09 08 18 New York Fashion Week Special Edition SS2019

INSIDE: MEET THE DESIGNERS Snežana Aničić-Van Pelt....... 4 Tingting Cai.............................. 6 Amo (Yu Ling) Chou................ 8 Justing Kong Jiang................. 3 Nicholle Jones.......................... 7 Kiwon Kang............................. 9 Jessica (Ching Chi) Lai.......... 5 Yoonsuk Lee............................. 6 Longwen Li.............................. 9

Katy Fang Liu........................... 8 Zhihan Liu............................. 2 Vivid Yunan Ma....................... 7 Mark Kazu Mekaru.................. 8 Esther (Tian) Qi....................... 6 Lusha Wang........................... 3 Zibo Wang............................. 5 Changsheng Yu...................... 4

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“Lump Top” made of buckram, human hair, merino wool, Mongolian yak and lamb yarns, designed by Snežana Aničić-Van Pelt, M.F.A. fashion design. Photography by

Danielle Rueda.

page 2 | new york fashion week special edition | academy of art university | san francisco

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION MEET THE DESIGNERS

Zhihan Liu Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Zhihan Liu (m.f.a. fashion design): Don’t run too fast and make yourself exhausted in the beginning. Remember this is a long-distance challenge.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the

School of Fashion?

ZL: When I first saw the model’s fitting. A real person wearing the garment I designed made me feel happy and satisfied.

Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon, who would it be?

ZL: Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, Rick Owens.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

ZL: Find an inspiration that touches you deeply. That’s very important.

Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use?

ZL: Sportswear.

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

ZL: I can feel the world from my heart, my creation is always from my heart.

Q: What is your current state of mind?

ZL: I want a break or vacation.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

ZL: Musical talent.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

ZL: The most challenging part is the time management.

Zhihan Liu working on her collection. Photo by Bob Toy.

M.F.A. fashion design student Zhihan Liu. Photo by Bob Toy.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

ZL: Fittings.

effortless yet edgy.

So, the motto maybe should be “less is more.”

Q: If cost was not a fac- Zhihan Liu’s illustrated lineup of her collecQ: Who are your fator, what would be your tion. Image courtesy of Zhihan Liu. vorite fashion heroes biggest fashion purchase?

Q: What is your style motto? in real life?

ZL: Yohji Yamamoto.

ZL: I tend to like garments ZL: Yohji Yamamoto. with clean lines that look

san francisco | academy of art university |

new york fashion week special edition | page 3

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION MEET THE DESIGNERS

Lusha Wang Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Lusha Wang (m.f.a. fashion design): My teacher once told me, “Stop being negative.

Trust yourself. Be confident.”

This really resonated with me.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

LW: Working late everyday with my classmates; having dinner together, listening to music together and offering support to one another. These are memories that I will keep

M.F.A. fashion design student Lusha Wang. Photo by Bob Toy.

with me always.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

LW: Learn to manage your time.

Learn when to take a break.

Q: What was the most challenging Lusha Wang’s illustrated lineup of her collection. Image courtesy of Lusha Wang. part of doing pressure, and sometimes you collection?

Q: What item of clothing in can lose sight of your vision.

LW: Working on your collecyour closet is your favorite/ When that happens, you need tion takes such a long time do you most use? to take a step back so you and puts you under a lot of LW: My Maison Margiela don’t lose focus. oversized shirt. It goes with everything.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

Q: What is your current state LW: My favorite part of doing of mind? the collection is making samLW: Exhausted and excited. ples. It’s nice to have a small version of how your clothes Q: If cost was not a factor, will look like. It’s like a small what would be your biggest window into the future. fashion purchase?

LW: An entire Margiela Q: If you could come back as collection. a fashion icon, who would it be?

Q: What is your style motto?

LW: John Galliano.

LW: Casual, chic, easy.

Lusha Wang working on her collection. Photo by Bob Toy.

Justing Kong Jiang Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Justing Kong Jiang (m.f.a. fashion design): Get some more sleep.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the

School of Fashion?

JKJ: My favorite memory was to jokingly annoy my classmates when they were working.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

JKJ: Try to embrace what you

courtesy of Justing Kong Jiang.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

LW: To speak French fluently.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

LW: Before I was 29, I knew nothing about fashion design.

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

LW: John Galliano.

M.F.A. fashion design student Justing Kong Jiang. Photo by Bob Toy. JKJ: I would buy all the manufacturers that produce for the LVMH group.

might dislike; consider different angles as you judge your designs.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

JKJ: Dealing with my fabrications. They are extremely difficult to work with and I spent a lot of time studying them.

Q: What is your style motto?

JKJ: Something logical and something strange.

Justing Kong Jiang working on his collection. Photo by Bob Toy.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

JKJ: I enjoyed the moments when I solved problems. I think of my collection as ‘puzzles’ and I enjoyed playing with the garments in this way.

Justing Kong Jiang’s illustrated lineup of his collection. Image

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

LW: A Comme des Garçons look that my husband bought for me.

Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon, who would it be?

JKJ: Alexander McQueen.

Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/ do you most use?

JKJ: T-shirts or whatever is comfortable and easy to put on.

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

JKJ: My collection of scissors.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

JKJ: Playing piano or violin.

Q: What is your current state of mind?

JKJ: Finish this collection as soon as possible.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

JKJ: I was a radio host (DJ) in college.

Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase?

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

JKJ: Salvador Dali.

page 4 | new york fashion week special edition | academy of art university | san francisco

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION MEET THE DESIGNERS

Snežana Aničić-Van Pelt Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Snežana Aničić-Van Pelt (m.f.a. fashion design): Forget about ego. Keep calm.

Work hard. Work harder.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

SAVP: My favorite memories would probably be the interview for consideration as valedictorian and the honest conversation I had with the 1 Granary gals, Aya and Olya,

when they visited the School of Fashion.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

SAVP: The work is never done. There is always more.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

SAVP: The strict deadline driven schedule in the space that is shared.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

SAVP: Playing with crude techniques of weaving and macramé and building gravity challenging shapes.

Snežana Aničić-Van Pelt working on her collection. Photo by Bob Toy.

Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon, who would it be?

SAVP: Claude Cahun.

Q: What item of

Changsheng Yu Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Changsheng Yu (m.f.a. fashion design): Keep pushing yourself; when you feel there is nothing left that you can come up with, those last minute ideas might be the best ones you will have.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

CY: Spending time with classmates and just being surrounded by so many talented people.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

M.F.A. fashion design student Snežana Aničić-Van Pelt. Photo by Bob Toy.

clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use?

SAVP: Granny underwear and men’s vintage trousers Q: What is your current state of mind?

SAVP: Keep challenging the status quo.

Snežana Aničić-Van Pelt’s illustrated lineup of her collection. Image courtesy of Snežana Aničić-Van Pelt.

Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase?

SAVP: Something from Maison Margiela archive.

Q: What is your style motto?

SAVP: Mix and spill out.

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

CY: Give it your best shot and don’t regret it.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

CY: To maintain the quality work and to constantly produce better ideas than the ones you have already had on paper.

Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon, who would it be?

CY: Thom Browne.

courtesy of Changsheng Yu.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

SAVP: More talent for the natural sciences.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

SAVP: That I lived through war and bombings.

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

SAVP: Genesis P-Orridge, Leigh Bowery and Klaus Nomi for pushing the norms, and Vivienne Westwood for her planet-saving activism.

M.F.A. fashion design student Changsheng Yu. Photo by Bob Toy.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

CY: Step-by-step finding out who am I as a designer and getting to know my strengths and weaknesses on a totally different level than before.

Changsheng Yu’s illustrated lineup of his collection. Image

SAVP: My family’s moonshine, grandma’s tablecloth and doilies, my late fatherin-law’s handkerchiefs, random vintage glassware, a mummified rat.

Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/ do you most use?

CY: A denim jacket or a coat.

Q: What is your current state of mind?

CY: Wanting a nice job offer or at least a great internship.

Changsheng Yu working on his collection.

Photo by Bob Toy.

Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase?

CY: Buying the house of Maison Margiela.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

CY: To compose music.

Q: What is your style motto?

CY: Be true to who you are.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

CY: I am a guy!

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

CY: My creative mind.

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

CY: My mom.

san francisco | academy of art university |

new york fashion week special edition | page 5

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION MEET THE DESIGNERS

Jessica (Ching Chi) Lai Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Jessica (Ching Chi) Lai (m.f.a. fashion design): My instructor told me, the prints I’ve made for the collection “could have gone wrong very easily,” yet I’ve been able to achieve what I set out to do: to avoid tackiness while making the prints look silly in a very interesting and refreshing way.

JL: Have a mindset for yourself that you might not have much of a personal life. Make sure you plan ahead and make a schedule for yourself.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

JL: I’ve designed and printed all the fabrics by myself and made each garment at the same time.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing Q: What is your collection? favorite memJL: I’ve had a ory of being in lot of freedom the School of while making Jessica (Ching Chi) Lai Fashion? the collection, working on her collecJL: Feeling not just cut tion. Photo by Bob Toy. free to express and sew but artistic creativity and being also with the prints I created. able to learn from talented classmates; we can see each Q: If you could come back other grow together. I’ve as a fashion icon who would really enjoyed learning from it be? the best of my instructors, as JL: Rei Kawakubo, who well as my peers. founded a Japanese brand Comme des Garçons.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to Q: What item of clothing in do collection? your closet is your favorite/

Zibo Wang Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Zibo Wang (m.f.a. fashion design): Be professional about everything.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

ZW: Having the chance to know more people with the same dream as me, who are working hard to reach their goal.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

ZW: Students need to be open to all the challenges and

M.F.A. fashion design student Jessica (Ching Chi) Lai. Photo by Bob Toy.

do you most use?

JL: Generally, I like wearing something very comfortable and casual. I’m a big fan of jumpsuits. I like something very simple and not much with prints.

Q: What is your current state of mind?

JL: I want to have a lot of free time for myself to do whatever I want, and move to a different city and explore the new environment.

Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase?

JL: I would spend more money on some classic, higher quality coats and shoes that can easily match with most of my clothes.

Q: What is your style motto?

JL: Playful, yet still wearable.

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

JL: I have some sewing tools, notions and swatches that are very vintage looking. I found them in my late grandma’s sewing machine drawer. I

courtesy of Zibo Wang.

Image courtesy of Jessica (Ching Chi) Lai.

remember they were in the old school sewing machine and that is something we have in common.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

JL: I have always wanted to become a ballroom dancer. I was doing it for a year during my freshman year and I stopped dancing because I wanted to focus on fashion more for my future job. So far, I’m still very obsessed with that kind of dance.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

JL: I love singing and recently

I taught myself how to play the ukulele. Also, I’m super obsessed with succulents and I have all kinds of them at home. Sometimes I pet them, too.

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

JL: Alexander McQueen.

His ability to find beauty in things or people others considered ugly. I love Alexander McQueen because he was the kind of designer whose highly conceptual, technically excellent work makes me believe that fashion really can be an art, regardless of what others say.

M.F.A. fashion design student Zibo Wang. Photo by Bob Toy. Q: What is your style motto?

ZW: Nothing is easy, easy gives nothing.

know how to control their emotions.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

ZW: Finding the inspiration, so that I can express my design aesthetic.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

ZW: You never know what will happen. So I never feel excited when I solve one problem, because I know there will be another one.

Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon, who would it be?

ZW: I just want to be myself.

Zibo Wang’s illustrated lineup of her collection. Image

Jessica (Ching Chi) Lai’s illustrated lineup of her collection.

Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/ do you most use?

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

ZW: My parents and my memories with them.

Zibo Wang working on her collection. Photo by Bob Toy. ZW: Harem pants.

Q: What is your current state of mind?

ZW: I want to work and keep learning from the industry.

Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase?

ZW: Fashion illustrations/ sketchbooks from previous successful designers.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

ZW: I want to know how to play piano or guitar.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

ZW: I didn't know how to draw before I came to the [Academy].

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

ZW: My older female cousin.

page 6 | new york fashion week special edition | academy of art university | san francisco

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION MEET THE DESIGNERS

Yoonsuk Lee Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Yoonsuk Lee (m.f.a. fashion design): Get out of your comfort zone.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

YL: When I went to New York to present my work for the CFDA’s Geoffrey Beene Design Scholarship Award. It was such an honor for a fashion designer.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

YL: Be yourself. You should spend most of time to defining who you are and making the concept. If you can’t figure out your own aesthetic, then nobody can help you to go further. Don’t complain; just do more.

Yoonsuk Lee working on his collection. Photo by Bob Toy.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

YL: Defining the concept.

Q: What was your

Tingting Cai and Esther (Tian) Qi Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Tingting Cai (m.f.a. fashion design): Quality is more important than quantity.

Esther (Tian) Qi (m.f.a. fashion design): Do not imagine what are you going to do, just do it.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

TC: Working at school with classmates until the building

closed for the night.

EQ: Working with friends and how we encouraged each other.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

TC: Be patient, passionate and organized.

EQ: If you have some good ideas, try them out and see if they work!

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

TC: Based on the design

Tingting Cai and Esther (Tian) Qi’s illustrated lineup for their collaborative collection. Image courtesy of Tingting Cai and Esther (Tian) Qi.

M.F.A. fashion design student Yoonsuk Lee. Photo by Bob Toy. favorite part of doing collection?

YL: Defining who I am as a designer. This process is very helpful, not only for the fashion angle, it led me to think that I am an artist rather than a fashion designer.

Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon, who would it be?

YL: Martin Margiela.

Yoonsuk Lee's illustrated lineup of his collection. Image courtesy of

Yoonsuk Lee.

Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/ do you most use?

YL: Vintage tailored clothes from ’50s to ’80s.

Q: What is your current state of mind?

YL: I’m really ready to be in the fashion industry. Also, I want to have my own label in 10 years.

Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase?

YL: Having my own fabric manufacturing company.

Q: What is your style motto?

YL: Timeless, balance, legacy, natural-born, less is more.

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

YL: My hands.

Q: What non-fashion talent

would you most like to have?

YL: Painting.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

YL: I believe that fashion should be the part of the arts.

In terms of this view, I always think of myself as an artist who is doing ‘art’ with fabric.

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

YL: My grandfather.

M.F.A. fashion design student Tingting Cai (left) and M.F.A. fashion design student Esther (Tian) Qi (right).

Photos by Bob Toy.

sketch, to construct the accurate proportion in the toile.

EQ: My garments have very sculptural shapes. It was a challenge to get the right shaping, and I frequently adjusted the weight of layers to make the garment more balanced.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

TC: Pattern making.

EQ: Knowing that when you make something it is what you want and what you worked for.

Tingting Cai and Esther (Tian) Q: If you could come Qi working on their collaborative back as a fashion icon, collection. Photo by Bob Toy. who would it be?

TC: Tilda Swinton.

TC: Anxious.

EQ: Alexander McQueen.

EQ: Looking forward to our collection, though very tired.

Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your Q: If cost was not a factor, favorite/do you most use? what would be your biggest TC: A trench coat from fashion purchase?

Maison Margiela.

TC: A coat from Céline or a EQ: Streetwear with coat from Yohji Yamamoto. some design details.

EQ: A museum to show draQ: What is your current matic fashion garments from state of mind? different famous designers.

Q: What is your style motto?

TC: “Less is more.”

EQ: Layering and streetwear.

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

TC: Sensitivity to proportion and construction.

EQ: Learned knowledge and technology and passion.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

TC: Cooking skills.

EQ: Foreign language learning.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

TC: I’m a professional foodie.

EQ: I graduated from a college in Korea and speak Korean very well.

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

TC: Martin Margiela.

EQ: My mom.

san francisco | academy of art university |

new york fashion week special edition | page 7

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION MEET THE DESIGNERS

Nicholle Jones

M.F.A. fashion design student Nicholle Jones. Photo by Bob Toy.

Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Nicholle Jones (m.f.a. fashion design): Don’t overthink it—do it.

do you most use?

NJ: My white t-shirts; I don’t think too much about my clothes. I save my creativity for my designs. I know that sounds weird, but I think white tees are wonderful.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

NJ: The best memory is when I realized I was a conceptual designer. That was life-changing for me.

Q: What is your current state of mind?

NJ: I’m especially enjoying the process from graduation through prepping my collection for the runway. I feel my destiny is revealing itself in each step because there is something to gain in every phase. I am actually enjoying all of it.

Nicholle Jones’ illustrated lineup of her collection. Image courtesy of Q: What advice would you give to students who Nicholle Jones. want to do collection? online student and managing my past and present skills toNJ: There are so many things the logistics of my collection. gether on this stage. It’s a cool to take into consideration.

My collection is delicate collection. I really like it.

Most important is managing and none of the pieces can the whole project. Be able to be folded. Protection of this Q: If you could come back as source, manage your proinvestment was the biggest a fashion icon, who would duction and your alterations, challenge for me. it be? have good timelines and NJ: Cristobal Balenciaga. He manage the logistics.

Q: What was your favorite made his own rules and did part of doing collection? what worked best for him at Q: What was the most NJ: Making the vision come the time. challenging part of doing to life. I really enjoyed comcollection? bining my millinery skills Q: What item of clothing in NJ: For me, it was being an with my garments. Putting your closet is your favorite/

Vivid Yunan Ma Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Vivid Yunan Ma (m.f.a. knitwear design): Evolve your collection in a parallel progress to achieve a more cohesive look.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

VYM: When I am fully focused and indulge in my work at the knitting lab all

by myself.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

VYM: Communicate frequently with your instructors.

Utilize the school’s resources fully. Also, reach out to find out about additional resources and connections.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

VYM: Multi-tasking with all the works in school and life.

Time management.

Vivid Yunan Ma working on her collection.

Photo by Bob Toy.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

VYM: The moment of

Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase?

NJ: I would get a Balenciaga vintage silk gazar wedding garment with a hat. That is just delicious. It’s an amazing piece of work and he was genius for using it. He told the fabric what he wanted it to be.

Q: What is your style motto?

NJ: Just have good shoes. If you have amazing shoes, the rest is irrelevant. Shoes are life.

Q: What is your most treasured possession?

NJ: When I volunteered at NY Fashion Week in Bryant Park, they gave me a t-shirt and I still have it. I kept it because when you are exposed to something, it seems possible and here we are. This is a big deal.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

NJ: I think I would want to be a gymnast or athlete.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

NJ: I am terribly shy.

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

NJ: Martin Margiela. I would also say Dries Van Noten, because he is business-minded and has control over his brand name.

M.F.A. fashion design student Vivid Yunan Ma. Photo by Bob Toy. the satisfaction when I could see that the sketch, yarn swatch and the design of the silhouette work well together.

Vivid Yunan Ma’s illustrated lineup of her collection. Image courtesy of Vivid Yunan Ma. Q: What item of clothing in your fashion purchase?

Q: What non-fashion talent closet is your favorite/do VYM: All the beautiful would you most like to have? you most use? yarn from the Italian comVYM: Web design.

VYM: An oversized black suit pany called Gruppo Tessile jacket.

Industriale.

Q: What would people be surprised to know about you?

Q: What is your current Q: What is your style motto?

VYM: Before I came to state of mind?

VYM: I like wearing classic Academy of Art University, I VYM: I’m fully focused and pieces that have an exaggeratwas a handbag designer. looking forward to my next ed design in silhouette. stage of life.

Q: Who are your favorite Q: What is your most treafashion heroes in real life?

Q: If cost was not a factor, sured possession?

VYM: My mom and my what would be your biggest VYM: My lipsticks. grandma.

page 8 | new york fashion week special edition | academy of art university | san francisco

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION MEET THE DESIGNERS

Mark Kazu Mekaru, Katy Fang Liu and Amo (Yu Ling) Chou

(L–R) M.F.A. fashion design student Mark Kazu Mekaru, M.F.A. textile design student Katy Fang Liu and M.F.A. knitwear design student Amo (Yu Ling) Chou. Mekaru and Chou’s photos by Bob Toy. Liu’s photo by Mario Zhang.

Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Mark Kazu Mekaru (m.f.a. fashion design): Trust your instincts and get some sleep.

Katy Fang Liu (m.f.a. textile design): Remain open-minded; keep the inspiration flowing.

Amo (Yu Ling) Chou (m.f.a. knitwear design): You can have your own style. As students, we should try more diversity in styles.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

MKM: That time of night when delirium sets in and the most nonsensical things become hilarious.

KFL: I have been so fortunate to have so many talented and inspirational textile design instructors at the Academy.

They have taught me a lot and helped me improve; they still influence me today.

AC: Working on assignments with my classmates all day in the basement.

Mark Kazu Mekaru, Katy Fang Liu and Amo (Yu Ling) Chou’s illustrated lineup of their collaborative collection. Image cour-

tesy of Mark Kazu Mekaru, Katy Fang Liu and Amo (Yu Ling) Chou.

complete.

KFL: Appreciate the opportunities, work hard and always have fun in what you are doing.

AC: Time management is really important.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

MKM: The sheer amount of work you have to put in.

KFL: Not Q: What Mark Kazu Mekaru working on to limit advice his collaborative collection Photo myself to would you

by Bob Toy. the collecgive to tion colors and materials; I students who want to do look towards the unusual collection? and unexpected.

MKM: Be prepared for a lot AC: Try yarns made of differof ups and downs, enjoyment, ent materials in order to comself-doubt and an overbine the textile’s technical whelming number of tasks to

Mark Kazu Mekaru’s mood board used as inspiration for his collaborative collection. Image courtesy of Mark Kazu Mekaru.

features with knitwear techniques to create new fabric.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

MKM: Seeing your work come to life in real fashion fabric.

KFL: I like trying different textile techniques and using different and unexpected materials.

AC: When the effect Katy Fang Liu’s mood board used as inspiration for her collaborative that I anticipate collection. Image courtesy of Katy Fang Liu. comes out well and it looks good. men’s coat by Iris Van Q: What would people be Herpen—if she would even surprised to know about Q: If you could come back as do such a thing. you? a fashion icon, who would KFL: Anything Sacai, MKM: I used to have four it be?

Jacquemus, Maison Margiela piercings.

MKM: Probably Grace Jones. and Dries Van Noten.

KFL: I’m never satisfied with KFL: Anyone can be my AC: A knitwear manufacturmyself and that is what keeps inspiration. ing company. me going.

AC: Yohji Yamamoto.

AC: I had no previous experiQ: What is your style motto? ence in knitwear.

Q: What item of clothing in MKM: Layers, because of San your closet is your favorite/ Francisco’s micro-climates Q: Who are your favorite do you most use? and weather changes. fashion heroes in real life?

MKM: A silver and magenta KFL: Do not just wear MKM: Right now, I’m obtwo toned sequin hooded clothes—wear your attitude. sessed with Love Bailey—she romper with an extreme low AC: Layering with streetwear. is a queer trans artist/percowl neck that I made for former/director/musician/ pride one year, before rompQ: What is your most treadesigner who is oozing with ers became all ‘bro.’ sured possession? passion, an enlightened KFL: Anything black and MKM: My cello or my ukuhigh fashion sense with the white. lele. sexuality that will hit you AC: Shirt and wool cardigan.

KFL: To never be tired. Do like a semi. She is, to me, the not forget to have fun. epitome of self-expression in Q: What is your current AC: Three years of my this day and age of transphostate of mind? learning experiences at the bia. Transfolk, gender queers, MKM: Cautiously optimistic.

Academy and friends I met in drag queens and/or any fashKFL: Keep practicing and my life. ionista who may get second constantly learning; the prolooks on the street living their cess will make you ready for Q: What non-fashion talent best life are heroes to me. the challenges of the future. would you most like to have?

KFL: Dries Van Noten. His AC: Thankful for everything.

MKM: Being able to hear fabric “story” provides the music through sight reading. vision for each collection. His Q: If cost was not a factor, KFL: Being able to play mucolor palettes are risky and what would be your biggest sical instruments, like piano, unexpected. His collections fashion purchase? and making electronic music. are always clean and elegant.

MKM: A commissioned AC: Photography.

AC: My mom.

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new york fashion week special edition | page 9

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION MEET THE DESIGNERS

Longwen Li and Kiwon Kang Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion?

Longwen Li (m.f.a. fashion design): Don’t keep your mind in a box, for example, don’t just draw a simple jacket and add some functional details on the jacket.

Kiwon Kang (m.f.a. textile design): When I was in textile design level 2, Jennifer [Jeon] was my instructor.

Sometimes, I made some swatches, but they didn’t look collection-ready. She gave me some direction for my project.

Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

LL: Sewing clothes with all my classmates in one classroom until midnight is my best memory.

KK: Working on the weekends. It’s more comfortable for me because it’s quiet and helps me to better concentrate on my work. Also, printing some experimental

designs on my own t-shirts.

Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection?

LL: Make a clear schedule to manage time. Don’t limit your mind, maybe materials are limited, but you should use them in a creative way.

KK: Collection is not easy for textile design students. The scale is much bigger than previous projects. Therefore, preparing for collection requires more time to think about design when collaborating with fashion design students. They need to understand each other’s design and how to best show the textiles on the garments.

Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection?

LL: Developing the silhouette is the most challenging part.

Silhouette should be creative, not gimmicky, and it should develop from your inspirations and concepts.

KK: I didn’t make a big swatch, so it was hard to print in yards.

Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection?

LL: Every time when I get a new idea and it works.

KK: The best part of the collection was that I could see my textile design on garments.

Longwen Li working on his collaborative collection. Photo by Bob Toy.

Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon who would it be?

LL: Lu Guang

M.F.A. fashion design student Longwen Li (left) and M.F.A. textile design student Kiwon Kang (right).

Photos by Bob Toy.

Zhong, a mandarin pop singer. Most of his songs give people positive energy, and he is young and dynamic.

Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/ do you most use?

LL: My jacket.

KK: I usually wear hoodies and sweatshirts, because it’s comfortable when working in the textile lab.

KK: My family, they always cheer me up.

Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have?

LL: I wish I could play guitar well.

KK: I think it is statistics and analysis, because I originally studied science.

why, but … they said they were surprised that I am a kind person, despite first impressions.

Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life?

LL: I think the first fashion hero is my mom. When I was young, she bought all of my clothes and dressed me. In her opinion, a man should always dress clean, that’s why my style Q: What is is clean and your current minimalistic state of mind? menswear.

LL: I feel excitBefore I came ed and also nerto America vous, because and studied new situations fashion design, are happening I used to every day. design footKK: It’s a bit wear. Back confusing now. then, Yohji I am looking Yamamoto was for a job, and I my favorite deam preparing signer in foota plan for the wear. Since future.

I started to study fashion, Q: If cost was I discovered not a factor, Yamamoto’s what would be menswear your biggest brand and find fashion purit to be inspirachase? tional. In my LL: It would be opinion, his garments. menswear is (Above) Kiwon Kang and (below) Longwen Li’s mood KK: The beautiful and board images used as inspiration for their collaborative uniqueness creative. Every collection. Images courtesy Kiwon Kang and Longwen Li. of items is the detail on the biggest criteria to me. garment is innovative. This Q: What would people be aesthetic influenced me a lot, Q: What is your style motto? surprised to know about let me consider of my every LL: Don’t think too much, you? finish design, functional just do it.

LL: I like singing and I am details and constructions.

KK: Do my best on everygood at it. I don’t know if I KK: I like G-Dragon’s fashion thing. surprise other people or not, style, he is a member of at least I surprised my classBigbang, a Korean boy band Q: What is your most treamates a lot! group. I am not a fan of their sured possession?

KK: My friends told me that music, but he has good sense LL: I think my creative mind their first impression of me of fashion. and sensitive personality. was ‘scary.’ I do not know

Longwen Li and Kiwon Kang’s illustrated lineup of their collaborative collection. Image courtesy of Longwen Li and Kiwon Kang.

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new york fashion week special edition | page 11

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION BEHIND THE SCENES

Preparing for New York Fashion Week

Student designers worked around the clock readying their collections for the NYFW runway All photos by Bob Toy.

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORY DESIGN

New School of Fashion program to focus on footwear and accessories

Students to develop 2-D and 3-D design skills in latest accredited major offering

By Nina Tabios

be educated about the core concepts of 2-D and 3-D design. Education about materials, manufacturing, market trends, and technical specifications primarily used in this field will round out

a comprehensive approach in innovating and conceptualNo outfit is complete izing an individual aesthetwithout the right pair of shoes ic. Aligning with Academy and a killer bag to match. standards, students completFootwear and fashion ing either the B.F.A. or M.F.A. accessories are major sources footwear and accessory deof revenue for the grees will profashion marduce industry ket, sometimes standard keeping brands portfolios. afloat among the “We’re competition. Yet, in a unique very few design position at schools offer the Academy,” specialized prosaid Footwear grams to educate and Accessory the development Design of such goods; Program in the U.S., only Coordinator three schools Damion Le offer a degree in Cappelain. accessory design.

“The advanNow, starting tage is that we in Fall 2018, the have very little School of Fashion competition at Academy of in accessory Art University design, and, at is offering new the same time, degree programs we have the in footwear and full support of accessory design; the School of both programs Fashion to sehave accredcure the right itation from tools, equipthe National ment and Association of resources. We Schools of Art are working to and Design develop curBag designed by Saya Shen, M.F.A. fashion design. Photo (NASAD). riculum that is

by Danielle Rueda.

To begin in touch with their footwear and accessothe B.F.A. programs, whereas the latest trends in footwear ry programs and learn the the M.F.A. programs will and accessories.” language and construction embark on fast-tracking the Le Cappelain has worked specifications, students will core concepts and focus upon as a consultant with brands

Student Nancy Zhao, B.F.A. fashion design, making a sneaker shoe. Photo by Danielle Rueda.

Black and white ballerinas by Lin Mei-Hsiu, B.F.A. fashion design. Photo by Danielle Rueda. such as 3.1 Phillip Lim, Tom Lipop and Roots Collective.

As a student, he studied footwear at London’s Royal College of Art. Prior to arriving at the Academy in Spring 2017, he taught footwear and accessory design at the Savannah College of Art and Design in Georgia.

Unlike SCAD and most other design schools, the Academy‘s San Francisco location places students within a burgeoning cosmopolitan city.

According to Le Cappelain, metropolitan areas are chock full of inspiration: “Students are exposed to more culture, more fashion, art, people, experiences, more things to look at and be informed by.”

And, of course, there’s the benefit of San Francisco’s market. With 11 bag brands

and manufacturers in San Francisco alone, there’s plenty of potential to build new relationships and opportunities with companies such as Chrome, Timbuk2, Everlane, Peak Design, Dsptch and Aer. This local industry component will help Academy students apply their comprehensive ‘head-to-toe’ fashion education. There’s also the fact that the School of Fashion is just one of 22 other creative disciplines within the Academy—this is another leg up, allowing for creative collaboration between disciplines. As it stands, select footwear and accessory classes were adopted from both the School of Industrial Design and the School of Jewelry & Metal Arts; there’s no shortage of collaboration opportunities and cross-departmental learning.

Since it was founded, the Academy’s School of Fashion has tallied a number of successes through fashion shows, awards, and scholarships, internships and the employment of their students. Fashion alumni have been hired by brands such as Gucci, Free People, Ralph Lauren, Adidas, Nike and Abercrombie & Fitch. If the past is any indication of its newest program’s future, students pursuing a career in footwear and accessories are in good hands. “This is a perfect combination of circumstances to design and grow a new kind of program,” Le Cappelain said. “I’m very excited at the prospect of building the best accessory design program in the U.S.”

Nina Tabios is a Publications Staff Reporter for Academy Art U News.

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA X SCHOOL OF FASHION

CFDA: A platform for emerging talent

Recognition from the Council of Fashion Designers of America provides School of Fashion students with opportunities, awards and industry connections

By Nina Tabios As leaders in the global fashion economy, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) is always looking to the future with “strengthen the impact of American fashion” as their mission. In recent years, the CFDA has consistently looked to the School of Fashion at Academy of Art University to find the next wave of creatives to uphold and, simultaneously, evolve the industry.

For the second year in a row, Academy fashion design graduates dominated the CFDA’s annual Fashion Future Graduate Showcase (FFGS). Of the 53 selected graduates from the talent pool of five schools (Savanah College of Art of Design, Pratt Institute, Fashion Institute of Technology, Parsons, and Academy of Art University), the Academy’s 12 fashion students represented both the textile and design programs.

The showcase, formally titled, “CFDA x NYCEDC 2018 Fashion Future Graduate Showcase,” is a hybrid physical and digital exhibition that was held this year at Industria Studios in New York City’s West Village neighborhood.

It’s premiere (July 9-10) fell during New York Fashion Week: Men’s and featured an accompanying group fashion show highlighting four standout collections, including

B.F.A. fashion design alumna Zhouyi Li showcased her womenswear collection at CFDA x NYCEDC 2018 Fashion Future Graduate Showcase this past July. Photo courtesy the CFDA. Academy fashion design alumna (B.F.A.) Zhouyi Li’s womenswear collection, featuring oversized silhouettes enhanced by geometric, 3-D shapes inspired by sculptor Richard Serra.

“The CFDA’s FFGS provides a much-needed platform for our graduates to interface

with industry leaders beyond the borders of California,” said School of Fashion Executive Director Simon Ungless. “Equally important is the opportunity to meet and network with their peers from other schools in a noncompetitive environment.”

CFDA Director of

Education + Professional Development (and former School of Fashion Associate Director from 2009 to 2012) Sara Kozlowkski shared that Academy students “always shine within CFDA Education initiatives,” thanks to their “perfect blend of creativity and

B.F.A. knitwear design student and 2018 Liz Claiborne Scholarship winner Cameron Orland (left) and B.F.A. fashion design student and 2018 Kenneth Cole Footwear Innovation Award winner Susan Zienty (right) at this year’s CFDA Awards.

Photos courtesy the CFDA.

technical knowledge.”

“When the CFDA had the opportunity to partner with the city of New York for Fashion Future Graduate Showcase, inviting the School of Fashion to participate was at the top of our list of priorities,” stated Kozlowski. “The combination of skill, vision and professional readiness is what our industry looks for in the next generation.”

The Academy’s School of Fashion enjoyed another success presented by the CFDA this year, two outstanding awards granted to fashion design students: the 2018 Kenneth Cole Footwear Innovation Award and the 2018 Liz Claiborne Design Scholarship Award.

This year, B.F.A. fashion design student Susan Zienty claimed the Kenneth Cole award; in the previous year, Erika Tompkins (also B.F.A. fashion design) won.

Coincidently, Zienty won the Liz Claiborne scholarship in 2017, while this year, B.F.A. knitwear design student Cameron Orland was the recipient.

The CFDA and the Academy’s relationship has a longstanding, mutually respected history. In more recent years, Academy alumna Ryan Roche was granted the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund initiative (2014). The following year, in 2015, the Academy acknowledged the CFDA with their own award for

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA X SCHOOL OF FASHION Outstanding Contribution to the Fashion Industry and Fashion Education. And in 2017, the Academy had seven graduate fashion design students featured in the CFDA+ Talent Book and another five students accepted into the CFDA+ Design Graduates program.

Instructors get involved too. School of Fashion Director Gary Miller and Graduate Director Jayne Foster traveled to New York City to join other fashion leaders at the CFDA’s Education Summit. Brands such as Levi’s and Alice + Olivia rubbed elbows with Miller and Foster, as well as educators from Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cornell University, London College of Fashion, LIM College and The Wharton School at the University of Pennsylvania, to discuss sustainability and technology within the industry.

Consistently being recognized by the CFDA in the form of awards, scholarships, fellowships and job opportunities, suggests the alignment of the Academy’s School of Fashion with an educational commitment to “excellence in design, artistic vision and innovative technology,” and the CFDA’s obligation to the industry at large. The CFDA’s consistent acknowledgement of the Academy’s emerging talent is not only a nod to the students, it is also a nod to the directors and instructors that keep the program running.

“I had similar opportunities when I graduated from St. Martins, through organizations such as Texprint (now TexSelect) and New Designers, which forged professional relationships that have deepened as I have navigated my career,” Ungless said. “It’s about exposure, network building and learning to optimize all opportunities that come one’s way.”

Nina Tabios is a Publications Staff Reporter for Academy Art U News.

Jessica (Ching Chi) Lai. Photo by Brendan Burdzinski.

Mario Chinchilla. Photo by Andres Altamirano.

Lusha Wang. Photo by Andres Altamirano.

Marisa Chentakul. Photo by Stephanie Soto.

Changsheng Yu. Photo by Andres Altamirano.

Zhihan Liu. Photo by Brendan Burdzinski.

Zhouyi Li. Photo by Andres Altamirano.

Jeannifer Tirtamarta. Photo by Brendan Burdzinski.

Church Iglesias and Denise Ramos. Photo by Andres Altamirano.

Hanh Nguyen and Emily McCarty. Photo by Andres Altamirano.

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION FASHION STYLING ALUMNI

Excellence in fashion styling

The School of Fashion’s styling alumni are making names for themselves

By Nina Tabios The School of Fashion at Academy of Art University defines fashion styling as “creating fashion imagery and outfits based on a concept.” As the only accredited B.F.A. fashion styling degree in the United States, Academy graduates develop to be industry-ready professionals with a keen sartorial eye, business acumen and versatility for a fast-changing market.

According to School of Fashion Associate Director

Flore Morton, who established the styling program in 2013, “There was no other university-level styling program to look at, and no books about fashion styling.

The foolproof methodology developed over the years to acquire the styling skills and succeed in the industry is very unique, and it works.”

“I based [the program] on my own journey and the feedback I received from industry professionals,” she said. “From there, I established a set of goals for the program to achieve.”

These goals include: developing an industry-standard portfolio that is supported by well-produced imagery; learning all aspects of production and art direction; working independently when booking models, photographers, and makeup artists; diversification in styling skills to handle the range from commercial to editorial; as well as, learning the basics of photography, hair styling, makeup artistry, fashion journalism and marketing.

“At the Academy, we

understand it takes a lot of courage for students to pursue their dreams, and also a lot of work,” Morton stated.

“It is our responsibility to do everything we can to provide excellence in education, resources, equipment and support along the way to help facilitate their dreams.

We are here when they succeed, and we are here when they fail. That’s what we do— support—relentlessly, and with passion.”

Recent fashion styling graduates have moved on to amazing opportunities

working side-by-side with some of the most influential designers and stylists in the global market. For those within the New York scene, the names of these Academy alumni, Abby Qi, Yen Nguyen, Katelyn Johnson and Umi Jiang, may soon be familiar.

Nina Tabios is a Publications Staff Reporter for Academy Art U News.

Yen Nguyen, 2018 B.F.A. fashion styling

Yen Nguyen. Photo by

Zane Gan.

Fresh out of the Academy, Yen Nguyen is just starting to make her mark in New York as an assistant to veteran stylist George Cortina. It was her Academy-made portfolio that helped make that initial impression with Cortina. Inspired by geometric shapes, textures, modern streetwear and the “trickle up movement

in fashion,” Nguyen’s sensibilities created opportunities to rub elbows with designers such as Gypsy Sport’s Ben Ellis and Academy alumnus and “Project Runway” finalist Brandon Kee. Her work has been published in Elegant, HUF, Lucy’s deFUZE and Kaltblut.

Styling by Abby Qi, A.A. fashion styling. “New Classics” for King Kong Magazine, Nov 2017.

Photography by Ricardo Rivera. Hair by Jazmin Kelly. Makeup by Raoul Alejandre. Model: Tricia Akello, Muse Agency.

Abby Qi, 2017 A.A. fashion styling Taking a cue from Grace Coddington, Abby Qi couldn’t wait to jump head first into the industry. Opting for the

A.A. degree, Qi said the Academy equipped her with the tools and life lessons to succeed in the industry, but it also fostered within her the idea of “taste can be crafted and learned.” That, plus maintaining a solid knowledge base and innate curiosity of the industry at large, she said, is merely the starting point of thriving within fashion. Though based in New York, Qi’s vision has already gone global through books, including Blanc Magazine and King Kong Magazine.

Abby Qi. Photo by Michael Lim.

Styling and art direction by Yen Nguyen, B.F.A. styling, for IMute Magazine, June 2018. Photography by Raj Bhardwaj. Hair and makeup by Marine Vaisset. Clothing by Ryan Yu and

Mehrzad Hemati, M.F.A. fashion design. Model: Alyssa Moore, Stars Management.

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new york fashion week special edition | page 17

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION FASHION STYLING ALUMNI Katelyn Johnson, 2015 B.F.A. fashion styling

Styling and art direction by Katelyn Johnson, B.F.A. fashion styling, and Aubrey Kia, A.A. fashion styling. Photography by Mark Elzey, B.F.A. photography.

Katelyn Johnson first got in touch with her creative expression as a ballet dancer. After experimenting in photography, Johnson now uses styling to present fashion in images and in life. As a full-time freelance stylist in New York City, Johnson has accumulated an impressive client list since heading eastward after completing her education. Having a relationship with global creative talent agencies, such as Streeters NY and the Wall Group, has linked Johnson with some of the best Manhattan stylists (such as Caroline Newell) and brands like Adidas

by Stella McCartney,

Rebecca Taylor, Apple, Bare Essentials and Parker NY. As lead stylist, her resume includes photo shoots with i-D Magazine, Paper Magazine, Vogue and more.

Katelyn Johnson.

Styling and art direction by Umi Jiang, B.F.A. fashion styling, for 180 Magazine, issue nine. Photography by Zeynep Enderoglu, B.F.A. photography. Model: Olivia at

Stars Model Management. Hair by Kurt Musrasik. Makeup by Jill Marie, Scout Creatives.

Umi Jiang, 2016 B.F.A. fashion styling Born in Hun Chun, the Jilin province of China, Umi Jiang originally arrived at the Academy to pursue a degree in fashion design. But her passion and

excitement for creating compelling visual stories pointed her in the direction of fashion styling. Her editorial, “Perfect/Imperfect,” as seen in the No. 9 issue of

180 Magazine, captures Jiang’s eye for flow and movement, an intense eye for detail that makes dynamic imagery. Since graduating, Jiang has worked for companies

BPCM and Acne Studios and has interned for Document Journal and Alastair McKimm, arguably New York’s stylist of the moment.

Umi Jiang.

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION INTERNATIONAL FASHION COMPETITIONS

Keep your (design) eye on the prize The perks of participating in fashion competitions

By Camila Encomendero The current climate in fashion is often ‘more is more’ in terms of collaborations, collections and social media.

Due to this new reality, international design competitions can play an important role in helping to establish a young brand by broadcasting the names of emerging talents, in addition to generating funding and building powerful connections. Winning, or even nearly winning, a recognized contest can bring a designer steps closer to their breakthrough.

Here are three benefits of entering fashion competitions:

1. Greater visibility New designers with limited resources seek growth and viability, which requires publicity of their work. Even though it can be intimidating, entering a competition can help develop the skills required to survive and prosper.

Eden Slezin (M.F.A. fashion design), who showed a collection during the Academy of Art University’s New York Fashion Week presentation last September, was one of 23 finalists in the Mittelmoda International Lab competition in Italy.

This competition offers a place where leading brand representatives and emerging talents can share ideas while being exposed to the international media.

Slezin’s submission for the Mittelmoda competition featured his collection from the Academy’s NYFW show, and was inspired by sustainability, vintage military denim, school boy uniforms and fetish wear. “It was an intentional attempt to blur the lines between youth and adulthood,” he said.

Although Slezin didn’t win the competition, he was proud to be the only American left in the final round.

M.F.A. fashion design alumnus Eden Slezin’s menswear collection on the runway at the International Lab of Mittelmoda in Treviso, Italy this past July. Photos by Benetton Luglio.

From participating in competitions associated with the Council of Fashion Designers of America to ArtsThread and Mittelmoda, Slezin indicated that the experiences have opened his eyes to organizations that help emerging designers. “It has given me a lot of confidence and inspiration to keep pushing my designs,” he said. “The more I push myself, the more recognition I’ve received.”

The takeaway? Once an emerging designer is selected as a finalist in well-known industry competitions, they are considered a promising talent and ‘one to watch.’

M.F.A. fashion design alumnus Eden Slezin showcased his menswear collection at the International Lab of Mittelmoda in Treviso, Italy this past July. Photo by Benetton Luglio. given the chance to delve into career environments and rub shoulders with industry giants, often getting feedback or even job offers from fashion experts. The format also facilitates opportunities to initiate conversations between brands and future talents.

Julie Eunju Kim (B.F.A. knitwear design) had the 2. International networking opportunity to showcase Competitions are instruher collection at Graduate mental in bringing together Fashion Week in London people from different, yet in June. Since its creation in related fields. Through work1991, GFW in London has shops with leading names, helped launch the careers of runway shows, and prize well-known names such as ceremonies, participants are Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, Stella McCartney and Coach’s Stuart Vevers.

Kim was selected to represent the Academy on this international stage with her senior collection from the university’s 2018 Graduate Fashion Show.

B.F.A. knitwear design alumna Julie Eunju Kim showcased her womenswear collection at Graduate Fashion Week in London this past June. Photo courtesy of the School of Fashion.

Inspired

by the abstract artist Paul Klee, Kim’s project touched upon the idea of the misconception, influenced by the artist’s unique play of colors and composition.

Being in London helped her learn about the fashion industry and provided a valuable networking experience for future opportunities. “London has always been a consideration for my future. Through this experience, I got the chance to meet professionals from the industry, students and college professors,” she said.

“I enjoyed hearing, learning and exploring about fashion from different perspectives with people from all around the world. It opened my eyes to new things and made me dig deeper into the things I thought I already knew.”

One of Kim’s greatest challenges was understanding a new culture, especially with a language barrier. “One of the most fascinating things is that we get to communicate through a non-verbal

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION INTERNATIONAL FASHION COMPETITIONS medium that is our art, and through this medium, we can recognize common elements with other artists.

The passion we share leads to the beginning of enthralling conversations,” she said.

Similarly, for Slezin, part of the process of participating as a finalist in Mittelmoda involved connecting with over 20-plus other designers and developing connections that may lead to opportunities in the future. “My experience has definitely been, the more you put yourself out there and meet new people, the better the result,” he said. “I am sure the friendships and connections I made there will be invaluable in my future career.”

3. Rising prestige In a competitive and unpredictable environment, where talent is abundant and technology runs faster than any marathoner, a good eye is required and adaptation is fundamental. Even though the responsibility during a design competition lies on the designer alone, participation often includes media coverage and lends itself to

becoming part of an exclusive circle, thereby increasing the prestige of the designer.

“I’ve been a part of, or a finalist in, at least four [competitions] during the last few years; the experiences have exposed me to so many things and gave me so much more confidence as a designer,” Slezin said.

The benefits are personal and professional. Through participation, the artist establishes a strong industry presence, shows perseverance, and a willingness to compromise and collaborate.

While design competitions do offer a chance for emerging designers to showcase their skills, the ‘final prize’ isn’t limited to just winning the competition; the experience provides an opportunity to gain visibility, build an international network, and earn credibility in the eyes of the industry.

Camila Encomendero is a B.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.

B.F.A. knitwear design alumna Julie Eunju Kim’s womenswear collection on the runway at Graduate Fashion Week in London this past June. Photos courtesy of the School of Fashion.

FASHION MERCHANDISING X SPRING SHOW 2018

Spring Show 2018: Bringing it big

By Nina Tabios “Might as well go for drama, right?” said Nicole Ross, of the multi-level structure representing the School of Fashion at the Academy of Art University’s 2018 Spring Show exhibition, which features the best of student work across all schools.

Easily the biggest and boldest display in the building, the scaffolding framework supported student generated work from the Academy’s largest department, the School of Fashion: mannequins wearing garments from both the annual San Francisco Graduation Fashion Show (B.F.A.) and the New York Fashion Week Show (M.F.A.); computers displaying digital versions of student portfolios; Plexiglas boxes displaying printed editorials, magazines and marketing campaigns; textile design samples; and a pop-up of the merchandising

Photo by Bob Toy.

program’s own concept store, SHOP657.

Situated just inside the entrance of 2225 Jerrold, the dramatic multi-level structure was a sight to behold.

Every facet of the department was covered: fashion design, textile design, knitwear, fashion journalism, styling, merchandising, marketing and more was presented for a cohesive and The School of Fashion display at Spring Show 2018, conceptualized by visual merchandising students, equal showing. highlighted every facet of the department. Photo courtesy of the School of Fashion.

Ross, a visual merchandising Show display. They shared unbeknownst to us at the the annual Graduation graduate, teamed up with that representation of all the time of planning, scaffoldFashion Show where the fellow students Chih Han School of Fashion programs ing was also being planned students can really strut their Chen and Jazmine Louis to was a big emphasis, even in for the Graduation Fashion stuff; however, Ross, Chen conceptualize the Spring their initial ideas.

Show to create an elevated and Louis made it a point to “Scaffolding works really runway. It really was a hapbring the visual merchandiswell for budgeting purposes py accident.” ing department to the front, … We [also] knew that we Fashion Merchandising figuratively and literally. could hand it off to someOnline Assistant Director “We’re a large department, body else to help us build it, Russell Clower chimed we’ve never really had the so that we could push our in, “When I brought in the opportunity to do something focus to other details,” Ross concept to the School of of this scale and magnitude said. “We both wanted a Fashion’s Executive Director, before,” Ross said. “We’re an strong base, and also a conSimon [Ungless], to discuss art school, so we might as versation piece about ‘what updates, he literally said, well bring it big.” fashion is’ in the develop‘You’re kidding me right?’ ment of that.”

Sometimes that wavelength Nina Tabios is a Publications Ross further commentjust works out.”

Staff Reporter for Academy ed, “There’s some irony For the School of Art U News. embedded in this decision­ Fashion, it is usually during

page 20 | new york fashion week special edition | academy of art university | san francisco

STYLEYORK FASHION WEEK SPECIAL EDITION NEW COSTUME DESIGN

Who’s your hero?

Costume design students create superhero looks inspired by Pixar’s “Incredibles 2”

By Amy Burke

design students to create their own superhero, based upon each student’s interpretation of what they deemed “heroic,” a process that also included researching and developing costume mockups. Nine of

proud of these gals,” Kalal said about the students.

A favorite character in “They’re so amazing.” animated superhero movWith a goal of learning ie “The Incredibles” is Edna about designing and tailoring Mode, an imperious designcostumes for animated charer who dresses the cast of acters, the students brought superheroes in a variety of the same way sketches, renthat a fashion derings and house would 3-D samples dress a celebthat showed rity. Inspired the design by costume process of extraordinaire their superEdith Head, hero. KTVU’s Ms. Mode has Claudine to consider Wong conmany factors: ducted a live traction, flexbroadcast of ibility, prothe presentatection from tion, includoutside danger ing an interand—her view with most importKalal and a ant rule—no brief review of capes! the students’ With suwork. perhero movies The ideas like “The behind the Incredibles” superheroes making waves ranged from in pop culsupernatural ture, it’s fun abilities such to imagine as empathic what kind of mimicry Costume design student Lionella Shelby poses in her superhero we (meaning would want to superhero costume, Sift, with student Jessica Schamus the ability be. Last month, who holds up her Prysm costume for display. Photo by to duplicate Brooke Jennings. a group of the abilities Academy of Art University the participating students of other humans), environstudents cultivated their were selected to attend the mental concern and just ‘inner-Edna Modes’ by movie’s opening and to visit plain cuteness. imagining a new superhePixar’s Emeryville studios Yunqi Xie designed Static ro to coincide with Pixar for a costume design preGirl, who can “disturb signal Animation Studio’s release of sentation led by the movie’s receptions or use static elec“The Incredibles 2,” the sequel character tailoring lead, Fran tricity to destroy machines,” that opened June 15.

Kalal, who has worked on in addition to numbing and A month prior to the films including “Up,” “Brave” freezing people by touching movie’s opening, Pixar asked and “Coco.” them. “First, I imagined the Academy’s costume “I am so inspired and what power I’d want to have

Pixar Costume Tailoring Lead Fran Kalal reviews Yunqi Xie’s Static Girl costume. Photo by Elena Eberhard.

in “The Incredibles,” then I researched the science behind static electricity, looking for the fabric and materials for this power. Finally, I analyzed who my hero would be and created a background,” Xie said. The process was long and full of revisions.

Jessica Schmaus, who invented the character Prysm, a superhero with the ability to manipulate and shape light, walked away from the event feeling empowered by the process. She expressed her delight in seeing where films from her childhood had been made, and was encouraged by the role that costumes play within animation. “I didn’t realize how many different types of art mediums are used before the designs even begin getting animated,” Schmaus said.

“They experiment so much with characters’ expressions, costumes and body movements, drawing them in different situations, that aren’t even seen in the film, just to get more of Costume design students posing with “Incredibles 2” superheroes at Pixar Studios. Photo by Elena Eberhard. a feel for their

personalities.”

She learned that the costumes can move and change with the characters’ different moods, acting like an extension of the character rather than just the garment they are wearing. “Seeing how much the technology has improved over the years was really cool,” she added.

“The movement and textures of materials have become so much more realistic.”

Phoebe Taylor designed Skeptor, whose powers involve manipulating and melting into the shadows. Taylor was inspired by Batgirl and the “go-go dancer” look of old Marvel Girl outfits. After attending the Pixar presentation, Taylor felt re-energized with her future in costume animation.

“The trip to Pixar was marvelous, and seeing all the art that goes into making these movies was truly incredible. They really showed us all the effort these movies require—all the physical, digital, drawing, painting and even sculptural 3-D art that goes into it.”

“Designing costumes for Pixar and other animation studios has always been a dream, and after this trip, it just seems that much more tangible,” Taylor said.

Amy Burke is an M.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.