MILK STREET

Christopher Kimball

Tomato Conserva

Tomato conserva may range from sweet and jammy to savory and richly oily. Ours is rich and savory, with a velvety texture, perfect for smearing on bread or tossing with pasta. We developed this recipe with cherry or grape tomatoes, which tend to be reliably good no matter the season. We found simmering them in a generous amount of olive oil was the best way to render the fruits silky-tender and concentrate their sweetness. A generous dose of water added to the pot helps the tomatoes break down quickly while preventing their natural sugars from scorching before the mixture reduces to a thick, chunky consistency. The conserva will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week.

TIP: Don't be afraid to cook the tomatoes at a steady boil for the first 30 minutes; large bubbles should rapidly rise to the surface but the mixture shouldn't cook so vigorously that it foams. After 30 minutes, stir frequently to prevent scorching and help break up the tomatoes.

MAKES 2 CUPS

1 HOUR, 30 MINUTES ACTIVE

Ingredients

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

4 pints grape or cherry tomatoes

1 teaspoon white sugar

2 large bay leaves

Kosher salt

Directions

In a large pot over medium, combine the oil and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until the garlic begins to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, sugar, bay and 1 teaspoon salt, then add 2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high, then reduce to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a steady but not too vigorous boil, until the tomatoes have burst and begin sticking to the bottom of the pot, 30 to 35 minutes.

Reduce to medium and continue to cook, stirring frequently and breaking up the tomatoes, until the oil separates to the surface, 20 to 25 minutes. Be sure to scrape the bottom of the pot to prevent scorching.

Remove from the heat and cool for about 5 minutes. (If you prefer a slightly smoother texture, remove and discard the bay, then transfer the mixture to fine mesh strainer set over a medium bowl. Press on the tomato solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Transfer the solids to a cutting board, reserving the liquid in the bowl, then chop with a chef 's knife to the desired smoothness. Return the tomatoes to the bowl and stir to recombine.) Transfer to a pint-size jar, cool completely and cover tightly. Refrigerate for up to 1 week.