Fink's

ACCEN T FALL/WINTER 2 01 2 THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEB RATION S

FALL FOR COLOR! Trends from the Red Carpet Spotlight on Guy Style PLUS: Holiday Gift Guide

oys ter perpe tual milg aus s

rolex

oyster perpetual and milgauss are trademarks.

DEAR CLIENTS AND FRIENDS, As the fall unfolds, we have a lot to celebrate at Fink’s Jewelers. Over the summer, our SouthPark store in Charlotte, North Carolina was the first Rolex retailer in the area to incorporate the latest contemporary European design. The new addition allows 170 timepieces to be displayed at any given time and elevates Fink’s Jewelers to the premiere Rolex dealer in Charlotte.

In late October, our newest location will open at North Hills shopping center in Raleigh, North Carolina. Located on Main Street facing the entry fountain, this beautifully remodeled store will feature the largest designer jewelry, timepiece and diamond selection in the area!

Mostly, we’re excited for you to see the newest collections from the industry’s leading fashion jewelry designers, like David Yurman, John Hardy, Roberto Coin, Ippolita and many, many more. Be sure to check out The Look beginning on page 10 for a sneak peek at a few of our favorite pieces for fall.

As 2012 draws to a close, I want to take the time to thank you for your business and wish you a happy and healthy holiday season.

Sincerely,

Marc Fink

Marc Fink, President and CEO

1

Contents fall/winter 2012

FINKS.COM

CHAIRMAN & CEO MARC FINK EVP & CFO WALT GAYNOR V P O P E R AT I O N S MARK BAIR V P I N F O R M AT I O N T E C H N O L O G I E S TODD STAFFORD DIRECTOR OF MARKETING LINDSEY KIRBY P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN DESIGN DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

28

PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI PRODUCTION MANAGER

50 Travel: It’s About Time

Welcome Letter

52 Spirits: Get the Skinny

4

Fink’s Family Profile: Elhussien Ahmed

54 End Page: Working It

6

Fink’s Family Profile: Mike Gordon

8

Around Town

1

10 The Look: Fall and Winter 2012 16 Accent Advisor 18 Timepieces: David Yurman 20 Guy Style: Express Yourself 22 Red Carpet: Standout Style 26 Tribute: Crafted with Love 40 Perfect Gems 42 Photography: Always in Fashion

PEG EADIE DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS HUGH K. STANTON PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO

BRIDAL SECTION 28 The Rings: New and Non-Traditional 32 The Traditions: Worldwide Weddings 36 The Details: Something Even Newer 38 The Stories: Wedding Day Magic

MAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012.

Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 10, Issue 2. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and

46 Interiors: Heavy Metals

Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

2

IMAGE COURTESY MEMOIRE

FEATURES

ELHUSSIEN AHMED Store Manager Tysons Corner, McLean, Virginia

Fink’s Family Profile

E

4

lhussien, manager at Fink’s Jewelers in Tysons Corner, considers each piece of fine jewelry to be a precious work of art. Spending most of his formative years in Alexandria, Egypt, his life was enriched with creative culture. His passion for craftsmanship and design led him to college in Cairo, where he graduated in 2001 with a degree in art education and began working as a jewelry designer.

Elhussien’s 11 years of experience in the jewelry industry proved to be a valuable asset to Fink’s Jewelers as we opened our new store in Tysons Corner in the spring of 2010. His passion for quality merchandise and dedication to unsurpassed customer service married well with the Fink’s Jewelers philosophy.

Because of this, he was promoted from a sales associate to assistant manager, and then to store manager within a year. Having worked for a “big box” jewelry store before, Elhussien felt more at home in the family-owned Fink’s Jewelers business. He says, “Every member of the Fink’s staff is treated like part of the family, and this translates to treating the customers as part of the family as well.”

He believes this is an advantage in the highly competitive market of Washington, D.C. “Customers appreciate the personal attention and service we can provide,” says Elhussien. “We offer the selection of a large metropolitan jeweler but with small-town personal service. It’s the best of both worlds!” he exclaims.

The Tysons Corner store is one of the strongest bridal stores in the company, and when you talk to Elhussien about diamonds, you understand why.

He says, “I enjoy showing loose diamonds the most. Just thinking of the ancient magical rock and how it enchants hearts and minds throughout time makes me enjoy educating customers about the beauty of a diamond.” In terms of creativity and craftsmanship, he appreciates the delicate designs of Marco Bicego most. “To me, Marco Bicego is a true artist,” he says. “He goes beyond traditional designs, and pulls inspiration from traveling around the world, experiencing new places and cultures.” Elhussien’s intricate knowledge of the creation of fine jewelry not only gives him an appreciation of the product, but also allows him to pass that along to his customers to ensure they make the perfect purchase.

Elhussien’s star has risen quickly at Fink’s Jewelers, and he accepts that praise with modesty, saying, “I credit my accomplishments to my family, who supports me and encourages me to continue seeking success.” Though Elhussien can almost always be found working, he still makes time to decompress from the high-speed retail lifestyle. “I take advantage of my free time to go to my studio and paint. Painting is my meditation,” he tells us. But what he treasures most is time spent with his wife and 20-month-old twin boys.

As Elhussien says, “Every moment is a precious one.”

Store Manager Stony Point Fashion Park, Richmond, Virginia

Fink’s Family Profile

MIKE GORDON

6

M

ike Gordon, manager of our Stony Point Fashion Park store in Richmond, Virginia, has been with Fink’s Jewelers for much of his professional career. Since joining the business in 1997, he’s been a true Fink’s ambassador, upholding the company standard for unsurpassed customer service. “Fink’s is a company that puts the customer first,” Mike comments. He also understands the benefit of working for a family-owned business, saying, “Being in direct contact with Mr. Fink gives me the flexibility to handle customer requests quickly and efficiently.” Mike also fosters this sense of family in his staff. He attributes his success to the team he leads at Stony Point Fashion Park. “I’m surrounded by such supportive, energetic and happy people.

Our clients see that and feel the camaraderie.”

When you talk to Mike about being on the sales floor, it’s easy to see his passion for the jewelry business. Diamonds are a big part of Fink’s Jewelers, and Mike isn’t immune to their romantic symbolism. “I enjoy selling diamonds the most,” he says. “There’s something special about helping a couple choose an engagement ring or anniversary band. You can see the love that goes into the purchase, and that’s a great thing to be a part of.” In addition to his sentimental side, he has no trouble stepping behind the watch counter and using his technical skills to sell a fine Swiss timepiece. “Owning a Swiss timepiece, such as a Rolex, is an investment,” he explains. “Watches are often passed down for generations, so it’s important to me that the customer finds the perfect fit.”

Mike’s years of experience combined with his sociable and friendly personality ensures every customer who visits his store leaves happy.

When he’s not helping customers in his store, Mike loves to spend time with his wife and two children. He’s also a big sports enthusiast and enjoys watching and playing most any sport. “I’m a HUGE Dallas Cowboys fan,” he says. Besides athletics, Mike has a real interest in history, specifically American history. When asked what he’d be doing if he didn’t work in the fine jewelry business he says, “I would most definitely be teaching high school history and coaching.” Mike’s passion for life, on and off the field, makes him a valuable part of the Fink’s Jewelers family.

AROUND TOWN

This Women & Wine event attendee was the lucky winner of a Fink’s gift card, presented by store manager Ike Savvas.

MacArthur Center store manager Dan Schaffer gets ready for take-off with Breitling in Switzerland!

Marketing director Lindsey Kirby tries a cushion cut diamond from Norman Silverman (approx. 27 carats!) at the Couture jewelry show in Las Vegas.

Fink’s in Greensboro is always happy to host Greensboro’s annual Women & Wine event.

Retired professional boxer and trainer Pernell Whitaker poses with MacArthur store manager Dan Schaffer in his hometown of Norfolk, VA.

The Fink’s corporate team in Las Vegas for the annual jewelry shows…they’re number 1!

8

Charlottesville store manager Rob Matthews poses with the winner of a Tag Heuer at the Boyd Tinsley Tennis Tournament.

Our Charlotte Diamond Dash winners ran over nine miles to earn the most points—a well-deserved win!

419 store manager Debbie Cochran visits the John Hardy compound in Bali, Indonesia and poses with John Hardy CEO Damien Dernoncourt.

Ecstatic Fredericksburg Diamond Dash winners show off their new Ritani diamond ring.

Our Valley View Mall location put on a beautiful display for a John Hardy Year of the Dragon event.

Our Streets at Southpoint store is decorated inside and out for John Hardy’s Year of the Dragon!

9

ACCENT(ADVISOR) OVER THE YEARS, MY HUSBAND HAS GIVEN ME MANY SMALL AND DELICATE PENDANTS THAT I SOMETIMES WEAR TO MAKE HIM HAPPY, BUT DON’T REALLY LOVE. ANY IDEAS? How about buying a beautiful gold link chain and creating a charm bracelet or necklace? Or combining a few of the smaller pendants into a more significant piece? Bring them into the store and we’ll be happy to work with you on designing something truly special that you’ll wear with pride and that you BOTH will love.

Yes! The intrinsic value of precious metal is always a good investment, particularly in a precarious economy.

In fact, a gold ring purchased 25 years ago is worth at least 10 times as much today. Gold is indestructible: it does not corrode or tarnish; all the gold that has ever been mined still exists. In addition, jewelry designers today are creating more spectacular works in gold than ever before. Next time you visit us, we’ll show you some truly irresistible investments—both financial and emotional!

I OFTEN HEAR TALK ABOUT “LAYERING” JEWELRY. BUT ISN’T ONE GREAT PIECE MORE IMPACTFUL THAN MANY LESSER PIECES? Depending on the outfit, one great piece is often the most dramatic way to wear jewelry, but mixing pieces (layering) is another good option, an expressive way to create looks that are more personal and uniquely you.

And these days, there are few rules. Yellow, white and rose gold can be combined in a single piece or worn at the same time in separate pieces. Modern and Deco-inspired styles can work hand in hand; colored gemstones can be mixed and matched according to your tastes, your personality, your mood of the moment. (Contrast colors are very “in” this season.) Spend some time experimenting with creative combinations and see what moves you. Often, an old piece worn differently can become a new favorite!

16

DO I NEED TO BUY MY WATCH FROM AN AUTHORIZED DEALER? Absolutely yes! Unfortunately, today there are plenty of decent-seeming knockoffs available on the internet and even in stores. Unless your dealer is authorized, you can never be sure what you’re buying, so when the time comes for repairs or your watch requires a replacement part, you could be out of luck. Why jeopardize your investment in such an important item, which is often not just a timepiece, but a treasured heirloom?

ERICA MOLINARI

IS THIS A GOOD TIME TO INVEST IN GOLD?

TIMEPIECES

When and why did David Yurman enter the timepiece business?

We entered the business in 1994 with the introduction of the Cable collection, a bracelet that ticks. In 2000 we launched the Thoroughbred collection, our first traditional watches, addressing what we saw as a void in the market. No one was doing iconic timepieces rooted in the tradition of fine Swiss watchmaking, but with an American design sensibility.

Is that what makes Yurman watches so special?

Yes. David Yurman is America’s only fine timepiece designer and to us, that in itself is special. The Yurman brand has always been inspired by American art and design and our timepiece collections adhere to this aesthetic. Each watch is treated like a piece of art, reflecting David Yurman’s casual sense of luxury and high standards of precision.

At the heart of our timepieces is our commitment to quality, design and innovation. From the Classic Ancestrale to the Revolution collection, each watch combines the precision of Swiss movements and manufacturing with sophisticated American design.

Tell us about your passion for classic cars and motorsports, and the launch of Shelby Revolution?

Cars have always been a passion of mine. I enjoy the mechanical nature of cars. They’re a lot like timepieces in that way—thousands of machined parts coming together to create one cohesive mechanical movement. The Shelby Revolution watch collection came about because Shelby is an iconic American brand and I wanted to celebrate their achievements and the mark they’ve left on American design.

EVAN YURMAN ON WATCHES, CARS AND PERSONAL FAVORITES.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

AMERICAN DESIGN

What are your best-selling watch styles at the moment?

The new Revolution collection has had an incredible response, both the automatic and the chronograph. We offer it in a number of variations, including a beautiful rose gold case. The Shelby, which is a limited edition within the Revolution collection, is extremely popular and is mostly reserved on pre-order.

What’s your personal favorite watch these days and why?

Recently, I’ve been wearing a steel chronograph Revolution with a bracelet.

It has a beautiful, clean aesthetic and I like the heft and feel of it. Plus it’s a sport watch, so I also appreciate its ruggedness.

“I enjoy the mechanical nature of cars.

They’re a lot like timepieces: thousands of machined parts coming together to create one cohesive mechanical movement.”

–Evan Yurman, Director of Design, Men’s and Timepieces, David Yurman

18

EVAN AND DAVID YURMAN

And your personal favorite car?

There are so many beautiful cars out there that it’s difficult to pick one, but my favorite genre is certainly American muscle. There’s an elegant simplicity to American muscle cars, both vintage and modern, that I find appealing. It’s that simple design that makes it so easy for owners to customize and improve them, and essentially express their own personalities.

VIRGINIA

(Toll Free 888.699.7464)

Roanoke 419 at Colonial Avenue..................................... 540.342.2991 Valley View Mall ............................................... 540.362.3779 Lynchburg 16960 Forest Road ............................................ 434.237.6301 Charlottesville Barracks Road Shopping Center........................ 434.284.4060 Richmond Chesterfield Towne Center ................................ 804.379.7171 Short Pump Town Center ................................. 804.377.8589 Stony Point Fashion Park .................................. 804.261.9371 Fredericksburg The Village at Spotsylvania Towne Centre......... 540.736.1290 Dulles Dulles Town Center .......................................... 571.434.6540 McLean Tysons Corner Center ....................................... 703.584.3101 Norfolk MacArthur Center ............................................ 757.640.1132

NORTH CAROLINA

(Toll Free 800.566.7464)

Greensboro 1951 Battleground Avenue................................ 336.292.8355 Charlotte Northlake Mall ................................................. 704.927.4888 SouthPark ......................................................... 704.366.3120 Raleigh Triangle Town Center ....................................... 919.792.2171 Opening October at North Hills Shopping Center!

Durham The Streets at Southpoint ................................. 919.281.8407

www.finks.com

GUY STYLE

EXPRESS YOURSELF! TEN GREAT WAYS FOR GUYS TO WEAR JEWELRY IN 2013. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

NOLET’S GIN

“HOW ELSE CAN A MAN REVEAL HIS TRUE PERSONALITY?”

20

STEPHEN WEBSTER; DAVID YURMAN

I

t’s no secret: Men’s jewelry is uptrending this season and more guys are wearing more interesting jewelry pieces than at any time since the 1960s. And that’s a good thing, according to women everywhere who have been begging their men to step it up a bit, fashion-wise. And what better way for a guy to express his personality than with jewelry, the perfect accent for uniform male attire, be it a navy suit, golf shirt with khakis, or jeans and a T-shirt.... While it’s no longer about bling, men’s jewelry today is creative in a subtle, sophisticated, artisan-inspired kind of way, making it just as appropriate with business and formal wear as it is with casual wear. So bring out your inner rock star and consider the following: Stacks of bracelets. Mixing materials like leathers, metals, interesting beads and colored stones creates a unique look that reflects personal style.

(We know a few corporate execs whose rolled up shirt sleeves reveal stacks of cool bracelets…)

Pendants, dog tags, necklaces of all kinds. These might include the proverbial “skull” motifs, religious symbols and “slices” of colored minerals (agates, geodes, etc.). There are even pendants made from dinosaur bone, tire treads and other unusual materials. Wear them on anything from a gold or silver chain to a beaded or leather cord.

A simple ID bracelet. Whether it’s yours, your dad’s or your partner’s, it’s sure to turn heads and sure to become a family heirloom.

A modern link bracelet. Maybe in a non-traditional metal like titanium or hammered sterling with a gunmetal finish (gold is good too!).

Cuff links. Have fun with them! Vintage designs like subway tokens, golf clubs and typewriter keys are always fun, but you can’t go wrong with sleek modern styling and/or anything personalized. (Young men are wearing French cuff shirts, even when they’re not wearing suits!)

A tie bar. Not for everyone, but this retro-inspired accessory adds a touch of hipster, especially worn with skinny ties.

The ring’s the thing! Wedding bands, commitment bands, anniversary, eternity, fraternity: nothing symbolizes devotion more emphatically than a band of gold (or platinum!). If it’s been awhile since your original wedding bands, you and your loved one might want to consider a more contemporary statement. (Even if you still have the same partner after all these years, your taste has likely evolved.)

A bold signet-type ring with a fabulous colored stone.

A fun watch. Something colorful, playful, not so serious. Something sporty, rugged or with complications. (Because life can be complicated…)

The quintessential classic dress watch. In gold of course. Because he deserves it. (And if not now, when?)

RED CARPET

Standout Style

WITH MEGAWATT SMILES AND FASHIONS TO MATCH, THESE STARS CAN’T HELP BUT CATCH YOUR EYE.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

P

ADRIEN BRODY

MARIA MENOUNOS

roof positive that socialite and reality TV personality Olivia Palermo deserves her reputation as a trendsetter. At Fabergé’s party in the Loft & Garden atop Rockefeller Center, her outfit was simple but stylish, featuring subtle nautical details perfectly

complemented by a large link necklace, pretty bangles and statement-making cocktail ring.

In a classic tuxedo and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak timepiece, Adrien Brody looks every bit the consummate gentleman. Over 150 guests joined the Academy Award-winning actor at a black tie gala in Milan to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the iconic watch design.

On the rooftop of New York City’s STK, Maria Menounos brought star power to the launch

22

GETTY FOR FABERGE; JACOPO RAULE/GETTY FOR AUDEMARS PIGUET; FINDYOURFACEMATE.COM

OLIVIA PALERMO

RED CARPET party for dating site findyourfacemate.com. Her stack of mixed-material bracelets was right on trend, while her dainty and delicate white gold necklace flashed a subtle show of sparkle to those lucky enough to get close.

Golden goddess Frida Pinto (with boyfriend Dev Patel at the world premiere of her film Black Gold in Qatar) chose bold bangles to play up the braided trim on her ethereal gown. The result: a look that’s both flowing and glowing.

DIANE KRUGER

JESSICA ALBA

As a juror at the 2012 Cannes Film Festival, Diane Kruger was expected to walk every red carpet...and she didn’t disappoint. This heavenly sheath was just one of many wow-worthy ensembles she chose. In order to let floral appliqués and feathers take the spotlight, Kruger accessorized simply with a sparkly clutch and vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece.

In a white hot curve-hugging dress and jewelry inspired by Princesse Grace de Monaco, actress Jessica Alba looked like royalty at a party hosted by Montblanc in Beijing.

24

SEAN GALLUP/GETTY; JAEGER-LECOULTRE; ANDREAS RENTZ/GETTY

FRIDA PINTO AND DEV PATEL

S ER EI N D I A MON D SER EI N D I A MON D T W O- T ON E

TRIBUTE

THE RADIANCE OF A BEAUTIFUL YOUNG WOMAN CAPTURED IN BEAUTIFUL JEWELRY.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

CRAFTED WITH LOVE

26

NOLET’S GIN

A

shining star in the jewelry industry and in life, Brooke Tivol McGrath died from a rare blood infection on January 11, 2011 at the age of 28.

A fourth-generation jeweler with a degree from Emory and GIA course work, Brooke had a sparkling personality and a fresh approach to the business. She had worked at her family’s jewelry store in Kansas City, then at Fabrikant and most recently at Carelle, where as director of marketing she did much to build the brand during her four-year tenure. “She was a breath of fresh air,” says Chana Regev, Carelle’s founder and designer, who started the company with a friend and $200, despite her father’s belief that women don’t belong in business. (Regev has a master’s degree in political science; her thesis was on terrorism and she had planned to work at the U.N.) “When I first met Brooke, we clicked right away: we were both strong women from fourth-generation family businesses. I was immediately impressed with her opinions and creative marketing ideas. She was never afraid to speak her mind and did much to build our brand from the moment she walked through the door. More importantly, everyone here loved her; she was the glue that kept us all together.”

In Brooke’s honor, Regev created the Brooke Leaf Collection, a grouping of gorgeous amethyst jewelry that supports the Carelle Scholarship for Design. “We hope to inspire future female jewelers to find passion and clarity in their own career paths,” she explains, adding that Brooke was the one who originally convinced her to join the Women’s Jewelry Association. A portion of proceeds from this newly expanded collection goes to the scholarship fund, a gesture that Regev is certain Brooke would have championed.

The collection is based on the Brooke Leaf Pendant, an 18 karat rose gold and diamond leaf motif featuring a Rose de France amethyst. The piece is inspired by Brooke, whose favorite earrings were Carelle’s Rose de France amethysts set in rose gold. The leaf motif is Carelle’s signature, representing the delicate balance of life.

The process of creating this collection involves numerous intricate steps and much skilled artisanship, all of which I witnessed in Carelle’s immaculate New York City workshop. Each pendant is based on a rendering, which is then turned into a model, handmade by a model maker.

It’s a long, labor-intensive process involving wax “trees” filled with special plaster that dries, hardens and goes into a furnace over night. These “trees” are eventually filled with gold that ultimately forms the components of the jewelry. The gold pieces are cut off the tree, then filed, cleaned and polished by artisans. They are then set with diamonds, polished again and custom-cut amethyst discs are added. The components are hand assembled using a laser to preclude heat damage.

Says Regev, “It’s a spectacular collection, but I think its real beauty derives from the love that our 50 artisans felt for Brooke: they truly adored her and it shows in their work!”

WEDDINGS

STORY PHOTOGRAPHERS

A SPECIAL BRIDAL SECTION FROM ACCENT MAGAZINE

THE RINGS

BY LAURIE SCHECHTER

NEW AND NON-TRADITIONAL UNIQUE OPTIONS ABOUND TO SUIT EVERY COUPLE’S TASTE.

ince engagement and wedding rings are choices you live with forever, it’s no wonder that current bridal ring trends reflect the individual style and personality of their wearers more than a strict tradition or a certain set of rules. In fact, non-traditional is the new trend! One has only to look to recent famous weddings and engagements for proof: think Angelina Jolie’s custom-designed engagement ring of graduated tablet-shaped diamonds, or the new Mrs. Mark Zuckerberg and Jessica Simpson, both showing off ruby engagement rings.

Many of today’s rings are rooted in history. The giving of rings along with taking vows of marriage dates back to ancient times. The wedding band, fashioned into a circle, symbolizes never-ending immortal love, and

the finger it is worn on was thought to have a special vein connected directly to the heart. Both customs are said to have originated in Ancient Egypt.

The forerunner to the modern-day engagement ring was the ancient Greeks’ betrothal rings. Early betrothal rings from the Middle Ages, called ‘‘posy’’ rings, were inscribed with poems and love notes. Engagement rings with diamonds were first given by royalty and nobles beginning in the 15th century, mixed with rubies in the 17th and 18th centuries, and had messages spelled out in colored stones in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Today’s betrothed have all this history to mine, with the benefit of modernity found in unusual designs and wide range of metals, stones and shapes available.

In actuality, the halo has never really gone away, but it has been trending more strongly for the past few years, which aligns with the reigning popularity of round diamond cuts. The difference now is the variety of designs available, and the cuts and arrangement of the stones. Double halos with two rows of surrounding stones, three-stone rings (a descendent of the early 20th-century princess ring) incorporating halo diamonds, and the stilltrending-strong eternity wedding bands with halo diamonds are all turns on the halo’s road to success. A. Jaffe reports, ‘‘Styles with cushion shaped halos surrounding the center diamond, as well as a cushion cut diamond standing alone in the center setting, are very popular engagement rings.

Matching halo earrings and pendants for the bride have also become increasingly popular.’’

2.RESPONSIBLY SOURCED

Choosing diamonds that are sourced in an ethical manner is increasingly important among socially conscious brides. Without question, all the stones we sell in our store are responsibly sourced. Forevermark is among those that guarantee diamonds are carefully selected to meet “high standards of business, social and environmental integrity" (less than 1% of the world's diamonds are eligible to become a Forevermark diamond).

Along with this heightened consciousness is the popularity of “recycling” diamonds: wearing vintage or heritage rings, family heirlooms which can be adapted and updated for a fresh look.

3.COLOR MY WORLD

Color seems to be the biggest driver at retail today. It’s the big story for women’s and men’s fashion on the runways and in the stores. Today’s bride, to set herself apart, might even opt for color instead of traditional white for her wedding dress. And color is, of course, also a big trend in engagement rings. Beautiful colored diamonds and other colored gemstones are surging in popularity in no small part due to the Duchess of Cambridge’s (previously Princess Diana’s) gorgeous sapphire engagement ring.

A C C E N T

28

B R I D A L

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FOREVERMARK, FOREVERMARK, SCOTT KAY, A. JAFFE, BEAUDRY

1.RETURN OF THE HALO

The Norman Silverman Bridal Collection

The Stimulus Available at:

The Response

TRENDS FOR SAME-SEX COUPLES

4.I’LL TAKE MINE

According to recent stats, there are currently around 50,000 samesex marriages in the United States. This number will continue to grow, and many brands are tailoring their designs to appeal to the emerging market. Of course, since same-sex marriages are grounded in the same traditions as conventional marriages, many of these design trends cross over to the mainstream.

WITH A TWIST

You can’t get much more non-traditional and unique than a twisted band engagement ring. It’s an individual statement with a modern spin that can quickly update the classic solitaire or take pavé in a new direction. In streamlined metal or an all-diamond band, it’s an attention grabber either way.

5.WIDEN

YOUR HORIZONS

Wide diamond bands and channel rings—where the band can be any width with diamonds filling the “channel” in the center—are trending as wedding bands and, in some cases, can even serve as both the engagement and wedding ring. With the high-powered real estate it occupies on the finger, it’s a glamorous and practical all-in-one statement.

6. MIXING IT UP

Using alternative metals and mixing metals are trends, and the unique options available have increased at an exponential rate. In both engagement rings and women’s wedding bands, there’s been a strong introduction of rose gold on its own or mixed with white gold, platinum or yellow gold. In men’s wedding bands, in addition to the classic yellow gold, white gold and platinum, there are many examples of alternate metals and materials: everything from palladium, tungsten carbide and cobalt to ceramic, titanium and seranite, all with two-tone as a leading direction.

A C C E N T

30

WEDDING BANDS AND COMMITMENT RINGS Like the alternative lifestyle they represent, same-sex couples are choosing alternatives for their wedding bands. In traditional yellow or white gold, there might be some kind of unique treatment, like hammered details, on the band. But rings in less common metals are where personal statements can really stand out, especially for men.

BioBlu27 Cobalt, the same material used in aerospace and medical applications, has a unique look and is available with diamonds or without.

And with new ring styles come new traditions. Some women are foregoing engagement rings altogether, while men can opt for man-gagement rings: wedding bands worn on the right hand before the marriage, then transferred to the left during the wedding ceremony (a mini-trend in opposite sex relationships, as well).

At the end of the day, says Dan Scott, CMO of Scott Kay, ‘‘Love is love. We need to remind ourselves that wedding bands are much more than jewelry; wedding bands embody precious, lifelong vows made between any two people in love." And no matter the sexual orientation, today’s couples are choosing rings that suit their personal style.

B R I D A L

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MEMOIRE, SCOTT KAY, RITANI, ROBERTO COIN, SCOTT KAY, ROBERTO COIN CENTO, MEMOIRE, RITANI, MEMOIRE

VINTAGE AND VINTAGE-LOOK ENGAGEMENT RINGS Some women in same-sex marriages are opting for customary engagement and wedding rings, but with more of a personal statement. Perhaps because of the sentimental value that they hold, vintage and vintage-look rings bring to mind the sentiments behind a marriage itself. (Christine Quinn, New York City’s City Council Speaker, married using her fiancée’s mother’s engagement ring.) Vintageinspired is also becoming a coveted look in new rings.

Pavé-set diamonds, intricate hand engraving, filigree work and halos are all details reflecting this movement.

THE TRADITIONS

BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

Worldwide Weddings

INDIA TOURISM OFFICE, NY

BIG-DAY CUSTOMS FROM CENTURIES-OLD CULTURES.

lthough American-style weddings have gained popularity throughout the world, many countries retain their own colorful wedding traditions. These customs can vary from region to region and according to local religious traditions, but it’s interesting to note that almost all cultures have some version of “tying the knot.” A current trend in the U.S. is to research one’s family heritage and incorporate some of the noteworthy elements into a Western-style ceremony, or to replicate a traditional wedding outright. Here are a few highlights from centuries of tradition around the globe.

Hindu woman is married involve jewelry: Mangalsutra: black and gold beaded necklace with a gold or diamond pendant. The groom ties it around the bride’s neck during the ceremony; it’s comparable to a Western-style wedding ring. Bangles: gold and glass, often studded with precious and semi-precious stones such as diamonds, gems and pearls; mandatory, signifying long life for the husband. Armlets: encrusted with jewels or hanging crystals.

Bichiya: toe rings worn as a symbol of the married state along with Anklets on both feet. Mang Tika: gold pendant adorned with jewels that hangs in the middle of the forehead. Nose Ring: an essential In many cultures, before the INDIA gold accessory in the left nostril. Rani Haar: gold wedding, the women gather Indian weddings are planned in accordance with filigree necklace with precious stones symbolizing at the bride’s house for a age-old customs and are known to be some of the prosperity. Earrings and Jhoomar: a piece of henna party with singing most beautiful and lavish. Weddings usually last five jewelry with gems worn on the side of the head; and dancing. The bride’s hands and feet are covered days with a number of rituals before, during and matches the design of the rani haar necklace. Waist with beautiful after the ceremony. The bride is adorned with lots of Band: like a necklace around the belly studded with henna designs. gold jewelry to symbolize wealth (a wearable “savings precious or semi-precious stones. Rings: worn on both account”) and purity. The gold given to the bride by her hands, attached to a bracelet by a central medallion. family, which they often start acquiring as soon as she’s born, contributes These are the most important aspects of a Hindu wedding ceremony: to her own “independent” wealth. Many of the symbols that indicate a Mangalfera: The couple walks around the sacred fire four times,

DID YOU KNOW?

A C C E N T

32

B R I D A L

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Carat Weight 1.53

Color Grade E

Clarity Grade VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621

Natural Diamond Not Synthetic

A GIA report is certainty from the source.

As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System™, GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientific.

A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who offer them. www.4cs.gia.edu

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

PRICELESS INSIGHT MARC FINK knows jewelry from the inside, out.

T

hree things a jeweler can’t do without Knowledgeable staff. Commitment to customer service. Quality merchandise.

How did you get into the business?

I’m 3rd generation in the family business. Fink’s Jewelers has been a big part of my life since I can remember.

My first job (age 9) was polishing the silver flatware.

Why is a GIA report so important?

GIA has set the grading standard for diamonds across the whole world. They are nonprofit and truly independent in the evaluation of a diamond.

All-time favorite piece of jewelry?

My wife’s engagement ring. It was hand selected by a legend in the jewelry industry--William Goldberg.

Insider’s tip?

There’s a lot of information out there--some good, some bad. A consummate jewelry professional and a knowledgeable jeweler will always make your purchase a more confident one.

Most valuable lesson learned at work?

The harder you work, the luckier you get. If you are an honest, caring and genuine person, you will be successful.

Best source for diamond know-how?

4cs.gia.edu. Not only to explain what to look for in a diamond, it’s information jewelers use themselves.

What should a customer always look for?

Honesty and integrity. With so much information out there, a good jeweler helps their customers interpret the information and understand the gem-buying process.

Nothing can replace face-to-face contact when making an important jewelry purchase.

stopping to touch a stone in the path with their toes to symbolize obstacles in life that they’ll overcome together. The four rounds signify: Dharma, righteousness; Artha, monetary accomplishment; Kama, energy and passion; Moksha, liberation from everything in life.

Saptapadi: After the groom's scarf has been tied to the bride's dress signifying they’ll always stay together, the couple takes seven steps around the sacred fire representing nourishment, strength, prosperity, happiness, progeny, long life and marital harmony. The marriage is then considered legalized according to the Hindu Marriage Act as well as traditional customs.

MEXICO

have a Scottish surname, there’s a good chance you have a corresponding family tartan, so the men in your wedding party can all sport kilts.

Bagpipes are appropriate music as is dancing the Lang Reel.

Other Scottish wedding traditions vary by region: In the Borders, a sprig of heather in the bridal bouquet brings luck.

In Aberdeen, Grampian, Angus and Dundee, luck comes with a sixpence in the bride’s shoe. And for financial luck, the bride’s father throws a handful of coins for the children to “scramble.” In the northeast, the best man gifts the happy couple with a clock, while the maid of honor gives them a tea set. In Shetland, wedding celebrations continue for two days with dancing and drinking. It’s said that “tying the knot” comes from an ancient Celtic practice with roots in pagan rituals. The bride and groom rip their wedding tartans and tie two strips together to symbolize the unity of the two families.

“I once read that watching a traditional Mexican boda is like studying the history of the country over the past seven centuries. Rituals and traditions from the Spanish, Aztec, Native American and AngloAmerican cultures are all incorporated into the ceremony,” says Carmen Laborin of the Mexico Tourism Board.

Many Mexican wedding processions are accompanied by a JAPAN mariachi band and a donkey carrying bottles of It’s believed that the wedding tequila and wine for toasts along the way.

Traditional Shinto wedding ceremonies are held ring originated in ancient Egypt Mexican brides have several vestido de novia at shrines. Brides wear shiromuku (formal white about 4,800 years ago. The ring’s (wedding dress) options depending on their kimono) and grooms wear montsuki (formal circlular shape was said to region and personal taste: everything from black kimono). The bride gets a ring and nine represent eternity, eternal love and a Western-style fancy white dress to a lucky gifts for happiness. It's common that only devotion. Rings were placed on the third finger of the left hand because beautifully embroidered, simple cotton huipil family members and close relatives attend. ancient Egyptians believed to an elaborately embroidered velvet dress or A Shinto priest offers prayers to the deities that it contained a vein one made from the local textiles with and the ceremony begins by purifying the couple. (vena amoris) that symbolic designs.

After the purification and vows, the bride and groom led to the heart.

Las Arras: In an ancient tradition, during the exchange cups ceremony, the groom gives the bride 13 gold coins of sake (rice wine) representing Jesus and the 12 apostles, which symbolizes the groom’s in the sansan-kudo (threecommitment to support his wife throughout their life together; her times-three) ceremony acceptance is a promise to take care of him. The bride also receives an symbolizing their union and ornate box for the coins’ safekeeping. the uniting of their families.

El Lazo: The lasso is a beaded or jeweled rope or ribbon tied around Finally, symbolic offerings of the couple in a figure eight as they exchange their vows, signifying their sakaki (tree sprigs) are given to eternal bond and unity. Once the service is over, it’s removed. The the Kamisama (deity). During ceremony is followed by a parade with mariachi music and a reception that the kekkon hiroen (reception), lasts ’til the wee hours of morning with eating, drinking and dancing. the bride changes clothes several times, a tradition SCOTLAND dating to the 14th century, Today, at most Scottish weddings, the groom, his best man and the signifying her readiness to groomsmen are kitted out Highland-style in matching tartans. If you return to everyday life.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JORGE TINAJERO; JOYCE YOUNG OF TARTAN SPIRIT; YASUFUMI NISHI COURTESY JNTO

DID YOU KNOW?

A C C E N T

35

B R I D A L

T H E D E TA I L S

BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI

Something Even Newer AS TIME MOVES FORWARD, SO DOES OUR DESIRE TO RE-INVENT OLD TRADITIONS.

It’s a ritual dating back to the Victorian era that’s meant to bring luck to newlyweds: on her wedding day, the bride carries or wears something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue. Here, a few ideas for the modern bride who wants to honor this age-old custom with a fresh, updated twist.

SOMETHING OLD • Think out of the box. Your ‘somethings’ can be places or decorations instead of worn items. One example: hold your wedding at a historic site.

• Display old photos of ancestors (extra points if taken on their wedding days) at your ceremony and/or reception. It’s heartfelt and gives your guests an insight into your family history.

• Wear lace or a button from a family member’s wedding dress in your hair, or incorporate it into your bouquet.

• Have your ring bearer carry the rings in a treasured heirloom instead of on the standard satin

book table. It will elicit good memories of shared family meals and togetherness.

• Give your grandmother’s crystal candleholders or vase a vacation from the curio cabinet with a place of honor at your ceremony.

• Borrow a pretty silver knife from a friend or family member and use it to cut the cake.

• Set your sweetheart table with heirloom china and silver, to make your first meal as husband and wife even more special.

• If your parents are sentimental, they probably still have their wedding cake topper. Get it out of that dusty box in the garage and give it another go.

SOMETHING BLUE our bouquet Embellish y a family dress. m o with lace fr

SOMETHING BORROWED • Borrow a family tablecloth to dress up the escort card or guest

A C C E N T

36

• Incorporate a beautiful blue stone or side stones into your wedding band. Sapphire, blue topaz, tanzanite and aquamarine are all excellent choices.

• Why not wear a pair of strappy blue evening shoes? They’ll be a fun flash of color beneath your dress.

• Getting rid of wedding cake guilt

B R I D A L

Something b and yummy lue... too! is easy: decorate it with delicious fresh blueberries and meet your daily fruit quota!

• When you go for your wedding day pedicure, choose a pretty pale blue. Or how about a strip of blue to replace the white on a French manicure?

• Use a small blue clutch for your lipstick, cell phone and other wedding day necessities.

• Signature drinks are always fun.

Why not use Blue Curaçao to concoct your custom cocktail?

• Splurge on luxurious blue lingerie for your wedding night.

SOMETHING NEW

• A brand new piece of jewelry, of course! You’ll be investing in an heirloom that will have special meaning for the next generation of your family.

CANDLESTICKS: 1STDIBS.COM; CAKE: FANTASY FROSTINGS, SOUTH PASADENA, CA

Above: Sterling Silver Floral Stemmed Pair Candlesticks ca. 1943, USA

pillow. A jewelry box from a beloved family member could also hold a flower girl’s petals.

• Instead of wearing heirloom jewelry in its intended manner, pin or sew it onto your gown as a featured design element.

• Find an alternative use for your mother’s or grandmother’s veil.

Use it to wrap your bouquet or drape it over a photo display table.

THE STORIES

BY MICHAL D I MICELI

Wedding Day Magic

PHOTO BY GREG WOOD PHOTOGRAPHY

A GREAT-GRANDMOTHER VISITS A NEW BRIDE…

had always wanted a vintage wedding, and my dream came true on Saturday, June 9th, 2012 when I wed the man of my dreams in Madison, Connecticut. We worked hard to get all the details right, but I swear it was a few pieces of jewelry from my beloved late great-grandmother that made the day magical.

My dress was a magnificent 1960s lace gown I discovered at my local consignment shop. It had puffy shoulders and a high collar, but I saw the potential and had it tailored into a sleeveless mermaid shape. The veil was the original, also from the ’60s, and the engagement and wedding rings were English platinum dating from the early 1900s.

The ceremony and reception were held at the beautiful Madison Beach Club, which dates back to the 1920s. My family and I have spent many happy times there, so it was a delight to share it with 140 people I adore. We collected old mason jars to use as flower vases, and I decorated the reception with family wedding photos going back three generations.

Everything was in place for my vintage theme, but the most important element was surely the influence of my great-grandmother, Mama Crowley. As a kid, I’d spend hours sitting with Mama. She was confined to her bed, but always looked elegant in her silk and lace robe, with her pink high-heel slippers waiting on the floor. I can’t remember now what we talked about, but I do remember loving to be in her presence and arranging all of her glass figurines and miniature Limoges shoes (a wonderful collection I now own).

B R I D A L

38

Mama Crowley loved family, loved to travel and always looked stylish. She believed in living life fully and with passion...and that you might as well look beautiful while you’re doing it! I learned so much from her, and I know that she shaped the woman I am today. Although we lost her almost 30 years ago, I’ve felt her presence throughout my life, never more so than on my wedding day. My lovely grandmother Joan is convinced that her mother (Mama Crowley) sent me Joe. He is everything I could have asked for in a life partner, and exactly who my great-grandmother would have chosen for me.

The weather on the morning of June 9th was a little iffy, so my hairstylist (of all people) suggested that I leave rosary beads facing outside to guarantee sunshine. It just so happens that I had packed Mama Crowley’s rosary beads at the last minute, so my mother dutifully hung them from the balcony of my hotel room. The weather continued to be touch-and-go for a while, but the minute I took my first step down the aisle, Mama cleared the skies and the weather stayed gorgeous for the remainder of the day. (I should mention that Mama was a novice nun before she married, so I’m sure she had some pull…)

Not only did Mama’s rosary beads work their magic on my big day, but I also wore her gold and pearl drop earrings and her pearl and sapphire gold bracelet, connecting me physically, emotionally and spiritually to this amazing lady. I look forward to passing on the love, traditions and family heirlooms to my future family.

S E C T I O N

PerfectGems

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.

CHRIS LEE

SLH

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

UPSTAGED

Renée Fleming, the Simon Bolivar Symphony Orchestra of Venezuela, and the New York Pops are just a few of the artists performing at Carnegie Hall this season. You could buy tickets, but to really be involved in these remarkable occasions, join the Patrons. You’ll have access to rehearsals and meet-the-artist cocktail parties, a ticket concierge to arrange for special seating requests, and the very glamorous Opening Night Gala. In addition, Patrons are offered one of the most fascinating insider experiences in New York City: while telling stories and sharing his extraordinary knowledge, Carnegie Hall archivist Gino Francesconi escorts Patrons on a private tour up, down and all around, including visits to the Maestros’ Suite and other fascinating parts of the historic hall. Chances are this excursion will end on a high note.

TRUFFLE TIME!

Every autumn, New York’s famed SD26 offers white truffles gathered in the Piedmont region of Italy. To celebrate the arrival of these delicacies, the restaurant presents a special menu (through December). Marisa May, who owns and runs SD26 with her father, Tony May, has a favorite among the elaborate dishes: uovo in raviolo con burro tartufato.

Created by Nino Bergese (personal chef to the last king of Italy) and now prepared by SD26 chef Matteo Bergamini, a single, large raviolo is stuffed with a barely cooked egg whose yolk spills forth into a sauce of brown butter, all under a mantle of white truffles. SD26’s wine director, Michael Doctor, pairs this treat with a Barolo, La Corda della Briccolina, Batasiolo 1995. Ms. May ha gusto bella.

40

by

PHOTOGRAPHY

ALWAYS IN FASHION

THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK. © 2012 CINDY SHERMAN.

CELEBRATED ARTIST CINDY SHERMAN GOES INCOGNITO. BY DAVID HOWLETT

All of the photographs in Sherman’s MoMA show are untitled. As in a children’s picture book with no text, the viewer has to supply his or her own narrative. The scenarios require some thought to decipher; men and women or people from different backgrounds may see two different stories.

Following the “film stills,” Sherman produced a series of “centerfolds,” in which she appears sprawled on a sofa or stretched on a floor—but fully clothed. In Untitled #96, she wears an orange plaid ensemble and looks

42

Above: Sherman appears four times in a Balenciaga dress for a gala event. Untitled #463. 2007-08. Chromogenic color print, 68 5/8” x 6 (174.2 x 182.9 cm). Courtesy the artist and Metro Pictures, New York © 2012 Cindy Sherman.

NOLET’S GIN

E

ven though she’s one of the most photographed women in America, you probably wouldn’t recognize Cindy Sherman if you saw her on the street. That’s because Sherman has built a career—the subject of a superb and exciting retrospective at New York’s Museum of Modern Art— of photographing herself in a wide variety of disguises.

In the late-’70s, Sherman first made a splash with her series of untitled “film stills.” The black-and-white photos show a woman in a scene from a movie that could have been directed by Alfred Hitchcock. But the stills are not from real movies. Instead they come from Sherman’s imagination. She appears as a character about to discover a clue to a crime, or looking over her shoulder, suddenly certain she’s being followed.

A

From top left: “I know a lot of people in the entertainment business.” Untitled #474. 2008. Chromogenic color print, 7’ 6 3/4” x 60”(230.5 x 152.4 cm). “On her first trip to the big city, our heroine suspects she is being followed.” Untitled Film Still #21. 1978. Gelatin silver print, 7 1/2 x 9 1/2”(19.1 x 24.1 cm). “Will I ever find true love?”

An image from Sherman’s centerfold series. Untitled #96. 1981.

Chromogenic color print, 24 x 47 15/16 (61 x 121.9 cm). high fashion itself. One photo shows four young women (all Cindy Sherman, of course) at what could be a party for a gallery opening or fashion show.

Identically dressed and holding red plastic drink cups, they display a sort of forced gaiety, with toothy smiles and expressions of excitement. The photo was commissioned by Vogue Paris, and Sherman wears a Balenciaga dress.

We are free to think what we want, but it seems that Sherman is critiquing the fashion scene and the red carpet mentality it fosters.

In another picture, we see a wealthy, middle-aged woman in a sequined couture dress. She has on tasteful gold jewelry and stands in front of a display of what might be celebrity publicity shots. Perhaps the pictures are of an earlier generation, but this woman is a survivor. She is confident, comfortable and famous. And she is Cindy Sherman.

This exhibition travels to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (July 14 to Oct. 7, 2012), Walker Art Center, Minneapolis (Nov. 10, 2012 to Feb. 17, 2013) and Dallas Museum of Art (March 17 to June 9, 2013).

44

THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK. © 2012 CINDY SHERMAN.

languidly into the distance.

The character clutches a newspaper clipping that has advertisements for “singles,” suggesting a failed romance.

The pose, perhaps based loosely on a Playboy spread, makes us ask whether a clothed woman is not more interesting by far than a naked one. In Sherman’s photos, the body parts are hidden but her characters’ souls are exposed.

In the late-’80s, Sherman posed herself in the guise of famous portraits from art history.

In elaborate costumes, she is a nursing Renaissance Madonna or a bald (male) Italian aristocrat.

She seems to suggest that photography is a serious rival to the art of painting.

Sherman is not a narcissist, concerned only with her own image. She started photographing herself simply because no model was willing to sit for the six hours she needs to make a single picture. Sherman performs every role herself: model, wardrober, hairdresser, photographer, a fact that helps make sense of the varied disguises in the pictures. Perhaps Sherman is commenting on the different roles we all play as we live our lives: worker, daughter, mother and so forth. In each role we behave—and appear—differently. trip through this exhibit also shows the way the science of photography has evolved over recent decades. In the ’70s, Sherman took 23 small pictures of herself against a white curtain in the style of a photo booth. In them, she progressively changes from a woman with glasses (we would guess Sherman as herself) to a Geisha, and finally a film star. These are simple black-and-white photos made from contact prints.

In her recent “society” portraits, Sherman poses in front of a green screen so that she can later fill in whatever background she wants (in several cases, The Cloisters museum in New York). She also uses Photoshop to move her eyes closer together, to make herself look older, or to appear heavier. Sherman has mastered the modern techniques and one suspects she will continue to use all the latest special effects.

A key to understanding Sherman’s relationship to fashion is buried in a side room in the middle of her MoMA show. A stop-action movie she made in the ‘70s shows Sherman as a cut-out paper doll in her underwear. The doll selects paper clothes to try on, and admires herself. Essentially, this is Sherman playing dress-up, something she has done with great success for the last 35 years.

More recently, Sherman seems to have been examining the world of

INTERIORS

HEAVY METALS

F

urniture designer Sylvan Fiss had a wonderfully whimsical idea while watching a show about gemstones on the Discovery Channel.

Inspired by the other-worldly geometric forms, the Indonesia-based designer conceived his innovative Popova writing desk in the shape of a meteor-sized gem. So impressed was he with the result, Fiss also translated the radiant design (with an $8,600 price tag to match) into a coordinating metallic Popova coffee table. Both pieces are now part of the collection for Scala Luxury, the Los Angeles-based dealer of upscale home furnishings.

Lorin Marsh was thinking less about gemstones than where to store them when he came up with the company’s new Jewel Box ottoman, formed in the shape of...you guessed it...a jewel box, upholstered in metallic gold with polished nickel trim. Then there’s designer Gary Hutton’s shapely

bronze and stainless steel Facet and Grand Facet cocktail tables, small enough to hold a single cocktail and named for the thousands of multifaceted Swarovski crystals that cover the surface. “I found a woman who worked for handbag designer Judith Lieber, who sets those stones—7,000 in all—one at a time with a pair of tweezers,” says the San Francisco-based Hutton, who works exclusively in stainless steel and bronze. The tables range from $4,200 to $14,000.

Much like Dutch designer Marcel Wanders’ idea a few years back to turn a hulk of plastic into colorful Stone barstools cut like chunks of tourmaline,

46

Clockwise from top left: Scala Luxury Truffle Trunk table; Christopher Guy Feather mirror; Ktribe by Philippe Starck metal table lamp; Lorin Marsh Diamond credenza

NOLET’S GIN

COOL METALLIC FINISHES ADD WARMTH TO ANY HOME. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

topaz and diamonds, furniture makers are now turning heavy metals— sterling silver, gold, nickel, bronze and even wrought iron and stainless steel—into their own beautiful little jewels for the home. In particular, brooches on steroids seem to be a compelling source of inspiration to today’s metal workers. That would no doubt please the late designer Robert Hutchinson, who often equated mirrors with brooches and freely complimented those who translated them well. Today the “brooch effect” can be found on everything from mirrors and headboards to table lamps. ake for example the work of luxury furniture maker Christopher Guy, who had French designer Coco Chanel in mind when he presented his new Mademoiselle collection of furnishings and accessories, inspired by the Paris apartment of the influential couturier.

Among the offering straight from the designer’s jewelry box was a gold and black balled mirror resembling a strand of Chanel’s famous pearls, another gold metal feather-framed mirror, reminiscent of a brooch or hat pin, and an upholstered chair with a golden fan-shaped back. “The fan-back chair is Coco’s successor’s trademark accessory,” says the designer, referring to the fan-waving Karl Lagerfeld, who has reigned over the house of Chanel since 1983.

Heather Palmer was clearly channeling the work of another French designer, jewelry maker Jean Schlumberger, when the San Francisco-based glass artist conceived her $3,800 blue Sea Fan ceiling light fixture for Bespoke Global, the Southampton, New York atelier fostering the designs of artisan craftsmen from around the world.

Looking at the polished nickel and glittering coral-shaped glass sconce, it’s easy to imagine Palmer poring over the early 20th-century French jewelry designer’s colorful pins and brooches in an effort to capture their translucent forms and intricate detailing. Meanwhile, if you didn’t know otherwise, you might swear Scala Luxury’s nickelplated brass Jewel Specimen mirror with its starburst shape and colorful goatskin panels set to look like precious gems was a jeweled family heirloom passed down through the generations.

“I was always fascinated by the cuts of gemstones, the framing and mounting around jewels and the color coordination,” says designer Sylvan Fiss, who translated the mirror after a piece of jewelry he gifted to his wife. “I used the gemstone cut on several furniture

T

From top: John Lyle Turtle table; Gary Hutton A-5 cube tables; Christopher Guy Fan chair pieces that I made for Scala Luxury, but for the Jewel Specimen mirror I had to integrate some colors and didn’t want to deal with any jewels or stones.

Instead I used goatskin that I dyed in different colors, such as eggplant, charcoal gray, celadon green and lapis blue, and finished it in a high gloss polished finish, which really created a fascinating look.” Additional pieces in the collection include the Truffle Trunk gold leaf side table, which looks more like a sand-cast gold bracelet than a functional cocktail table, and the Hedge Stone table, made of meteor-sized brass.

“I’ve always said there are only two kinds of people in the world: those who love sparkly things and those who won’t admit it,” says San Francisco-based designer Gary Hutton, whose jewel-like designs include a stainless steel or bronze Ver mirror featuring spikes of Swarovski pearls fanning out like a sunburst. “It’s a take on Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer’s painting Girl with a Pearl Earring,” he says.

Look closely at that home you call your jewel box, adds Hutton. These days it might actually be furnished like one.

Of course, there was a time when most people equated metal designs with the stark cold interiors of the 1970s, or with the modern trappings of a museum. But the chill factor is only an illusion, most designers agree. Rather than mere shiny distractions, theses pieces actually reflect the warmth of the other furnishings that surround them. “With my new Inox New York collection I’ve moved into mirror-polished stainless steel that has an immaculate reflection,” explains New York designer John Lyle, who works exclusively in metal. Among his new designs are statuesque Klismos chairs, sinuous bar stools and shapely tables wax-cast like jewelry in bronze, nickel and even 24-karat gold. “The reason these pieces aren’t cold is because they reflect that Persian or Turkish rug and those coral-colored walls. They sort of act as a chameleon in the room,” says Lyle, whose Adelphi mirror for Inox New York is akin to a Baroque earring. But this Baroque mirror is hardly a sign of bad luck; rather, it’s a beautiful good luck charm. Rather than stand out, it accentuates a room just as a piece of jewelry might do to an outfit.

Something chemical also happens when metal designs accent a room. “Sparkle is really nothing more than the reflection of light, and human beings respond dramatically to light,” says designer Gary Hutton.

“The love of things that sparkle is just hotwired into our DNA.”

48

T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .

TRAVEL

IT’S ABOUT TIME

AT FLORENCE’S HOTEL L’OROLOGIO, THE MAGIC IS IN THE DETAILS. BY STU NIFOUSSI

T

o the casual tourist, the Hotel L’Orologio is a luxurious boutique inn overlooking Florence’s famed Piazza Santa Maria Novella, with a theme relating to clocks and watches. But to those who share owner Sandro Fratini’s passion for horology (the measurement of time), the hotel is a treasure trove of memorabilia and unique design, with discoveries around every corner.

Fratini owns the small upscale hotel chain WTB (which stands for Why the Best?) with six hotels in Florence; he is also chairman of Super Rifle S.p.A, the parent company of Rifle jeans. A lifelong collector of vintage watches, he owns more than two thousand, mainly from his three favorite

For true watch aficionados, however, the real excitement is found on the ground floor, within rooms off the lobby. Claudio Delli, general manager of WTB Hotels, showed off the incredible details waiting to be discovered by those who choose to look more closely. Among them: the exclusive mirrors designed in the style of Rolex watch bands, and the sundial etched into the floor beside a reflecting pool that appears to be illuminated by stellini, tiny stars in the ceiling above. Then there are the door handles in the shape of Rolex watch hands (sometimes called Mercedes because they’re similar to the Mercedes logo), and the hand-painted reproductions of watch

brands: Rolex, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. At L’Orologio, Fratini has been able to combine his affinity for fine watches with his talent for consumer marketing, creating a singular and fascinating hotel experience.

Each room at Hotel L’Orologio is identified in two ways: with a room number, as you might expect, and also with a name corresponding to a watch owned by Signore Fratini. Each floor is devoted to a particular brand: the first to Vacheron Constantin, the second to Rolex, and the top two floors to Patek Philippe. Within each room are photos or artwork related to its namesake watch.

faces that decorate the floor in the smoking lounge beside Il Bar de L’O. But the pieces de resistance were the elegant busts of Messieurs Patek and Philippe that grace the pedestals in the sitting area. One could spend hours cataloging the little touches that make this hotel unique in the world.

WTB plans to roll out L’Orologio as their premier nameplate to other “artistic” cities in Italy, with new hotels planned for Venice and Rome. The company also markets L’Orologio products including scarves, alligator sneakers and other items, with an eye toward building L’Orologio into an internationally recognized brand.

50

NOLET’S GIN

ONE COULD SPEND HOURS CATALOGING THE LITTLE TOUCHES THAT MAKE THIS HOTEL UNIQUE IN THE WORLD.

Create a charm bracelet one memory at a time.

Thousands of charms in silver and gold.

SPIRITS

GET THE SKINNY LOW-CAL DRINKS THAT DON’T SKIMP ON TASTE. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON mint, Perrier and lime juice, for example, comes in at only 74 calories.

In addition to the Skinnygirl brand, you’ll now find other pre-made and low-cal options on liquor store shelves. New Zealand-based VnC Cocktails’ pre-mixed drinks feature real fruit juices and about 14% vodka or tequila, keeping calories down to around 150 a serving. And Voli Vodka drops its potency a bit (to 70 proof), meaning the flavored brand requires less flavoring (sweeteners) to overcome the alcohol. Just remember— moderation is still the key. Drinking three or four of these tasty treats leads to trouble. And a tighter-fitting dress.

A Ty-Ku mojito with mint, Perrier and lime juice comes in at 74 calories.

52

SLENDERIZE YOUR COCKTAILS • Replace sodas and tonics with sparkling water. This can cut your calories in half. (Mitigate flavor loss with a lime or grapefruit-flavored Perrier.)

• Use fresh, seasonal fruits rather than high-calorie purees, juices or pre-bottled mixers.

• Replace rum or light whiskies with sake or soju, lower in calories while still adding flavor (unlike vodka).

• Don't discount liqueurs: Cointreau has a lower calorie count than many grain-distllied spirits, according to Williams.

• Avoid booze with additives. Many lower-quality liquors (and wines) add sugar, caramel and other goodies to their ‘‘pure’’ product.

• When drinking (or mixing with) Champagne, develop a taste for the drier varieties (Extra Sec, Brut and Ultra Brut) which have far less residual sugar.

• In the 1790s, before there were cocktails, there were Slings: a little booze and a lot of water (think Scotch Highball). The Japanese drink similar cocktails, like 2 ounces of Hibiki or Yamakazi whiskey, with a large dose of soda water and ice.

Refreshing and light.

• Or follow Partida Tequila’s lead with its signature margarita: using agave nectar and spring water in place of triple sec and reducing the tequila by a half ounce shaves off 200 calories but actually enhances flavor.

NOLET’S GIN

O

ur national waistline may be expanding, but our palate has evolved. Where ‘‘diet drinking’’ was once limited to rum and Diet Coke or a cheap Chardonnay, we now want to have our mixology cake and drink it, too.

Enter the ‘‘skinny’’ cocktail. First popularized by Real Housewife Bethenny Frankel and her line of Skinnygirl premixed cocktails (and now wines), the idea has spread, particularly to beach and resort destinations where a few extra calories go a long way. New York’s Haru Sushi recently launched a Skinny Happy Hour. The very posh St. Julien Hotel and Spa in Boulder is offering an elegant lineup of low-cal and no-cal (mock) cocktails, as is the Saltbox gastropub in San Diego. While most mixed drinks run in the 200 to 500 calorie range (or more!), drinks on the new menu have as few as 90 calories per glass (usually a 4ounce serving) and are still full of flavor. ‘‘We have plenty of higher proof and classic cocktails on the menu,’’ says Erin-Elizabeth Williams, the beverage manager for Saltbox. ‘‘But San Diego is also a driving city and a fitness-oriented city. The designated driver and dieter shouldn’t have to miss out on all the fun.’’

Patti Stanger, host of Bravo’s The Millionaire Matchmaker, agrees. She recently became a strategic partner at TyKu spirits (sake, soju and liqueurs), in part because of her desire to promote tasty, low-cal cocktail options. ‘‘A while back, I had lost a lot of weight, and wanted something that could get me over first-date jitters without a lot of calories. Sake was the drink.’’ A mojito made with Ty-Ku liqueur,

7KH JLIW RI (WHUQLW\ WKH FKRLFH LV \RXUV

END PAGE

WORKING IT

HOW TO GET UPGRADES WITHOUT EVEN TRYING. BY LENORE RICH

W

ithout question, perks are addictive. Once you’re accustomed to the good life, it’s hard to go back. But as computers become more sophisticated, armed with every bit of data about me, my ability to embellish my qualifications for an upgrade is as antiquated as thinking a logo-embellished designer tote will do the trick. This will no longer work—there are just too many bag imposters out there.

Nor will demanding an upgrade using frequent flyer points (accumulated mainly through purchases): the airline’s computer already knows who has more points than I do, and who actually flew on its planes to acquire them.

So what does work?

Hotel loyalty programs, complimentary in most cases, will give you automatic upgrades, maybe breakfast, perhaps a better room, spa entrance, free WiFi access, etc. Just check out their website and sign up.

54

My favorite credit card, Starwood Preferred guest, gives me one point for each dollar spent, transferrable to most airlines. For every 20,000 points I move into an airline account, they rebate 5,000 more points, making it possible to get a better deal from Starwood than from the actual airline. The points are also redeemable towards hotel rooms and tickets to special events.

The Hyatt card doesn’t charge international fees and gives you two free nights at any Hyatt in the world. Automatic platinum status is an additional perk. I recently stayed for free in a beautiful New York City Hyatt, was upgraded to a suite and treated royally—all for the $75 annual fee.

The day before you arrive at any hotel, call the front desk to confirm your room and strike up a conversation with your new best friend. Upon check-in, remind him or her of your previous conversation.

On that note, human interaction (a smile, a compliment, casual conversation, eye contact) is the most obvious but easily overlooked art form in this era of social media and virtual ‘friendships.’

It’s also not a bad idea to compliment another branch of the hotel brand. In most cases, there’s a degree of ‘sibling rivalry’ between them and they’ll try to out-do each other.

And never underestimate the importance of good jewelry. I once stood in a box office line to get tickets to a nearly sold-out show. The attendant was wearing a beautiful pin and I complimented her on it. After hours of handing tickets to patrons who never even looked up at her, she was delighted and in turn complimented me on my earrings. A short conversation ensued and I landed house seats.

When traveling, I try to wear either bold, creative jewelry or simple pieces in unexpected ways. Thematic pins are always conversation starters, and sometimes more is more—especially since it’s safer to wear it than pack it!

A final tip that always works: don’t forget to mention that you’re celebrating a special occasion. (But better not make it a birthday unless it’s true: the computer already knows…)

© D.YURMAN 2012

FINK’S JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

FALL/WINTER 2012