THE DRUNKEN CYCLIST

By Jeffrey M. Kralik, Ph.D.

The Texas Two-Step: Barbeque and Wine

When I moved to Southeast Texas several years ago, I needed to adapt quickly to many aspects of living in the area, but there were three at the forefront: the traffic, the humidity and the barbecue. While the first two involve mere acceptance, there is a bit of wiggle room with the third, particularly when it comes to accompanying beverages.

While I understood that the “traditional” pairings with Texas barbecue range from sweet tea to beer, I was rather surprised to see limited effort to pair wine with the region’s version of smoked and grilled meat. Unlike other regional preparations, which often involve slathering the selected meat in a variety of rich, tangy, and often sweet sauces that can make wine pairing difficult, the Texas version is far less complicated. A simple salt and pepper rub is the mainstay of barbecue in the Lone Star state, fo-

Italy

Barbecue in Italy includes the vast variety of fresh fish available from the Mediterranean, but the meats involved come pretty close to those used in Texas: beef, sausage, chicken.

2019 Giacomo Borgogno and Figli Barbera d’Alba Piedmont, Italy Retail $24. 100% Barbera. From a famed producer of Barolo, this beauty has oodles of dark fruit, laced with herbs, spice and earth. The fruit here will work equally well with a smoky brisket or a garlic-laden sausage.

2019 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Rosso

Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy

Retail $20. 100% Sangiovese. Another well-known producer, this one a bit further south, in Tuscany. Fairly light (in color, but not flavor) with black cherry, black raspberry and well, black earth. Particularly tart, this would be a great counter-balance to a juicy brisket.

Spain

As in Italy, Spanish barbecue involves plenty of seafood, beef and chicken. There is more pork, though, and of course, paella.

2017 Juan Gil Jumilla Red Blend Murcia, Spain Retail $20. Closer to a New World style with tons of fruit, a bit of spice, fruit and well, more fruit. Did I mention the fruit? There is also mocha and a bit of pine needle. Another fantastic wine for brisket and sausage, plus pork ribs.

2016 Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Reserva Spain

Retail $20. 90% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha Tinta and Graciano. One of the larger producers in perhaps Spain’s most renowned wine region. Dark fruit, a touch of anise, black pepper and clove in a quintessential Old World way. Much more subtle than the Juan Gil, but also more sophisticated. A killer brisket pairing. cusing on the flavors and texture of the smoky meat.

Surprisingly, perhaps, this simple approach to grilling and smoking meat is practiced in many other countries around the world where barbecue is more frequently paired with, you guessed it, wine. Here are a few wines from around the world, all available here in Texas, that pair fantastically with what I consider the best style of the American staple.

California

Barbecue from the Golden State can be all over the map as can the wines. But when it comes to pairing wine with Texas barbecue, there might be no better choice than Zinfandel.

2018 Michael-David Vineyards Zinfandel Freakshow, Lodi, CA Retail $20. Quite dark in the glass with cassis a-go-go, black cherry and raspberry, vanilla, clove and sage. Really, really fruity on the palate as well, this might classify as a “quintessential Zin” with all that fruit at the fore, mid and finish. When looking for a bold wine, look no further than the Freakshow.

2019 Pedroncelli Zinfandel

Mother Clone Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County, CA

Retail $24. Dark fruit (plum, blackberry) paired with a host of spices and herbs (clove and sage for starters). One of the more versatile wines on this list, it will work with just about anything your grill master wants to throw your way.