Tech file frock coat

““bRIAN”

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Contents...

Specification Sheet

4.

Final Pattern Pieces

5.

Pattern Drafting and Adaptation

6-7.

Alterations From Toiles

8-10.

Layplanning and Cutting

11.

Canvasses

12.

Linings

13.

Double Jet Pockets

14-15.

Canvassing

16-17.

In Breast Pockets

18-19.

Under Collar

20-21.

Top Collar

22.

Sleeve Construction

23.

Construction

24-27.

Inserting Sleeves

28-29

Finishing

30-31

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Abigail Hardie A/W ‘15

Brian Coat

Measurements Chest- 100cm Scye Depth- 24.4cm Natural Waist Length- 44.2cm Neck Size- 40cm Half Back- 20cm Jacket Length55cm

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Sleeve Length82cm

Cloth- Laminated Wool 150cm Wide Dalston Mill Fabrics

Cuff Size- 29.2cm

Lining- Viscose Twill 150cm Wide Bernstein & Banleys

Final Pattern Pieces

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Pattern Drafting and FINAL Adaptation

I drafted a single-breasted classic suit jacket block from Aldrich’s, ‘Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear’ using measurements for a 38” chest.

Chest- 100cm Scye Depth- 24.4cm Natural Waist Length44.2cm Neck Size- 40cm Half Back- 20cm Jacket Length- 57cm

The Coat has a twopiece sleeve, also drafted from the Aldrich book.

Sleeve Length- 82cm Cuff Size- 29.2cm

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1.

The coat is adapted from a slim fitting single-breasted pattern, which has been lengthened by 16cm.

The front edge is no longer curved but a straight 90-degree angle.

3.

The lapel is a wide peaked lapel rather than a notched lapel, the peak of the lapel has been dropped by 3cm.

4.

The side cut has been removed.

5.

The back is split in to two, the upper part with a CB seam to the waist with 1cm seam allowance.

Final Adaptation

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6.

The lower part doesn’t have side vents but a wide off center 6cm vent.

7.

The back body has been slimmed in further.

8.

The side seams are slightly flared out.

9.

The sleeves have no working cuff; they are flared out at the cuff on the topsleeve and undersleeve with a slight open vent.

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Toile Alterations

Toile Fitting Notes

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Fitted OvercoatIssues and Possible Alterations Construction Issues - I didn’t re-mark the CF edge and remove excess inlay before attaching the linen tape and padding the lapels. Therefore there was an excess 5cm around the CF- changing it from a SB to a double-breasted coat. Also there was an extra 4cm around the lapel, which wasn’t removed, therefore making the lapels much larger than originally anticipated.

- The sleeve flares out at the cuff, the shape of the cuff made it difficult to hem properly.

Alteration/ Adaptation Ideas Forepart - The shape of the coat has changed from the initial design while toiling due to me not removing the inlay from the CF and lapel, I like the new shape as it is similar to the Peacock DB coats from the 60’s which I have looked at in my research.

- The coat doesn’t currently have any pockets as I didn’t want to have them visible from the front, however now that I can see it physically, I can see that I could have in seam pockets (similar to those used in the cropped SB) where the front darts are, which would still be invisible.

Side Body - When adapting the pattern I shaped the bottom back panels and the side body panels where they joined from the waist to the hem, this was to create a silhouette, which flared out from the waist. When I toiled it, the fabric wasn’t thick enough to hold the shape on its own so it just caved in, I then tried taking the panels in so they were less flared, it helped slightly but still didn’t look right. I will change the pattern to remove the flaring and make it more natural in appearance.

Sleeves - I flared the sleeves out originally after seeing a 60s garment with similar sleeves at the v&a, when I toiled it I found it didn’t really work with how I was toiling them and also with the oversized lapels it was just too much.

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Fittings Feedback

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LAYPLANNING AND CUTTING Firstly, press cloth thoroughly to allow for shrinkage, fold in half right sides in.

Lay pieces in the most economical way considering both the inlay amounts required as well as the directional pile and the grain line of the cloth.

Transfer all markings from pieces on to the cloth.

1.5cm on the arm 5cm for center vent 5cm along the hem

Inlays Forepart 3cm along the 2cm along the top of lapel 1cm along the 5cm along the

CF shoulder and

Topsleeve 5cm on the hem

side seam hem

Undersleeve 3cm along the longer edge 2cm around the arm from the pitch 5cm on the hem

Side Body 1cm along front side seam 3cm along the back, NO VENT 1.5cm along back armhole 5cm along the hem Back (2 Sections) 3cm along the CB 2cm on the neck

Cut out all pieces and mark stitch.

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CANVASSES 1.

Steam the Body and chest canvasses and press the domette.

2. Place the forepart on the

body canvas Chalk around the front and around the back of the arm.

At the hem, mark mid pocket point/dart point.

Shape the canvas around the ribs from the back of the arm down to the bottom point.

Body

Chest

3.

Mark the breakline and button point on to the canvas.

4.

Body

Take the chest canvas and place it on the body canvas so that the grain line is sitting parallel to the breakline, 1cm behind it.

Chest

Cut it so that it sits 1� above the buttonhole mark, straight across and around the armhole.

Domette

5.

Place the chest canvas on the domette on the bias, cut around the chest canvas slightly bigger on all sides apart from the breakline, which needs to be cut so it sits 1cm behind the edge of the chest canvas.

6.

Baste the 3 layers in place.

Pad stitch all 3 layers together

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Body

Linings 2.5cm

5cm

2.5cm

2.5cm

2.5cm

2.5cm

5cm

5cm

2.5cm

Body & Sleeve lining

2.5cm

2.5cm

2.5cm

1cm

5cm

5cm

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Double jet pockets Before the pockets can be put in, the front dart needs to be machined closed and the side body needs to be machined to the forepart, press open the seam.

Mark the pocket placement line on the forepart- measuring 14cm, 2cm in front of the front dart.

Cut 2 pieces of the cloth for the jets, 1 measuring 20 x 4 And another 20 x 5.

Cut on the straight of grain.

Cut a piece of pocketing for the back of the pocket- 20 x 6.5cm Baste it on the wrong side of the cloth along the pocket line.

Place the jets on to the pocket placement line, right sides in. Transfer the pocket marks on to the jets and baste 0.5cm either side of the line.

Machine the jets to the forepart, ensuring that they are both 0.5cm away from the pocket placement line and are completely parallel. They end points of the stitching need to be exactly the same.

Mark 2.5cm in from either end of the pocket - this is where the pocket mitres will be cut from.

Cut down the pocket placement line, at the mitre points cut triangles in to the corners- ensuring that the cuts go right to the edge of the stitching.

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Pull the jets through the cut line to the back of the jacket.

On the back, press open the seam allowances.

Pull the mitres through and press.

Backstitch the jet seam from the front using silk thread.

Press the jets from the front.

Lash the pocket opening closed.

At the back, machine the mitres to the jets to hold them in place.

Cut 2 pieces of pocketing, measuring 20cm wide by 25cm deep.

Attach a cloth facing to one piece.

Machine the pocket bags along the edges of the jets and press seams.

Pin the pocket bag together and machine around to seal it.

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CANVASSING

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1.

2.

3.

4.

Take a strip of lining cut on the straight of grain.

Baste the bridle over the breakline, pulling it tight while basting.

Bridle and Pad Stitching

Baste down around outer edges of the lining down.

Start padding the lapels on the bridle; the first 2 lines should be stitched flat.

Then roll as padding.

The lapel should be padded up to 4cm below the top of the lapel and 5cm in from the edge of the lapel, down to 1� above the button point.

PAD STITCHING SHOULD NOT BE VISIBLE FROM THE FRONT! 17

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IN BREAST POCKETS

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COLLAR

1.

Cut out the collar in both melton and collar canvas- ON BIAS

4.

2.

Machine the melton together and press open the CB seam

5.

3.

6.

Place the melton on the canvas, machine together along the collar stand line.

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Press the collar stand over and stretch the collar with the iron.

Baste around the collar, about 1 inch in from the edges.

Pad stitch the layers together , using the basting marks as a guide as to where. Roll collar as padding.

Take the under collar by the CB and place it on the CB of the jacket so it is sitting along the inlay line, pin in place.

Pull the front of the collar round so that the fold will sit in line with the breakline.

Baste the edge of the under collar to the jacket starting at the CB round to the front.

This will be fell stitched with silk thread.

Put the jacket on the mannequin inside out and cross stitch the cloth around the neck to the collar.

Step By Step

Baste the end of the collar, make sure that it isn’t too tight and altering the breakline- Also ensuring that the collar is sitting at the same point on each side.

Ensure that the under collar is sitting correctly and is sitting in line with the breakline rather than it being too tight and altering the front shape.

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TOP COLLAR

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Sleeve Construction Machine the sleeves together by 1cm on the inside seam.

Press open seam.

N.B. There is a small open vent at the cuff instead of a working cuff Take a piece of bias cut silesia and place it along the hem of the sleeve, baste it flat and securely baste it to the inside sleeve seam.

Stitch outside seam down to the top of the vent, press open the seam.

Fold up the hem and vents in and baste in to place.

Machine the sleeve linings together, baste inside seam to the sleeve inside seam and bag out so it is sitting correctly within the sleeve.

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Attaching Facings

CONSTRUCTIONChalk in the CF line again and cut away excess.

Around the front edge cut away 1cm of the body canvas.

Take a strip of linen 1.5cm wide and cut on the straight of grain.

Baste it around the front edge, pulling it tight while stitching.

Fell the edge of the tape to the body canvas making sure not to go through the cloth.

Place the facing on top of the forepart right sides in.

Baste the facing to the forepart from around the peak of the lapel- trapping in ease around the peak- down the CF to just above the hem.

Machine together using a 1cm seam.

Before turning through, cut away some of the seam allowance on the peak of the lapel, snip in to the seam on the extension point and cutting away some of the seam on the end points of the extensions.

Press open the facing seam.

Turn the facing through to the back, rolling the seam so that it isn’t visible from the front.

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Starting at the bottom of the breakline baste up along the edge of the lapel, 1cm in. Stitching from the back roll the seam to the front so that when it is folded back it will be invisible.

From the bottom of the breakline then baste down towards the hem, again from the back and roll the seam to the back.

Do a 2nd line of basting on the facing 2cm in from the first down the CF.

The 3rd line is the same another few centimeters in from the 2nd.

The 4th line is down the edge of the facing.

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Centre Back Vent

Machine together and press open the CB seam on the top back.

1.

Take the lower back piece and machine together to the top of the vent with a 1cm seam allowance.

1.

5.

2.

Cut in to the seam by 1cm.

3.

Press opens the seam and pull the right side over the left so that the left is over the right on the front.

Baste the top of the vent down and press

2.

6.

3.

4.

Hand stitch the top of the vent in place., baste all edges over and press.

5.

Baste the top and bottom of the back together with a 1cm seam allowance, machine pieces together.

6.

Press open waist seam.

7. Machine back to the foreparts, press open seams.

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4.

Shoulders

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Inserting SLEEVES

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Shoulder Pads

Notes from Norton & Sons N.B. pad and the

The shoulder pad is a 4-ply and sits between the lining the canvas. It is basted to canvas.

Sleeve head roll (with canvas) inserted after sleeves along the seam allowance, from the front pitch to the back pitch.

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Finishing

Once the collar and sleeves are inserted finishing can start, this includes: -Felling in all linings -Hand finishing of collar -Inserting labels -Pressing -Hangers -Buttonholes and Buttons

The woven labels are 6 x 9cm and are hot cut, so they are felled to the lining all around the edge. On this jacket the label is placed just under the collar on the inside lining.

A hanger has been stitched on the inside of the collar.

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Button Holes and Buttons

On the right hand side I have marked the position of the buttonhole as well as the size- for a SB button.

Machine the edges and cut the button holes, attaching gimp thread around the hole.

Stitch around the hole with matching button twist, encasing the gimp thread as you stitch.

Bartack at the end of the button hole.

Turn the jacket inside out and using a chalk pencil, mark through the button holes the position of the button.

Using double thread go through each hole twice and create a button stand shank, wind the thread around it until secure.

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