 18K white gold with diamonds.

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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

4

f loral fantasy Defining statement jewels of the new spring chic.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWIN SANTA

Armenta Old World collection moonstone earrings, necklace, rings and bangles

Stephen Webster Murder She Wrote collection earrings, necklace, ring and bracelet

Zoccai Candy collection rings and necklace (shown as bracelet)

Penny Preville True Blue collection earrings and necklace and Classic collection bangles Photography and creative by Edwin Santa. Makeup and hair by Eliut Tarin.

Styling by Jennifer Ferkenhoff. Model Katharina Linke, Wilhelmina Models.

WATCHES GETTY 1 PASIEKA

A C C E NT M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 014

WATCH ADVISOR CAN ANY WATCH BE REPAIRED BY ANY TECHNICIAN, OR ARE WATCH MOVEMENTS UNIQUE TO EACH BRAND? It depends very much on the watch. Many watches use movements (the mechanism inside that actually keeps time) made in the tens or hundreds of thousands by major industry suppliers, but some luxury watches use their own in-house movements and materials that few watchmakers are trained to service, or can't obtain the parts to service properly.

Especially for luxury mechanical watches, we always suggest using a brandauthorized service center like the one in our store. Mistakes are very easy to make, and extremely expensive to fix.

How many parts are used to make a timepiece, and how many hours go into constructing it?

E

ven a simple mechanical watch that tells only the date and time can have over a hundred parts, including the case, dial and hands. Very complicated watches that include functions like a chronograph (stopwatch), a perpetual calendar (one that always shows the right date, no matter if the current month has 30 or 31 days, or even if it's February 29th in a leap year), or a repeater (which chimes the time on tiny gongs inside the watch) may have many, many more.

Watches that combine these complications, often called “grand complication” watches, may have close to a thousand parts, all of which have to be tested and re-tested. They can take nearly a year to assemble.

Most other watches take much less time to build. Exactly how much depends on the level of care that goes into finishing the movement parts, how complex the case construction is, whether or not any special techniques must be used to make the dial (for example, enamel and engraved dials both take considerable time and skill to make), and how carefully the watch is adjusted—that is, fine-tuned to keep time accurately.

Mechanical timepieces can be almost entirely machine fabricated and assembled, or they can be almost entirely made by hand, virtually from scratch. It all depends on the specific model.

A mass-produced mechanical watch is a marvel of industrial technology that makes it possible, for a reasonable price, to enjoy all the pleasures of mechanical watchmaking. A hand-assembled, hand-finished watch with a hand-finished movement, individually adjusted by an expert watchmaker, takes many dozens of hours of skilled work, which can only be done by highly trained experts with years of experience.

What is the difference between quartz and mechanical watches?

Is one better than the other?

A mechanical watch is powered by a coiled spring—just like a child's wind-up toy—and it uses a mechanical, rather than electronic, oscillator to mark time.

(Think of the principle of a pendulum clock, where the pendulum always swings, say, once per second. Of course, a pendulum wouldn't work in a portable timepiece; it uses something called a balance and

balance spring that perform the same function.) Mechanical watches are preferred by most serious watch lovers, and their history goes back much further— all the way back to the late Renaissance if you include pocket watches.

Quartz watches are generally more accurate and almost always less expensive. However, a wellmaintained mechanical watch can

keep time to within a few seconds a day, or even a week—more than good enough for most purposes.

Mechanical watches also offer a history and heritage far older than quartz watches. Though they're technical marvels, the massproduced, basically disposable nature of many quartz watches makes mechanical watchmaking something that continues to be held in high regard.

BY JACK FORSTER

A quartz watch is powered by a battery, and keeps time by passing a tiny current through a very small quartz crystal. This causes the crystal to vibrate, like a tuning fork, and a tiny integrated circuit counts the vibrations per second to mark time. The hands are moved by miniature electric motors. They are a fairly recent development; the first were sold to the public in 1969.

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SPOTLIGHT

10 HOT WATCHES Today’s finest watchmakers are pulling out all the stops when it comes to timepiece design.

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CARTIER Calibre de Cartier Diver, 42 mm 18K pink gold case, black dial partially snailed with XII in superluminova, black rubber strap, water resistant to 30 bars

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IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands, 44 mm steel case, black dial, black rubber strap, water resistant to 30 bars

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ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II, 44 mm in stainless steel with Ring Command rotatable bezel with blue ceramic disc and Oysterlock bracelet

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A. LANGE & SÖHNE Zeitwerk Striking Time, 44.2 mm 18K pink gold case, solid silver argenté dial, brown leather strap

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5

BAUME & MERCIER Clifton, 43 mm polished and satin-finished stainless steel case, sun satin-finished and snailed silver-colored dial, brown alligator strap, water resistant to 5 bars

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6

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time, 42 mm pink gold case, silvered dial, alligator leather strap, water resistant to 5 bars

BREITLING Super Avenger II, 48 mm steel case, black dial, steel bracelet, water resistant to 30 bars

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OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch, 44.25 mm black ceramic case, black dial, coated nylon fabric strap, water resistant to 5 bars

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph, 42 mm stainless steel case, ivorytoned dial, brown alligator strap, water resistant to 10 bars

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PANERAI Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante LeftHanded 8 Days Titanio, 47 mm brushed titanium case, brown dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers, brown leather strap

Q&A

STATE OF THE INDUSTRY

A conversation with Traditional Jewelers’ Sales Manager, Max Sotodeh.

Watches are said to be recession-proof. Would you agree?

I wouldn’t say recession-proof, but in general, fine timepieces have historically maintained their value through economic downturns. After all, they are timeless technical marvels that, just like fine art, are enjoyed from generation to generation. Ultimately, it is a particular brand or model’s rarity and complexity that determine its desirability and everlasting value.

Moreover, a fine watch on your wrist is a sign of success—a reflection of your

lifestyle, your taste, your interests, your appreciation of art, history of horology and innovation. All of these factors combined are what make fine timepieces great investments.

What am I paying for when I invest in a fine watch?

Purchasing a fine timepiece is acquiring a piece of watchmaking history. The art of haute horology is characterized by the extreme precision that goes into

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Q&A handcrafting each tiny part that ultimately makes up a watch movement (in most cases a watch movement contains over 100 of these hand-finished parts). A fine timepiece can take months and even years to produce, but when properly cared for, your investment will endure the passing of time and serve as a keepsake for many generations to come.

What’s required to become a watchmaker in your store?

The first requirement is an unyielding passion and appreciation for the art of watchmaking: the history, the precision and the extreme beauty.

Watchmakers must possess an extreme attention to detail and a steady hand. Our father-son team of watchmakers, Igor and Arthur Bodin, have nearly 50 years of combined experience and are recognized among the top independent watchmakers in the United States. Their longtime careers include ongoing training and certification processes with our esteemed brand partners. They have earned factoryauthorized certifications from some of the most prestigious brands in the industry, including (but not limited to): Rolex, Panerai, Cartier, Omega and Breitling.

you’ve sold recently?

I am the sales manager, and because of that, I am fortunate enough to be involved with every sale. One of the most beautiful timepieces that I recently put on a client’s wrist was called Zeitwerk, made by A.Lange & Sohne. This jaw-dropping watch, with no hour hand or minute hand, is truly unique and amazingly handsome. It retails for $70,000.

What are the key watch trends for 2014?

I believe classic watches will remain steady (as always). Larger sizes will dominate but manufacturers will not increase watch sizes in production.

Rose gold watches and complicated watches, like those with annual calendars and regulators, will be in higher demand. I also think we will see a continuation of the trend in alternative materials, including ceramic, titanium and DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon).

What’s the most common misconception about fine watches?

How often should a fine watch be serviced? What’s involved?

Fine watches are very complex works of art that require a great deal of patience, precision and expert manufacturing to produce. Many people are not aware of the extensive amount of time required to create a fine timepiece, and subsequently, the maintenance that is necessary for preserving the longevity of a watch. I like to think of it in terms of a luxury automobile that requires routine maintenance. A fine timepiece is no different: when properly cared for, it should run for a lifetime and beyond.

In general, it is recommended to do a major service on mechanical watches every five years. However, because of innovation, some brands (such as Omega) have added extra components to the movement, which has increased this interval to seven years.

During the service (termed an “overhaul”), the certified watchmaker will disassemble Watches tell a silent story about the wearer— the movement, which could entail hundreds they express a style, a personality and a sense of very small components, clean them, reof confidence. Particularly for men, who don’t lubricate them, and replace them if typically have as many accessorizing necessary. This process can take anywhere opportunities as women, watches serve as an MAX SOTODEH from a few weeks to several months. For extension of a man’s overall style, whether TRADITIONAL JEWELERS SALES MANAGER quartz (battery-operated) watches, it is classic, sporty, or eccentric. recommended to have service performed by an authorized service center every two years. Authorized service centers will not only ensure that the correct parts are used, but that your watch undergoes the appropriate waterproof sealing and testing.

I have a great respect for all authorized watch dealers because we are all committed to educating, presenting and serving our clients to the best of our abilities. However, I can proudly and with 100 percent confidence tell This is the most difficult question for me, and interestingly many of our you that we, at Traditional Jewelers, have the best selection and the most clients ask me the same question. All the fine watches that we carry are passionate team committed to educating and assisting you in your quest incredibly beautiful and each has its own style, story, complication and to find the best timepiece for your lifestyle. Relationships built on trust personality. So, you may laugh, but my final answer is ALL of them! and mutual respect are the foundation upon which we build our business, and each day I look forward to working with old and new friends.

“All the fine watches that we carry are incredibly beautiful and each has its own style, story, complication and personality.”

What does a person’s watch say about him or her?

Why should customers buy watches in your store rather than from the competition?

What’s your favorite watch and why?

What’s the most expensive/outrageous watch 49

PROFILE by Adam Gebhardt

GENEVA’S CROWN JEWEL To acquire a Patek Philippe is to become the custodian of an artistic and scientific tradition.

P

atek Philippe is Geneva’s oldest independent family-owned watch manufacturer, founded in 1839. Faithful to the most noble artisanal techniques, its watchmakers and craftsmen perpetuate the timehonored traditions that distinguish the fine art of watchmaking.

The company’s independence from corporate ownership enables the brand to go its own way and control its own destiny while pursuing a longterm vision. It also benefits from total creative freedom, developing and manufacturing its movements in house according to its own quality criteria, and producing only watches that reflect its quest for the exceptional.

The timepieces outlive passing fashions without ever losing their appeal or relevance. Patek Philippe has established its own understated, timeless style: a harmonious combination of personality and discretion, elegance and an aristocratic touch. The style has inspired models with simple, strong, refined lines. Now, as always, subtle modifications enable the watches to

evolve while retaining all their characteristic charm.

Representing tradition at its most dynamic, Patek Philippe constantly pushes the boundaries of watchmaking through its innovations. It has confirmed its pioneering role in the industry by filing more than 80 patents, including 20 of major importance to the history of horology.

Patek Philippe has always conceived its watches as exclusive creations. More than 200 models are in regular production, each in small series of between 10 and several hundred, and fitted with a vast array of in-house movements. From design to mechanism, they earn their special place in the hearts of enthusiasts the world over. The rigorous standards applied to every step of the development process and in the long months of crafting and finishing make each Patek Philippe a precious, unique creation coveted by the connoisseur.

A Patek Philippe commands a high price and will fully retain or even increase in value. Many of the models achieve cult status and regularly fetch Patek Philippe Twenty-4 record-setting sums at auction. Their stainless steel ladies watch with solid reputation amongst collectors— 36 diamonds, blue sunburst and the great sentimental value that a dial and diamond hour markers Patek Philippe usually acquires in the eyes of its owner—make each one a treasured asset.

To acquire a Patek Philippe is to become the custodian of an artistic and scientific tradition that has been handed down with care and will continue to inspire remarkable creations. It is your entry into the world where each generation is dedicated to perpetuating a unique heritage.

To acquire a Patek Philippe is also to welcome into your own family a possession designed to last for successive generations, signifying the start of your own tradition.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Annual Calendar watch featuring watch featuring date, day and date, day and month,month, moonmoon phase and phase and power reserve power reserve indicator, indicator $44,400

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SERVICE by Stuart Leuthner

WATCHES ARE NOT PERPETUAL MOTION MACHINES

S

trapped to your wrist, a fine wristwatch marks off the hours, minutes and seconds with each beat of its mechanical heart. Representing more than three centuries of technology, craftsmanship and art, it is a precision instrument designed to provide a lifetime of accurate and reliable service. But a watch is, after all, a machine, and like any machine it requires periodic maintenance.

Tucked away in a mechanical watch's case, depending on its functions, are 150 to 250 diminutive parts. Power is supplied by a tightly coiled

mainspring, wound manually or automatically by a weighted rotor activated by the movement of the wrist or arm. A series of gears (watchmakers refer to them as “the wheel train�) transmits the spring's power to a group of components called an escapement. The pallet lever controls the spring's power, locking and unlocking the escape wheel. A fork at the other end of the pallet lever engages the balance wheel. Controlled by a fine spiral balance (or hair) spring, the balance wheel swings back and forth at a consistent rate between 18,000 and 36,000 times per hour. These precise oscillations are

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SERVICE transmitted to the hands to measure the hours, minutes and seconds.

Worn on the wrist, this kinetic assemblage described as "one of the most complicated pieces of mechanical engineering ever produced by man” is exposed to the perils of the real world, including shock, moisture and dust. Lubricants reduce wear and ensure smooth performance, but they thicken over time and lose effectiveness. As parts wear from normal use, friction creates microscopic particles that act as an abrasive. Although watch cases are machined to extremely close tolerances, fluctuations in temperature can affect the metal and create imperceptible fissures that allow contaminants inside the case. In rare cases, a part will fail and have to be replaced.

a diver descends, the pressure increases by one atmosphere. At 66 feet underwater (20 meters) the pressure is three atmospheres, etc.

These ratings should not be taken literally. A watch rated at three ATM can be worn while washing dishes, but will not survive a 30-meter dive. A five ATM watch can be worn in the shower, or swimming in shallow water. A 10 ATM watch is suitable for recreational diving, and a watch rated at 15 ATM is designed to tolerate the demands of scuba diving.

"If water, especially salt water, gets inside any watch it will probably destroy the movement," Bodin explains. "A watch's water resistance should be tested every two years, but if the owner spends a great deal of time in the water it should be checked annually. A watch exposed to chlorine or salt water should be rinsed in fresh water, and if you see condensation under the crystal, bring the watch in for service immediately."

Once the watch passes the water-resistance test, the bracelet or strap is reattached to the watch and it is secured to a rotating apparatus for three days.

This simulates wearing the watch on the wrist and, if it is equipped with an automatic movement, tests the winding mechanism. After a final inspection, the watch is returned to its owner, ready to resume its timekeeping duties.

“Oh ye seekers after perpetual motion, how many vain chimeras have you pursued? Go and take your place with the alchemists.”

—Leonardo da Vinci

WHEN AND WHERE TO SERVICE A FINE WATCH There is no absolute rule dictating when a mechanical watch should be serviced, but there are several guidelines to consider. First, find out what the manufacturer suggests. After all, they produced the watch and will provide recommendations on the care and service requirements for their products. Read the owner's manual and familiarize yourself with your watch's operation, functions, and also its limitations. Second, consider how your watch is used. A sport watch worn by a weekend sailor will be subjected to a great deal more stress than a dress watch worn to the office or theatre.

Scheduled maintenance will always be more cost effective than waiting until a watch requires a major repair. Igor Bodin, Hyde Park's master watchmaker and technical director, advocates for mechanical automatic watches to be serviced by an authorized service center every four to five years. "It is important to remember," Bodin likes to say, "that your car is parked in a garage over night. A watch runs 24 hours a day, seven days a week."

Complete service starts with a trained customer service associate who begins by noting the watch's model, condition and any problems the customer might be experiencing. The associate then turns the timepiece over to the watchmaker who performs a thorough examination of the watch's bracelet and case. After determining what service or repairs are required, the watchmaker disassembles the movement down to the very last screw, and the parts are cleaned in a machine with a timed series of chemical baths. After the cleaned parts are inspected, the movement is reassembled, lubricated and regulated to the manufacturer's criteria.

While the movement is being serviced, the case, bezel and bracelet are cleaned ultrasonically and polished to original specifications. Once the movement and case are reunited, the watch is checked for waterresistance in a chamber that duplicates the pressure exerted on a watch worn underwater.

Screw-down crowns, screw-down case backs and rubber, nylon and Teflon gaskets and seals help keep the water out, but there is no such thing as a fully waterproof watch. Water-resistance, noted by a depth rating (in meters and ATMs) is usually printed on the watch's case and dial. This is the amount of pressure the watch can withstand before leaking. ATM stands for atmospheres.

At sea level, a watch is subjected to one atmosphere. For every 33 feet (10 meters)

QUARTZ MOVEMENTS A quartz watch has far fewer parts than a mechanical watch, but that does not mean it does not require service. Potential problems include normal aging of components, loose solder connections and damage from dead batteries. Most batteries will last two or three years before needing to be replaced, but battery life is unpredictable. Bodin advises changing the battery every two years to avoid a disaster caused by a leaking battery.

Since the case has to be opened to change the battery, a quality quartz watch's case should not be opened by the owner or trusted to a shopping mall battery swapper. A professional watchmaker uses tools that allow him to open and close the watch without damaging the case.

During the battery replacement, the watchmaker will also clean the battery contacts, examine the mechanism and test for water resistance.

Other considerations for owners of fine watches, to help to protect your investment: If a manual-wound watch is worn daily, it should be wound every day, preferably at the same time. Watch-winders that simulate the motions of a person's arm are available for owners of automatic watches. If you are going to dig up the garden, split wood or play tennis, a fine watch should be left on the dresser or in the locker. Watches do not like hot water and they should not be worn while taking a shower. Note that soap and shampoo can compromise the gaskets and seals.

Owning a fine watch is a joy. A fine watch reflects its owner's self-expression and respect for centuries of horology, but along with pride of ownership comes responsibility. Routine care and maintenance preserves a watch's appearance, performance and your investment.

Take proper care of your watch and it will survive the test of time.

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WATCHMAKING by Jack Forster

HOOKED ON CLASSICS

Heritage-themed watchmaking in the 21st century.

I

n 1969, the first quartz watch (the Seiko Astron, which cost as much as a car at the time) was introduced, and by the mid-1970s mechanical watches seemed to be on their way out. But today they’re back in a big way, and some of the most popular styles recall the most classic designs from the past.

Watchmaking has been around for nearly 500 years, and for the last century, wristwatches have dominated personal timekeeping. But they didn’t really take off until after the first World War, when their widespread use by officers as a more practical alternative to the pocket watch made them respectable for men to wear. (Before then, they were called “wristlet” watches and were worn almost exclusively by women.)

A fine mechanical wristwatch—a tiny, high-precision machine—was considered a masterpiece of miniaturization, and as the wristwatch evolved

technically, especially during the 1950s and ’60s, certain classic forms evolved too. One of the most important was the extra-thin dress watch. Extra-thin watches couldn’t be made by just anybody; they required high precision and care to assemble thanks to the unforgiving tolerances, so a thin, gold dress watch was considered a de rigeur accessory.

The development of better waterproofing techniques led to the evolution of sports watches that could be worn by divers, and specialist watches (particularly chronographs), which combined the functions of a watch and stopwatch, began to be made for pilots, motorsports enthusiasts, and were even worn into space by both American and Soviet astronauts.

Extra-thin watches seemed a dying breed, even during the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. As recently as 10 years ago, men’s taste ran strongly

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IMAGE COURTESY OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Jaeger-LeCoultre master engraver Dominique Vuez

WATCHMAKING in favor of large, aggressively styled watches, but in the last five years watch lovers have rediscovered the pleasures of the classic dress watch. The evolution of thin watches goes back a long way, to the 18th century, when some of the first thin pocket watches were made by Pierre de Beaumarchais (who also wrote the Figaro plays, one of which was turned into the opera The Barber of Seville, by Rossini). Making a true extra-thin watch that still keeps time well is a huge challenge. Everything from the mainspring to the case itself has to be built differently, in order to maintain the ability to keep precise time in a space that may be half the thickness, or less, of an ordinary dress watch.

For this reason, true extra-thin watches tend to be made by companies that have been in the business for a while—long enough to build up the necessary expertise. For real connoisseurs, they’re desirable not just for the technical skill it takes to make them, or their incredible elegance (they’re still the only really correct watch for formal events, James Bond’s Rolex-with-tux notwithstanding), but also for the heritage of the companies that make them.

One of the least-known but most interesting pieces of pilot’s watch history is from an even more unlikely source: Cartier. Cartier’s most famous watch is, of course, the Tank (first sold in 1918 and in production ever since, speaking of classic dress watches), but it’s not often realized that the Santos was originally designed as a pilot’s watch, for the great aviation pioneer Alberto SantosDumont. Santos-Dumont, one of the first to successfully build and fly a heavierthan-air craft, was a friend to Louis Cartier. When he complained that a pocket watch wasn’t exactly practical for flying, Louis Cartier made a wristwatch for him, which Santos-Dumont wore while flying as early Panerai Radiomir as 1906. Though the watch has been made in a huge Composite Black Seal 3 Days Automatic variety of styles, the basic design’s still the same. It’s fascinating to note that in addition to being one of the Cartier Santos, original and current most successful watch models of all time, the Santos was also the first pilot’s watch.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Diver’s watches are loved and worn by many who

What’s old is new again. Classic watch styles endure the test of time.

Think Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Piaget, and of course, Patek Philippe. intage-style chronographs are, for many, a reminder of some of the most important events in motorsports, with names like Daytona and Carrera representing both iconic competitions and the watches favored by drivers and enthusiasts. Although vintage-style dress chronographs are popular, the lion’s share of attention these days goes to sports chronographs, including models by companies like Rolex, Tudor and TAG Heuer which either revive favorite designs from the past, or which have actually never gone out of production (the Rolex Daytona is a case in point).

For their part, pilot’s watches have remained one of the most enduringly appealing of all watch types. In the explosion of interest in civil aviation postWWII, some of today’s most memorable designs were first created, including Breitling’s Navitimer and the Rolex GMT Master (first made for Pan Am aircrews). Ironically, one of the most popular aviator’s watches of all time—the Omega Speedmaster Professional—was first designed for motorsports enthusiasts (its tachymetric bezel is designed to calculate average speed over a measured mile). But it became immortalized in watchmaking history as the timepiece worn by all Apollo crews, and it’s still flight-qualified by NASA today.

never dive, though plenty of amateur and professional divers still use them, as a back-up to modern wrist-worn dive computers. They’re popular for both their rugged good looks and inherent durability. Not just any watch can be called a “diver’s watch”; there is actually an international standard which specifies, among other things, a 200-meter minimum water-resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetic resistance, as well as a certain minimum visibility in the dark, and a mandatory rotating timing bezel. Thanks to the rich history of the development of undersea exploration—and undersea warfare—in the 20th century, there are a wealth of choices, including the Rolex Submariner (in production continuously since it was introduced in 1954, and one of the most enduring designs of all time).

As with the Santos, some of the earliest diver’s watches may be a surprise.

Those who don’t know Panerai might dismiss their Radiomir and Luminor designs as mere exercises in style, but in fact they’re designs that originated in the 1950s (Luminor) and the 1930s (Radiomir), representing some of the first true diver’s watches ever made.

Whether you’re looking for a watch that’s rich in history, or just a greatlooking timepiece that recalls the post-World War II Golden Age of mechanical watchmaking, there’s never been a better time to be a watch lover.

V

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WHEELS by David A. Rose

Taking a cue from its parent company, Tudor enters the world of motor sports sponsorship.

NEED FOR SPEED

Tudor Grantour Chrono Fly-Back

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RACING IMAGE BY STEPHAN COOPER

A

nyone who knows anything about motor sports will know and Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series and the American Le Mans Series. The appreciate the contribution Rolex has made over the years. Rolex is two had been competing for fans, sponsors, teams and drivers since 1999, but the official timepiece at the Sebring International Raceway and the as a single series they have now created one of the most exciting sports car Mobil 1 Twelve Hours of Sebring, official timepiece at The 24 Hours of Le races in the world.

Mans, and title sponsor of the annual Rolex 24 at Daytona. And in 2013, the “For years Tudor has been inspired by motor sports,” says brand brand made history when it became the global partner and official timepiece manager Russell Kelly. “This new partnership allows us to elevate our of Formula 1, the pinnacle of motor sports. commitment to sports car racing. This is the perfect alignment between Rolex also made headlines last year for another reason: the partners dedicated to performance and precision.” announcement that it would re-launch its storied Tudor brand in the U.S., International sports car racing brings together some of the most and promote it as the title partner for the new Tudor United SportsCar sophisticated machinery in existence with the best drivers in the world.

Championship. Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex’s founder, Unlike other motor sports races, which run for a registered the name “The Tudor” in 1926 to honor specific number of miles or laps, sports car series are 2014 TUDOR the Tudor period in England. He established run for three, six, 12 and 24 hours. Each car must UNITED SPORTSCAR Montres Tudor SA in 1946 with the idea of offering utilize a minimum of two drivers for the shorter CHAMPIONSHIP the quality of Rolex timepieces at a lower price. races, and can use up to five drivers per car for 24UPCOMING RACE SCHEDULE Today, though Tudor is part of the Rolex Group, it is hour events. They race in all weather conditions and May 4 Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca operated separately and continues to uphold its the pace remains intense throughout the entire May 31 Detroit Belle Isle philosophy of affordable luxury. To celebrate its event. With the merger of the two series for 2014, June 7 Kansas Speedway colorful history, Tudor has introduced the Heritage there is no doubt that the Tudor United SportsCar June 29 Watkins Glen International Collection, featuring updated versions of iconic Championship will present race fans in North July 13 Canadian Tire Motorsports Park pieces like the Tudor Heritage Chrono and the Tudor America with the most exciting racing they’ve ever July 25 Indianapolis Motor Speedway Heritage Advisor. seen, while allowing watch lovers to become August 10 Road America The Tudor United SportsCar Championship was reacquainted with the luxury, quality and August 24 Virginia International Raceway formed by the merging of two rival U.S. events: the sophistication of the Tudor brand.

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destinations

J

ennifer Probert has been in love with fashion forever, and her lifelong dream has been to become a fashion designer in Paris.

“We try to give her as many experiences as we can to be exposed to the world of fashion,” says Greg Probert, Jennifer’s father. “She helps all the women in our family and friends with fashion advice and watches every fashion show on TV.” So, when Greg came across the New York Fashion Week Signature Ticket package from Inspirato, he knew it was a must for his daughter.

“This trip was all about Jennifer,” Probert says. “I have no fashion sense at all so I was just along for the ride!”

This kind of life-changing, dream-fulfilling activity has become a welcome addition to today’s travel industry. Termed “experiential travel,” the trend has gained increasing traction amongst travelers over the past few years. 2014 is expected to be a particularly big year for the concept, with travelers looking for vacation opportunities that allow them to deeply immerse themselves in an activity, culture, event, or even a remote location.

Inspirato’s Fashion Week package is a top-tier example of experiential travel, with a focus on carefully curated, tasteful, luxurious experiences. A part of the private club’s Signature Ticket program, access to New York Fashion Week is one of many once-in-a-lifetime possibilities that Inspirato is

Inspirato STYLE

Inspirato founder and CEO Brent Handler and his family were aboard the club’s first members-only cruise to the Mediterranean in 2013. Inspirato’s next private Eastern Mediterranean cruise will set sail in July 2014, taking members to only the best ports as part of the club’s custom itinerary.

Making dreams come true.

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working to make available to its members.

“Experiencing something new and inspiring has always been an essential part of travel,” explains Brent Handler, founder and CEO of Inspirato. “These additions to our Signature Collections help us connect with our members in a whole new way, providing them with truly remarkable opportunities they couldn’t find anywhere else.”

Meeting the desires of its members has always been a top priority for the luxury destination club. Inspirato has become known for its stunning Signature Residences, a collection of luxurious vacation homes around the world. The residences provide Inspirato guests with the space and

Greek ports not usually included in a single itinerary.

“By planning all-encompassing experiences from the ground up for our members, we’re able to ensure that every detail is accounted for,” Handler says. A similar Antarctica expedition is also planned for January 2016.

Lee Vickers, who heads up Inspirato’s Signature Ticket, emphasizes the importance of having diverse offerings available to members.

“We really want these experiences to feel as once-in-a-lifetime as possible. Of course, that means different things to different people,” Vickers says. “So, we have options that range from very wellness-centric, to backstage meet-and-greets at concerts, to VIP treatment at major sporting

Left: Jennifer Probert enjoys a private shopping experience with designer Joanna Mastroianni as part of Inspirato’s Signature Ticket experience.

Right: Greg Probert and his daughter Jennifer meet with designers Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman during the Marchesa runway show at New York Fashion Week.

convenience of a private vacation home, but with the added benefit of Inspirato’s Signature Service, including on-site concierges who manage everything from making restaurant reservations to booking babysitters to pre-stocking the home’s kitchen with members’ favorite foods.

“With our Signature Residences, we were already providing our members with a personalized, seamless experience,” Handler says of the transition to the new Signature offerings. “Of course, people still love ‘traditional’ vacations that involve pool time and relaxation. But we’ve found that our members often want something more — they want to return home having experienced something incredible, and unforgettable.” ignature Experiences are customized trips that Inspirato has produced from the ground up. An example from 2013 is Inspirato’s Wellness Retreat, which was hosted by yoga pro Mandy Ingber and nutrition guru Keri Glassman at the Esperenza Resort near Cabo San Lucas. Members participated in engaging, interactive classes with both, in addition to receiving personalized one-on-one training. The beautiful location didn’t hurt, either.

The trip was so successful that a 2014 edition in another desirable location is already in the works.

For members looking for something more culturally-minded, Inspirato has charted an entire Silversea luxury cruise ship for a week-long, membersonly journey through the Eastern Mediterranean, complete with Inspiratodesigned deck parties and excursions. The summer 2014 trip will take members from Istanbul to Athens, including stops in celebrated Turkish and

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events.”

Signature Ticket is a key factor in making this happen, and an important complement to Inspirato’s Signature Experiences. While Experiences are completely created and managed by the Inspirato team, Ticket provides V.I.P access and immersive experiences to existing, high-profile events.

Inspirato Ticket has already taken Inspirato members to the Golden Globes, the Super Bowl, and The Masters. An exclusive Kentucky Derby experience will be held in May. “Here’s the way we’re thinking about it: if you’re going to the Kentucky Derby once in your life, we want you to have the most amazing time possible,” Vickers said. “We’re giving members a curated weekend with a real insider’s perspective.”

This attention to detail has always been essential to Inspirato’s offerings.

“It has always been important for us to give our members the best of the best,” Handler says. “These offerings are very customized to our members, and to what really speaks to them.”

Take Jennifer Probert’s experience. In addition to getting up close and personal to one of the biggest fashion events in the world, she was able to live out her love of fashion in a brand new way.

“Our members see these experiences as some of the most important investments that they can make,” Handler says. “It’s not just about the exclusivity. It’s about sharing something incredible with your friends and family. It’s trips like these that you’ll remember forever.”

For more information, please visit inspirato.com or call 720.465.3276.

PERFECTGEMS

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

LÉGENDAIRE NICE

From its venerable position on the Promenade des Anglais, the very grand Hotel Negresco in Nice, France has epitomized Côte d’Azur style for over 100 years. Collected behind the lofty facade is 400 years of French culture and art including works from the reign of Louis XIII and avantgarde sculptures (Picasso and Dali often stayed here). After viewing the hotel’s treasures, guests can watch the chic passing Riviera scene while sipping rosé in the outdoor lounge. The sommelier will take interested oenophiles off to one of the nearby vineyards for a tour and tastings. And dinner at Le Chantecler, the two Michelin-starred restaurant with a wine cellar containing 15,000 bottles, is a full evening’s experience. Of course, for those who come to Nice for the sea, the hotel has its own private beach.

MICHAEL RUDDIN

DISCOVERING NEW WINES FOR SUMMER

When dining at Vetro Restaurant & Lounge in Howard Beach, New York, guests can enter through the front door or dock their yachts at the marina. The menu includes classic Italian food and over 400 wines. According to Vetro’s sommelier, PJ Connolly, “Summer wines should be refreshing and you need to find a crisp, clean acidity.”

The 2012 DAOU Vineyards Grenache Blanc Paso Robles from California is a grenache blanc with citrus and melon aromas and bright acidity. Nice for a barbeque. The 2012 Tenuta Guado al Tasso “Scalabrone” Rosato di Bolgheri, an Italian rosé, is blended from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Fresh with a crisp finish, serve with fruit and light salads. The 2010 Pago De Los Capellanes Crianza, Ribera del Duero from Spain is 100 percent tempranillo and goes well with grilled meats and salsa verde. And from France comes the 2010 Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru “Clos Des Myglands.” This pinot noir from the Côte Chalonnaise in Burgundy is a versatile wine: excellent with game meats or cheese, or by itself on a warm sunny day.

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A HORSE OF COURSE

Just 40 miles from Washington D.C. in Middleburg, Va., the Salamander Resort & Spa is set on 340 acres in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. It features luxurious suites, spa, cooking studio and wine bar, but it’s the great outdoors that beckons most visitors. In the Culinary Garden the chef teaches secrets of organic farming, and guests can pick herbs and produce for a cooking class or dine under the garden trellis. There are hiking and biking paths, tennis courts and croquet. Naturally, since the resort is surrounded by Virginia’s famed riding country, horses are a mane attraction (the resort has nine horses and two ponies, or you can bring your own). The Equestrian Program at Salamander includes a practice ring, instructional classes, and riding trails through woods and fields.

WRAPPING UP THE SEASON

ROBERT GODWIN

Before beginning her career as a couturiere, Jackie Rogers was a model for Coco Chanel and learned much of her craft, style and technique from the legendary designer. She’s created clothes for some of the most famous women in the world, including Julianne Moore, Condaleeza Rice, Roberta Flack, Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Salma Hayek and Courtney Love. For this spring and summer Rogers suggests a wrap-tie blouse, which she makes to order in 100 different colors (she particularly likes it in shocking pink). “A tie blouse can go over anything and make everything look new and fresh again,” she explains. (And think of the jewelry options!)

STRAVINSKY IN SANTA FE

Every summer The Santa Fe Opera in New Mexico presents repertory and contemporary performances on a high mesa overlooking two mountain ranges, a setting unmatched anywhere in the world. This summer, the program includes Carmen, Fidelio, the American premiere of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, and a special salute to one of the early supporters of this unique company. In 1957 Igor Stravinsky was invited for the first season. Intrigued by the innovative organization, the celebrated composer returned several times to direct and conduct his own operas. In 2014, Santa Fe pays tribute to Stravinsky with a performance of Le Rossignol, marking the 100th anniversary of the opera’s premiere in Paris. The nightingale doesn’t only sing in Berkeley Square.

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style

MIX In THE Freshen up your jewelry favorites.

BETH BERNSTEIN

Have a tennis bracelet that’s been sitting in the recesses of your jewelry box? Think your round, brilliant-cut, prong-set stud earrings look too traditional? Love your grandmother’s 1920s Art Deco diamond and platinum brooch but don’t know how to wear it alongside your contemporary jewelry? Spring 2014 is all about the art of the mix.

There is a trend towards updating classics you already own (or want to own) by combining them with more fashionable styles, or adding a contemporary element to those pieces in your jewelry box that you thought were outdated. It’s all about personalizing your jewelry look, which means mixing old with new, antique heirloom with modern, and even throwing in some edgy pieces.

Here are three tips to help you get the most mileage— and style—from your jewelry box:

Inherit This Style

If you’re one of those lucky women who have inherited an elegant Art Deco brooch but can’t figure out how to incorporate it into your everyday jewelry wardrobe, here are a few intriguing ideas. You can fasten it onto an elongated diamond station necklace, or

Diamonds Will Always Be a Girl’s Best Friend

wear the brooch as a pendant on a satin cord (layered with a station necklace if you wish). Or pin the brooch to the side

If you own a (flexible diamond line-style) tennis bracelet from the late-’80s or early-’90s

of a dress, and complete the look with

that was once chic (worn with Armani pantsuits to power lunches or out to coffee with the

linear earrings that also recall an Art

other moms), it’s time to try mixing it up. Add status pieces like large links or thin cuffs

Deco influence—a pair with swing and

and bangles. These diamond line bracelets are injected with new life when worn with

movement. But don’t stop there: get

another classic, like the Cartier Love bracelet, on one side, and a thin bangle with a

creative with a double-finger ring or one

gemstone and diamond pavé surround on the other. For an edgier look, add a snake cuff

of those fashionable bracelet/ring

that slithers around your wrist. For the more sentimental, layer with a charm bracelet; if

creations that extends from your finger

you haven’t been filling one up for years, it’s never too late to start. Your wrist is the

to your wrist.

Past Present

Love the sentimental designs of Victorian-era rings, but think you need to save them for a special occasion? Not so. Try stacking a Victorian cluster ring with mine-cut diamonds, or a new polished, rough-cut gray diamond ring from Todd Reed, and the look becomes current and playful. Or go for a garden theme, with a bold piece like Stephen Webster’s pavé diamond butterfly ring, worn with an antique snake ring on the same hand. Luckily, you have 10 fingers and limitless possibilities.

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FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF PENNY PREVILLE, IVANKA TRUMP, STEPHEN WEBSTER

perfect place to mix metals—white, pink and yellow gold—and gemstones with diamonds.

1954

60 YEARS OF CONTINUOUS INSPIRATION IN THE PURSUIT OF TECHNICAL PERFECTION

Heritage Black Bay is the direct descendant of Tudor’s technical success in Greenland on the wrists of Royal Navy sailors. 60 years later, the Black Bay is ready to stand as its own legend.

TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY® Self-winding mechanical movement, waterproof to 200 m, 41 mm steel case.

Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more.

®

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2014