Hyde Park Jewelers

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

FALL/WINTER 2014

JEWELRY TRENDS HOT OFF THE RUNWAYS

HOLIDAY GOES GLAM

D E N V E R

GIVE THE PERFECT GIFT SPECIAL BRIDAL SECTION

•

L A S

V E G A S

•

P H O E N I X

Breguet, the innovator.

Classique “Le Réveil du Tsar” In April 1814, shortly after the allied armies had entered Paris, Tsar Alexander I of Russia paid a visit to Breguet and ordered several watches from his favorite horologer. Today, the Classique 5707 “Le Réveil du Tsar” equipped with an alarm-activation indicator and a dial featuring several hand-guilloché motifs pays tribute to one of Breguet’s most emblematic patrons. History is still being written ...

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fall/winter 2014-15

FEATURES 10 Welcome Letter 14 Red Carpet 18 Hyde Park Events 22 Diamonds in the Rough 24 Denver Health 26 Chef Troy Guard

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28 Watch Report 30 From the Runways 38 Scene Stealers 44 Designers: Stephen Webster 46 Pearls: Adding Panache 58 Exhibits: Cartier 60 Designers: Erica Molinari 62 Interiors: Roberto Coin 66 Anniversaries: Patek Philippe

BRIDAL SECTION 48 The Big Day 54 The Honeymoon 56 The Jewelry

47 ON THE COVER

46

Model Olga Bocharova (Wilhelmina Miami) wears Fred Leighton bracelets and ring, and Reserve Collection earrings. Photography and creative by Edwin Santa. Makeup by Eliut Tarin.

Hair by Lili Rodriguez. Jewelry styling

by Jennifer Ferkenhoff. Prop design

by Lee Laurence. Assistant Federica Galli. Retouching by Sthefania Henao.

OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE

rolex

oyster perpetual and day-date are trademarks.

H PJ E W E L S .C O M DENVER HYDE PARK CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E. 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 PHONE (303) 333-4446 PHOENIX HYDE PARK BILTMORE FASHION PARK 2502 E. CAMELBACK ROAD, PHOENIX, AZ 85016 PHONE (602) 667-3541 O M E G A B O U T I Q U E AT H Y D E P A R K — D E N V E R CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E. 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 PHONE (303) 331-7749 R O L E X P R E S E N T E D B Y H Y D E PA R K — L A S V E G A S THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS 3500 LAS VEGAS BLVD SOUTH, LAS VEGAS, NV 89109 PHONE (702) 794-3541 TRADITIONAL JEWELERS — NEWPORT BEACH FASHION ISLAND 817 NEWPORT CENTER DRIVE, NEWPORT BEACH, CA 92660 PHONE (949) 721-9010 MICHAEL POLLAK CEO SHEREEN POLLAK PRESIDENT DA M O N G R O SS COO S U S I L E X I E R - A LT M A N DENVER GENERAL MANAGER NANCY CASEY PHOENIX GENERAL MANAGER SANDI PERRY ROLEX PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK LAS VEGAS GENERAL MANAGER JOHN BURBA OMEGA PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK MANAGER BILL PETERS TRADITIONAL JEWELERS GENERAL MANAGER JENNIFER FERKENHOFF DIRECTOR OF MARKETING M O L LY W O J C I K DIRECTOR OF INTERACTIVE MARKETING PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA

PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI

PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R HANS GSCHLIESSER

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MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES

DESIGNER JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2014. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 2. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

8

welcome

It’s all about the experience.

It’s said that people decide with their wallets, but purchase decisions are often determined by factors other than price alone. I believe that the experience trumps all, and that a transaction is merely the starting point in a relationship with our clients. We have a duty as purveyors of luxury products to deliver on the promise of genuine excellent service, and to provide care and guidance throughout our opportunity to serve our clients.

At the end of the day, we want to become your jeweler for life by earning your trust. When personally making an acquisition, I wish to ensure that I’m being treated fairly. But even more so, there are golden rules that impact my decision: friendliness, respect, sincerity and follow-through are musts. I want to know the merchant will be there to stand behind the authenticity of the product and will provide service if required. These are the foundations of our philosophy. If we ever fall short (I wish we were perfect), I urge you to let me know.

Since 1976, we’ve approached business every day with the following questions in mind: How can we serve our clients better? How can we enhance our company for the benefit of our employees? How can we partner with the philanthropic community for the benefit of others? We are passionate about each of these pillars of creativity, our company culture, and our social responsibility. My wife, children and I live by these principles every day.

Because of our passion to grow our business, two years ago we acquired a legendary jeweler: Traditional Jewelers in Newport Beach, California. We have recently moved the location within Fashion Island Shopping Center and have opened our crown jewel featuring precious jewelry, Swiss watches and a state-of-the-art bridal experience and custom design studio. We’re very proud of the result and invite each of you to visit if you’re in the neighborhood.

Hopefully by the time you receive this issue of Accent, we will have opened the region’s first and only Breitling Watch Boutique and Roberto Coin Boutique, just a few feet away from our Hyde Park flagship store in the Cherry Creek Shopping Center. We look forward to presenting unparalleled selection and service in these two beautiful environments.

As always, take time to celebrate the special moments in your lives. These memories will be the ones you treasure forever.

Hyde Park – Denver

Hyde Park – Phoenix

Omega Boutique at Hyde Park - Denver

Warm Regards,

Michael Pollak CEO, Hyde Park Jewelers mpollak@hpjewels.com Rolex Presented by Hyde Park – Las Vegas

Roberto Coin and Breitling Presented by Hyde Park opened this fall at Hyde Park’s flagship store in Denver’s Cherry Creek Shopping Center.

Traditional Jewelers – Newport Beach

history a n d heroes.

radiomir 1940 3 days automatic (ref. 572)

hpjewels.com gives you unparalled access to the latest in fine jewelry and timepieces.

Join the Hyde Park community by connecting with us on social media to get insider information on all the latest trends and happenings, as well as new product unveilings and much more.

@HydeParkJewelers

@hpjewels

@hpjewels

red carpet Halle Berry

SHADY LADY Halle sticks to a single hue for her dress, jewels and accessories. Even her stone-studded belt is lovely in lilac.

Joanne Froggatt

PASTEL PRINCESS

HORRAY

forHOLLYWOOD

BRUMANI

Downton Abbey’s favorite nice girl shows her sweet side in a tea-length mint dress, complemented by rose gold and rainbowcolored jewels.

PASQUALE BRUNI

DOVES BY DORON PALOMA

A look at what’s sparkling on the red carpet and beyond... JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

14

Sarah Silverman

STAR STUDDED Statement stud earrings are back in a big way. They’re chic enough for evening but work just as well off the red carpet.

Sarah Hyland

OPPOSITES ATTRACT

RING GAME

It’s violet for Viola, but she warms up the coolcolored dress with ruby earrings and a firey red clutch.

Choose a splitshank ring like Sarah’s or stack them yourself for maximum impact.

More is more!

Maria Menounos:

January Jones

CHIC SEPARATES

SOCIAL CLIMBER

Most ladies go for a gown, but matching isn’t all it’s cracked up to be.

Maria makes it work with a colorful cocktail ring and contrasting hoops.

Worn with edgy ear climbers and a black diamond knuckle ring, this dress becomes more biker, less Betty.

JACK VARTANIAN

SUAZNNE KALAN, JORGE ADELER, JACK VARTANIAN

IMAGES COURTESY OF D’ORAZIO & ASSOCIATES

SUTRA

BRUMANI

Viola Davis

16

EVENTS

BEAUX ARTS BALL FEBRUARY 2014, DENVER

NIGHT FOR LIFE GALA MAY 2014, PHOENIX

Hyde Park Jewelers and Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry donated an incredible “Escape to NYC” package to this year’s Beaux Arts Ball gala benefiting National Jewish Hospital. The live auction package for the Gatsbythemed event included an Ivanka Trump Collection pearl and black onyx tassel necklace, a shopping spree at Hyde Park and a stay at the five-star Trump Soho New York Hotel. Each year, more than 1,200 people attend the ball to celebrate the world-renowned institution and to enjoy a night of spectacular entertainment and fine dining. The event raises millions of dollars to support the research and care of children and adults with respiratory, allergic, cardiac, immune and related diseases at National Jewish Health.

Photographs by Susan English

The Southwest Center for HIV/AIDS held its 19th annual Night for Life, which recognized key individuals, groups and companies for their work around HIV/AIDS. The evening included a silent and live auction, an emotional appeal fundraising ask and an awards ceremony. All funds raised from the event support programs and services provided to those impacted by or at risk for HIV or AIDS. One lucky bidder walked away with an OMEGA watch and one-of-a-kind NASA experience provided by OMEGA and Hyde Park Jewelers.

DENVER POLO CLASSIC JUNE 2014, LITTLETON The 27th annual Schomp BMW Denver Polo Classic was three days of exciting entertainment benefiting local children’s charities. Under their signature white tent, patrons and guests enjoyed exquisite drinks and gourmet food from some of the finest restaurants in Denver, all while watching the highest caliber of professional polo played in the United States. Hyde Park and Baume & Mercier teamed up to auction off his and hers watches as well as a gift bag full of fun Baume & Mercier goodies.

ONE MAN, ONE MACHINE. G.P.M.H. GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE CHRONO

S P O NSO R A N D O F F I C I A L T IM E K E E P E R O F TH E G R A N D P R IX D E M ON A C O H I S T OR I QU E

HOT ROCKS GRILLER JUNE 2014, DENVER Denver Health Foundation brought together 17 of Denver’s top chefs to compete in the 6th annual Hot Rocks Griller Challenge.

Michael Pollak, CEO of Hyde Park and chair of the Denver Health Foundation Board, welcomed supporters while members of the board and sports radio host Les Shapiro kept the guests entertained during the competition. Guests danced and bid on incredible silent auction items, all to the tunes of Chris Daniels and the Kings. Continuing on for a third year, Elway’s Cherry Creek’s Tyler Wiard and Aniedra Nichols took home the People’s Choice award, and Adam Branz of Bistro Vendome was voted by the chefs as their winner. The event raised awareness and funds for men’s health programs at Denver Health.

NIGHTSHINE GALA: AN EVENING FOR DENVER HEALTH FOUNDATION APRIL 2014, DENVER This year’s NightShine Gala, benefiting Denver Health Foundation, began with cocktails and a fourcourse dinner, and concluded with a live auction and performance by Michael Franti & Spearhead. One lucky liveauction bidder walked away with an incredible package from Hyde Park and Roberto Coin. The package included a trip to Italy with a special visit to Roberto Coin at his home in Vicenza, as well as a stunning Roberto Coin necklace. Denver Health’s Community Health Services was highlighted at the event and is the largest community health network in the nation. Between table guests and concertonly tickets, the NightShine Gala helped raise more than $1 million for Denver Health Foundation.

Photographs by Brent Johnson

P OIS MOI COLLECTION

giving back

DIAMONDS IN THE ROUGH

Celebrity dinner and golf classic benefiting YouthBiz, Inc., the Global Down Syndrome Foundation, Denver Health and Judi’s House Hyde Park hosted the 15th annual Diamonds in the Rough Celebrity Golf Tournament at Sanctuary Golf Course, raising money for children’s and health-related charities including YouthBiz, Inc., the Global Down Syndrome Foundation, Denver Health and Judi’s House. The event kicked off with dinner and a live auction at Elway’s Cherry Creek on the eve of the tournament, where Gary D. Levine was presented with the Humanitarian of the Year Award for his commitment to the Denver community. The dinner was followed up with a competitive golf match the next day. National and local celebrities, current and former professional athletes and top business and community leaders were in attendance to enjoy the two-day event and show support for the benefiting charities.

Chris Reiss, Kyle Herren, Mike Pritchard & guests

Shereen Pollak & Chris Monfort

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Jim Pacifico, Dale LeMonds, Kirk Ebert & John Ashton

Dave McReynolds, Michael Pollak & Mike Shaw

Tyler Meine, Steve Hodges, Johnathan Kaye & Gregory Kraff

Matt Iseman & Rob Riggle

Cindy & Steve Farber & Vivica A. Fox

23 Tom Rouen & Amy Van Dyken

Kendra Johnson, Mary Cox, Alfred Williams, David Bervig, Brad O’Neill & Barry Carson

community

DENVER HEALTH Where medical greatness and human goodness connect.

G

rowing up presents many challenges for young people today, but for some children and adolescents, the obstacles they face seem overwhelming. Parents and caregivers offer all the help they can, but in some cases, the problems persist and grow. A change of environment and intensive therapeutic treatment is sometimes what is needed to help the child or adolescent transition to new habits and attitudes, a healthier lifestyle and genuine hope for the future. The Denver Health Foundation is committed to raising awareness and the funds needed for the Child & Adolescent Behavioral Health research fund.

Under the leadership of director of Behavioral Health Dr. Bob House, the Department of Child and Adolescent Behavioral Health Services at Denver Health provides a wide spectrum of services to troubled children and teens. At Denver Health’s Department of Behavioral Health, three separate services come together in a continuum of care to meet the behavioral health needs of the youth in our community: inpatient, outpatient and substance abuse treatment services. Denver Health is the only hospital in the city of Denver to offer this level of comprehensive service to address the behavioral health needs of children and adolescents.

Treatment takes place on the Denver Health campus, on both an inpatient and outpatient basis, and at school-based health clinics. Providers include psychiatrists, psychologists, social workers, addiction counselors, occupational therapists, and a classroom teacher. All of the providers

specialize in treating children and adolescents. These specially trained providers have achieved a significant degree of success in providing treatment for a variety of emotional and behavioral problems ranging from abuse at home to drug addiction on the streets, to bi-polar, depression and suicidal disorders.

In 2012, Denver Health opened a new, 19,500-square-foot Child & Adolescent Psychiatric Unit at Pavilion M on the main campus. Nicknamed “Pav M,” the new unit is a state-of-the-art facility designed specifically to serve youth with mental health issues. With Pav M, Denver Health has increased inpatient bed capacity from 10 to 16 and, for the first time, they can provide expanded and co-located behavioral health services.

Mental health is a field where the capacity of providers in the Denver Metro area and elsewhere has diminished at the same time that the demand for services has increased dramatically. Denver Health’s Department of Behavioral Health provides the highest quality clinical services for children, adolescents and families. The Department emphasizes developing coordinated systems within the hospital as well as collaborating with other agencies and providers in the community.

To learn more about the Denver Health Foundation and attend one of their events, please visit denverhealthfoundation.org/events. To learn more about Child & Adolescent Behavioral Health services, please contact major gifts officer Jessica Milstein at 303.602.2987.

24

Fly By Night Collection

interview

Chef

vibrant cities, I felt like Denver kind of called to me… the landscape, the weather, the people... being in a big yet small city. I needed a place to hang my hat, and Denver it was. It was the best move I’ve made.

You have six restaurants in Denver. Do you plan to open more?

I plan to keep opening restaurants as long as it feels good to me and as long as I have great employees who share in my enthusiasm. Because really, without them, I could not do this. I’d love to open outside Colorado if the right opportunity presents itself; anyone have a place for me?

What do you consider to be your greatest achievement?

Being a father to my daughter Grace, who was born in September 2009, and opening my first restaurant TAG on Larimer in May 2009. Busy year but I’ve never looked back…

If your cooking career ended tomorrow, what would your new career be?

Besides being a kickass dad?! I’d love to design kitchens or restaurants, or maybe even pick up that guitar again!

I always wanted to be a rock star.

What’s the best piece of advice anyone has ever given you?

Even if things are going great and life’s just so awesome… always walk with caution. Also: Do what you love, love

Troy GUARD R

aised between two paradises—Hawaii and San Diego— Chef Troy Guard spent much of his youth either in the ocean or in the kitchen. “I was a fish,” he says, “and when I wasn’t in the water, I was grilling or barbecuing—mostly with my dad, who cooked kalua pigs at luaus.” Once he hit his teens, Guard’s parents sent him out to find a job... and the restaurant bug bit.

“Food is the connection that lets me express who I am. And we always do the best at what we love the most!”

Guard and Grace, an American steakhouse by Chef Troy Guard To what do you attribute your passion for food?

Both my parents were great cooks. My mom did her cooking in the kitchen what you do. and my dad did his outside on the BBQ. We ate every meal at home and on Your daughter is five. Does she show any interest in cooking? time: 5:30 p.m.! But boy it was usually good!

I think Grace is getting the bug; we’re always playing around in the kitchen.

Besides my family, Roy Yamaguchi also influenced my cooking. I started So what if cake batter flies all over? It’s about having fun! at Roys restaurant in Maui when I was 21. I had been cooking for a while but What are the must-try dishes at each of your restaurants? he really opened my eyes to the fact that that I could cook for a living.

I’ve opened six great restaurants and I eat in all of them weekly, because You began your career in San Diego, and then traveled the they all have my favorite things: world cooking. What drew you to Denver?

Los Chingones: chorizo guacamole with a Tang margarita I started in San Diego when I was 16 as a dishwasher at Cocos bakery. Gosh Tag: flash-seared kamapchi with pop rock and a kumquat jalapeno mojito I loved that job! I worked my way around until I became a line cook. That Bubu: Hawaiian salad with ahi tuna and fresh-pressed kale chia seed juice place was busy; over 1,000 covers a day! So I learned to be quick, efficient Tag Burger Bar: old-school burger with a sea salt caramel milkshake and organized. But I had no girlfriend and no bills, so I wanted to travel and Guard and Grace: 22 oz. ribeye steak on the wood-fired grill with a whiskey really learn. I never went to culinary school, so traveling and working all over on the rocks was my schooling. From California I went to Hawaii to Hong Kong to Tokyo Sugarmill: anything my partner/chef Noah French makes is awesome… with to New York to Singapore to Denver! Living all over and being in such warm milk to wash it down

26

HYDE PARK JEWELERS

WatchReport

CARTIER JAEGER-LECOULTRE

PATEK PHILIPPE

For Her BREGUET

CHANEL

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Rendez-Vous Night & Day, 36mm white gold case, gem-set dial, satin strap, water-resistant to 30 meters PATEK PHILIPPE 7121/1J-001, 33mm yellow gold case, grained silvery-white dial, yellow gold bracelet, water-resistant to 30meters CARTIER Ballon Bleu de Cartier, 33mm steel and 18K pink gold case with diamonds, flinque dial with silvered finish, steel bracelet BREGUET Reine de Naples Princesse, 43mmx34.95mm 18K rose gold case, silvered and anthracitecolored 18K gold dial, leather strap, water-resistant to 30 meters CHANEL J12 Black, 36.5mm black high-tech ceramic and 18K beige gold case with diamonds, black guilloche dial with diamonds, black high-tech ceramic bracelet, water-resistant to 100 meters

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BREITLING

PANERAI

TUDOR

For Him OMEGA

PATEK PHILIPPE

BREITLING Avenger Blackbird, 48mm black titanium case, black dial, military strap, water-resistant to 300 meters TUDOR Heritage Ranger, 41mm steel case with satin finish, black dial, bund leather strap, waterproof to 150 meters PANERAI Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Oro Bianco, 45mm 18K polished white gold case, black dial with luminous dots and hour markers, alligator strap PATEK PHILIPPE 5960/1A, 40.5mm steel case, silvery opaline dial with blackened gold hour markers, steel bracelet, water-resistant to 30 meters OMEGA Bullhead Co-Axial Chronograph, 43x43mm steel case, white dial, brown leather strap, water resistant to 150 meters

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from the

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COLOR CONTRAST

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MARCO BICEGO 18K yellow gold and aquamarine Lunaria necklace ZOCCAI double-drop earrings STEPHEN WEBSTER Magnipheasant Feathers cocktail ring in 18K white gold with citrine and garnet CHOPARD Imperiale, 40 mm 18K rose gold case with rainbow sapphires and diamonds, mother-of-pearl dial, purple leather strap 5. IVANKA TRUMP Patras African ruby earrings in 18K yellow gold with diamonds

EMPIRE COLLECTION Diamonds 路 Prasiolite 路 Tourmaline

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RESERVE COLLECTION diamond, sapphire and agate chandelier earrings PESAVENTO DNA multi-strand necklace in black sterling silver BAUME & MERCIER Promesse, 30mm steel case with diamonds, black dial and black leather strap PRIVEE SELECTION gray jade long drop earrings in 18K white gold with diamonds STEPHEN WEBSTER black ceramic link bracelet with 18K white gold and diamond clasp PRIVEE SELECTION hematite and quartz ring in 18K white gold with diamonds

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GRAPHIC ARTS

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MARCO BICEGO 18K yellow gold Lunaria necklace KWIAT Cobblestone Collection diamond rings in 18K rose, yellow and white gold PHILLIPS HOUSE 18K yellow gold and diamond No. 3 necklace IVANKA TRUMP Empire band in 18K yellow gold with diamonds PENNY PREVILLE 18K yellow gold and diamond Deco cuff RESERVE COLLECTION 18K rose gold and diamond earrings

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KWIAT round and pear-shaped diamond pendant in 18K white gold EFVA ATTLING aquamarine Bend Over ring in 18K white gold with diamonds ROBERTO COIN Shanghai Collection ring in 18K white gold with diamonds and semi-precious stones PHILLIPS HOUSE 18K white gold and diamond bracelet MIKIMOTO white South Sea cultured pearl Prestige earrings in 18K rose gold and platinum with diamonds

CENTO COLLECTION

Norman Silverman diamond earrings, necklace and rings.

scene STEALERS It’s all in the details with these decadent diamond designs.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y E D W I N S A N TA

Reserve Collection earrings, necklace and bracelet with Norman Silverman rings.

Reserve Collection cocktail rings

Kwiat diamond earrings, necklace and bracelet with Norman Silverman ring.

Photography and creative by Edwin Santa. Makeup by Eliut Tarin. Hair by Lili Rodriguez. Styling by Jennifer Ferkenhoff.

Model Olga Bocharova, Wilhelmina Miami.

©2014 movado group, inc.

THE BOLD DIAMONDS TIME REFLECTS A SPARK OF BRILLIANCE. NEW 25MM MOVADO BOLD® BRACELET WATCH IN YELLOW GOLD ION-PLATED STAINLESS STEEL WITH 54-DIAMOND BEZEL. MOVADO.COM

designers

Stephen

WEBSTER We caught up with the acclaimed jewelry designer to find out what he’s up to.

1

COURTESY OF PROFESSIONAL JEWELLER

S

tephen Webster, the London-based luxury jewelry brand internationally heralded for its exquisite and cutting-edge designs, continues to flourish under its founder and creative director, Stephen Webster. Taking inspiration from music, fashion, literature and art to produce contemporary, bold and glamorous collections, this unique approach to fine jewelery has been some 40 years in the making.

Built on a foundation of technical excellence that started at the workbench in London’s Hatton Garden, where Webster began his apprenticeship at the age of 16, this distinctly British heritage and passion for traditional goldsmithing remains at the heart of the Stephen Webster brand today.

With an inimitable style created by the bold combination of innovative design, uncompromising attention to detail, together with the finest materials, Stephen Webster continues to dazzle by interpreting modern and diverse imagery via traditional, precision craftsmanship.

The genius of Stephen Webster design is finding inspiration for fine jewelry in every aspect of life. Freewheeling, open-minded and multifaceted, the designs are thought provoking and unpredictable while always remaining rooted in craftsmanship and exquisite detail.

Initially, the strictly mannered discipline of making jewelry provided a rigorous set of regulations and parameters that suited the brand; the notion of structure, balance, setting and proportion, the application of timehonored, hand-crafted techniques and processes. But as the brand has developed, Webster acknowledges that he’s had to learn to evolve from being a craftsman jeweler to a haute jewelry designer, all the time maintaining a standard of uncompromising quality, finish and detail.

“I went from being commissioned to create specific pieces to being able to indulge in my own creativity,” he says. “From being told what to make, to making things the way I wanted them.”

As the brand grew in stature and international repute during the early 1990s, a signature style and autodidactic design sensibility developed. “A bold luxurious look,” Webster calls it. “In terms of materials I’ve always approached design from a maximalist point of view. Even now, when I’m getting excited about a gem it will instantly translate into the design of a collection,” he says. “Music is a strong influence and, of course, the view of the sea from my house by St. Margaret’s Bay overlooking the White Cliffs of Dover. For something like my Jules Verne collection, I looked into the ocean and saw more jewels. The ocean is a very authentic reference for me. ” All Stephen Webster collections begin with an idea, often something abstract: a feeling or a memory, a literary, film or musical reference.

Webster then works alongside his team, both craftspeople and designers,

to create a mood board. Group discussions are held and the creative team visits stonecutters and gem specialists, reads volumes of poetry and plays music. Past collections have been influenced by things as diverse as William Blake, the Seven Deadly Sins, Jules Verne and Agatha Christie’s murder mysteries.

“My job is to tell a story, to be inspired by something I’ve seen and encourage my team to turn it into something extraordinary, directional and avant-garde” says Webster “From there we start forming some shapes.”

The most cutting-edge collections, the ones that dare to be different, are the ones that have defined both the brand and Stephen Webster’s skill and reputation as a jewelry designer.

“The maverick pieces that tick all the boxes for fine jewelry and craftsmanship but also have the nerve to be unusual and from the left field may seem outrageous and audacious at first… but they are the ones people tend to remember.”

With over 200 points of sale worldwide and flagship stores in London, Beverly Hills, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kiev, Stephen Webster has become synonymous with thought-provoking, iconic and infinitely beautiful jewelry.

THE DESIGNS ARE THOUGHT PROVOKING AND UNPREDICTABLE WHILE ALWAYS REMAINING ROOTED IN CRAFTSMANSHIP AND EXQUISITE DETAIL.

45

In His Own Words How and when did your career start?

I was going to study fashion design at the Medway College in Kent and by chance walked into a jewelry design class rather than the fashion design room. The flames, noise, chemicals and shiny objects were instantly appealing and much more up my alley then fashion design. I guess it was a good choice as 38 years later I am still at it!

Describe your creative process: It has always been my passion to cultivate jewelry collections that push all creative boundaries, are high on innovation and are unreservedly cool. My love of music has also really influenced my style; it has been my passion from very early days. All of my work is a reflection of my personality. I am fortunate that, selfishly, I have pursued topics and inspirations from my life’s experiences and translated them into our many collections. Within all of them there is vibrancy. I am a cheery fellow.

Three things people don’t know about Stephen Webster are: • I’ve run six marathons with a personal best of 2 hours, 47 minutes.

• I bought a 1959 T-Bird after my first successful show in Las Vegas, restored it and drove from NY to LA doing trunk shows at all my accounts.

• I can dance a complete scene from Riverdance after a few vodkas.

pearls

ADDING PANACHE This season’s wardrobe essential is a take on every season’s wardrobe essential: perfect pearls!

KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

Next to sound judgment, diamonds and pearls are the rarest things in the world.”

–Jean de la Bruyere

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here are few creations of nature as beautiful, versatile, romantic, or transformative as genuine pearls.

Coveted as far back as 51 BCE (the age of Cleopatra), even a simple strand of lustrous, well-matched pearls will add instant panache to everything you wear, from a T- shirt and jeans to a little black dress.

Dressing with pearls does not require complicated how-to charts. Simply clasp on a single strand to enhance the elegance of everything in your wardrobe, or splurge on a longer length to be worn doubled or tripled for maximum impact. Akoya, fresh water, Black, White or Golden South Sea, Conch, Melo, Baroque, Keshi, Mabe, natural or cultured: the choices are vast, the rewards more so. Follow your heart and choose pearls that most closely reflect your spirit; talk to our highly trained associates and we’ll help you make the perfect selection.

For holiday 2014, options include suspended settings that showcase the pearl from every angle, and pearls mixed with colored gemstones (mint tourmalines, star sapphires) or with fancy-cut diamonds.

Another suggestion: once you own that perfect strand of luminous white or ivory pearls, why not test the magic and mystery of Black South Sea cultured pearls? In 1914, exactly a century ago, Mikimoto established its first Black cultured pearl farm on Okinawa Island. In celebration of this milestone anniversary, Mikimoto has launched a limited-edition multi-colored Black South Sea cultured pearl necklace and bracelet set with signature clasps. Consider too Mikimoto’s Black and White South Sea cultured pearl gradient lariat set in 18K white gold with pavé diamond clasp (pictured far left), the Baroque Black South Sea cultured pearl and pavé diamond ring (pictured left), or Black South Sea pearl and diamond Embrace earrings.

Could there be a more meaningful holiday gift? Or as the poets put it: “Love makes everything beautiful, even tears become pearls if they flow in someone’s love.”

WEDDINGS

IMAGE LARA FERRONI, COURTESY OF AK CAKE DESIGN

A SPECIAL BRIDAL SECTION FROM ACCENT MAGAZINE

T H E B I G D AY

BY KRISTEN FINELLO

new twists on tradition WHEN IT COMES TO TYING THE KNOT, COUPLES AND EVENT DESIGNERS ARE CONSTANTLY LOOKING FOR WAYS TO PUT A UNIQUE SPIN ON TRADITIONAL ELEMENTS. FROM MUSEUM-WORTHY CAKES TO DRAMATIC DRESSES, STEAL THESE IDEAS TO MAKE YOUR BIG DAY A STANDOUT SUCCESS.

SENSATIONAL SEATS Not long ago, draping guest seats with fabric chair covers was a simple and popular way to add interest and elegance at a ceremony or reception. “Over time, though, everyone got tired of seeing so much fabric in a room and chair covers were replaced by the chiavari chair,” says Dallas-based celebrity wedding and event specialist Donnie Brown, author of Donnie Brown Weddings: From the Couture to the Cake. The chiavari, with its classic, elegant style, became the go-to for many couples and event designers. Now the chameleon chair—aptly named because it can be customized to complement virtually any wedding aesthetic—has become the seat of choice. “Chameleon chairs are the coolest chairs in the world,” says Brown, who has used them at many events. Made of steel, the basic chair comes in several styles and leg colors including black, gold and silver. Dress them up with seat cushions, chair covers and jackets (longer swaths of fabric) in dozens of fabric colors, from charcoal and platinum to eggplant and raspberry. For an even more dramatic look, choose chair covers or jackets with tulle, lace, metallic or ruffles. “Now you can completely customize your chairs to your event,” says Brown. “They are fabulous.”

DECADENT DÉCOR “Sparkle and glitz are really big right now,” explains Brown. One creative way to bring some bling to your event is to incorporate jewelry into the décor. Using brooches is especially chic. They can glam up cakes, escort cards, napkins (tie with a pretty ribbon and attach a brooch), menu cards and bridal bouquets. “One of the big things these days is using brooches on the cake,” says Brown. “I also

around each tier instead of piping.” Rhinestones can add a reflective element to guest tables too. “Instead of a fabric runner, arrange a wide band of rhinestones down the center of the table,” suggests Brown. Traditional linens are getting a high-style makeover with the addition of embellishments such as ruffles, stones and beads. Seasonally-hued stones in amber, black and brown are especially trendy for fall.

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COURTESY OF EDMONSON PHOTOGRAPHY

did a wedding where we decorated the cake by stringing rhinestone necklaces

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Weight Carat 1.53

ColorE Grade Grade Clarity VS1

Grade CutExcellent

Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621 Natural Diamond Not Synthetic

For over 80 years, GIA has brought clarity and global standards to gem evaluation. A GIA report means expert, independent verification from the creator of the 4Cs and the world’s most widely recognized gem authority.

Look for GIA-graded diamonds and jewelers who offer them. www.4cs.gia.edu CARLSBAD ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MOSCOW MUMBAI NEW YORK OSAKA RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO

WHY DIAMOND KNOWLEDGE STARTS WITH THE 4CS Every diamond is unique—a precious expression of celebration and aspiration around the world.

And yet all diamonds share certain features that allow us to compare and evaluate them. Recognizing the need for one standard to describe a diamond’s quality, GIA created the 4Cs: a universal language that diamond buyers everywhere can understand.

Here are some quick pointers to help you become better educated about each of the 4Cs.

Carat Weight 1.53

Color Grade E

Clarity Grade VS1

Cut Grade Excellent

CARAT WEIGHT

COLOR GRADE

CLARITY GRADE

CUT GRADE

Carat weight is the measurement of how much a diamond weighs. All else being equal, diamond price increases with carat weight, because larger diamonds are more rare and desirable.

Diamonds are valued by how closely they approach colorlessness – the less color, the higher their value. GIA’s D-to-Z Scale begins with D, representing colorless, and continues to Z, for diamonds that appear light yellow or brown.

Diamond clarity refers to the relative absence of inclusions and blemishes.

The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades, with most diamonds falling in the VS (very slightly included) or SI (slightly included) categories.

In evaluating cut for the standard round brilliant diamond, GIA takes into account seven components: brightness, fire, scintillation, weight ratio, girdle thickness, symmetry, and polish. It then assigns a cut grade ranging from Excellent to Poor.

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE 4CS AND HOW TO CHOOSE A DIAMOND ON GIA’S OFFICIAL

CHANNEL.

ELEGANT AFFAIRS

THE FRESHEST FARE From cocktail hour to dinner, the focus is on fresh, tasty and elegant. “It’s about the quality of the food, not just having an abundance of it,” says Andrea Correale, president and founder of Elegant Affairs Caterers in New York. “People are eating less and looking for healthier items such as local, organic produce.” Farm-to-table is a huge trend and couples are displaying menu cards that list the sources of the food they’re serving. The long-popular antipasto table is out, says Correale. In its place she suggests a chef-manned burrata (creamy mozzarella) bar with a selection of pestos and a hanging bread display. Also popular are vegan sushi and dishes such as free-range organic chicken with kale or quinoa salad. For couples wanting to update the traditional Champagne toast, Correale serves flutes of Champagne Jello topped with a toast point and caviar. And whether it’s a rolling oyster bar, gueridon service (in which some dishes are partially prepared tableside on a food service trolley) or strolling waiters offering organic beet and taro root chips, interaction and old-time elegance are back big-time. In fact, even the venerable Viennese table has been replaced by butler-passed bites such as pie fries, cheesecake lollipops, and warm cookies with a shot of milk.

ONE-OF-A-KIND CONFECTIONS No longer just a sweet treat to finish off the meal, cakes are becoming an important design element at weddings. “Couples want a cake that reflects their individuality and harmonizes with the look and feel of their event,” says Allison Kelleher, owner of AK Cake Design in Portland, Oregon.

“That could mean an elegant white cake with sugar flowers or a bold, brightly colored creation.”

Today’s cakes are impressive works of art that feature elements such as mosaics, metallics and hand-painting. So-called “naked” cakes—tiers of cake and filling without an iced outer layer—are also popular with couples favoring a natural look.

They can be served as one large cake or individual mini cakes. Also hot: unusual cake shapes such as spheres and taller-than-usual tiers. “Cake tiers have typically been four inches high but now we’re

taller,” says Kelleher. “When stacked all together they make for a lovely and graceful cake.”

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LARA FERRONI

seeing individual tiers that are five to six inches or

ISABELLE ARMSTRONG

DRESSES THAT IMPRESS Every bride wants a dress that wows, and the latest looks don’t disappoint. White is timeless but dresses in soft tones such as blush and peach are gaining popularity with fashion-forward brides looking for a new twist on tradition, says Tara Nattini, president of bridal design house Isabelle Armstrong. “The silhouette may be classic but the color makes it modern.” For another contemporary take, brides are opting for subtle yet striking ombre designs that gradually transition from white or ivory to a color such as pink or peach. Also on-trend: gowns that highlight the bride’s back. “The back is really the focal point when the bride is walking down the aisle, so we’re accentuating it with crystals and lace, says Nattini. “Plus, jewelers are doing dramatic necklaces that trail down the back and dresses with bare backs really show them off.” Finally, taking a cue from Duchess Katherine, and more recently, Kim Kardashian, brides are opting for sleeves to the elbow or wrist. “Once considered very traditional, sleeves are becoming more modern and trendy,” says Johanna Kraft, designer and production manager at Isabelle Armstrong. Her fall collection includes gowns with detachable sleeves that give brides two looks in one dress: classic long sleeves for the ceremony and a sexy, sleeveless reception style.

WE ARE FAMILY When it comes to choosing attendants, couples are ignoring outdated rules and following their hearts. For one thing, they no longer feel obligated to have an equal number of bridesmaids and groomsmen, so there’s no pressure to fill a spot or leave out someone you’d like to include. “I’m also seeing a lot more male/female role reversals,” says Brown. A bride, for example, might have her brother or a close male friend on “her side” rather than only asking sisters or female friends. Having parents or even grandparents in the bridal party is another new twist. For her March MICHAEL CASWELL PHOTOGRAPHY

2014 wedding, Cali Solorio of Austin, Texas asked her beloved grandmother and great aunt to serve as flower girls. The ladies joyfully tossed petals as they walked down the aisle. “We got so many compliments. People couldn’t stop talking about them,” says Solorio. “I loved having them in my wedding and I’m so glad we decided to do something untraditional that people will remember.”

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THE HONEYMOON

BY KELLY E. CARTER

LIFETIME ADVENTURES

HORSEBACK RIDE IN BOTSWANA

SURF IN THE MALDIVES

Add romance to action with a stay in an over-the-water bungalow at a luxurious resort in this tropical paradise in the Indian Ocean.

Known for its spectacular whitesand beaches and shimmering turquoise waters, the Maldives are also where water-loving lovers can hang 10 together on some of the most perfect waves in the world. Surf breaks are endless but immediate access from resorts is limited. Charter a boat to reach the best breaks and escape the crowds that pack boat shuttles from hotels during the busy months. Surfing in the Maldives is available year round, but June to September are the prime months for honeymooners chasing the best swells. Avoid the masses in the Central Atoll and the more isolated South Atolls, but expect plenty of company in the Malé Atolls. TropicSurf can arrange luxury surfing experiences with five-star boats and resorts, expert guides and tailored trips such as a romantic dinner on a deserted island or a private seaplane to a secluded surf break (which would take a boat several hours to reach). Visit tropicsurf.net.

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Safaris, one of travel’s ultimate thrills, are even more exciting from the saddle.

They don’t get any better than in Botswana, where game is wide-ranging and plentiful. Home to all of the Big Five (lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros), Botswana also boasts Africa’s largest concentration of elephants. Ride through the glittering Makgadikgadi Salt Pans and the expansive horizons of the Okavango Delta, where it’s possible to come across elephants, zebra, hippos and giraffes. Lovebirds who go during green season, the early part of the year and when the dry savannah turns verdant, have to put up with a little rain but benefit from the numerous birds drawn to the lush landscape. In the Kalahari they’ll have the opportunity to ride alongside the zebra, wildebeest and springbok migration, and should be able to enjoy a more personalized experience thanks to fewer crowds.

Those who disdain pre-packaged tours can have Explore Africa design a highly-customized, private experience tailored to their budget, created for beginner to advanced riders, and offering accommodations ranging from luxury lodges to mobile camps, whether it be for one day or two weeks. Special honeymoon arrangements can be made as well as handcrafted, one-of-a-kind adventures.

Visit exploreafrica.net.

IMAGES COURTESY OF UNCHARTED AFRICA

During sundowner, newlyweds can toast while gazing at a spectacular sunset.

BACKROADS

TREK FROM CUSCO TO MACHU PICCHU Think of the fun newlyweds can have rubbing each other’s feet every evening after a lodge-to-lodge journey on foot from Cusco, once the capital of the Inca Empire, to Machu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Machu Picchu, rising nearly 8,000 feet above sea level in a tropical mountain forest, may be one of the most famous sites in the world and is visited by countless travelers annually, but there’s still a way for couples to have a distinct experience while visiting this 15th-century Inca creation. With a voyage arranged through Backroads, honeymooners can have porters and mules transport their luggage while they tackle the trail on foot during the day. At night, they’ll sip bubbly in the outdoor hot tub of a luxurious hotel. As a way to control the tourism impact on the area, Machu Picchu mandates that all visitors take its buses to the cultural site. But honeymooners in search of romance can grab one of the early buses to enjoy the first light of the day and slip away to a quiet corner away from the crowds to take it all in. The more adventurous in search of the most impressive view can hike Machu Picchu Mountain, using a special permit from Backroads. As if the trip isn’t mind-blowing enough, the company can help make this an even more extraordinary expedition. For an additional fee, they’ll provide Champagne that guests can sneak in to the ruins and arrange for a private dinner with the chef at Sol y Luna restaurant, room upgrades at lodges, and a private meeting with a shaman to read their cocoa leaves. Visit backroads.com.

KITE SKI THROUGH ANTARCTICA This frosty, remote continent gives thrill-seeking twosomes even more reason to snuggle.

By itself, Antarctica sounds like a journey beyond the imagination of many. Toss in the exhilaration of kite-skiing and the stimulation of ice climbing and newlyweds will relish an adrenaline-pumping honeymoon on the Earth’s southernmost continent, where stunning scenery, dotted by icebergs at every turn, overwhelms.

Whisk across pristine snow while kite-skiing—more like cross-country than downhill skiing—or ascend virgin peaks while ice-climbing untouched mountains. Those who book an adventure with White Desert, which doesn’t require guests to be athletes, only in normal physical condition, follow as professional polar explorers guide them to nirvana. White Desert offers standard programs that include climbing, kite-skiing and a visit to the Emperor Penguin colony to see the real life stars of March of the Penguins, but also designs bespoke excursions to meet clients’ wishes, such as a special kite-skiing trip using 4x4 for support while out in the field.

When a couple wed last December at its camp, which fuses old-world luxury and high-tech performance, the bride wore a white dress—along with a parka. Visit white-desert.com.

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THE JEWELRY

BY LORRAINE D E PASQUE

from this day forward JEWELRY TO CHERISH FOR A LIFETIME.

When pop singer Ashlee Simpson got engaged to Diana Ross’ son last winter, Evan gave his bride-to-be a vintage-look platinum and gold ring of diamonds and rubies. The jeweler who made the ring said Ashlee’s fiancé “was looking for a unique ring that had everything: love, romance, beauty and character. And he didn’t want anything traditional.”

COMMITTING TO THE BAND When buying wedding bands, be sure to ask your jeweler to show you some wraps. The engagement ring and wedding band are designed to be worn together, as the band seamlessly wraps around the engagement ring shank, making the set dazzle like a single piece of jewelry.

“Another way to get that big diamond look is by buying one band with clusters of diamonds,” recommends Gizzi.

You can also get a smaller diamond set in the center of a

ENGAGING CUTS & COLOR

wider band.

If you, like Simpson, are looking for a style less traditional—even just a bit—there are many options. Sometimes the twist is in the styling, other times in the gems. “Diamond cushions, emeralds, radiants and Asschers are the hot cuts

making a big comeback,” says Amanda Gizzi of Jewelers of America.

Consider, too, alternatives to white diamonds.

According to the trend-watch website fashionwindows.com, “Women have been adding birthstones to their bridal rings. Also meaningful colors. Red gems are popular, as red signifies, to many, undying love, passion, energy and power.”

Speaking of color, have you thought about

DOWN THE AISLE, SPARKLING IN STYLE This passion for personalization extends to the jewels you’ll wear on your big day. Hair

yellow gold? As fashion channels the ’70s and

jewelry is back in a big way, so look at combs and tiaras, and also brooches that can clip

’80s this fall/winter, many bridal brands, too, travel

into the hair.

back to those decades, when rings were mainly precious yellow metal.

Gizzi adds, “Men are also opening up to the idea of ‘man-gagement’ rings, thanks to Johnny Depp. Again, there are no rules; any style or metal can be used.”

Be sure to consider ear cuffs and climbers: fashionable alternatives to simple studs or classic chandeliers. As a finishing touch to your perfect manicure—and bridal rings, of course–consider high-impact knuckle rings, delicate midi-rings and hand jewelry, with its slivers of precious metal and stones expanding across the hand.

Yes, today’s bridal jewelry can sometimes be funky. But with the help of your jeweler guiding you, it will always be fashionable. And above all: jewelry you can fall in love with.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF TACORI, HARRY KOTLAR (4), TACORI, SUTRA, IVANKA TRUMP, BRUMANI

and, this year, pears and marquises are also

Think of it as your

“I-SWEAR-I-LEFT-IT-

ON-THE-BEACH-TOWEL” policy.

THERE’S JEWELRY INSURANCE FOR THAT. Perfect Circle® Jewelry Insurance by Jewelers Mutual, protecting jewelry for over 100 years.

Call 888-884-2424 or visit PerfectCircleInsurance.com/HydePark.

exhibits

BRILLIANT Cartier in the 20th Century showcases some of the Maison’s most iconic styles.

Featuring 250 objects including jewelry, timepieces, men’s accessories and more, the exhibition illustrates the rich and glamorous history of Cartier.

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he Denver Art Museum (DAM) will be the sole venue worldwide for Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century, on view November 16, 2014 through March 15, 2015. Organized by the DAM and curated by Margaret Young-Sánchez, the museum’s Frederick and Jan Mayer curator, the exhibition will feature an assortment of jewelry, timepieces and precious objects produced between 1900 and 1975. The exhibition highlights Cartier’s rise to pre-eminence in the midst of historical events as it transformed itself into one of the world’s most prestigious names in jewelry, timepieces and objects. A special section focused on masculine items will offer a rare look at the pieces Cartier crafted especially for men, including the modern wristwatch.

“The evolution of Cartier takes us on a journey through 20th-century history, from the era of the last Czars in Russia to the Roaring ’20s in

America to the onset of Hollywood glamour as we know it,” says Christoph Heinrich, Frederick and Jan Mayer director of the DAM. “Focusing in on the creativity and pioneering vision of the Cartier brothers and their designers, visitors will walk away not only in awe of Cartier’s stunning works of art, but also aware of the drastic cultural shifts that took place throughout the history of the brand.”

In 1900, Paris-based jewelry firm Cartier was poised at the brink of a new era. The wealth of America’s Gilded Age mercantile and industrial magnates brought new energy to Europe’s cultural capitals. Numerous American heiresses married into the European aristocracy in the 1890s and early 1900s, and began to shop at the Cartier boutiques in Paris and London. By 1909, when Cartier opened its New York branch, Americans such as J. P. Morgan and the Vanderbilt family patronized Cartier, along with

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Russian aristocracy, Indian princes and King Edward VII of England. Over the course of the next seven decades, the company’s trend-setting designs and ability to capture the spirit of the times was key to its success.

Cartier’s glittering international clientele included royalty and aristocrats, business leaders and stars of the stage, cinema and music—a literal who’s who of the 20th century’s financial, industrial and cultural sectors. Cartier’s rise took place in the context of an increasingly cosmopolitan cultural scene and aligned with international social, political and economic trends. Brilliant will present a selection of themes that span time periods and styles to display the immense influence and innovation of the Maison.

“Cartier’s visually striking designs, impeccable workmanship and genius for innovative marketing made them the 20th century’s preferred purveyor of luxury goods,” Young-Sánchez explains. “The exhibition brings

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together a spectacular assortment of Cartier’s greatest works, characterized by the highest quality stones and materials, and a continually evolving yet always recognizable style. Highlighting the Maison’s handsome men’s items is a rare treat for visitors near and far.”

The immersive installation will be designed by Nathalie Crinière, exhibition designer for Yves Saint Laurent: The Retrospective. It will include a selection of original preparatory drawings alongside historic photographs and film clips, advertising materials and movie stills to provide insight into the evolving cultural setting of the time period represented and to tell the story of Cartier. In addition to items loaned by the Cartier Collection, the exhibition will include loans from museums and private collections in the United States and Europe. A fully illustrated publication accompanying the show will be available at The Shop at the Denver Art Museum.

designers

Changing Course

Erica Molinari is living the dream, though not her original dream… KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

I

t’s an unusual transition from Olympic athlete (luge and bobsled) to jewelry designer, but Erica Molinari is not your typical jewelry designer. As a child, she lived everywhere from the Ivory Coast to Birmingham, Michigan to Lake Placid, where she began training and racing. (“Three weeks into cross country I wanted to quit, but my parents wouldn’t let me,” she remembers. “From them, I learned the value of tenacity and drive.”)

At age 11, she was the youngest athlete in her field by a good nine years. “When I turned 12, I went to Europe and started on the circuit there. I competed in two winter Olympics: Calgary in ’88 and Albertsville in ’92, where I finished in the top 10. The dedication and focus so necessary to becoming an athlete are the same traits I apply to crafting jewelry,” she explains.

She met her entrepreneur husband Peter in 1992 and the two live in the West Village, not far from her NYC jewelry studio. After retiring from

‘‘Vitae et aoris vitae: live and love life!”

—from an Erica Molinari charm

sports competition in 1994 (she had acquired a few too many injuries) and still uncertain of her future direction, she nonetheless opted to stay in New York to figure it out. “I’ve always loved making things,” she explains, “canning, cooking, knitting, hand-crafting Christmas cards...

Peter suggested I take a jewelry-making class, so I enrolled in a bead workshop at The New School and was instantly hooked. Once I graduated to gold granulation (I studied with Cecelia Bauer), I knew I had found my calling. So I launched my own business, always hiring artisans who could teach me what I had yet to learn.

“What I love about jewelry is that you’re starting with a blank canvas so you can go anywhere with it,” she explains, adding that her favorite eras of inspiration are Byzantine and Renaissance. Her current collection is heavy on hand-carved double-sided charms in 14- and 18-karat gold as well as sterling: sometimes oxidized, sometimes with a gold frame. Many of her charms are spiritual in nature, incorporating Latin sayings like Sic Parvis Magna (greatness from small beginnings) and Amor est Vitai Essentia (love is the essence of life). Her design philosophy: “I like mixing gold with silver, large charms with small ones, delicate with chunky, in order to truly personalize the look.”

In her personal jewelry box are two favorite items: a large baroque pearl pendant from a very early collection (“the only one of my pieces I ever kept”) and delicate earrings with stone drops that she inherited from her grandmother. “I was the only girl so I got the jewelry,” she acknowledges with a wink, at the same time reinforcing the sentimental value of vintage fine jewelry. Pass it on!

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interiors

Prominently displayed near a stairwell in Coin’s home is a sculpture by French artist Arman.

“I had the precious chance to meet him and immediately loved his philosophy,” the designer explains.

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BLANK CANVAS

orn in Venice, Roberto Coin began his career in the hotel industry and spent the early part of his adult life studying management in Switzerland. At the age of 32, Coin set out on a new path to become a jewelry designer and felt the change of career called for a change of scenery.

“Vicenza became important when I joined the world of jewelry,” he explains. “I chose this city as it is and was a point of reference for gold manufacturing.”

The 10,000-sq.-ft. home Coin eventually purchased in 2000 was originally built in 1960 and in need of some serious renovations. With help from Venetian architect Enrico Novello, Coin designed much of the space himself and now spends about six months of the year there with his wife, Pilar, and their youngest son, Kevin. The family spends the rest of the time traveling or at their other home in nearby Venice.

Located in the hills just outside Vicenza city center, the neutral

Roberto Coin’s minimalist décor serves as a backdrop for creativity.

JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

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A custom picture window frames “a natural painting of Vicenza.”

structure is modern yet timeless, much like Coin’s extensive jewelry collection.

The home’s minimalist décor is almost entirely devoid of color, serving as a blank backdrop for inspiring Coin’s creative visions. “I wanted to recreate a kind of luxury hotel lounge, full of light,” he reveals. “We managed to create a unique mix of different styles while keeping the atmosphere light and simple. For example, we mixed modern furniture with pieces from the 7th century and Art Deco style with creations from Pierre Fernandez Arman, known as ‘the violins sculptor.’”

In the home’s sitting room, an expansive window hints at the gorgeous view beyond. “The house is full of important paintings and with that window I wanted to create a natural painting of Vicenza,” says Coin. “It is very relaxing watching outside

from that window… and you can also dream of being anywhere in the world.

Moreover, from there I can see the opposite hill, where my son’s house is.”

Despite the sitting room’s prime view, Coin reveals that his favorite room is in fact “my relax room; it is my own studio where I can smoke, read, watch TV and dream. My favorite item in the home is a special statue made by Wallace Chan, which he explained to me was the perfect statue representing my personality. It has many different heads and the biggest one is a child.”

Like the hidden ruby inside each of his designs (meant to bring luck, health and happiness to the wearer), there is more to Roberto Coin—and his home— than first meets the eye.

More of Coin’s extensive art collection is on display in the formal dining room.

Roberto Coin’s 10,000-sq.-ft. home in Vicenza, Italy.

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GPS HYBRID WAVE CEPTOR

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GRAVITYMASTER is equipped both to receive time-calibration signals by radio wave from any of the six transmission stations worldwide for use in precision time correction and to receive transmissions of position and time data from GPS satellites.

LED Light (Super Illuminator)

Fine Resin Frame Solar Powered

anniversaries

PASSING THE TIME

Patek Philippe celebrates 175 years at the pinnacle of fine watchmaking.

LAURIE KAHLE

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his year, Patek Philippe marks a milestone that few companies will ever achieve: its 175th anniversary. The revered Geneva watchmaker has operated without interruption since May 1, 1839, when it was founded by Antoine Norbert de Patek. He was joined by Adrien Philippe six years later. Today, it stands as the last familyowned independent watch manufacturer in Geneva under the auspices of the Stern family, which acquired the brand in 1932.

Thierry Stern, who represents the fourth generation of Sterns at the helm, has some surprises in store to commemorate the occasion, though he will reveal nothing until the brand unveils its 175th Anniversary collection in Geneva this fall. Stern’s love of musical minute repeaters and decorative métiers d’art offers some clues to what’s in store.

Expectations are high given that the 150th anniversary in 1989 saw the debut of the Calibre 89 pocket watch, hailed as the most complicated watch in the world with 33 complications. Stern recalls how the 150th anniversary collection, especially its minute repeater wristwatches, signaled a transformation for the brand. “Years later, I realized that anniversary marked a new beginning for complications,” he says. “Before that, such complications were normally for pocket watches. It was a celebration of a milestone, but it was also about a new movement and a new era.”

Stern, 43, has brought a more youthful perspective to Patek’s hallowed halls since he took over as president from his father Philippe five years ago. While Patek Philippe has maintained its traditional core values, Stern has expanded the use of steel to broaden the brand’s appeal to a younger audience. Women have also benefited with a range of complicated timepieces—including a splitseconds chronograph, minute repeater and perpetual calendar—and striking jeweled novelties, such as this year’s diamond-set Gondolo Ref. 7042/100R-001 with an Akoya pearl bracelet.

For men, the new steel version of the Ref. 5960/1A-001 Annual Calendar Chronograph makes a contemporary style statement with its white dial highlighted in black and red. And the Ref. 5990/1A001 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, powered by a new automatic movement, combines a chronograph with a practical dual time function.

“From Patek Philippe, people expect beauty, quality, accuracy, but also some surprise,” says Stern. “In my mind, there will be two lines: one with useful complications you need every day, while the other is more complicated—minute repeaters, tourbillons, split-second chronographs—which you may not need, but you enjoy the quality of them.

Those are really the pieces of art.”

1954

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HYDE PARK ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

FALL/WINTER 2014