15 minute read
THE FIRST ZERO CARBON ITINERARY
NELSON EATS:
A LOCAL’S GUIDE TO
EATERIES IN NELSON CITY
Words: Johny O’Donnell. Nelson’s hospitality scene has come a long way in recent years and thankfully so - Te Tauihu is home to some of the country’s best fresh produce and it’s only fitting that we showcase the best of that on the stuff we plate up right here at home for locals and visitors alike.
If you’re planning a night out in Nelson City, there is so much to explore, and here I’ve attempted to capture just a taste of the goodness on offer. This is by no means an extensive list but few would accuse me of being malnourished and therefore I feel a pretty good judge of some “must do” Nelson eateries!
New Asia
This is one of Nelson’s best kept secrets - don’t be fooled by the fairly predictable sloppy smorgasbord that occupies the front window - sitting behind the curtain is one of the best Chinese restaurants I’ve ever tried.
Park up with a Jasmine tea because you’ll need some time with this menu - it’s packed with authentic Chinese dishes ranging from pork hock to peking duck. A few must do’s include the prawn dumplings, sichuan spicy chicken and the beef in chilli broth. I’m salivating just getting these words down.
If you’re stopping by for lunch, there are few better ways to enjoy an hour away from the hustle and bustle than with a heavenly chicken noodle soup (be sure to ask for chilli oil to give it that kick).
You can BYO to this restaurant so your best bet is to get a group of friends together, book a table with a lazy Susan and bring some decent wine in for the occasion.
Arden
Lisa and Logan have it sussed with Arden, a humble feature on the Nelson dining scene, which is captured by a relaxed and easy going atmosphere.
The owners of this wee gem returned to Nelson after a decade in Melbourne and you can see their experience there has certainly influenced the establishment they have today. These guys are fussy about their food and drink - they have one of the best wine lists in town and each one of them is hand selected by the team. The best part? To the untrained amongst us, most of the brands are barely recognisable and yet I’ve discovered many of what have become my favourite wines through the recommendations of their team.
There is a lot to love about this place, but to highlight a few; they have a cocktail list that packs enough punch to change the course of an evening, they serve the freshest oysters in town, they have a ‘Feed Me Sunday’ option which is unreal value and all the crockery you eat off is handmade by the owner herself! (cont’d)
A nightcap at Kismet is the perfect way to top off an evening in Nelson.
Hopgood’s
You can’t mention dining in Nelson without acknowledging the multi-award winning Hopgood’s Restaurant - the stallion of the Nelson dining scene. It’s pretty hard to fault Hopgood’s - the wine list is extensive, the service is flawless and the food is world class.
The menu is constantly evolving and changing with the seasons and the restaurant holds great wine pairing evenings through winter where you can meet the winemaker and experience a tasting evening with wine and food matchings.
Owner and Head Chef Kevin Hopgood makes great use of local produce to deliver truly memorable dishes. The whole experience delivers but I’m particularly fond of their pāua dumplings and granny smith sorbet when it’s on the menu.
A surprising but worthy addition to the list is Nelson’s best Turkish joint Paasha. I’ve never felt like a customer here, only a friend. The quality of the food is in a category of its own and the family that owns and operates the shop put a lot of love into every meal.
It can be tempting to try the usual favourites but I highly recommend a Paasha Mixed Grill for the best of everything on offer, most notably their range of shish kebabs which carry an unmistakable smokey taste that is quite addictive.
I’ve only recently discovered that they also serve a great raki and their Turkish Delight is the best I have ever tried. Trust me - you won’t be disappointed by this one!
Babagato
I’m hesitant to let the secret out but Babagato in Nelson is easily one of my favourite restaurants. This place is completely unassuming. They only serve the best ingredients, accompanied by the best wines, and slightly random and erratic customer service which actually makes it a more rounded experience.
The restaurant featured on the TV show My Restaurant Rules where owner Raffaello (or ‘Raf’) was described as loud, honest and passionate which in my experience is a pretty accurate representation. I would only add - very genuine, extremely talented and quite endearing as well!
Cocktails to change the course of an evening at Arden.
Hot tip - I’m not even a dessert person but their tiramisu is off the charts.
Honorary mention: The Free House
When people ask me why I love Nelson, The Free House is one of the first things that comes to mind. It’s an institution and deservedly gets recognition in our Nelson eats section despite not having a very extensive food offering. Why? Because at The Free House, you can eat whatever you like from wherever you like. Yes that’s right - the free house concept extends to being open to food being brought in from elsewhere as well.
The Free House is comfortably one of the best craft beer bars in the country but in my opinion it’s just one of the best bars in the country full stop.
The Free House has a famously low profile (yes, I see the irony) and the owner Eelco Boswijk will likely be completely unfazed by this article and possibly even not too impressed with the amount of ‘under the hood’ secrets being shared. This refreshing approach to business is in his DNA - his father, the late Eelco Boswijk is often referred to as the pioneer of Nelson hospitality for the famous Chez Eelco on Trafalgar Street. The great thing about The Free House is you never quite know what you’re going to get - you could grab a seat at a table with the local knitting club (predominantly men I might add), head inside to play cards by the fire or soak in the last of the evening sun with others winding down from a long day at work.
Although plenty of people frequent The Free House, many are ignorant to the discreet shed which houses Family Jewels Records Store which is owned and operated by Grant Smithies, a music fanatic and commentator who features regularly on RadioNZ. On a Friday and Saturday afternoon, you can hear Smithie’s tasty tunes bellowing out of the small shack that houses the Store. When the sun is shining, the tunes are pumping and New Zealand’s best craft beers are flowing - it’s pretty hard to stop at a single pint (and completely unnecessary in my opinion).
The Free House’s low profile means they don’t do social media except for one notable exception - The Dogs of The Free House Instagram account which is a must for the K9 lovers among us and a useful filter for the rest of you (it may not be the pub for you!).
In an era where everyone is seemingly too busy to slow down and catch up, The Free House offers a mental escape from the madness that is our daily lives. Whilst we’re not in the business of promoting alcohol consumption, there are few problems that can’t be washed down with a
Experience Nelsons finest dining at award-winning Hopgood’s Restaurant
fresh pint and a bowl of Pics peanuts. Hell if you’re feeling really adventurous, branch out and have a pickled egg.
It’s not unusual to find a local MP leaning over the bar or a few city councillors huddled around a table but none of that really matters at The Free House - it’s an equalising space that feels, for the most part, relatively ego free and down to earth. There is nothing pretentious about the place yet it feels like a carefully curated experience at the same time.
You can probably tell I’m a bit of a fan…...I shall stop there!
That all being said - what is the perfect night out in Nelson? Arguably, two decent craft beers from The Free House and a trip to either New Asia or Babaggato is very hard to compete with. If you’re feeling up for it, hit Kismet or Arden for a nightcap before closing out.....you never know where that might take you.
Some final words...
If you’re looking for something more ritzy, then start your evening at Arden with a few delicious natural wines, then head to Hopgoods and roundout with a whisky at Kismet.
Buon appetito Nelson!
A TASTE OF TASMAN
UNORTHODOX SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE by Johny O’Donnell.
Is there really ever a bad time of year for spaghetti bolognese? I don’t think so… this recipe is a slightly unorthodox one but it’s always treated me well.
INGREDIENTS
• Approx 75gm NoZtrano from Viavio
Cheese • A handful of basil (Tasman Bay Herbs) • A handful of Italian parsley (Tasman Bay
Herbs) • 2 x Cloves of garlic (Crushed) • 250g Pestell’s streaky bacon • 500g Ellis Creek mince
In a large ovenproof dish (ideally a dutch oven), bring 1 cup of wine and prepared stock to the boil then add the beautiful fresh Ellis Creek mince. This mince is my personal favourite as it’s as fresh as you can get - straight from the farm to your door by the good folks at Ellis Creek in Golden Bay. This is an unconventional cooking method but the right amount of liquid will mean your mince becomes very fine and absorbs the flavour of the wine and stock which gives you a delicious starting point for this tasty dish. From here, add the remaining cup of wine as you are cooking and as things dry up.
Add in the garlic and chilli and toss through the mince. Now do the same with the Pestell’s bacon (by far the best bacon available) and once browned, add in the tomato paste to start to thicken the dish. Now go ahead and add all the tomatoes (I use cherry tomatoes when they’re in season for the perfect flavour) - be aware this next part will take some time. Gently cook off the tomatoes, breaking them up as you do ensuring a smooth finish. • 500g fresh tomatoes • 2 tablespoons of tomato paste • 2 Cups of red wine • 1 Cup of beef stock • 1 Chilli with seeds removed • 400g of spaghetti approx.
afternoon and you can keep adding liquid (stock or wine) as needed as it will keep evaporating as you cook, absorbing more of those rich flavours.
When you’re ready to eat, simply cook the pasta as per instructions and bring the oven dish back onto the stovetop where you can add the chopped fresh basil to enhance the flavour. I use NoZtrano cheese from Viavio Cheese makers in Nelson. Their Italian cheese selection is second to none and are the perfect accompaniment to any platter or Italian dish.
Once you feel confident that the ingredients are well mixed together - put the dish in the oven for 2 to 3 hours on a medium to low heat. The flavours will develop over the This dish is perfectly paired with just about any red wine but I particularly like the 2016 Kono Pinot Noir or the 2019 Neudorf Tom’s Block Pinot Noir. Deliziosa!
LOCAL CHOC & BERRY PAV by Libby Brown.
I remember stumbling upon a Chocolate Pavlova recipe whilst living in the UK and thought, “hang on… a chocolate pav?!” I was very keen to learn more about this variation on the traditional kiwi pavlova - were the poms onto something? After whipping it up a few times over there and making a few tweaks I returned home to bravely share my new masterpiece with my whānau for Christmas (I remember it was a big deal as my Auntie ALWAYS made the Christmas pav so I had to bolster some confidence.) Safe to say the decadent dessert went down an absolute treat and I am now the proud Pav Queen every year at Christmas (although my Auntie does still bring a delicious traditional pav, because, you know, traditions and all... and it is also very delicious.)
INGREDIENTS PAV • 6 Large egg whites (Sungold Organic
Free Range Eggs - beautiful, local eggs) • 300g caster sugar • 3 tbsp cocoa powder sieved (Donavan’s make a delicious Premium Dutch Cocoa
Powder) • 1 tsp balsamic vinegar • 50g dark chocolate finely chopped (Hogarth Ecuador Chocolate 85% the most important ingredient - only the best will do)
Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/bake & line a tray with baking paper.
Beat egg whites until beautiful satiny peaks form, then continue to beat and add the sugar a spoonful at a time until the meringue is stiff and shiny. Sprinkle the cocoa over the egg white, add the vinegar and chopped chocolate. Gently fold everything together with a spatula until the cocoa is mixed through.
Carefully heap onto the baking paper in a thick circle approximately 20cm in diameter, smooth the sides and top. Place in the oven and immediately turn the temp down to 150°C/130°C fan/bake. Bake for approx 60 to 75 minutes. When it’s ready it will look crisp around the edges and sides and be dry on top. Turn the oven off at this point and open the door slightly - allowing the pav to cool completely before removing. Don’t be disappointed at the cracking and flattening of the pav - celebrate it! You’re right on track, it almost turns into a thin brownie at this point.
When you’re ready to serve, pop the pav INGREDIENTS TOPPING • 500ml cream (Fresh local Oaklands cream available in all good grocers) • 500g fresh berries - my favourite to use are raspberries (we are spoilt for choice for beautiful, freshly picked berries on the roadside right across Te Tauihu) • 3 tbsp dark chocolate coarsely grated (Hogarth Ecuador Chocolate 85%)
onto a large, flat bottom plate or board. Whisk the cream until thick and pile it on to the pav, then scatter with plenty of fresh berries. Grate the chocolate so that you get curls rather than rubble and sprinkle over the berries. In the unlikely event that there is any leftover, this dessert keeps well in the fridge for a day or two and gets gooier and more delicious.
NELSON ARTS
Words: Frances Wilson.
Nelson has long been a haven for artists. This comes as no great surprise when considering its charmed vistas where the water meets the land, stretching over the checkerboard plains to rolling hills and snow-capped mountain ranges beyond.
On top of this, the high sunshine hours and thriving agriculture industries present ideal conditions and seasonal work for young artists and dreamers. Nelson has always been a constant thoroughfare and destination for immigrants, and more recently, one of the country’s largest centres for refugees. In recent years, its local Māori iwi have come to the fore, reclaiming their stories and connections to Whakatū.
In the 1930s and 40s, there was a circle of New Zealand contemporary artists and writers who lived, or spent time, in the Nelson region. Toss Woollaston lived in Māpua, often visited by artists including Colin McCahon and Doris Lusk, who agreed that the Nelson landscape was a ‘subject for painting’. Rita Angus would come to the then newly-formed Riverside Community to pick apples, mix with like-minded people, and work on ideas for paintings.
Later, the region’s clay deposits attracted potters – Czech Mirek Smisek, Brits Harry and May Davis, and Jack and Peggy Laird, all established their careers in Nelson, with an impact that stretched across New Zealand. With the pot-
ArtWalk is a self-guided walking tour featuring key paintings from the Suter reproduced outdoors in large scale.
ters came the broader craft industry – weavers, jewellers and glassworkers, encouraged by training opportunities at Laird’s Waimea Pottery, Jens Hansen Jeweller, Höglund Art Glass and Nelson Polytechnic.
In the 80s, the arts took a performance-bent. The extravaganza of Wearable Arts started in a rain-sodden tent, its 200 guests in gumboots, cheering a line-up of art-as-garments. Nelson Arts Festival followed soon after, featuring a Mask Carnivale with 1000s of people in home-made costumes. These two events relied heavily on volunteer community input – both as labourer and artist. Most recently this aspect has manifest in the biennial Te Ramaroa, a light festival that showcases wondrous light installations by local kids and everyday people with a genius spark, taking months (even years) to construct their creations. This aspect seems to be ingrained in Nelson – that a large-scale event can be pulled together with the input of school kids and committed amateurs, rather than the need for a headline artist. Perhaps too, this is the success of the Saturday Markets, where a start-up can test their skill at a handmade product, building sales until they have a business the size of Pic’s Peanut Butter.
While the Nelson-based craft community is smaller than its heyday of the 70s and 80s, there are still plenty of craft galleries and studios to satisfy every taste. It’s best however, to start at The Suter Art Gallery/ Te Aratoi o Whakatū, with its impressive collection of work by local and New Zealand painters and ceramicists. Recently, the Suter partnered with Make/Shift Spaces to create ArtWalk – a self-guided walking tour around the town, featuring key paintings from the Suter, reproduced in large scale on external walls. The curation of ArtWalk focussed on works that have a particular poignancy to the Nelson region, either through the artist or the subject matter, making for interesting backstories. ArtWalk can be enjoyed as a mission-with-a-map, or a surprise discovery as one saunters from cafe to boutique store to winebar.
Mask Carnivale.
