Tech file fox jacket

“FOX”

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Contents...

Specification Sheet

Final Pattern Pieces

Pattern Drafting and Adaptation

4.

Toile Alterations

8-9.

Layplanning and Cutting

10.

Canvasses

11.

Patch Pockets

12-13.

Canvassing

14-15.

Issues With Facings

16.

Linings

17.

In Breast Pockets

18-19.

Construction - Facings, Sides & Back Vent

20-23.

Under Collar

24-25.

Top Collar

26.

Sleeve Construction

27.

Inserting Sleeves

28-29.

Alterations

30.

Finishing

31-33

5.

6-7.

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Abigail Hardie A/W ‘15

Fox Jacket

Measurements Chest- 100cm Scye Depth- 24.4cm Natural Waist Length- 44.2cm Neck Size- 40cm Half Back- 20cm Jacket Length- 55cm Sleeve Length- 82cm Cuff Size- 29.2cm

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Cloth- Mohair 150cm @ Dalston Mill Fabrics (Collar- Laminated Wool @ Dalston Mill Fabrics) Lining- Mey Meh Print Silk @ House of Hackney (Sleeve Lining- Viscose Twill @ Bernstein & Banleys)

Final Pattern Pieces

Chest

Chest

Waist

Waist

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Pattern Drafting and Final Adaptations

Drafting

I drafted a single-breasted classic suit jacket block from Aldrich’s, ‘Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear’ using measurements for a 38” chest.

Chest- 100cm Scye Depth- 24.4cm Natural Waist Length44.2cm Neck Size- 40cm Half Back- 20cm Jacket Length- 57cm

The Coat has a twopiece sleeve, also drafted from the Aldrich book.

Sleeve Length- 82cm Cuff Size- 29.2cm

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1.

Final Adaptation

The coat is cropped to 5� below the waistline. From the CF waistline there are 17cm extensions.

2.

The welt, forepart dart and side cut have been removed and 1 patch pocket measuring 18 x 15cm will be placed on the left forepart.

3.

The lapel is a peaked lapel instead of a notch lapel.

4.

The side body is integrated in to the forepart.

5.

The side seam connecting the forepart and the back panels flares out 3.5cm.

6.

There is a centre vent on the back measuring 5cm, which will come out on to the back.

It starts at the chest line down to the hem.

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Toile Alterations

Toile Fitting Notes

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Cropped Boxy DB JacketIssues and Possible Alterations Toile Construction Issues - I didn’t apply the fusing to the patch pockets while constructing them and therefore distorted the shape slightly, but as they are CF in placement it is a visible mistake - I didn’t place the patch pockets on the forepart equidistant from the CF. - The cloth is pulling slightly at the right angle where the extension goes out from the bottom of the breakline.

Alteration/ Adaptation Ideas Forepart

- The hem at the CF is asymmetrical as it dips down a few centimeters at the wrap, I like the look but as it doesn’t dip by much it could be viewed as a construction error, therefore I will increase how much it dips past the hem by to exaggerate it.

Back - The fit is extremely boxy, at the back it isn’t hanging straight, I will build the shoulder pads up slightly to see if that improves it, if not I will have to adapt the back pattern slightly to pick it up.

- I like the extended centre vent at the back, I would possible bring it up even higher on the back.

Sleeves - I would like to further toile the sleeves so that they are slightly more fitted, to see whether it works having fitted sleeves and an oversized body.

- Another idea to possibly toile is shortening the sleeves so that the cuff sits in line with the hem.

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LAYPLANNING AND CUTTING

Firstly, press cloth thoroughly to allow for shrinkage, fold in half right sides in.

Lay pieces in the most economical way considering both the inlay amounts required as well as the directional pile of the Mohair.

Transfer all markings from pieces on to the cloth.

Forepart

3cm along the CF 2cm along the shoulder and top of lapel 2.5cm around the arm from the shoulder to the front pitch point 1cm along the side seam 5cm along the hem

Side Body

NO SIDE BODY

Back

2cm along the CB 2cm on the neck 1.5cm on the arm 6cm on the vent 5cm along the hem

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Topsleeve

5cm on the hem

Undersleeve

3cm along the longer edge 2cm around the arm from the pitch 5cm on the hem

CANVASSES 1.

Steam the Body and chest canvasses and press the domette.

Body

2. Place the forepart on the

body canvas Chalk around the front and around the back of the arm.

At the hem, mark mid pocket point/ dart point.

Shape the canvas around the ribs from the back of the arm down to the bottom point.

3.

Mark the breakline and button point on to the canvas.

Chest

Body

4.

Take the chest canvas and place it on the body canvas so that the grain line is sitting parallel to the breakline, 1cm behind it.

Domette

Cut it so that it sits 1� above the buttonhole mark, straight across and around the armhole.

5.

Place the chest canvas on the domette on the bias, cut around the chest canvas slightly bigger on all sides apart from the breakline, which needs to be cut so it sits 1cm behind the edge of the chest canvas.

6.

Chest

Body

Baste the 3 layers in place.

Pad stitch all 3 layers together

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Patch pockets On the left forepart mark where the patch pocket will sit.

The Pocket measures 18 x 15cm.

Snip in notches on either end of the top of the pocket (below the 2.5cm extension)

1.Around

Each pocket there is 0.6cm seam allowance added and 2.5cm along the top edge.

5.

Trim away the excess lining around the patch.

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2.Fuse

a piece of bias cut fusing to the back, not on SA.

6.

Baste around the edge of the patch 0.4mm in, easing in the pocket. The finished patch will be bigger than the lining, so the lining won’t be seen.

3.Cut

Pocket linings on the straight of grain, slightly bigger than the pocket bags.

7.

Cut away the excess lining again so the lining is in line with the patch.

4.Fold The top edge over by 1.5cm.

Baste the lining to the patches so that the lining is sitting 1cm below the notch line.

8.

Machine around the pocket bag by 0.6cm; back tacking at the top edges.

Trim away slightly around the edges, cut off the top corners up to the seam.

9.

Turn the pocket out.

Roll the seam and baste around the edges of the pocket co that the lining isn’t visible from the front.

10. Cut a piece of Silesia on the straight of grain, which is approximately 5cm longer than the top of the pocket and 7cm deep.

Place over the pocket placement line on the wrong side of the forepart and baste in to place

11.

Place the patch on to the forepart along the placement line and baste in to place.

12.

On the wrong side of the forepart over a ham, hand stitch the pocket using a felling stitch.

13. Top-stitch around the pocket on the front, bar tack corners.

Where the Silesia is, double stitch the top of the pocket

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CANVASSING

1.

4.

2.

5.

3.

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Take a strip of lining cut on the straight of grain.

Baste the bridle over the breakline, pulling it tight while basting.

Baste down around outer edges of the lining down.

The lapel should be padded up to 4cm below the top of the lapel and 5cm in from the edge of the lapel, down to 1� above the button point.

Bridle and Pad Stitching

Start padding the lapels on the bridle; the first 2 lines should be stitched flat.

Then roll as padding.

PAD STITCHING SHOULD NOT BE VISIBLE FROM THE FRONT! 15

Facings

When it came to cutting my facings I realised that I hadn’t saved enough of my cloth to cut my entire facing with the pile of the mohair running in the right direction- I therefore had to piece them.

The mohair is on the right side over the lapels and from the waist the facing is the mohair on the wrong plain side of the cloth.

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Linings 2.5cm 5cm

2.5cm

2.5cm

2.5cm

2.5cm

5cm

5cm

Body Lining 2.5cm

2.5cm

2.5cm

1cm

Sleeve Lining

5cm

5cm

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IN BREAST POCKETS

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CONSTRUCTIONChalk in the CF line again and cut away excess.

Take a strip of linen 1.5cm wide and cut on the straight of grain.

Baste it around the front edge, pulling it tight while stitching.

Fell the edge of the tape to the body canvas making sure not to go through the cloth.

Place the facing on top of the forepart right sides in.

Baste the facing to the forepart from around the peak of the lapel- trapping in ease around the peak- down the CF to just above the hem.

Machine together using a 1cm seam.

Before turning through, cut away some of the seam allowance on the peak of the lapel, snip in to the seam on the extension point and cutting away some of the seam on the end points of the extensions.

Press open the facing seam.

Turn the facing through to the back, rolling the seam so that it isn’t visible from the front.

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Attaching Facings

Around the front edge cut away 1cm of the body canvas.

Starting at the bottom of the breakline baste up along the edge of the lapel, 1cm in. Stitching from the back roll the seam to the front so that when it is folded back it will be invisible.

From the bottom of the breakline then baste around the extension, again from the back and roll the seam to the back.

Do a 2nd line of basting on the facing 2cm in from the first down the CF and around the extension.

The 3rd line is the same another few centimeters in from the 2nd.

The 4th line is down the edge of the facing.

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Centre Back Vent

1.

Baste CB seam together to the top of the vent. Machine together with a 1cm seam allowance.

3.

Press open the seam and pull the right side over the left so that the left is over the right on the front.

Baste the top of the vent down and press

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2.

Cut in to the CB seam up to the stitch line at the top of the vent.

4.

Hand stitch the top of the vent in place., baste all edges over and press.

5. Machine back to the foreparts, press open seams.

Shoulders

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Under COLLAR

1.

Cut out the collar in both melton and collar canvas- ON BIAS

4.

2.

Machine the melton together and press open the CB seam

5.

3.

6.

Place the melton on the canvas, machine together along the collar stand line.

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Press the collar stand over and stretch the collar with the iron.

Baste around the collar, about 1 inch in from the edges.

Pad stitch the layers together , using the basting marks as a guide as to where. Roll collar as padding.

Step By Step

Take the under collar by the CB and place it on the CB of the jacket so it is sitting along the inlay line, pin in place.

Pull the front of the collar round so that the fold will sit in line with the breakline.

Baste the end of the collar, make sure that it isn’t too tight and altering the breakline- Also ensuring that the collar is sitting at the same point on each side.

Baste the edge of the under collar to the jacket starting at the CB round to the front.

This will be fell stitched with silk thread.

Put the jacket on the mannequin inside out and cross stitch the cloth around the neck to the collar.

Ensure that the under-collar is sitting correctly and is sitting in line with the breakline rather than it being too tight and altering the front shape.

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TOP COLLAR

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Sleeve Construction

Machine the sleeves together by 1cm on the inside seam.

Press open seam.

N.B. There is no working cuff or vent on the sleeves so the seams are crown to the cuff hem.

Take a piece of bias cut Silesia and place it along the hem of the sleeve, baste it flat and securely baste it to the inside sleeve seam.

Stitch outside seam and trap in the Silesia. Press open the seam.

Fold up the hem and baste in to place.

Machine the sleeve linings together, baste inside seam to the sleeve inside seam and bag out so it is sitting correctly within the sleeve.

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Inserting SLEEVES

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Shoulder Pads

Notes from Norton & Sons N.B. pad and the

The shoulder pad is a 4-ply and sits between the lining the canvas. It is basted to canvas.

Sleevehead roll (with canvas) inserted after sleeves along the seam allowance, from the front pitch to the back pitch.

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Alterations After having the jacket pressed I noticed that the collar was not balanced, the lapel points weren’t equal in size or angle and the top collar was wider on the right hand side.

I firstly undid the stitching around the lapels and repositioned the cloth on the lapel and also on the top collar so that they were equal.

N.B. It still isn’t perfect in my opinion but due to cut away cloth I was limited in how much I could change.

After hand-stitching the lapels back in to place, I measured the width of the top collar on both sides and marked on the right where the collar should end if it is to balance.

I undid the hand-stitching from the collar to melton and cut away the excess fabric and re-stitched the collar in to place so it is balanced.

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Finishing Once the collar and sleeves are inserted finishing can start, this includes: -Felling in all linings -Hand finishing of collar -Inserting labels -Pressing -Hangers -Buttonholes and Buttons On the right hand side I have marked the position of the 3 buttonholes as well as the size- for a DB button.

Machine the edges and cut the button holes, attaching gimp thread around the hole.

Stitch around the hole with matching button twist, encasing the gimp thread as you stitch.

Bar tack at the end of the button hole.

Button Holes and Buttons Turn the jacket inside out and using a chalk pencil, mark through the button holes the position of the button.

Using double thread go through each hole twice and create a button stand shank, wind the thread around it until secure.

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The woven labels are 6 x 9cm and are hot cut, so they are felled to the lining all around the edge.

On this jacket the label is placed just under the collar on the inside lining.

A hanger has been stitched on the inside of the collar.

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