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WEST HARTFORD 46 LASALLE ROAD, (860) 521-3015 GLASTONBURY SOMERSET SQUARE, (860) 659-8510 GREENWICH 169 GREENWICH AVE., (203) 629-0900 WESTPORT 136 MAIN STREET, (203) 227-1300 BOSTON 416 BOYLSTON STREET, (617) 266-4747 T H E S H O P S AT M O H E G A N S U N UNCASVILLE, (860) 862-9900 W E L L E S L E Y, M A 60 CENTRAL STREET, (781) 235-9119 SOUTH WINDSOR, EVERGREEN WALK, (860) 644-0789 1- 8 0 0 - L B G R E E N ( 1- 8 0 0 - 524 - 7336 ) LBGREEN.COM CHAIRMAN ROBERT E. GREEN P R E S I D E N T/ C E O JOHN A. GREEN VICE CHAIRMAN MARC A. GREEN CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER DAVID BONNEY ADVERTISING DIRECTOR MICHAIL K. SHAW

CONTENTS FEATURES 2 Welcome Letter 4 What’s Happening

PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

ROBERTO COIN BANGLES FROM THE POIS MOI COLLECTION IN 18K ROSE, WHITE AND YELLOW GOLD

C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2014.

Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

12 Pantone Fashion Color Report 14 LBG Jewelry 18 LBG Special Events

WATCHES A C C E N T M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 4

19 Beantown from LBG 20 LBG Giftware 22 Weddings 26 CBIA Award 28 John Green: Chairman of the Board of Governors 30 Chatter: Ask the Designers 32 Red Carpet

GETTY 1 PASIEKA

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P

34 Exhibit: Jewelry on Display 38 Style: In the Mix

WATCH SECTION

40 Trends: Simply Modern

50 LBG At Your Service

62 Technology: Home Safe Home

52 Watch Advisor

64 Perfect Gems

54 Spotlight: Hot Watches

68 Fashion: Here Comes the Sun

56 Profile: Patek Philippe

70 Food: Brooklyn’s Fine Fare

58 Watchmaking: Hooked on Classics

72 Essay: Getting the Hint 1

EVERY BOX HAS A STORY It's the unforgettable occasion, the smile on her face or the moment you knew it was forever.

We get to share your special memories and stories that last for generations.

Since 1898, the Green family has been on one singular mission: a family of dedicated professionals committed to individuals, companies and families celebrating exceptional moments and milestones.

Everyone has a story to tell and every day new boxes are opened, stories are created and memories are made.

Cheers, The Green family

WHAT’S HAPPENING at

LBG

2

WHAT’S HAPPENING at

LBG

T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .

WHAT’S HAPPENING at

LBG

Every Action Hero Needs A Vehicle.

The all-new, dynamically equipped Lexus GX 460.

At last, you can travel to the ends of the Earth without losing sight of your priorities. The Lexus GX facilitates this, with style and confidence. Two qualities that seamlessly coexist in this luxury utility vehicle.

With an available DVD Rear-Seat Entertainment System and third-row seating to accommodate eight adults, luxury in the GX knows no bounds. Yet the smooth, unrelenting 270-hp VVT-i V8 engine and full-time 4WD render it a most capable breed. Contact Hoffman Lexus to find out more.

750 CONNECTICUT BOULEVARD EAST HARTFORD, CT 860.525.3987 www.hoffmanlexus.com

Lexus reminds you to wear seatbelts, secure children in rear seat, obey all traffic laws and drive responsibly. Š2006 Lexus.

L IVE L IFE B EAUTIFULLY

PANTONE 2014 SPRING FASHION COLOR REPORT

THE PANTONE COLOR FASHION REPORT is the foremost international authority on colors and trends for the upcoming fashion season. It was created nearly 50 years ago with the purpose of simplifying decision-making and buying processes for fashion designers, industry leaders and enthusiasts. The report showcases the latest fashion trends and predictions.

RADIANT ORCHID

PLACID BLUE

COLOR OF THE Y E A R CAYENNE

HEMLOCK

FREESIA

VIOLET TULIP

PALOMA

DAZZLING BLUE

SAND

CELOSIA ORANGE

RADIANT ORCHID Belle Etoile. PLACID BLUE David Yurman.

CAYENNE Evocateur. HEMLOCK Ippolita. SAND S&R Jewelry.

FREESIA Angelique de Paris. VIOLET TULIP Amethyst bracelet.

PALOMA John Hardy. DAZZLING BLUE Lapis and white topaz ring. CELOSIA ORANGE Ippolita.

IT’S AMAZING what a little charm can do

LOVE

Double-link charm bracelet $58, Bangle charm bracelet $43 Charms: Birthday cake $47.50, Confirmation $29.50, Cupcake $32.50, Labrador $25, Baby shoes $24.50, Graduation cap $34.50, Engravable heart disc $16, Passport $32.50 All in sterling silver. Charms also available in 14K gold.

SPRING FEVER FROM LUX BOND & GREEN

LITTLE SEASONS COLLECTION

As each month comes and goes, so do the special characteristics that make each season one to be treasured. The smell of fresh-cut grass amongst the blossoming, vibrant flowers of spring remind you of the warm months ahead. With the Little Seasons collection, Alex Woo has designed a way for you to embody the essence of your favorite season 12 months of the year. Frog $158, Hummingbird $828, Butterfly $158, Dragonfly $658, Kite $168.

FLOWER POWER

A husband-and-wife designer team from Turkey founded Kelim, a boutique specializing in handmade Turkish goods, in Zurich, Switzerland. The inspiration for Kelim comes from the beautiful patterns in the traditional Turkish carpets and the natural beauty of their adopted country, Switzerland. The collections include organic and geometric designs that are both feminine and timeless. Most of the line is matte 925 sterling silver with a fine silver finish.

Bracelet $160.

Earrings $95.

ADORNMENTS OF GOLD

Even the sun god Ra–bringer of light–would be impressed with these luminous gold earrings. Our sophisticated golden drops $125, twisted gold and silver hoops $120, along with the whimsy of flip flops $95 will bring a smile of enchantment to someone special.

LUCKY LADYBUG

Having a ladybug land on you can be a magical moment. That’s why so many cultures over the centuries have cherished ladybugs, believing them to bring good luck.

So if one ladybug can bring you that much luck, imagine what 14 ladybugs will bring! Bracelet $85.

EVERY BOX

HAS A STORY

ARTRAGEOUS FROM LUX BOND & GREEN

REFINED ECLECTICISM

Handcrafted in Connecticut studios, Évocateur is a collection of one-of-a-kind jewelry and accessories. It references the past with exquisite images and hand-set vintage treasures, while celebrating the present in 22K gold leaf brilliance. It’s a collection for women whose style defies definition and who know that the very best stories start with a few unforgettable details. Teardrop earrings $150. Westport cuff $290. B&W cuff $290.

INTRODUCING - DELICATI

“The inspiration behind the creation of my jewels is rooted in my Venetian origins and the natural settings surrounding my territory. The Marco Bicego brand combines old-world tradition with contemporary design and conveys the typical values and details of made in Italy. The distinct uniqueness of my timeless jewels can be described through artisanal craftsmanship and imperfect shapes, always made in 18K gold.” – Marco Bicego Necklaces (top to bottom) $990, $900 and $950.

MAGNETIC MOMENT

This signature magnetic clasp enables beautiful necklaces to be worn alone or embellished with a variety of centerpieces that virtually snap into place. This concept of versatility and ever-changing beauty transforms a design to create a bold statement, be subtly elegant or remain classically simple. Both with vermeil.

Mother-of-pearl flower center $725.

Leather necklace $425.

UNDER THE HE SEA

A designer gner has brilliance e when he can look at natural atural Abalone and let hiss imagination run wild with diamonds. From Jaipu Jaipur, India, this collection offers ffers opulence, op l sophistication and the finest technical achievements of old-world craftsmanship, with a contemporary sense of style. Handcrafted and one of a kind, give the room a case of envy! Earrings $13,500.

Pendant $16,250.

For more of the latest jewelry trends, visit LBGreen.com

MODERN CLASSIC FROM LUX BOND & GREEN

PEARLS WITH ATTITUDE

TIMELESS CHIC

A return to glamour on the red carpets and in film continues to be compelling for pearls, concurs Fran Mastoloni of Mastoloni Pearls. “Pearls’ appeal is strong in their ability to layer with other designs. They’re perfect to mix with other jewelry like chains, beads and tassels.” Using pearls in new and hip ways with fashion elements such as black diamonds (shown) brings a refreshing and revitalized look to pearls.

Tassel $5,750.

Necklace $6,325.

Diamonds, sapphires and emeralds…

Emerald and diamond cluster necklace $2,400. Emerald and diamond drop earrings $1,350. Bands with diamonds and sapphires (top to bottom) $3,350, $8,635, $510, $5,900, $2,145, $6,300.

ARM CANDY

Our 18K yellow and rose gold stretch bracelets accented with diamonds look great alone, stacked a mile high or mixed with your other favorites. $2,650 each.

EVERY BOX

HAS A STORY

DEEP BLUE SEA

The vivid blue and green play of colors in this striking opal ring accented with a halo of diamonds reflects the natural beauty of the deep blue sea. $3,950.

MR. ED FROM LUX BOND & GREEN

YEAR OF THE HORSE

If you are witty and cheerful, friendly and vivacious... well, then you must be a horse of course! Those born in the Year of the Horse will always be leading the race with distinguished and independent personalities.

Horses represent great friendship and companionship, which makes the Little Horse an excellent personal companion to keep with you always. As a symbol of beauty and grace, together you and these jewels will be exactly that. Evocateur cuff $310. Alex Woo Little Horse necklace $1,298. Hand-chased horse cuff links in 18K gold $3,650. Sterling silver buckle bracelet $750.

STACK ‘EM HIGH

OFF THE CUFF

It was during the reign of Louis XIV that shirt sleeves started to be fastened with boutons de manchette, or “sleeve buttons.”

By 1715, simple, paste-glass buttons had given way to pairs of two, decoratively painted or jeweled studs, typically diamonds, connected by ornate gold links. Novelties, classics and custom design links from $50.

Men will have much to choose from including titanium, damascus steel, carbon fiber, mokume gane, stainless steel, ceramic, cobalt chrome, black zirconium, meteorite, gold and platinum wedding band collections. Or create your own band. From $395.

For more of the latest jewelry trends, visit LBGreen.com

LBG specialEVENTS ROBERTO COIN /,1 Ê- "7ÊUÊWest Hartford Saturday, May 3rd

and the

WALLY TROPHIES BOSTON Saturday, May 10th WEST HARTFORD Saturday, June 7th

TEMPLE ST. CLAIR /,1 Ê- "7ÊUÊWest Hartford Saturday, May 10th

For more details visit our events page at LBGreen.com ÊÊUÊÊÊ 6 ,9Ê "8ÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊ -Ê Ê-/",9Ò

BEANTOWN FROM LUX BOND & GREEN

FOR THE DUCKS Pewter frame $70.

WINNING TEAMS

Little Collegiate Harvard pendant in sterling silver $168. Little MLB Boston Red Sox pendant in 14K yellow gold $848, in sterling silver $178.

Mini Addition Sports Baseball in sterling silver $48 by Alex Woo.

DRINKS ON ME

Boston tray $245 and set of six coasters $48 by Annie Modica.

SWAN BOAT

New snow globe designed exclusively by/for LBG reďŹ&#x201A;ecting the Boston swan boats $55.

RED SOX

Brass cuff links $30 a pair.

cial Jewel ffi

er

Charm in sterling silver $55.

O

ENTERING BOSTON

For more Boston merchandise, visit LBGreen.com

PLAY TIME FROM LUX BOND & GREEN

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ON HOME DESTINATIcan vas. Hand painted and

de with high-quality Favorite place pillows ma rt 16” x 24” $85.

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by Andrew Pearce e-piece thre xed Bo °ÊU xä £x»Êf i` Õ ÊV iÀÀÞÊÇ»ÊÝÊ lors $95. co n the new fashio cheese set shown in colors $38. ed ort ass in ge knife” available clear ÊU Saucisson “sausa ale glass in aqua or vÌÊL>}Êf£{°ÊU Miner tweave ske ba i U ÕÀ >«Ê,ÝÊÜ iÊ} min °ÊU Chillewhich λ`ÊÝÊ{°x» Êf££Êi>V ” $15 each. .25 19 ”x 14 ats oval placem uoise and confetti.

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Shop at LBGreen.com

WEDDINGS

LBG STAFF AND CUSTOMERS - 20 YEARS AND COUNTING The ’60s

Celebrating 50 Years!

The ’70s

Gail & Art Gold June 7, 1964

Dick & Pat Dimock April 24, 1965

Linda & Kevin Marton October 24, 1970

Sally & Dave Campbell May 6, 1972

Roger & Laurie Troie October 2, 1976

Beth & Dick Ledbetter August 19, 1978

Mr. & Mrs. Timothy Jaeqer October 1, 1978

John & Norma Jean Green October 21, 1979

The ’80s

Joanne & Jim Gunn May 9, 1981

Joanne & Phil Tulisano September 12, 1982

Cathy & Dave Berey October 4, 1985

Mary Ann & Chris Stokes June 18, 1988

Sheila & Still Fowler October 22, 1988

Steve & Kathy Geryk November 26, 1988

The ’90s

Beth & John Roosa September 5, 1993

Tammy & Stephen Waddock October 30, 1993

WEDDINGS TO NEW BEGINNINGS: 2012 - 2013

Alison Levine & Owen Minde August 18, 2013

Hayley & Zachary Lipsky November 10, 2012 Kelly & Christopher Atwell June 29, 2013

Elizabeth Hopkinson & Erik Kapchus December 29, 2013

Katherine Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Leary & Timothy Frost September 28, 2013 Lorreta & Keane Tsu December 14, 2013

It’s dining drizzled with

ooh-la-la.

After you satisfy your taste buds at one of our fine restaurants, indulge your good taste at our unique collection of shops.

It’s a delicious experience you won’t want to miss.

Call 1.888.226.7711 or visit mohegansun.com.

Shops: Bare Minerals • bluwire • Brewster’s Trading Post • Brighton Collectibles • Brookstone • Caché Cascade Electronics • Chico’s • Citizen Watch • Clay Pipe • Coach • Dylan’s Candy Bar • The Essentials Everything Under The Sun • Galina’s • Godiva Chocolatier • Landau • Lush • Lux Bond & Green Margaritaville’s Smuggler’s Hold • The Old Farmer’s Almanac General Store • Once Upon A Time Toys Oriental Fine Arts & Crafts • Puma • Sephora • Spin Street • Sunglasses USA • Swarovski • Tiffany & Co. Tommy Bahama • Trading Cove • Trailblazer • Yankee Candle Restaurants: Ballo Italian Restaurant Ben & Jerry’s • Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain • Bobby’s Burger Palace • Bow & Arrow Sports Bar • Chief’s Deli Dunkin’ Donuts • Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana • Geno’s Bagels, Sweets & Subs • Geno’s Fast Break Geno’s Pub • Hash House A Go Go • Imus Ranch Coffee • Jasper White’s Summer Shack Jasper White’s Summer Shack Express • Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville • Johnny Rockets • Krispy Kreme Doughnuts The Lansdowne Irish Pub & Music House • Michael Jordan’s 23.sportcafe • Michael Jordan’s Steak House The Original SoupMan • Seasons Buffet • SolToro Tequila Grill • Starbucks Coffee • Sunrise Square Food Court Todd English’s Tuscany • Virgil’s Real Barbecue • Wok-On by Geno’s Fast Break Conveniently located in Mystic Country.

CELEBRATING Connecticut Family Businesses On November 12, 2013, the Connecticut Business and Industry

upon to do appraisals of antique silver and other giftware items. We

Association (CBIA) held an inaugural event, titled Celebrate

are thrilled that Bruce celebrated his 40-year anniversary with LBG in

Connecticut’s Family Businesses, at the Aqua Turf in Southington, Conn.,

November 2013, and we appreciate the outstanding relationships he

to recognize the achievements of family businesses in the state. Lux

has built with his customers throughout his career.

Bond & Green was invited to the event and given the opportunity, along

Gail Gold began her career with Lux Bond & Green in July 1981,

with the other attendees, to recognize

in the office, handling payments

the people within our organization

and our switchboard, which she

who deserve to be acknowledged and

continues to do to this day. Gail

celebrated for their work.

is our full-time receptionist and is

Unlike traditional award programs,

the “voice of Lux Bond & Green”

this event was not a competition but a

who fields all of the telephone

celebration of family businesses, and

calls that come into our main line

especially of the team members who

in West Hartford. She is incredibly

make them great. Since the success of

diligent in handling a multitude

Lux Bond & Green is a direct result of

of responsibilities, whether it is

our people, we decided to recognize

understanding a customer’s needs,

the three individuals who have each

handling transfers, checking in new

been part of the LBG family business

merchandise, or dealing with petty

for over 30 years: Gail Gold, Bruce

cash while always answering the

Skauen and Rhonda DiGiacomo. These

phone with a smile. Having just

three

diverse

celebrated 32 years of service with

areas of our company, but each one

LBG, Gail is a walking encyclopedia

exhibits the loyalty, dedication and

of knowledge in the West Hartford

knowledge that have made Lux Bond &

store and has played an essential

Green a shopping destination in all of

role in our successful management of

the markets we serve. In this day and

our inventory. In addition, Gail was

age, finding employees who spend 30

named one of Hartford Magazine’s

associates

represent

years at one company is a rarity, so we are both pleased and proud that Bruce, Gail and Rhonda have chosen to spend the bulk of their careers with us.

“Best Dressed” for her fabulous sense of style!

Finally, Rhonda DiGiacomo just celebrated her 30th anniversary with LBG in September 2013. She is currently a jewelry buyer in our

In addition to the recognition at the event, we presented our

corporate jewelry buying office, where she manages brands such as

honorees with a framed certificate recognizing their years of service, as

John Hardy, Penny Preville and Mikimoto pearls while also handling a

well as an LBG gift certificate for merchandise with a retail value of up

large volume of special orders for customers. Rhonda began her career

to $1,500 to commemorate this milestone. Below are the biographies

in 1983 in the Hartford store working in both sales and buying. Thanks

which were included in the CBIA event program; please join us in

to her tremendous work ethic and knowledge of the jewelry business,

congratulating Bruce, Gail and Rhonda on their long service with the

Rhonda was named store manager of the Hartford store, where she

company.

worked until 2007, at which time she moved to the Jewelry Buying

Bruce Skauen is currently a full-time sales professional in our

Office as full-time jewelry buyer. Having worked in both the stores and

Glastonbury store. He began his career with LBG in 1973 in Hartford,

corporate environment, Rhonda performs her duties with a clear sense

at our Pratt Street location, and quickly established himself as a true

of what is important for our customers and the company.

sales professional. Bruce has in-depth product knowledge in all areas

We were honored to celebrate Bruce, Gail and Rhonda, and to

but is undoubtedly one of our resident experts when it comes to giftware.

thank them for being an integral part of our family’s business during

He handles corporate sales for a number of clients and is often called

their collective 102 years of service to Lux Bond & Green!

CHAIRMAN of the Board of Governors John Green, of Lux Bond & Green, appears to have gemstones in

John has been a member of the GIA board since his election in

his DNA. He is a fourth-generation jeweler/gemologist and a certified

2008. There are currently 15 board members from all over the world,

gemologist appraiser, and now embraces yet another prestigious title:

including Hong Kong, Israel and Dubai. He is one of only three retailers

he was recently named the chairman of the Board of Governors of the

on the board; the rest is comprised of other experts in the jewelry industry as well as experts in the fields of

Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

compliance, law, finance, education and

The GIA is a jewelry industry non-profit international over

organization

employing

passionate

employees

2,000

scientific research.

“I was always intrigued by jewelry and

operating in 14 countries. It is renowned

gemstones,” John explains. “At seven

as the leading source for education,

years old, I started out as a gopher and

research and laboratory services for

gift wrapper in the family’s store. If I

gems. Established in 1931, the GIA is considered the world's foremost authority

wasn’t in school, I was helping out here.

on diamonds, colored stones and pearls.

“Our company and our family have

“It’s the number one resource in the

been involved in the jewelry industry for

world for grading a gemstone,” John

more than a century. We are passionate

explains. “As an example, almost every

about our customers and the health of

important gem auctioned at Christie's or

our industry, and are lucky that we have

Sotheby’s is accompanied by an official GIA grading, identification, origin or

been recognized for our ability to elevate

analytical report.”

the professionalism of our entire industry.

Headquartered in Carlsbad, CA, the

We believe we are helping the global

GIA has offices throughout the world, including

New

York,

Johannesburg,

Bangkok and Hong Kong.

“Not many jewelers are gemologists, although many of the most respected ones are,” he says. “Like in any profession, the more knowledge you have, the better you can assist clients.

The GIA offers Graduate Gemologist degrees, as well as individual courses of

study

about

where

diamonds

students or

can

colored

learn stones,

jewelry design, or manufacturing. After

economy, one community at a time,” he

“Our company and our family have been leaders in the jewelry industry.

We are passionate about it and are lucky enough that the industry has recognized us for what we do."

graduating from Boston College in 1978, John traveled to California to study gemology and jewelry design.

Even today, as a certified gemologist since 1981, he and the other certified gemologists at LBG are required to take annual exams to keep

says, referring to LBG's charitable work as well as the healthy percentage of profits from the diamond mining industry given right back to the people of Africa.

“A lot of good happens with profits made from diamonds, whether here in our own community or around the world.” Just one example: the country of Botswana, now the largest diamond-producing country in the world, has an amazing beneficiation program which educates every citizen all

the way through college without any cost to the student.

“The old slogan of our great-grandfather was ‘M.A. Green: Famous for Diamonds’. We continue to keep that tradition!”

up with technology and other changes in the industry. There are always new discoveries being made, and always those who disguise gems

By Lisa Lelos, adapted from the holiday issue of West Hartford

with new gemstone treatments.

magazine. Photography by Jane and Michael Shauck, Iris Photography

chatter

Ask the

DESIGNERS We asked some of our favorite designers: what’s next on your bucket list?

Listen in and get to know the artists behind your most-loved jewelry.

IVANKA TRUMP

going to debut an exclusive limited-edition collection inspired by the horse. To me, the horse symbolizes par excellence of freedom and elegance. Actually, this is related with my second wish, to keep surprising myself and my collectors by keeping them young and glamorous.”

IPPOLITA

My next destination is Luang Prabang in Laos, one of the most mystical, magical and inspiring old villages in Asia. It will be the inspiration for my next collection.”

GUY BEDARIDA OF JOHN HARDY

ROBERTO COIN

I have been compiling pieces of my writing, photographs and experiences for some time now. 2014 is the year it’s all going to come together inside one cover. I have a publisher so the rest is down to me. If anyone who knows me can remember anything that involves me between 1989 and 2000, please send in your stories. No junk mail or time wasters please.”

STEPHEN WEBSTER

30

STEPHEN WEBSTER IMAGE COURTESY OF RANKIN. GUY BEDARIDA IMAGE COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY.

I love to travel, and one of my all-time favorite trips is to Chile.

I’ve been several times, but next time I go I want to try glacier skiing in Portillo.”

Read Tolstoy in Russian and Proust in French. Roll around in caviar with Javier Bardem. Make my own scented candle with Cire Trudon. Walk the Great For sure on my bucket list Wall of China. Travel there is the bright future for my brand. I am a creator around the world with and a dreamer, and I wish my future grandchildren. to always keep being able to Learn to paint from foresee my clientele’s taste and mood. This year we are Eric Fischl.”

P OIS MOI COLLECTION

SAMIRA WILEY at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week

MIKE COPOLA/GETTY IMAGES FOR MERCEDES-BENZ

CARLA GUGINO at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards

COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN

red carpet

REGINA HALL at the Hollywood premiere of The Best Man Holiday 32

COURTESY OF SAZINGG AND KUUMBA

JULIETTE BINOCHE at the Cartier: Le Style et l’Histoire exhibition in Paris

RINDOFF PETROFF-CASTEL

RED HOT!

BEN PRUCHNIE FOR PARAMOUNT PICTURES INTL

KATE WINSLET at the BFI London Film Festival Labor Day screening

COURTESY OF CHIMENTO

EMMA ROBERTS at the 2014 Vanity Fair Oscar Party

In this bold hue, there’s no chance of blending in.

EMMY ROSSUM at the BTJA 3rd Annual Critics’ Choice Awards 33

COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN

KELLY OSBOURNE at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards

COURTESY OF AMRAPALI

JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

exhibits

Jewelry

ON DISPLAY

Many leading arts institutions now regularly highlight fine and contemporary jewelry from the 19th and 20th centuries—and visitors have taken note.

F

or the past three years, the Boston Museum of Fine Arts has served up Jewels, Gems, and Treasures: Ancient to Modern (through June 1), drawn from the museum’s over 20,000-piece collection of jewelry.

“Not only is this exhibit bringing a lot of visitors to the museum, but there’s now more respect for jewelry in the art world. It’s no longer considered something just for women [to wear],” says Yvonne Markowitz, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the MFA. While Markowitz’s next exhibition will focus on the museum’s collection of ancient Nubian jewelry, come September, more 20thcentury jewelry will be on display at the MFA as part of an upcoming exhibition devoted to Hollywood fashion and glamour.

New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, which has long been known for showing modern jewels, recently put together Jewels

by JAR, the first large-scale exhibition of the exquisite work of Paris-based jeweler Joel Rosenthal. “If you look at Joel’s work, it’s like sculpture, it’s three-dimensional,” says associate curator Jane Adlin. “There’s no difference between someone like Joel and

Frank Stella or Anthony Caro. It’s just that Joel is working in gemstones.”

The Met will soon be showing another exhibit curated by Adlin, International Contemporary Jewelry from The Donna Schneier Collection, from May 13 through August 31. It will feature more than 100 pieces from the 1960s onward, designed by 88 different artists from 17 countries.

Another museum at the forefront of bringing contemporary jewelry to the masses is New York’s Museum of Arts and Design, which will feature Multiple Exposures: Jewelry and Photography from June 24, 2014 through January 18, 2015. This ambitious exhibit focuses in part on how art jewelry and technology can collide. “Art jewelry is often idea-driven, so an exhibition can lend itself to a theme or aesthetic,” says Ursula Ilse-Neuman, the museum’s curator of

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Above: Armband (bazuband). Indian, late 17th–early 18th century. Gold, enamel and emeralds.

Left: Heraldic Maltese Cross Brooch, 1964. Cabochon green onyx, circular-cut-diamond and sapphire center surrounded by coral arms with circular-cut diamonds and gold. By David Webb, courtesy of private collector.

TOP: PHOTOGRAPH © MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF NORTON MUSEUM OF ART.

BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

1.

3.

5.

4.

jewelry. “That’s what makes it intriguing to our visitors. This kind of jewelry is not just about decorating the body or finding the right accessory for your green dress.”

In other cases, leading jewelry makers are arranging for their most beautiful wares to be shown in museums. Some glorious vintage Tiffany pieces are part of the Museum of the City of New York’s Gilded New York exhibit (through November 2014), which can be found in the new Tiffany and Co. Foundation Gallery; Cartier recently organized an exhibition of its finest works for the Grand Palais in Paris; Van Cleef & Arpels put together A Quest for Beauty, which closed in February at California’s Bowers Museum of Art; and the Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach, Florida recently

showcased David Webb: Society’s Jeweler, featuring over 80 examples of the master craftsman’s work from the 1960s and 1970s.

Clockwise from top left: 1. Emerald and diamond shell brooch. Seashell, Cabochon emeralds, diamonds. David Webb, courtesy of Primavera Gallery. 2. Tiffany & Co., perfume bottle, ca. 1895. Gold, diamonds, rock crystal, quartz, enamel. Tiffany & Co. Archives, A1999.57. 3. Ceremonial elephant brooch, 1964. Mabé pearl, carved rubies, circular-cut diamonds, carved and circular-cut emeralds, off-white enamel, platinum and gold. David Webb, courtesy of Hollis Reh & Shariff. 4. Marcus & Co. necklace, 1900. Gold, natural pearls, demantoid garnet, enamel. Courtesy of Siegelson, New York. 5. Marjorie Merriweather Post brooch. Possibly by Oscar Heyman & Bros.

(American, founded in 1912). For Marcus & Co. (American, 1892–1941). American, late 1920s. Platinum, diamond and emerald.

The Aurora Butterfly of Peace Perhaps the most unusual jewelry exhibition of the moment is The Aurora Butterfly of Peace currently on view through June 1 at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County. Artist Harry Rodman and curator Alan Bronstein spent 12 years assembling the 240-piece collection of natural colored fancy diamonds from around the globe, one stone at a time, and shaping them into a butterfly.

“The Aurora Butterfly of Peace is both an exquisite artistic creation and a valuable scientific collection,” says Dr. Eloïse Gaillou, NHM’s associate curator of the museum’s Gems and Mineral Collection. “A diamond’s flaws and impurities offer clues into the geological conditions that have dubbed diamonds ‘messengers of the deep earth.’ ”

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1. IMAGE BY ILAN RUBIN COURTESY OF NORTON MUSEUM OF ART. 2. IMAGE COURTESY OF MOCNY. 3. IMAGE COURTESY OF NORTON MUSEUM OF ART. 4. IMAGE COURTESY OF MOCNY. 5. PHOTOGRAPH © MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON. WILLIAM FRANCIS WARDEN FUND, MARSHALL H. GOULD FUND, FRANK B. BEMIS FUND, MARY S. AND EDWARD JACKSON HOLMES FUND, JOHN H. AND ERNESTINE A. PAYNE FUND, OTIS NORCROSS FUND, HELEN AND ALICE COLBURN FUND, WILLIAM E. NICKERSON FUND, ARTHUR TRACY CABOT FUND, EDWIN E. JACK FUND, FREDERICK BROWN FUND, ELIZABETH MARIE PARAMINO FUND IN MEMORY OF JOHN F. PARAMINO, BOSTON SCULPTOR, MORRIS AND LOUISE ROSENTHAL FUND, HARRIET OTIS CRUFT FUND, H.E. BOLLES FUND, SETH K. SWEETSER FUND, HELEN B. SWEENEY FUND, ERNEST KAHN FUND, ARTHUR MASON KNAPP FUND, JOHN WHEELOCK ELLIOT AND JOHN MORSE ELLIOT FUND, SUSAN CORNELIA WARREN FUND, MARY L. SMITH FUND, SAMUEL PUTNAM AVERY FUND, ALICE M. BARTLETT FUND, BENJAMIN PIERCE CHENEY DONATION, FRANK M. AND MARY T.B. FLETCHER LITTLE. BOTTOM LEFT: IMAGE COURTESY OF NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LA COUNTY.

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style

MIX In THE Freshen up your jewelry favorites.

BETH BERNSTEIN

Have a tennis bracelet that’s been sitting in the recesses of your jewelry box? Think your round, brilliant-cut, prong-set stud earrings look too traditional? Love your grandmother’s 1920s Art Deco diamond and platinum brooch but don’t know how to wear it alongside your contemporary jewelry? Spring 2014 is all about the art of the mix.

There is a trend towards updating classics you already own (or want to own) by combining them with more fashionable styles, or adding a contemporary element to those pieces in your jewelry box that you thought were outdated. It’s all about personalizing your jewelry look, which means mixing old with new, antique heirloom with modern, and even throwing in some edgy pieces.

Here are three tips to help you get the most mileage— and style—from your jewelry box:

Inherit This Style

If you’re one of those lucky women who have inherited an elegant Art Deco brooch but can’t figure out how to incorporate it into your everyday jewelry wardrobe, here are a few intriguing ideas. You can fasten it onto an elongated diamond station necklace, or

Diamonds Will Always Be a Girl’s Best Friend

wear the brooch as a pendant on a satin cord (layered with a station necklace if you wish). Or pin the brooch to the side

If you own a (flexible diamond line-style) tennis bracelet from the late-’80s or early-’90s

of a dress, and complete the look with

that was once chic (worn with Armani pantsuits to power lunches or out to coffee with the

linear earrings that also recall an Art

other moms), it’s time to try mixing it up. Add status pieces like large links or thin cuffs

Deco influence—a pair with swing and

and bangles. These diamond line bracelets are injected with new life when worn with

movement. But don’t stop there: get

another classic, like the Cartier Love bracelet, on one side, and a thin bangle with a

creative with a double-finger ring or one

gemstone and diamond pavé surround on the other. For an edgier look, add a snake cuff

of those fashionable bracelet/ring

that slithers around your wrist. For the more sentimental, layer with a charm bracelet; if

creations that extends from your finger

you haven’t been filling one up for years, it’s never too late to start. Your wrist is the

to your wrist.

Past Present

Love the sentimental designs of Victorian-era rings, but think you need to save them for a special occasion? Not so. Try stacking a Victorian cluster ring with mine-cut diamonds, or a new polished, rough-cut gray diamond ring from Todd Reed, and the look becomes current and playful. Or go for a garden theme, with a bold piece like Stephen Webster’s pavé diamond butterfly ring, worn with an antique snake ring on the same hand. Luckily, you have 10 fingers and limitless possibilities.

38

FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF PENNY PREVILLE, IVANKA TRUMP, STEPHEN WEBSTER

perfect place to mix metals—white, pink and yellow gold—and gemstones with diamonds.

trends

A

s the warm-weather seasons begin, jewelry and fashion have both entered into a nouveau modern era. In two words: sleek and uncomplicated. Still glamorous?

Definitely—but more panache with purity, if you will. When models strutted down the spring/summer runways wearing peek-a-boo sheers and cut-out mesh (and even see-through skirts) they looked sensual, but seldom overly sexy. “In fashion, there’s a distinct modernization going on, as designers are beginning to rethink luxury,” explains David Wolfe, creative director of international fabric, color and style forecasting agency The Doneger Group in New York City. “It’s super-simplicity—kind of no-fashion fashion. Yet there’s a lot of cutting-edge creativity. For example, clean-cut sharp angles—what I’m calling geometrickery!”

What does this mean in terms of jewelry accessorizing? “It’s the minimalist ’90s back in fashion. But not the stark minimal ’90s, when everything was spare—as in no accessories and no jewelry,” explains Vicente Agor, president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group. “This time around, sleek apparel is the backdrop for jewelry.

That’s key to what makes it now—completely 2014,” he says.

“The clean lines of the clothes actually let the jewelry stand out.

If you wear something exactly as it was styled in its original decade, then it’s a costume! So it’s very important to pair the new austere-shaded, streamlined clothes with jewelry. Otherwise, you’ll look out-of-date—very yesterday.”

“and jewelry looks very fresh when it’s large in scale.”

Nonetheless, says Wolfe, “Because there are many important silhouettes going on simultaneously this season, sometimes dramatic designs are needed while, at other times, what you wear may call for smaller, slimmer items of jewelry worn together for an overall uber effect.”

FASHION’S METALLICS, JEWELRY’S METALS Still, whether the jewels you wear this spring and summer are singularly super-sized or merely appear large when layered, the precious metal itself is a key consideration. To some degree, all the high-gloss futuristic fabrics are a factor.

“We’re currently experiencing a fascination with unnatural-looking textiles. Metallic is being worn year-round, not just during the holiday period,” Wolfe says. “All shades of metallic—blue, pink, green—a rich rainbow. But my favorites are the darker muted gold metallics; I call them golden glamour. They’re very complementary to the new jewelry we’re seeing in yellow, rose and darkened rhodium-plated gold, and these mix fabulously with white gold and sterling silver that’s oxidized to look gray or black.”

SIMPLY MODERN

COLORS . . .

AND NON-COLORS

Speaking of black, like last year, it’s the non-color that’s still going strong.

LIVING LARGE “Lots of sparkling white, too,” The first thing to remember when Wolfe reminds us. “Remember, wearing the season’s refined, white is now worn year-round. I unfussy clothes is to think big: especially like all the black-andLORRAINE DEPASQUE jewelry with impact is a megawhite clothes because it’s a color trend. And you can do that either combo that gives you a lot of by wearing large statement freedom with jewelry and other pieces or by layering several for a accessories. Beyond black and strong jewelry look. With luxury brands, top-trending categories include white, color runs the gamut, from bold and bright to darks to mellow yellow, knuckle rings and cocktail rings, power pendants and lengthy necklaces, neutral, and nude. And I love that very sophisticated combination of navy long dangle earrings—especially triple-stone drops—and slim bracelets and black, which many major fashion houses have given us. Although this worn in multiples—three minimum, but mostly five—stacked up the arm.

Ivanka Trump Metropolis collection layering necklace in 18K yellow gold with diamonds “Geometric and sculptural pieces are very important now,” notes Agor,

Jewelry’s new sophisticated simplicity.

40

year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium, and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter. And more monochromatic schemes of mid-tone blues, too.”

F

ine jewelry has, in fact, led the way when it comes to blues, says lapidary artist and veteran gem dealer Bill Gangi, who sells high-quality colored stones to many leading names in luxury artisanal jewelry. “It’s the number-one gem color every year,” he says. But in the 2014 Spectrum Awards (the annual premier competition for colored gemstone jewelry design sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association), there were notably more indigo, azure and cobalt-colored jewelry entries than in the 2013 contest. Tanzanite, blue sapphire, lapis-lazuli and aquamarine were hard-to-miss standouts—way more popular than in the previous year. You definitely want your jeweler to show you some new designs that highlight any (or all!) of those blue beauties. Other in-vogue blues are iolite, black opal, blue moonstone, labradorite, turquoise, blue chalcedony, blue topaz and blue zircon.

“A great color combination is blue with purple,” Wolfe recommends. “In fashion, purple’s been hot for the past four seasons.” Given that the Pantone Color Institute named Radiant Orchid as its 2014 Color of the Year, you can bet that purple passion will continue to heat up throughout the year. “It’s a modern and surprisingly versatile shade,” says Pantone’s executive DAVID WOLFE director, Leatrice Eiseman. (Take note: There’s that word THE DONEGER GROUP modern again!) Eiseman adds that Radiant Orchid is “a captivating, magical, enigmatic purple, inspiring confidence and emanating great joy, love and health. And it encourages expanded creativity and originality.” Looking at the breadth of imaginative new collections from goldsmiths inspired by a spectrum of violet, lavender and eggplant shaded stones—amethyst, alexandrite, sugilite, purple sapphire, kunzite, tourmaline, agate, quartz and lavender spinel—we can’t help but agree!

On a final note, it’s hardly coincidental that the Pantone Color of the Year is named after a beautiful, delicate flower. Remember, we’re enjoying an uncluttered, easy-to understand style era right now, one that’s often characterized by natural influences as well as geometrics.

Think about it: Both nature and geometry are minimalist at their core.

Going forward, well beyond 2014, forecasters are predicting that organic-themed collections will continue to grow, as women (like us!) are captivated by the perfection of the imperfection of asymmetric gemstones. Raw diamonds, baroque pearls, sliced precious and semiprecious color. . . each gem is one-of-a-kind from nature—and completely sophisticated in its simplicity!

This year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter.’’

From top: Penny Preville earrings in 18K yellow gold with moonstone cabochons and large organic aquamarine bottom drops Ivanka Trump Patras collection blue sapphire ring in 18K white gold with white diamond surround Stephen Webster hoop earrings in 18K rose gold and white diamonds Roberto Coin Haute Couture collection cluster ring in 18K white gold with iolite, blue sapphire and white diamonds Roberto Coin trio of single-row bracelets from the Poi Moi collection, in highpolished 18K rose, white and yellow gold

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©2013 movado group, inc.

MOVADO TC™ ULTRA-THIN CASE DESIGN IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH MODERN BLACK DIAL. MOVADO.COM

WATCH ADVISOR CAN ANY WATCH BE REPAIRED BY ANY TECHNICIAN, OR ARE WATCH MOVEMENTS UNIQUE TO EACH BRAND? It depends very much on the watch. Many watches use movements (the mechanism inside that actually keeps time) made in the tens or hundreds of thousands by major industry suppliers, but some luxury watches use their own in-house movements and materials that few watchmakers are trained to service, or can't obtain the parts to service properly.

Especially for luxury mechanical watches, we always suggest using a brandauthorized service center like the one in our store. Mistakes are very easy to make, and extremely expensive to fix.

How many parts are used to make a timepiece, and how many hours go into constructing it?

E

ven a simple mechanical watch that tells only the date and time can have over a hundred parts, including the case, dial and hands. Very complicated watches that include functions like a chronograph (stopwatch), a perpetual calendar (one that always shows the right date, no matter if the current month has 30 or 31 days, or even if it's February 29th in a leap year), or a repeater (which chimes the time on tiny gongs inside the watch) may have many, many more.

Watches that combine these complications, often called “grand complication” watches, may have close to a thousand parts, all of which have to be tested and re-tested. They can take nearly a year to assemble.

Most other watches take much less time to build. Exactly how much depends on the level of care that goes into finishing the movement parts, how complex the case construction is, whether or not any special techniques must be used to make the dial (for example, enamel and engraved dials both take considerable time and skill to make), and how carefully the watch is adjusted—that is, fine-tuned to keep time accurately.

Mechanical timepieces can be almost entirely machine fabricated and assembled, or they can be almost entirely made by hand, virtually from scratch. It all depends on the specific model.

A mass-produced mechanical watch is a marvel of industrial technology that makes it possible, for a reasonable price, to enjoy all the pleasures of mechanical watchmaking. A hand-assembled, hand-finished watch with a hand-finished movement, individually adjusted by an expert watchmaker, takes many dozens of hours of skilled work, which can only be done by highly trained experts with years of experience.

What is the difference between quartz and mechanical watches?

Is one better than the other?

A mechanical watch is powered by a coiled spring—just like a child's wind-up toy—and it uses a mechanical, rather than electronic, oscillator to mark time.

(Think of the principle of a pendulum clock, where the pendulum always swings, say, once per second. Of course, a pendulum wouldn't work in a portable timepiece; it uses something called a balance and

balance spring that perform the same function.) Mechanical watches are preferred by most serious watch lovers, and their history goes back much further— all the way back to the late Renaissance if you include pocket watches.

Quartz watches are generally more accurate and almost always less expensive. However, a wellmaintained mechanical watch can

keep time to within a few seconds a day, or even a week—more than good enough for most purposes.

Mechanical watches also offer a history and heritage far older than quartz watches. Though they're technical marvels, the massproduced, basically disposable nature of many quartz watches makes mechanical watchmaking something that continues to be held in high regard.

BY JACK FORSTER

A quartz watch is powered by a battery, and keeps time by passing a tiny current through a very small quartz crystal. This causes the crystal to vibrate, like a tuning fork, and a tiny integrated circuit counts the vibrations per second to mark time. The hands are moved by miniature electric motors. They are a fairly recent development; the first were sold to the public in 1969.

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Sustenpass Switzerland

MAVERICK 3-year warranty I Swiss Made I 43 mm I Water resistant to 100 meters

MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE

SPOTLIGHT by Roberta Naas

HOT WATCHES

Today’s finest watchmakers are pulling out all the stops when it comes to timepiece design. Key men’s looks for the season include stealth black chronographs to time his workouts. For women, classically chic styles that can easily move from business to an evening out are a must-have.

DAVID YURMAN Classic GMT World Time Iconic American designer David Yurman continues to create top-of-the-line Swiss-made watches. Among his more coveted pieces is the very functional yet refined Classic GMT World Time watch. Created in a 43.5 mm stainless steel case with integrated signature cable design, the watch houses a topquality Swiss automatic ETA Movement with 42 hours of power reserve. It offers hour, minute and seconds timing, as well as a dual time-zone function.

The sapphire crystal and caseback both feature two-sided anti-reflective coating for easy readability, and to allow for viewing of the movement. An inner rotating bezel on the watch indicates top world cities, and there is a printed 24-hour GMT track for use in finding time in different zones. The watch is water resistant to 100 feet.

RAYMOND WEIL Jasmine

From Raymond Weil, the new Jasmine timepiece represents the first time the brand has introduced an all-rose gold PVD over stainless steel watch for women—keeping totally on trend with the rose gold styles prevalent in today’s watch world. The timepiece is offered in 35 mm and 29 mm sizes, so women have a choice that meets their expectations and desires. Each watch features a sapphire crystal and an elegantly guilloched silvered dial with Roman numerals and date aperture at three o’clock. The Jasmine features a stainless steel with rose gold PVD bracelet that is bold yet supple, and delightfully alluring. The bracelet is meticulously finished with a folding clasp with double push security system. Offering both form and function, it is water resistant to 50 meters.

54

METAL TWISTED G-SHOCK

MTGS1000BD-1A Stainless Steel

TRIPLE G RESIST VIBRATION RESISTANCE SHOCK RESISTANCE CENTRIFUGAL FORCE RESISTANCE metal twisted g-shock A fusion of resin and metal encompassed in a case that has our trademark shock resistance with extraordinary elegance results in the perfect combination of our technologies and impeccable craftsmanship.

Š2014 CASIO AMERICA, INC.

PROFILE by Adam Gebhardt

GENEVA’S CROWN JEWEL To acquire a Patek Philippe is to become the custodian of an artistic and scientific tradition.

P

atek Philippe is Geneva’s oldest independent family-owned watch manufacturer, founded in 1839. Faithful to the most noble artisanal techniques, its watchmakers and craftsmen perpetuate the timehonored traditions that distinguish the fine art of watchmaking.

The company’s independence from corporate ownership enables the brand to go its own way and control its own destiny while pursuing a longterm vision. It also benefits from total creative freedom, developing and manufacturing its movements in house according to its own quality criteria, and producing only watches that reflect its quest for the exceptional.

The timepieces outlive passing fashions without ever losing their appeal or relevance. Patek Philippe has established its own understated, timeless style: a harmonious combination of personality and discretion, elegance and an aristocratic touch. The style has inspired models with simple, strong, refined lines. Now, as always, subtle modifications enable the watches to

evolve while retaining all their characteristic charm.

Representing tradition at its most dynamic, Patek Philippe constantly pushes the boundaries of watchmaking through its innovations. It has confirmed its pioneering role in the industry by filing more than 80 patents, including 20 of major importance to the history of horology.

Patek Philippe has always conceived its watches as exclusive creations. More than 200 models are in regular production, each in small series of between 10 and several hundred, and fitted with a vast array of in-house movements. From design to mechanism, they earn their special place in the hearts of enthusiasts the world over. The rigorous standards applied to every step of the development process and in the long months of crafting and finishing make each Patek Philippe a precious, unique creation coveted by the connoisseur.

A Patek Philippe commands a high price and will fully retain or even increase in value. Many of the models achieve cult status and regularly fetch Patek Philippe Twenty-4 record-setting sums at auction. Their stainless steel ladies watch with solid reputation amongst collectors— 36 diamonds, blue sunburst and the great sentimental value that a dial and diamond hour markers Patek Philippe usually acquires in the eyes of its owner—make each one a treasured asset.

To acquire a Patek Philippe is to become the custodian of an artistic and scientific tradition that has been handed down with care and will continue to inspire remarkable creations. It is your entry into the world where each generation is dedicated to perpetuating a unique heritage.

To acquire a Patek Philippe is also to welcome into your own family a possession designed to last for successive generations, signifying the start of your own tradition.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Annual Calendar watch featuring watch featuring date, day and date, day and month,month, moonmoon phase and phase and power reserve power reserve indicator, indicator $44,400

T IVO _.indd P0 44

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DETROIT, THE NEW WATCHMAKING CAPITAL OF AMERICA. TH E R U NWE LL FEATU R I NG A B LACK DIAL WITH R E MOTE SWE E P SECON D I N A STAI N LESS STE E L CASE AN D DETROIT-B U I LT ARGON ITE 1069 MOVE M E NT.

WATCHMAKING by Jack Forster

HOOKED ON CLASSICS

Heritage-themed watchmaking in the 21st century.

I

n 1969, the first quartz watch (the Seiko Astron, which cost as much as a car at the time) was introduced, and by the mid-1970s mechanical watches seemed to be on their way out. But today they’re back in a big way, and some of the most popular styles recall the most classic designs from the past.

Watchmaking has been around for nearly 500 years, and for the last century, wristwatches have dominated personal timekeeping. But they didn’t really take off until after the first World War, when their widespread use by officers as a more practical alternative to the pocket watch made them respectable for men to wear. (Before then, they were called “wristlet” watches and were worn almost exclusively by women.)

A fine mechanical wristwatch—a tiny, high-precision machine—was considered a masterpiece of miniaturization, and as the wristwatch evolved

technically, especially during the 1950s and ’60s, certain classic forms evolved too. One of the most important was the extra-thin dress watch. Extra-thin watches couldn’t be made by just anybody; they required high precision and care to assemble thanks to the unforgiving tolerances, so a thin, gold dress watch was considered a de rigeur accessory.

The development of better waterproofing techniques led to the evolution of sports watches that could be worn by divers, and specialist watches (particularly chronographs), which combined the functions of a watch and stopwatch, began to be made for pilots, motorsports enthusiasts, and were even worn into space by both American and Soviet astronauts.

Extra-thin watches seemed a dying breed, even during the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. As recently as 10 years ago, men’s taste ran strongly

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IMAGE COURTESY OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Jaeger-LeCoultre master engraver Dominique Vuez

WATCHMAKING in favor of large, aggressively styled watches, but in the last five years watch lovers have rediscovered the pleasures of the classic dress watch. The evolution of thin watches goes back a long way, to the 18th century, when some of the first thin pocket watches were made by Pierre de Beaumarchais (who also wrote the Figaro plays, one of which was turned into the opera The Barber of Seville, by Rossini). Making a true extra-thin watch that still keeps time well is a huge challenge. Everything from the mainspring to the case itself has to be built differently, in order to maintain the ability to keep precise time in a space that may be half the thickness, or less, of an ordinary dress watch.

For this reason, true extra-thin watches tend to be made by companies that have been in the business for a while—long enough to build up the necessary expertise. For real connoisseurs, they’re desirable not just for the technical skill it takes to make them, or their incredible elegance (they’re still the only really correct watch for formal events, James Bond’s Rolex-with-tux notwithstanding), but also for the heritage of the companies that make them.

One of the least-known but most interesting pieces of pilot’s watch history is from an even more unlikely source: Cartier. Cartier’s most famous watch is, of course, the Tank (first sold in 1918 and in production ever since, speaking of classic dress watches), but it’s not often realized that the Santos was originally designed as a pilot’s watch, for the great aviation pioneer Alberto SantosDumont. Santos-Dumont, one of the first to successfully build and fly a heavierthan-air craft, was a friend to Louis Cartier. When he complained that a pocket watch wasn’t exactly practical for flying, Louis Cartier made a wristwatch for him, which Santos-Dumont wore while flying as early Panerai Radiomir as 1906. Though the watch has been made in a huge Composite Black Seal 3 Days Automatic variety of styles, the basic design’s still the same. It’s fascinating to note that in addition to being one of the Cartier Santos, original and current most successful watch models of all time, the Santos was also the first pilot’s watch.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Diver’s watches are loved and worn by many who

What’s old is new again. Classic watch styles endure the test of time.

Think Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Piaget, and of course, Patek Philippe. intage-style chronographs are, for many, a reminder of some of the most important events in motorsports, with names like Daytona and Carrera representing both iconic competitions and the watches favored by drivers and enthusiasts. Although vintage-style dress chronographs are popular, the lion’s share of attention these days goes to sports chronographs, including models by companies like Rolex, Tudor and TAG Heuer which either revive favorite designs from the past, or which have actually never gone out of production (the Rolex Daytona is a case in point).

For their part, pilot’s watches have remained one of the most enduringly appealing of all watch types. In the explosion of interest in civil aviation postWWII, some of today’s most memorable designs were first created, including Breitling’s Navitimer and the Rolex GMT Master (first made for Pan Am aircrews). Ironically, one of the most popular aviator’s watches of all time—the Omega Speedmaster Professional—was first designed for motorsports enthusiasts (its tachymetric bezel is designed to calculate average speed over a measured mile). But it became immortalized in watchmaking history as the timepiece worn by all Apollo crews, and it’s still flight-qualified by NASA today.

V

never dive, though plenty of amateur and professional divers still use them, as a back-up to modern wrist-worn dive computers. They’re popular for both their rugged good looks and inherent durability. Not just any watch can be called a “diver’s watch”; there is actually an international standard which specifies, among other things, a 200-meter minimum water-resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetic resistance, as well as a certain minimum visibility in the dark, and a mandatory rotating timing bezel. Thanks to the rich history of the development of undersea exploration—and undersea warfare—in the 20th century, there are a wealth of choices, including the Rolex Submariner (in production continuously since it was introduced in 1954, and one of the most enduring designs of all time).

As with the Santos, some of the earliest diver’s watches may be a surprise.

Those who don’t know Panerai might dismiss their Radiomir and Luminor designs as mere exercises in style, but in fact they’re designs that originated in the 1950s (Luminor) and the 1930s (Radiomir), representing some of the first true diver’s watches ever made.

Whether you’re looking for a watch that’s rich in history, or just a greatlooking timepiece that recalls the post-World War II Golden Age of mechanical watchmaking, there’s never been a better time to be a watch lover.

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Time for a change?

Sometimes

A NEW SETTING is all you need.

technology

HOME SAFE HOME The best new ways to protect your valuables.

ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY New home security systems and jewelry storage options provide the latest high-tech innovations without being eyesores.

even view ourselves as a security company any longer," says Harkins. "We consider ourselves a connected home organization. Ten years ago, the protection industry was about the technician installing the system. Now it's about the consumer. We want the product to look really nice and elegant, and for the consumer to want to use it on a daily basis."

The same holds true for safes, which are also becoming increasingly high-tech and customizable, while not being a design eyesore. Casoro Jewelry Safes builds completely customizable safes and vaults offering a variety of exterior colors and interior fine wood drawers that give the feel of an elegant jewelry cabinet. Features like built-in watch winders, dehumidifiers or vertical space for guns or other collectibles can be easily added. Meanwhile, Cannon Safe offers Smart Safes with electronic-mechanical protection technology to guard against electromagnetic pulses and surges, which can disarm electrical locks. Cannon's safes can also feature internal power stations for dehumidifiers and chargers, along with USB ports and an RJ45 Ethernet media connection.

MORE TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS

■ The first, best security system is to not make your home a target in the first place: Avoid giving away exact

travel plans on social media sites, use proper external and internal lighting, and make sure doors and windows are secured while you’re away.

■ If you store passwords and combinations on your computer (you shouldn’t), label the file with a random title like “Best Shopping Malls” instead of “Important Passwords.”

■ Don't store passports and insurance papers in the same (probably prominent) safe your jewelry and watches are kept in. Consider a hidden floor safe in an obscure location.

■ For high-value protection, consider hiring an independent security consultant to review existing security measures and recommend upgrades.

■ Lock access to your mobile devices with a random password.

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TOP AND CENTER RIGHT IMAGES COURTESY OF HONEYWELL SECURITY PRODUCTS. CENTER LEFT AND BOTTOM IMAGES COURTESY OF CASORO MAXIMUM SECURITY SAFES.

I

t's not just on TV and in the movies: crime is becoming increasingly high-tech.

Whether the issue is identity theft or a sophisticated jewelry thief employing camouflaged miniature cameras and computers for long-term surveillance, it may be time to upgrade your own home security systems.

"The market's changed a lot in the past three to four years," says Scott Harkins, president of Honeywell Security Products. "It's way more than traditional security measures—doors, windows, smoke detectors." Honeywell recently integrated its Total Connect Remote Services system with its Tuxedo Touch touchpad controller, for a (residential or commercial) system that allows the user to customize operations from a touchpad, or one's smartphone, tablet or laptop. Multiple users and configurations can be assigned, so kids, visitors and service staff can have access to meet their needs. Separate buildings within the wireless automation area (workshops, guest cottages) get their own security systems, and you can add a beach house or condo's system to the same Total Connect app. You can secure all doors and windows at once wherever you are, schedule lighting to turn on or off, adjust temperatures as needed, and the app will instantly email you if anything doesn't seem right. Motion detectors placed inside valuables on display will notify you if they're moved, and cameras at doors or other security points can instantly email you video of what triggered them.

From blinds to sprinklers to electronics, anything that can be automated—like the popular Nest Learning Thermostat—can be connected to Honeywell's system.

Perhaps the most intriguing part of this integration of security with other aspects of your lifestyle is the focus on consumer appeal and ease-of-use. "We don't

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Weight Carat 1.53

ColorE Grade Grade Clarity VS1

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Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621 Natural Diamond Not Synthetic

For over 80 years, GIA has brought clarity and global standards to gem evaluation. A GIA report means expert, independent verification from the creator of the 4Cs and the world’s most widely recognized gem authority.

Look for GIA-graded diamonds and jewelers who offer them.

CARLSBAD ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MOSCOW MUMBAI NEW YORK OSAKA RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO

PERFECTGEMS

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

LÉGENDAIRE NICE

From its venerable position on the Promenade des Anglais, the very grand Hotel Negresco in Nice, France has epitomized Côte d’Azur style for over 100 years. Collected behind the lofty facade is 400 years of French culture and art including works from the reign of Louis XIII and avantgarde sculptures (Picasso and Dali often stayed here). After viewing the hotel’s treasures, guests can watch the chic passing Riviera scene while sipping rosé in the outdoor lounge. The sommelier will take interested oenophiles off to one of the nearby vineyards for a tour and tastings. And dinner at Le Chantecler, the two Michelin-starred restaurant with a wine cellar containing 15,000 bottles, is a full evening’s experience. Of course, for those who come to Nice for the sea, the hotel has its own private beach.

MICHAEL RUDDIN

DISCOVERING NEW WINES FOR SUMMER

When dining at Vetro Restaurant & Lounge in Howard Beach, New York, guests can enter through the front door or dock their yachts at the marina. The menu includes classic Italian food and over 400 wines. According to Vetro’s sommelier, PJ Connolly, “Summer wines should be refreshing and you need to find a crisp, clean acidity.”

The 2012 DAOU Vineyards Grenache Blanc Paso Robles from California is a grenache blanc with citrus and melon aromas and bright acidity. Nice for a barbeque. The 2012 Tenuta Guado al Tasso “Scalabrone” Rosato di Bolgheri, an Italian rosé, is blended from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Fresh with a crisp finish, serve with fruit and light salads. The 2010 Pago De Los Capellanes Crianza, Ribera del Duero from Spain is 100 percent tempranillo and goes well with grilled meats and salsa verde. And from France comes the 2010 Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru “Clos Des Myglands.” This pinot noir from the Côte Chalonnaise in Burgundy is a versatile wine: excellent with game meats or cheese, or by itself on a warm sunny day.

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A HORSE OF COURSE

Just 40 miles from Washington D.C. in Middleburg, Va., the Salamander Resort & Spa is set on 340 acres in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. It features luxurious suites, spa, cooking studio and wine bar, but it’s the great outdoors that beckons most visitors. In the Culinary Garden the chef teaches secrets of organic farming, and guests can pick herbs and produce for a cooking class or dine under the garden trellis. There are hiking and biking paths, tennis courts and croquet. Naturally, since the resort is surrounded by Virginia’s famed riding country, horses are a mane attraction (the resort has nine horses and two ponies, or you can bring your own). The Equestrian Program at Salamander includes a practice ring, instructional classes, and riding trails through woods and fields.

WRAPPING UP THE SEASON

ROBERT GODWIN

Before beginning her career as a couturiere, Jackie Rogers was a model for Coco Chanel and learned much of her craft, style and technique from the legendary designer. She’s created clothes for some of the most famous women in the world, including Julianne Moore, Condaleeza Rice, Roberta Flack, Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Salma Hayek and Courtney Love. For this spring and summer Rogers suggests a wrap-tie blouse, which she makes to order in 100 different colors (she particularly likes it in shocking pink). “A tie blouse can go over anything and make everything look new and fresh again,” she explains. (And think of the jewelry options!)

STRAVINSKY IN SANTA FE

Every summer The Santa Fe Opera in New Mexico presents repertory and contemporary performances on a high mesa overlooking two mountain ranges, a setting unmatched anywhere in the world. This summer, the program includes Carmen, Fidelio, the American premiere of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, and a special salute to one of the early supporters of this unique company. In 1957 Igor Stravinsky was invited for the first season. Intrigued by the innovative organization, the celebrated composer returned several times to direct and conduct his own operas. In 2014, Santa Fe pays tribute to Stravinsky with a performance of Le Rossignol, marking the 100th anniversary of the opera’s premiere in Paris. The nightingale doesn’t only sing in Berkeley Square.

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fashion

Here Comes the Sun Hot trends in sunglasses for 2014.

ELISE DIAMANTINI

The flowers are blooming and the days are getting longer. Wake up your wardrobe with a new pair of stylish sunglasses.

RETRO REVIVAL The ’70s have recently been a major fashion influence, and eyewear this season is also taking a nod from the decade. Says Fashion Snoops’ Lindsay Alt, “There is a very interesting ’70s influence happening right now; I love the Fear and Loathing look that we’ve seen on runways. I think people always fantasize about the late’60s and early-’70s, so trends from those times are often adopted quickly.”

MIXED MATERIALS Just as in women’s apparel and jewelry, mixing materials is a hot trend in designer eyewear. As Vision Monday magazine’s Deirdre Carroll predicts, all sorts of combinations—acetate fronts paired with metal temples or wood fronts paired with acetate temples, for example—will be strong styles for spring.

THE EMBELLISHED EYE

MIRROR MIRROR While some may see mirrored lenses and think “cop glasses,” this trend is taking the fashion world by storm. Carroll elaborates: “Flash and mirror coatings on lenses, usually seen on sport performance pieces, are now being paired with more fashionable acetate styles and feel especially fresh. Monochromatic frame and flash mirror lens pairings are also on the rise, i.e. a green frame with green lenses.”

SIZE MATTERS Oversized glasses are a tried-and-true trend that isn’t disappearing anytime soon.

However, as an update this spring, designers are introducing lighter-weight frames so glasses won’t weigh you down. “While oversized sunglasses and deeper optical frames are still popular,” says Carroll, “they can also be heavy on the face.

Designers are using more lightweight materials, like flat-sheet stainless steel and titanium, or carving the acetate more delicately, to make glasses more comfortable and wearable.”

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FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF RAEN, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, ANN-KARIN KARLSSON, JIMMY CHOO, BALENCIAGA

Have a little fun with your eyewear. Designers are enhancing glasses by adding quirky ornaments to some of this season’s frames. Or you can take a plain pair and DIY! “We’re seeing everything from cheetahs to rosebuds being placed right on top of the sunglasses, says Alt. “It’s something you would expect the younger generation to pick up, but everyone is going crazy for it. You never know what people will take to; that is what makes it so fun.”

BRENT HERRIG

Saul Bolton's Atlantic Black Bass with Braised Fennel, Sweet Pea Puree and Saffron Chamomile Sauce

BRENT HERRIG

food

CHEF SAUL BOLTON Saul, The Vanderbilt, Red Gravy Saul just reopened in a very exciting new location: the architecturally majestic Brooklyn Museum. How did the site change come about?

It was serendipitous. After 14 years at our Smith Street place and wanting to redo and rehab Saul, we saw this as a great opportunity to be part of an iconic institution. We were able to keep everybody from the old Saul and just continue on in the new location—in a bigger space. To have that kind of continuity in your kitchen and in the front of the house is a gift.

Manhattan’s Union Square Greenmarket is a destination for chefs as well as residents and tourists.

Which markets in Brooklyn should people check out?

We go to Grand Army Plaza on Saturdays. It’s a badass farmer’s market. Cadman Plaza in Downtown Brooklyn is Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The Brooklyn Heights farmer’s market takes

FINE FARE

Discover a few Brooklyn chefs crafting delectable dishes, in the borough no longer considered off-thebeaten-path. SHIRA LEVINE

care of the more specialty, esoteric stuff, like fresh lima beans and shishito peppers. The best fish purveyor in New York is also in Brooklyn. And we have great cheese purveyors here, like Saxelby in Red Hook. My favorite is Stinky in Cobble Hill.

What do you make of all the attention Brooklyn has been getting?

I’m really proud of where I live and I love to share it. I can cook foie gras in Brooklyn just as well as I can anywhere in Manhattan, and now people realize it.

You’re the man behind Brooklyn Bangers, which has become quite a successful enterprise.

T

hose who plan their travels around the gastronomic demands of the stomach (or rather, the palate) should point their appetites toward the newly haute Brooklyn food scene. No longer the borough where your grandfather played stickball, post-industrial Brooklyn is ripe with multi-million dollar urban mansion conversions and shiny glass skyscrapers. Even the most exclusive Manhattanites now salivate at the locally sourced, sustainably farmed charm of the varied dining options. People from Sweden to Singapore are dropping the phrase très Brooklyn when describing things ultra cool, and they’re chomping at the bit to feast on Brooklyn’s fare.

While the borough has long had its culinary attractions—The River Café, Peter Luger’s, Junior’s— a new wave of chefs has recently arrived to elevate the epicurean landscape. Like the influx of locals trading in Manhattan zip codes for new Brooklyn digs, chefs are seeking more space, cheaper rent, and a less frenetic lifestyle that allows them to tinker with recipes and cultivate their own culinary visions.

From back-to-basics dishes at cozy-chic restaurants, to Michelin-starred, fancy fine dining rivaling the best in the world, Brooklyn’s nouveau cuisine is giving Gotham’s more than 10,000 restaurants a run for their money. The small-village vibe of neighborhoods like Park Slope, Boerum Hill and Carroll Gardens provides a welcoming atmosphere that’s utterly un-Manhattan, yet just across the river.

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We wanted to do an American gastropub where we were making awesome sausages and charcuterie. It morphed into sausage-making equipment in the basement of The Vanderbilt. We started to sell them at the Brooklyn Flea, where some people wanted to buy them wholesale to serve at beer gardens and specialty stores. The Barclays Center approached us and we were like, “What the hell? Why not sell them at a basketball arena?” Next year we’ll be in Citi Field, MetLife Stadium and the Prudential Center, and we’ll be carried by [grocery delivery service] Fresh Direct.

What are your favorite restaurants in Brooklyn?

I love the tripe tacos at Tacos Matamoros in Sunset Park. I eat often at Al di La: great Italian in Park Slope.

I also love Tanoreen’s Lebanese food in Bay Ridge.

CHEF PAUL LIEBRANDT The Elm at King & Grove Hotel Williamsburg and be a part of the changes here. It’s certainly an area everyone is flocking to, so it’s exciting to be a part of that momentum. This isn’t the Williamsburg of a decade ago.

But traditionally you haven’t followed trends.

I’m not a trendy person. I always have my own voice. I was in kitchens since I was 15 and that’s how I was trained. You have to be true to yourself. I came here for the project, not to be a pioneer or whatever. That isn’t me. I want to reach

EVAN SUNG

the clientele I would have never reached with Corton. The Elm is sophisticated casual. It has elements of fine dining, but I don’t say it’s fine dining. This is in Williamsburg, but this project is not about being on trend.

CHEF ZAHRA TONGORRA Brucie

It was a big deal coming here from Manhattan. Your

Will you work with The Elm to bring another Michelin star

success there and your culinary background in London and

to Brooklyn?

Paris make you a bit different than other chefs that have

I’m not thinking about Michelin stars. I’m focused on giving

crossed the East River.

customers a different view of what I’ve been doing and

What does it mean to be a chef in

I think it was a natural progression. To be part of an

what they’ve already been getting in Brooklyn.

Brooklyn?

exciting, youthful and creative area is a risk, but it is one

Since you’re still exploring, what is your favorite place to

It is profoundly exciting. Being a chef and

that makes sense. For me, this is a nice project that is

eat in Brooklyn so far?

also the sole owner, your emotions span

approachable and fun. It’s exciting to be here in

I love Roberta’s in Bushwick.

the spectrum from exhaustion to elation, heart warmth to heartbreak. Now more than ever there is a lot of pressure to be

Lisa Giffen's Duck Breast with Chanterelles, Beets and Cherries

innovative and relevant amongst such amazing talent throughout the borough.

Some days it feels surreal that anyone knows my name or eats at my restaurant, and other days I feel really on top of my game and like I really belong where I am.

The word “trendy” is often used when describing Brooklyn cuisine. How do you feel about that?

Honestly, I love seeing trends, but Brooklyn as a place to eat is not a trend.

It’s awesome when a chef starts using an

CHEF LISA GIFFEN Maison Premiere

ingredient heavily and then it becomes a thing. I love seeing how it then spreads from hood to hood, and how they each

Tell us how your family heritage has

worked for mostly French chefs or chefs

blasted for not being a certain way.

influenced you as a chef.

who learned from French chefs, and

Could Brooklyn ultimately steal

make that “fad” ingredient their own by

I was born in Korea, but I was adopted

I love the discipline and dedication it

Manhattan’s culinary thunder?

using it differently. There’s a friendly

and grew up in Germany. My culinary

takes to learn this cuisine. Many of the

Manhattan will never fail to be what it

competitive spirit here in Brooklyn, and

heritage comes from my parents. My

techniques have been used for hundreds

is, this great Mecca of food, culture,

that’s what has driven the greatness of

dad is from the Midwest, and my mom

of years, which I find pretty amazing;

luxury and innovation. Brooklyn,

the Brooklyn food scene today.

is from Northern California. They come

they withstand the test of time.

however, is the place to be all of that,

There is an obsession right now with

from agriculture backgrounds, so a

How would you describe Brooklyn’s

but on your own terms.

food scene to those who haven’t

What is one of your favorite Brooklyn

Brooklyn-born gourmet food items.

kitchen rich with vegetables and meats are part of my heritage. My

experienced it?

restaurants?

family loves food.

Brooklyn is like Manhattan’s rebellious

I enjoy St. Anselm in Williamsburg.

Maison Premiere is distinctly French,

sibling: raised the same, but doing it

They have such great affordable meats

and your past work under famed

their own way. Most of the chefs who

and some wonderful seasonal sides.

chefs like Alain Ducasse, Dan Barber

have settled into Brooklyn worked in

Why do you think there are so few

we are awfully lucky to have access to

and Ed Brown was also French

Manhattan for many years, so we all

notable women chefs?

natural foods and exciting foods on the

influenced. What is it about French

have a sense of what the highest

It’s not necessarily that there are

regular. Brooklyn is a community that

cuisine that inspires you?

standard is. In Brooklyn you retain

so few women chefs. It’s more, “Why

supports the ritual of food. I love moving

I’ve been classically French trained, so

those standards, but you can put your

are women chefs so unrecognized?”

back to the very basic idea of eating as

it’s something I know well. I have

own spin on it. In Brooklyn you aren’t

It’s 2014!

we were always intended to.

71

It’s very cool when you can sustain doing these specialty things. I like when people do one thing really well. I hear people saying how ridiculous kale is, but

essay

Getting

the Hint

How to get the jewelry gift you want. BETH BERNSTEIN

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IMAGE COURTESY OF AHEE JEWELERS

W

hether for birthdays or anniversaries, my female friends (knowing I’ve spent my career in the jewelry business) would tell me which sparkling baubles they wanted their husbands or boyfriends to buy for them. It was then up to me to subtly convince these guys to spend a year’s rent on something they didn’t understand or appreciate.

Good news: I no longer have to go through all this. Most of my friends now take advantage of the digital wish lists provided by their favorite jewelers, which they can update throughout the year. In this way, they are able to more subtly communicate information to help their significant other choose the perfect gift.

But—and there’s always a but—your guy might not be able to fathom what’s so fabulous about the spiky bracelet you covet, since he sees nothing sexy about sharp objects draped dangerously around your wrist. Ditto for the gorgeous diamond pavé snake choker: snakes terrify you in real life, but now you want to wear one around your neck?

Nor will he comprehend why you’d want a rough- or rose-cut opaque, champagne or black diamond. Where’s the sparkle, he will wonder, worrying that no one will even know they’re diamonds… (Last year I spent two hours convincing one friend’s husband that an opaque gray rose-cut diamond pendant was what his wife truly wanted, and that it was, in fact, a “real” diamond.)

If you aren’t married or engaged and he’s not popping the question anytime soon, forget about asking for a ring. Dismiss your dreams of receiving a large trendy Boulder opal, a three-dimensional fantasy ring, or a rose gold spider with diamond eyes to encircle your index finger. Rings are just too intimidating for single men. I once witnessed a guy break into a cold sweat when a store owner showed him a thin micro pavé diamond band in yellow gold. Didn’t matter that it was for his girlfriend’s pinky finger, where she already wore several other rings. To him, it looked too much like a wedding band.

So my advice to women coveting a new piece of jewelry: purchase rings and more avant-garde styles as gifts for yourself, and start clueing in your favorite jeweler on the other pieces you crave.

This season, guy-friendly pieces might include drop earrings in firey opal or rainbow moonstone: something with a magical feeling that changes color with the light.

Or consider sentimental jewelry like an engraved locket or pendant. Perhaps he’ll even have it inscribed with symbols or words he lacks the courage to say himself.

You know how he feels, don’t you? So help him out a bit! You will both win in the end.

© D.YURMAN 2014

LUX BOND & GREEN ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2014