V&A Autumn 2014 Catalogue

july to december 2014

v&a publishing – new books july to december 2014

new books

Catherine Flood is a Prints Curator in the Word and Image Department at the V&A. Gavin Grindon is Visiting Research Fellow at the V&A and Postdoctoral Fellow in Visual and Material Culture at Kingston University.

JULY £19.99 PB ISBN 9781851777976 250 × 210 mm 144pp 110 col and 25 b&w BIC: AK / JPW DESIGN / POLITICS

DISOBEDIENT OBJECTS Catherine Flood and Gavin Grindon, eds Disobedient Objects is about out-designing authority. It explores the material culture of radical change and protest – from objects familiar to many, such as banners or posters, to the more militant, cunning or technologically cutting-edge, including lock-ons, book-blocs and activist robots. Where previous social movement histories have focused on large-scale events, strategies or biographies, this book – and the exhibition it accompanies – shows how objects themselves can be revolutionary.

Focusing on social movements since 1980, the book features an introductory essay by the curators examining the history of objects in protest and activism, followed by six essays that look at particular objects, and the contexts in which they are used. Interspersed throughout are images of the objects at work, along with a selection of how-tos covering specific objects from a design perspective. This is a manifesto for experimental alternative design, showing how objects can define encounters and inspire activists.

Accompanies the V&A exhibition Disobedient Objects, 26 July 2014 to 1 February 2015

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Previous Ĺ“{ÂŒ uÂ? ƒ ÂŒÂ?nÂ?Â?s ‡u u‡nƒ nÂ…r ˆnˆ{sŠ ÂƒÄŞqyÄľ ‡… n ÂŒÂ?ss uŠnƒs was constructed by protesters in Tiannemen Square, Beijing, in May 1989, Šs{Â…Â?{w‡ŠnÂ?{Â…w Â?ys ˆŠ‡Â?sÂŒÂ?ÂŒ Â?ysŠs ² MÂ? ‘nÂŒ pnÂŒsr ‡… ^‡Â?{sÂ? ÂŒqÂ? ˆÂ?‡Š bsŠn SÂ? y{Â…n ÂŒ Kolkhoz Woman ‡u 6 . ^ƒÂ?ww sr {Â…Â?‡ Â?ys Œ‰Â?nŠs {Â? rŠnƒnÂ?{qn  “ unqsr Sn‡ ÂŒ portrait. It was destroyed five days later by a tank in the government assault on Â?ys ˆŠ‡Â?sÂŒÂ?sŠŒ Â?ynÂ? sÂ…rsr Â?ys XŠ‡ Esƒ‡qŠnq“ ƒ‡Â?sƒsÂ…Â? \sˆ {qnÂŒ nŠ‡Â?Â…r Â?ys world recall it, including the ‘TSquare’ augmented reality layer, which, on a mobile phone screen, projected the statue back into the square.

Opposite Guerrilla Girls photographed with fly-posting equipment in New York {Â… 66 ² Do women have to be naked to get into the Met. Museum?, poster, Guerrilla J{Š Œ ˆŠ{Â…Â? ‡… ˆnˆsŠ a^ 626 ² b A: F * §66. ² MÂ… 62& n wŠ‡Â?ˆ ‡u ‘‡ƒsÂ… nŠÂ?{ÂŒÂ?ÂŒ founded the Guerrilla Girls to expose sexism, racism and corruption in the art world. They achieve this with graphics and public actions that deliver facts with humour. The members of the Guerrilla Girls maintain anonymity by wearing gorilla ƒnÂŒ ÂŒ rsÂŒqŠ{p{Â…w Â?ysƒŒs Â?sÂŒ nÂŒ musƒ{Â…{ÂŒÂ? ƒnÂŒ sr nÂ?sÂ…wsŠŒ {Â… Â?ys Â?Šnr{Â?{‡… ‡u n…‡…“ƒ‡Â?ÂŒ r‡ w‡‡rsŠŒ  { s \‡p{Â… L‡‡r c‡…rsŠ c‡ƒnÂ… nÂ…r CnÂ?ƒnÂ… n Â?nqÂ?{q that keeps the focus on the issues rather than their personalities.

Top Puppets and puppeteers from Top Goon: Diaries of a Little Dictator, performed p“ Â?ys ^“Š{nÂ… nŠÂ?{ÂŒÂ? wŠ‡Â?ˆ SnÂŒnÂŒ{Â? SnÂ?{ § ² Top Goon is a web-based series that lampoons Syrian President Bashar al-Assad and his regime’s response to the popular uprising in that country. By using finger puppets Masasit Mati are able to shield their identities while reducing the President to a figure of fun.

Right This protest palanquin reworks a Japanese Mikoshi, a traditional religious transport for deities used in festivals, adding subcultural motorcycle decorations.

Its maker Munuteru Ujino found Mikoshis received less attention from the police Top right Bordamos por La Paz groups across Mexico hand-sew Â?ynÂ… ‘yss sr Â?sy{q sÂŒ Ĺ“{ÂŒ ‡…s ‘nÂŒ ƒnrs u‡Š nÂ…r Â?ÂŒsr {Â… n rsƒ‡…ŒÂ?ŠnÂ?{‡… display handkerchiefs public squares remembering the in Tokyo, against the invasionand of Iraq.

Here, artist-activistinMasanori Oda rides on it killed and disappeared victims of the so-called war on drugs. ‘{�y ‡…s ‡u y{Œ ƒn…“ EMe …‡{Œs {…Œ�Š�ƒs…�Œ ƒnrs sŒˆsq{n  “ u‡Š ˆŠ‡�sŒ�Œ

july–december 2014 new titles 3

JOHN CONSTABLE The Making of a Master Mark Evans, ed.

The remarkable naturalism of John Constable’s paintings has always been acknowledged, and his ‘vivid and timeless’ (as he called them) oil sketches have been celebrated since the 1890s as precursors of Impressionism, modernism and photographic composition. He remains a powerful influence on contemporary artists, and was famously Lucian Freud’s favourite painter. He was also hailed in 1866 as the first painter whose ‘art is purely and thoroughly English’, and his studio oil paintings have helped to define our idea of the English countryside.

Published to accompany a major V&A exhibition, this book evaluates these aspects of Constable’s work, placing the artist’s naturalism and studio work in the context of his wider practice – in particular his talent for copying, and extensive print collection. A companion volume to John Constable: Oil Sketches from the Victoria and Albert Museum (page6, V&A, 2011), this book shows how the artist’s reverence for the Old Masters is not incompatible with his revolutionary handling of paint: where others competed with the Masters, Constable assimilated their ideas and values to imbue his own naturalistic vision with dynamism.

Mark Evans is Senior Curator of Paintings at the V&A.

4 new titles july–december 2014

Features a previously unrecorded oil sketch by John Constable recently discovered in the V&A’s permanent collections.

Accompanies the V&A exhibition Constable: The Making of a Master, 20 September 2014 to 11 January 2015 SEPTEMBER £30.00 HB ISBN 9781851778003 240 × 275 mm 192pp 170 col BIC: AFC / AGB HISTORY OF ART july-december 2014 new books 5

JOHN CONSTABLE Oil Sketches from the Victoria and Albert Museum Mark Evans, ed.

This book presents a unique insight into Constable’s working process using the V&A’s unparalleled collection of the artist’s oil sketches. John Constable: Oil Sketches from the Victoria and Albert Museum presents afresh two of the V&A’s star works: the vibrant full-size oil sketches for The Hay Wain and The Leaping Horse, shown for the first time since their revelatory cleaning. Both reveal their original colours and tonalities, and are reproduced alongside a spectacular selection of Constable’s smaller oil sketches, supplemented by an exquisite series of his watercolours and drawings.

AVAILABLE NOW £25.00 HB ISBN 9781851776269 240 × 275 mm 144pp 140 col BIC: AFC / AGB HISTORY OF ART

Mark Evans is Senior Curator of Paintings at the V&A.

fig.Con013 John Constable, The Leaping Horse, 1825.

Oil on canvas, 142.2 × 187.3cm (56 × 73¾in).

Royal Academy, London (r.25.1)

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fig.Con012 John Constable, The Hay Wain, 1821.

Oil on canvas, 130.5 × 185.5cm (51³/8 × 42¾in).

National Gallery, London (ng 1207; r.21.1)

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Constable and the Oil Sketch

Constable’s Oil Sketches in the Twentieth Century

At the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries Constable passed from the realm of memory into that of history and, increasingly, even national myth.1 Over fifty years after its initial publication, a new edition of C.R. Leslie’s Life and Letters of John Constable appeared in 1896 with an introduction by the author’s son Robert C. Leslie (1826–1901).2 He had been at school with Constable’s sons Alfred and Lionel and helped his father to clean the fullscale sketches of The Hay Wain and The Leaping Horse.3 Robert Leslie took issue with James Orrock’s distinctly muscular praise of The Leaping Horse as ‘another example of the great impressionist’s work [which] may be said . . . to form the high bar for the feats of this great Art athlete’.4 While conceding that these ‘six foot’ sketches were ‘wonderfully fine in sparkle and effect’, Leslie thought ‘both were more or less mere masses of colour, loaded on with the brush and knife . . . unfinished experiments upon a large scale for more finished pictures’.5 He also cautioned: ‘Constable’s much-talked-of influence, especially as an impressionist, upon the French school of landscape, has, I think, been greatly exaggerated’.6 The first modern monograph on the artist appeared in 1902: Constable and his Influence on Landscape Painting, by Charles John Holmes (1868–1936), a future director of the National Gallery in London. His perceptive study remained the standard reference work for over fifty years.7 Six years later, in a seminal book, the German critic Julius MeierGraefe (1867–1935) wrote of Constable’s oil sketches: they are even free from the utilitarianism which the thought of his future picture imposes on the artist . . . made for their own sakes. . . . Their technique is peculiarly their own. Their form does not permit of completion. . . .

He is never greater than here, and I say greater advisedly, for the particles of paint are much more roughly treated

than in the pictures. The sketches were a kind of journal . . . painted records of events which turned on atmosphere and light . . . the spur of research guided his brush. . . . In his sketches Constable ventured upon things which we can readily believe required a new generation to make them into pictures. . . . Constable suggests our contemporaries, and the best of these. . .8 In 1921 Holmes ruefully observed: ‘the time is not, I think, far distant, when Constable’s greatness will be seen to rest far more upon his brilliant sketches and studies’.9 This was precisely the position taken by Roger Fry (1866–1934) and Clive Bell (1881–1964), who had organized the sensational ‘First Post-Impressionist Exhibition’ at the Grafton Galleries, London, in 1910. While Bell considered Constable’s oil sketches ‘perhaps, the most brilliant and characteristic part of his output’, Fry entirely dismissed his exhibition paintings, while noting with relief that ‘he frequently did full-size studies for these pictures, and it is to those and to the sketches that we must turn to find the real Constable’.10 In 1937, on the centenary of the artist’s death, the painter John Piper (1903–1992) stressed his essential modernity: his sketches mean more to us today than his big paintings in the end; they are so complete, vivid and timeless. . . .

Constable . . . deeply affected the course of the [landscape] tradition and made the Impressionist movement, and ultimately the whole of the modern movement, possible and necessary.11 A decade later, Sir Kenneth Clark (1903–1983) concurred: ‘those so-called “full-size sketches” . . . are Constable’s supreme achievement . . . the force of sensation is always strong enough to lift them above the commonplace’.12 During the Second World War, the associations of Constable’s paintings and the actual landscape of ‘Constable

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6 new titles july–december 2014

SURREAL THINGS Surrealism and Design Ghislaine Wood, ed.

‘Flicking through its more than 350 pages is a rich and complex pleasure’ The Spectator ‘An essential addition to the bibliography of the subject’ Brian Sewell, Evening Standard From the sensuality of Dali’s Mae West Lips sofa to Schiaparelli’s dramatic Tear dress, Surrealism produced some of the most extraordinary objects ever created. Now available in paperback, this book examines the movement’s impact on the wider fields of design, photography and the decorative arts, and its sometimes uneasy relationship with the commercial world.

SEPTEMBER £24.99 NEW IN PAPERBACK ISBN 9781851775019 287 × 247 mm 368pp 350 col BIC: ACXD7 ART & DESIGN

Surreal Things features works from artists and designers such as Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, Man Ray, Horst P. Horst, Alexander Calder, Max Ernst and Joan Miró and explores some of Surrealism’s dominant themes. The range of objects spans painting, sculpture, works on paper, bookbinding, jewellery, ceramics, glass, textiles, furniture, fashion, film and photography.

Ghislaine Wood is a curator specializing in twentieth-century art and design in the Research Department at the V&A.

july–december 2014 new titles 7

HORST Photographer of Style Susanna Brown, ed. Foreword by Anna Wintour

Published to accompany a headline exhibition at the V&A, this book is the definitive celebration of the extraordinary photographic career of Horst P. Horst (1906–99). One of Vogue’s most prolific and creative contributors, Horst worked in Paris and New York, photographing fashions by leading designers and making portraits of the century’s stars. His important work made outside the realms of fashion photography is also included here.

SEPTEMBER £40.00 HB ISBN 9781851778010 310 × 240 mm 352pp 360 col BIC: AJB / AKT PHOTOGRAPHY / FASHION

Horst excelled at nude studies and still-life photography, fusing Hellenic and Surrealist motifs and drawing inspiration from artists such as Salvador Dalí. He captured the exquisite simplicity of natural forms – plants, shells and stones – transforming them into abstract kaleidoscopic collages.

His little-known travel photographs reveal his fascination with ancient cultures, landscapes and architecture and, in later years, Horst photographed some of the world’s most beautiful homes for Vogue and House & Garden.

His work epitomizes the interconnections between art, fashion and high society.

Today, Horst’s photographs continue to inspire art directors and photographers, and he ranks alongside Irving Penn and Richard Avedon as one of the great masters of twentieth-century photography.

Susanna Brown is Curator of Photographs at the V&A. Accompanies the V&A exhibition Horst: Photographer of Style, 6 September 2014 to 4 January 2015

8 new titles july–december 2014

Horst: Photographer of Style

Portraiture

FROM LIMELIGHT TO STARLIGHT: HORST’S PORTRAITS OF STAGE AND SCREEN STARS Terence Pepper

Marlene Dietrich, New York, 1942

The 1980s saw a resurgence of interest in Horst’s work. Valentine Lawford’s magisterial book Horst: His Work and His World was published in 1984, shortly after a book of new portraits, Return Engagement, with text and commentaries by James Watters, Entertainments Editor for American Vogue. These joined Salute to the Thirties (1971), a popular compendium of celebrity portraits of the period by Horst and George Hoyningen-Huene. [1] In the late 1980s, Horst’s classic works started to become available to institutions and private collectors through the promotion of his art and aesthetics by Etheleen Staley and Taki Wise of the StaleyWise Gallery in New York, and in London by Andrew Cowan and Tim Jefferies, the energetic directors of Hamiltons Gallery.

A series of carefully curated displays showcased Horst’s exquisite prints, including platinum and palladium editions, prized for their beautiful tonal range and permanence. In 1989, I chose to include one of Horst’s most stylish portraits, a 1933 study of Noël Coward, in Camera Portraits, the National Portrait Gallery’s exhibition and publication to mark the 150th anniversary of the birth of photography.

Ten years later, the National Portrait Gallery was offered an amazing opportunity to stage the first museum retrospective of Horst’s portrait photographs.[2] Amongst the varied works in the exhibition, it was Horst’s studies of leading stars of stage and screen that were particularly entrancing. Two star portraits were selected as key images for the lavish exhibition catalogue: Jessica Tandy appeared on the cover, while Rita Hayworth featured as the catalogue frontispiece and also the exhibition poster. These beguiling images were thought likely to seduce visitors not already familiar with Horst’s captivating compositions and interpretations.

Jessica Tandy was a British-born actress, wife of Jack Hawkins and later, and more lastingly, of Canadian actor Hume Cronyn, with whom she frequently starred. Fifty years before her Oscar-winning performance in Driving Miss Daisy (1989), Tandy posed for Horst’s camera to create an image that perfectly represents Horst’s 1930s style: her half-lit silhouette forms a sculptural composition against an Art Deco-style studio prop. Nine years later, Horst photographed Rita Hayworth in an even more alluring half-light, after the success of her role in Gilda (1946). Indeed, one of Horst’s Vogue covers, featuring the model Susan Shaw, had itself made an appearance in an earlier film in which Hayworth had starred, that of Cover Girl (1944). [3] While Horst’s interest in architectural interiors was to have

a profound effect on his future photography, much of his early inspiration resulted from his association with George HoyningenHuene. Both shared an interest in Greco-Roman art mixed with 1920s and 1930s Modernism. Both photographed a number of the same stage and film personalities, such as Gertrude Lawrence, Tilly Losch, Katharine Hepburn, Gary Cooper and Sybil Thorndike.

Horst’s first portrait to appear in Vogue was a study of the German model Agnetha Fischer, who had previously posed for Huene and went on to become a photographer herself. Published in the November 1931 issue of the French edition of the magazine, neither Horst nor Fischer is credited but the image is important because it was used to advertise the quality of photography at Vogue’s Paris studio. The December issue, however, contained several Horst images that were credited. [4] Like many Vogue photographers, Horst’s portraits spanned a wide cross-section of subjects, from artists and writers to presidents and royalty, but towards the end of the 1930s Horst became aware of a new sort of subject. Hollywood movie stars were imperceptibly assuming the place left vacant by Europe’s vanishing royal families, as he later noted in Salute to the Thirties. With the approach of war, the escapism offered by both the theatre and the cinema gained in popularity. Horst now began to photograph these new, classless celebrities and continued to chronicle the stars of stage and screen for the next 60 years.

Although his first portrait was taken for French Vogue, it was for the British edition of the magazine, in April 1932, that Horst took his first ‘celebrity fashion portrait’ of a named and well-known star, Gertrude Lawrence, then appearing in Ronald Jeans’ play Can the Leopard…? at the Theatre Royal, Haymarket (1931). The magazine caption reads: ‘There is only one Gertrude Lawrence and there she is on the opposite page looking her own provocative self, with a blue scarf caught around her lemon-yellow dress. “Can the Leopard?” provides her with the sort of part she excels in and talking of leopards, the rug she stands on is from Rowland Ward, Piccadilly.’ [5] A portrait from the same sitting appeared in American Vogue three months’ later, this time – as Lawford relates – with Lawrence standing on a bold zebra skin, chosen by Horst. Interestingly, a studio chair in Howard Coster’s studio had a zebra-striped cushion, which was used on a number of sittings including one in 1931 for Noël Coward’s set designer Gladys Calthrop. Horst and Huene both used Coster’s studio on a number of occasions when visiting London and this may have provided another inspiration

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july–december 2014 new titles 9

MEDIEVAL IVORY CARVINGS 1200–1550 Paul Williamson and Glyn Davies

AUGUST £150 HB 2-vol. slipcase ACADEMIC DISCOUNT ISBN 9781851778119 287 × 247 mm 928pp 1,060 col BIC: ACK / AFKC ART HISTORY / SCULPTURE

The V&A’s collection of ivory carvings from the period 1200 to 1550 is one of the most important in the world, and this is the first catalogue of it to be published since 1929. Together with the earlier volume, Medieval Ivory Carvings: Early Christian to Romanesque (V&A, 2010), the books make available over 400 pieces of the ivory carver’s art, discussing in detail many of the most celebrated ivories of the Middle Ages.

Included here are masterpieces from the most important centres of ivory carving in the Gothic era. Among them are the Salting Leaf and Soissons Diptych from thirteenthcentury France; the early-fourteenth-century Salting Diptych from England; Giovanni Pisano’s Crucified Christ and the Aldobrandini Crozier from Italy; and the unique Wingfield-Digby Crozier from fourteenth-century Norway.

10 new titles july–december 2014

Additionally, important groups of Virgin and Child statuettes, tabernacle polyptychs, diptychs, triptychs, writing tablets, croziers, mirror backs, caskets and the products of the Florentine and Venetian Embriachi workshops are catalogued.

Appendices include a small group of postByzantine and Russian ivories and the results of radiocarbon-dating of selected works. Each entry provides a comprehensive physical and scholarly discussion that incorporates much new research; also included are carvings of dubious authenticity, which are discussed as fully as the genuine pieces.

Beautifully illustrated with new colour photography, Medieval Ivory Carvings 1200–1550 is the authoritative guide to the V&A’s collection and an accessible survey of the subject.

Paul Williamson is Keeper of Sculpture, Metalwork, Ceramics & Glass at the V&A. Glyn Davies is a Curator in the Department of Sculpture, Metalwork, Ceramics & Glass at the V&A. Praise for Medieval Ivory Carvings: Early Christian to Romanesque: ‘The summation of a lifetime’s work and a triumph of scholarship’ The Art Newspaper ‘Not simply a catalogue of ivories but a fundamental contribution to the history of medieval art’ The Burlington Magazine july-december 2014 new books 11

Barbara Hulanicki OBE, co-founder of Biba, is a photographer, illustrator and designer whose career in fashion has spanned five decades. Martin Pel is Curator of Costume & Textiles at Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove.

12 new titles july-december 2014

THE BIBA YEARS: 1963–1975 Barbara Hulanicki and Martin Pel Founded as a boutique mail-order service in 1963, Biba – the brainchild of designer Barbara Hulanicki – quickly gained cult status, and outgrew several London premises before landing at 99–117 Kensington High Street in 1973 as ‘Big Biba’, ‘the most beautiful store in the world’.

This book tells the story of the Biba years, from the first ensembles, through the four iconic London shops, to the eventual flourishing of a lifestyle brand that revolutionized British retail and fashion culture.

SEPTEMBER £35.00 HB ISBN 9781851777990 287 × 247 mm 240pp 280 col and b&w BIC: AKT FASHION

Left: Biba, gold sequinned dress, Britain, c.1967.

Collection of Angie Smith.

Featuring a wealth of previously unpublished material, including early fashion illustrations

by Hulanicki and full-colour facsimiles of the six luxurious Biba catalogues, The Biba Years investigates the innovative ethos of the company – the first retailer to bring affordable fashion to the young consumers of the 1960s and ’70s. Extensive garment photography documents the unique Biba ‘look’, while archival images provide a glimpse into the glamorous surrounds of the hugely popular London stores.

An ideal companion to A to Biba: The Autobiography of Barbara Hulanicki (V&A, 2007), this beautiful book incorporates many personal insights from the designer and her contemporaries at Biba, and includes new illustrations by Hulanicki created specially for the publication. The Biba Years provides the last word on a fashion phenomenon, whose extensive impact on the fashion industry can still be felt today.

Biba, printed cotton dress with white buttons, Britain, c. 1967.

Collection of Murray Blewett.

Right: ‘Victorian Gothic’ print cotton dress with collar, Britain, c.1968.

Collection of Murray Blewett.

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july–december 2014 new titles 13

ART NOUVEAU FASHION Clare Rose The Art Nouveau movement overlapped with late Arts and Crafts in the 1890s and early modernism in the 1910s, combining the exquisite workmanship and natural forms of the former with the innovative materials, forms and practices associated with the latter. Art Nouveau Fashion provides a fascinating introduction to the style, defining it, and placing it in design history by focusing on a number of important designers – Worth, Lucile, Paquin, Poiret – and key topics, such as clients and artists, jewellery and accessories, and advertising.

SEPTEMBER £25.00 HB ISBN 9781851778027 270 × 216 mm 144pp 110 col and 25 b&w BIC: AKT / ACVY FASHION / ART & DESIGN

Art Nouveau fashion questioned conventional gender norms with daring flamboyance, presenting women in suits, influenced by tailored menswear, for the street and overtly seductive lingerie for the boudoir. Fashionable corsets manipulated female bodies into increasingly artificial forms, while advertising seduced consumers with images of scantily clad women. The movement’s radicalism and openness to diverse design influences directly influenced the counter-culture of the late 1960s, inspiring boutiques in London’s fashionable Carnaby Street and San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury. Art Nouveau fashion continues to resonate today – and this book presents it with a wealth of unseen images and historic sources.

Clare Rose is a lecturer in Contextual Studies at the Royal School of Needlework and frequently lectures at the V&A.

Worth, evening wrap.

Embroidered silk, velvet, tassels.

Paris, c.1909. V&A: T.207–1970; Enrico Sacchetti, fashion plate for Worth.

Gouache. Paris, 1913. V&A: E.22197–1957

René Lalique, dragonfly corsage ornament.

Gold, chrysophase, moonstones, diamonds, enamel.

Paris, 1897–8. Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisbon: 1197

Art Nouveau jewellery was also a site for experimentation with exotic cultures from the Near East, the Americas and the European past. A corsage ornament created in 1902 by René Lalique (1860–1945) embodies this tension between fine workmanship in sumptuous materials and threatening motifs. The ornament is composed of a dragonfly enlarged to three or four times life size, with a sphinx-like female bust [ANF039_2006AD2097].2 Jewellery as an Art Form – Due to the cost of its raw materials and the technical skills required for its production, jewellery has often been seen as the most elevated of the decorative arts. This link was confirmed by the work of the artist Alphonse Mucha (1860–1939), who first designed items of jewellery for the Parisian retailer Georges Fouquet (1862–1957), and then the boutique in which to sell them [ANF031_2006AN4224; ANF033_2006AP1052].3 This luxurious space was dedicated to female beauty, with nude women draped in jewels on the façade and in the stained glass windows, and a large peacock on the wall behind the counter. Mucha and Fouquet also collaborated in 1899 on a special commission for Sarah Bernhardt (1844–1923), creating a serpent bracelet that referred to her stage roles as Medea and Cleopatra [see pl.ANF093].4 Yet Fouquet also designed mass-produced

Lucien Gautrait, peacock pendant. Gold, enamel, diamonds, opals, emeralds.

France, c.1900. V&A: 965–1901

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ART NOUVEAU FASHION

14 new titles july–december 2014

JEWELLERY AND ACCESSORIES

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ART NOUVEAU FASHION

DESIGNING FASHION

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STYLE AND SATIRE Fashion in Print 1776–1925 Catherine Flood and Sarah Grant From the sky-high coiffures of Georgian Britain to the languid silhouette of 1920s ‘flappers’, Style and Satire tells the story of European fashion and its most fantastical trends from two interrelated perspectives – the lavish, celebratory fashion plate, and the gloriously irreverent satirical print.

SEPTEMBER £12.99 PB with flaps ISBN 9781851778034 245 × 210 mm 80pp 39 col and 14 b&w BIC: AKT FASHION

Beautifully printed, hand-coloured fashion plates depicting the latest styles and fabrics first appeared in Britain and France in the late 1700s – nestled in luxurious periodicals and available for sale as desirable objects in their own right. At the same time (and often by the same artists), satirical prints gloried in the absurdities of fashion, presenting an alternative, often grotesque, vision of the fashionable ideal.

Presented here as a joint history for the first time, the two genres describe an emerging, vibrant fashion culture. They themselves also evolved as art forms, first through the pages of the mass-produced Victorian periodical, and then as vibrant, stencilled images in the luxurious publications of the 1920s and ’30s.

Lavishly illustrated and rigorously researched, Style and Satire presents a fresh and original history of fashion – a vital and witty addition to every fashion victim’s library.

Catherine Flood is a Prints Curator in the Word and Image Department at the V&A, specializing in posters, graphics and ephemeral print.

Sarah Grant is a curator in the Word and Image Department at the V&A.

Many illustrations of the 1920s employed

George Barbier (1882–1932)

James Gillray 1757–1815

The French term for the Regency ‘poke’ bonnet

Les Invisibles

was the ‘invisible’, because the hat’s deep peak

Published by Hannah Humphrey,

shielded the wearer’s face from view. Gillray

Paris and London, 1810.

also makes a dig at the fashionable French

Hand-coloured etching.

whose outlandish ensembles were seen in

Tito spoofs the highly stylised Art Deco fashion

Ettore Tito (1859–1941) Qui trop embrasse…

plates of his time, which paired scenes of

France, about 1925

improbably elegant couples with ‘enigmatic’

& Fanfreluches: Almanach des Modes

shades of watercolour to capture the fresh,

Présentes, Passées & Futures, Paris, 1922

youthful fashion palette emerging in post-war

Process engraving and pochoir.

caption is a spin on the French proverb, ‘He

Europe. A laborious and therefore expensive

Museum no. E.898–1975

who embraces/takes on too much, grasps

Process engraving and pochoir.

technique, pochoir was used for high-quality

Given by Mr and Mrs Urry

nothing’.

Museum no. C.6694/1

fashion plates.

Oui!

the ‘pochoir’ printing technique. This was a

Fashion plate published in Falbalas

form of hand stencilling that used luminous

or tantalisingly obscure captions. Here the

types, the ‘incroyables’ and ‘merveilleuses’,

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Given by Major Nicholas Collin and Mr

fashion plates of the day. As here, they were

Francis Collin at the request of their mother

often depicted from behind or with their

Mrs Frank Collin. Museum no. E.992–1970.

faces obscured.

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july–december 2014 new titles 15

DOLLS’ HOUSES FROM THE V&A MUSEUM OF CHILDHOOD Halina Pasierbska

This beautifully illustrated book celebrates some of the best-loved dolls’ houses from the V&A Museum of Childhood. Published to accompany a new exhibition, Dolls’ Houses presents specially commissioned photography detaling the astonishing skill and craftsmanship required to create these homes in miniature scale.

The book invites you to take a close-up look at the most interesting and historically significant examples of this absorbing craft, from the exquisite Nuremburg House of 1673, to the brightly coloured twenty-first century Kaleidoscope House. From lavish country mansions to cosy suburban villas, it explores the houses’ fascinating roles as both domestic teaching aids and records of contemporary lifestyle, and gives unique insights into the world of their owners.

OCTOBER £14.99 PB with flaps ISBN 9781851778041 217 × 217 mm 144pp 160 col BIC: WCW / YNV COLLECTABLES / CHILDREN’S 16 new titles july–december 2014

Halina Pasierbska is former Curator of Dolls’ Houses and Toys at the V&A Museum of Childhood.

Accompanies the V&A Museum of Childhood exhibition, Small Stories: Dolls’ Houses and History of the Home, 13 December 2014 to 6 September 2015 july-december 2014 new titles 17

THE DOLLS’ HOUSE COLOURING BOOK Emily Sutton This delightful colouring book brings one of the V&A’s favourite collections into your home.

Drawn by Emily Sutton, illustrator of the bestselling Clara Button books, each page is based on a dolls’ house from the V&A Museum of Childhood and is ready for you to personalize.

The book is a journey through the rooms of a perfect dolls’ house, from front door and reception to bedroom, via toy room, bathroom and pantry, and there is plenty to explore and make your own. Designed to be by turn charming, witty and fun, this is a perfect present and a fantastic souvenir.

Emily Sutton is an illustrator whose work is influenced by twentieth-century artists such as Edward Bawden and Eric Ravilious. Her previous books include Clara Button and the Magical Hat Day (V&A, 2011) and Clara Button and the Wedding Day Surprise (V&A, 2013).

OCTOBER £5.99 PB ISBN 9781851778058 310 × 233 mm 32pp BIC: YBGC READERSHIP: 3-7 years CHILDREN’S ACTIVITY BOOK

18 new titles july–december 2014

CLARA BUTTON AND THE WEDDING DAY SURPRISE Amy de la Haye and Emily Sutton ‘Mummies will be happy to see so many creative, cultural, educational and ethically aware boxes ticked in one volume’ Evening Standard After the postman delivers their invitation to a wedding, Clara and her brother Ollie begin careful preparations. Clara imagines what the bride might wear, and might have worn in the past, but disaster strikes the night before the big event! Can Ollie and his inventions – and a visit to the haberdashery – save the day?

Amy de la Haye is a Rootstein Hopkins Professor of Dress History and Curatorship at London College of Fashion. Emily Sutton is an illustrator whose work is influenced by twentieth-century artists such as Edward Bawden and Eric Ravilious.

OCTOBER £5.99 NEW IN PAPERBACK ISBN 9781851778065 272 × 215 mm 32pp BIC: YBCH / CMBC: A3M69 READERSHIP: 3–7 years PICTURE BOOKS

CLARA BUTTON AND THE MAGICAL HAT DAY Amy de la Haye and Emily Sutton ‘A beautifully illustrated, imaginative story.’

Jacqueline Wilson ‘Charming’ Vogue ‘Emily Sutton’s illustrations are a delight’ The Spectator AVAILABLE NOW £5.99 PB ISBN 9781851777129 £10.99 HB ISBN 9781851776580 £3.99 APP for iPad 9781851777013

july–december 2014 new titles 19

FINNISH DESIGN A Concise History Pekka Korvenmaa

OCTOBER £30.00 HB ISBN 9781851778126 210 × 170 mm 344pp 206 col and b&w BIC: AKP PRODUCT DESIGN

In 1961 the V&A held the hugely popular exhibition Finlandia (pictured right) showcasing the best of Finland’s applied art and design. Today, the V&A’s collections continue to reflect the country’s extraordinarily rich material culture, and this book presents a timely study of Finnish design from the late nineteenth century right up to the present day – complete with fully illustrated examples of contemporary design.

Featuring iconic designers and brands such as Alvar Aalto, Tapio Wirkkala, Kaj Franck for Iittala and Marimekko, Finnish Design: A Concise History considers the impact of twentieth-century Finnish modernism in its wider historical context and looks at how a flourishing design culture in Finland has continued to play an integral part in the nation’s economy, industry and national identity.

Pekka Korvenmaa is Professor of Design and Culture at the School of Art, Design and Architecture at the Aalto University, Helsinki.

20 new titles july–december 2014

july-december 2014 new titles 21

EMBROIDERY DESIGNS For Fashion and Furnishing Moira Thunder This striking publication presents highlights from the V&A’s outstanding collection of embroidery designs for fashion, accessories and home furnishings.

A practical, inspirational resource for textile historians, designers and embroiderers, Embroidery Designs contains patterns for gowns, jackets, bags, collars, children’s clothing and soft furnishings, as well as poignant designs for embroideries on the themes of love and intimacy. The book is international in scope, and includes examples from the Italian Renaissance, twentieth-century Russia and Morris & Co as well as a pattern for Queen Mary’s closet.

Moira Thunder is a freelance curator, writer and speaker and was previously Curator in the Word and Image Department at the V&A. NOVEMBER £19.99 PB with flaps ISBN 9781851778140 300 × 247 mm 128pp 150 col BIC: AKT / AKTX TEXTILES / DESIGN

22 new titles july–december 2014

THE ARTS OF LIVING Europe 1600–1815 Elizabeth Miller and Hilary Young, eds Published to accompany the landmark opening of the V&A’s new Europe 1600–1800 galleries, The Arts of Living explores the breadth, depth and beauty of the V&A’s seventeenth- and eighteenth-century collections.

Written by a team of experts, this book provides an overview of more than two centuries of cultural development and artistic endeavour.

Masterpieces such as the Sérilly Cabinet and Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s terracotta for his funeral monument the Blessed Ludovica Albertoni are contextualized alongside discussions of Louis XIV’s patronage and the seventeenth-century Dutch interior. Many works are shown for the first time, including Count Brühl’s Meissen fountain and actor David Garrick’s tea service.

NOVEMBER £25.00 HB ISBN 9781851778072 245 × 220 mm 208pp 230 col BIC: ACQ HISTORY OF ART & DESIGN

Elizabeth Miller is Senior Curator of prints at the V&A. Hilary Young is Senior Curator of ceramics at the V&A. The V&A’s new Europe 1600–1800 galleries will open in December 2014.

Supplying the Market for Luxury Furniture

113

The strong control exercised by the guilds began to crumble at the end of the eighteenth century. In France the process was hastened by the Revolution.

For some this offered new opportunities, in particular for the firm of Georges Jacob, which had worked extensively for the court. From 1803 to 1813, it reaped great rewards providing furniture for the new imperial regime of Napoleon. The giltwood stool with legs carved as sabres (pl. 6), was made by the Jacob workshop in 1805 as one of a set designed by the architect Bernard Poyet for the Corps Législatif (legislative chamber of the government). The firm also supplied furniture for Napoleon’s refurbishment of once royal palaces and the Parisian houses of his new courtiers, becoming a key creator of the new Empire style.

5 Jewel casket on stand, with writing fitments, workshop of Jean-Henri Riesener Paris, France, about 1780 Marquetry of European and tropical hardwoods on a carcase of oak; mounts of gilded brass; trays lined with silk V&A: John Jones Bequest, 1106–1882

6 Stool, designed by Bernard Poyet, workshop of Jacob Desmalter Paris, France, 1805 Carved and gilded beechwood; silk-covered upholstery about 1855–70 V&A: by H. Blairman & Sons, W.3–1956

july–december 2014 new titles 23

WORD & IMAGE Art, Books and Design from the National Art Library Julius Bryant, Elizabeth James and Rowan Watson This unique history brings together more than 150 spectacular objects from the National Art Library’s collection of literature, prints, drawings and photographs.

Housed within the V&A, the library was, from the beginning, an integral part of the Museum, formed by, and for, artists and designers as an essential element of the educational and museological project of Prince Albert and Henry Cole after the Great Exhibition of 1851.

NOVEMBER £25.00 HB ISBN 9781851778089 270 × 216 mm 176pp 180 col BIC: AKH ART & DESIGN

24 new titles july–december 2014

Word & Image shows how the distinct character of the NAL was formed, and how its collections created a new kind of bibliographical resource.

From a fifteenth-century book of hours to William Morris’s specimen pages for Jean Froissart’s The Chronicles of Fraunce, Inglande, and Other Places Adjoynynge; from George Cruikshank’s studies of Fagin for Oliver Twist to an Yves Saint Laurent design for the House of Dior; and from Bill Brandt’s photographs to the Book of Nails by Floating Concrete Octopus, Word & Image explores some of the finest examples of ‘book art’ in existence.

Julius Bryant is Keeper of Word & Image at the V&A, responsible for the National Art Library, and for Prints, Drawings, Paintings and Photographs.

Rowan Watson is Senior Curator for the National Art Library’s special collections and teaches on the History of the Book MA at the University of London.

Elizabeth James is the Senior Librarian for collections and documentation at the National Art Library. july-december 2014 new titles 25

V&A PATTERN: 100 POSTCARDS These beautiful postcards have been selected from the bestselling V&A Pattern titles. Drawing on designs intended for textiles, wallpaper, fashion and furnishing, this richly varied collection is a resource for artists, designers and students, as well as a charming addition to the design fan’s stationery collection.

Presented in a colourful presentation box, these beautifully printed patterns range from the intricate floral motifs of William Morris and C.F.A. Voysey to the wit and vibrancy of Pop era design; from the cool restraint of Fifties textile design to the iconic designs of Liberty & Co. A desirable gift and a surprising trove of design inspiration, this postcard collection is the perfect introduction to the V&A’s design collections.

Praise for the V&A Pattern series: ‘Beautiful and practical, the books are visual summaries of the most sumptuous parts of the V&A collections’ RA Magazine ‘These small books contain an impressive repository of ideas’ House & Garden ‘The V&A makes it easy for anyone looking for inspiration with its series of charming pattern books’ Elle Décor ‘Rich design inspiration’ Harpers Bazaar SEPTEMBER £14.99 box set ISBN 9781851778157 BIC: WZS STATIONERY / GIFT

26 stationery july–december 2014

V&A PATTERN SERIES – AVAILABLE NOW

C.F.A. VOYSEY Karen Livingstone £7.99 HB 9781851777334

THE FIFTIES Sue Prichard £7.99 HB 9781851775859

INDIAN FLORALS Rosemary Crill £7.99 HB 9781851775866

WILLIAM MORRIS Linda Parry £7.99 HB 9781851775842

GARDEN FLORALS Antonia Brodie £7.99 HB 9781851775880

KIMONO Anna Jackson £7.99 HB 9781851776061

NOVELTY PATTERNS Valerie D. Mendes £7.99 HB 9781851775897

OWEN JONES Abraham Thomas £7.99 HB 9781851776054

CHINESE TEXTILES Yueh-Siang Chang £7.99 HB 9781851776221

POP PATTERNS Oriole Cullen £7.99 HB 9781851776368

SPITALFIELDS SILKS Moira Thunder £7.99 HB 9781851776351

WALTER CRANE Esmé Whittaker £7.99 HB 9781851776375

HEAL’S Mary Schoeser £7.99 HB 9781851776801

LIBERTY & CO. Anna Buruma £7.99 HB 9781851776795

MODERN BRITISH DESIGNERS Samantha Erin Safer £7.99 HB 9781851776818

SANDERSON 1954–74 Mary Schoeser £7.99 HB 9781851776825

july–december 2014 stationery 27

V&A DIARY 2015 These illustrated week-to-view diaries have been produced to mark the V&A’s autumn 2014 exhibition on the work of Horst P. Horst, who epitomized the interconnections between art, fashion and high society (see page 8).

During his 60-year career at Vogue, Horst photographed fashions by the world’s leading designers and his exquisite images launched the careers of many of the twentieth century’s star models. His early black-and-white images, taken in Paris, depict women such as Lisa Fonssagrives and Helen Bennett in creations by couturiers including Chanel, Schiaparelli, Vionnet and Lanvin.

JUNE BIC: WZS DIARIES / GIFT

DESK DIARY £11.99 flexibound ISBN 9781851777921 224 × 190 mm 120pp

EDWARD BAWDEN DIARY Originally produced in 1953, this perpetual week-to-view diary features a line drawing

by Edward Bawden (1903–1989) on every spread.

Delightful sketches of London landmarks such as Buckingham Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster Abbey feature alongside rural and urban scenes including village cricket in Essex, bicycles in Oxford, rooftops in Brighton, the waterside in Ipswich and academic life in Cambridge.

JUNE £10.00 clothbound ISBN 9781851778188 165 × 125 mm 128 pp BIC: WZS DIARIES / GIFT 28 stationery july–december 2014

POCKET DIARY £6.99 flexibound ISBN 9781851777938 135 × 115 mm 120pp

THE HOUSE OF WORTH Portrait of an Archive Amy de la Haye & Valerie D. Mendes

RECENT HIGHLIGHTS & BESTSELLERS

MARCH £35.00 HB ISBN 9781851777747 310 x 240 mm 176pp 300 col BIC: AKT FASHION

Profusely illustrated, this monograph explores the House of Worth’s success in the realms of haute couture after 1890. Hundreds of photographs selected from the V&A’s unique archive of over 7,000 official house records capture the Worth style and offer fascinating insights into the daily routine at Maison Worth.

These remarkable photographs are flanked by chapters that tell the intriguing story of their aquisition and their historical context, and describe Worth’s international clientele of elegant women of wealth and power, from Lillie Langtry and Sarah Bernhardt to the Duchess of Marlborough (formerly Consuelo Vanderbilt). y de la Haye is Professor of Dress History and Curatorship, Rootstein Hopkins Chair at London College of Fashion. She is author of Lucile Ltd (with Valerie Mendes, V&A 2009) and Chanel: Couture and Industry (V&A 2011).

She is also author of the two Clara Button books for children (V&A 2011, 2013). Valerie D. Mendes, formerly Head of Fashion and Textiles at the V&A, is a freelance fashion and textiles historian. She has curated various exhibitions including Zika Ascher, Pierre Cardin, John French and Ferragamo and is the author of numerous books including Black in Fashion (V&A 1999) V&A Pattern: Novelty Fabrics (V&A 2010) and Fashion Since 1900 (with Amy de la Haye, 1999).

july-december 2014 new titles 29

THE GLAMOUR OF ITALIAN FASHION SINCE 1945 Sonnet Stanfill, ed.

THE HOUSE OF WORTH Amy de la Haye & Valerie D. Mendes

DAVID BOWIE IS Victoria Broackes & Geoffrey Marsh, eds

Published in six languages

£35.00 HB ISBN 9781851777761 310 × 240 mm 288pp 250 col BIC: AKT, AKTH FASHION

£35.00 HB ISBN 9781851777747 310 × 240 mm 160pp 300 col BIC: AKT FASHION

£35.00 HB ISBN 9781851777372 310 × 240 mm 320pp 300 col BIC: AKT / AV MUSIC / FASHION

MASTERPIECES OF CHINESE PAINTING 700 – 1900 Zhang Hongxing, ed.

‘Full of ravishingly beautiful paintings’ The Art Newspaper ‘The world’s oldest painting tradition explored in this glorious catalogue’ Financial Times ‘Revelation after revelation’ The Daily Telegraph £40.00 HB ISBN 9781851777563 287 × 247 mm 360pp 400 col BIC: ACBP, AFC ART HISTORY

30 recent highlights july–december 2014

MODERN BRITISH FURNITURE THE ART OF DRAWING Design since 1945

British Masters and Methods since 1600

Lesley Jackson

Susan Owens

‘For twentieth-century design buffs, the publication of this new book is very welcome’ House & Garden

‘An expertly descriptive and sumptuously illustrated study of the art and craft of drawing’ The Art Newspaper

‘Unpicks the importance of craft to contemporary British design’ Crafts Magazine

‘A beautiful book’ Art Quarterly

£40.00 HB ISBN: 9781851777594 270 × 216 mm 320pp 300 col BIC: AKR DESIGN

£30.00 HB ISBN: 9781851777587 287 × 220mm 208pp 155 col BIC: AC, AFF ART HISTORY

EDWARD BAWDEN’S KEW GARDENS

WILLIAM MORRIS TEXTILES

Peyton Skipwith & Brian Webb

Linda Parry

£20.00 HB ISBN 9781851777792 229 × 148 mm 112pp 100 col BIC: AK, WT ART & DESIGN / LONDON INTEREST

£35.00 HB ISBN 9781851777327 270 × 216 mm 320pp 275 col BIC: AFW DESIGN / TEXTILES

july–december 2014 recent highlights 31

THE GOLDEN AGE OF COUTURE Claire Wilcox, ed.

‘This lavish volume showcases stunning gowns and exquisite tailoring … the perfect gift for fashionistas everywhere’ Woman & Home ‘A lavish book filled with gorgeous images, captures a time when dressing was an elegant art’ Elle ‘This glossy book provides an entrancing, detailed glimpse into the lost world of post-war couture’ Independent £24.99 PB ISBN 9781851775217 310 × 240 mm 224pp 97 col and 80 b&w BIC: AKT FASHION

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Claire Wilcox

NINETEENTH-CENTURY FASHION IN DETAIL Lucy Johnston

‘This is one fashion book that every Anglomaniac should have’ Drapers £19.99 PB ISBN 9781851774050 287 × 247 mm 224pp 260 col and 30 b&w BIC: AKT FASHION

32 bestsellers july–december 2014

‘The garments spring from the page’ The Daily Telegraph ‘The ultimate inspiration’ In Style £25.00 PB ISBN 9781851775729 300 × 230 mm 224pp 150 col BIC: AKT FASHION

THE LITTLE DICTIONARY OF FASHION

ABC OF MEN’S FASHION Hardy Amies

Christian Dior

£9.99 clothbound ISBN 9781851775569 178 × 129 mm 128pp BIC: WJF FASHION

£9.99 clothbound ISBN 9781851775552 178 × 129 mm 128pp BIC: WJF FASHION

‘It’s 60 years since Christian Dior invented ‘the new look’ - here’s some of his straighttalking advice that still holds true’ In Style

‘An invaluable handbook of sartorial – and somehow moral – excellence’ Ben Schott ‘An indispensable style guide’ GQ ‘Required reading’ Arena

EDWARD BAWDEN’S LONDON Peyton Skipwith & Brian Webb

£20.00 HB ISBN 9781851776559 270 × 216 mm 160pp 190 col BIC: AK, WT ART & DESIGN / TRAVEL

‘A delightful, beautifully designed and fascinating book’ Country Life ‘Peyton Skipwith is thoroughly at home with his subject and the book is handsomely served by plentiful illustrations’ World of Interiors

HIGH STREET J.M. Richards, illustrations

by Eric Ravilious

£20.00 HB ISBN 9781851776894 229 × 148 mm 112pp 24 col, BIC: AKLB DESIGN / GIFT

‘This facsimile edition brings the charming shop fronts roaring back to life’ Time Out

july–december 2014 bestsellers 33

FASHION

80s FASHION From Club to Catwalk Sonnet Stanfill, ed £19.99 PB 9781851777259

400 YEARS OF FASHION Natalie Rothstein £19.99 PB 9781851773015

THE AMBASSADOR MAGAZINE Breward & Wilcox, eds £35.00 HB 9781851776771

ART DECO FASHION Suzanne Lussier £8.99 PB 9781851775651

BALENCIAGA Lesley Ellis Miller £19.99 PB 9781851775224

BALLGOWNS Cullen & Stanfill £14.99 PB 9781851777464

BALLGOWNS Cullen & Stanfill £20.00 HB 9781851776849

BLACK STYLE Carol Tulloch, ed £19.95 PB 9781851774241

BRITISH ASIAN STYLE Breward, Crang & Crill, eds £24.99 PB 9781851776191

CHANEL Amy de la Haye £19.99 PB 9781851776436

CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA Miren Arzalluz £30.00 HB 9781851776634

THE DAY OF THE PEACOCK STYLE FOR MEN 1963–1973 Geoffrey Aquilina Ross £24.99 HB 9781851776009

DIOR Alexandra Palmer £19.99 PB 9781851775781

FASHION AND ARMOUR IN RENAISSANCE EUROPE Angus Patterson £19.99 HB 9781851775811

FASHION V SPORT Ligaya Salazar, ed. £19.99 PB 9781851775330

FEAR AND FASHION In the Cold War Jane Pavitt £19.99 PB 9781851775446

34 published titles july–december 2014

BESTSELLER

BESTSELLER V&A GALLERY OF FASHION Wilcox & Lister £14.99 PB 9781851777525

THE GOLDEN AGE OF COUTURE Claire Wilcox, ed £24.99 PB 9781851775217

GRACE KELLY STYLE Haughland with Lister & Safer £14.99 PB 9781851776993

HATS: AN ANTHOLOGY Jones & Cullen £14.99 PB 9781851776887 £200 SP ED 9781851775743

HORROCKSES FASHIONS Christine Boydell £24.99 HB 9781851776016

IMPERIAL CHINESE ROBES Ming Wilson, ed £30.00 HB 9781851776207

LUCILE LTD Valerie D. Mendes & Amy de la Haye £35.00 HB 9781851775613

MAGNIFICENCE OF THE TSARS Svetlana A. Amelekhina £19.99 PB 9781851776047

NEW YORK FASHION Sonnet Stanfill £30.00 HB 9781851774999

SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY WOMEN’S DRESS PATTERNS BOOK ONE North & Tiramani, eds £35.00 HB 9781851776313

SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY WOMEN’S DRESS PATTERNS: BOOK TWO North & Tiramani, eds £35.00 HB 9781851776856

STYLE AND SPLENDOUR Kjellberg & North £30.00 HB 9781851774548

BESTSELLER

THE SURREAL BODY Ghislaine Wood £12.99 PB 9781851775026

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Claire Wilcox £19.99 PB 9781851774050

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Ligaya Salazar, ed £35.00 HB 9781851776276

july–december 2014 published titles 35

FASHION IN DETAIL BESTSELLER

FASHION IN DETAIL 1700-2000 Claire Wilcox £55.00 HB 9781851777686

NINETEENTH-CENTURY FASHION IN DETAIL Lucy Johnston £25.00 PB 9781851775729

BESTSELLER

SEVENTEENTH AND EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY FASHION IN DETAIL Hart & North £25.00 PB 9781851775675

TWENTIETH-CENTURY FASHION IN DETAIL Wilcox & Mendes £20.00 PB 9781851775712

STYLE GUIDES & AUTOBIOGRAPHIES

WORLD DRESS FASHION IN DETAIL Crill, Wearden & Wilson, eds £19.99 PB 9781851775682

A TO Z OF STYLE Amy de la Haye, ed. £9.99 HB 9781851776528 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777433

BESTSELLER

A TO Z OF HOLLYWOOD STYLE Sinty Stemp, ed. £9.99 HB 9781851777112 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777440

ABC OF MEN’S FASHION Hardy Amies £9.99 HB 9781851775569

BESTSELLER

THE ART OF BEING A WELL DRESSED WIFE Anne Fogarty £9.99 HB 9781851776306 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777457

HOW TO DRESS FOR SUCCESS Edith Head & Joe Hyams £9.99 HB 9781851775545 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777426

THE LITTLE DICTIONARY OF FASHION Christian Dior £9.99 HB 9781851775552 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777419

DIOR BY DIOR Christian Dior £8.99 PB 9781851775170 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776719

FROM A TO BIBA Barbara Hulanicki £8.99 PB 9781851775149 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776696

KING OF FASHION Paul Poiret £8.99 PB 9781851775644 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776726

QUANT BY QUANT Mary Quant £8.99 PB 9781851776672 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776689

SHOCKING LIFE Elsa Schiaparelli £8.99 PB 9781851775156 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776702

36 published titles july–december 2014

JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES

BAGS Claire Wilcox £8.99 PB 9781851775361

SHOES Lucy Pratt & Linda Woolley £8.99 PB 9781851775378

INDIAN JEWELLERY Nick Barnard £24.99 HB 9781851774838

INDIAN JEWELLERY Nick Barnard £24.99 HB 9781851774838

BESTSELLER

JEWELS & JEWELLERY Clare Phillips £19.99 PB 9781851775354

MEDIEVAL JEWELLERY Marian Campbell £19.99 HB 9781851775828

PEARLS Chadour-Sampson & Bari £25.00 HB 9781851777556

TIARAS Geoffrey Munn £8.99 PB 9781851775347

TEXTILES

TRADITIONAL JEWELLERY In Nineteenth-Century Europe Jane Perry £30.00 HB 9781851777297

ALASTAIR MORTON AND EDINBURGH WEAVERS Lesley Jackson £45.00 HB 9781851776603

ART DECO TEXTILES Charlotte Samuels £19.99 PB 9781851773916

BRITISH TEXTILES Linda Parry et al. £45.00 HB 9781851776184

CHINESE TEXTILES Verity Wilson £30.00 HB 9781851774388

CHINTZ Rosemary Crill £30.00 HB 9781851775323

IRANIAN TEXTILES Jennifer Wearden & Patricia Baker £30.00 HB 9781851776153

MEDIEVAL LIFE AND LEISURE Linda Woolley £19.95 PB 9781851773763

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

july–december 2014 published titles 37

BESTSELLER SAMPLERS Browne & Wearden £19.99 PB 9781851772902

MUSLIN Sonia Ashmore £30.00 HB 9781851777143

QUILTS 1700–2010 Sue Prichard, ed £25.00 PB 9781851776085

RENAISSANCE VELVETS Lisa Monnas £35.00 HB 9781851776856

TEXTILES AND DRESS OF GUJARAT Eiluned Edwards £35.00 HB 9781851776450

TOILES DE JOUY Sarah Grant £30.00 HB 9781851776177

WILLIAM MORRIS TEXTILES Linda Parry £35.00 HB 9781851777327

CARVINGS, CASTS & COLLECTORS Motture, Jones & Zikos, eds £35.00 HB 9781851776405

CHINESE JADES Ming Wilson £30.00 HB 9781851774418

EUROPEAN SCULPTURE Paul Williamson, ed £25.00 HB 9781851771738

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

MEDIEVAL IVORY CARVINGS Paul Williamson £85.00 HB 9781851776122

NETHERLANDISH SCULPTURE 1450–1550 Paul Williamson £25.00 HB 9781851773732

SCULPTURE

BAROQUE & LATER IVORIES Marjorie Trusted £85.00 HB 9781851777679 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

INDIAN TEMPLE SCULPTURE John Guy £35.00 HB 9781851775095

THE MAKING OF SCULPTURE Marjorie Trusted, ed £24.99 PB 9781851775071

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

38 published titles july–december 2014

CERAMICS & GLASS

CHINESE CERAMICS Stacey Pierson £30.00 HB 9781851775767

EUROPEAN CERAMICS Robin Hildyard £19.99 PB 9781851772605 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

CHINESE EXPORT CERAMICS Kerr, Mengoni & Wilson £30.00 HB 9781851776320

FRENCH PORCELAIN OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY Christopher Maxwell £9.99 PB 9781851776092

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL GLASS Jennifer Hawkins Opie £30.00 HB 9781851774265

ENGLISH POTTERY 1620–1840 Robin Hildyard £50.00 HB 9781851774425

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ITALIAN RENAISSANCE MAIOLICA Sani & Liefkes, eds £30.00 HB 9781851777068

JAPANESE CLOISONNÉ Gregory Irvine £30.00 HB 9781851774821

MASTERPIECES OF WORLD CERAMICS Liefkes & Young, eds £30.00 HB 9781851775279

MEDIEVAL AND RENAISSANCE STAINED GLASS Paul Williamson £30.00 HB 9781851774036 £19.95 PB 9781851775177

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

JAPANESE CLOISONNÉ ENAMELS Gregory Irvine £9.99 PB 9781851776573

LOOKING AT GLASS Hess & Wight £12.99 PB 9781851774609

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

PRINTS

IN BLACK AND WHITE Saunders & Whitley £19.99 PB 9781851777549

PRINTS NOW Gill & Miles £30.00 HB 9781851774807

STREET ART Riikka Kuittinen £14.99 PB 9781851776252

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

july–december 2014 published titles 39

GRAPHIC DESIGN

A CENTURY OF OLYMPIC POSTERS (NEW EDITION) Margaret Timmers £19.99 PB 9781851776986

BRAND.NEW Jane Pavitt, ed £19.95 PB 9781851773244

BRITISH POSTERS Catherine Flood £19.99 PB 9781851776764

E. MCKNIGHT KAUFFER Mark Haworth-Booth £24.99 PB 9781851774661

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ART & DESIGN BESTSELLER

EDWARD BAWDEN’S LONDON Skipwith & Webb £20.00 HB 9781851776559

FRANK PICK’S LONDON Oliver Green £25.00 HB 9781851777570

MEMORY PALACE Hari Kunzru With Britton Newell & Salazar £12.99 HB 9781851777365 £11.99 E-BOOK 9781851777693

THE ARTS OF SPAIN: Iberia and Latin America 1450–1700 Marjorie Trusted £40.00 HB 9781851775231 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

AWARD WINNING BRITISH DESIGN Lily Crowther £14.99 PB 9781851776733

BAROQUE Style in the Age of Magnificence Snodin & Llewellyn, eds £25.00 PB 9781851775910

BRITISH DESIGN FROM 1948 Breward & Wood, eds £40.00 HB 9781851776740

CHINA DESIGN NOW Zhang & Parker, eds £24.99 PB 9781851775316

THE CULT OF BEAUTY Calloway & Federle Orr, eds £40.00 HB 9781851776283

DEATH AND ART Europe 1200–1530 Eleanor Townsend £14.99 HB 9781851775835

GRINLING GIBBONS And the Art of Carving David Esterly £19.99 PB 9781851772568

INTERNATIONAL ARTS AND CRAFTS Livingstone & Parry, eds £40.00 HB 9781851774463 £24.99 PB 9781851774456

40 published titles july–december 2014

ISLAMIC ARTS FROM SPAIN Mariam Rosser-Owen £30.00 HB 9781851775989

JAPANESE ART AND DESIGN Joe Earle, ed £19.99 PB 9781851775620

JAPANESE NETSUKE Julia Hutt £30.00 HB 9781851777020

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

MEDIEVAL AND RENAISSANCE TREASURES Williamson & Motture £14.99 HB 9781851776030

KOREAN ART AND DESIGN Beth McKillop £16.95 PB 9781851771042 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

MODERNISM Christopher Wilk, ed. £45.00 HB 9781851774746 £24.99 PB 9781851774777

POSTMODERNISM Adamson & Pavitt, eds £40.00 HB 9781851776597

PRINCELY TREASURES Medlam & Miller, eds £19.99 HB 9781851776337

INTERIORS

SURREAL THINGS Ghislaine Wood, ed. £40.00 HB 9781851775002 £24.99 PB 9781851775019

TREASURES OF THE ROYAL COURTS Murdoch & Dmitrieva, eds £30.00 HB 9781851777310

21 | TWENTY ONE Gareth Williams £19.99 PB 9781851776788

CIVIL DEFENCE HANDBOOK NO. 10 HMSO £4.99 HB 9781851775422

DESIGN AND THE DECORATIVE ARTS: Tudor and Stuart Britain Michael Snodin & John Styles £19.95 PB 9781851774203

DESIGN AND THE DECORATIVE ARTS: Georgian Britain Michael Snodin & John Styles £19.95 PB 9781851774210

DESIGN AND THE DECORATIVE ARTS: Victorian Britain Michael Snodin & John Styles £19.95 PB 9781851774227

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ARTISTIC CIRCLES Charlotte Gere £35.00 HB 9781851776023 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

july–december 2014 published titles 41

THE FURNITURE MACHINE Furniture since 1990 Gareth Williams £35.00 HB 9781851774944

INSIDE THE RENAISSANCE HOUSE Elizabeth Currie £14.99 HB 9781851774906

LUXURY GOODS FROM INDIA Amin Jaffer £30.00 HB 9781851773817

MODERN BRITISH FURNITURE Lesley Jackson £40.00 HB 9781851777594

THE MODERNIST HOME Tim Benton £14.99 HB 9781851774760

ORIENTAL CARPETS AND THEIR STRUCTURE Jennifer Wearden £30.00 HB 9781851774111

RENAISSANCE SECRETS Jo Wheeler £19.99 HB 9781851775774

SILVER Philippa Glanville, ed. £16.95 PB 9781851771899

TEA: EAST AND WEST Rupert Faulkner, ed. £12.99 HB 9781851773985

TILES AND TILEWORK Alun Graves £19.95 PB 9781851773558

SURREAL PEOPLE Alexander Klar £12.99 PB 9781851775033

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

TIPU’S TIGERS Susan Stronge £12.99 HB 9781851775750

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

THEATRE & PERFORMANCE

BESTSELLER WESTERN FURNITURE Christopher Wilk £39.95 HB 9781851773725

DAVID BOWIE IS Broackes & Marsh, eds £35.00 HB 9781851777372

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

42 published titles july–december 2014

DIAGHILEV AND THE GOLDEN AGE OF THE BALLETS RUSSES 1909–1929 Pritchard & Marsh, eds £35.00 HB 9781851776139

HOLLYWOOD COSTUME Deborah Nadoolman Landis, ed. £35.00 HB 9781851777099 £25.00 PB 9781851777105

PHOTOGRAPHY

HALFWAY TO PARADISE Photographs by Harry Hammond | Alwyn W Turner £20.00 HB 9781851775538

MY GENERATION Photographs by Harry Goodwin | Alwyn W Turner £24.99 HB 9781851775972

CLARA BUTTON AND THE MAGICAL HAT DAY De la Haye & Sutton £10.99 HB 9781851776580 £5.99 PB 9781851777129

CLARA BUTTON & THE WEDDING DAY SURPRISE De la Haye & Sutton £11.99 HB 9781851777006

DICTIONARY OF CHILDREN’S CLOTHES Noreen Marshall £30.00 HB 9781851775477

EDWARD BAWDEN COLOURING BOOK £5.99 PB 9781851777266

MUSEUM OF CHILDHOOD Sarah Wood £9.99 PB 9781851777037

GLAM ROCK Alwyn W Turner £30.00 HB 9781851777648

QUEEN ELIZABETH II Susanna Brown £19.99 HB 9781851776542

CHILDREN’S

BESTSELLER

PAINTINGS & DRAWINGS

THE ART OF DRAWING Susan Owens £30.00 HB 9781851777587

BRITISH WATERCOLOURS Katherine Coombs £25.00 HB 9781851777075

HIGH STREET Ravilious & Richards £20.00 HB 9781851776894

IMAGES OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE Charles Newton £30.00 HB 9781851775057 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

july–december 2014 published titles 43

JOHN CONSTABLE: OIL SKETCHES Mark Evans £25.00 HB 9781851776269

KALIGHAT PAINTINGS Suhashini Sinha £14.99 PB 9781851776658

RECORDING BRITAIN Gill Saunders, ed. £30.00 HB 9781851776610

WESTERN ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS

Rowan Watson £250.00 HB 9781851776498 3–VOLUME SLIPCASE ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

MASTERPIECES OF CHINESE PAINTING 700-1900 Zhang Hongxing, ed. £40.00 HB 9781851777563

THE PORTRAIT MINIATURE IN ENGLAND | Coombs £19.99 PB 9781851772070

THE PAINTED WORLD Mark Evans £30.00 HB 9781851774678

RAPHAEL: CARTOONS AND TAPESTRIES FOR THE SISTINE CHAPEL | Mark Evans £14.99 HB 9781851776344

OUT OF THE ORDINARY Spectacular Craft Laurie Britton Newell £24.99 PB 9781851775248

PATCHWORK FOR BEGINNERS Sue Prichard £7.99 HB 9781851775965

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

CRAFT

HANDMADE IN BRITAIN Jo Norman £25.00 HB 9781851777082

KNITTING Sandy Black £35.00 HB 9781851775590

ABOUT THE MUSEUM

THE GREAT EXHIBITOR Bonython & Burton £35.00 HB 9781851773268

THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM Lucy Trench £20.00 HB 9781851775088

44 published titles july–december 2014

V&A PATTERN BOX SETS – SEE PAGE 27 FOR INDIVIDUAL TITLES

BOX-SET II £30.00 9781851776078 OWEN JONES / KIMONO / NOVELTY PATTERNS / GARDEN FLORALS

BOX-SET III £30.00 9781851776382 POP PATTERNS / CHINESE TEXTILES / WALTER CRANE / SPITALFIELDS SILKS

BOX-SET IV £30.00 9781851776832 MODERN BRITISH DESIGNERS / LIBERTY & CO. / HEAL’S / SANDERSON

DESIGNERS BOX-SET V £30.00 9781851777341 WILLIAM MORRIS / OWEN JONES / WALTER CRANE / C.F.A. VOYSEY

V&A PUBLISHING AWARDS & PRIZES DAVID BOWIE IS Collector’s Edition Victoria Broackes and Geoffrey Marsh, eds Winner in the Limited Edition & Fine Binding category of the 2013 British Book Design & Production Awards HOLLYWOOD COSTUME Deborah Nadoolman Landis Best Moving Image Book in the 2013 Kraszna-Krausz Book Awards DIOR: A New Look, A New Enterprise Alexandra Palmer Winner of the 2010 Costume Society of America Millia Davenport Publication Award HATS: An Anthology Special Edition Stephen Jones and Oriole Cullen winner in the Limited Edition & Fine Binding category of the 2009 British Book Design & Production Awards GOTHIC: ART FOR ENGLAND 1400 – 1547 Paul Williamson Winner of The Art Newspaper / AXA Art Exhibition Catalogue Award, 2004 ESSENTIAL ART DECO Ghislaine Wood Best Museum Publication in the 2003 Museum Trading Association Awards SPANISH SCULPTURE Marjorie Trusted Winner of the 1998 Eleanor Tufts Award from the American Society for Hispanic Art Historical Studies

july–december 2014 awards & prizes 45

SPRING 2014 – JUST OUT

ALEC COBBE: Designs for Historic Interiors Julius Bryant £12.99 PB 9781851777723

IMAGINED INTERIORS Aynsley & Grant £45.00 HB 9781851774920 £24.99 PB 9781851774937

THE HOUSE OF WORTH De la Haye & Mendes £35.00 HB 9781851777747

UNDERWEAR FASHION IN DETAIL Eleri Lynn £25.00 PB 9781851777846

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

THE GLAMOUR OF ITALIAN FASHION SINCE 1945 Sonnet Stanfill £35.00 HB 9781851777761

THE ORIGINS OF ITALIAN FASHION 1900–45 Sofia Gnoli £19.99 PB 9781851777914

A RAILWAY ABC Jack Townend £5.99 HB 9781851777778

A STORY ABOUT DUCKS Jack Townend £4.99 HB 9781851777785

EDWARD BAWDEN’S KEW GARDENS Skipwith & Webb £20.00 HB 9781851777792

SELLING SILKS Lesley Ellis Miller £35.00 HB 9781851777815

THE WEDDING DRESS Edwina Ehrman £35.oo HB 9781851778133 £25.00 PB 9781851777839

A TO Z OF WEDDING STYLE Kate Bethune £9.99 HB 9781851777822

RINGS Rachel Church £8.99 PB 9781851777853

VINCENNES & EARLY SÈVRES PORCELAIN Joanna Gwilt £60.00 HB 9781851777730

DUTCH & FLEMISH DRAWINGS Shoaf Turner, White & Evans £200.00 2–VOLUME SLIPCASE HB 9781851777877

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

A FLOWER WEDDING

DECORATED BY

Walter Crane

A FLOWER WEDDING Walter Crane £8.99 HB 9781851777884

46 spring 2014 just out july–december 2014

AUTUMN 2014 – AT A GLANCE

DISOBEDIENT OBJECTS Flood & Grindon, eds £19.99 PB 9781851777976

MEDIEVAL IVORY CARVINGS 1200–1550 Williamson & Davies £150 2–VOL SLIPCASE HB 9781851778119

HORST: Photographer of Style Susanna Brown £40.00 HB 9781851778010

SURREAL THINGS Ghislaine Wood, ed. £24.99 PB 9781851775019

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

t he m ak ing of a m a s ter

John Constable

THE BIBA YEARS 1963–1975

BARBARA HULANICKI AND MARTIN PEL

THE BIBA YEARS: 1963–1975 Hulanicki & Pel £35.00 HB 9781851777990

ART NOUVEAU FASHION Clare Rose £25.00 HB 9781851778027

STYLE AND SATIRE Flood & Grant £12.99 PB 9781851778034

JOHN CONSTABLE: The Making of a Master Mark Evans £30.00 HB 9781851778003

DOLLS’ HOUSE COLOURING BOOK Emily Sutton £5.99 PB 9781851778058

CLARA BUTTON AND THE WEDDING DAY SURPRISE De la Haye & Sutton £5.99 PB 9781851778065

THE ARTS OF LIVING: Europe 1600–1814 Miller & Young, eds £25.00 HB 9781851778072

WORD & IMAGE Bryant, James & Watson £25.00 HB 9781851778089

Dolls’ Houses from the V&A Museum of Childhood Halina Pasierbska

V&A PATTERN: 100 POSTCARDS £14.99 Box Set 9781851778157

DOLLS’ HOUSES Halina Pasierbska £14.99 PB 9781851778041

EMBROIDERY DESIGNS FOR FASHION AND FURNISHING Moira Thunder

FINNISH DESIGN: A Concise History Pekka Korvenmaa £30.00 HB 9781851778126

EMBROIDERY DESIGNS Moira Thunder £19.99 PB 9781851778140

july–december 2014 at a glance 47

V&A EXHIBITION AND DISPLAY PROGRAMME THE GLAMOUR OF ITALIAN FASHION 1945–2014 5 April to 27 July 2014

CONSTABLE: The Making of a Master 20 September 2014 to 11 January 2015

THE WEDDING DRESS: 1775–2014 3 May 2014 to 15 March 2015

SMALL STORIES: Dolls’ Houses and the History of the Home 13 December 2014 to 6 September 2015

DISOBEDIENT OBJECTS 26 July 2014 to 1 February 2015 HORST: Photographer of Style 6 September 2014 to 4 January 2015

IN BLACK & WHITE 29 November 2014 to 6 June 2015 EUROPE GALLERIES 1600–1800 Opens 9 December 2014

V&A TOURING EXHIBITIONS DAVID BOWIE IS Museum of Image and Sound, São Paulo 28 January to 21 April 2014 Martin Gropius Bau, Berlin 19 May to 24 August 2014 MCA, Chicago 20 September 2014 to 4 January 2015 HOLLYWOOD COSTUME Phoenix Art Museum 26 March 2014 to 6 July 2014

UNDRESSED: 350 Years of Underwear in Fashion Bendigo Art Gallery 19 July to 26 October 2014 Queensland Museum Australia 12 November 2014 to 1 February 2015 RECORDING BRITIAN Millennium Galleries Sheffield 2 April to 2 November 2014 THE GLAMOUR OF ITALIAN FASHION 1945–2014 Minneapolis Institute of Art 26 October 2014 to 4 January 2015

48 v&a exhibition & display programme and v&a touring exhibitions july–december 2014

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